do not buy blower editions graphics card from any brand
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
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#gaming #games #gameplay #gpu #repair #nvidia #amd #fix #fixed #
I would recommend the owner of that card to undervolt and underclock it for longevity.
Yes, undervolting is a must with these blower cards, imho.
I would recommend that he/she slaps a waterblock on it if they really want to get long life out of it. If it's a reference design (which most blower style cards are), then it shouldn't be an issue.
@@benjaminsmekens2344 i wouldn't buy a waterblock for a card that could die again at any moment
I'm still using a blower style rx 470 since 2018, and undervolting makes the gpu drops from 80 degrees to low 70.
@@viniciuslisboa8864 My first thought was undervolting. Nice to see that your card is working after 5 years.
I had a Geforce 6600gt. It had a small heatsink that you would see on a 486 and the card got hot all the time. It would hit around 100C and shut down. I tried cooling it by opening the case and putting the pc in front of a window A/C. This created condensation and still wasn't enough to keep the card cool. I ended up buying a Zalman aftermarket cooler and installed it on the card. The temps went front 100c to around 45c full load so I guess that was a success.
Bro i had a 6600 GT in like... was it 2005? Paired with an AMD Athlon 3000+ It was the first PC i built and had the exact same passive cooler you are talking about, it was a Gigabyte card. I played Doom 3 and Far Cry with that thing LOOL the memories
zalman weird ass coolers helped a lot of gamers in the mid 00s haha
Awesome results mate
I had a 9600GT and found that ran hot too when overclocked
@@spicesmuggler2452 I was still rocking an ATi 9800 Pro around then lol
Good stuff.. Just a tip you can get these to show which module is bad if it passes mats by looping mods test 94.. I always loop the same test with a 1000mhz oc on mem after a module replacement to sniff out any potentially close to failing modules.. Also you can slowly raise the oc starting at around 500mhz to find modules that aren't healthy as they will start failing.. In my experience a healthy module should at least do 1ghz oc without errors.. Hope it helps you out it took me 3 months of trying different things to come up with a decent strategy.. Anyways love the videos keep up the good work..
Thats a good tip but i dont think its best to replace all then to replace one.
I always offer customer an option with a warning. They make this decision, not me.
If it was up to me, i would replace it all.
@@northwestrepairI agree in my experience they'll usually last a month or so before another acts up but yeah it's absolutely best to swap all of them is it has the 2018's.. If the customer can't afford to replace them then I will use the method in my last comment..
@@BanksRacing11 my man 🤝
@@northwestrepairwhat is that monolithic fin stack called you used to cool it with tony?
@@northwestrepair If you were to replace all of them, how much would it cost?
”it's dark, it's dry around the edges"
Asphalt
Greetings from Australia watching your video on the way to work on the train. I have owned several blower style cards from a 780to to a 1080ti and my last was my Gigabyte RTX3080....temps were high so I zip tied a Noctua 80mm fan directly on top of the fan of the blower card pushing more air through the card. I achieved an 8 degree celsius temperature drop going from high to low 80s on the memory hot spot ...so a win in my book.
Keep up the great work.
Thank you for the heads-up on HP "Fake Copper".... who knew? Well, you did. Now we do too. Thanks again!
Blower cards are great long term value as long as:
a) case is adequately ventilated
b) case and GPU are cleaned somewhat regularly
c) GPU is not overclocked
Greatest value comes from GPU being strictly within 1 or 2 slots, which means they are guarantee to fit anywhere, and they are very valued on second-hand market as something you can throw anywhere, most importantly into home-server for transcoding or remote gaming
It is ALWAYS bad. 1 fan = no redundancy. The heat sink is always anemic. The only good thing is it blows the hot air outside the case. But if the case is well ventilated, it is useless. And the new gen nvidia OEM card have the fins pointing toward the back of the case, meaning a standard cooler is pushing hot air outside the case too.
@@PyromancerRiftDual card configs remain a necessity for high-end compute workloads, professional super high resolution footage editing (10k+ can easily lead to vRAM paging, which kills render time and timeline responsiveness), high-resolution Blender rendering and ray tracing, and even certain CGI workloads, not to mention the whale in the room that is large AI compute. Cutting edge LLMs push 130 billion parameters and beyond, video generation is brutal just in general, high-res art generation is still done in batches of 20+ images to get a "good" result or 2, all of these easily occupy more vRAM than even a 4090 ships with, which means you need 2 GPUs in an NVLink configuration (16+16=32, 32>24). These kinds of workstations are also usually trying to cram NVMe drives, U.2 caddies, capture cards, audio hardware, and more into the same PCIe area and we'll be potentially adding NPUs and DPUs to that mess in the near future, so dedicating all 8 slots to just fitting a pair of 4090s inside the PC case isn't happening.
@@PyromancerRift whatever, some heatsink on blower design are really really good.
they're also good for datacentre uses so they can be stacked, and many cooling issues are not impacted because of the huge airflow in these sorts of machines.
I have an EVGA 980 Ti Hybrid and after several years the pump started becoming really noisy so I decided to replace the entire cooler with an aftermarket cooler, the Accelero Xtreme III for around $60. It's an awesome cooler and was well worth it. Temps and noise were actually lower than the hybrid cooler.
Trivia: HP usually makes the "OEM" cards that you see in prebuilt PC's, like this one(which ironically uses the same shroud as the hybrid design of the MSI Sea hawk cards)
HP does not have engineering or manufacturing capability for these, it's commissioned by them from one of the actual graphics card companies but doesn't match the cards those would dare sell to retail under their own brand, trimmed for cost. This card comes out of HP PC of course. HP also doesn't make PC mainboards (usually Foxconn) and it doesn't make laptops either (that's usually Wistron, Compal etc)
@@SianaGearz my last TRUE pc from HP were a desktop (VECTRA) and a laptop (no remember which series it was). They're still good(ish), but those new pc are not true HP anymore.
Thank for letting up know. As these cards get cheaper the get more and more tempting, but these warnings keep us well informed.
As someone who has/had a 2080ti.MSI blower card... Do NOT buy these cards. They are so insanely loud and constantly hit peak temps around 85° C unless you throttle them and at that point, what's the point of having a card capable of pushing Ultra settings? Buy the better cooled cards. Just bought a 4070ti gaming Trio version and I almost forget my PC is on now lol. Used to be I'd put headphones on just so I didn't have to hear the GPU and case fans desperately trying to keep the GPU below 85°C 🤣🤣
5:48 Maybe it's overheating because I never saw the fan speed % go over 57% in GPU-Z. Maybe you can try to manually set the fan speed to be higher and it'll go down in temperature.
Years ago had an ASUS GTX 1080ti Turbo. Changed the shroud a little bit and temperatures dropped almost 10 Celsius (from around 80 to around 70). Removed the DVI connector and made room for the air to go out. Opened a little hole on front-top of the card to let the air go out easier (not towards the motherboard, of course). It wasn't easy but I got some good results. Some blower cooling systems have the turbine with thick blades and they perform well if the flow of the air is rectified properly. Those with thin and medium blades are really bad and they usually are noisier. On top of this sometimes there's barely any room for the air to go out of the computer case because of too many video connectors blocking the path.
I think what we'd all like to know is: what graphics card do you use on your personal PC at home?
Awesome video as always mate!
Love these videos. Have you done any where you explain each step of the process, especially around removing and resoldering components, what the different fluids and tools are etc., for someone who has no idea what you're doing?
This is exactly what I was thinking about
I did have an awful cooler on a really old gigabyte card (I think it was back in the fx 5800 series, so almost two decades ago). The fix was to grab some wire, get some isolation tape on it and hook up one extra 80mm fan to blow over the fin stack.
I don't see why something similar can't be done in this case. As long as you can get the air moving over the fin stack, and heat pipes are contacting the core and the sink, it's a question of volume of air going through the fins. Pop off the shroud and install a couple of fans on top. You can probably use a splitter to power the fans from the card directly, or you can just put them on a separate controller powered directly from the PSU. If hanging the fan on wires is not acceptable, you can probably drill some holes in the fin stack to attach the fan directly to the fins.
The shroud will obviously need to go, so the pusher fan will be less effective, but it's hard to see how replacing it with a couple of extra fans won't make for much better air flow through the fins. The only important part is to make sure you don't accidentally drill into the heat pipes. Brute force is generally a good solution as long as you apply sufficient amount of it :D
Better to clean the card, apply new thermal paste/check thermal pads sat...and then UNDERVOLT!
Man it must suck being an owner of one of these cards with the micron memory, all that money and they have high failure rates and no company will step up and fix them when the problem is so well documented.
First of all, when the problem is known, you ask someone to see if your card has that kind of memory chips BEFORE they got broken. If your card has this type of memory chips you ask someone to modify the cooling system to properly cool everything that needs cooling in your video card. This way you'll probably have no issue and you'll be able to use your video card for many years.
2080ti was a nightmare. i did rma 4 times and get the 2080super once hit market. remember the space invaders? but still a good cards. blower stile was never a solution but did work for years on certain applications.
2080ti was faster but the super was the superior card! The supers gave that generation a lease on life that meant it could compete well against the 30 series all the way upto the 3070
Hey, great to finally see 3Dmark for testing! If the card can finish it, then it's definitely good (for now).
For now 😂
@@northwestrepair I mean, recurring customers are the best customers, right?
But in all seriousness, 3Dmark is a must. I had cards passing MATS memory test, Furmark and all Unigine benchmarks but crashed only in 3Dmark and certain games. Probably something to do with DX12.
Their stress tests are particularly useful - I had an overclock I had to remove because it kept crashing with Port Royal stress test , annoyingly after 15/20 of the runs
I replaced the blower on my Titan X Pascal with a NZXT cpu cooler mount and H110i for the core, and copper heatsinks for the memory and other hot components. It runs so much better now.
It used to reach tjmax within 5 minutes or less and thermal trottle down to 1600mhz, now I have it OC at 2050 and it stays there, under full load for hours, it stays at a chilly 40C now
And yes. HP i have read many forums of people complaining about the quality of the parts put into their OMEN systems. TBH I'd salvage the card, and do this repair you did, then salvage the CPU, SSD, and possibly RAM and build around that. Getting a good name brand board, cooler, PSU, case, etc watercooling (Corsair is my pick H100i or similar). I'm sure with this setup I'd get alot more life out of it than using HP's cheap undercooled parts.
I keep getting signal lost on my HP omen 30 L. After a series of driver updates, AMD had an update for the CPU, and I think Windows had a slew of updates, some of which did not install properly. I had to do a lot of hoop jumping to finally get the card to behave again because it was sporadically crash any time card was stressed. Lights, fans, everything else is lit up inside the case still going and I could even hear sound from whatever I have been playing. It wasn’t overheating but I think mine was a corrupted file issue in relation to the above mentioned updates. I kept updating a bunch of stuff until it started behaving itself again, but I’m still not sure I’m out of the woods. Just keeping an eye on it for now, but Prior to this the PC was running fine and I have never had a problem with it at all. My biggest problem with HP is they want to charge $300 for you to ship the computer to them no matter what’s wrong with it. I have not had the system three years yet but I’m out of warranty. And when you get it back, the problem may or may not be fixed according to what I’ve read on some of the forums. Seems like many others are having similar issues. I’ll never buy from HP again.
I have heard of users swapping out the blower style cooler for an aftermarket one being a water block for water cooling the card or a normal one that has fans on it and it worked out very well.
HP only cares is it lasts through the warannty. They probably cross their fingers and hope it dies the day after.
0:49 that's real copper, but the nickel plating is mostly gone for some reason (it's possible someone even tried to lap it).
Also not the original pads. Someone was in there to repair/repaste before, and made a mess. Regardless, those blower cards are terrible thermally anyway.
Looks like the card was assembled to the cooler and the pads where hanging down.
Nothing terrible at all. I prefer blower-style for my GPUs (doing 3D-renderings with 100% load)
@@SuperSuperka thermally speaking, 3D renderings generally cause far less heat compared to gaming loads which are far more transient in nature (and constantly loading the VRAM), so blower cards are far less of a problem in those circumstances. Also allows for cramming more cards into the case with blowers, assuming you can take advantage of multiple GPUs for your rendering.
There are circumstances where blowers work fine, but for the majority of consumers, blowers are going to be poor thermal performers by comparison. You _can_ make a blower perform similarly, but not at noise levels anyone would want to have sitting next to them.
@@bjn714 You are wrong. far more, not less. I never had issues with temps/noise in games, but doing tweaks in Afterburner for rendering (for 3080Turbo).
Arctic makes a massive 3 fan air cooler for 10 and 20 series cards. I had the Accellero Xtreme 3 on my RTX 2080. It was a blower style EVGA card. Temps went from 85-95C to 65-70C with the upgraded cooler.
used accelero 4 with Titan x (maxwell) for a while, with it temps dropped from 85-90c to 60-65c , i really hope arctic will start making them again/
sadly the costs are not justified
@@GewelReal if you are poor they might not be. Keeps the card cool for a much longer life. Definitely a good investment for me.
@@gionieves2646 I think he mean Arctic
Do you know if there's a similar thing for a blower style 3080? Getting very tired with 82° temps and noise
Love your channel, gathering the cards I have and going to start playing with them. Great instructions.
Blower style fans are so dope if you have a vertical gpu set up literally just shoots heat up
I wonder if the card can be improved by lower thermal impedance to heatsink. A copper shim for memory to bridge some thickness and fill out the rest of the thickness with thinner pads. Thick pads even higher quality ones have that much more thermal impedance. But i understand depending on warping it has its own risks as well. And long into its life, the memory is so pre-damaged that it may be futile.
There are videos were ppl removed/cut the back plate to improve air exhaust. Reducing temp by 5c.
That's insanely hot, even with that vapor chamber cooler. Thanks for making this video.
Thats interesting regarding the turbine cooler as you call it, performing so poorly. I have 2 asus rtx3070 turbos that run very cool, cooler than my other cards - i belive as they use a heat chamber heatsink that sinks the memory and gpu, not just a plate. The downside is they are dam noisey, it sound like a jet taking off in your pc! But hey, they do run cool...
You're talking out your as s blower cards are garbage and always will be.
I used to replace turbine cooler for my GPU in the past, it took extra slot but thermals and noise greatly improved. Nevertheless, GPU became obsolete not even 2 years later :D
Do these bad Micron chips survive much longer if they where watercooled for its entire lifetime or is it worse ?
Edit: after 7 months and many upvotes and no answers i guess the answer is no.
You had an 8 bit error on D0, in my experience this is a cold solder/ BGA error, not a dead memory chip, even when the thermal pad is missing. Probably the chip is still good, had a lot of top right corner memory errors on reference 2080ti PCBs. But yeah, 8 date code Micron is really that bad, probably wort replacing all, but usually they go with replacing one and in worst case quickly selling the card :(
I undervolt all my cards. Everthing running so far… 970rtx (MSI), 1070rtx (MSI), 2070rtx (gainward), 3070gtx (Asus). … still have some ATI/AMD 7970GHZ, x850XT… Voodoo2,3,5. The only card that failed on me was a 9800Pro with little use (have to figure why) and a Voodoo3 with memory problems. Always good cooling and no overclock. i always pick the cards that run cooler, not faster. Love your channel, learning a lot. Cheers from Brazil
Good Job fixing it!!
I kinda noticed something bout certain cards...
Run 2080ti/1080ti under high load a bit and look it with thermal camera. Explains better then I can with words (sorry not native English speaker).
Solution is eliminate hotspots near certain memory modules.
Extra thermal pads under backplate (card hotspots) and but some memory radiators on right place on backplate (or fan to deal with hotspot temp).
Other way is msi afterburner etc, just but fans on high speed for gaming/graphic intensive work.
Been using msi 2080ti for 2 years or so.
Old miner that has seen some load. Got for bargain after it failed.
Same error43 and same memory chip as on card in video :)
Faulty chip changed, themral grizzly pads and paste, hotspot 60-65c max full load :)
Like a skilled surgeon you prevent miscues by clearly marking the chip requiring action. This is clearly the sign of a professional. I always enjoy watching you work miracles and learn from your vast expertise. Thank you Tony!
If there was an endless stream of these videos with smooth jazz playing in the background it could be a good replacement for my weather channel addiction from the '90s
2:47 Heatsink: Tata, goodbye, have a great time. 😂
Nice cache
The first thing I would do with a blower card is pitch the blower. I would get a three fan cooling heatsink that was somewhat close to fitting. The guy in Manila Philippines put back on a super thick pad on the mosfets and drivers And I believe I would take that off and put one of those thin aluminum heatsinks with fins on the back. He speaks Philippine but speaks enough and puts in enough English that I know what he is up to. Instead of putting badly water damaged cards straight into a sonic cleaner he uses a scalpel and carefully removes the corrosion. He seems pretty efficient in getting cards to work and does memory chip removal cleaning one half with copper braid and instead of reballing the other half he just leaves the small mounds of solder from before. He never fails on getting the cards running when he pulls the memory but Krisfix in Germany sure does a better job reballingl
I always look at the cooling solution before buying and then typically I end up putting on after market cooling. I do that despite GPU manufacturer claims about what thermal limits are safe. I don't believe them and I want a lot of overhead cooling room.
It looks like a reference design by default.
A Waterblock would probably save the card, but a entire watercooling system would cost way more then what the card is currently worth.
So your back in the old shoes you started from.
Water cooling can be very risky.
Too many people kill their GPU just by changing thermal pads. Imagine they kill them installing water blocks too 😮
@@northwestrepair lol even more reason to recommend it. If we break, you can fix it! 🤣
Absolutely love watching your videos. If i ever break a card I want repaired, you are the first person I think of, as i have learned from your videos and Northridge, to NEVER do it yourself if your an armature without proper tools.
The first "Blower" GPU that I owned was a BFG GTS250. Sad BFG doesn't make GPU cards anymore. It was hella of a GPU for what it was and kept my room warm through the winter. Never had any trouble with it. I thought it was great since it pushed all the heat outside of the case. My next "Blower" type GPU was a GTX1060 and again never had any trouble with that either. Heard the 20XX series had a fan mount problem in shipping where it was easily broken
BFG doesnt exist anymore either for that matter...
I had two of those BFG cards too. Sadly, a shorted MSI motherboard took them out. Right after they closed up and MSI refused to warranty the board or the damaged video cards. I still do have them in a box. They're too pretty to throw away...
Darker paste makes me think of AS5, but I didn't think they sold that paste anymore and that seemed to clean up a lot easier than AS5 ever cleaned up for me.
you are impossible. you are blessed . Excelent job dude
Prebuilt manufacturers loves blower cards, as they work well (well being subjective) when installed in a hot and stuffy computer case. Other coolers requires a case that actually has ventilation and has two intake fans on the front, which is $10 too expensive for HP and Dell. It's also cheaper because of only a single fan used, instead of 2 or 3 fans.
The more frequent uploads are working my friend! Keep them coming and soon you will have 40,000 subscribers i can see it already ;)
For GeForce and Radeon RX/WX cards that are sold in Blower form, one's best bets would be to opt for Arctic and Raijintek's heavily interchangeable GPU Coolers and Heatsinks that can make use of CPU Fans in order to substantially bring down the 1080 Ti/2080 Ti TURBO and Vega cards; these would require the Accelero Xtreme IV or Morpheus 8057, though it must be noted that Arctic has put the Accelero Xtreme IV into End of Life status (officially it only supports up to the 2080 Ti) and there hasn't been a successor thus yet to support Navi, Ampere, Lovelace, and onward, these are effective options nonetheless and probably will serve far better than Hewlett~Packard, Dell, and Lenovo's coolers any day of the year.
The RTX 3090 and 3090 Ti (as well as potentially the Lovelace Era up to the 4090, due to having incredibly similar layouts) are officially supported on the Morpheus 8069, and while it will turn virtually any card into a 03.50 to Quad Slot if the CPU Fans used on it are too big in Depth, keeping the cards Undervolted will potentially be a saving grace to further improve its impact, especially for those who will use it in AI workloads that truly push the card to its limits thermally on other coolers; while I cannot vouch for the Quadro cards, which also run on a Blower, it would be nice to see if somebody could look into Arctic and Raijintek's products to determine if it is worth using over the Metal Blower that has been present, the L6000 (RTX 6000: Ada Generation) is a major card of discussion on the subject due to its noticeably low coverage at the moment (kind of expected for a 6800$ USD product though) and wishfully there will be some noticeable results that may help us consider if something such as the Morpheus 8069 makes enough of a difference to purchase it alongside what is already a hefty investment to improve its longterm usage.
I feel like the title is a misrepresentation of blower cards, not that this card wasn't beat up in the first place.
As I have went from a refurbished EVGA 2080 T.I FTW3 to two of these used Dell blower RTX 2080 T.I's cards in S.L.I. The blower cards I have both have different memory on each of them. I'm not having any issues with either Hynix or micron memory on each.
I had an rtx 2070 with the exactly the same heatsink but made by MSI aero and i manage to buy a different heatsink at alliexpress. The duke msi model that fits exactly with this model and it works like a charm. Not noisy at all and it kept the temp down unlike the blower which i hate a lot
Yes that works brilliant. Had a few HD7970 back in the days, all was OEM/radial cards which overheated and earraped almost the whole time. I put Accelero Extremes and Alpenföhn Peter on it, or used other coolers that fitted from really defect cards+Zombiemodded them with 2 120mm fans and Temps+Loudness reduced significantly + the cards never showed any signs of memory errors especially under heavy Load anytime again.
So yes: Before you buy a complete new graphics card and can get your hands on a 2080ti cheap or for a reason you should definitely consider aftermarket coolers or even "modding" them if the design lets you do this and it fits your case, because most of them aftermarket coolers or strapped on fans are then way bigger/thicker than before.
For example: Almost every 30-series card i came across could be very easily freed from the plastics and "design matters most" fans. Strip 2*120mm on it, throw it back in and "Boom", at least 20°C, if not even more in lower temperature and therefore even the Boostclocks got higher or the OC was way more effective for a 15€ mod.
As long as you don't need that Design in a Showcase-Computer break the plastics apart, remove the fans and strap on some good 120mms. Card, ears and performance will get better ;)
i.imgur.com/gzdtqaz.jpeg
The only way to put multiple cards inside workstations are with blower fans. A different heatsink that deviates from the typical 267x112mm will simply not fit .
I undervolted mine 1000mv to the highest stable clocks my Zotac 2080 super handles +700 on the memory core and 1000mv @ 1995 MHz core, clocks down to 1950-1965 @ 1000mv in games. fans set to auto hovers around 60c I also set the curve to 900mv @ 1935 MHz that's in an old top mount PSU Cooler Master case with 2 120mm front fans one 120mm exhaust and a 120mm CPU air cooler
blower theoretically should be better as cooler because its directional, you can easily take advantage of that to design a better heatsink for that directed air flow, the problem is where at air is going, to the io shield where the output port is blocking the already small window for air to come out, whereas for direct fan design, the fans just blow the air everywhere where there is already a good amount of airflow which is the whole pc case
My PC contains two blower-style GPUs: 1) Asus 2060 Super Turbo and 2) Gigabyte 3080 turbo.
1) never had any issue with it. 2) - had to replace thermal pads, also need to make some tweaks in Afterburner for rendering 3D. Both cards are heavelly used for rendeing in V-ray GPU and were used in mining previously.
My experience tells that blower-style is preferable cooling for GPU. YOu can put up to 4 GPUs in PC and the PC will stay cool inside. My friend has 2x3090 Turbo (from Gigabyte) - I wish I had bought the same in the past.
the whole point of high temp design its to burn out your card so you buy a new one, most manufacturers do this. I still have my 1070 when was released, so from my check i got the micron memory too, but still works never had any problems, temps are under 70C, got a gigabyte gaming one
I have a 2070 Super that I have tested in a few different cases. An R5, Core 1000, and a Gamemax Aero. The thermals while in the restricted Core 1000 are the absolute best, and better than my 3060 and 1660 Super in the same case running the same games.
I think it depends on the case and amount of airflow. The Gamemax Aero with high air flow rates had the worst thermals.
Most of the blower issues are probably related to the case design. I see these more in Dell systems with one intake and one exhaust, and those cards are completely fine.
Run them in high airflow cases and for some reason they run super hot, which can contribute to excessive thermal wear and shortened lifespan.
I like blower cards… in the right cases.
I once had an asus turbo rtx 2080, of course it was very hot in standard operation. With an adjusted fan curve and a headset you get the temperatures under control
I replaced a stock blower style cooler on a RX470 with an MSI GTX1660 super cooling solution. (had to cut away a piece to be able to connect the pci-e powercable)
After that my card was running about 10-15 degrees celsius colder and with much less noise.
Should figure out something about thous microns stuff full recall should have done years ago when it was released.
Awesome video
I had a Dell Radeon R7 250 that had a fan failure. On a whim, I put a dual-slot cooler on from a HIS card of some sort.
Not only did it run much cooler, I could overclock it as far as Afterburner and Radeon software would let me - RAM and GPU - and it stayed quiet.
Liked, subscribed and here’s the comment 😂 hopefully see more your stuff 🎉
Very interesting video! Thank you!
Hm, I've had a 780 Ti Founders Edition and 1080 Founders Edition. All blower coolers. They have been running fine for years and not much noise.
Is memory frequency ever an issue for you when you replace the chips?
I watch you and northbridgefix to learn from your experience some things to complete my interessting in compute hardware. All in one people like you are true hereos for me, becouse i do not would produce more electronic waste than i did in my live with computers in 20 years. Salve
I had replaced the heatsinks of my Radeon HD 5770 and Radeon HD 7970 with Accelero coolers from Arctic. Those where pretty decent in all areas.
Huh. I actually liked blowers back in the day. But then I didn't have experience with newer cards because all my old cards lasted this long. Still, I trust Tony's observation. Not all cards are created equal.
UV and UC, then remove the plastic cover and add two fans on the same heatsink.
Well I had a Gainward GTX 260 Golden Sample Goes Like Hell Edition and that one was loud and quite hot (about 84 degrees with the stock cooler).
Replaced with an Accelero Extreme Pro GTX, which did make it go from 2 slot to 3 slot and 2 fans to three while making it from a 26 cm card into a 30 cm card....but it made the Card whisper quiet while dropping temps from 84 to 64 degrees.
So with good case fans (120s silent ones with LEDs) and this cooler I had a GTX 275 Equivalent GTX 260 that was whisper quiet and held up for a long time.
Not the first one I did, the first one was the first GPU I bought, the Galaxy Geforce 6800GT (PCIE), the AGP Version had a special version using a custom coloured Arctic NV5 Silencer, which wasn't available on the PCIE version.
I talked with their german distributor and they'd agreed to send me the Cooler with the Graphics Card and even let me keep warranty.
Card was great and quiet....I had it until I replaced it with a 8800GTS 384 that I got from a friend for cheap, just at the time the 8800GT 512 came out. (Was a very poor apprentice back then.)
Was a great card and the original 6800GT/GU was a GT on Ultra niveau limited to 500 Worldwide.
Well I guess I had something even rarer back then, although I never realized and sold it back then, and even the PCIE version was OC'ed to that level even though the cooler was the standard nvidia one. So I had one Geforce 6800 GU PCIE.....of which I don't think too many existed, given how surprised they were at my question.
What you and your skill set do is black magic and I've never witnessed such amazing voodoo in my life. Yeah, subbed.
i have a 3080 from Asus, removed The Blower and after Watercooling with a modified vapor chamber, i now use a Raijintek Morpheus 8069, Temps around 70c hotspot 85c mem 80c with undervolting 850/1850, works fine without coil whine, best regards to you and your skills 😎
Love my EVGA 2080Ti.
i love my EVGA 1080Ti 🙂
I’m still rocking my EVGA 1060
I have loved EVGA GTX670, GTX770, GTX980, GTX1080, RTX2080, and RTX3080 - sadly the love affair will stop here. I still have the 770 running 24/7 in a server, the 1080 is in a media pc and the 3080 is my daily driver
@@tomr3422 The 1080 is a heck of a card for a media pc. I was running a 1030 in mine, until I upgraded to an RX 6400. I wanted an RTX A2000, but it has no HDMI, and some streaming services insist on an encrypted HDMI connection.
@@ScottGrammer its just what I had laying around not in use, I was using a 2080 but I gave it to a friend when the "GPU shortage" started
. . . With heat pipes, we make sure to have processor at the bottom, then heating flows up into the heat pipe and mercifully on to the heatsink . . .
There is a tradeoff on blower model cards.
They DO tend to provide less cooling - but those blowers are ALL "Ball Bearing" which means it takes FOREVER for them to die.
I do agree with the other comments about "undervolt for long life" - and NOT just on blower models.
"takes FOREVER for them to die." They also will "death rattle" forever before they crap out completely as well.
@@pickelsvx I've noticed that - so you have plenty of warning to either get the fan on the card replaced (difficult, spares tend to not exist after so many years) or get a replacement/upgrade card.
I have GTX1070 blower card from HP. I guess I got good luck. 7 years without any issues.
I own a blower 1080ti founders edition and its perfect still. Bought it in 2017, mined with it and used it for extremely demanding generative Ai stuff. It still runs perfectly fine today.
I have heard that with these cards they are basically stock Nvidia PCBs and you could get a PNY heatsink for them. I haven't tried that with my 2060 yet but I noticed the HP 2060 has the same PCB as the lowest end EVGA 2060 which may be a viable upgrade.
I AGREE!I bought a 7970 and the blower fan went out so I RMA'ed it Came back and worked fine so I seen the problem so I sold it. My brother wanted it as it was a good card at the time. I bought it over Nvida because at one time Radeon was the best. Then AMD bought them and it went down hill. I told him that fan will die again and it did and he just gave it back to me and it still works IF the fan worked.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a blower style cooler when it is designed and implemented correctly. They do have advantages, such as moving heat out of the case instead of just dumping it inside to be recirculated into the same fan that is trying to cool.
It is a cooler design I particularly look out for on a GPU and I wish there were more blower coolers used today as long as they are done properly. I had an ATI(AMD) 3870x2 GPU which was a dual-GPU card with a blower cooler to cool it. It proved very reliable and lasted me several years. The cooling was effective, it didn't overheat and the blower fan didn't scream.
Man I still have my 3870x2. That thing would get really hot. I remember buying some small heat sinks and sticking them to the back of the metal plate.
@@adamsonntag5755 I'm surprised at that because mind didn't run that hot at all, hardly 'glowing in the dark'. I think earlier AMD GPUs had a default fan profile that ramped the fan up sooner, but then I also used large cases in those days with a lot of extra cooling and air going through them so that probably helped. I think the earlier drivers of that time were better at looking after the hardware, whereas the later driver were default tuned to allow the GPU to be used as a cooking appliance when under load because somebody thought GPUs should be silent or some such nonsense. I'd rather have my hardware, especially the more expensive components, have a long and healthy life.
The ruin of this card wasn't its blower design, it was its cheap design. I have had good experience with Gigabyte Turbo blower cards, RTX 2080 and Ti, as well as 3090. But I'm not here claiming they're bulletproof and urging people to never buy anything else again. Making blanket statements like "never buy blower cards" doesn't serve to educate consumers, it misleads them. If executed correctly, a blower style cooler is a perfectly fine solution, even superior to axial cooler designs in some situations.
Hi. I have been watching your videos for GPU repair and maintenance. I am piqued by your comment "this card will not last at the temperature it runs. It's 80 on core and 95 on memory." I use a gaming laptop and those are the exact speeds I have on my GPU. Should I be concerned? Those have been the temps on my card since I bought it. I am using a Lenovo Legion which I thought had the best cooling for laptop. I am using a 1660Ti. Looking forward to your reply. Thank you very much.
this card fan curve is mostly culprit of the temps as i've had same model looked exactly but it was a dell alienware one, undervolting and getting a custom curve mostly solved the high temp issue at least for me at that time and with the stock pads
I agree with the stated ... I've had a blower recently and I swear never to buy another ever again....
I got an Asus 2080 ti with a blower for a good discount. Put a water block on it and flashed the bios for the water cooled version to get better clocks. Been solid😊
If you own a blower card, just put up with more noise and up the fan speed. That keeps the problems away.
You should set a custom fan curve. All blower cards comefrom factory with a low fan rpm curve set to prioritize sound over temps and performance, its worth it to set a higher one, if you use your PC with headphones you wont even hear it anyways.
Try slapping the an Accelero Xtreme IV on it and it will improve the temps by a good healthy margin.
I had the 1080FE ( blower card ) which i used for VR for roughly 3yrs and it ran flawlessly, also had an ATI blower years ago which also ran flawlessly for about 5yrs - both cards were perfect when i sold them :)
Great work!
Thank you amazing video.
Great video! I agree, blower coolers just aren't as good. I think they are alright on lower power cards, though these days most cards pull a lot of power.
I put a heatsink and fans from a 770 on a Zotac 1080 TI that used to have a blower fan. IT dropped the trmps 25 degrees
I wonder what are the chances of this card living another year. Probably with undervolting and underclocking plus putting fan on max rpm would drop temperature significantly but one chip already died. It's probably just a matter of time when rest will join.
Those temps are too high. I've had to alter the fan curve on my Gaming X Trio 2080ti to protect the VRAM which was with the stock curve running at 90C often and even approaching 95C. That does not do the GDDR6 any good.
Tbf, they're workable with enough effort. I had a reference RX 5700XT. With liquid metal and some UV it dropped 20C under load and was much quieter.
People who live near you are blessed!
they think otherwise
Do you think this card has a vapour chamber design? I had a 1070 turbo from asus, it was blower style and vapour chamber, it ran really cool and quiet. Then again this 2080ti has 100W more TDP.
Good to know, Cheers.
i heard about FE editions of GPU's being hot as hell so thank God for those reviews on the web
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS
nice work as usual!