Testing hydroelectric shift gearcase on a Evinrude 50 hp 1972
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- čas přidán 19. 01. 2021
- This shows how to bench test a OMC hydroelectric gearcase. This gearcase is for sale at Pine Lake Parts 855-313-3280. Since the drive shaft has to rotate to test, I am using a drill motor and a battery to energize the gearcase.
I just pulled a boat with a 71 50hp Evinrude Lark with the hydroelectric shift out of a shed where’s it’s been stored for 23 years. It starts and runs. Now I get to test the shift mechanisms. When it was put away it had a problem with not staying in neutral. When shifting from forward to neutral it would go on into reverse or pop out of reverse. My mother in law isn’t sure which it was & my father in law passed away before I could find out for sure. Looks like I’ll be doing a lot of testing to figure it out.
If I have the lower unit pulled how can I ground it and test this way the frost time I dropped my lower unit didn’t know u could disconnect the wires up top and took the cover and rod out and now it won’t go into neutral or reverse
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and the explanatory videos, it has helped me a lot with my 1969 evinrude, I wanted to ask you, if there is any replacement for the original oil since I am from Argentina and here it is possible to get an original one. From already thank you very much.
Thanks for the comments, I am glad it helped. The oil is available here but I am not licensed to ship it. I have not researched an alternative because of that. Here is something you may look for. I did a repair on an expensive electric submerged pump a 7 years back. When I opened it up it was oil filled with a very similar oil to type c omc oil. I refilled the motor with Marine gearcase type c and it is still working great today. Maybe if you find a business that services electric motors they can provide some of the oil for those motors to use. Pat
I have a 1971 like that. Do you just remove the bolts on the lower unit and it comes right off or is there something else I need to do? I want to replace the impeller.
My husband, Pat, is super busy and I'm sure he hasn't seen your question yet. But I heard him answer this for another customer on a different motor. Besides the bolts you can see you also have to remove the trim tab/anode, round with fin. Underneath there is another screw to remove there. He also said something about detaching the shift rod, but this one is electric shift so I believe there is a lead to detach that goes from the solenoid in the lower unit up into the upper part of the motor. After doing that the gearcase should slide right off for you. Shelly
Hey Pat, I just bought a 1972 Johnson Hydroelectric shift and my motor spins in neutral. This video might help me figure it out but I do want to get a little more info before I do anything. Is there another number we could reach you at?
new number is 269-347-0014
Sorry for the wrong number and late reply. We changed our number to 269-347-0014.
What size socket was that?
You probably will not find a socket that fits it perfect. I do not remember what size I used but here is the trick. Work your way up in socket size until you hit the 1st one that slides over the shaft. Then take a small roll pin, bearing needle or cotter pin and push it up under the socket in the valley of a spline and turn. It should catch then. Wrap a piece of tape around the base of the socket to hold it in. Then you can turn the shaft without damaging the splines.
Is it ran off the pressure with the gear fluid for the solenoids on the lower unit or did the solenoids just act as a actuator to pull up and down for the gears
Good question and I cannot guarantee I have the correct answer. It takes both the solenoids to activate and to have the hydraulic pressure for the gearcase to function properly. I do not think the solenoids are strong enough to move and hold the shifting of the gearcase. So I believe the solenoids set the shift dog position and the hydraulic locks it to that position.
@@pinelakeparts heres what i found
(Hydro Electric Shift)The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear. In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire. In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
So is it in forward gear all the time until it's cranking? I could image it would be so it can pump the fluid
The gearcases default in forward so if the system breaks down, the boat can still be driven back to its docking spot. The 1st solenoid pulls the shaft to neutral and the 2nd solenoid takes it from neutral to reverse. You cannot activate the reverse solenoid and have it work if you are in forward. That is why you have to have 12 volts to both solenoids to test reverse. The engine has to be running or the driveshaft turning like I did with a drill so the hydraulic pump in the gearcase builds pressure. Without the hydraulic pressure, it will not shift.
@@pinelakeparts geez what a headache this is why I like my Merc alright so if the prop does not spin in My lever in neutral and if I'm cranking the motor over it should engage while cranking into neutral? And if I stop cranking it's back the same way where the prop is locked up in forward right? It sounds like that plunger is what makes it go into neutral while cranking because the plunger has to pump to build pressure 2 engaging into neutral
Not sure I understand your question. If you are shifted to neutral or have engaged that solenoid and you are cranking the engine and the prop is not turning then the gearcase shifted properly to neutral.
Are the selonoids reparable if not working ?
I suppose it is possible but I do not know anyone who does it. You can check if the plunger moves freely inside the solenoid and fix that if needed. I have seen other solenoids that got too hot and melted some material into the plunger opening and stopping the solenoid from working. Good used solenoids are available at very reasonable prices compared to the dealer price for a new one,...If you could find a new one at a dealer.
@@pinelakeparts agreed! Plunger is lose I had to reinsert before putting it down in its place. Neutral and reverse still not working after cleaning it and putting it back together. I might do it again or give up and buy a used pair (over $100) online. Motor starts easy and has lots of years in her.
@@lmt-adventures620 I would suggest giving me a call before you buy both solenoids. I am pretty sure I still have a pair and I would do $75 for the pair. I guess I would like to go through the key points to make sure you really need the solenoids.
@@pinelakeparts Sounds good, I will be conducting more test to ensure wires are good and not jeopardizing my entire troubleshoot. Meanwhile please do locate the pair you got because I’m going to need it but will call soon.
@@pinelakeparts I decided to cut the green&blue wires inches from the solenoids and performed a table test and long bells they are kicking strong. Before when tested same wires from head using same method it would move at all. Maybe my wires are bad somewhere in midsection going up. I will be replacing wires and put it back together with proper oil and update after that, wish me luck.