Bambu Studio Tutorial. Variable(adaptive) layer height.
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- There is a delicate balance between fast prints and higher quality. We are looking at variable(adaptive) layer height. Why it's there, what it does and how to apply it.
Full article found on Bambu lab wiki
wiki.bambulab....
#bambulab #3dprinting #diy #design #tutorial
Searched "variable layer height". Chose the first video. First video gave all the information needed with no fluff. What is this life?! 10/10 sir, thank you!
Thank you very much I appreciate you. 😁
Yeah, what he☝ said. Exactly what I needed, thx.
Bambu Lab needs to just send a link to Ashley's channel to every new customer
You just put a smile on my face with that comment. I know I am a long way away from the bigger channels but comments like these are powerful motivators.
Bambu Lab if you are watching...lol
Yet ANOTHER great tutorial! I have used this feature but never took the time to read about it, so i got less detail than what i thought i was due. Thanks for all your hard work, you're a great teacher!
That's right and doesn't need any more words!!!
Thanks so mutch 😊
Thank you very much. 😁
@@BoosmannTV Thank you. You guys are great!
I have been trying to figure out how to do this for about a year. This is by far the best explanation of how to actually accomplish it! thank you for this
Thank you very much. 😁
agreed!!!!
Amazing video, that is exactly the explanation I needed, you’re a rockstar
Thank you very much. You are awesome. 😁
Finally somebody make a video that clearly explains height adjustments! As usual, great job.
Thank you. I appreciate that! 😁
Asheley thank you for these videos, I have been trying to figure out this setting for a couple weeks and have found no useful explanations and now I know exactly how to apply this setting.
Thank you for the kind words. It's a situational setting. In some projects not needed and in others a lot of manual adjustments.
THANK YOU!!!! been so confused about adaptive layer and your video cleared up everything!!!
Thank you very much for watching and the positivity.
Thanks for this. Admittedly stil a tad confusing but a bit more understandable lol. I will experiment. I always run the 4 nozzle (default) and .2 layer height. Thank you so much for taking the time buddy.
Thank you for the idea. Still trying to "make it make sense" in video form. For the most part I skip variable layer height unless I make a big model with rounded tops that look like topical elevation maps. 👍
The Wiki may have a better explanation, but along with the visuals your explanation is so much better. Thank you for what you are doing with the tutorials for Bambu Studiio. I used Cura so long I never thought I would get to the point of using any other slicer. I was wrong.
Thank you very much. 😁
It's been a while since I used cura and plug-ins but these current slicers can be pretty powerful too.
Man you've done it again. Every one of your videos gives me 10 a-ha moments....every time. Well done. I just bought a shapeoko CNC machine. Can you learn it real quick, then make 20 videos to teach me everything the manufacturer won't?
Hello thank you very much for the positive comments. 😁 If I hop into cnc I'll definitely push out a bunch of vids. Lol
OMG Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!!!! This is amazing!!!! I am so happy! :D
I'm glad you like it. Thank you very much
Very useful. Thanks. I would still like a more technical explanation of these features. Even your excellent video is mostly “click here, move this slider, and see how it improves”. I’d like to understand what and why things are done, technically.
BTW, I found the Bambu Lab Wiki on this topic to be virtually useless.
Hey hey, thank you for watching and the feedback. Keeping with the theme of this playlist(bambu studio for beginners) I try to keep things light.
Once I started that project I quickly realized I could fall into CNC kitchen levels of data and it all can change based on filament, nozzle size, temp, line width... When the question initially was "how can I make the tops rounded and reduce the topography map. 🥲
@.4mm nozzle, Ideally the balance of speed vs quality boils down to even lines for walls can be fine around .16-.20mm without exploding the print times. Tightly packing each layer(low layer height) may look great for some applications and imperceptible in others even with a higher layer height. Since a lot of this situational I lean more towards showing the steps vs recommending a one size fits all solution...if that makes sense.
Going to .08mm may only be worth it for curved tops and even then you will not completely remove the stair stepping effect, just reduce it. If you wanted the printer to print the best it can , assuming time is not an issue you theoretically could print in .08mm.
Also I didnt mention you can post process these with sanding, fillers etc.
Good video, thank you. I had no idea this existed and you explained it very well.
I wish it was not only based on layers but instead focused on the skin of the part. I don't need the finest details (and added print time) inside the part, just what's visible. So somehow print default coarse internally but anything I can see in angled layers be treated with higher resolution.
PS: hopefully you noticed a bit of a bumpy audio track. Maybe related to WiFi connection or CPU overrun.
Thank you. There are so many options and settings in these slicers that I'm still trying to wrangle a decent instructional video. I think when we can get non-planer printing we can get smoother transition between layers. But that would require a completely different printer.
I'm going to update the audio system(again) to one with a safety track to audio those bumps.
excellent video!!!
Thank you very much. 😁
Excellent explanation! Well done and thank you.
Thank you for your comment.😁
Thank you for this explanation! :)
Glad it was helpful! 😀
Really great explanation. Thanks so much
Thank you very much for the kind words and a watch.
good video thank you
Thank you very much. 😁
This is the coolest thing since sliced bread!
Slice bread is still cooler. IMHO. Lol
wow you are brilliant! gained a sub for sure! keep up the great work! :D
Wow, thanks! 😊
I just attempted this the other day with a Homer statue but didn't have a clue what I was doing lol
I should have given more examples for this topic and that is wholly on me. I may revisit this.
My new (much better) mic is coming tomorrow I wanted to show everyone how to make a *********** from a 2d logo. don't tell anyone.
@@ashleys3dprintshop 👀
Hi mate, thanks for a very good explanation. I have a question, how do you set the supports when using adaptive layer?
Hello, Sorry about the late reply. The supports will *auto adjust* for the layer height.
Typically support layer height is larger height then the actual model
for instance a .2mm layer height may have a .26 layer height for supports just like a .08mm model layer height will have around a .16mm layer height for supports. Fortunately the slicer handles it all without much input from the user.
You can see it in action when you slice and change *Line Type" to *Layer Height*
@@ashleys3dprintshop No problem!, thanks for your response =)
I’m having an issue can you help me with. I’m trying to print a 2.0inch round by 2.0inch tall diameter in PLA, but my part is coming out 1.990 and the other side is 2.005. How can i get this dimensions closer and round. I tried the XY compensation but no luck
What speed did you use by the last shown figures? I think this is also relevant to get a well done print.
I ran that at 50mm on both.
I use 50mm/s for silk but the grey filament has a matte finish.
Thank you for the excellent question.
The problem I have is that the resulting print doesn't actually improve with adaptive layer height. What else could be the problem?
@@alexanderkempf9828 rounded or curved tops get a benefit with lower adaptive layers. Depending on your model there may not be enough layers to fix the stair effect. So basically there will always be a stair setp effect but you can reduce it with the lowest layer height.
Quality can be improved with line width too.
There is a limit though. I recommend the Line width video but short option for a .4mm nozzle would be a line width of .3mm for outer walls/text.
I started writing before asking a question but what are you trying to improve? Curved top, flat top, text etc?
@@ashleys3dprintshop i’ll take a look at your other video. I’m essentially trying to design something that looks like a sand dune in the shape of a half dollar; in other words, imagine a puck the size of a half dollar that has a completely flat bottom but the top has a gentle curve to it that slopes upward on one side. I’m running into the classic problem of the shallow part of the incline looking very blocky, but when the slope is very steep, it looks totally fine.
Even printing at the smallest possible layer height with the smallest possible nozzle (0.2 mm), there is still a blocky, topographic map effect where the incline is shallow. The only way I was able to solve it was to just sand it down, but that takes way too long.
What about flat tops though. I use sill and the top always looks bad. Like disney name plates for instance.
Flat tops do not benefit much with variable layer height as it only affects the layers before the top.
How do .8 Nozzle settings configuration.( Layer highest and speed setup)
So the nozzles have an upper and lower limit for layer height
.2mm nozzle .04-.14mm
.4mm nozzle .08-.28mm
.6mm nozzle .14- .42mm
.8mm nozzle .16-.56mm
There is also an option to lower the line width to help speed and quality.
It's explained here but with a 0.4mm nozzle.
czcams.com/video/K6-qhX2S4IY/video.html
Speed gets a bit trickier to pin down since it is model dependent but typically larger layers theoretically print faster.
please buy a better microphone asap
🥲Already done. lol 🤣