Training For Climbing - Finger Strength
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- čas přidán 12. 01. 2017
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In a brand new training series from EpicTV, climbing coach and author Eric Horst talks us through the steps needed to become an all round better climber. First off: finger strength.
Stay tuned to EpicTV.com for more training tips. And check out our range of training aids here....shop.epictv.com/en/products/t...
Director: George Bruce Wilson
Producer: Three Peak Films - Sport
I think i'm getting the hang of this
😐
Ahhh i see what you did there
💀
so glad I have learnt how to train my Fingures
Appleseedlol lmfao
I saw that straight away then scrolled!
I like it when he talks about himself in the third person.
Chris Peacock that means he’s either a great boss and motivator and isn’t self-centered.
Ahh, my fingures
oh man, my fingures are so much stronger after this. thank you!
Oh yeah
Thanks John McEnroe.
hahah....I thought wtf is doing this jerk in this channel.
Always great advice. Thanks, Eric!
Great video. I've found most introductory HB training too aggressive for me, and I find I get over-use symptoms pretty quickly. I think this will be a better intro for me.
Thx Eric and Epic TV.
Good video. Appropriate time under tension for the target fibers. Appropriate rest. Good philosophy. Avoiding overtraining. I like. 2 thumbs up.
I just realized this is the gym I go to. Such a dope gym
Yes, please more videos like that!👌👌
I Like your Videos. Of course, their exists different Training Protokols, and for me IT IS enough.
Thank you eric
Thanks for the tips
This was very helpful, thank you.
I startet the beginner training a few weeks ago. And I really see a Progress! In the beginning I started with two rounds, then three and now I am up to complete the fourth round.
Here's the question: should I go up to 5 or 6 rounds with this weight or when should I take more added weight (and Set back the number of rounds)????
Many thanks for this guide.
Also, Penn State represent!
wauw, my fingures are convinced!
THANK YOU! VERY VERY COMPREHENSIVE!!! FORMIDABLE! MERCI BEAUCOUP!
Hello Mr. Eric thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have one question; Should I do this finger strength training before or after my regular climbing day at the gym? I have been climbing for about 8 months and I climb 5.10B and V3's..
Really helpful...
Thanks a lot :)
and stronger fingures can be admired by many!
Marc see *fingers
Really nice video and training. The idea is to do 5-6 sets with the same holds, isnt it? When you supose to try different holds?
Thanks
Thank you. It was very helpful for me.I,m very grateful.
At 1:45 I learned to use minimun edges for my fingures
1:09 “fingures”
That's absolutely hilarious you pointed that out
is he talking about himself in 3rd person?
Penn State in the background! WE ARE!
I have just started bouldering, but want to do some extra training to improve faster. Should I do the hang training for beginners before bouldering, or after?
Not at all yet, just bouldering alone will increase your overall fitness and skill more than hangboarding at first. Plus, your tendons take a long time to develop, once you have a solid baseline, than you can squeeze some extra gains out of hangboarding. No need to rush it, just enjoy the process.
Yeah not something you wanna rush. Too much strain on your tendons and SNAP! Now you're out for weeks, possibly months and back at square one. Or even square negative one if you factor in rehab.
Lara and Nathan inspired me man
how many times in a week is good for training fingers? is good doing the two types of training the same week?
About when should I consider throwing in some hangboard exercises? I currently climb about 2 days per week. Sometimes more sometimes less. My skill level is about at about a V3/4 level so still a beginner. I really enjoy climbing but I don't want to over extend and end up hurting myself. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Zachary Greaves ive always been told to not even consider it until you have at least a year under your belt, and even then to wait longer
So how long should I climb before I do the Minimum Edge Training and Maximum Weight Training?
Okay the Maximum Training you should only do two times a week. And what about the beginner Training? I Hope I get an useful answer. Thanks
How many times a week would you advise to do the first training? (I boulder 2/3 times a week, 6b)
I am following this training protocol. I did it 4 weeks (minimum edge), now I am in a rest week, and I will do another 4 weeks block. I using the same hold in the 5 sets, is it right?
since i dont go to a gym i just hang on my door frame
as for those of us beginners who cant even hang for 1 second, how can we get started?
I've been to that gym
shout out to momentum lehi
Thank you very much
Can you strengthen your fingers without a finger board or regular climbing?
i really need to get a campus board so i can train at home
hey, these are a pretty good solution shop.epictv.com/en/fingerboards-training/moon/campus-rungs
that might actually work. im debating on that or the metolius project board, even though its a bit higher on the price range. thnx for the recommendation
EpicTV I'm renting so I can't put stuff like that above a doorway. Do you guys know of anywhere that makes stands for fingerboards?
Build a free standing system. Use bolts not skrews on the major joints so you can take it apart and rebuild it in your next place. I googled it and found this little helpful link. www.seekingexposure.com/freestanding-fingerboard-mount/
I have set mine up in a rented place by screwing the hangboard to a sheet of rubber backed wood with another sheet on the back and using some big G-clamps to hold it on. Works perfectly with no screws
should you finger strength train before or after a climbing session
It can vary, but I try to do one session fresh(before climbing) each week. Other times after or mixed in for short mini-sessions.
I've been to that bouldering gym. I was in the USA climbing regional competition there.
I've gone for a comp too
@@elisabethjohnson3081 Nice
where'd you get those stickers at 4:47 ?
Nice but what I personally lack the most is strength on slopers and pinchers and sadly a lot of the gyms I've been to don't offer a lot of training holds for that. I have no problems with two-finger hangs and campusing up and down on small edges but throw a tough sloper my way and I'm out :|
Florian B I heard slopers are not about strength but about skills try using ur whole palm
6:04: "Three to five days of aggregate training and climbing per week is more than enough; doing any more tempts injury."
What is the meaning of the word 'aggregate' in this context?
means that both climbing days and training days count towards the total. In other words, take 2-4 complete rest days a week
For what it's worth, I thought it was an excellent word choice!
you must be in finance! likewise bro! i thought it was nice word too :)
Nah bro I'm not, but I did take an Econ course and I have a great memory. :) I read a ton, too.
I'm sure I'll get the hang of it..
Why should the hang terminate a few seconds before failure. Why not go for the max? Thanks for an answer :)
The goal is to tax your muscles enough for adaptation, but not enough to get injured. Usually, in a regular weight training, you would perform until failure provided that you can keep form. The climbing exercises that are suggested here, are for smaller musles, tendons and joints and are injured easily. Therefore it is best to prevent excess strain by stopping short of failure. But I'm just a random guy on the internet.
Le Psycho Well, thank you for the answer. Believe it or not but I still think about this question at least every second day. So I am really thankful for the answer.
So, correct me if I'm wrong, the exercise to create grip strength is mainly to train the forearm which is not the smallest muscle. I'm guessing that you mean the joints in the finger that are also under stress and are injured easily. But to be honest, so I'm able to hold onto an edge for 15secs it has to be fairly good and the risk of ingury is therfore reduced anyway. But I can imagine that this exercise is also for people who just start out on the campusboard/hangboard and don't have as strengthend joints and ligaments jet
I know another good way to train your fingers.
PUSSY!!!!!!!!
Kneading dough?
keithc1234 gaming
*fingures
Hello sir
I am a special educator for multiple disable child in india.
I have one my student who has very poor finger grip in both hands so he suffers from difficulty in daily activities. he is using thumb and first finger of both hands for catching things . ( The problem accurs because of seizure) .
can you help me by suggest some activities for fingers gripping strength??
Watching this with a broken thumb
None of these use your thumb tho
How do I gain finger strength without using those equipments. Is there an exercise I can do right at home
If you're strong enough hang from your door frame, but some frames are too small for this.
They also make rubber donuts that help to strengthen your fingers and forearms. I do this all the time at home and in the car. You can find a 3 pack of varying pressures on amazon for cheap.
Cool! I think I got the HANG of this . . .
hey, ive been bouldering for a little bit, still a novice tho so i'll stick to climbing to improve for now.. I was still wondering why you shouldn't exercise with the full crimp hold when training fingers? thank you!
I think it's because you'll get injured faster with a full crimp
Qc1booboo because theres to much action on your finger pulleys, the risk of an injury is much higher. you should take that risk just for some good gos in your project ;)
never full crimp when training, you shouldnt need to full crimp until youre at like v10 and its a outdoor session
hmmm v10 sounds a bit extreme, i rarely crimp (think i can count on one hand how many times i have, maybe two hands) but I've done a couple problems indoors even around the v6/7 range that i just couldn't do without full-on crimping. but i agree you should never crimp when training, the risk is just not worth it
apparentlt full crimp is only more for stability as well. Look a the grippul challenge. then the strongest crimper there crimped like 110kgs? and that wasn't a full crimp. they discovered people preferred to opt for a half crimp if going for power.
Where is the transition from beginning climber to more advanced? I feel like I'm currently climbing consistent v5 at my local gym, but I'm not fully capable of finishing v6. I went from barely v1 to solid v5 in about 3 or 4 months of consistent climbing. I'd like to start training more seriously, but I don't want to jump the gun and injure myself. Am I at the right level to start finger training or should I wait longer?
If you've only been at it a few months you'll likely get more value from just climbing and working on technique rather than doing finger training. Maybe give it another year of consistent climbing before worrying about climbing-specific training.
Right on. Thanks for the advice.
Hey guys, need some advice here, so I've been climbing approximately 12 times and 2hrs per session indoors bouldering gym, but so far my finger strength is still lacking compared to other people (who seems to have been bouldering for much longer than I have) and I can only do up to level 3 in an indoor scale and stuck, so am I being too impatient or am I lacking finger strength and overall body strength training?
Justin Chan I’ve been climbing for about 2 years and didn’t start hangboarding until 1 year in. I just did pull ups at my house and went to the gym twice a week. Also, how often do you go to the gym? I currently go 3 days a week and hangboard 2 days a week. If you are going only once a week, it is going to go slow. 3 times a week would be the best, and after a several months you can supplement that with some extra hangboard training on days you don’t go. Hope that helps.
I'm going to the bouldering gym 2 times a week, but trying to push it to 3
this guy sounds like ultimate survival tips
Fuuuuck - i rested for 2:02 last session .. i guess my season is over now and i need to focus on retraining my fingers after a break.
Helios
What is this background music!?
Chipmonkcheeks53 darude sandstorm
Chipmonkcheeks53 despacito 2
Richard reccomends a spell checker before uploading. Quality vid tho
"reccomends"
What was the name of the app that you mentioned in the video?
Where is this gym? Must visit
It's Momentum! In Utah
curious is there some type of training for toe strength because one could develop strong fingers with crappy toe endurance which i imagine is bad your only as good as your weakest link
sam111880 not really as you can compensate a lack with a strength somewhere else. Anyhow, your toes are not likely to give up before your hands do
I dont think ive ever failed a climb because either of my legs gave out.
You need core to get more force into your toes. So what you are looking for is core training.
Running in sand is the only thing I can think of.
Can't we create a supporting iron glove or something? Just for fingers?a gauntlet perhaps.
That guy counts very fast, his 15 secs felt like 4 sec and his 7 secs felt like 2
Its just you not feeling time at all. Check it - his 12 sec is ~12sec
I can't even hang for half a second. It feels just as impossible as slowing down a passing truck with one finger.
Hang on the top of the hangboard
god my hands hurt
Can I climb after that kind of training? or Is best if I only do the finger training and rest?
Darío Orellana I would sugest do this after done climbing or if you have 2 days off.
Darío Orellana This is a finger strenght training... always do it after a good warm up. You can climb after your training but make sure you're doing some climbing related to power/strenght like bouldering, otherwise you'll anulate or rest efectivity to your finger strenght training (do not climb endurance for the next 8 to 12 hours minimum).
Thanks a lot for the words Rodrigo!
i do this after my bouldersession but only 2 times a week! sometimes only once a week depends on how many days im bouldering ;-)
What are fingures
Long work out sessions may leave you in pain and with muscle soreness. Using this tool may help improve endurance and muscle conditioning. Anyone that’s active needs to have a BEMER. Visit the BEMER GROUP website today and check out this amazing instrument.
You forgot to say that we need to hydrate a lot to avoid injuries ! But don't drawn yourselves ! ;)
ps i boulder every Monday - Weds - Thursday 1hr per day - will i stress my self doing that way or will it be good ;p
youll be fine. its only an hour, i train three days a week for 2-3 hours and climb outside 2 days a week for 6+ (including belay time)
Yeah you should climb for 2 hours at least 3 times a week.
Instructions unclear: cat in toaster
when you realize this was filmed at your home gym
I had no idea Art Garfunkel was a climbing guru
I add this into my warmup and cool down routine. For that compensatory stretching and strengthening of my hands.
adventuresportoutfitters.com/products/grip-strengthener
John McEnroe?
This must be his long lost twin.
Damn stronger fingers are just the key life huh 🤔😂
My friends do / have a indoor climbing gym. I went there twice but I'm a guy with small fingers and I didn't like how the fingers hurt. There are some pains I can stand like punches, gym-soreness or that feeling of being out of breathe. But finger pain is not for me
Joao Rocha No pain no gain.
Joao Rocha Pussssssy
Yeah this is a sport for skinny white kids lol, not really an athletic one. Fucks up your joints and fingers.
Better than you ?!?! lol this is for ACTUAL fit people, this shit requires technique and body strength.
Totally Not Earth yeah sorry didn't mean to offend, it's not your standard athletic sport though, you know what I mean
dude 3-5training days. I could never do less than 5 days per week. What would I do on so much rest days
Run, surf, cycle, longboard...
Why does this training cause injury to then nervous system? I can't see how it would....... and if you did injure nerves, a few days is definitely not enough to recover from nerve injury lol.
NickLiang He meant rest for a few days to avoid over straining or injury and it can effect the nerves in people hands and fore arms as I've seen from other climbers who used to train too hard. They can no longer grip as well and have a serious tendon and ligament problems that won't go away with time.
He didn't say that it injures the nervous system, just that it's incredibly taxing (since we rarely use these muscles to such a strenuous degree on a daily basis)
That’s my gym
O
edvin jansson 🏞
Hugo Wehlin 🏕
edvin jansson 🌄
Bruh I can't hang onto a pullup bar for longer than 2 mins either my palm or my fingers start to burn depending on the grip
trying to get into rock climbing then why not start by getting a better grip if you are interested in having a better grip and not falling then you should try this grip master pro for just $13 what are you waiting for
amzn.to/2xz9ycT
I can't wait till I get the "hang" of it. 😂
What are the different types of grips?!? You wizzed right past them...wth
No he didn't. Minimum finger you can do, keep thumb away.
I can't hang for more than maybe 3 seconds with just my fingers.
Who else watched this because they want to be like nathan drake
i have strong finguers! 1:05
You’re wrong in some points, never crimp if you’re feeling pain, any form of pain during a crimp STOP! You will end up damaging your fingers
Lol this guy thinks we have all the time in the world to rest. When I am in the gym I am only there for about 2 hours about 5 times a week, so I gotta make my time count. I'm not going to do 12 secs hang with a 2 min break, come on! I have been doing 20 secs hang (with a hold that I max out around 30 to 40 secs) and 40 secs break and it has been working great for me! The training routine he proposes has you hanging for only about 10% of the time and to me that sounds like a very time inefficient training routine. My training routine has me hanging 33% of the time, but is not pushing the limit of your hang ability as much.