Looks like a Suzuki motorcycle alternator 3 phase electromagnetic system. The stater Windings should be 8 to 10k Typically it's the rubber Drive that has a tendency to strip out on them.
How did you get the main shaft and bearing out ? You show us you hitting it with the hammer then next it’s all separate? Just curious, have new bearings to fit to the fzr 1000 gen alternator, pretty much the same alternator, also did the main drive originally have a insulated painted tip where you got it with the hammer ? As it does on the fzr , but did it on the Fz ? As looking at yours it seems broken off ? Or hammered off either way would be cool if you could let us know or see it coming apart 2:27
Good question. It's been a while so I don't remember, but looking at the video I did indeed probably damage that piece of insulation while pushing the axle out of that outer casing. I think if you have a hydraulic press and a suitable adapter it is possible to drive it out without damaging it. I'll see if I can find the raw videos to see exactly what I did. Thanks for your comment.
@@jh-tech5546 that would be amazing , no press unfortunately but have bearing push pull that may fit , but dunno , will look to your raw footage if you can find it , thanks for checking
@ross2 I have checked but have no footage of me taking out the rotor. I see several months have passed between the initial disassembly and the next part where I remove the stator. I probably used a punch or other metal part to drive it out. Not the best idea. I think I would first heat the casing around the bearing before driving the shaft out. Maybe using a socket that has the same outer diameter as the shaft of a softer material like brass or copper can prevent the damage.
@@jh-tech5546 thanks for checking , was worth a shot , agreed on heating the seat , wondering if a bearing pull around the alternator housing and screwing it through may work also , me thinks it’s time to play and test very softly, thanks for the help !
Hi. The product is called flux and is used when soldering copper pipes. It allows the tin to flow better. But I think the trick is to use a powerfull soldering Iron. Mine is 80W. Good luck.
Hi. not sre if I can give you a good answer here. I would say to first have a look at the windings. If they look burned I think there is nothing you can do. If they still look ok there might be an issue with the connection of the winding tot the copper rings on the axle. You might check that. Good luck.
Kawasaki ZZR1100C. Their identical. Perfectly identical. "Edited" I do believe their made by a company called Nippon Denso. Originally part of Toyota before going it alone. Their parts (Alternators) are in a lot of the Jap bikes.
Good job! I hate when I spend a bunch of time trying to figure out what's wrong with what I'm doing, only to find out...it was me all along!
Thanks! Same for me but afterwards I am glad I learned from it.
Looks like a Suzuki motorcycle alternator 3 phase electromagnetic system. The stater Windings should be 8 to 10k
Typically it's the rubber Drive that has a tendency to strip out on them.
They are probably similar. However, no rubber drive dampers on the FZ.
GREAT VIDEO - I NEEDED THIS VIDEO - TO WORK ON MY AC GEN TODAY - THANK YOU 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Hola me podras vender un alternador de kawasaki boyager ll 1200cc mod 2001 asta mexico compre uno en amazon y no me genera carga en baja revoluciones
How did you get the main shaft and bearing out ? You show us you hitting it with the hammer then next it’s all separate? Just curious, have new bearings to fit to the fzr 1000 gen alternator, pretty much the same alternator, also did the main drive originally have a insulated painted tip where you got it with the hammer ? As it does on the fzr , but did it on the Fz ? As looking at yours it seems broken off ? Or hammered off either way would be cool if you could let us know or see it coming apart 2:27
Good question. It's been a while so I don't remember, but looking at the video I did indeed probably damage that piece of insulation while pushing the axle out of that outer casing. I think if you have a hydraulic press and a suitable adapter it is possible to drive it out without damaging it. I'll see if I can find the raw videos to see exactly what I did. Thanks for your comment.
@@jh-tech5546 that would be amazing , no press unfortunately but have bearing push pull that may fit , but dunno , will look to your raw footage if you can find it , thanks for checking
@ross2 I have checked but have no footage of me taking out the rotor. I see several months have passed between the initial disassembly and the next part where I remove the stator. I probably used a punch or other metal part to drive it out. Not the best idea. I think I would first heat the casing around the bearing before driving the shaft out. Maybe using a socket that has the same outer diameter as the shaft of a softer material like brass or copper can prevent the damage.
@@jh-tech5546 thanks for checking , was worth a shot , agreed on heating the seat , wondering if a bearing pull around the alternator housing and screwing it through may work also , me thinks it’s time to play and test very softly, thanks for the help !
Hey hello just a question I can't unsolder the connections which product do you use?
Hi. The product is called flux and is used when soldering copper pipes. It allows the tin to flow better. But I think the trick is to use a powerfull soldering Iron. Mine is 80W. Good luck.
so we didn't refresh the screws and nuts?
Is there anything that can be done if the rotor windings read open (as in ∞ Ω)?
Hi. not sre if I can give you a good answer here. I would say to first have a look at the windings. If they look burned I think there is nothing you can do. If they still look ok there might be an issue with the connection of the winding tot the copper rings on the axle. You might check that. Good luck.
Suzuki gsxf
FZ 750 but probably similar to GSX series.
@@jh-tech5546 yes you are rigth, its similar yo gsxf
Kawasaki ZZR1100C. Their identical. Perfectly identical.
"Edited"
I do believe their made by a company called Nippon Denso. Originally part of Toyota before going it alone.
Their parts (Alternators) are in a lot of the Jap bikes.