Regency Shirt Tutorial
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this video I explore my first Regency era content with a simple (not really) shirt! For those of you who have made 16th century, Elizabethan style shirts, this style is similar but different in some key ways. There are gussets in the neck which aren't present in most 17th century shirts. There is a large amount of top stitching which isn't often seen in the Early Modern Era. Meant to be worn as an undergarment with a waistcoat and cravat on top, this style of "pirate shirt" (total misnomer) is common throughout the 18th and early 19th century. The collar and cuff details change slowly over time, but in the end, it is miles of linen fabric, lots of linen stitching and even some small thread buttons made of, you guessed it, LINEN! I hope you'll enjoy this foray into new territory for me. I plan to start looking at menswear of all kinds in many eras. There is simply not enough content about making menswear and doing it well.
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My hand-stitches look like they were made by a drunk fisherman’s wife with poor eyesight, so I’m going to give myself 10/10 on historical accuracy. Also, you look very handsome! I wish this style would come back in. Excellent video, sir.
Fantastic!! I've now a shirt of my own which cost no more than $12 with the help of this video! A note for others who might endeavor to follow this pattern: I being a woman of a smaller frame have discovered that some adjustments needed to be made in the process of measuring and cutting. I found specifically that the cut of the collar, cuffs, and in my case sleeves also, needed particular attention.
I'll try to put this as simply as possible, that by using the chest measurement as a base for understanding the proportions of the rest of the garment led to some proportional inconsistencies. One can imagine, on a much larger chested man, the collars and cuffs would become much larger and on a smaller chested one, they would become much smaller. This was exactly my issue.
For anyone who may see this, *I urge them to take notice especially of the shoulder stay* and where it lies from the base of the neck to off the shoulder. A great number of troubles I would have saved myself if I were not too eager, and had double-checked to see not if my equations were accurate, but that my measurements were accurate to how I wanted the garment to fit.
Overall though, as a beginner, I highly recommend this pattern, it having me taken two days hand-sewn! Many thanks to Mathew, who has started me on my journey to sewing more regency wear. :)
As much as I love 16th &17th century menswear, Regency era is my next love. Thanks for this. Looking forward to your videos on this era
Excellent! I plan on doing a whole outfit from the skin out. This is phase 1. Next up, the under-britches...aka drawers.
Wow this tutorial is fantastic! Im so glad to have found one of the few youtubers doing masculine historical clothes.
Actually there are many men who are interested in historical clothings but they just dont have skills in video recordings / editings nor a location to film.
The “Regency” male figure is usually depicted as as slender, for some reason - but you make this style look imposing (yet restrained). The fabric/pattern of the waistcoat is really beautiful- again splendid but dignified.
Thank you for this video. The shirt looks great! I'm a woman, but have been wanting to make an 18th century men's shirt for myself for a while. Thank you for the excellent tips!
My pleasure!
I just made my first 18th century shift and then “pirate shirt” all by hand. I’m loving the process! I REALLY enjoyed your Regency shirt. I’m getting myself revved up to try a whole outfit for my (adult) son. Your video is the first step in that direction. Thanks!
Thank you! There's definitely a dearth of tutorials and info on how to make period-accurate regency menswear, so this is awesome.
Wonderful! I have been focusing so much on just serving the Early Modern period that I truly didn't realize how little there was on menswear out there. I have a renewed drive to fill that void!
I HAVE WATCHED SEVERAL TUTORIALS AND YOURS IS THE ABSOLUTE CLEAREST AND MOST FUNCTIONAL…THANK YOU..
When someone asks me the difference between hand & machine sewing, I pull up this video. Mathew does such a great job of showing all of the little gathers and turns that can be made by hand- that could never be done the same way on a machine.
I learned so much about hand sewing from his videos!
First of all, you look great, chins and all, and second, I deeply appreciate anything about clothing from the perspective of a man who isn't built like a baby deer. There's only so much one can learn from a tailor who's never had to let out a pair of pants. Thirdly, I've been sewing for HOW long and never knew to wrap the seam allowances in like at 22:30 when finishing a cuff?? this may change my life
3 different shows of 3 women who makes like this call Elizabethan shirt and pirates shirt and I love it, I want make like this but I like ruffle neck. It’s all shirts are so pretty.
But your shoulder are double, I think I will do double and ruffle neck and Sam blouse.
That buttonhole bar trick is genius!
We've all been eating our feelings. You look amazing in this outfit. Another great video!
Thank you!
You look Great! Excellent job!...i taught my son to sew, cook, clean, can, garden, & even iron cos women these days don't do domestic much if at all. Like you, he is also excellent at these things & even enjoys them. lucky for him cos his wife does Not do any of them..he has to do it all, along with raising 3 kids, Plus work as a truck driver..but.she makes him happy & that is what matters, so..anyway.Thanks for sharing this! i'm gonna make one for him as a surprise.
You look fab!!
This was amazing. Bernadette Banner and her "pirate shirt"
Beautifully made. Thanks. X
Love the shirt. Thank you for showing how to make a button.
My pleasure! Love those little buttons!
I love the buttons
Just found your channel, mentioned by minjalinjee. And YES! All the men's historical tailoring, please!
You look very handsome in that shirt and waistcoat, which is stunning btw.
thank you so much for that little bit about the side-seam gussets. i’ve been using a combination of tutorials for my shirt, but at some point you just need to see someone else do it before it makes sense
This is an EXCELLENT tutorial! Thank you for your hard work here, MG.
Thank you for this video, I am about to make a shirt and your hints have saved me a lot of head-scratching
My pleasure!
Fantastic tutorial! I'm shocked you don't have more followers!
Thank you! It turned out beautiful, and you look very elegant! I can’t wait to try to make one!
Thank you so much! It is one of the glorious things about the Regency period -- even if you dress sloppy for the period, you still look elegant!
What an excellent video! I have made regency era shirts before and, honestly, they are one of my favorite things to make, however, you have some tips in the video that I have never seen before anywhere. I agree with the other comments that there is so much content for women’s clothing out there but not as much for men’s. So glad you were here to help change that! I will be watching!
Oh thank you for saying so! Most of the things I do differently have to do with process rather than the actual stitching. I think a century and a half of machine sewn processes has led to a lot of unhelpful orders of operations that slow down hand sewing!
Oh wow, you and your outfit are awesome 😍
Thank you, Petra!!
Thank you for this tutorial and hope you still view comments. I really enjoyed and understood your instructions. Questions, where can I* find similar fabric to also make the waistcoat? Thanks much!
I designed that fabric myself. It is a heavy linen, printed by a company called Spoonflower. www.spoonflower.com/profiles/m__gnagy_design
1st off yay.. someone making period men's clothes (it's a rare thing on CZcams).
2nd hand sewing and my phalanges don't get along. So how does one make the shirt on a modern day machine 🤔
There are a lot of videos here on youtube about constructing this very shirt, and in preparation for making my own I have watched almost all of them. This one is the best, I love it! Not only is it extremely clear and informative, but I found it to be really relaxing to watch, your energy is so calming. Thank you for making such a nice video for us all to enjoy, I look forward to watching the rest of the videos on your channel and seeing more from you in the future! :)
THANK YOU! I have been having a big slump in making videos recently and it is good to know that people are finding value in what I've done!
Wonderful outfit. You are looking great 😊👏👏 beautifully done.
I am norwegian. I am not sure if you are familiar with the local customs: BUNAD, from all over Norway.
Nevertheless, I made my white, linen shirt with embroidery on the neck front, the collar and the cuffs and put it all together. I was to gave gussets like you have here. And watching you making this, kind of sets me back to my work. I did use a sewing machine, but I would gladly make one like you did here.
As I said: Beautifully craftsmanship 👏👏👏 people not sewing like this, do not have a clue of the patience, skill and interest you need to preforming this. Good work 😊
Ja Absolut! I am quite Familiar with Norwegian and Swedish Bunad and Dräkt traditions although not yet expert. I have dear friends who ARE experts and we talk about the traditions constantly. I am fascinated and one day, I plan to join my partner in Sweden and I will go even deeper into it. I have a jacket that I am making which is based on a Norwegian Green jacket with embroidery. I have examined a few very old pieces of Bunad because they are made with some very interesting old techniques. Those traditions have fueled my interest in clothing, knitting, making, weaving and sewing since I was a boy in middle of nowhere in the US.
Oh my! I did not know you're on youtube! Sir, you look dashing!
Thank you! I started a few years ago but kept all my videos private. I just opened them to the public a few months ago. Glad you found me!
Thank you so much for this! I'm very excited for this series, because, as you say, there is a great deal of content online for women's clothing of many time periods, but very little for menswear. Your videos on doublet making have for the first time interested me in 17th century menswear (I've never liked the poofy-hipped silhouette with the trunk hose, but the tailoring on the doublets looks both fun and flattering...and those breeches do look super comfy...), and now that you're doing Regency-specific clothes, I am tempted to buy every book you've written whether I'll use them or not, just to encourage-and, in a small way, fund-your continued work. I'll probably start with a subscription to your website, though ;).
Thank you so much! Your kind words are the best support I could ask for...regency is just the beginning. The void of menswear is so vast, I could spend the rest of my live making content for it and never reach the end!
Loved the video. It's been years since I sewed, so a closeup of the various stitches would be helpful. You rocked the waistcoat! Thank you.
There is a playlist on my channel that has closeups of the majority of stitches that are used. The scale in those videos is slightly larger than what is used in this tutorial so the results are easier to see and understand.
I just spent a weekend dressing in Regency menswear and I'm hooked. Going to try to make some more shirts myself, because buying a custom one is pricey!
Very nice video! I particularly found the neck and shirt tail gussets installation useful. Thanks!
I love tedious, tedious stitching. Beatiful work. Thank you for sharing your passion with us.
Excellent video! Thank you for sharing
L’ensemble vous va à merveille. Très jolie avec la veste et la cravate. 😍
Subscribed! I know what you mean about the breeches and neck holding the weight in. I’ve gained covid weight too. You’re not the only one. The costs feel great too with their heavy weight and long length. I hope I can get some items or make some someday.
Thank you for the great tutorial, and you DO look great!
Gorgeous! I love the fabric of the waistcoat. That shirt looks so comfortable and just amazing. I am practicing that button making technique. Thank you for your time.looking forward to the future videos
The silhouette is so flattering! I love the sleeves as well💙💕
Waw~~ you make even buttons!!
I will watch your video again and again.
Your working is so beautiful that I am impressed fully.
Love the shirt ! Would like to make one but it does look "complicated". Thank you :-)
Great video, I'm so excited for the rest of the series! I would love to know (1) what weight linen you are using (bonus points for recommending a good source), and if you are sewing with linen thread, or waxed cotton, or what! (seems like you say linen thread for the button hole, so I assume its the same for the rest of the shirt?
If you want to be period-accurate with your sewing, it's lightly waxed linen thread you should use. I buy linen lace-making thread; it comes in a variety of gauges and is tightly spun. Just run your length of thread a couple of times across a lump of beeswax before sewing, or it will fray and break very quickly.
I've found that lace making linen thread has more slubs and breaks too easily. I tend to go for linen that is meant for weaving as it is still as fine as the lace thread but much stronger with fewer slubs. That means it breaks far less and like better in the long run. Lace making doesn't have as much friction while it's being used which is why they can get away with more slubs. Wax does help but using the weaving thread works better. Weaving tends to have more tension so it has to be stronger.
@@GrendalGornych Really? You must have really bad lace-making thread where you live. The one I use is strong, smooth and even. Huh. Thanks for letting me know that all lace-making thread is not equal in all parts of the world.
@@aprillen I've gotten my threads from all over the world (because I also do lace.) Unless your lace thread is pretty thick (thicker than I like to use for sewing), it tends to be slubby and weak, especially as you get down to the finest. This isn't a "where you live" problem. It's the difference between lace making thread in general (when fine) and thread meant for weaving (which I also do.)
@@junerussell6972 You are making a lot of assumptions about the threads I use without even having seen them, let alone used them. I have ceded the point that all threads may not be equal, and that they perhaps cannot be universally recommended. Why do you feel the need to insist that I am utterly wrong?
Wonderful video. I dont think you need to talk down your sewing. A Regency tailor would have started sewing as a young boy, spending hours a day practicing, and as you say, tedious, tedious, tedious! That as an adult you have learned to do so is remarkable and noteworthy.
Yes, you do look good\very smart in your perfectly made shirt and waistcoat. I have always liked doing small whip stitching and buttonhole stitches (don’t ask why because I don’t know….. but might be something to do with my Domestic Study teacher who taught me and who I loved and would have sat all day in snow, whip stitch something for her). Also I grew up with my mother who came from a life of domestic service and had learned stitching from her own mother so when she was thrust into this world of Domestic Torture she had something that she was ‘good’ at. Mum was an absolute GENIUS in the home she created for my father and his 3 children and then ME:). Recently I took out some precious pieces of sewing that she stitched, dad would draw the design and she would embroider. Lovely. Really, I thought your stitching was excellent and your shirt very well made indeed.
Matthew, where have you been all my life? Or at least for the covid era when I really got into european historical clothing? I am absolutely in love with the button making that you have just shown. My playlist for today is full but I will definitely write you some love letters after exploring your channel more.
you look absolutely amazing, no matter the clothing. while I understand that one stranger's opinion will not fix your body issues (hey, I have similar ones), I am giving you 11/10 Mr. Darcys. Is that a beauty measurement unit? No, but it should be. You are excellently boiled potatoes.
You look great. Do not worry about your looks
Amazing work!
It was so much fun to watch the shirt come together. And you look great in this look!
Thank you so much. I'm beginning to think that no matter the person, everyone can look good in this era of clothing!
Thanks for bringing us along on this adventure. You look very Beau Brummell-ish🤗
Was the shoulder/sleeve facing a 19th century development?
The shoulder reinforcement appears to be an 18th century development and continues throughout the century and into the 19th...all the way until the construction of shirts takes left turn in the 1850s.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 thank you!
THANK YOU SO MUCH, I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THE NAME, ERA OR JUST LIKE ANY INFO ABOUT THESE TYPE OF CLOTHING FOR YEARS
I've just started watching your channel so this isn't the change of pace for me that it is for your long time subscribers. I'm looking forward to going back to see some older stuff. I love Regency clothes but I don't quite have courage to wear them so I dress more Edwardian, generally. I've been sewing for decades but I'm just now getting into hand sewing and this was helpful. I wish you had shown more of the shoulder gusset. I watched it twice and still can't see exactly how it goes in. Really great video, though. You probably already know that many Regency era men wore stays (corsets) to maintain a trim figure under those tight waistcoats but, really you look just fine the way you are! (After I typed all of this, I just realized that YT recommended a two year old video. I thought it was new.)
Well done and thank you.
That shirt looks amazing. I will find the fabric and make one for myself. Thank you so much. ❤
It looks so comfortable. Wonderful.
so excited about this tutorial! and in general glad i found your channel, excited to look through more of your videos. the neck slit has the button hole stitch reinforcement and the side slits have the butterfly things, but how are the slits in the wrist reinforced?
Just several tight stitches in one place to really lock it in. I've used a bar tack as well in the past.
Thank you for the very detailed tutorial - so helpful. Welcome to the Regency Period!
So much to learn, I will need to watch this twice. Thank you
Birdy
I just finished a muslin version of this shirt. It fits quite well. I particularly love the sleeves when I wear the shirt.
I used the barasystem pattern and I loved to dive into the basics of this system to have the correct measurements. I have 2 remarks:
1. the collar seems to be just a tiny bit too narrow (same as you at 25:21), so I shall add ½cm to the collar to make it just a little more comfortable.
2. when I put the shirt on, its seems to 'pull' to the back. I hope it helps to make the gatherings at the back of the neck gusset tinier. I'll just try.
Thank you very much for this video!
Great job and video, is there a Mr modern maker? Woof
Supet video, thank you
Thanks for this video, you explain things very well! I hand-sewn a shirt like this before but didn't attempt to do a collar yet , now that I watched this I feel like I could do it! :D
Excellent work! Painstaking detail! You look awesome. Looking forward to more videos in this series. 👍
Absolutely fascinating!
He just casually added the best button tutorial of all time at 14:30
Truely an educational video. I esp learned from the tip about baisting first.
Thank you.
I. Love. THIS. SHIRT. I have questions. I love how this looks. I want it all.
Waistcoat soon? I have a pattern for breeches and I already feel lost after cutting out the muslin for a mock up. I’m too nervous to try real cloth yet! Lol
@@samrobbins4520 I think this is a great idea. I'm in the middle of working on videos for a 16th century silk peascod doublet, but once those are complete, I should work up a waistcoat.
I really enjoyed this video Mathew, thank you for posting. I also learned a lot. Look forward to seeing more content in the future.
That is a beautiful shirt!
Thank you!
Great video, and a great look!
Thank you!
Really enjoyed this video. The neck treatment with button hole stitch and bar will definitely come in handy, thank you for showing it in such detail! When do you decide to use a thimble or not?
I’m definitely trying this out 😊 Thank you so much
I just found your channel and am already enjoying it! Just a question-is the “bar” at the bottom of the neck slit a historical practice? Im not a stickler about historical practice myself, but I do think it’s interesting to know what’s historical and what is your own invention. 😊
I wouldn't put it there if it weren't! The "spider" as it was often called in English, was a common practice to make sure the bottom of the neck slit didn't tear out with wear.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 thanks! I’m just becoming familiar with your work, and I’m already jealous of your skill, talent, and lifestyle! 😁
@@susanholler2128 I have spent my whole life creating a lifestyle that naturally fosters my passion for making things...both historical and modern. It definitely takes work. I think moving away from NYC and to a quieter, more peaceful, less expensive town was the right move. In this town, I can dress in 17th century or Regency clothing and find places where I fit the decor and architecture. I work in a clothing factory now...and I'm surprised at how much I love it! I will tell you...you can have the skills too! They take time to develop but if you just make sure to do some of the work regularly each week, the skills show up when you need them. Happy stitching!
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 have been interesting historical clothing since I was young, and now that I’m retired I’m trying to learn as much as I can about historical construction. I find modern clothing to be poorly made and sometimes boring. My goal is to only wear clothes that I make (someday), and particularly to incorporate Edwardian styles into my wardrobe. Thank you so much for your encouragement. I hope you get to live out your heart’s dream (and continue to make instructional videos). 😊
I love your outfit 😻 , you are very clever 😀
I love it I want it I'm gonna make it.... I'm gonna make several and then I'm gonna wear them everyday
Ugh. That waistcoat is beautiful.
Thank you! For a mockup, it came out pretty well!
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 IT’S beautiful!!! I really want to learn. I followed ya on other Social media. Maybe I can learn some sewing from you and try some patterns. I absolutely love this style. Question... are there only second hand shops where you can buy period costumes like your breeches that are from retired period productions? I’d love to buy some se on hand costume pieces, but I don’t luv in NYC where I can look at shops like that. I’d appreciate any leads you know of to get some nice standards. And great work on everything.
@@tidalboxer Sadly, I don't know of any shops like that. I found them, completely by accident while I was designing outfits for a friends wedding. We were shopping vintage stores and I spotted them among the 1970s flare-leg pants. I have lived all over the country and you CAN find great pieces, but you have to make a habit of getting to know your local vintage stores. After establishing a relationship with a store owner, they may know your tastes and know what to look for. There are online shops as well, but it is much harder to get a good fit.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 awww. Yeah... I kinda figured. It’d be cool if they had second hand costume shops for productions.
This is an amazing tutorial! Thank you so so much!
Love this vid. New sub
Hugs, I hear you on the eating the feelings thing! However you look amazing as always in this outfit! And those buttons! How simple but effective! Thank you. Are the butterflies on the skirt side vents used earlier in time? I know that my husband's shirts (14th/15thC) occasionally split there, would this type of thing have been used?
This is exactly what I was looking for!
I just need some clues about the second pattern that can be adjusted.
I guess it's in inches.
As I usually work in centimeter and am a beginner, I guess the height should be used in inches too in the calculations.
Is that right?
Do you think it could be possible to get the shirt tighter without modifying something else than the body rectangles?
Thank you 🙏
Thank you so much for this! One question, when gathering the sleeve head, how do you decide how much to gather? And am I correct to assume the marks on the pattern (body) is where the sleeve/gusset close up?
It is interesting that you ask that...I really don't pay much attention to how much I gather at the sleeve head. The proportion of the gusset determines that in some part. Larger gusset means more gathers and smaller gusset means less. I tend to think about the fullness at the wrist when I cut the sleeve rectangle. The sleeve head fullness is essentially a synergy between what I want at the wrist and the size of the gusset. Even historical examples have quite a bit of variation.
This is great! I'm so excited to try this. (I don't think I see where the side vents should start though? Am I missing a mark? Also, am I understanding correctly that the neck gusset squares are cut in half on the diagonal?)
Thank you! And yes it does look like I forgot to put a mark for the side vent I would put it about 20cm (8 inches) up from cut edge of the hem.
Thank you for acknowledging how absolutely *tedious* some of this historical sewing is, dare I say even monotonous? As much as I love hand-stitching some pieces of my historical clothing, I also love using my sewing machine and *gasp* my serger sometimes : ) Cheers mate!
This video is amazing! A friend showed me your channel and I am now a big fan of your work! Also you look great in the regency clothes! The dandy style suits you very well. I am also in love with that waistcoat! Can’t wait for the tutorial on that 😍 lots of love from Brazil
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Mate, really great job! I get very interested in this waistcoat too, did you make it by yourself? What fabric is it made of? Cheers
I am so impressed! How long did it take you in total to make this shirt? I wonder whether using a machine would have saved much, if any, time :)
tysm !!
Is a potential book(s) in the work for this era too? And if so, would the time span cross the years you mentioned? I ask because I am particularly interested in the late 1820s to late 1830s and that time span gets NO attention. 😭
I hadn't thought to do a book yet...I've just started developing PDF patterns for sale though and once I star writing the instructions for making the Regency era patterns (they're on the calendar for later in the year), I will have the information and ready-made content for a book. I haven't officially decided it though...the era is not one where I consider myself an expert and therefore it is hard for me to make the leap to writing about it.
I'm so great at math, I think to myself, calculating the chest measurements with a 48in chest
I have some trouble understanding the diagramm. What do these letters stand for (for example L tt?) and how do I know how wide I must make the cutouts since I do need to scale it down quite a bit? I also use metric.
How much does the Fabrice weight, or wich weight span would be recommend for a Shirt Like this?
Great video! How long did it take you to hand sew this shirt?
Thanks for this video. I'm trying to use this to make the Lizzie Bennet dress (Kiera knightly) and this shirt goes under. Is there a way to scale to a woman's petite frame using the numbers you have provided at 2:56? Thanks!
This certainly is a more complicated shirt than the one I watched you make at the Forty Year Celebration. And although you say your stitching is not as fine as the extant shirts it is finer than what you did on the 4YC shirt.
How many stitches to the inch do those high end shirts have?
Did you do the needlework on your vest?
Hi, Mathew! What is a 'felling' stitch? Thank you!
how is this different to an 16th 17th or 18th century shirt?