Ford 4R70W Series Transmissions: Fluid & Filter Change
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- These are the tools and parts needed to complete the job:
Transmission Fluid (note this unit took 5qts to refill)-
Up to 2008-
amzn.to/2dHDCHS
2009 and Newer-
amzn.to/2cTSS7S
Transmission Filter-
amzn.to/2dqxXbk
Extra Capacity Drain Pan-
amzn.to/2dZtmhs
Fluid Fill Funnel-
amzn.to/2dQc4jM
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2dqytX5
1/4" Impact I use-
amzn.to/2d15fgM
Fluid Pan Torque Spec- 120 inch lbs
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I change my tranny fluid (2003 ) Ford Expy. every 40,00 miles. Changed the filter first time and installed a B&M drain plug kit in the pan. 254,000 miles later, the tranny shifts like new. I also pull a 22' Sea Ray boat and open car trailer W/ 67 Fairlane on board. If you take care of them, they"ll take care of you. My father spoke those words years ago, words of wisdom.
EXCELLENT! Our 4R7s will keep us out of a new car note thats for sure!
Someone once said a PROFESSIONAL, is somebody that makes the difficult appear esay. If that's true,YOU SIR ARE INDEED A PROFESSIONAL!
Certainly not based on this video, alone,but on the ENTIRETY of your channel!
I for one cannot THANK YOU ENOUGH!
Yeah,kind comments are small compensation for the MASSIVE INFORMATION THAT YOU FREELY PROVIDE!
MANY MANY THANKS,TO YOU ,SIR!!
I just drained my 4R70W and torque converter out of my 1998 Explorer XLT AWD 5.0L V8. I took out 11 quarts total including what was in the torque converter. I installed a FT105 Motorcraft tranny filter, cleaned the tranny pan, cleaned magnet, torqued all tranny bolts @ 10 ft pounds, then filled it until it was good. Trucks shifts very firm now! Thank you!
Any trick to getting it out of the torque converter? Thanks in advance!
@@johnonthecooldoe6338 There is a plastic inspection plug on the bellhousing just in front of the pan. Take that off and have someone bump the starter while you watch from the bottom to see when the plug lines up with the inspection hole. On my 302 F150 I could not get the plug lined up with the hole using the starter - I put a socket on the harmonic balancer nut and tuned the engine over that way. Remove the drain plug and let it drain - give it plenty of time (about an hour). When you reinstall the plug use some loctight,. When refilling I pour in 5 quarts, start the engine and pour in 6 more quarts with the engine running. Thats when I start checking the oil - I will even drive it to get it good and hot for an accurate measurement. My F150 took exactly 13 quarts - per spec its only supposed to take 12- and that's from dry.
I really appreciate these videos/walk throughs. They have really helped me with maintaining my 04 F150. Thanks for sharing these videos to help guys like me who have the ability and willingness to get dirty and do it yourself (it also saves time and money not having to take it to a shop). Thanks again bro!
Just bought a 05 150 w/ 139,000 miles. Followed your video and everything was spot on. Thank you for taking your time to share this video.
Thanks for all the great info on your videos, I changed my transmission fluid in my '04 Ford Expedition with 196,000 miles on it & that original yellow dip stick tube stopper was in pan meaning it had never been done & it runs fine, no different than before, I had no issues just wanted to keep up service, I've always heard not to change it with so many miles on it but thanks to your advice I did it & I'm happy it's done, thanks again & keep those videos coming
I'm going thru the same thing right now with a 05 f150 I got with 230 k needing engine rebuilt , before putting the motor back in want to see if I'm able to do some type of transmission fluid an filter change without ruining the transmission an torque converter . The trans fluid is brown at 230k I'm scared to open it up an change it .
That’s because Ford made a damn good decision putting the magnet in the bottom of the pan.
I didn’t exactly follow this video to the T since I have experience in doing a few “old school” US domestic car automatic transmission fluid, filter and pan drop service. I did my 98 Ford Crown Vic ATF service recently. It is factory equipped with a 4R70W automatic transmission. I dropped the pan, washed out the pan and circle magnet with a shop parts wash machine, and then button it up. Rather than 4.5 quarts, i put 4.3 quarts worth of Motorcraft Mercon V ATF. Drove the car for over 10 miles, parked it on leveled surface, shift each gears back and forth about 20 seconds each position, let it idle for 5 minutes in park and check the level. It was ON THE MONEY!
Results: a happy car owner and wont have to do this service until the next 30K miles 👍🏼
👏 🏆 🔧 This is the best tutorial for the Panther platform trans oil and filter change. The narration and explanation are excellent, the camera work was great (tripod!), and there was no annoying and distracting metal/techno/rap "music" blasting in the background. This is a professional-looking production that walks the novice through the process. Thank you for the superb work, FordTech.
This here is the key to a long lasting transmission,i do mine religiously in all my cars,my oldest transmission was overhauled in 98,still smooth as it can be,not dogging your car and pretending your at the Daytona 500 also helps a lot.
Thanks just did this!! First time ever doing a trans drop. 1.5 hours start to all cleaned up. Thanks to this technique I didn't get any fluid on me. Get big pecies of cardboard down and a big pan . Easy repair . 5 quarts almost exactly came out
How many quarts do you poor back?
Thank you
I have been taking care of a couple of my customers Ford vehicles over the years and I have found your videos extremely helpful in doing the job the right way. Thank you. Richards "Mobile" Auto and Air
Seriously great guide man. Very detailed and you showed every step of the process.
I use fishing line and lightly tie the gasket to the pan through one pan bolt hole on each side(or corners) to keep the gasket aligned while lifting into place. Then start some of my bolts to hang the pan, then cut the fishing line, remove and replace remaining bolts. Just make sure to tie the knots on the outer side of the pan so when cut no line remains inside pan.
Another great video. Educating the masses with expert advice/routine maintenance. Doesn't get any better than this.
Thanks for this! Found the little yellow plug.... you solved the mystery for me!
I just did mine 2 months ago at 73k. I used a suction pump to remove the fluid in the pan and dropped it. Besides the filter, there wasn’t much fluid after. I also used the Dorman pan with the drain plug so it’s going to be much easier next time
How’s that pan holding up? I am considering doing the same when I do mine. Another CZcamsr said his had warped and started leaking.
@@WalterMelons I actually traded it in and got me a Toyota solara convertible. I never had any problems with it to the very end of my ownership so I guess it worked for me. I put 10k after that review as I traded it in with 83k.
Draining the torque converter is very simple on these transmissions. You can see the round indented rubber plug on the bottom of the bell housing. Pull it then turn the converter with a screwdriver until you see a bolt. Unscrew the bolt and be ready for about 8 to 9 quarts to empty. Put bolt back in. Fill up with 4 quarts and start engine for 30 seconds. Turn off and add 4 more. Start engine for 30 seconds. Add 3 more and turn on engine. Add balance of oil as needed.
I heard people draining the converter by disconnecting the feed line to radiator and starting the engine! But no sure about that, for how long, tho? I'm sure you can damage the trany that way! What do you think?
any links to a video ?
I really want to do that next time
Only possible on older gen. '03+ does NOT have a T/C drain plug, they decontented that in mid '01.
at least on the Panther platform.
anybody know the torque specs on the torque converter? I have a 98 with the 4.2 engine. Thanks!
Awesome video! This makes me confident in doing the filter and fluid change myself.
Completed the job with my son and I. Good learning experience for him. 2002 F150 216K miles. I found the little yellow plug in the pan. Magnet was covered, but not excessively. Last transmission “flush” by a Ford dealer at 112K in 2010. Paid $169, so I think they flush without removing the pan. Not happy about this. Wonder what I paid for???? Same dealer did a “flush” at 55K. Sorry and I waited this long as I am religious about changing the engine oil every 3K since I’ve owned it at 45K miles. Thank you. I hope you are getting some great residuals from your postings.
Picked up a cheap fluid extractor at Princess Auto and sucked as much fluid out as I could before starting, helped me save my shirt from destruction haha.
This guy is awesome
I watched this just to find out what that plug was. Thank you for another great video!
Great tutorial! I just bought a 2002 F150 with 241K on the odometer and changed the fluid according to these instructions. It still had the yellow plug!
Yikes, how bad did the fluid look?
@@JohnnyReb2000 wasn’t too bad. Got flushed around 160k according to the sticker under the hood, power flush I’m guessing!
@@JKRhodes, so the transmission on your truck was flushed at least once, but never had the pan dropped to change the filter until you did it. That's good to know. I bought my 2001 F-150 with about 210k mile almost 2 years ago, and checking the transmission fluid recently, I noticed it's about time to change it. It doesn't look/smell burnt, but it's not clean either. It has about 235k miles now. I don't know how many times the fluid has been flushed or changed, but I'm thinking it was probably done at least once. Needless to say, it's probably a good idea that I go ahead and change the fluid and filter soon
You guys are so good. So REALLY REALLY good. Thank you for what you do. I worshiped DieselTech Ron and still watch his videos occasionally but I've kind of got my 6.0 beat into submission and it doesn't surprise me too often. For gas jobs you're the go-to guys. Thank you.
Thank you for the excellent explanation of installing a new filter. I would have had a heart attack if I found that factory plug in the bottom of the pan without knowing what it is. I have two CVPIs that I want to change the filters on. Now I'm ready to go! Thanks again!
That was the absolute BEST maintenance video I've ever seen... Nice work!
Awesome and professional quality video. Greatly appreciate your time and efforts producing Ford maintenance and repair videos. I own a 2007 Ford F150 and a 2010 Ford Mustang GT.
You are a really good mocanic illustrator.
I'm not a mechanic by any means but I know how to turn a wrench. thank you for this video and all the other videos you have. I bought another 07 F150 FX4 and just did this transmission service this morning. Running much smoother. Thanks man!
Best Ford Vids on CZcams by far. Nice job (s). Just wish you had more on the 4.6 Thunderturds...
The 4R70/75 is a great transmission. Very reliable and a long life. I like to disconnect the cooler line at the radiator, start the engine and let it pump out a few quarts before dropping the pan. It eliminates the waterfall and associated mess if it misses the drain pan. Speaking from experience...lol
I have 169k on my 2009 crown vic police interceptor. Fluid looks brown. Should I change it or leave it alone?
@@roberth912 I would change it, but in a multi-step process. Drain a couple of quarts, top it back off and drive it for 500 miles or so. Repeat the process several times with about 500 miles between each step until the fluid looks clean. If there is any dirt/debris, it should slowly loosen it up and work it's way down to the filter. After it's looking clean, drop the pan, clean the magnet, put in a new filter and top it off. The 4R75 isn't nearly as sensitive as others to contamination, but I would still spread out the flush procedure to avoid breaking up a bunch of dirt all at once.
@@stevejohnson5837 yeah thats what I was sorta thinking. So mine has the 4r75w or e? I heard mixed answers from people but you seem to know these cars/transmissions.
@@stevejohnson5837 yep my grandfather pointed that out about how fast the fluid darkens.. Strange. How many miles are on your trans?
@@roberth912 I just looked it up in the service manual, it is a 4R75E. I think the W versions were typically used in the trucks. Yours uses Mercon LV fluid. Total capacity is 12.8 quarts on the police applications. The filter should be the same between the E and W versions. The pan gasket is re-useable and the pan bolts should be torqued to 124 inch/pounds in a crisscross pattern. After a pan drop and filter change, add about 5 quarts of fluid to begin with, drive it for 20-30 minutes to warm up the fluid and slowly bring the level up to about the middle of the crosshatch range. The fluid expands a lot with temperature increases, so don't fill it all the way to the top of the range.
Nice job with the operation Dr. Makuloco
Thanks!
I remember being a dumb kid at 17 and doing the first service on my 2007 F-150 with the 4R75E transmission at 60,000 miles. I put a whopping 9 quarts in before I checked it because I didn't realize the 13.9 quart capacity was WITH the torque converter drained out. I even drove it like that for a few hundred miles before I bought to siphon pump to suck out the excess. It blew transmission fluid out of the fill tube all over the underneath of truck and coated the frame. Shifted hard, too. Whenever I would accelerate hard, I could see steam under the truck from trans fluid blowing all over the exhaust, lol. Not a 1,000 IQ thing to do. Never hurt anything, thankfully. Still doing fine at 208k miles.
LOL! Reminds me of a time I thought I was low on trans fluid and over filled my oil pan with lucas trans fluid by putting it down the oil dip stick tube... got real confused in a panic. had mad smoke burning off and had to crack my oil drain plug to let id drip out slowly in a parking lot to get it to operating levels. ahh being an idiot and driving old vehicles. those were the days.
Love your videos... I have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6 and feel like I can rebuild the engine with your videos... Thank you...
Thanks for your videos. I’ve successfully replaced a lower ball joint on my 08 f150 and when my parts and equipment arrive I will be doing this exact service within the next week
I'm doing this job tomorrow. great video. 👍
Going to do my 2003 Crown vic today or tomorrow not sure yet. Thanks for a great video sir. I appreciate it.
Just did mine today, first time in 20 years, and my truck has 195,800. Had to come looking to see how bad mine was compared to videos. My pan and magnet, filter, and valve body was a thick slurry of metal. Truck shifts and drives so much better
Good morning I have to ask since I'm attempting to do a fluid an filter change an I hear don't replace all the fluid or replace it all , mine is at 230k never felt the truck shift due to bought it with motor having to be rebuilt almost ready to put motor back in , trans fluid on the stick is brown at 230k . Is yours still holding up or has it failed ?
2004 F150 and up 4x4 quick tip, let all the transmission fluid leak into your transfer case, then drain and replace input shaft seal before changing filter and fluid. At least it has a drain plug! :P
Thank you so much I couldn’t figure out what on earth that yellow plug was 🤦♂️...I’m actually upgrading my transmission pan with one that has a drain plug, and also replacing the filter on my 04 Lincoln town car...subscribe 👌
FordTechMakuloco - Thank you... thank you... and thank you. I fooled around with that freakin' yellow plug for 30 minutes until I remembered your channel and thought you "might" have info on what the hell that plug is and where does it belong. So again thank you for the info. I now know where the plug belongs and it ain't in my transmission.
Thanks for posting straight to the point with all the correct information.
God Bless you Sir.
God forbid we get a drain plug. I just did 2 sedan's with drain plugs but non servicable filters. What a dream. I did 3 changes with lubraguard in the last. I measured whatever came out and replaced with the same with 200 miles in between. Fluid looks almost perfect. I also changed the crank shaft position sensor and input and output speed sensors on the sedans. They shift like butter with 205k and 110k miles on them. Expedition is at 215k but the one previous owner took it in to a top 10 Ford dealer for all maintenance last change was 160k.
Learned Alot from you sirmI change out my 5.4 too watching your videos.I learned everything from you sir!
I bought a aftermarket pan with a drain hole cause I think it’s stupid why it didn’t have one from the factory it made the 2nd time changing the fluid so much more easier and didn’t make a mess changing the filter
Dorman 265-813 Transmission Pan with Drain Plug
How are you going to clean your magnet if you don't take the pan down?
Rickboh: if you notice, the commentor above you ends with these words: "...and didn’t make a mess changing the filter."
@ p.m. Exactly, these engineers from the manufacturers have these jobs for a reason. The purpose of no drain plug is to make sure you drop the pan to change filter, clean magnet and do a proper inspection. No CZcams "At Home Service Expert" is going to do that and just leaves open room for transmission performance issues and failure if transmission service not properly completed.
you think its stupid because you dont know wth youre talking about
Hey man, love your videos extremely helpful. I have a 2005 eddie bauer expedition extremely helpful I appreciate it! thanks
Your videos are amazing
My 01 f150 xl has a tourque converter which has a plug in it and I change that also.Excellent videos.
That fluid looks pretty red for 90k miles and never having trans serviced
I have A F150 Ford super Cab & my Pan to the transmission has a Dream Plug Thank God for that
Good job, thank you, off to do my own now, cheers!
Does not changing the transmission fluid cause the vehicle to not shift gears or would it be something else? I have an expedition that drives fine for a few mins then itll jerk and when I accelerate it wont shift or speed up. (All of your videos has helped me fix my vehicle on my own with my husband's assistance and when this problem came about I decided to look on here before going to speed hundreds of dollars on an easy fix THANK YOU FOR MAKING THESE VIDEOS)
That little plug had me worried for a quick minute until I watched this!😂 Not used to parts being in the pan when I pull it!
First time this happened to me i was like, WTF is this? looks like a children's toy, one of our machinist at work had worked in a trans rebuild shop before and he told me all about it,lol, i thought i had dislodged a part with the fluid change there for a minute.
I pulled my oil pan once to change the rear main seal and all the valve stem seals were on the bottom the pan. Along with animal fur and lots of sludge. It ran great though, and didn't smoke at all except at start up.
Thank you for indicating what the yellow plug actually is. I had dropped my pan and had no idea where the plastic plug had came from.
chris travis I did the same thing saw the yellow plug and it drove me crazy trying to find where it came from l
Mine was in the filter hole where it goes up in the tranny. Kinda gives me a false sense of security thinking that was the issue of my 03 Mustang acting like it had a 5k stall converter.
Maybe someone had it apart before and found a place it fits lmao
I forgot to mention that this would be a lot easier job if one has a hydraulic lift. Trying to re-install this pan with the OEM reusable gasket while on your back is a huge challenge. The OEM gasket tends to slide around and I haven't found a way to hold the gasket in place until I can get a couple bolts installed. I've heard that aftermarket gaskets have smaller holes that will help hold the bolts which will keep the gasket in place. I'll have to try that next time. I was going to use the gasket that came with the new filter but 2 of the holes wouldn't line up no matter how I oriented the gasket. I did replace the pan with an aftermarket pan that has a drain plug though.
@Doug Pfennig I'll keep this in mind for the next time. Thanks.
Most people don't know about the yellow dipstick tube plug. I don't know how many people have told me they routinely changed their transmission fluid and filter and they should not be having problems. We take the pan off and bam, there is the yellow plug, haha.
More Crown Vic videos please. :)
I used your guide, went smooth as a whistle. One thing to note. When I dropped the pan, the filter was laying in the pan and the seal was still in transmission. Your thoughts on why?
Love your videos, I wish you were here in Florida :)
Great video man, thanks so much!
You need to add that that filter has an index mark where one bolt head goes from the valve body or the filter can get smashed on it. Still not sure why you didn't drain the TQ as it has a drain plug on the transmission housing. You can actually see the plug cover in the video big black rubber in the front. This drains the whole transmission which is 13.5 quarts. Unless you have the deep pan, which takes a longer filter tube. As I seen some people put the short one on a long neck pan and the filter does not rest in the fluid right and the reverse is true. You can not put a long neck filter on a short pan. As it will hit the filter pickup tube first.
And Ford transmission fluid is cheap at $5.00 a quart and never had an issue.
+Claude “Reviews4U” Rains if you install the filter straight like I show there is no need to index or align the filter to any bolt the pickup spout is the only part that sticks down and will drop into the sump as you put the pan up so it's pretty hard to crush the filter unless it way off in there. Also there is no drain on this torque converter therefore I didn't drain it. What you have to realize is Ford will continue to use the old style bellhousing with rubber plug because it's cheaper it doesn't automatically mean there is a drain. I haven't see t/c drain plugs since the early 2000's this was a 2005.
Dude your videos are very good and clear. Keep up the good work.
Yet another excellent video. Thorough and easy to understand. I was going to have the stealership do it, but now I'm going to do it myself this weekend. Ya buddy
Nice video I have a 95 Thunderbird lx 3.8l this may have been asked how do you get the old oil out of the torque converter would be nice if there were a drain plug on the converter
this video was put out on my birthday
Thank you for taking your time and making this video. Very clear, and nicely done. Thumbs up!!
So I just dropped my pan and my filter was chilling in the bottom 🤔 & the torque order #2 valve body bolt was Hanging out unthreaded about an inch ! I had a shift kit installed 10 years ago ish, & filter change few years back, got it all torqued back down, runs way better and shifts good👍 nervous though on any issues that it could’ve caused? Magnet wasn’t horrible 🤷🏻♂️ thoughts ?
Nice informative video. Wish my 1996 Ford F-150 4X4 was that easy. Transmission crossmember won't allow you to get to all the bolts so it made the job much more difficult. Do you recommend draining the torque converter also ?
Please do a service video on the new 10 speed transmission in the Ford F-150
Love your videos
05 Taurus just stopped moving, but runs just fine. Looks like you took your video down about the shaft that goes from the torque converter to the transmission. At least I got to see it, and understand what's going on. Take out the bolt on top of the transmission to see if the pump is working. 9/16 I think. The teeth in the torque converter, and the shaft are made out pot metal. You also mentioned the seal, and some kind of metal work on the shaft. I was coming back today to find the specific parts I might need, and the video is gone. Too bad, is it posted anywhere else? You do a really good job of explaining everything, so I subscribed. It's going to need oil and a filter, so I'm watching this one.
Nope its still here- czcams.com/video/bx6gTl16SMI/video.html
This video on it is here also with updated parts in the video description- czcams.com/video/RcE5fHZyn2M/video.html
Thanks Brian your videos are extremely helpful
Thanks Brain, good info
you are awesome , great video great explanation
2001 ford expedition now I will do my own trans oil change
It truly baffles me that changing out the transmission fluid is not more of an emphasis than it is, at least seemingly. I just changed out the transmission fluid in my 2004 Ford 5.4 L F150, and though it’s still had a red tint to it, I could definitely tell it it had not been changed, at least for a long while. Then I pulled the pan completely off and realize the yellow plug was still in it and that would go to mean that for the last 20 years and 160,000 miles, it has not been changed once. sheesh! 😅 (I’ve only owned it for a few years, and hadn’t even thought about changing the transmission fluid, until I started noticing some symptoms I began to research, and now those symptoms are cleaning up perceptively nicely after the change.)
Why do you have to switch into the gears for 30 seconds each?
To allow the valve body hydraulic circuits to refill completely which ensures your final fluid level check is accurate.
Great vid. I had quick question?
I have a 2008 F150 5.4 2wd with 180k miles. it runs good but i dont think the transmission oil has never been changed. should i chang it or just let it be.
Thanks
ljimz31208 lj probably change just for preventive maintenance
TheManInDboX: True, but why not sneak up on it and remove 1qts; add 1qts. Repeat....
You really won't know until you see that plastic yellow plug in the pan. Imagine how clogged your filter would be. I'd change it all including the torque converter
Easy! Don't throw away the old fluid, till you find or not the yellow plug!
@Urbexx Jeremy I got a 03 at 270k. Figure that applies to mine too.
Seems simple enough thank you so much for this video.
Great vid but may ad you should make sure all the valve body bolts are tight to spec. They have a tendency to loosen up causing possible internal pressure leaks.
I just dropped my pan on my 2008 e250 and the yellow plug was on there .. van has 171k miles and I bought it a year ago with 143k miles . This work van was not taken care of before I bought it lol
Nice video, but I think the best way to do this, is to drill the pan using a 1/4 inch drill bit, right behind that square lump. Then install a $9 dollar stainless steel drain plug. No mess, easy next time transmission service.
I'm doing this today! Thanks.
Keep up the good work and thankyor for all you done
Classic 5.4 phaser clatter.
I would NEVER reuse ANY transmission pan gasket. That goes against all 10 years of my experience working with transmissions.
It's reusable
I'm sure it's possible especially if the pan was over torqued. I took mine off at 156k and it was mint. I just did a video of it.
The rubber ones that come with the filter are complete junk, I've reused these OEM kind several times no problem at all. On GM's and Fords.
They reuse just fine. But I still change mine every other time.
Ford literally made the 4R gaskets reusable
In your opinion, do you think there are certain conditions where transmission fluid should be left alone? I know there is a huge debate on changing transmission fluid on higher mileage vehicles that have a transmission that wasn't maintained. I got a 09 Grand Marquis with 120K with no service history on it, and I'm debating on dropping the pan and doing a fluid and filter change. The fluid is still rather pink.
Also, when changing transmission fluid, does it matter if you change the fluid when the transmission is cold or at operating temperature?
Changing the fluid shouldn’t do anything disruptive but transmission fluid flushes can definitely cause issues
So what's better, flushing and not dropping the pan or dropping the pan and changing the filter or both?
My father in law taught me to use a punch to pop a hole in the pan to drain it. After that, simply braze it back closed. WAY less mess.
lol
@@FordTechMakulocolol indeed
My 2007 f150 4x4 5.8 flex/at is at 70k. I'm going to do a filter and 5qt change like your video shows... Is there any merit to doing a full system flush like other videos show? I don't have any issues except very minor trans slip at high way speed when it's trying to decide which gear to coast in, usually at about 70 mph.
which is better, to change 13.9+/- than 5? Why add a new filter when you are only changing out 5 qts. if ATF?
Totally awesome people 👏 thanks 😊 😀
Really enjoy your videos and i watch them regularly… I’m a long time Ford man. I have a custom built 55’ F100 with a 96’ CV p-71 drive train. The 4R70W has a custom dipstick and i can’t find info on exactly the depth of fluid should be in the pan. Anyone know that info? I’m asking because i has fluid dripping a little out the end of the output yoke. I had to hear the ujoint to get the old one out and the plug melted out. I welded it and had to seal it with epoxy to stop it, but i get a little dripping from the rear seal now🤷🏻♂️. I have a little play in the output yoke, but it was professionally rebuilt many years ago but has only a few miles on it as i have just finished the truck after 13yrs🥴. Keep fixing them Fords! Thanks
I watched this video to find out what the yellow plug. I couldn't figure out where it came from or where to put it. I bought a new pan with a drain plug. It blows my mind the factory pan has no drain plug. Talk about pinching pennies!
Without a drain plug you're forced to look at the trans filter instead of ignore it, as well with the magnet. Both of these things are just as important as new fluid.
@@AzalofForossa That is a good point, but a drain plug makes everything easier. Drain the fluid, then remove the pan.
@@mrq1701 oh yeah definitely! Not arguing that. I have a manual new edge so I'm not worried. But my girlfriend has an automatic new edge, I just did this oil and filter change to her car but I installed a drain pan with a drain plug in it so I can change the fluid every other oil change (as it only really pulls 1/3rd of the system out the pan). And did 2 changes. Once when I replaced the pan and filled it, then I drained the pan through the plug and filled it again to ensure at least most fluid is fresh and new. Then when it's filter time again I don't have to worry about a full pan drenching my hair again like it did today, transmission oil hair is awful.
I've found those 4R70W filters floating in the pan. I always buy the motorcraft filter, but I worry it will fall off.
Thanks for the great video! Perhaps a silly question but am looking for a video about draining and refilling the torque converter in my 1995 F150 4R70W. Drain plug was loose in mine and it lost quite a bit of fluid. Do I refill it through the transmission dipstick or do I pump fluid into the converter like is done to a rear axle assembly? Thanks again!
What did you find out? I took out my fill plug and had some leak out probably because the fluid was still hot and expanded and not sure if I need to refill it there while cold or just by adding at atf fill tube under hood
Any advice or tips ? Did yours hold up ? Do you try somehow refilling at the drain plug on the torque converter as much as what comes out ? My truck is at 230k an is brown when checking the dipstick I bought it needing motor rebuilt an almost finished with that pain .
The motor in my 2001f-150 5.4L was changed but not sure about transmission. Transmission was slipping so I changed filter and fluid. Fluid was nasty by the way. Afterwards I drove truck seemed to be doing fine but started slipping again and while on the side of the road I noticed major fluid leak. Where could this be coming from and could over filling cause this? My truck is 2001 f150 5.4 but engine replaced was 1G876AA which seemed to be 1999. Transmission pan has an S on it. My question is what type ATF Sho uld I be using and where could the fluid pouring out from? It does have overdrive and once hot is when it slipped, after cooling it didn't make it far at all before slipping to no go. Transmission had 14 bolts and shallow and truck is 4WD. I really trust your opinion as I have fixed 2 heads with Calvin kit and front end work and your videos were perfect, thanks for putting this out there, extremely helpful.
Thanks for the video, you made the instructions really clear and easy to follow. Two comments I want to make however. I would not recommend using an air drive tool to initially loosen the pan bolts. If one of those bolt heads snap off, you are screwed and would have to drill and tap a new hole. I would break each of them loose with a regular ratchet, then use an air tool if you want. Secondly, I am curious why you didn't mention draining the torque converter. That holds a LOT of additional contaminated fluid, and isn't much more work to drain and refill. Just some thoughts, thanks again.
I have been pulling these pans for 20 years in the salt belt of America, the bolts are never a problem. Second thing is Ford stopped using torque converter drain plugs around 2000-2001 era and this truck was an 05 so no TC drain plug to pull.
Do you recommend doing a complete flush using a machine to get out the most fluid possible or is doing this method always good enough. Thanks
Love your videos bud!! Keep it up!
Thanks!!
Mine has never been dropped, 134k miles and still red and no brown at all. Still shifting strong and running smooth. I know it’s an older video just watching for knowledge
Great video as always. I think i can take on this project. My 5.4 3v sounds EXACTLY like the one in this video. Is that the notorious cam phaser noise or is that how the engine should sound?
All I want to know is, where you get your black gloves. They're badass, to survive blake cleaner..
Adenna Shadow Gloves
Hi friend, this is a great video and wanted to mentioned that I had a small accident with my 2005 4x4 F150 (broke the oil cooler and the oil leaked while driving), after a few miles I stopped and had to be towed back home. I'm in Canada and the truck has 270,000 km, got it one year ago and don't know any mechanic history of it at all. I have the new oil cooler and wanted to know if I should change the filter now that is "empty", and if you know how much oil I may have lost and how much oil would require to bring it to the correct level?
A nut driver really helps starting the trans bolts instead of using fingers. how about trying to get the old fluid out after you do this by capturing the return line before it comes back to the trans? Like using a 2 litre soda bottle at idle . stop and add fluid start and run till clean fluid comes out? I don't know which is the return line on this unit
Do you recommend doing it on '04 Ford Expedition that I bought used? It has 195,000 miles on it, bought at 188,000 & don't know if it has ever been done, thanks & love the videos