Basic Service of early 60s VM record changer Part 1/2
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- čas přidán 4. 01. 2017
- Service of a VM mechanism common to early to mid 60s sets. I did not do a full service, which requires taking apart the arm. That will be another video
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I just inherited a beautiful zenith console from my late great grandmother and I'm following this to get it back in working order. Thank you so much for posting a detailed tutorial. These old mechanical appliances can be daunting for someone who didn't grow up with them.
With all of the VM changers still out there, this is a much-needed video. You did a great job here---you made it very simple with step by step instructions that anyone can follow
Man. I've learned so much about my Golden voice Motorola turntable from your videos. Thank you so much! You rock and/or roll! 🤙🏽I've had a few issues that became plain as day with your guidance. Here's hoping my interventions fix my multitude of problem with my console! Cheers!
Just finished the restoration of my Traveler record player with a Voice of Music automatic changer. I watched this series several times to learn all the issues with getting these things working again. Thanks so much! I mentioned you in my CZcams restoration video.
Thank you! I had a floor unit sitting for 20 years with just the radio operable but now the record player is working thanks to your videos.
So nice Video ! I am a Vintage Radio Restorer, but had to restore a Zenith Changer, and your video gives me so much confidence !! Amazing Sir, Hats off to You !! Your videos are very inspiring !
I used to work on VM record changers. That guy is very thorough.
I know this is an old video, but thank you so much!!! I received my late grandparents old Zenith SM2420W when they passed. Thanks to your video it is working again. Thanks for helping keep a part of them!
Thank you so much!!!! This video literally saved my life. I was messing with my record player at 1 am and couldn’t figure out how to put it back together. While following your instructions I was able to put it back together by 5 am ;)
Thanks again!!
The Zenith Micro Touch is exactly the same as this VM changer. I did not notice the spring under the 10 inch record sensor but found it when I was putting everything back together. The ball bearing was another helpful tip. Thank you very much for sharing.
Thanks for the very detailed "how to" video. I need to restore a 1955 V-M changer which looks fairly close to the model you worked on in the video.
You don't have to leave the motor connected or cut the leads because you can simply unfasten the plastic lock connector (one screw) and you can free the motor up from the turntable so's it's easier to work on. Thanks for the video. very helpful!
This video helped me out a ton, thanks for doing it!
I can’t seem to get the changer to work properly with the tone arm but the turntable works in manual mode just fine so I’ll take what I can get. Thanks again!
Figured out what was wrong and now the whole thing works like a dream. Couldn’t have done it without this video, thank you so much!
Thanks for this video. I was able to get my parents 50-year-old Montgomery wards console stereo working again.
VERY educational, thank you!
Awesome videos! They have helped me so much with repairing an old Zenith Allegro that was left in my home when I bought it. I do have one question though. Where can I find the spring for the record selector wand as well as the spring for the shut off wand? I had a bit of an accident with my work area and unfortunately have lost both springs 😔.
Thanks for the video , your helping keep these classics alive.
Hey Jordan love the vids what kind of grease do you use? White lithium okay for these?
Great video, Jordan, thanks so much. I have a V-M model 1556 with a broken yellow plastic on-off switch so I'm going to try to have to see if anything seized up elsewhere to possibly cause that plastic to crack. Seems like maybe there were some issues with the arm not rejecting and going back to its holder prior to the on-off switch breaking. Quick question - I was just wondering how you get the platter off the spindle? My mat is glued well so I am hoping that I don't have to peel it off/unglue it. The platter seems to maybe be held on by a small white rubber gasket but possibly there's a clip under that? Thanks in advance for any tips.
Hi, first off thank you for taking the time to slowly go through this, it gives me encouragement I can fix my turntable. I have a '69 Zenith console that uses what looks like the same turntable. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the platter off. You simply lifted the platter off and mentioned the glue was dried - does that mean they literally glued the platter on and I should just pull it off?
pipe cleaners are something that can be used to clean changer parts, I just tried them and they make a hard job very easy
I have the very same nutdriver which also doubles as a pair of pliers!im soon to be working on this type of table in a portable zenith phono, that lifts off the record to early, cuts off the playing the last 10% of the album, any suggestions on what to try? Thanks
Hello! I recently bought a VM 1225 record changer. This was working prior to being shipped to me, but now, the reject knob is difficult to turn to on, and reject. It does turn on and will play a record, but the reject does not function now. Is there something obvious that may have gotten jammed up during shipping that I possibly can correct or readjust? Thanks for your help!
Thank you Jordan....great video! Question, can the idler wheel be adjusted closer to the motor spindle? My daughter's idler is good but only will engage at 78rpm. Small gap all other speeds. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Fantastic, thanks.
I know this is an older video but is there a way to slow down/ soften how fast the tonearm comes down on the record? Thanks in advance
I have similar changer that wouldn't shut off and would like to get it working so I can have a stopgap changer [to use while i'm working on another] it was in a portable with a 1tube wonder
I get little plastic containers with lids to hold the small parts while i'm working on other parts of something
Perfect!!!
Hi Jordan. Thank you again for these videos on the VM record changer. They have been really helpful for me as I have two vintage units at home. That being said, I have a few questions. Let me give you a backstory…sorry in advance :). So, I followed the 2 basic videos to the “T”: cleaned and lubed everything. The automatic part of the changer was working to move the tone arm back to the resting position when turning the reject button. After playing a few records, I noticed that as the tone arm approached the inside of the record (the record not being done playing), the record would skip until I turned the reject button ~ 1/2 way and then it would resume playing again. I had not performed your advanced video, so I decided to re-tear everything down again and perform that as well to possibly fix this issue. So after I did that, and carefully put everything back together, I noticed that the automatic feature, I described above, was not happening anymore. The record WOULD play manually, though. So in essence it got rid of the skipping, but now I got a new problem. Tinkering around, I was able to manually turn the cycling cam/turntable and “trip” the automatic mechanism, so I thought I had fixed it. But when I reinstalled it to the power source, it still would not trip automatically. I would like the automatic feature to work on these units, but I feel like I am missing something. I even purchased a service manual/schematic of the record changer to try and trouble shoot. One of the things the service manual says is that it can be a bad motor. The original motor is still in the unit I describe above, although I cleaned and lubed it. Can you shed any light on these issues? Thank you so much for any help.
Patrick
Motor wouldn't do it.
I think you need to carefully examine the end of play trip pawl on the cycling cam, and the aluminum slide the arm eventually pulls on at the end of the record. Something in that system of things is binding.
Thanks Jordan. I’ll take a closer look.
i bought a philco changer that has a similar spindle, but now i can't get the platter back on
Thanks for sharing this videos, super helpful. What were the oils/ lubricants you used on this video?
Moly grease and zoom spout mo98
@@JordanPier I appreciate the info, Jordan.I’m looking forward to start cleaning the turntable on my old zenith stereo console and hopefully get the reject system working again.
Magnavox put a similar changer in some of their portables around 1967
Got my Zenith 2G turntable from 1967 torn down and cleaned. I put it all back together, but it still does not cycle. Also it has a nasty “pop” thru the speakers when I shut it off. Any suggestions? I have subscribed to your channel and I love your videos the best. Always informative. Thanks.
Gary Spinelli does not cycle is pretty vague. More specifically how does it not cycle?
I have a VM1296. The platter stops spinning as the needle is getting ready to move. Seems as the slide underneath is getting jammed and I have e to manual help platter to continue. Anyone have an idea whats holding it up? Can't find anything.
This video is super helpful Jordan! I have a question for you though. I am working on a very similar model (1297-B75) . I am having trouble with the 7" lever. It keeps getting stuck on the underside of the locator and will not poke through the top of the baseplate. Any suggestions appreciated!! Thank you!
Also worth noting is that my 7" lever has an extra leg/arm/thingy that the model you are rebuilding does not have.
I have a 59 vom turntable mechanism is the same . I'm having trouble with the tracking. The tone arm is totally missing it's Mark . Is there an adjustment or something that is bent?
The adjustment is under the tonearm. It's a screw that moves the arm in and out. However if the landing is too far in (like 10") the something in the record size selector is stuck
Watched both videos. Very good info. I actually have a zenith 937 turntable but the
undersides looked amazingly similar. I cleaned everything just like the two videos said and i
still get no power to the turntable. I checked the plug coming in and i have power there. So was wondering
where i might turn for additional help. I don't mind sending pics and paying for a service call. I'm in Texas
so delivery would be an issue unless i ship. At this point my multiplay spindle actuator has no top to it and there is no ball bearing.
Also, i believe the cam wheel may have some broken pieces to it.
The spindle arm is very loose and can come off but the4 wires are attached.
The platter now spins easily but when i move the spindle i get nothing.
If buying a replacement unit is the answer I'm willing......but where do i go?
The switches go bad. Very common. You need to get in touch with Gary at the voice of music. They have new switches if you send in your old one and any pieces that may have fallen out. Sometimes you need to carefully cut away a corner of the new switch, but they work
Jordan,,i have a similar zenith console mk2602 and its slows up...what could be causing that?
Hi. Thank you for these videos, they are very informative & helpful. I am just starting to get into restorative repair for these vintage items, as I just inherited a few. I have a question regarding the cycling cam collar that you mention at minute 15:35 of the first video. Does that collar normally fall off? When taking mine apart, it came off, on the model I have, and I am having a hard time keep it back on now that everything is cleaned and re-lubed. Am I screwed? Is there something that I am missing? Any answer would be appreciated. Thank you.
It has a crack in the plastic that holds it together. You can email Gary at the voice of music website. He sells new ones.
Thanks Jordan!
Great video, thank you! I went through the entire process and everything works great now except it fails to pull the power switch completely off. It does try and gets it about half way. I don't see an adjustment. Do I need to bend something? Also, when turning the mechanism by hand, everything is quite smooth except the mechanism that presses upward on the pushrod to ball bearing to cycle the record spindle drop requires a fair amount of effort. It's not that the spindle is hard to cycle, but that it continues to push a little further after the spindle is fully retracted. I don't have an idler yet, so not sure if the motor is fine with that much pressure or not. This is a newer mechanism than what's in the video and uses a flat spring to push on the pushrod.
If it's a later generation with a plastic switch at the back right corner - the switch may be bad. They bind as the plastic deteriorates. Gary stork at VMAE can rebuild it.
Before you do that however, you need to see how the aluminum slide interacts with the trip the moves the power switch to off. With the record holding arm fully down the slide should pull the switch tab to off. If it's not getting high enough to trip the switch you need to address that. Don't bend the slide.
Check the interaction between the slide, record holding arm and the spring metal pushing up on it. Something isn't assembled right.
@@JordanPier Yes, it appears to be a plastic switch in the back right corner and the Molex connector is built-in to that assembly instead of wires running to a remote connector. The switch does cycle smoothly and the trip seems adjusted correctly. It pulls the switch toward off, but stops just short before it cams-over to the off position. I have not lubricated the switch yet - perhaps that will be enough. This Molex connector also has round contacts instead of flat ones. I bought this changer to replace the one missing from my parents old Tonecrest console (1964). The donor console is a 1968 Admiral. I need to take a closer look at the Molex wiring, because it only has 3 wires and the console has 4. I just need to make sure the changer is wired to switch power to the amp properly.
I have a Record Changer VM29RC that needs repair. So I'm looking up at this video in hope lol
Hi Jordan. Great video and easy to follow.
I have 2 VMs I inherited
After cleaning and lubricating my symptoms are still the same
The platter will spin but the tone arm never moves to the record.
If I move the needle to the end of play it doesn’t return home.
Any guidance or check points you can offer?
The trip on the cycling cam is sticky or stuck. If it uses the plastic one, it's needs to be replaced as they crack and fail. VM has them for sale if you email them.
@@JordanPier thank you Jordan! The trip is metal. Seems like it was bent. I made a small adjustment and the automatic started working.
End of play seems to be a bit off. Returns home before it gets to end. I put a 45 on and it seemed to work correctly. I can mess with. Now to recap the amp.
Again this video is a life saver. Clear step by step instructions.
Hope this thread isn't dead- I've got a very similar model, and when I reinstall the motor after cleaning, it's got tons of play. My assembly isn't as complicated as that in the video- I took off two screws on either side of the armature, and the motor spindle slid out. Mine's also bushings, not bearings. I'm sure I put the hardware back correctly because there are only two nuts, and they only go one way...do I need new mounts?
I replaced the mounts, problem solved.
Hi! I have a Telefunken/Kuba Rumini console record player, from 1964. The underneath at least, looks like this one. When I put go to put a record on, I have to manually help the platter along until the record drops and the tone arm moves to the record. From there it's smooth sailing (mostly...there seems to be some kind of a bump somewhere either in the platter or the idler rubber which causes a sometimes noticeable repetitive lag) until the end of that side of the record. Then, when the tone arm is attempting to go back to it's resting position, I once again have to manually help the platter turn until the tone arm returns to it's spot and the player turns itself off. Any advice for what might be the problem(s)?
You need to have your idler wheel rebuilt or replaced. Terry's rubber rollers is best, or thevoiceofmusic.com
That's surprising - the rubber on the wheel is still really pliable.
Well, lo and behold, you are right. I put some double-sided tape on the edge of the idler wheel, dulled down the tackiness, and yep, it works. I guess even though the rubber was pliable it had just shined over too much. I've sanded the edge down now with some fine grit and it's back to probably 85% functionality. Any suggestions for a rubber conditioner?
dorotheaishere they don't really work. Surface it with 1000 grit and replace it when it becomes unusable
Hello,
On the cam gear assembly the stud with the collars. are the collars or stud suppose to turn? on mine only the stud turns.
I heated, cleaned and still only the stud spins
thanks for any and all replys
It varies, but whatever part of the students makes contact with the opening on the main slide is supposed to turn
thanks for the reply and the great videos
mines a bit older 1200a this helps!
If my memory serves me right, there's only a 10" censer, and a 12" censer on this record changer. The 7" is a default position.
Your memory has served you right.
I have an old Zenith console but not sure the version of the turntable itself. There is a sticker on it that shows 169-559. Is that the model number or should I be looking for a different number or designator?
@@seabee750 that's the zenith model number
What a great video! I just got the frozen motor working on a free General Electric console by following your step by step. Still a couple of issues. First is, as I recall, you should be able to hear a buzz if you tap the end of the unplugged RCA cable and I hear none. Blown tube maybe? The second is that the arm keeps recycling. Turn it on, the arm raises, moves over drops down and then raises and goes to home position. Any ideas? Also, where can I get a replacement needle for this? Thanks so much!
If you're not hearing any buzz if you touch the end of the RCA cable, your amp has problems. Could be a number of things.
The changer is endlessly cycling. Either the trip on the cam is stuck and not resetting, or something is causing the trip to get pushed out and caught by the platter repeatedly.
Thevoiceofmusic.com is the best place to get needles for these - but don't get one until you know the amp works and cartridge works
@@JordanPier thanks so much for the quick response. I turned it to the tuner and all of the tubes start glowing and the red power indicator light on the front lights up. On phono, no tubes and no red light but the motor turns. Not sure if that means anything. I know nothing about tube radios.....lol. I have a electronics repair guy that probably knows his way around this but question how much I'd be willing to invest. Considered buying a turntable to replace this one but was looking forward to bringing this one back to life. I'm a tinkerer but with many other projects already.....lol. I will probably work on the mechanical parts and check the costs of the electronic repairs. Thanks again!
Sounds like either the switch in the electronics that yields power control to the turntable has failed or there's a problem in the turntable switch or wiring.
@@JordanPier I'll take a look at the switch and see if maybe I can find anything obvious. Beyond that, it's off to the repair guy for electrical or put a modern turntable in its place. Looking forward to playing a Led Zeppelin IV album I've been holding onto......lol.
Hi Jordan. Where did you get your idler wheel? I'm currently working on a Zenith Cabinet A10 and cant seem to find one. Have you ever soaked in brake fluid to soften? Is it recommended?
Brake fluid doesn't work.
If you can't find yours on thevoiceofmusic.com send it to Terry's rubber rollers for a rebuild
@@JordanPier thanks for the quick response!!
Very helpful video. I am trying to restore a Zenith Z931 record changer 169-352. This is the first time I have worked on a record changer and my question is about grease and lubrication. I obtained a service manual and it states to use cosmolube No. 1. Could you respond with the brand/type of grease and machine oil you utilized in this video. Thank you!
Mo98 ZoomSpout for oil, wheel bearing grease for the parts needing grease
thank you!
Please help! I thought I did every thing in your video on my VM Changer. I got it all back together and now the tonearm won’t go to the record if you put the record holder down. I can move the tonearm back and forth and I hear a pop and it will then go over to the record. Help!
If record holder is all the way down and you start a cycle it thinks there is no record to play. Make sure there is a record on the spindle being held by the record arm.
if you loose the bearing spindle, you can easally use a .177 cal. bb as a replacement! Just buy a box of Crossman .177 bb"s!
Great video - when you tested the V-M changer with reject, the arm started the cycle but did not go to the record - it stopped at the rest and shut off the machine. Mine is doing that. What did you clean/adjust to get the arm to behave normally and not sit down and shutoff????? Thank you!!
Make sure the little finger pressed in on the main slide with the tiny spring on it - is free moving. When it gets sticky it will cause this symptom.
Also the rocking assembly under the main slide sticking can cause this.
@@JordanPier Terrific -thank you very much!!!! Really great help to have an expert to consult -- there is no info I know of out there to troubleshoot old record players and I am too old to think of that stuff myself..........Thanks again!!!
By the way, I do antique radios and have for 30 years. I have parts and tubes and experience so if you have a radio that is troubling you, feel free to ask - maybe I can help. Thank you for being there.................Steve -- skykng6@gmail.com
@@stephenlarrabee8618 I think there's a book Sam's photofact published about troubleshooting record changer problems in 5 mins
@@JordanPier Good steer -- will pursue. Thanks!!
So I have done most if not all of this service on my Zenith VOM changer. The changed part works fine. My problem is the platter speed. I have replaced the motor, idler, platter bearing, motor mounts,etc and I can only get 32.5 ish RPM on the platter. I have tried the paper strobe wheel and a iPhone Rpm detector app and I haven’t been able to reach 33 1/3 or even 33.0 rpm. We’re you just lucky. I took the original motor apart and lubed it as in your video. It still ran slow so Gary sent me one of his tested motors and still it’s slow. Any suggestions. The speed is close but I can hear distortion on certain records. Any suggestions?
Only things I can think of is a worn platter rim. See if you can try a different platter (make sure it's one from the same series) - diameter of platter rim may have increased with wear (same slowness on all speeds?)
Sure you have adequate line voltage to the motor? Could be a lossy switch. Check switch with ohm meter and voltage to motor. Should be at least 110v. @ 60hz.
I know the line voltage into the console is good. Not sure if the voltage coming out of the power supply is. The wall cord feeds into a power section that then provides 110 to the changer and the other lower voltages to the radio and amp chassis. This is a ‘68 ish model Zenith console.
It’s hard to believe that the platter rim could have worn any appreciable amount with just a rubber idler wheel running around it. I was considering trying to put some sort of tape around the inner edge of that rim just in case. I did some math and to increase the RPM that rim would need a few thousandths of an inch added to it. But I never did that since I thought I could never get it smooth enough to not cause an increase in Wow or flutter. The player sounded fine with loud big orchestrations but when playing harmonic guitars like the band America or even the Eagles I could hear some slight distortions in the harmonics which bothered me. I stopped messing with it. I really need to do a full recap on the electronics but I haven’t done that either.
Sorry...dumb question. How do you remove the actual turntable from the box? I have a VM 361
That might be a better question for Gary Stork at VM. He can be emailed through the website thevoiceofmusic.com
@@JordanPier Thank you. I have seen all these great videos, but with the turntable already removed. I will reach out to him and then come back to your video for service instructions. Great stuff
I have a 1956 consol VM tri o matic, the turn table does not spin, any suggestions?
Disassemble platter and check for frozen motor, bad idler and sticky mechanism
Literally what this video is about.
@@JordanPier I tried to remove the platter and it seems rather firm and doesn’t want to come up, it will spin if you move it by hand but it doesn’t seem like it wants to come out
@@sethfrost7091 have you removed the retainer ? It's either a c/e clip or a rubber o-ring.
Your video is great , but after the cleaning the ideler wheel will not make contact with the motor, which was working before. Any suggestions?
Make sure the speed selector isn't between detents and the idler spring underneath has not come off
Everything seems right but the idler arm moves way to freely and does not engage
@@kevinrenteria5909 idler pivot arm being free I normal. Main idler derailer that allows for elevation change and speed should have a pullback spring to the chassis underneath which can break.
Also, is the idler soft and supple, or hard?
The idler is hard and we are in the process of taking it back apart finding and ordering a new one.
@@kevinrenteria5909 my guess is the disintegrated rubber bits had accumulated on the idler surface. This was the only remaining traction and when you cleaned it that went away.
Visit thevoiceofmusic.com, find your idler, purchase and send back your old one as a core. Easy peasy
As the tone arm tracks the lead out groove, it does not reject to drop the next record. It will reject manually, but the tone arm returns to it’s rest, instead of playing the next record. Strange
When you pulled the cycling cam, did you pull the end of play trip, clean and lube it? Are both pieces free moving?
Does this use the all metal trip, or the half metal, half plastic clutch piece with the u shaped spring? If the ladder, the plastic can fail and not clutch properly. Gary at thevoiceofmusic.com has them.
Put the turntable up on boxes, or try an observe in the cabinet if the slide towards the back of the turntable properly slides to the left during the lead out groove and that the end activates the end of play trip.
Also note how far in the arm sets in when it starts. If it's setting down further than half way in on the lead in groove try adjusting the set down position with the screw on the top of the arm pivot (loft the arm up and you'll see it) so that the arm sets down further out. Sometimes it's the little things....
This has a plastic one. I did clean and lube it, but I may have missed something. I’ll try cleaning it again, and if that doesn’t work, I’ll order a replacement from Gary at VM. Thanks again for your help.
Just wanted to let you know I got the turntable up and running and it’s working great. I cleaned and lubed it better and that did the trick. Thanks again for the advice. Looking forward to your next video.
Hm ! Ive worked on thousands of these VM Changers and never ever heard of a AC phono Motor running in reverse if you flip the core over, Not true, AC (Alternating Current) reverses cycles 60 HZ, the core doesnt know the difference. Now if you had the speed shaft on the other end it would run opposite directions. This is not possible with that motor.
It will rotate in the opposite direction, the stack determines direction...
If it's a VM .... order a new Idler... it will need one... funny BSR's are just as old , and the idlers are still somewhat pliable.. better material used ?
Thats my guess. Dual 122x idlers are ok, but 10xx and 121x are hard or slick.
The dual tier vm idlers for the most part survive but the singles turn to granite
Early Matsushita idlers survive, but later ines turn to tar
my platter is locked down, how do you remove it?
Heat the bearing with a soldering gun so you don't bake the mat. Soak it overnight with some pb blaster to help.
At worst, scrape the mat off, use a heat gun to get it good n hot, yank up and replace the mat from one from thevoiceofmusic.com
That is if you have already removed the retaining ring.
Where are you located?
So cal
And I thought Magnavox turntables were tricky
yes not having it work automatically would defeat the purpose of having it