How can we build a footer that is above the frost line?
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2022
- This is a time and money saver if you live in a cold climate where you are required to build below a frost line to protect you foundation from frost heave. We are building a ICF Nudura foundation for a new home. The home will be built on short stem walls with a radiant heated concrete slab for the floor. This is a new project so stay tuned for more videos of this build.
Came onto your channel because I'm looking to do a Red Iron Metal Building and was checking concrete work and you showed up. Happy you did....love the channel and content. New Sub here. Thank You Mark in Florida.
Nice work brother. Keep the videos coming.👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You should start explaining why things are done the way they are and maybe the differences. This would make it more educational.
If you have good drainage under the footing and drain tile around the footing with the drain tile covered with stone and filter fabric or hay on top of the stone to keep the dirt from filling the voids in the stone up, you won't have water or wet dirt under the foundation to heave it up. Then you put you 2" foam board sloped away from the foundation to further shed the water, then put a good compactable dirt one or more feet thick onto of the foam sloped away from the foundation.
The foundation drain tile/pipe should not be the black coil crap, use schedule 20 or 40 perforated pipe with the holes down and make sure it slopes away from the foundation.
Another thing not to do within 4 or 5' from the foundation is plant shrubs or trees. Their roots will grow right into the perimeter drain and clog it up.
There are garages, roads and driveways built all of the time with no "footing" below the frost line. If the drainage is right, there won't be any water to freeze so there is no heaving.
I live in Maine and have been building 46 years and we have never had a problem building this way.
Even if you have a foundation below the frost line, you have to do the drainage right and keep shrubs away from the foundation.
Another thing to think about is if this method didn't work, you couldn't get a building permit.
Me and you are definitely on the same page. That is exactly how I do these foundations 👍
@@bondobuilt386 We'd get along great on a job. I was always taught that you build on the ground or under the ground. It's all about the drainage.
I have talked to people who are going to build a house and said to them to get good drainage. Use lots of stone and pipe and take it to daylight. Use the best pipe and keep plants with big roots away from the foundation. Lots of times they replay with it's too expensive. If you don't have a good foundation, roof and weathertight walls, why bother building new.
@@royordway9157 does that go for fences as well?
I’m looking to put up a fence but don’t want to dig my fourth fence posts down 42 inches.
Or I was thinking putting a concrete retaining wall along the property line about 18” high then building the fence on top of that.
With the retaining wall have to be 42 inches down as well?
or could I just dig a shallow trench put some rock and then pour concrete on top so the concrete is only like 6 inches below the surface and sticks up above the surface 1ft?
Totally agree that drainage is crucial.
Out of curiosity, why would have face the perforated pipe holes downward?
In landscaping, we always face the holes upward so that the water can drain into them, then the slope of the pipe itself ensures that the water drains as desired.
That's the purpose the holes in the first place.
Good job 👍
Here comes the mud 👍,that's when I hit the like 👍 🎯
Thanks
I did the same thing , but dug by hand and cement mixer on a double wide house for skiter
Looking forward to the next bit of the frost protected foundation trick with the "wing insulation" technique. I bookemarled your other vid on it and will show all your "wing insulation" technique vids to the carpenter and ICF contractor before the ICF extension will allegedly be build come Spring 2023. Do you think it is over kill having wing insulation for an ICF full basement wall and where all the ICF above ground wall goes right up to where the trussus will be placed? Same as you, 4 foot rule for frost here on Prince Edward Island, just up North from you. Researching wing insulation techniques points out a 4 degree slant of the 2 or 4 foot "wing" so water runs away from the side of the basement wall. Keeping that wall and soil around it dry is very important. Also, it is the geothermal heat that gets trapped under the angled wing insulation that also helps keep the ground dry and warm. A 2 foot deep wing insulation starts at the wall and with the slope the end of the wing is deeper. I guess frost travels at a 30 degree angle? True or have you read differently? Why I am mentioning this is because it would be advantageous to use your idea of making sure the wing is very long, like 4 feet instead of 2. Cheers from Atlantic Canada. Really appreciate your video's and making sure we see how rebar is wired properly etc. 💯👍🙏🇨🇦
Hey Bondo love the channel been doing concrete for 6 ish years so don’t have the experience you have. I have a question tho why do you put your spreaders on before the re bar?? Wouldn’t it be easier to throw the bar in there and bend the corners then do the spreaders to tie up too? Let me know why you do the process you do please no judgement just wondering?!? We pound re barb dowels into the ground and tie the bar to the dowels and then do spreaders after words lmk why you do it the way you do. thanks again and love the channel keep it up!!
Ronny… keep us posted. Well , back to rebar protector production. Thanks
In michigan we only need to go down 14" below grade with 5.7 R value, no foam needs to be laid flat. Our frost/freeze protection is normally 42" on a conventional footing.
do you check soil condition , if it needs some compactor love ?
Do you use veritcal rebar too tie in the walls ?
there u go bondo, sliding in, looks good from indy. nah real talk nice job
Thanks bud
If my footing is below the required grade for my county, is there anything I can put on top of the footers to make to above frost line?
So the foam prevents the cold from the air freezing the ground? It doesn't freeze at all where the foam is?
Nice What's the width and depth of the footer 10"x24"? Thanks.
what part of ny state? How deep is the frost line over there?
Here comes the muuud!! Lol that was an awesome commercial
Bruce the Doberman!
I'm from Elmira. did concrete in Phx sizzle, sizzle
We got two dogs with us today Rotor and Rooter, and we can smell the mud.
LOL
ever used concrete from a volumetric mixer?
Y is grass in the garage side and not in the house side
Why would they allow it to not be as deep just because of foam on the outside perimeter? Is that because theoretically it should hold heat within in the winter? How thick is the foam?
2" foam and basically the foam takes the place of all that dirt and stops the frost from penetrating and heaving the footer.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the response. Think you could do a video on that part? It's kinda hard to believe that it would actually do anything. If I saw the full concept I might get it though. Where the foam is actually placed and how it's oriented to stop frost from penetrating?
@@jamesrogers4674 czcams.com/video/1_IiYCk_WNk/video.html
I have made a build series on frost protected foundation.
Y is grass in the garage side not the house side
☝🏽 you should have panned out some of that dirt you dug out ☝🏽 you know damn well there should be some gold in there 🤤
Why didn't they scrape down the top soil before digging a trench around it?
The homeowner thought he got it all but the garage had a little he missed
Have you tried the micro rebar stuff instead of rebar?
No where near as strong as true 1/2" bar. It's not worth the pennies you'd save in cost.
@@pacodefrancis7235 is this a true statement? Also the key benefit is perhaps not having it rust out because it’s stainless steel and it’s way earlier to install.
@@AKatawazi2 you do not want to put stainless in a foundation. You want galvanized
Can I ask why not use Helical Piles and pour on that? Helical pile would be below frost line
I never have done it that way. Sounds interesting though. This house foundation was engineered this way and I followed the drawings.
It saves a ton of time and work . Magic Mike and his "Pepsi " . I have been friends with Mike for years.
@@cdpexcavatingservicesllc714 Yup he likes those Pepsis LOL
These are the types of videos, that get me going with making my own CZcams videos !
Awesome 🖐
Aww, how cute
I would not like to work for a disturbed customer. I did not watch that video, because I have enough problems. But yes, not working for an abusive customer is the right thing to do.
Thanks you should watch it. Its a good story.
at $50 a sheet for ground-rated 2" blueboard you're not saving that much money haha. And yes oh yes, those rocks are much like what you find here in Central VT when we dig foundations. That's why i prefer a floating haunched edge slab. Very sturdy and stable with a foam curtain
He didn’t bother removing the overburden?
The overburden was stripped after the walls were poured and before it was backfilled and floors were poured.
Why don t you use Helix micro rebar to save time,labor.
Micro-rebar works in walls, but I believe the foundation really needs traditional rebar. I believe the same is true for reinforcing above openings and other spans. You certainly wouldn't want the foundation to fail and loose its ability to carry the load.
@@cornpop7805 Helix micro rebar has been used in slabs and foundations and is stronger than traditional rebar. Check out the stats on it.
@@ToddBizCoach
Perhaps you're right...
Why not just go down 4 feet and never have to worry about insulation failing?
Ur one of the main reasons why I started my CZcams channel sir !
spam spam spam
@@stevejobs3559 😄
What app do you use ? I use iMovie and this is how my videos come out like
I use iMovie as well bud
I take it there are no earthquakes in that part of the country?
no we do not get them here
i believe the foam board will eventually become water logged and loose it's insulative quality
Lose
Footings
We for real need to make a collaboration! That be so awesome ! 🤙🏼
yes it would.
Frost will push that pea stone off to the side in end fail on our side walls and foundation
Ya that shoulda all been compacted before framing.
Because they are using the tried and true (FPSF) Frost Protected Shallow Foundation (Nordic method), frost will never make it anywhere near the foundation.
@@cornpop7805 idk cornpop. Pea gravel isn't a good material for compaction. Better off with a dense pack and a plate compactor to prep the trench vs tossing some gravel after the fact. At best the pea gravel will just blend with the soil and mostly disappear. It's just like ball bearings or marbles.
@@KingSobieski
I'm not saying it's the right choice of gravel, but I suspect it does have to be free draining because I believe the goal is to quickly rid water from under the footer. It's basically a french drain under the footer that has to see daylight in order to evacuate the water quickly. The above insulation keeps the shallow ground from loosing the heat that is present a lower depths. Together, the insulation, the French drain, and the higher temperatures at deaper depths protect the shallow foundation from seeing frost.
@@cornpop7805 crushed rock drains the same as round rock
that is a big footer. more yards than my slab
yes it was a big one.
Ur inspiration boss, you inspire me to keep going with my CZcams videos
This type of foundation is new but old and has many issues
What are these issue Kevin? If the wing is 4 feet long then frost will not have a chance to get under neath and the soil under the wing will be dry so therefore no wetness means no frost heaving issues. Make the wing insulation 4 feet{not only 2 feet) and 4 degree angle to get any wetness to drain away from the wall, and plus the angle will help trap the geothermal heat further helping to keep the ground dry. We shall see what he does in his next video. Lots of work and paying attention to detail to get all this work done! Whoosh!! Cheers from Atlantic Canada.👍🇨🇦
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs We also put a perimeter drain along the footer and take that to daylight
@@bondobuilt386 Yes, always a drain just in case and to daylight quite a bit a ways from the building foundation. You are the pro Bondo!💯🙏🇨🇦
Styrofoam
Frost lines must be adjusted for climate change, 36 inches in New Jersey should be reduced to 12 inches.
Surely you're kidding about adjusting foundation depths, based on such a farce?