How to Hang a Heavy Mirror or Picture Right The First Time
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2024
- StudMark Magnetic Stud Finder: amzlink.to/az013CcuO400f
Snap Toggle Toggler Anchors: amzlink.to/az0JzeG0OadgQ
Myron's Book On Drywall: amzlink.to/az0wk46VEh4C6
Myron's CZcams Channel: / @thatdrywallguy
Learn the secrets to hanging heavy mirrors like a pro with Myron Ferguson! In this video, Myron shares his decades of experience in drywall and plaster to show you the tips and tricks you need to make hanging that heavy mirror a breeze. Say goodbye to struggling with this one-person job and get professional results every time. Don't forget to subscribe for more expert home repair tips!
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Jak na to + styl
StudMark Magnetic Stud Finder: amzlink.to/az013CcuO400f
Snap Toggle Toggler Anchors: amzlink.to/az0JzeG0OadgQ
Myron's Book On Drywall: amzlink.to/az0wk46VEh4C6
Myron's CZcams Channel: www.youtube.com/@thatdrywallguy
good video. I like that you brought in an expert. That is a great tip to use the two pieces of foam to shim out the wire on the back of the mirror.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
omg, the foam shims make so much sense!! it's amazing i've never seen that before, thank you
For heavy and/or large pictures, I've used two methods. One is to use two wires as well as two hooks/screws, with each wire going over only one hook (kind of a crossover pattern). The picture is much less likely to get knocked out of level over time and works very well for wide hangings (which otherwise are a problem). The other method, which is extremely stable, is to attach a separate loop of wire, about 4" long, on the back of each edge. Each loop then hangs on its own hook, mounted just a little in from the edge. Leveling is done by getting as close as you can with measuring and then fine tuning by adding twists to the wire loop on whichever side is hanging low.
Unfortunately, the (otherwise excellent) foam trick won't work for either of these methods.
Thanks Scott for helping me share this information. Love your channel!
Thanks for the tips. Your knowledge needs to be shared with homeowners 🙌
Ha! So timely as I am moving into a new house and this very subject was on my mind -- to do it better than during the previous 50 decades.
Great vid. I’m especially grateful for the part where he incorporates those small foam blocks. I’ve mared several walls moving things up and down trying to get the wires to catch on the attachment screws. 👍
Put round felt pads on all sides of the picture. When you place it on the walls the felt pads are against the wall. No markings on the walls
I knew the magnet trick - I use a rare earth doughnut magnet hanging by a piece of dental floss. But the open cell foam trick on the hanging cord is just brilliant - thanks so much - I've got a huge heavy picture I'm hanging next week and this really helps.
One more time, I say thank you, Scott. Also, thank you Myron for this great method, which I'll try on two pictures very soon.
Thanks for the feedback and support 👍
Thank you both for this. I have quite a few hanging projects but didn't really know how to hang the heavy mirrors. The lighter canvas photos I just used strong tape, but, in the summer the heat drops them. So this tutorial really will help. Merry Christmas to you both and to your families.
Merry Christmas to you too 🎄
how do you secure it so people cant pull it away from the wall?
Let me guess you’re single or you’re a feminist
Shit probably both
Thanx , watching from Panama City Beach FL.
You bet, thanks for watching!
if you can screw something into the back frame of the mirror, aluminum french cleats are great and let you adjust left and right. Wall cleat is on 2 studs. Love the foam method
Excellent technique here
Very neat. Thank you for sharing
You bet!
Myron's voice and speech patterns sounds like Steve Ramsey from Woodworking for Mere Mortals to me. 😆
Good tips, thank you!
I have used a rolled up sock to push the wire out for easy attachment then use a yard stick or something to remove the sock.
If you don't have a mattress laying around that you can siphon foam out of, you can stick a fork vertically with the handle pointing up on each screw, the forks will guide the mirror wire to land on the screws, then you simply remove the forks
As a framer, my go-to for large or heavy pieces is called Wall Buddies. They're a sort of sawtooth hanger that's about 6 inches long and goes diagonally across the top corners of the frame. They make it easy to adjust the positioning of the piece on the wall because you have such a large area to work with that you don't even need to get your 2 wall anchors level or evenly spaced.
Those look interesting. Thanks for the heads up 👍
I was thinking you could also use two tubes made out of paper or card stock that would flatten and fold once the mirror was in place. I hate the though of cutting a chunk out of my mattress just to hang a mirror... 😂
It's also important to ensure that the wires are attached properly, so they don't stretch at the knots. A square knot works great. There are videos that show you how.
Use two forks to put on your screws on the wall, then hang the picture over the forks leading to the screws and simply lift out the forks. 👍🏻
Why haven't I thought about using the foam? Great idea! I've got 50 lb. bulldog hangers holding mirrors and large pictures. They haven't fallen down yet!
Monkey hooks are another great option that can support a lot of weight, require no tools and only leave a tiny hole if you remove them.
great foam trick
Love the foam trick. I hate putting anchors into drywall, though. I just won't do it unless I can't think of an alternative. In that case, I'd probably put up some kind of a bar attached to the 2 studs to hang the picture from. Not that it's better...
And without using a Wago 221!
😂
When I hang some on the wall I use zinc Self drilling sheet rock anchors that has a 50 lb sheer weight limit as far using foam they are good ideas but all I use is tape measure and it works fine
Yes those are all I use for anything drywall hanging... need nothing more
How does a tape measure pull the picture cable away from the picture?
In addition to the two screws that you show going into the wall, I am thinking that perhaps a third screw into the stud slightly higher to help bear the weight of a heavy mirror.
Yep. That’s what I was thinking too. A third screw into that other stud in the middle.
I have a question I cannot seem to find the answer to, and we’re currently debating the issue in the house: once you measure the point at the top of the wire, and the distance between that point and the top of the frame, how to do you drill your anchors accordingly - at the level where the wire will be, above where the wire will be because of drop, or below? For instance - we have a mirror with a wire. The top of the wire measures 6in below the top of the frame. I can’t figure out where the anchors should be placed. I hope this isn’t a confusing question.
Nice to know, I hate trying to hold the wire outward to hook on the hanger on the wall
Question: how can I have the mirror hang at a precise predetermined height ?
I need to end up with a 1/4" clearance between bottom of mirror and the top of a piece of furniture right below it.
Using foam is a cool trick, thanks!
You bet!
Could/would you use the same style anchor on a plaster wall?
I don't see why not.
I don't understand how you can use a toggle bolt to hang a picture/mirror from in this case. As Myron explained, you have to drill a larger hole to get the toggle mechanism through the drywall however I believe you have to tighten the screw all the way in order for the toggle to hold against the back side of the drywall therefore not allowing for an exposed "lip" to hang the wire on. Also I believe you must use a washer on a toggle bolt since the initial hole drilled is larger than the head of the screw. I've never used the type of plastic toggle that Myron ended up using before, but I imagine it is the same idea as the traditional toggle bolt?
For the standard toggle you would need a hook but the plastic Toggler works better for this application as you can leave the bolt unthreaded a bit for the wire to catch.
That plastic one basically creates a threaded hole in the drywall. The hole itself is holding with the toggle but the bolt can be screwed in and out as a totally separate piece. The bolt isn’t required to make the toggle work, like in a standard toggle bolt.
Got it! Thanks!@@EverydayHomeRepairs
Yeah, the toggler holds tight even if you turn the screw out a little. Thats why this was the best choice in this situation.
All good, but you didn’t make it clear how you got the elevation, correct. I find it very difficult to once I get it centered. How do I decide how high up the wall I want it to be.
I think Myron's elevation was set by a reasonable height for the mirror and also making sure some spacing to the light switch faceplate. The trick is understanding the slack of the wire once the weight of the mirror is applied. One of the top issues homeowners will face is not taking into account the slack and then the height being lower than desired.
Press the picture up against the wall where you want it. Make a small pencil mark on the wall at the top edge of the picture. Remove the picture. Pull up the slack in the wire on the back of the picture as he showed in the video and measure from the wire up to the edge of the picture frame. Might need another pair of hands to help with this or tape a 12” rule to the back of the frame to get the measurement. Take that measurement and on the wall measure down same distance from the pencil mark you made. Make another mark. Locate your studs and hole(s) and use a level on the new pencil line to locate level.
3M Claws might be a good hanging method to take a look at
I'd like to see a similar video about installing shelves on drywall, where the weight of the load will be much greater than the heavy picture in today's video.
I assume it's necessary for the bolts to be anchored in the studs. But if the studs aren't positioned where the bolts are desired, the asymmetry of the bolt positions will be visible.
Heavy shelf’s must be in The studs with (non-drywall) screws or lag bolts. They likely will not be symmetrical metrical
You can also use French cleats. I used this method to have a “floating” shelf at my daughters house.
now i gotta find some foam
Instead of the foam chunks on the back to hold the wire out, try 2 dinner forks slid upside down into the screws. The handles of the forks will catch the wire and guide the wire right onto the screws. Then simply remove the forks.
The link to Myron's CZcams channel in your description is wrong. It's correct in your pinned comment 🙂
Thanks for the heads up.
What about using the 3M CLAW hangers?
I have seen them and looks compelling but I would probably stay under the advertised weight limit.
At 1:47 the pro says it's important to get the horizontal positioning of the two bolts just so, which is a problem if the studs aren't just so. Did I miss it, or did he neglect to say how he deals with the case where one of the studs isn't behind where he wants the bolt to go?
Also, why is it a problem if the bolt is placed in a stud that's a few inches away from the optimal position? I don't see why it's a problem if the weight of the load on the two bolts isn't divided equally.
Unless the weight is balanced, the picture will pull down on one end of the wire more than the other and eventually end up crooked.
@@TedHopp : Are you claiming the wire will stretch over time, and stretch significantly more on the side that has a little more than half the weight? My intuition is that the horizontal position can be off by several inches without any problem... much less shifting over time than a picture hung from a single bolt or nail.
It's probably possible to compensate for a horizontal asymmetry by also arranging for a vertical difference of the two bolts. If one bolt is slightly higher than the other, I think it will bear a little more of the weight than if both are at the same height. But calculating the optimal height difference based on the amount of horizontal asymmetry would take some basic physics (classical mechanics), which I haven't done in many years..
@@brothermine2292 It's not so much shifting to one side or the other, but tilting. No stretching is involved, just that the wires will slide across the screws/hooks toward the side that has more weight. When you first hang it, friction keeps everything in place. But any little vibration (door closing, someone walking heavily, etc.) will shake the wire a little bit and let it move ever so slightly. After a few weeks, you have a visibly crooked hanging.
@@TedHopp : If that's a real possibility, why not put a drop of glue on the topside of the bolts, just before hanging the frame on them?
@@brothermine2292 Because you want to be able to take down the picture easily?
The butterfly anchors are not great for this application. They are for things that don’t need a hook because they have to be sucked tight. So they are good for things like TP holders. Amazon does sell ones that have a hook integrated into the screw head. The plastic butterfly one is not great either- I have found that plastic anchors get brittle over time and are only good for light loads. The best ones are screw in threaded anchors that can hang off of drywall and if they are metal that can go into a stud- no need for a stud finder. The ones at Home Depot can hold up to 80 pounds. You usually don’t have to worry about them pulling out because the weight is vertical, not pulling out on the wall.
The mirrors and heavy artwork that I've seen warn against using wire for hanging. I use a laser level for my vertical standard and measure from the side wall or other object where i want the edge and mark the spot with a marker on painters tape. I then lift the frame, with a d-ring attached, using a small screw through a paint stirrer up to the laser line and side mark on the tape. When in place, press the frame against the wall forcing the screw protruding from the paint stirrer to mark the wall for setting my anchor. Once one side is attached, move the paint stirrer to the other side and raise it to the laser beam and press the frame to the wall. Remove the frame and set your second anchor point. Then hang your perfectly level and centered frame. Repeat anywhere around the room that you want a frame before talking down your laser level for a room full of perfectly level and secure art.
Don't really like to hang anything by those wires on the back. If possible I'll just rest the frame of the item directly onto the screws. Agree with everything else in the video
Isn't that literally the purpose of the wire? That seems very insecure
I’ve done this myself. The frames can easily pop right off the screw head. But with the wire, the wire is caught behind the screw head and the picture won’t fall.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
It baffles me how many people are trusting stud location based on a Drywaller. What if you find a seam? Then your center is off. Drywall can be thrown up so haphazardly I'd never trust it unless I hung it all myself.
Who cares
@@mattbergman2788 Your mom.
@@benzam6218😂
Yeah, absolutely never trust a drywaller 🫤
I'm sure there are plenty of great drywallers out there, but if I'm hanging something big and expensive on my walls, I'm certainly NOT going to trust someone else's fastener location is correct. The same reason I check every stud location rather than just measuring 16" on center. If I'm hanging a 100lb flat screen TV I want to make sure my lags are in the center of the stud and not off to the side. @@myronferguson4777
magnets to find stud, 'for forty years... hu'
👍
The problem with this method is you can get it level, or centered. Or a little of each, but not both unless you are very, very good.
Yeah, The one thing I didn't mention was that the screws have to be level with each other as well as properly placed from the edges of the doors.
In Australia, house frames are increasingly of metallic construction. That means the traditional method of screwing into studs is not an option.
Use fine thread drywall screws. How do you think drywall gets attached to those studs?
@@maxwellgriffith are they self drilling and self tapping into metallic studs?
@@robsalvv5853 yes, they’re just normal fine thread screws specifically for drywall
czcams.com/video/xWN9YCAfgxo/video.htmlsi=lflFkiS9riHvgbzs
@@robsalvv5853 yep. Fine thread drywall screws will penetrate those thin metal studs.
Ok first off wires for anything "heavy" are a terrible idea...it should have d rings installed on the frame instead to take the weight. Also why measure from the top down? You wanted it higher than the light switch so you should of measured up from that. Trusting screws too is hilarious. On so many new home builds I see them all over the place, almost never on center of the stud. A professional would have a deep wall scanner to locate studs and live electrical lines. For $30 it is a great investment for DIY, plus lets be honest those small magnets will probably get lost or misplaced then you get a second set and it is the same price as the wall scanner.