Maytag Washer Making Grinding / Clicking Noise and Won't Spin Out - Direct Drive Repair
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- If you own a newer Maytag Washing machine - the kind with an ultra large capacity using the "Direct Drive" motor underneath, it has some particular problems with noise issues, eventually leading to it not spinning out. In this video, I show you how to repair and replace the two most common issues with the machine - the clutch magnet assembly, and the slider system.
The two main parts I used to solve the problem in this video:
W10754448 Electromagnetic Clutch: bens-appliances.com/products/...
W10734521 Magnetic Slider Assembly: bens-appliances.com/products/...
Hopefully this video helps you diagnose and repair your problems with this unit. Techs are finding this repair more and more common, as the slider assembly seems to go bad after 2-4 years of use, so just outside of the OEM warranty.
Diagnostic Testing video: • Maytag Washing Machine...
Tools I use in all videos can be found at my Amazon Idea Page: www.amazon.com/shop/bensappli...
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You just earned a follow sir. The slider was the issue on mine. Took it apart at first and it didn't look out of the ordinary, then watched your video and realized the magnet was half off. Readjusted and put some super glue to hold it in place. Works like it should now. You're the man!
Dude you have NO IDEA how helpful this was for my machine with this error. As you pointed out in 8:45, that was my issue. As opposed to a "specialized" repair company coming out for a $145 assessment fee PLUS the cost of parts and labor (also not able to get out to my house until next week), I was able to get these parts in within 24 hours and fix it myself in less than an hour.
Seriously, thanks for making this kind of content. Helped me out in a pinch. Thank you!
That's a spiral retaining ring. To remove, pry out the first end of the ring that's facing you, then spiral it out of the groove. To reinstall, pry the end of the ring up, place in the groove and use a small flat screwdriver to spiral it into the groove. Think of it like a key ring where you start at one end and chase it around until it's either in or out of the groove.
Omg thank you so much phil i just disassembled my whole washer and this saved me so much time
This video was extremely informative and helped me diagnose my washer's problem. You saved me at least 1,000 dollars! I've been trying to cut down on buying new electronics after finding out about the children they have mining in the Congo for coltan.
This man is a saint. This video was extremely helpful and was instrumental in solving my problem. The excellent production value was a major plus 👍🏾 Thank you so much for posting please keep up the good work!
Your parts worked perfectly and were extremely reasonable. This video was priceless!!!
I was able to fix it myself and now the machine is better than new. (Seriously) It made a clicking sound since day one. I guess that should have told me that something wasn’t right.
Much appreciated... this video helped me alot and the other video regarding the diagnostic steps. Clutch and the slider was the culprit in my case.
Only issue i had was with maytag/whirlpool company regarding warranty...drum and motor is 10 yr limited warranty but they would not send me the parts unless i get one of their technician out here ($145 just to come and diagnose) when i already diagnosed it and given them the fault code.
The ending of the video is missing. There's been an editing, uploading or CZcams oopsie. :-)
the "slider" on ours separated the other night. The appliance is less than a year old. it looks like a very poor design. Only 6 little contact points where its attached through the metal band. instead of buying a new part to inevitably break again i scored up both the plastic ring and metal band real good with a metal pick. i then coated it with jb weld black plastic bonder, pressed the ring back on then used a q tip to fill in the 6 surrounding holes with the plastic bonder. i suspect its probably a good bit stronger than factory. time will tell how it holds up but so far its fine.
Thanks for the video! Sounds like there are two main issues with this model: the electronic clutch fails and the gear magnet slides out of place. Obviously you can visually diagnose a misplaced magnet, but it’s too bad there’s no way to confirm a faulty electronic clutch. Don’t wanna be a parts changing monkey if I don’t have to 🙈
OUTSTANDING VIDEO!
Ben appreciate you man !!😊
I have a very old Maytag A613 that makes a grinding noise on spin and then the motor stops completely. I examined the motor and it's very hot, like 165 deg. F. However, this only happens when the washer is set to gentle cycle instead of normal cycle. When I catch it making the grinding noise right away and then push the button to switch it from gentle to normal, the grinding noise stops, and spin runs normally. At another time when it was already spinning on a normal cycle, I switched it to gentle cycle and the motor begins a grinding sound again. I then switched it back to normal cycle and the grinding stopped and the spin continued normally. The motor will also occasionally have a grinding sound during agitation on gentle cycle, but not always. On normal cycle the motor does not have a grinding sound and stays under 140 deg F. Is this a starting capacitor problem or a bearing problem or something else completely (clutch or transmission)?
Thank you so much for this video!
I have a maytag washer that is direct drive, the display is not as advanced as this one but the transmission looks the same. I have been reading that people have to replace the whole transmission. I am experiencing the washer stop spinning just after the wash cycle. It will not get up to speed and gives up. It is about 5 years old. I think I got an error code about it being out of balance. I am looking at this fix but I have seen others say you must replace the transmission too. I am not getting any clicks or grinding noises. And if I do a drain and spin, it will complete. But it will never get past the wash cycle spin out. Should I try this fix first. The transmission is expesnive $399 from some places, $220 from Amazon. If I have to replace the transmission and all these part I am thinking I will just buy a new washer.. Has this fix worked for others without having to replace the transmission?
Mine has a high pitched whine on the spin cycle. I am leaning towards the drive assembly. What are your thoughts.
Ben do you have a recommendation for a refrigerator repairman in Northeast Philly? Mother is 91 and I live out of the area.
I’d like to see you do a gear case replacement or swap. I’ve taught a couple of guys my way of doing it and am curious to see yours.
I have a Maytag Bravos XL. When the machine is off and I turn the basket by hand, it spins smoothly for about 2/3 of the way around. On that last 1/3 of the way around it meets some resistance and it requires a bit more effort to turn. It also makes a dragging noise through that portion. I'm wondering if it's the stator magnets that are out of place but I'm not sure. Does the stator turn when the machine is off and turning the basket. Or is the stator stationary because the clutch has it disengaged? And maybe that's not how it works at all LOL.
I have a washing machine like the one in the video, the problem is that it does not spin, but if you wash the clothes, the rotor, stator and clutch are good, I changed the slider and it remains the same, what would be the problem? F7 E4 has
I should've looked closer at the new slider. It looked (to me) like there were 4 nylon knobs going through the magnet. They weren't broken, so I thought I was golden. Nope. Thank you!
Thanks again Ben! The video ended abruptly… Just an FYI🎉😊
Well shoot. I'll investigate!
@@bensappliancesandjunk I think it was 95%+ completed
@@bensappliancesandjunkhey ben check freebie alerts in your area for washers and appliances lots if free items :)
I own a Maytag that looks like this.
Doesn’t clean for shite.
Thanks Ben,❤
Excellent info as always.
Your video end was cut off, but the final reassembly should be easy enough backtracking the current content.
Can you explain the grinding noise?
@7:30 if you don't already know this trick, alligator clips on the lead ends and clipped onto like ~18awg wire to fit in tight spots like connectors
My washer says f7 e1 I was getting ready to start a load I was pre treating a pair of pants and think part of it hit the control panel how do I fix it
The clutch coil is not commonly bad. It seems to get a lot of blame but I have found it is rarely bad. The slider is by far the most common.
A note on the warranty though, it only covers the motor rotor and stator and basket for 10 years parts only. Neither of those parts are ever really bad. (The reason they are covered) The coil and slider are not covered past the one year.
I’m stumped, I have a MVW7232Hwo, Commercial top load, won’t spin, wash, Error codes, F6E3, F7e7, F7e4, F7e3. Changed the clutch, confirmed it engages, the basket plastic gear looks very good, motor resistance measures 9.2 ohms on both sides, confirmed motor harness has connectivity, getting voltage from control board to motor, all panel and display functions work. O yea, it’s 2.5 years old. When it’s calls for spin, I see the motor move, kinda twitch but that could be the electro clutch, I hear it engage… What the heads is my problem. Thanks for looking.
That’s a snap wring. The easiest way to do the ring is to open the ring up, fit the open ring into the groove on the transmission and “walk the ring on”.
Also when installed the rotor, it’s easiest to put the Allan key into the bolt and spin the rotor until the bolt is tight into the gear case.
How replace the lid asm gl mvw6230hw0
Turns out I have a belt drive not a direct drive but the same control board.
I have a F7E1 error code, at 7:39 you say the only way to verify this easily is through the error codes. Are we verifying the new shifter works and it throws a F7E1 or F7E4 or are those the codes it throws when the shifter is the problem?
Sorry, first timer here.
Update, ended up being the shifter. Went into diagnostics mode and tried to active shifter and it wouldn’t shift, manually shifted the unit then the agitation worked and solved my problem. Ordered a new shifter from Ben and received it in 3 days. Back up and running. Asked Ben’s ap & junk to open a zelle and tipped there. They saved me from calling a repairman.
Matthew is the shifter different then the startor and slider, that he replaced in this video?
@@clyboy my wife sent me this video because the control board matched, turns out I have a belt drive not a direct drive.
@@matthewminnich4611 found that out to when I tipped the washer over, did the shift actuator fix the problem?
Looks like the whole 'clutch system' is there just to break after a preset amount of time. Wouldn't directly attaching the rotor to the drum be enough?
I imagine they needed to change it due to patents maybe? I don't think any other rotor/stator system I've seen needs a clutch, but thats mostly been front loads with them instead o toploads
Ours did this from day one. Grinds loud when spinning. My wife, whom ordered it never would call and make a note or try and get it fixed and now a year later I’m sure it’s out of warranty.
Would you say that Maytag’s motor is more noisy then similar motors from Lg and Samsung?
Slightly yes. But the rotor/stator systems are pretty quiet in general
I have been replacing these sliders almost as frequently as I replace Samsung Ice makers.
Also check for loose rotor , make sure rotor is evenly installed and or has not moved to uneven state....My washer (direct drive )was making loud noise was loose rotor not even....
Good luck....
Ben
My question is, are these parts the correct ones for model number MVW7230HW0
Thank you, waiting on your reply.
Ernie
Yes, they are
@@bensappliancesandjunk okay thanks
I will be ordering them from you
Thanks
P/S
Ben I sent you another message regarding my washer model on your diagnostic video
Hopefully you’re able to reply back to me
Thanks once again for your time and help
Also for your awesome videos
would this be the same for whirlpool top loads?
If they have the UI on the right side, yes
Re-installing the retaining ring clip mite be made easier by using an large ratchet socket and rubber hammer to tap the retaining ring back on.
Thought about that, but pressing the entire clip assembly in may be harder than the slight stretch needed to get one part of the coil on
I cannot find your video for diagnostic test
czcams.com/video/g3gABE13i4Y/video.html
The end of the video is missing!
Ben very helpful videos, I had a tech come out and tell me a need a new control board (not covered under warranty) and possible new motor (which is under the limited parts warranty). I checked out your diagnostic video and ran the full diagnostic and got a F7E1 code. I’m not trusting the tech saying it needs a new control board which is the part not covered under warranty. Do you think I would okay with just replacing the direct drive parts? Great videos and thanks for your help…
F7E1 isn't for a new motor, AFAIK.
Thanks, I found out that I don't have the direct drive, I'm guessing that its the shift actuator? @@bensappliancesandjunk
@@clyboy yes, and its like a ~$40 part.
Thanks, ordered the part off your store 🤞@@bensappliancesandjunk
I'm experiencing a grinding noise during the sensing stage of a normal cycle. Doesn't matter how many clothes are in the drum, I've experienced it with a handful of washcloths and with a full load of clothes. I've had a technician come out three times and they've replaced the motor last time, and it's still having this issue. My temporary fix when I hear the grinding noise is to pause the cycle, wiggle the drum back and forth until I hear a *click*. I'm not sure what the click is, but it sounds like a gear or something engaging. After the wiggle and click, it works fine until the next load. We haven't even had this washer for a full year
Hi, did you look at the slider as indicated in the video?
@@bensappliancesandjunk I haven’t yet, just stumbled upon this video. Will attempt to look at it soon. It’s just ridiculous that the same issue has been looked at thrice and it was never resolved
Sounds like gearbox is bad. That holds bearings and some planetary gears for stabilizing shaft. Motor is never bad.
If you call it back into whirlpool you should then get a psp (preferred service provider or factory certified) company out. (wearing whirlpool shirts).
First time they may have sent a tier 1 "authorized" servicer out. But repeat issues usually escalate to the tier 2 "certified" or preferred company
@@michaelchilders2012 Yup, I called them last week after the 4th failed repair. Getting a new unit next week
Speed Queen is the only way to go.
Would be nice to hear the noise it was making
Yeah, tipping a washing machine on its back would be a JOY since my washer is in a closet in a three foot wide hall.
You would what? What would you do?
That's need to know information only. >:-( Please present your documents to the guard to verify you warrant access. Thank-you and have a nice day.
2 years old. I already replaced the water inlet valve. And now this. Either the slider or the rotor. I didnt even bother using the warranty the first time because the time and the cost of shipping the items isnt worth the wait. I just ordered what I needed from Amazon asap. I hated this machine since day 1. It has to "sense" seriously? cant just start filling with water. and then on the rinse cycle, ever notice that the water never touches the clothes? it goes straight down the center and drains right out and never touches the clothes. For 2 years I've had to double wash my cotton clothes, sometimes triple wash, just to rinse the soap out. Absolute worst piece of trash I ever bought. Now that its broken, I am throwing it out. If someone wants to spend $150 and 2 hours to fix it, go for it. All I want is simple and large capacity. Whats going on with this world. In 20 years this is my 4th washer that I'm throwing in the trash. Each one needing multiple repairs. I even had a Speedqueen that only lasted 5 years.
The one to blame for this is our government. Manufacturers are now required to include the sensing or eco modes you see nowadays to use water and electricity more efficiently, just like they did with 1.6 liter flush toilets. Same thing with cars and mpg requirements today also.
Totally agree! These new Maytag washers are a complete piece of shit. 11 months into to a new washer and have this problem. Same as you not work the wait to get a service person here and parts delivered. Maytag even emailed me back to say they can’t locate a repair person in my area. There are dozens!!!!!! Last Maytag or Whirlpool product I will ever purchase!!!!! 🖕
Oh no, cliffhanger!
I bought this washer and I put it in and it had 5 errors in one day so I called Maytag and they had gave me a Jung one I said great I never got a Maytag again
I don't know anything about repairing washing machines but this looks like just plain bad engineering. Designed to fail?
I have the same washer. Horrible machine! I'm on the new replacement one from maytag and I think I'm having the same issues again. Not even 1 year old
How can such a simple design be such a P.O.S.? That stuff should hast 30 years, not 3 years.
Sadly, they make them with just enough quality to give them an average lifespan of 5 years anymore. The companies make crappy units and consumers buy the junk happily, so there's no easy way out honestly.
This machine looks nothing short of a terrible copy of a Fisher & Paykel direct drive washing machine pioneered in the late 1990s (possibly due to The F&P patents
F&P models don’t need any clutch components
Worst washing machine ever