Wow, very nice box and more over ,the way that you explain every step, something very important for someone like me, a total newbie related to CNC, and you're not rushing to explain the process. I Bought a Onefinity Jorneyman and I'm learning very slowly how to make Letter Piggy Banks for kids and Now I want to try doing boxes the way you do it. Please don't stop teaching . Thanks again.😁
@@johnearlclark I have Carbide Create to. I think you can use: Vectrix,Fusion 360,Mach 3? and some other programs. I have pushed mine at 300ipm feed rate 150 plunge,0.125 Depht per pass and 0.125 Stepover to do the Letter Piggy Banks but for the cut-out, I need to drop it to 200 Feed Rate and 100 plunge because is to aggressive.
Fantastic series of tutorials. They really helped me quite a bit. As a fan of D&D this was a great project. It was until the end that I realized that newer sets of dice are actually 7 piece sets. No biggie, I made a hexagon shape, divided into six pockets with an extra round one in the middle, like your video. The hexagon shape should make for a nice D20 vcarve top. It’s also nice to know that my skills with other vector based programs mean I just need to export as SVG and then create my toolpaths and all is good to go. Thanks for making these.
Thanks so much. I have not played in many years, so a couple of people pointed out the 7 piece set to me. :) Having vector skills is a big plus. I do a lot of things in Inkscape as well. I am really glad you got some use out of these.
John Clark well, that was the kicker for me. I hadn’t played in many years either, but got back into playing it recently online, where dice rolls are just a button click. So needless to say, I never noticed the new addition until recently either.
No reason not to sub for this channel. Thanks for these videos, very instructional. Just got my xxl about 3 weeks ago and still learning with the amount of time allotted. Thanks again.
i now realize how steep a learning curve I have to get a Shapeoko to give excellent results. A machine is only as good as the person inputting the information.
It's a lot to take in, but if you don't mind experimenting a bit, it can be a lot of fun to learn with. Each project teaches me a little bit more. I still have so many moments when I say "wait, I didn't know I could do that." Keep watching and I will keep trying to fill in the blanks.
Stunning John as a newbie I appreciate what you have shown what you can do I can't wait till I get my machine.but never the less just stunning to watch you do what your at.
Thank you very kindly for sharing these very important tid-bits with the Shapeoko 3 Community! Talking about thinking OUTSIDE the box! (LOL)... New Sub! TNX!...
I am a retired machinist (45 years ). I started out by punching IBM cards and paper tape. My last 25 years I had Mastercam to program a 3 axis milling machine. I wish this program could mirror & Fillet like Mastercam. I am studying CZcams examples of different CAD/CAM programs before I purchase a router.
The newer versions of Carbide Create allow you to fillet (Not sure how Mastercam implements this so it may be a little different). As far as mirroring goes, if you just mean flipping a design, then yes it will do that. Since it's a free program, my suggestion would be to download it and play around with it. Even without the CNC machine, it will give you a good feel for the setup. PS: My first program ever was written on punch cards. :)
John Ware thanks! I try to include as much of the conceptual approach as I can so folks with other software or machines can follow along. Glad this helps.
I am new to the Shapeoko and Carbide Motion, and so far your videos are VERY helpful for a noobie. However, now a days, a standard set of D&D dice is 7 die. There is a 10s multiplier which is #7. I finished watching the video before clicking comment. Your instructions are so informative. I am off to design the dice boxes for: My eldest (30) and her gang of D&D players, my youngest (26) and probably her gang of D&D players, and a friend's nephew (early teens) who is getting into D&D. Probably about 10 of em. And probably not a penny in my pocket for them. :( Maybe time to make some extras and post them on FB Market place.
Thanks for sharing! This got me amped to make some boxes. Just one suggestion, why not just flip the box upside down to vcarve the design before band sawing the tabs out? This way you wouldn't need the the circular jig w all of those clamps.
That will only work if your box is exactly centered in the stock. If you are slightly longer on one edge of your stock than the other, the design is offset. Even really small amounts are very noticeable on circular boxes. It’s a bit of extra work but well worth it.
Hi John, thanks for your videos and inspiration. I was going to send you a pic of the box I made based on this video, but having read your contact page I figured it wouldn't get past security😂. I've sent you a link to Instagram instead if you want to see my take on the box.
Why not just do a double sided cut using registration holes and pins on the original work piece.... It would save you all the trouble of re-registering the top for carving and it would also hold the round parts firmly without extra clamps. (fewer steps and perfect registration!)
Also a decent solution. However, I tend to cut my boxes and do some preliminary sanding in advance and only carve when I have an order for something. This way is easier for my process.
Thanks John , I have now spent the last couple hours searching for the way to get c2d files into carbide create... This is where people get discourged. Is there a somewhat easy way? I am obvisiouly new and just want to think I can make this xxl do something but so far is has sat idle.. I did you tube and searched carbide3d forum but didn't really get it... Its time for a break and a fresh start !!
Hi Greg. So sorry. This is one area where Carbide Create is a little annoying. For just about every program on the rest of the planet, double clicking on a file will open it in the program that created it. Carbide Create is a "special flower." Double clicking on a file will open Carbide Create, but it doesn't open the file itself (cue aggravation and swearing). To open the actual file, launch Carbide Create and choose Open at the top of the window, locate the file in the chooser window that appears, select it and click open.
I might have used the wrong terms for it by saying square tab. I think they are called finger joints where all the sides form together like if you were to fold your hands
Ah! Now I understand. Finger joints on CNC are a bit complicated. If you lay the piece flat and mill it, the bit ends up giving you a rounded inside corner (almost like a series of U U U U U shaped fingers). To get a real finger joint (shaped like this: |_| |_| |_| |_| |_| ) You have to clamp the board to the front of the machine. I have some thoughts on a jig for this. I will see what I can put together.
Thank You so much for these videos. I have made several small boxes and you have given a lot of great info in your videos. I plan to make some jigs and use the rapid position function. Great work. Where do you purchase your wood? Do you order on line or purchase locally? I made a box bottom from Curly Maple and it seemed like a "BEAR" to pocket out. Have you ever tried Curly Maple? I have saved your videos and will be looking at them quite a bit as you have a good understanding of Carbide Create. Thanks again.
Thanks so much Richard! Most of my wood comes from a local place called The Woodyard. They have an online presence at thewoodyard.com. Mostly I recommend making the trip to a local lumberyard that carries some exotics. A lot of what they consider “cut-offs” are perfectly useful to us. Maple and walnut usually need some extra clamping. Also tend to place clamps flat against the wastedboard around the edges to keep it from moving left/right or up/down. Hope this helps.
How did you know how deep the v-carve was going to be? You can calculate the the thickness of the lid easily, but without knowing the v-carve depth, the carving could cut through. You probably know from experience that you have enough lid thickness , but how is that calculated?
If you are using a 90 degree v-bit, the max depth will be half the distance between your two widest lines. 60 degree bit will be deeper. Does that make sense? Also newer versions of Carbide Create will let you set a max depth. This will make the machine simply skip anything that would be too deep.
@@johnearlclark thanks for answering this question. I had the same question because I’m working on engraved boxes right now. You have a great channel and thank you for all of the detailed videos
Thank you so much for this. I am an absolute newbie and have been able to create some nice boxes with your tutorials. I like some of the patterns you have created in your other videos. WHere can I find a good source for the patterns? Don't mind paying for them since my graphics ability is 0...... Just curious if you just a obtain a portion of the repetition pattern and fit it to the shape or just get the specific shapes on line. Got to get ready for xmas! Thanks
You can hunt for SVG files online (sometimes called vector files). I tend to search for something like "tribal svg" and see what comes back. Shutterstock and Etsy are also good places to look for files. Shutterstock tends to give you eps files, so sometimes they have to be converted (cloudconvert.com/eps-to-svg ). I also search by shape sometimes. If I have a circular box I will search for "circle svg" and see what comes back. Hope this helps.
It's called Padauk and it's one of my favorites. One thing to note about Padauk; if it gets left in direct sunlight it will turn brown. I tend to finish it in acrylic for a little extra UV protection and only use it for indoor things.
I have not used the XCarve equipment, but I have played with the software. There are tradeoffs: I think the Shapeoko software is more versatile, but the xCarve is a little more friendly. That said, I like the fact that the Shapeoko software is not part of the cloudy-cloud, so it's still useful if the Internet is down (thank you Comcast). As far as the hardware goes, the shapeoko is really beefy (bigger rails) and seems to be very sturdy. I am very happy with it.
Carbide understands flat end, ball end and v-bit. The shaft diameter does not matter, just the cutting portion of the bit. Most of the bowl cutting bits I have seen are an odd shape, in that they have curved edges and a flat bottom (like this one -- www.rockler.com/1-1-4-dish-carving-router-bit ). I would be temped to put them in as a flat end mill and just be aware that they will dish the edges. Also bits with bearing guides can cause problems, so they probably are not a good choice for CNC. Does that help?
Sadly, as an American, my brain was forced at an early age into the particular hell that is the imperial measurement system. I mostly try to stress the technique above all else, instead of building to a particular dimension. However, I will try to give a nod to both measurement systems when I can.
John, Great video. Newbe here. Trying to learn. Question, I see the finished dragon has some lines that start at the top one width and taper to a point at their end. This to me suggests that the tool has to raise in order to do this. How does the CNC know how to do this? Are those CNC commands part of the purchased dragon image or do you adjust the code to do that?
So this is what's called a v-carve. A v shaped bit is used to cut the design, which means it the bit cuts deeper in the wide parts and shallower at the skinny parts. The software handles all of the code for depth. You can get really precise edges with this kind of cut.
How much clearance for you recommend between the top lip and bottom? I tried a prototype and just flipping the lid results in it being too tight when you try to assemble the box.
I get them from Highland Hardware: www.highlandwoodworking.com/rareearthblockmagnets14pk10.aspx You might be able to find them cheaper somewhere else, but that's a good place to start.
Hey John great videos thanks for doing them. I have a question for you. I am paused at 19:56 and notice that you have the wood elevated above the waste board. Is there a reason for this?
Hi Scott. I usually keep a piece of cardboard or 1/4 MDF under the work piece to keep the bit from going down through to the waste board when I cut out the box. It just limits some of the wear and tear on the waste board so I don't need to replace it or resurface it as often.
Hi Greg! The dice box file is here: www.dropbox.com/s/zvimrmou5fc6ay4/DiceBox.c2d.zip?dl=0 The carving on the top was a ShutterStock purchase, so I can't share that one. If you want to purchase your own copy, you can find it here: www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/celtic-dragon-wings-tattoo-231311164
John, I love your videos on boxes!! You have inspired me greatly. I especially love this last one because my son is VERY MUCH into Dragons and I want to know where did you find that fantastic Dragon for Vcarving!!?? I have looked on Shutter Stock but am unable to find that one!! My son wants me now to make him a box with that exact dragon on it!! Can you please send me the link to the picture or, the picture itself?? Thank you!!
I am happy to share any of the non-copyrighted things. For example the Carbide create files for the lizard box are here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 Sometimes the image files for the pattern on the box top are copyrighted, and I just tend to link to those. Please note you will need to make some adjustments in the file to match the size and thickness of your stock.
Hey brother, thank you for sharing this. I also have a shapeoko XXL. I'm having issues with squaring my machine though..Cant cut decent circles either...There's always two small spots opposite of each other on circles that are definitely straight and not curved as they should be. Any advice?
Hi Jeremy. The first thing I like to check is the tightness of the wheels on the z-axis. If you put a couple of fingers around the collet on the router and pull/push does it move back and forth even a little? Usually this means you need to tighten the wheels that sit behind the router plate. If they are not firmly on the track, the router wiggles when it cuts. Also check belt tightness and make sure you don't hear it slipping (usually a chunk-chunk-chunk sound). Given that you have two spots opposite, I suspect the wheels first. Hope this helps.
hi, im curious, would the cnc be able to engrave on a domed surface with a flat bottom, as long as it is emerged inside a box for the xyz axis reading ? thank you very much
Hmmm... It really kind of depends on what you are looking for. The basic Carbide Create understands top and bottom, but it would not follow the slope of the dome (ie. going further down as it gets closer to the edge). Carbide Create Pro understands a 3D surface, but the other thing to consider is that, on a traditional CNC machine, the bit is always coming straight down, so getting a consistent depth on something like text would be tricky. You would need a true 3D axis milling machine to keep the bit 90 degrees relative to the domed surface. Does that make sense?
John, I have tried to locate your files you put on the User Group on FB. I have scrolled down for over two hours now, and have only made it to one week ago! Is there any way of posting your links here in your comments above where we can receive these from? Thanks in advance! It just seems that if you sneeze, you can get lost in FB now-a-days. It sure was much nicer a few years back. Great video series! Thanks for your time well spent.
Michael David Hiltner hey. It looks like you found them on the Facebook group already. They should be at: I have posted the Carbide Create files here: www.dropbox.com/s/464m98j8d4hjgy0/Carbide%20Create%20Files.zip?dl=0 Let me know if that link still works for you or if you have any questions.
I tend to go with the default feeds and speeds for the most part. The bit is an Amana 46202-K SC Spektra 1/4 inch bit I got from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J4CPQT The trick for wood is to use a downcut bit. This pushes the wood down as it cuts and prevents a lot of splintering. Most of the bits Carbide Create sells are upcut bits. These are great for clearing chips on things like aluminum, but they tend to splinter wood.
This might be a great comment but it appears to come from someone who doesn't make anything. Seriously, how sad is your life that leaving a negative comment on a 4 year old video gives you an endorphin rush?
based on your very defensive response to constructive criticism I’m gonna guess it probably was not great content because you can’t teach someone who knows everything, but I’ll never know because the audio was so bad. A friendly, “this is an old video, check out my new stuff” would have served you much better but you chose a person attack instead. Thank goodness I had endorphins to get me through! It would have been really nasty for a CZcamsr to attack me for constructive criticism if I didn’t have those endorphins because my life is so sad.
After sending that message I realized it was passive aggressive and unnecessary because whatever is going on in your life that makes you lash out at people giving constructive criticism has nothing to do with me. I apologize. My initial comment was sincere. I started watching your video because it looked like something I wanted to know. I quit watching the video because I couldn’t handle the sound but CZcams will not tell you why you’re losing views so I did.
Wow, very nice box and more over ,the way that you explain every step, something very important for someone like me, a total newbie related to CNC, and you're not rushing to explain the process. I Bought a Onefinity Jorneyman and I'm learning very slowly how to make Letter Piggy Banks for kids and Now I want to try doing boxes the way you do it. Please don't stop teaching . Thanks again.😁
Thanks so much for the encouragement. How do you like the Onefinity Journeyman? What kind of design/controller software does it use?
@@johnearlclark I have Carbide Create to. I think you can use: Vectrix,Fusion 360,Mach 3? and some other programs. I have pushed mine at 300ipm feed rate 150 plunge,0.125 Depht per pass and 0.125 Stepover to do the Letter Piggy Banks but for the cut-out, I need to drop it to 200 Feed Rate and 100 plunge because is to aggressive.
You have great skills and you are an excellent instructor. Thanks.
Thank you so much!
Honestly you are almost the only one that with the detail and easy explaining I’m capable to learn I thank you very much
Very well done tutorial. I’ve learned a lot from the series. Thank you very much!
Fantastic series of tutorials. They really helped me quite a bit. As a fan of D&D this was a great project. It was until the end that I realized that newer sets of dice are actually 7 piece sets. No biggie, I made a hexagon shape, divided into six pockets with an extra round one in the middle, like your video. The hexagon shape should make for a nice D20 vcarve top. It’s also nice to know that my skills with other vector based programs mean I just need to export as SVG and then create my toolpaths and all is good to go. Thanks for making these.
Thanks so much. I have not played in many years, so a couple of people pointed out the 7 piece set to me. :) Having vector skills is a big plus. I do a lot of things in Inkscape as well. I am really glad you got some use out of these.
John Clark well, that was the kicker for me. I hadn’t played in many years either, but got back into playing it recently online, where dice rolls are just a button click. So needless to say, I never noticed the new addition until recently either.
No reason not to sub for this channel. Thanks for these videos, very instructional. Just got my xxl about 3 weeks ago and still learning with the amount of time allotted. Thanks again.
i now realize how steep a learning curve I have to get a Shapeoko to give excellent results. A machine is only as good as the person inputting the information.
It's a lot to take in, but if you don't mind experimenting a bit, it can be a lot of fun to learn with. Each project teaches me a little bit more. I still have so many moments when I say "wait, I didn't know I could do that." Keep watching and I will keep trying to fill in the blanks.
thanks so much for walking thru these steps on CC! I am a new SO3 owner and this has helped me tremendously!
Stunning John as a newbie I appreciate what you have shown what you can do I can't wait till I get my machine.but never the less just stunning to watch you do what your at.
Thanks so much. I am working on a series for beginning users. Stay tuned.
Thank you very kindly for sharing these very important tid-bits with the Shapeoko 3 Community! Talking about thinking OUTSIDE the box! (LOL)... New Sub! TNX!...
great series on boxes... thank you. easy to follow and learn from
Thanks for this video! Great job as always!
What 60 degree v-bit are you using.
Another great video John, thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing how to do these and for taking us step by step. I am new and it is very helpful.
Thanks again,Always look forward to your videos,so easy to learn and follow along :)
Thanks so much!
Nice work!
I am a retired machinist (45 years ). I started out by punching IBM cards and paper tape. My last 25 years I had Mastercam to program a 3 axis milling machine. I wish this program could mirror & Fillet like Mastercam. I am studying CZcams examples of different CAD/CAM programs before I purchase a router.
The newer versions of Carbide Create allow you to fillet (Not sure how Mastercam implements this so it may be a little different). As far as mirroring goes, if you just mean flipping a design, then yes it will do that. Since it's a free program, my suggestion would be to download it and play around with it. Even without the CNC machine, it will give you a good feel for the setup. PS: My first program ever was written on punch cards. :)
Great content, can't wait to have the time to try and make my own, Christmas presents maybe....
CNC is definitely good for Christmas gifts. :)
Boxes are awesome! They will always sell and are great gifts ! Can’t have too many boxes
Thanks, awesome explanation.
These videos are so helpful. Thank you!
That dragon looks awesome. I reckon a nice epoxy infill would set it off.
Nice series on boxes there.. I run a total home brew using mach 3 and V-carve.. The setup is different but the whole concept is the same... :)
John Ware thanks! I try to include as much of the conceptual approach as I can so folks with other software or machines can follow along. Glad this helps.
Thank you for the tutorial. Well done.
Amazing box!
VERY INTERESTING KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
I am new to the Shapeoko and Carbide Motion, and so far your videos are VERY helpful for a noobie. However, now a days, a standard set of D&D dice is 7 die. There is a 10s multiplier which is #7.
I finished watching the video before clicking comment.
Your instructions are so informative. I am off to design the dice boxes for: My eldest (30) and her gang of D&D players, my youngest (26) and probably her gang of D&D players, and a friend's nephew (early teens) who is getting into D&D. Probably about 10 of em. And probably not a penny in my pocket for them. :( Maybe time to make some extras and post them on FB Market place.
Cool series John. Thanks for sharing but now I have an itch to scratch 😉
great tutorials, thank you
Thanks for sharing! This got me amped to make some boxes. Just one suggestion, why not just flip the box upside down to vcarve the design before band sawing the tabs out? This way you wouldn't need the the circular jig w all of those clamps.
That will only work if your box is exactly centered in the stock. If you are slightly longer on one edge of your stock than the other, the design is offset. Even really small amounts are very noticeable on circular boxes. It’s a bit of extra work but well worth it.
Hi John, thanks for your videos and inspiration. I was going to send you a pic of the box I made based on this video, but having read your contact page I figured it wouldn't get past security😂. I've sent you a link to Instagram instead if you want to see my take on the box.
Great work Rob! Always glad to see what everyone comes up with.
Why not just do a double sided cut using registration holes and pins on the original work piece....
It would save you all the trouble of re-registering the top for carving and it would also hold the round parts firmly without extra clamps. (fewer steps and perfect registration!)
Also a decent solution. However, I tend to cut my boxes and do some preliminary sanding in advance and only carve when I have an order for something. This way is easier for my process.
Your videos come with very good explanation. Can you mention how did you do the sculpted walnut top that you have at the start of the video?
Thanks John , I have now spent the last couple hours searching for the way to get c2d files into carbide create... This is where people get discourged. Is there a somewhat easy way? I am obvisiouly new and just want to think I can make this xxl do something but so far is has sat idle.. I did you tube and searched carbide3d forum but didn't really get it... Its time for a break and a fresh start !!
Hi Greg. So sorry. This is one area where Carbide Create is a little annoying. For just about every program on the rest of the planet, double clicking on a file will open it in the program that created it. Carbide Create is a "special flower." Double clicking on a file will open Carbide Create, but it doesn't open the file itself (cue aggravation and swearing). To open the actual file, launch Carbide Create and choose Open at the top of the window, locate the file in the chooser window that appears, select it and click open.
could you make a video showing how to design a square tab box with carbide create. Similar to the function on the v carve pro software
Hi Joseph. Can you give me an idea of what you mean by a square tab box? I am not familiar enough with v-carve pro.
I might have used the wrong terms for it by saying square tab. I think they are called finger joints where all the sides form together like if you were to fold your hands
Ah! Now I understand. Finger joints on CNC are a bit complicated. If you lay the piece flat and mill it, the bit ends up giving you a rounded inside corner (almost like a series of U U U U U shaped fingers). To get a real finger joint (shaped like this: |_| |_| |_| |_| |_| ) You have to clamp the board to the front of the machine. I have some thoughts on a jig for this. I will see what I can put together.
Looks like simply shaking the box would cause the contents to jump over the compartment walls.
Thank You so much for these videos. I have made several small boxes and you have given a lot of great info in your videos. I plan to make some jigs and use the rapid
position function. Great work.
Where do you purchase your wood? Do you order on line or purchase locally? I made a box bottom from Curly Maple and it seemed like a "BEAR" to pocket out. Have you ever tried Curly
Maple?
I have saved your videos and will be looking at them quite a bit as you have a good understanding of Carbide Create.
Thanks again.
Thanks so much Richard! Most of my wood comes from a local place called The Woodyard. They have an online presence at thewoodyard.com. Mostly I recommend making the trip to a local lumberyard that carries some exotics. A lot of what they consider “cut-offs” are perfectly useful to us. Maple and walnut usually need some extra clamping. Also tend to place clamps flat against the wastedboard around the edges to keep it from moving left/right or up/down. Hope this helps.
How did you know how deep the v-carve was going to be? You can calculate the the thickness of the lid easily, but without knowing the v-carve depth, the carving could cut through. You probably know from experience that you have enough lid thickness , but how is that calculated?
If you are using a 90 degree v-bit, the max depth will be half the distance between your two widest lines. 60 degree bit will be deeper. Does that make sense? Also newer versions of Carbide Create will let you set a max depth. This will make the machine simply skip anything that would be too deep.
@@johnearlclark thanks for answering this question. I had the same question because I’m working on engraved boxes right now. You have a great channel and thank you for all of the detailed videos
Thank you so much for this. I am an absolute newbie and have been able to create some nice boxes with your tutorials. I like some of the patterns you have created in your other videos. WHere can I find a good source for the patterns? Don't mind paying for them since my graphics ability is 0...... Just curious if you just a obtain a portion of the repetition pattern and fit it to the shape or just get the specific shapes on line. Got to get ready for xmas! Thanks
You can hunt for SVG files online (sometimes called vector files). I tend to search for something like "tribal svg" and see what comes back. Shutterstock and Etsy are also good places to look for files. Shutterstock tends to give you eps files, so sometimes they have to be converted (cloudconvert.com/eps-to-svg ). I also search by shape sometimes. If I have a circular box I will search for "circle svg" and see what comes back. Hope this helps.
What wood is that? It's very pretty.
It's called Padauk and it's one of my favorites. One thing to note about Padauk; if it gets left in direct sunlight it will turn brown. I tend to finish it in acrylic for a little extra UV protection and only use it for indoor things.
Hi John, great stuff! Subbed! Getting ready to buy a CNC...do you recommend Shapeoko an it’s software over XCarve? Thanks
I have not used the XCarve equipment, but I have played with the software. There are tradeoffs: I think the Shapeoko software is more versatile, but the xCarve is a little more friendly. That said, I like the fact that the Shapeoko software is not part of the cloudy-cloud, so it's still useful if the Internet is down (thank you Comcast). As far as the hardware goes, the shapeoko is really beefy (bigger rails) and seems to be very sturdy. I am very happy with it.
Thanks for the videos! When I make the boxes they are super tight. Did I miss something? Is there an offset? Thanks in advance.
I have two bowl and tray bits. 1/8 radius 7/16 diameter and 1/4 radius 3/4 cutting diameter. How would you put these into your tool database?
Carbide understands flat end, ball end and v-bit. The shaft diameter does not matter, just the cutting portion of the bit. Most of the bowl cutting bits I have seen are an odd shape, in that they have curved edges and a flat bottom (like this one -- www.rockler.com/1-1-4-dish-carving-router-bit ). I would be temped to put them in as a flat end mill and just be aware that they will dish the edges. Also bits with bearing guides can cause problems, so they probably are not a good choice for CNC. Does that help?
it would have been nice if you had added metric as well, just a thought
Sadly, as an American, my brain was forced at an early age into the particular hell that is the imperial measurement system. I mostly try to stress the technique above all else, instead of building to a particular dimension. However, I will try to give a nod to both measurement systems when I can.
@@johnearlclark it must be hell working with this system, thank you, all the best
@@atmm89 Seriously, 10 fingers... 10 toes... you would think someone would say "hmmm, let's make this easy on ourselves," but no. :)
John, Great video. Newbe here. Trying to learn. Question, I see the finished dragon has some lines that start at the top one width and taper to a point at their end. This to me suggests that the tool has to raise in order to do this. How does the CNC know how to do this? Are those CNC commands part of the purchased dragon image or do you adjust the code to do that?
So this is what's called a v-carve. A v shaped bit is used to cut the design, which means it the bit cuts deeper in the wide parts and shallower at the skinny parts. The software handles all of the code for depth. You can get really precise edges with this kind of cut.
How much clearance for you recommend between the top lip and bottom? I tried a prototype and just flipping the lid results in it being too tight when you try to assemble the box.
I usually go about .003 smaller on the inner lip. Your mileage may vary. :)
John, Do you have a resource for the little magnets? Thanks
I get them from Highland Hardware: www.highlandwoodworking.com/rareearthblockmagnets14pk10.aspx You might be able to find them cheaper somewhere else, but that's a good place to start.
Hey John great videos thanks for doing them. I have a question for you. I am paused at 19:56 and notice that you have the wood elevated above the waste board. Is there a reason for this?
Well I watched it and it looks like you have a 1/4" piece of MDF under. Probably to save the waste board. Answered my own question. THANKS
Hi Scott. I usually keep a piece of cardboard or 1/4 MDF under the work piece to keep the bit from going down through to the waste board when I cut out the box. It just limits some of the wear and tear on the waste board so I don't need to replace it or resurface it as often.
Hay John would you be willing to share the file for the 5 space box? Nice job and Thanks.
Hi Greg! The dice box file is here: www.dropbox.com/s/zvimrmou5fc6ay4/DiceBox.c2d.zip?dl=0 The carving on the top was a ShutterStock purchase, so I can't share that one. If you want to purchase your own copy, you can find it here: www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/celtic-dragon-wings-tattoo-231311164
John, I love your videos on boxes!! You have inspired me greatly. I especially love this last one because my son is VERY MUCH into Dragons and I want to know where did you find that fantastic Dragon for Vcarving!!?? I have looked on Shutter Stock but am unable to find that one!! My son wants me now to make him a box with that exact dragon on it!! Can you please send me the link to the picture or, the picture itself?? Thank you!!
Glad you enjoy the videos. I think this one is what you are looking for: www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/celtic-dragon-wings-tattoo-231311164
Hi John,
Loved your videos, do you also share project code?
I am happy to share any of the non-copyrighted things. For example the Carbide create files for the lizard box are here: www.dropbox.com/s/783ut9gzlp6s7u1/Lizard%20Box.zip?dl=0 Sometimes the image files for the pattern on the box top are copyrighted, and I just tend to link to those. Please note you will need to make some adjustments in the file to match the size and thickness of your stock.
Hey brother, thank you for sharing this. I also have a shapeoko XXL. I'm having issues with squaring my machine though..Cant cut decent circles either...There's always two small spots opposite of each other on circles that are definitely straight and not curved as they should be. Any advice?
Hi Jeremy. The first thing I like to check is the tightness of the wheels on the z-axis. If you put a couple of fingers around the collet on the router and pull/push does it move back and forth even a little? Usually this means you need to tighten the wheels that sit behind the router plate. If they are not firmly on the track, the router wiggles when it cuts. Also check belt tightness and make sure you don't hear it slipping (usually a chunk-chunk-chunk sound). Given that you have two spots opposite, I suspect the wheels first. Hope this helps.
@@johnearlclark Thank you sir! I will do some close inspection when I get home from the day job today. I appreciate your input!
hi, im curious, would the cnc be able to engrave on a domed surface with a flat bottom, as long as it is emerged inside a box for the xyz axis reading ? thank you very much
Hmmm... It really kind of depends on what you are looking for. The basic Carbide Create understands top and bottom, but it would not follow the slope of the dome (ie. going further down as it gets closer to the edge). Carbide Create Pro understands a 3D surface, but the other thing to consider is that, on a traditional CNC machine, the bit is always coming straight down, so getting a consistent depth on something like text would be tricky. You would need a true 3D axis milling machine to keep the bit 90 degrees relative to the domed surface. Does that make sense?
@@johnearlclark ok perfect that makes sense , thank you so much, your videos are so helpful :) I just got the shapeoko 3 standard,
Beautiful ! What kind of wood is that ?
Thank you! I believe it's Padauk (possibly Redheart).
John, I have tried to locate your files you put on the User Group on FB. I have scrolled down for over two hours now, and have only made it to one week ago! Is there any way of posting your links here in your comments above where we can receive these from? Thanks in advance!
It just seems that if you sneeze, you can get lost in FB now-a-days. It sure was much nicer a few years back.
Great video series! Thanks for your time well spent.
Michael David Hiltner hey. It looks like you found them on the Facebook group already. They should be at: I have posted the Carbide Create files here: www.dropbox.com/s/464m98j8d4hjgy0/Carbide%20Create%20Files.zip?dl=0 Let me know if that link still works for you or if you have any questions.
Michael David
.QQ1
Could you tell us what brand of bit and RPM you're running to get those nice, clean cuts?
I tend to go with the default feeds and speeds for the most part. The bit is an Amana 46202-K SC Spektra 1/4 inch bit I got from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J4CPQT The trick for wood is to use a downcut bit. This pushes the wood down as it cuts and prevents a lot of splintering. Most of the bits Carbide Create sells are upcut bits. These are great for clearing chips on things like aluminum, but they tend to splinter wood.
Once again, extremely helpful. Thank you very much. Please keep posting videos. I have learned a ton from your work.
This might be great content but why does it sound like your mic is inside the mouse? I couldn’t take it.
This might be a great comment but it appears to come from someone who doesn't make anything. Seriously, how sad is your life that leaving a negative comment on a 4 year old video gives you an endorphin rush?
based on your very defensive response to constructive criticism I’m gonna guess it probably was not great content because you can’t teach someone who knows everything, but I’ll never know because the audio was so bad. A friendly, “this is an old video, check out my new stuff” would have served you much better but you chose a person attack instead. Thank goodness I had endorphins to get me through! It would have been really nasty for a CZcamsr to attack me for constructive criticism if I didn’t have those endorphins because my life is so sad.
After sending that message I realized it was passive aggressive and unnecessary because whatever is going on in your life that makes you lash out at people giving constructive criticism has nothing to do with me. I apologize. My initial comment was sincere. I started watching your video because it looked like something I wanted to know. I quit watching the video because I couldn’t handle the sound but CZcams will not tell you why you’re losing views so I did.