It also gives a clear image on which direction the springs go. That does make a difference for correct operation. The bottom tab on the governor spring is also how to get higher rpms. Bend that tab down slightly increasing tension gives you higher rpms. However to do that adjustment you need to know exactly what the rpms are. To high and you could blow the engine up. To low and you do not have a quality cut. 3600-3700 is what most mowers need. Do check the specs first.
Thank you sir for taking the time to help others you don't even know and making this very descriptive video. answered my questions. It is people like you that make the world a better place. God bless
Great video. I fixed a lawn mower about 4 years ago. Had the same issue but did not distroyed the engine and I was able to replace the device with the weights. It still works. BUT I never knew what mechanically had happened. Great to know.
Thank you so much for this video. I changed my carb and fooled with the governor like an idiot and had engine racing. Haven't ran it 1 full minute tho so very thankful for this video
I very much enjoy your teaching approach. Your 'show and tell' method is done with great clarity of detail, explaining how parts work and how each may depend on the proper performance of another. Also, I'm very pleased and impressed by the effort and time that you invest, in making sure that your viewers know the proper name of each part being replaced/repaired. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and skills with all of us. ~ Khoaken~
I was in the middle of evaluating my own 20HP Vtwin Intek problem, just prior to finding your video [above]. Normally, I'd call my brother, at his shop, and pick his brain-bone for advise. As a 45 year veteran of small engine repair, with certifications for doing warranty work for KOHLER and BRIGGS & STRATTON, he had a lot to bring to the table, when it came to question and answers. [At the risk of over sharing ... If my brother (Hal) had not passed away, on this past Labor Day weekend, we probably would not be having this exchange]. That aside, while attempting to access my engine problem, I was first convinced that I was dealing with a bad coil. Both coils tested, had spark. Still, it started well enough, but after about 30 to 45 minutes of mowing, it began to 'sputter' [like when there's only a small amount of gas kicking around at the bottom of the tank]. Of course, I went through everything from checking fuel filters, fuel lines and even the pump, to checking electrical 'cut off switches' and the wire harnesses themselves. Hal was still around at the time the trouble had begun, so I took my carburetor to the shop, ran it through the 'sonic' carb cleaner and even took it apart and cleaned the jets [one at a time (L & R)...lol] and put in a complete carb kit. Long story short ...today, here at my garage, I got to thinking about that time, and it dawned on me to check the springs that control the governor and throttle. Turns out that the 'governed spring' had come unhooked from the base plate. After reattaching it, I test started the engine. It ran quite well, except it needed a very small idle adjustment. I mowed with it, for about two hours. Now, I have a concern: While experiencing the engine trouble, I had mowed with the machine, about a dozen times. After about 45 minutes, I'd have to 'park it' in the garage, until the next day. Then, I could finish the mowing. Would you give me your thoughts regarding any concerns that I should be wary of, because of using it while the governed spring was not attached? [ additional note: After mowing today ( about two hours worth), and while driving back to the garage, with the deck disengaged, the engine sounded like it needed another minor idle adjustment. Any thoughts...? Just mentioning it as 'food for thought' .] Thanks. ~K~
Your one simple instruction about the governor adjustment at 5:00 was exactly what I needed and saved me SO MUCH TIME. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video.
Just replaced my oil pan/sump gasket after purchasing a used LA175 JD, and boom FULL RPM at start of the mower. JD and Briggs document that I could find were know help. Your video is exactly the information I was after and needed to be explained!!! Thank you , thank you and thanks again!
Really appreciate you doing this video. I dropped a pushrod into my crankcase and had to pull the engine to get it out. After starting it today I found something was wrong with the governor. I'll make the adjustments you mentioned now that I understand how it works.
This answered the exact question I had. I rebuilt the carb on my 28 hp B&S OHC v-twin, and in the process cleaned a bunch of built-up grime. I removed the governor arm bolt you pointed out in the process of removing the carb and gleaning all the gunk out (the gunk was caused by years of a leaking crank seal that I changed last year when I bought the tractor). I caused a racing condition when I put everything back together. Your video was a rifle shot explanation (hit the bulls eye). Thanks very much for making the video!
@@Gods-Elect did you find a solution? Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions. Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
Watched your video, because I have the same engine on my Husqvarna. Problem from day one was it was not choking.... Thanks to your video I was able to do the cable adjustment and I now have it cranking with a properly adjusted choke . Thanks.
Thank you for explaining everything the way that you explained it most guys don't do it like that and I really appreciate that it help me a lot and thank you for your videos God bless stay safe
Thank you very much I have been trying for a long time to figure this out should be this goddamn hard need more people like you in this world wish you the best
I did a repower on my John Deere z520a from a Kohler to Briggs cxi 2700 and have been racking my brain for two days trying to figure out how to hook up the throttle 😂 glad I found your video! Thanks!
thank you for explaining in less than 7 mins. there are ppl. that start talking about themselves or their life and their videos go over way too long, I don't have time for all that. Anyway, I am just going to take my machine to someone to adjust it because it's more complicated than I thought. My engine starting to rev, way too high while I was cutting grass on my riding lawnmower.
Just the video I was looking for. Over time the low idle speed has been creeping up. I had to replace the magnetos after a mouse ate through the wiring and when I reassembled it all the low idle was even higher - which I guess had to do with the new magnetos and plugs. I noticed the linkage was not hitting the idle stop so I did a little "bending" and made it worse...I lost top end power. I know my way around car engines but not all to familiar with small engines. Now that I know how all this stuff works together I think I can get I back to where it should be. Thanks for taking the time to explain it all brother !!
Thank you so much!! I bought a mower with the vangaurd motor n they had all that un hooked where they swapped the motor. Idk that was how it went, I thout it may be, after a while lookin, then seen yr video n I was like yes yes yes finally some one that shows all of it.
Thank you for the great video! The tractor I bought used was racing even on no throttle so I adjusted the governer as you instructed. Now throttle and idle is perfect. I’m just worried how much damage the last guy did to it.
Sir, thank you. There are many a video of Billy-Joes and Jim-bobs trying to have a TV show that leave out 75% of the info you gave. Thank you for both the no-nonsense explanation and the usefullness of said explanation.
The arms for the springs are final adjustments for the govenor but no one tells about that, you can change the springs but final low speed adjustment for the govenor is done by forming the arm that changes its tension on the govenor arm.
This video was they key to figuring out how to "set" everything. I have a 2004 L120 with the 20hp B&S intek and my sump gasket started to leak. Long store short I replaced it got the motor back on and bolted down, hook battery and starter back up and the fuel lines. Fired it up and it started to runaway so I killed the motor. 3hr into why is it running away I find this video. Which was the answer I was looking. A great video one the names of the parts to proper idel position on the throttle plate. ALTHOUGH it's all correct now the governor in the motor does not seem to be controlling the lever controlling my idel, UNLESS I'm holding the gonvenor level in the idle position. I hope I didn't screw up then internal governor parts. THANKS FOR THIS THOROUGH AND DETAILED VIDEO!! Am i going to have to pulled the sump back off to see what i have going on. Again the govenor level seem to NOT be undercontrol by the plunger that contacts the govenor rode that controls the governor lever. Let me know THANKS AGAIN
I'm not touching that governor. I don't need those kinds of problems. I did have to get my governor spring reattached though and this video was a big help for doing that. So thanks. I have a working throttle now again.
Thanks for making this video, though I found it too late. I purchased a 2005 Exmark Lazer Z from a guy who had replaced the engine with a 20hp Briggs Vanguard, and when I went to buy it, I noticed that he had to flip the throttle up to half in order to get it started, even when choked. It ran fine once started, and at full throttle, it seemed to me that it wasn't revving up high enough, and it would stumble quite a bit when the PTO was engaged, but it would recover and mowed fine. I bought it for a pretty deep discount, all things considered, but after mowing with it a few times, I knew something was off. I pulled the air breather and choke plate off, and didn't see anything unusual (my first thought was the throttle plate not opening all the way). Then I noticed the governor had a broken shaft spring, and a missing idle spring. The fat governor spring was there, but doesn't appear to be connected properly, or it is the wrong size. I spent several days googling to find a drawing or picture or schematic of how the springs should look, but couldn't find anything, so I just went ahead and used the parts diagram to order 3 new springs. I also spent $25 on a Briggs service manual, and after looking at the pictures in there, I could have just figured it out myself based on the length of the springs. Oh well, at least it should be running properly after I get the springs on there.
Might want to do a compression check or pull the heads and look at your gaskets. A bad head gasket will cause combustion gasses to enter the block and reduce the pressure differential across the piston. This can also cause poor acceleration and lack of power. Its also very common for them to go out.
@@mbakken11 I put the new governor springs on yesterday, and while I was at it, pulled the valve covers to check the lash. One of the cylinders had valves that were way out of spec, extremely loose. I set all of the valves to .005 per the manual, and now it purs like a kitten, and revs up and down just fine.
Hi, Checked compression, New Plugs, checked tappets. When I out 2 springs on, it runs flat out. If your move the arm from the Govermor you can control revs, you have to keep holding the lever. when I disconnect the small spring and add a light spring to the throttle I can use the mower carefully, engine runs smooth. Thanks
BTW, the length I was asking for was just for that short, stiff wire that goes on the side of the carb, (opposit the chock link) connected directly to the throttle, not the flexible cable going t the dash
Was trying to avoid over paying $5.00 (plus shipping) for $.001 worth of wire. I actually did have to bend some of the tabs to get the engine to idle right. There's another guy on the tube that talks about doing just that.
Thank you for the explanation! I replaced the carburetor on my Briggs engine (engine # 405777-0112-E1) and it just won’t start 🤦🏼♀️ I have choked it then no choke open throttle and tried half throttle- no luck… the gov springs are all on the right way… changed the old spark plugs out to new ones…. Still no luck… I’m puzzled but not giving up just yet… also the starter ain’t in the best shape either
Hello. Great vid. Infomation. I have a BS V TWIN. BUT mine unlike most has a single carb w horizonal shafts. I waited 2-1/2 months for a replacement. I am unsure of the linkage. Are any vids about this setup?????
My throttle wheel had the choke mechanism attached to it where, past the point of full throttle, the choke is engaged. Mine had a bit of dried mud stopping the choke lever from full travel upwards, if I had not looked, I would have never spotted it. Yep, that’ll cause it to be very hard to start. It borders on near impossible to start. That 1 lever!
At 3:00 minutes in your video you talk about the idle, I have a light spring that is around the rod that goes from the lever at the bottom to the throttle plate. I have the spring connected at the bottom but I don't know it attaches at the top.
Hey sorry to bug you but I have a quick question I have a YTH 22K48 Husqvarna rider and I just bought a Briggs and Stratton PXI2500 724 25hp motor. I’m trying to figure out where i connect my choke cable, you said connect the throttle cable to that front part but where do you attach the choke cable?? Thank you for taking the time to read this and hope to hear from you soon!
Thanks for the helpful video. I have a Briggs & Stratton Intek 7.0 which won’t run well and I’m wondering how to adjust it. It always starts from cold, but then the revs dip every six seconds or so and it either stalls or nearly stalls then recovers. Once warmed up a bit, it runs ok until I stop the engine, then after that it will never start again when warm. If it nearly starts it dies after a few secs. I guess I have to adjust governer, throttle or choke but I don’t know where to start.
i played with mine for almost an hour and put it back like it was in 2 min after watching. next time i might take a pic or two before i take one apart lol
Great video. I have an old Briggs& Stratton 22 HP twin cylinder, overhead valve engine. I was cutting and then the engine started running at max revs (much faster than the 'Fast' Setting on my Throttle Control Lever), even when I set the throttle to Slow/Idle. When I start the engine with the Throttle at Slow, the engine still runs at max rev. I see in your video that the throttle is wide open because of how the springs are set. Mine is the same... What will close the throttle plate to the Idle Screw? Right now I have to push the Governor Lever up manually. I dont see any holes or nooks for where a spring should be... Is there a third governor spring that broke off? I am not seeing anything in the Parts Manual that help me figure it out. Thanks.
What tensions the arm against the governor spring? When I throttle down, the spring gets loose and slips up the vertical hole in the arm (never pops out), but the arm doesn't go back up with it.
hey man i redoing one of these rn and this was very helpful. Can you show the orientation of the choke linkage. Or send a assembly guide or something. I'm used to motorcycles when the maker has complete diagrams of everything. Seems like these leave you out to dry. Appreciate it !
great video I had already set governor just as you showed and my engine still revs way too high. Just rebuilt from an auction find and did replace 1 push rod assembly and piston but all else seemed tight and when I can control the rev the engine runs great. little to no tension on the governor/throttle lever but the engine in full or no throttle still revs out. very confused...
Good afternoon....I really appreciate your detailed post....I've taken my Carb off,cleaned it put it back on and can't get things right. Can you share how to put carb on..hooking it up in full throttle position in order to have control of throttle speed (all I'm getting is WOT)......I have a 22 up Briggs v twin ohv Thanks in advance....Be blessed
I don't know what year model this is or if they made a change but I have an about 2015 vangaurd on a longtail and the rotation on the governor is counter clockwise. You will know as soon as you crank it for sure.
Great video! My 2009, Intek 23 hp has an automatic choke. The engine takes about 30 - 45 seconds to start when cold. Once warmed up it starts right up. Is it possible the choke isn’t working? How do I check?
I have a new B&S CXI 2500 V TWIN. All settings are as follows in video. At a loss because the engine only starts on choke and over revs likely to blow if I let it run too long. How tight do the adjustment springs need to be? Is there a factory spec? Can't find much on this engine. Thanks
Replaced govner gear and set. Put all back together and idles like it should. I try to throttlle up and it wonr idle up. Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated thank you! Also thanks for video i looked at mine and appears to be hooked up the same
You are a star! I’ve rebuilt the carb on my 24hp Intek V twin (44S877].. Now I can’t see how to reconnect the linkages!! Any way you might show what rods connect to what? Best...
I believe I have that exact motor on a mower at our farm, but I won't be able to get pictures of it for a while. The linkages should be very similar to this video, otherwise you can look up your engine on a site like ereplacementparts.com or Jack's small engine. They have exploded diagrams that are mildly useful. Sorry I can't be more help at the moment
You mentioned “ a lever going to the auto choke” I have the auto choke and the lever was missing when I purchased the mower so can you describe the location and placement of the auto choke that is the bimetallic heating choke.
I have a els425 that the big gov spring is doing nothing and has no tension on it at all. Also the rod going to the carb just falls off if I hold it at idle it runs great I got it used I adjusted the gov the way you said and still no luck. Going to adjust it again but I think that rod going to carb is out of wack. Also the no tension on the big gov spring is odd please help
Big question I'm building a racing mower with one of these motors I wont it to rev high but idle low and have a pedal so I wont to tale off the governor but I dont wont to risk my pistons going Bluetooth mode like his did would it work of I just keep pressure on the spring and the arm (or other way around) it should lose parts right
The governor and throttle springs came off on my b&s 26 hp intek engine. I think i got a good look at the governor spring location but not the throttle spring location.can you clarify it for me?
I've got this issue but realised the problem straight away when it ran too fast and turned it off right away.....it's still compressing ok so not sure what to do next
I have a single barrel carb on these v twin intek 24hp engines ... Is there a way to upgrade to a two barrel carb ? Any advantage ? Application is a husqvarna yta24 48
Finally (on CZcams) someone who knows what he is talking about and can explain it clearly with great pictures.
This is the best video for explaining the linkage/spring locations and the governor's operation. Thank you.
It also gives a clear image on which direction the springs go. That does make a difference for correct operation. The bottom tab on the governor spring is also how to get higher rpms. Bend that tab down slightly increasing tension gives you higher rpms. However to do that adjustment you need to know exactly what the rpms are. To high and you could blow the engine up. To low and you do not have a quality cut. 3600-3700 is what most mowers need. Do check the specs first.
This is a great video. Very few videos on YOU TUBE have a detailed explanation as good as this video. Thanks!
Thank you sir for taking the time to help others you don't even know and making this very descriptive video.
answered my questions. It is people like you that make the world a better place.
God bless
Glad I found you're video! All my questions answered, now I begin my rebuild.
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the clear description!
Thanks to you and this video,I can reassemble stuff that I take apart on a heavy drinking night!
Great video. I fixed a lawn mower about 4 years ago. Had the same issue but did not distroyed the engine and I was able to replace the device with the weights. It still works. BUT I never knew what mechanically had happened. Great to know.
Very well done explanation with excellent production qualities. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. I changed my carb and fooled with the governor like an idiot and had engine racing. Haven't ran it 1 full minute tho so very thankful for this video
I very much enjoy your teaching approach. Your 'show and tell' method is done with great clarity of detail, explaining how parts work and how each may depend on the proper performance of another. Also, I'm very pleased and impressed by the effort and time that you invest, in making sure that your viewers know the proper name of each part being replaced/repaired. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and skills with all of us. ~ Khoaken~
mrcashcrop thank you, I appreciate the comment. I feel obligated to help the community if I can after all I've learned from others over the years.
I was in the middle of evaluating my own 20HP Vtwin Intek problem, just prior to finding your video [above]. Normally, I'd call my brother, at his shop, and pick his brain-bone for advise. As a 45 year veteran of small engine repair, with certifications for doing warranty work for KOHLER and BRIGGS & STRATTON, he had a lot to bring to the table, when it came to question and answers. [At the risk of over sharing ... If my brother (Hal) had not passed away, on this past Labor Day weekend, we probably would not be having this exchange]. That aside, while attempting to access my engine problem, I was first convinced that I was dealing with a bad coil. Both coils tested, had spark. Still, it started well enough, but after about 30 to 45 minutes of mowing, it began to 'sputter' [like when there's only a small amount of gas kicking around at the bottom of the tank].
Of course, I went through everything from checking fuel filters, fuel lines and even the pump, to checking electrical 'cut off switches' and the wire harnesses themselves. Hal was still around at the time the trouble had begun, so I took my carburetor to the shop, ran it through the 'sonic' carb cleaner and even took it apart and cleaned the jets [one at a time (L & R)...lol] and put in a complete carb kit. Long story short ...today, here at my garage, I got to thinking about that time, and it dawned on me to check the springs that control the governor and throttle. Turns out that the 'governed spring' had come unhooked from the base plate. After reattaching it, I test started the engine. It ran quite well, except it needed a very small idle adjustment. I mowed with it, for about two hours. Now, I have a concern: While experiencing the engine trouble, I had mowed with the machine, about a dozen times. After about 45 minutes, I'd have to 'park it' in the garage, until the next day. Then, I could finish the mowing. Would you give me your thoughts regarding any concerns that I should be wary of, because of using it while the governed spring was not attached? [ additional note: After mowing today ( about two hours worth), and while driving back to the garage, with the deck disengaged, the engine sounded like it needed another minor idle adjustment. Any thoughts...? Just mentioning it as 'food for thought' .] Thanks. ~K~
Your one simple instruction about the governor adjustment at 5:00 was exactly what I needed and saved me SO MUCH TIME. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video.
Where did you order the spring from? I’m having the same issue.
@@johnminckler4605 Hey John, I'm just a commenter, not the video maker. I had my original spring.
Great video. The adjustment explanation is perfect!
Just replaced my oil pan/sump gasket after purchasing a used LA175 JD, and boom FULL RPM at start of the mower. JD and Briggs document that I could find were know help. Your video is exactly the information I was after and needed to be explained!!! Thank you , thank you and thanks again!
This is great. I was looking for info on how the throttle body works. Thank you!
Exactly what I needed to know. Great explanation and good audio/video work. Thanks a bunch!
You're the only person that has ever described The Springs and their action
Really appreciate you doing this video. I dropped a pushrod into my crankcase and had to pull the engine to get it out. After starting it today I found something was wrong with the governor. I'll make the adjustments you mentioned now that I understand how it works.
This answered the exact question I had. I rebuilt the carb on my 28 hp B&S OHC v-twin, and in the process cleaned a bunch of built-up grime. I removed the governor arm bolt you pointed out in the process of removing the carb and gleaning all the gunk out (the gunk was caused by years of a leaking crank seal that I changed last year when I bought the tractor). I caused a racing condition when I put everything back together. Your video was a rifle shot explanation (hit the bulls eye). Thanks very much for making the video!
I have the racing condition how did you fix it?
@@Gods-Elect did you find a solution?
Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions.
Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
Watched your video, because I have the same engine on my Husqvarna. Problem from day one was it was not choking....
Thanks to your video I was able to do the cable adjustment and I now have it cranking with a properly adjusted choke . Thanks.
Thank you for explaining everything the way that you explained it most guys don't do it like that and I really appreciate that it help me a lot and thank you for your videos God bless stay safe
that was very good, all questions answered, with out asking,
Thank you very much I have been trying for a long time to figure this out should be this goddamn hard need more people like you in this world wish you the best
Very good procedure and accurate I have replaced a couple of gov gear kits also replaced push rods thanks
I did a repower on my John Deere z520a from a Kohler to Briggs cxi 2700 and have been racking my brain for two days trying to figure out how to hook up the throttle 😂 glad I found your video! Thanks!
Thank you so much You just answered all of my questions
Thanks .... This is THE BEST explanation if the governor parts and adjustments I've seen to date.
Well done..very clear explanation, and clear pictures, thanx
Although I have an earlier version of the twin V the throttle/ governor assembly is the same. Your explanation is very helpful, thanks.
Thanks so much for the video! I am completeling repair to the same engine on my mower and didn't photograph the governor linkage before disassembly.
Thanks this has baffled me for a while.
Very well presented. Very knowledgeable, as well
Thanks for the knowledge it fixed my problem
Thank you for sharing! 👍👍
Thanks boss good video now I can re set my governor
This video helped me. Thank you.
thank you for explaining in less than 7 mins. there are ppl. that start talking about themselves or their life and their videos go over way too long, I don't have time for all that. Anyway, I am just going to take my machine to someone to adjust it because it's more complicated than I thought. My engine starting to rev, way too high while I was cutting grass on my riding lawnmower.
Great info again!! Thank you!
Terrific video, I’ve always wondered why my 23hp had no choke.
Excellent engine control safety video and explanation.
That was very helpful - thanks!!!
Other great video. Thank You
Just the video I was looking for. Over time the low idle speed has been creeping up. I had to replace the magnetos after a mouse ate through the wiring and when I reassembled it all the low idle was even higher - which I guess had to do with the new magnetos and plugs. I noticed the linkage was not hitting the idle stop so I did a little "bending" and made it worse...I lost top end power. I know my way around car engines but not all to familiar with small engines. Now that I know how all this stuff works together I think I can get I back to where it should be. Thanks for taking the time to explain it all brother !!
Great VIDEO!
top notch explanation, thanks!
Thank you so much!! I bought a mower with the vangaurd motor n they had all that un hooked where they swapped the motor. Idk that was how it went, I thout it may be, after a while lookin, then seen yr video n I was like yes yes yes finally some one that shows all of it.
Great explanation!
mbakken11 thank you, this video was super helpful
Brilliant explanation.
Excellent video thank you
Thank you for the great video! The tractor I bought used was racing even on no throttle so I adjusted the governer as you instructed. Now throttle and idle is perfect. I’m just worried how much damage the last guy did to it.
helped me a whole lot thanks
Thank you sir. Just rebuilt my motor and had no idea what to think. Easy fix, thanks to your simple video
Excellent video
Great video
Sir, thank you. There are many a video of Billy-Joes and Jim-bobs trying to have a TV show that leave out 75% of the info you gave. Thank you for both the no-nonsense explanation and the usefullness of said explanation.
Helpful ! Thank you !!
The arms for the springs are final adjustments for the govenor but no one tells about that, you can change the springs but final low speed adjustment for the govenor is done by forming the arm that changes its tension on the govenor arm.
This video was they key to figuring out how to "set" everything. I have a 2004 L120 with the 20hp B&S intek and my sump gasket started to leak. Long store short I replaced it got the motor back on and bolted down, hook battery and starter back up and the fuel lines. Fired it up and it started to runaway so I killed the motor. 3hr into why is it running away I find this video. Which was the answer I was looking. A great video one the names of the parts to proper idel position on the throttle plate. ALTHOUGH it's all correct now the governor in the motor does not seem to be controlling the lever controlling my idel, UNLESS I'm holding the gonvenor level in the idle position. I hope I didn't screw up then internal governor parts. THANKS FOR THIS THOROUGH AND DETAILED VIDEO!! Am i going to have to pulled the sump back off to see what i have going on. Again the govenor level seem to NOT be undercontrol by the plunger that contacts the govenor rode that controls the governor lever. Let me know THANKS AGAIN
Very useful information thanks for sharing.
I'm not touching that governor. I don't need those kinds of problems. I did have to get my governor spring reattached though and this video was a big help for doing that. So thanks. I have a working throttle now again.
Thank you it helps me
That pretty much explains how the connecting rods were both broken in a mower that I just got the other day.
Thanks for making this video, though I found it too late. I purchased a 2005 Exmark Lazer Z from a guy who had replaced the engine with a 20hp Briggs Vanguard, and when I went to buy it, I noticed that he had to flip the throttle up to half in order to get it started, even when choked. It ran fine once started, and at full throttle, it seemed to me that it wasn't revving up high enough, and it would stumble quite a bit when the PTO was engaged, but it would recover and mowed fine. I bought it for a pretty deep discount, all things considered, but after mowing with it a few times, I knew something was off. I pulled the air breather and choke plate off, and didn't see anything unusual (my first thought was the throttle plate not opening all the way). Then I noticed the governor had a broken shaft spring, and a missing idle spring. The fat governor spring was there, but doesn't appear to be connected properly, or it is the wrong size.
I spent several days googling to find a drawing or picture or schematic of how the springs should look, but couldn't find anything, so I just went ahead and used the parts diagram to order 3 new springs. I also spent $25 on a Briggs service manual, and after looking at the pictures in there, I could have just figured it out myself based on the length of the springs. Oh well, at least it should be running properly after I get the springs on there.
Might want to do a compression check or pull the heads and look at your gaskets. A bad head gasket will cause combustion gasses to enter the block and reduce the pressure differential across the piston. This can also cause poor acceleration and lack of power. Its also very common for them to go out.
@@mbakken11 I put the new governor springs on yesterday, and while I was at it, pulled the valve covers to check the lash. One of the cylinders had valves that were way out of spec, extremely loose. I set all of the valves to .005 per the manual, and now it purs like a kitten, and revs up and down just fine.
GOOD JOB
That's the best video I've ever seen wished the ones that show what people won't to to could be voted to come up first when people Google it !!
Hi, Checked compression, New Plugs, checked tappets. When I out 2 springs on, it runs flat out.
If your move the arm from the Govermor you can control revs, you have to keep holding the lever.
when I disconnect the small spring and add a light spring to the throttle I can use the mower carefully, engine runs smooth.
Thanks
Question, if the bottom governor spring were not connected, how would the engine run? (very informative.)
BTW, the length I was asking for was just for that short, stiff wire that goes on the side of the carb, (opposit the chock link) connected directly to the throttle, not the flexible cable going t the dash
nice tutorial
Was trying to avoid over paying $5.00 (plus shipping) for $.001 worth of wire. I actually did have to bend some of the tabs to get the engine to idle right. There's another guy on the tube that talks about doing just that.
Thank you for the explanation! I replaced the carburetor on my Briggs engine (engine # 405777-0112-E1) and it just won’t start 🤦🏼♀️ I have choked it then no choke open throttle and tried half throttle- no luck… the gov springs are all on the right way… changed the old spark plugs out to new ones…. Still no luck… I’m puzzled but not giving up just yet… also the starter ain’t in the best shape either
Hello. Great vid. Infomation. I have a BS V TWIN. BUT mine unlike most has a single carb w horizonal shafts. I waited 2-1/2 months for a replacement. I am unsure of the linkage. Are any vids about this setup?????
My throttle wheel had the choke mechanism attached to it where, past the point of full throttle, the choke is engaged. Mine had a bit of dried mud stopping the choke lever from full travel upwards, if I had not looked, I would have never spotted it. Yep, that’ll cause it to be very hard to start. It borders on near impossible to start. That 1 lever!
Excellent. I will have a question.
At 3:00 minutes in your video you talk about the idle, I have a light spring that is around the rod that goes from the lever at the bottom to the throttle plate. I have the spring connected at the bottom but I don't know it attaches at the top.
Hey sorry to bug you but I have a quick question I have a YTH 22K48 Husqvarna rider and I just bought a Briggs and Stratton PXI2500 724 25hp motor. I’m trying to figure out where i connect my choke cable, you said connect the throttle cable to that front part but where do you attach the choke cable?? Thank you for taking the time to read this and hope to hear from you soon!
Thanks for the helpful video. I have a Briggs & Stratton Intek 7.0 which won’t run well and I’m wondering how to adjust it. It always starts from cold, but then the revs dip every six seconds or so and it either stalls or nearly stalls then recovers. Once warmed up a bit, it runs ok until I stop the engine, then after that it will never start again when warm. If it nearly starts it dies after a few secs. I guess I have to adjust governer, throttle or choke but I don’t know where to start.
i played with mine for almost an hour and put it back like it was in 2 min after watching. next time i might take a pic or two before i take one apart lol
Great video. I have an old Briggs& Stratton 22 HP twin cylinder, overhead valve engine. I was cutting and then the engine started running at max revs (much faster than the 'Fast' Setting on my Throttle Control Lever), even when I set the throttle to Slow/Idle. When I start the engine with the Throttle at Slow, the engine still runs at max rev. I see in your video that the throttle is wide open because of how the springs are set. Mine is the same... What will close the throttle plate to the Idle Screw? Right now I have to push the Governor Lever up manually. I dont see any holes or nooks for where a spring should be... Is there a third governor spring that broke off? I am not seeing anything in the Parts Manual that help me figure it out. Thanks.
What tensions the arm against the governor spring? When I throttle down, the spring gets loose and slips up the vertical hole in the arm (never pops out), but the arm doesn't go back up with it.
hey man i redoing one of these rn and this was very helpful. Can you show the orientation of the choke linkage. Or send a assembly guide or something. I'm used to motorcycles when the maker has complete diagrams of everything. Seems like these leave you out to dry. Appreciate it !
great video
I had already set governor just as you showed and my engine still revs way too high. Just rebuilt from an auction find and did replace 1 push rod assembly and piston but all else seemed tight and when I can control the rev the engine runs great. little to no tension on the governor/throttle lever but the engine in full or no throttle still revs out. very confused...
Good afternoon....I really appreciate your detailed post....I've taken my Carb off,cleaned it put it back on and can't get things right.
Can you share how to put carb on..hooking it up in full throttle position in order to have control of throttle speed (all I'm getting is WOT)......I have a 22 up Briggs v twin ohv
Thanks in advance....Be blessed
I don't know what year model this is or if they made a change but I have an about 2015 vangaurd on a longtail and the rotation on the governor is counter clockwise. You will know as soon as you crank it for sure.
Great video! My 2009, Intek 23 hp has an automatic choke. The engine takes about 30 - 45 seconds to start when cold. Once warmed up it starts right up. Is it possible the choke isn’t working? How do I check?
LL you're talking about is The throttle. I wanted to know how to hook up the choke
I have a new B&S CXI 2500 V TWIN. All settings are as follows in video. At a loss because the engine only starts on choke and over revs likely to blow if I let it run too long. How tight do the adjustment springs need to be? Is there a factory spec? Can't find much on this engine. Thanks
Replaced govner gear and set. Put all back together and idles like it should. I try to throttlle up and it wonr idle up. Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated thank you! Also thanks for video i looked at mine and appears to be hooked up the same
You are a star! I’ve rebuilt the carb on my 24hp Intek V twin (44S877].. Now I can’t see how to reconnect the linkages!! Any way you might show what rods connect to what? Best...
I believe I have that exact motor on a mower at our farm, but I won't be able to get pictures of it for a while. The linkages should be very similar to this video, otherwise you can look up your engine on a site like ereplacementparts.com or Jack's small engine. They have exploded diagrams that are mildly useful. Sorry I can't be more help at the moment
You mentioned “ a lever going to the auto choke” I have the auto choke and the lever was missing when I purchased the mower so can you describe the location and placement of the auto choke that is the bimetallic heating choke.
Great job... what a mess, curiosity killed the cat.....cant mess with those governors!!! ... great video, well done.... thanks B 🙄🤣
Boss for the Honda GX 630 coil equation that matches what it is mine also died on the other side
great info !! should you adjust your governor once in awhile ? because your motor vibrates so much , you would think it would come out of adjustment .
If it aint broke, dont fix it. If it's properly tightened it should not move on you or require adjustment.
I have a els425 that the big gov spring is doing nothing and has no tension on it at all. Also the rod going to the carb just falls off if I hold it at idle it runs great I got it used I adjusted the gov the way you said and still no luck. Going to adjust it again but I think that rod going to carb is out of wack. Also the no tension on the big gov spring is odd please help
the idle is controlled by the idle screw on the carburettor
Big question I'm building a racing mower with one of these motors I wont it to rev high but idle low and have a pedal so I wont to tale off the governor but I dont wont to risk my pistons going Bluetooth mode like his did would it work of I just keep pressure on the spring and the arm (or other way around) it should lose parts right
The governor and throttle springs came off on my b&s 26 hp intek engine. I think i got a good look at the governor spring location but not the throttle spring location.can you clarify it for me?
I've got this issue but realised the problem straight away when it ran too fast and turned it off right away.....it's still compressing ok so not sure what to do next
I have a single barrel carb on these v twin intek 24hp engines ... Is there a way to upgrade to a two barrel carb ? Any advantage ?
Application is a husqvarna yta24 48