Battery Hookup's Fused Nickel Strip Test's!!!!💥⚡😲
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2020
- Testing out Battery Hookup's Fused Nickel Strip!!! Lots of different test!!! Pretty Solid Stuff if you ask me!!!
Big Shout Out to Rich Palmisano for Sending the Nickel over and a Big Shout Out to Kieth from 18650 Shrink for sending over some HUGE Shrink Wrap for me to Destroy!!!!!
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Glad to see you back my morning just got BETTER. Can't wait for the battery pack build for this project.
Thanks! Busy time around here with other stuff and things🙄 Im testing moar cells to go with the build. Wife is sick of the BEEEEEEP BEEEEEEP 😆
Solder works great fellows.
I have repaired several large cells and the material that is used is excellent for solder.
I also do not like to weld off target on the pack layout..
Good video as usual Joe...keep it up..thanks Ron
Great video Joe! You make this vid making looks soooooo easy! As for the tested product, no comment!
THANKS! The editing is what takes the longest.....usually!💥🤘
Super cool info! I always wanted to do this, now I don't have to (you did all the work) awesome! Great video!
Every one who builds 18650 packs needs to see this video...
Thanks and Glad it was some help! Share Away! 💥🤘
you answered a few question that i had, i been looking at these for sometime now but they are always out of stk on the 4s, after seeing this i think im leaning more towards the glass fuse approach to avoid any chance of a fire outbreak on something that already has the potential of being dangerous, thanks for the video, Joe
I like the idea of it for sure! To be fair tho most fuses will never see that type of glow as the other cells will dump there energy and pop it in an instant. Im a big fan of the glass fuse as well. More options to choose from as well.
@@AveRage_Joe I doubt that these nickel fuses actually "pop" as fast as you claim, in the real world. Typically, cells in packs do NOT instantly go to 0 Ohms ...
Great work!
Thank you kindly 🤙
tests were good, it tells us a lot, thanks!
Thanks Man!🤘
I will stick to glass axial fuse. I don’t like an open fire that close to anything. Great video!
Im a big fan of the axial glass fuse as well but I do like the idea of the strip. Its super fast building a pack but you still need to add busbars. May be ok with high amp cells and smaller packs.
@@AveRage_Joe which one You have finnaly use?? and another quick, what is you cell capacity spread (single 18650) on Your pack?????
@@camelbakbfm Ill probly use glass fuses if everything fits inside ups cases. If not then Ill use the fused nickel. In my current setup I used 2000-3500mah cells.
Keith always sends his stuff out fast!
Its crazy fast. JIMMY JONS!!!😆💥🤘
Hi Joe, Great Testing video, How to get the cell out of the spacers without disrupting the other cell fuses?
great video - thanks for posting. may i ask, what spot welder did you use.
A lot of DIYers are also afraid of the molten metal that comes after the fuse burst. The other issue would be a wrapped pack. To me, it looks hot enough to ignite a blowing battery and any wrap. I've never used the stuff, so I have no clue, maybe in the future.....Great Video Joe!!
I didnt see much of any molten lava like metal during the test. Cant say it wouldnt ever happen tho. Others mentioned using some capton tape.
I've seen people put the fuse wire through a piece of plastic tubing
Good video... interesting results... thanks for the video.
Thank you and Thanks for watching!!!🤘
A good video... you hit even the point of one cell replacing...
Thanks Mate!🤘
Thanks man. I've been eyeballing these for a while now. Watching this makes me super uncomfortable. I'll stick to glass fuses. I'm way too paranoid to put these in a pack. Thanks again for the tests!
Thanks for watching! I like the idea for sure. To be fair tho most packs wont see a glowing fuse as the other cells would dump energy to vaporize that fuse. Having said that Im still a fan of the glass fuses. 🤘
@@AveRage_Joe It that really what you see? A good cell, instantly going to a 0 Ohms and the fuse vaporizing? I thought it took years for most cells to go bad, ie slowly. 6 amps flowing into a bad cell will eventually cause it to catch on fire. The 7 Amp fuse does what?
Thanks for sharing. Id have to say I like the glass fuse better. Hope to see you more....
I dont think Id want 600F open anywhere on my pack
You betcha!!! I do like the idea of it however Im a fan of a fuse popping at lower amps for a powerwall. Maybe ebike guys but I wouldnt know as I havent built one.
@@AveRage_Joe So much fire risk there. Its a no go for me. Its only an opinion
Great breakdown thank you. What type of welder are you using? I have been trying to find a good breakdown on welders, mods to china welders, etc... any advice you can offer to someone looking to make the dive into a spot welder solution is appreciated. A battery vice wall outlet option would be helpful. Thank you again for take the time to help people like myself make decisions on these products.
Thanks Man! In the video I used a Malectrics arduino spot welder. I also have a kweld spot welder with kcap which allows you to use a psu to power spotwelder from wall.
Hi There, explained very nicely, thanks for the video, I only doubt that how could one replace the battert without removing the battery bracket.......if you remove the one you are using, than will have to rip off strips over 20 cells
Thanks! I think you could cut around one cell to remove it. After I did it this way I was thinking just a single could be removed just as easy.
Ayyyy @AveRage Joe! Good to see you're still tinkering with stuff n things. Those strips are an interesting idea, I doubt I personally would use them, just because I'd just as soon solder to each cell with cat5 wire.
Those tests were fine, in reality though, when used in an actual pack, if a cell went short they're going to see thousands of amps for a few milliseconds and pop like an old school camera flash tube. Got any supercaps? Would be a more realistic demonstration. :) For that matter, grab one of your snow test packs and use it to fuse em :)
Glad you put them dungaree's in science for us Aussies... frankenstein's just don't compute over here.
Good to see you're well bro. Horace too!
Yes Sirr, still tinkering when the body allows lol. To worn out from work. Yeah I like the idea of the strip for sure and agree the fuse would pop much faster in a real application. I dont think I have any super caps but I have some super big caps (bigger then a beer can) Yeah the science mode for for anyone else around the world was a last min addition lol. I always forget most dont use freedomheight💥🤘
Great video Joe. yikes 626f+ on some of those tests is incredibly scary....
Thanks Man! Yeah that can get pretty darn hot for sure! Wonder how high it actually went since my max was 626f. I would hope a cell wouldnt pull that much in a real pack but cant say for sure. Wonder what the glass fuse temps will reach???
Thanks Joe! I enjoy your videos.
Thanks and thanks for watching!💥🤘
@@AveRage_Joe I'm getting ready to start building my packs. I'm building practice 7s packs and charging them with Buck Converters using Solar. check my vids.
SWEET! Ill check your channel out FO SHO!!!
After watching your video I decided to put a layer of capcom tape under the shrink wrap
Yeah I think that would be a good idea!
Actually You could solder the patch in place. Pre Tin the patch material and it would solder easy enough using your overlapping method.
Yeah that would probly work as well!!
Good video. Two spot welds per cell should be adequate at around 20 Joules, have you done a battery resistance check as yet?
I was using the arduino spot welder so it doesnt have the same settings as the kweld. I do have a kweld but still need to assemble it😃
I used kapton tape over my packs, I did short a few fuses and had to replace a single fuse,
Yeah others mentioned kapton tape! How did you change the fuse?
You're hilarious! But, wait a second, is that my cutting board?!? I've been looking for that for 2 weeks!
WHAAAAAA, What cutting board are you referring 💥
@@AveRage_Joe oops, forgot to put on my glasses! Thanks for helping me find it!!!
Eyes playing tricks on you again!!🤓
@@AveRage_Joe Totes!
I just built 7 100p packs, I like it, I'd be just as happy with a sheet of nickel with holes, and use glass fuses, I fused both sides,
Nice! OOOOO I like that idea with just holes and you can add the fuse you want!!!!!!!!!!!!😱💥💥💥🤘
Thanks for the extream effort brother! Lol
😆🤘
Great testing. I think the fuses blow too high. Around the 5A mark is where they need to be.
Thanks Man! I personally think lower is better as well especially for powerwall use and used cells
Perhaps 26 gauge nickel *wire* ?
Thinking is it *might* be harder (for nefarious persons) to “counterfeit” wire compared to strip?
Kitty!
How wide is the fuse portion of the nickel strip? (Trying to determine its cross-sectional area.)
I switched all my fuses to a 1 amp fuse wire. I know our packs don't follow code but seem like a good rule to choose the appropriate fuse for the load. The batteries should never have a load of more than 0.5 amp per 18650 so 1 amp max makes sense. 10 Amps is just a fire waiting to happen if a cell is failing. On the positive side, you can use the nice setup to get it all spot welded then cut and bend the little tabs up and solder a short piece of fuse wire from the roll goes super fast. So I still recommend it since the fusing goes much quicker than trying to solder all the fuses the old way.
That is my way of thinking as well and that is what I did from the start!
@AQUATICSLIVE - You wrote, "... I know our packs don't follow code ..." So, what is *CODE* for these DIY 18650 Packs?
@@MrSummitville Yeah that is the point can't have them really on your property since if there was a fire insurance won't cover it so best to put in a shed or something. All you can do is follow the basics NEC code book is helpful to know some of the industry standards has all kinds of general info to help guide you.
I know this is old vid, but felt like mentioning, the more cells you have the faster the pop. A buddy of mine and I were building a 4s50p settup for light duty stuff in his garage and accidentally shorted a parallel pack and blew about 30+ instantly didn't even have time to heat up... left miner scorching on the kapton tape but didn't melt it. This video vs. My single experience leads me to believe this product is better suited for 50+ cells parallel and could be very dangerous when doing smaller lots like a 4s5p (20 cells in all). After the short we retested the cells in that run and I'm glad to say, "no cells were harmed". At least that we could tell on a charge/discharge test all were very close to the original test values.
If your up for it I would be interested in seeing the different types of fuses compared, maybe for small builds.... 1, 3, 5 fuses, and then on a larger bus line of 20+. Who knows, we may find that each fuse type has a good use case and this experiment would help others narrow down what they need for their use case.
Yeah my psu was weak for sure. Would work better for the instant power from a cell or many cells. I was thinking about an update video using something else as source. Thats GREAT they popped and no noted damage!!! I still have a small section so not enough atm to do a pack but if they have more in stock I may revisit. Thanks for sharing!!! I always want to hear but most are to affraid to share!🤘🤘
@Gordon Hartman - What difference does the Pack Size ( ie 5p vs 50p ) make, when you shorted the entire pack? Each, and every, cell must have enough amps to pop its *OWN* fuse. In a shorted pack: Cell #1 can only pop its fuse, Cell # 2 can only pop its fuse, and so on ...
Replacement idea: Keep the last row empty in order to add ceels if some between are bad.
Sure, I could see that.
Boom Man !! I have question, can you recommend how to do a buss-bars for this pack ?? Which will be better soldering a coper wire (as you did in the past)or attach a nickel strip on the edge ??
BOOOOM!! Another commented soldering a couple wires kinda equally down the pack and then bring them to a lug. Keeps everything flexable as well. Like a few 10awg stranded cables or I guess depending on the size of your pack then as many as required.
Your into the game again ...Yeaaaaaiii :D
💥💥💥💥💥💥💥😆
Hey AveRage Joe, First up I watched the entire video. You are entertaining to watch. Secondly, However i do skip the commercials (adds) but if this hinders the earnings you and other CZcamsrs make then i will make more effort to watch them. Off track here i will get back soon. Third you need to put your cat in more often like every now and a again, having the tail bob around a little. Anyway i'm on track now.
I do like the idea of faster building packs hence the Nickel sheet, but can not figure a neat clean sturdy way to add the terminals to connect to the next pack. As far as fusing i use single strain of electrical extension cable, so nothing would change for me about the exposed glow fire.
I believe if we properly and thoroughly test our cells we might never call up a fuse, at least far less then otherwise.
Anyway great video Joe.
Thanks for watching the whole video!!! I dont blame ya skipping the adds as I do to🤐 Yeah Horus decides which part to show up and help lol. I had more of him but not sure where that part of the video went lol. Agree, I like how quickly you can build a pack. Its like SUPER fast. Another commented that instead of a Bus bar, just add a couple wires equally in center or along the edge and join the wires at a terminal lug or something similar. Many use wire for fusing and its an acceptable method. Yes, if we test our cells thoroughly we will most likily never see a a fuse go. Only other instance for me was I was doing stuff around all my packs on the bench and I kinda tripped a little and caught a pack and they moved into each other and I shorted out 2 packs and 200 fuses popped instantly. I dont believe these would of popped but may of had enough time time to separate the packs. Hard to say tho. So that comes down to being safe on my part!!!
Hi there! I appreciate your tests:)
You did a test gradually increasing the Amps to burn the fuses.
I’m curious what would happen if 9Amps immediately ran across the fuse to see how long it would take to burn through.
Thanks! To be honest its been a while since this test and cant quite remember how long it would take.
@Wesley Hampton - Is that what you see see when a cell fails? An instant rise to 9 amps? When a cell fails, does it go immediately, to "near" zero (0) Ohms while charging? Or do you see many days of the cell slower getting weaker and weaker?
good tests.
Thanks Man!!!💥
Hi Joe, the glow test, what would happen if you submerge the same test but in a liquide like mineral oil! Will the fuse blow at around 9-10A ? I intent to uilt a battery pack and wanted to submerge the pack in a sealed tight mineral oil bath...
Thats a great question. I kinda think it would take more! Again tho keep in mind that psu I used isnt instant current either. A battery pack will dump more energy so its hard to say
Why you are funny I feel I understand. The brain and the words and stuff. Good times.
Best comment so far!!! Love it!!!
Could you use Mains supply Fuses, or do you have to match the Fuse Voltage to these lower voltages?
"They" say voltage doesnt matter but everytime I test at a higher voltage I can pop fuses faster. I used mini glass fuses for my packs a few years ago. Have videos of that as well!
Just Googled Fuse wire and found it to be a Tin - Lead Alloy ~ maybe solder of varying thickness could be used?
Fuse wire Ive tested before. If I remember right it was pretty high for 18650s! Solder will bend/droop when hot and possibly short something.
Hi, not a good idea to spot weld the patch along the edges. The welds tend to burn thru and damage the cell insulation. Can create a short as well. Soldering option is safer, or if spot welding, place a shim below the welding points to avoid damage, then extract. Nice vid, keep it up.
Thanks Mate!!🤘
I actually had this happen. Had to cut the nickel real quick! Whole nickel strip started glowing and created other shorts. It was a narrow escape!
@@quantaalesis6393 same here, few times
What factors do we need to consider to design a nickel fuse? Any recommendations?
Honeslty these are fine for most projects. It was just my personal opinion for my own powerwall build I would like to see a lower blow since I was using recycled cells. What are you building?
this is very helpfull
Thanks for watching!
I got a burn on My. Jeans that looks like one of the fuses! I shorted a cell while welding it! I'm glad it was only my jeans! That would not feel great having a burn on my leg!
😬😁 Yeah for sure dont want that on the skin💥
That test bed of fake 18650 quite a impressive idea , Maybe test the cid before you use them next time as i cant see how a cid would pop with no pressure from the cell butt missing.
Thanks Man!!! I figured those would be a safer bet! Shorting out a pack would be fun for sure but not inside lol. Yeah I just checked for voltage and hovered above a bucket of water when cutting them open lol. No explosion, hissing or anything. I was expecting a fun time😆
I am building a battery pack from old laptop batteries. I am little bit confused how to choose cell fuse. I seen 10Amps in one forum, 0.5Amps in another and 1Amps in another.
Is the fuse depends on Discharge C value of the cell or depends on the load?
How to choose a fuse value?
How many continuous Amps are you going to draw from any one cell? Your fuse can not ever be smaller than continuous amps per cell. If the fuse is not small enough, it will never do anything to increase safety.
Great test Joe,I was wondering what spot welder do you use?
Thanks man! I built a malectric spot welder and used that. I also have a kweld but havent assembled it....yet😬🤣
@@AveRage_Joe thanks for the response, I appreciate it. Keep the videos and reviews coming.
Ideally, those holes would be big enough to get the cell through to replace it. then use normal fuse wire to replace the fuse.
10A per row, you're asking for a lot of power from a 2nd life cell, maybe ok on new cells but I would rather have more parallel packs for better maintenance than pulling a lot from a single pack. etc.
Those might be ok if you're making e-bike packs but not ideal for powerwalls, especially 2nd hand cells.
Might be worth placing a bit of spacing between heatshrink wrap and the nickel tops. dag of hotglue on the pos tip maybe. Also pretty dangerous snipping a live pack, so be real careful when doing it.
Yeah if the holes were bigger that would be a huge advantage for sure. Plus to just replace the fuse only would be awesome. Agree, asking a lot from used cells unless its a big pack. Yeah ebikes for sure. LOL I didnt even think about a live pack since I was just using the tops🤔😲💥
Very informative video and a big time saver product. I remember some of your testing of the glass fuses and they were popping at 4A. What applications would be drawing that much amperage (10A) across a single pack other than a dead short? Made me a little squeamish seeing glowing red 600F before the fuse popped. Cell replacement: might it be easier to have removed the old fuse portion of the contact and then placed a new single contact square over the old sheet and tacked the corners down? That way you could preserve the integrity of the sheet and save you time in spot welding an entire strip. Just a BOOOOOM idea! ;>))
On a side note: made any progress on your Cummins motor project?
Thanks Man! Big time saver for sure! Yeah many of the glass fuses pop at or below 4amps. They pop around double in a slow burn test. I would say small ebike packs could see up to 10a. To be fair on the glowing red fuse, most would never see anything like that. It designed for a short and all other cells in the pack would dump there energy and quickly pop the fuse. Yeah fuse replacement, you could probly cut a single square out. I didnt think my scissors were going to cut it that easy so I went for the strip lol.
The side note project: Still driving the wifes car lol. The plan is to at least pull the heads and see if there still good. What I gather now is most heads are going to be cracked and can be reused as long as the cracks dont go past the fire ring! If there good then Ill replace the gaskets ect... and put back together.
@@AveRage_Joe Thanks Joe! Good luck with the head work. Hopefully it will work out in your favor.
i think the glass fuses are less scary than this stuff, and less complicated to replace a cell if needed... i don't know but maybe this stuff used individually on each cell with glass fuses to link each one to the rest is less scary :)
Yeah thats an idea but costs goes up and you still need a bus bar of some type for powerwall sized packs. Im a fan of the glass fuses as well. I do like the idea of this nickel tho.
Joe, I am about to build a pack and was thinking after watching your video. Say the CID Pops and you get a dead short. With the heat generated by the glow and then the pop of the fuse. Wouldn't that cause the chemical to catch fire? I'll probably ask this question on the facebook forums too. But curious what you think?
Cant say for sure but what I can say is the fuse "should" in theory pop sooner as all the other cells in the pack dump there energy into that single fuse. So in real life my test may not be the most accurate. Working on another testing method to do just that.
@@AveRage_Joe Just got me thinking..But thanks for the clarification!!
@njfulwider - When the CID pops - you do not get a dead short, you get an OPEN circuit. At that point there is nothing for the fuse to do or can do ...
We need more avg Joe content!!
Working on it!!!!🤛💥
Build your self a MEGA PSU with a MOT (Microwave Oven Transformer). 40 or 50A should be enough ?
Someone mentioned using a capacitor to simulate! That may work!🤘
Hi Joe - been looking for an affordable thermal camera. Yours looks nice but I can't seem to find it, only the overpriced plug into phone ones. What model are you using?? BOOM, bay-bee..
Yeah it works out pretty good! Mine is a lil plug into phone jobby and got it on amazon. Aff link in description😉😉🤦♂️🤣🤷♂️
@AveRage Joe
Can you please tell me the thickness of sheet and width of fuse. viz c/s of fuse. Please.
Sheet is .2mm thick and fuse is 1mm wide!👍
@@AveRage_Joe thank you.
your video was very helpfull
Great editing though
You better make sure that you're using good quality shrink wrap and make sure it's flame retardant!
Is molten metal a good idea?
Thanks Joe, been a long time coming. Glad work is solid for you!
I like these, but i wanted to see your rig kill em. 9 amps seems kinda high huh? I thought they were rated more like 6 amps. This seems very viable though for the runaway variety of cell malfunction, but Id be concerned with one that took its time and didnt discharge quickly.
The ease of construction is a huge bonus for sure though. Id still consider using this for say an 80p pack for sure. Kapton and wrap is a good idea.
Your idea for replacement is genius. I didnt think of this method.
Great job Joe, as always enjoy your stuff, shtick, etc.
Thanks again for sending it out. Yeah work is busy and Im just usually worn out to do much especially in winter lol. I like the idea of the nickel. Think its a contender for sure but Im still a fan of the glass fuse!
I think that the alligator clips absorbed a lot of temperature.
Once it started glowing yeah they were hot for sure. After test was complete I had to wait a lil bit to change the fuse. Wish the thermal cam would of gone higher.
Wondering how they would act with layer of KAPTON Tape covering them ? Quite sure they would pull quite a bit more amperage prior to fusing. Would be a far test of KAPON use as well. Another Cool Video Sir.
Hmmmm thats an interesting idea for sure. May have to try that!!!!
Glowing wires inside a battery pack can't be good for plastics such as the heatshrink wrap.
Did you ever think of using the nickel fuse on one side and wire/glass fuse on the other side of the pack?
You could do that if you wanted sure but at that point it would be easier to just use the nickel on both sides. Quicker too.
@Gerhard Wilkens - WHY would you double fuse each cell? What is the advantage?
Super 😊👍
Thanks Mate!🤘
Hi Sir i am in india
your video is very useful please keep it up.
And one request,
please upload
how to replace LED TV Universal mother board.
We're waiting for your new videos
Thanks a lot.
Thanks! I havent run across a universal motherboard for a tv.
Morning Joe, nickel strip with fuses who would have thought. Boom do they send to the poor Australian.
Mornin! Crazy what they come up with these days🤣 Yes sirrrr they do ship down under mmmmmhhhhmmmmm💥🤘
@@AveRage_Joe Have a good weekend Joe.
You to!💪
@DIY Projects WIth Chuxxsss - How many times have you short circuited your entire pack? How many times have you found a zero (0) Ohm / Dead Short cell in pack? Are these the types of failures that you actually see?
How thick are these strips?
Edit - they are 1.5mm
CZcams not showing me comments again. Sorry I couldnt help ya sooner!
Cool!
💥🤘
It's not cool, It's damn hot 😁😁😁
Has anyone tried over lapping these to double current? Thoughts?
I havent tried but I dont have anything that would require double current! I would say use a single fuse instead of a cobble but thats me!
AveRage Joe thanks! I have a few sheets of the battery hookup so I will give it a try. But do you know a good source to get glass fuses?
Yeah giver a go and see what happens! Yeah Kieth has the glass fuses ebay.to/3ausf2k and thats where I get them from!🤘
Alright!!!
I did say that A LOT I think lol
The glowing fuse doesn't melt the plastic cell wrapper to short the positive with the negative casing? Or is it basically relying on the fact that the positiive ring protector is responsible for this protection? I hope there is no cheap chinese fake ring protectors in any of the cells. that would not be good. This test does not have contact with the top of the cell as in a reallife scenario.
I refuse to skip to 7 min 😉
Thank You!!! Most just want things Right Meow!😹💥💥🤘
After a very long time 🧐
True that! Joby job has to come first as it is what pays the bills! Lots of other things broken or quit working that Ive had to fix or work on🙄😆💥🤘
@@AveRage_JoeHaha 😂who else 😊
my cats are always help me also :D
Thats all they wanna do!!!😹🐈🔧🔨💥
Are you sure those fuses are nickel? Your temperature readings suggest that they melt at ~330 C, which is well below the melting point of nickel, which is more like 1450 C. A metal melting at 330 C could be lead or babbit (a tin alloy). It could be an alloy of nickel, I suppose, but googling does not find any likely candidates.
www.steelforge.com/literature/metal-melting-ranges/
I believe they are nickle coated steel!
Yes, nickel coated steel, and steel has a melting point similar to nickel's. Your temperature readings are underestimating the temperature at melting; that the fuses glow red indicates a temperature greater than 330 C.
Yep, I think I mentoned in the video my thermal cam was maxed out so I couldnt get the end temp!👍
@@AveRage_Joe Thank you for the video, it was interesting and cool. And please don't take my comments as critical.
Not good for my 30amp cells then huh? Looks like it gets hot enough to start a fire before it blows. But if a cell shorts out the whole process would only take fraction of a second.
You could use on 30a cells for sure! Also YES if a cell shorted out it would pop the fuse much faster then I could with my lil psu.
@ Keith Rose - You pull 30 Amps per cell in a 40P pack? That would be 1,200 Amps. Do you actually do that?
You just convinced me never to use or recommend them.
What was it that did?
@@AveRage_Joe i cant stand to see glowing metal near cells. Imagine a whole pack of that at the same time. Incased glass fusing is the safest ive seen.
Yeah I would hate to see that in a real pack as well. They say you shouldnt see that as your Pack fuse should pop before ALL the cell level fuses. If 1 cell has a short then the idea is all the other parallel cells will dump energy to pop that single fuse.
@@AveRage_Joe is it cheaper then the glass fuses?
Glass fuses are much cheaper but more time and effort.
12:25 a perfekt light bulb .... oh sorry 130 years late ... we now have leds
😆💥🤘
Hey guys, i work with these as well and they work fine. I think there is a big misconception about why the fuse is there. There are NOT for current regulation, you do that with a fuse that on the entry or exit of the pack and a bms with relay or mosfets. The fuse is to protect against internal shorts. When an internal short happens you have all the cells in parallel discharging through the cell that is shorting. Depending on the amount of cells in parallel that can be 100's of amps. The fuse therefore has to blow not at 4 amps but anywhere between 10 and 20, because you do not want do dissipate heat when in normal operation. With second hand cells you need to put at least 10 cells in parallel just for this reason.
The busbars are always a silly idea, they take time to make and also put potential stress on the connection. What you want to do is just solder about 10 (or hoewever many you need) thin wires (2 mm^2 )and connect them at the end. The wires are flexible and do not put stress on the spotweld joint.
Great to have you back joe!
Yeah I think there a real contender for sure. Agree most dont understand that the fuse that should pop is entry/exit so you dont waste or pop all the cell level fuses. Thats why I mentioned it was designed for shorts and all other cells will dump there energy into that fuse and pop it and most of my test were not that!
Yeah agree the busbar thing IS kinda silly. I like the wire way....way better!!!💥🤘
@TomTheDutchy - A 10 or 20 amp fuse per cell will add very little, if any, safety to a pack. A cell can get hot and start on fire long before a 10 amp fuse will blow ...
Man it's been a while since I have seen you videos this whole CZcams thing is getting bad. I am a subscriber and it should show me your videos now I have to click show all so we actually see your videos. Anyway how have you been
Yeah Ive been busy with work and other stuff but cant say why youtube isnt sending notifications! Maybe unsubscribe and resubscribe?? Only thing I could think of trying. Been good here just worn out lol.
I think I dont want any glowing metals near my cells.. 🤯
well another day done another company taking advantage of the little guy not one word from them still great work battery hook up for scamming
I want to point out that they have in fact refunded the damaged batteries the company has stepped up and done what is right . I was in the wrong .
Could you move your camera back a bit? I dont remember your videos being all up in our faces before.
LOL DAAAAAAMN IT!!! YES, I always mean to push the camera back further lol
@@AveRage_Joe I like them close!
🤣🤚🤘
Mixed views on this product, maybe its good for new pack builds with brand new cells, not sure its good for the second use cell market. In the event of a cell failure, patchwork quilting the pack just seems a horrible cumbersome hack.
Agree across the board!💥🤘
Could just put each cell in a steel tube!
Thats a lot of steel tubing😄
I'm new to your channel.. you always say "kaaaaaaa-or-tek" i assume it's not english.. what does that mean? Just curious
Welcome to the channel! Its actually "contact" and that term is used when 2 surfaces are touching. That can be swaging, applying power ect. In my case it was applying power and I pretty much copied anothers youtube ch "ave" and he says " caahhh-ooorn-tac". Thats it😃
AveRage Joe ohh!!! A funny way of saying contact.. got it 😄
Back when I first started testing fuses and stuff for 18650s I think I was watching A LOT of his (ave) videos and the way he said it just stuck in my head. 🤦♂️🤣 However "contact" is used at the place I work at for swaging to alert others that loud noises are about to happen.
bbBBOOOOOOMMmmm 😎
💥💥💥💥💥😆🤘
Of course, everyone knows what Average Joe is spelled backwards: eojegareva
LOVE IT!🤣💥
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
The melting point of Ni is 1,455° C (2,651° F). How can this test be relevant? Fuses should not be made of Ni. The regular material used for glass fuses is lead.
1959Berre these fuses are nickel plated steel. The steel has the lower melting point.
@@rohanwilschefski2549 The melting point of steel is: 1400°C-1500°C, which is very similar to Ni. BTW, the melting point of lead is about a factor of four lower: 327°C.
I think he said its similar to fuse material and its only nickel coated for corrosion resistance. I wish my thermal cam would of gone higher but then again he designed it for more of a dead short kinda thing.
@@AveRage_Joe And who has "Dead Shorts" on their Battery Packs? Cells typically get weak, over time ...
Man, u have thermal camera, u live in a snowpile and u havent used it to check your house? Shame! :P
Lol Ive looked at house but allready know it needs a TON of work lol
battery hookup has robbed me I need help they sent me punctured lg pouch cells that had rocks between them even with pictures they refuse to help in any way
well more story's from them they say they will refund then they ask what I want refund or replaced then they vanish again same thing every day now for 5-6 days I have lost income staying home each day worth more or equal to the purchase now as well as I am stuck with the garbage this company has sent me they do not seem like they will ever follow through on anything they say . I will be throwing these in the garbage today eating the lose of the shipment from this company and lose of income from wages . if you can not afford a lawyer do not do business with this company they will not deliver a quality product or help you after you receive a damaged order in any way but to beat you around the bush for days and days until you lose so much money trying that you give up
good news I found where I can take the garbage they sent me www.call2recycle.ca for free near me so I am done I can toss these out and I guess accept the lose as as I can not afford a lawyer to go after them I am going to toss these out today and get back on with my life
I want to point out that they have in fact refunded the damaged batteries the company has stepped up and done what is right . I was in the wrong .
They usually get a refund or replacement out to ya. I know they can sometimes take a few days. Keep at it and you will get it!
@@AveRage_Joe you are 100 % right I was 100 % wrong you need to give them time they are a small company and work hard sorry
CAT ATTACK!!!!!!!! Haaaaaaa haaaaaaa haaaaaaaaa, heat shrink and wrap = heat shrap.........
LOL Every......TIIIIIIIME!!!!!!!!
@@AveRage_Joe I think it's safe to say that Joe ain't Average Joe without Houras. He's an awesome cat dude...
True that!!!
NOOOOO i will not imagine it to be toilet paper.... shame on u and grose..lol
LOL that TP pic I saw earlier in the day so it was fresh!😱😆
@@AveRage_Joe ewwwwww i will give u fresh..... how would like 10 foot of snow on ya house??? I can get a direct energy weapon uno.
LOL I dont mind the snow. Just dont use that energy weapon to snow a few inches every few days. Then I start to not like it😆
@@AveRage_Joe Ha joe no no I want a 10 ft dump in 10 hrs when u wake up u cant open any doors or windows then u will climb back into bed with ya mrs and talk about a 2nd honeymoon... tff.
Ahhhh OK Im cool with that!!! Energy weapon away!!!! PEW PEW😆
Gave up at the one minute mark, too boring and zero content.
Thanks for the feedback!🤘