The pin must of been push In because the way you take it apart is by pulling the slide and push in the pin I believe it’ll be better without the loaded indicator. I believe that this was the issue. Try pull the slide back and up about a quarter of the way with out pushing in the firing pin
The "little indicator" you say is missing is the back of the firing pin. You probably lost it and the spring when the slide came off. The slide probably came off because the retainer hook broke. I wouldn't waist my time or money on it. It's a very cheap copy of a Raven MP-25. The Ravens (generally speaking), work, and were of higher quality.
@@elmerwatson9mm868 changed the firing pin to steel use omc bronze 50 grain dmj and clean it gold changed the springs too today so it should be like butter . .
Why? Its a davis, lol. They are the absolute bottom shelf of firearms, worldwide. The technical "why?" can only have a couple of causes. The ONLY thing holding that slide to the frame is that rear plug. Its got a hook that engages an undercut slot in the frame. The frame is made of zinc alloy, so its brittle. If the shelf in the frame is damaged, it can cause very poor locking/engagement of the hook. If the hook is damaged, it can cause poor engagement with the shelf in the frame. Until the striker is cocked, that hook is VERY easily pressed forward, disengaging the hook from the shelf. If ANY kind of crud has built up under that shelf, from pocket lint to dirt, it can cause the hook to only partially engage under the shelf. If enough builds up, it can entirely prevent the hook from engaging at all. If, while the striker is forward (uncocked) that "keyhole plug" in the back is pressed forward, and any kind of crud is in the slot, under the shelf, or in the hole/slot the "keyhole plug" (and striker) travel in, it can prevent the plug from properly seating to the rear fully, and fully seating that hook under the shelf. So, how to make sure it doesn't happen again? Strip off the slide. Remove the grips. Remove the plug, striker, and spring from the rear of the slide. Now, you should be able to see the slot, shelf top, and shelf bottom. You should be able to see the slot and bore the striker slides in. CLEAN EVERYTHING absolutely perfectly, bore, slots, shelf top and bottom, and keyhole plug/hook. Use q-tips, an old toothbrush, toothpicks, etc, along with a can of aerosol "brake-clean" to get EVERY surface 100% crud free, clean, shiny. Now, in a bright light, examine all of those, and look for defects. The hook should lock into the shelf with almost no slop. The shelf should be matching the hook, with no chunks missing, edges busted off or rounded, or ugly chips. The bore and slot the striker and plug ride in should be smooth, crisp, and undamaged. No gouges, no chunks missing, no smeared or chipped edges, inside and out. Make sure the plug can slide in the bore and slot smoothly. Make sure the plug is also unchipped, not gouged, rounded, smeared, or burred up. If everything looks damn near perfect, you should be ok to reassemble. If ANYTHING on the slide or frame isnt "perfect" (gouged, chipped, chunks missing, cracked, smeared, burred up, etc) DO NOT EVER FIRE THAT PISTOL AGAIN. If everthing is good, then lube the hook and shelf with either heavy oil or light grease (not dripping or heaped on, a light coat), the slot in the frame the same lube, and good gun oil (NOT wd40 or silicone lube) in the bore and slot in the slide, on the striker and spring, and the part of the plug that ride in that bore and slot. Once again, not dripping, just a good coat everywhere. Once you reassemble, make sure the plug seats fully rearward. Work the slide a few times and make sure the plug stays fully rearward. If it hangs up AT ALL on assembly, or when you rack the slide backward and forward, you have bad parts (plug, frame, or slide) and the gun shouldnt be fired until its fixed.
The pin must of been push In because the way you take it apart is by pulling the slide and push in the pin I believe it’ll be better without the loaded indicator. I believe that this was the issue. Try pull the slide back and up about a quarter of the way with out pushing in the firing pin
It could have been
The "little indicator" you say is missing is the back of the firing pin. You probably lost it and the spring when the slide came off. The slide probably came off because the retainer hook broke. I wouldn't waist my time or money on it. It's a very cheap copy of a Raven MP-25. The Ravens (generally speaking), work, and were of higher quality.
Muito linda. Quero comprar uma
Lol because 30+years ago it was a $25 p.o.s.
Mines a raven but it shoots fine
I have never shot a raven im glad you haven’t had any trouble with yours
@@elmerwatson9mm868 changed the firing pin to steel use omc bronze 50 grain dmj and clean it gold changed the springs too today so it should be like butter . .
@@joshuasutton4043 ok thanks
Why? Its a davis, lol. They are the absolute bottom shelf of firearms, worldwide.
The technical "why?" can only have a couple of causes. The ONLY thing holding that slide to the frame is that rear plug. Its got a hook that engages an undercut slot in the frame. The frame is made of zinc alloy, so its brittle. If the shelf in the frame is damaged, it can cause very poor locking/engagement of the hook. If the hook is damaged, it can cause poor engagement with the shelf in the frame. Until the striker is cocked, that hook is VERY easily pressed forward, disengaging the hook from the shelf. If ANY kind of crud has built up under that shelf, from pocket lint to dirt, it can cause the hook to only partially engage under the shelf. If enough builds up, it can entirely prevent the hook from engaging at all. If, while the striker is forward (uncocked) that "keyhole plug" in the back is pressed forward, and any kind of crud is in the slot, under the shelf, or in the hole/slot the "keyhole plug" (and striker) travel in, it can prevent the plug from properly seating to the rear fully, and fully seating that hook under the shelf.
So, how to make sure it doesn't happen again? Strip off the slide. Remove the grips. Remove the plug, striker, and spring from the rear of the slide. Now, you should be able to see the slot, shelf top, and shelf bottom. You should be able to see the slot and bore the striker slides in. CLEAN EVERYTHING absolutely perfectly, bore, slots, shelf top and bottom, and keyhole plug/hook. Use q-tips, an old toothbrush, toothpicks, etc, along with a can of aerosol "brake-clean" to get EVERY surface 100% crud free, clean, shiny. Now, in a bright light, examine all of those, and look for defects. The hook should lock into the shelf with almost no slop. The shelf should be matching the hook, with no chunks missing, edges busted off or rounded, or ugly chips. The bore and slot the striker and plug ride in should be smooth, crisp, and undamaged. No gouges, no chunks missing, no smeared or chipped edges, inside and out. Make sure the plug can slide in the bore and slot smoothly. Make sure the plug is also unchipped, not gouged, rounded, smeared, or burred up. If everything looks damn near perfect, you should be ok to reassemble. If ANYTHING on the slide or frame isnt "perfect" (gouged, chipped, chunks missing, cracked, smeared, burred up, etc) DO NOT EVER FIRE THAT PISTOL AGAIN. If everthing is good, then lube the hook and shelf with either heavy oil or light grease (not dripping or heaped on, a light coat), the slot in the frame the same lube, and good gun oil (NOT wd40 or silicone lube) in the bore and slot in the slide, on the striker and spring, and the part of the plug that ride in that bore and slot. Once again, not dripping, just a good coat everywhere. Once you reassemble, make sure the plug seats fully rearward. Work the slide a few times and make sure the plug stays fully rearward. If it hangs up AT ALL on assembly, or when you rack the slide backward and forward, you have bad parts (plug, frame, or slide) and the gun shouldnt be fired until its fixed.