Another great vid Daniel. I have 67k on my '15 VSport so I will be checking mine and replacing as required. Love to see the suspension vids. Also, I have been posting to all VSport forums that there is a recall on '14 and '15 VSports for the rear differential LOCKING UP WHILE MOVING. GM will be sending out letters once they have a completed their investigation. This is considered a VERY DANGEROUS RECALL ANNOUNCEMENT. Check with your local Cadillac dealership. My local one did not know about the recall yet, so you may want to insist for them to look up and get info. Again, a VERY DANGEROUS RECALL.
Hey folks, I mis-spoke in the video. The wire attached to the control arm is not the speed sensor wire, it's the wire that goes to the struts for Magride. If you don't have Magride on your car, this wire won't be there! ALSO: The torque specs shown for the ball joint nut is incorrect on the video!! It should be 30 ft-lbs + 120-135 degrees. Use these specs for the bolt/nut at the hub - don't use what I did in the video.
Hi Would you happen to have any insight on a "popping" sound coming from the front end of a 2014 Cadillac ATS 2.0t? I replaced my front driver side sway bar linkage 7 months ago with the plastic OEM part but when I drive up inclined driveways at an angle (whenever either side enters driveway first) I hear a popping sound as if you lightly tapped a hammer against the frame. I'm leaning towards replacing both OEM sway bar linkages with steel MOOG linkages but I'm entirely sure yet? I couldn't seem to duplicate the noise with I jacked up the car. Now i also saw the boots on my control arms had popped off as well. The car drives very smoothly it doesn't wobble or shake or anything while driving just when I enter an inclined driveway I also do not feel any play in my steering wheel. Would you be able to maybe shoot me a call or respond to this with some insight on things I might try looking at or fiddling with to possible replicate this while under the vehicle so I may find the source of my issue?
@@christopherlopez3288 I vote sway bar links. You can try first to torque them down again but you need both wheels in the air to do it properly. Both nuts need to be torques to 74 ft-lbs. if that doesn’t work get the MOOG ones
Video was great and very helpful just did this on my 2017 CTS. Getting the control arm out from where it connects to the wheel was a massive pain, rest of the job was as easy as advertised
Mine failed around 30k miles. Dealer replaced under warranty but I have to wonder if the extensive track use caused it. At first I thought I had warped my rotors as it would vibrate under braking but ended up being these.
Thanks for demonstrating how to tighten at proper ride height with the jack. I realized that by not doing this that this caused me to experience body rolls and a lot of sway on turns. That is very important information.
You can remove the control arm without a pickle fork or hammer, using the hex nut with a wrench and the center bolt using the T-40 as well so it slides up out the socket. This requires the bolt to stay on as you twist for the control arm to go up.
Great video sir! I My 18 CTS-V with 45K miles hasn't felt right and I'm getting a clunk at low speeds over bumps. Paid 140 for an alignment and took it back twice. They say all is well, but after watching your video I get under my car and 10 min later I see my bushing leaking oil! I ordered the control arms and the one time use bolts. GM loves TTY fasteners, and honestly I usually throw some blue locktite on it and call it a day but I drive this car hard. Your part numbers and torque values were very helpful too, as the parts website shows a part number compatible with ALL trims, but your part number is V specific and is the correct part. I am not sure what the difference except maybe holes drilled for the magnetic shock harness? Needing significant suspension work at such low mileage is pretty lame, but this seems to be common with Alpha platform cars.
Nice to see some DIYs for the CTS. I had a couple control arms replaced under warranty, but the warranty on my '14 is over now. I need to do shocks and struts on it come spring.
@@JetFuelOnly Can't wait for the thermostat if you have the 3.6. Lots of cursing will ensue. I now see you have the turbo 3.6 which has the same location between the firewall and back of the engine. Super fun time.
So this job is a ton harder on a 6.2 V. Due to the small fluid coolers in front of each wheel well, the bolts will not come out without massive disassembly. Removal of the intercooler bracket is needed, which looks to entail bumper removal, headlight and some other stuff, possibly including parts of the core support. If the bolt was installed in the opposite orientation at the factory this would be a quick job. I had to cut the bolt out, which isn't a huge deal since its TTY. Moving on to the ball joint. The separator tool I had would not open wide enough, and a pickle fork wont work because you hit the back of the knuckle before the fork gets deep enough to do anything. I used a BFH to whack the knuckle where the ball joint goes in and it popped out. I did the same on my old truck. An air hammer on the ball joint stud might work better here. Additionally, the nut on the ball joint is one time use as well. The end of it is oval shaped to act as a lock nut. Thanks for the video it was really helpful. This is super common on Alpha platform cars according to a GM tech I talked to.
Thanks dude for this much needed tutorial,was wondering why when I changed my ball joint it seemed like my car was riding so hard.need to put jack under strut and torque bolt down.
Yes Yes another good video. Keep them coming very informative. I have some shake at high speed braking. After new rotors and pads if I still have it I will swap these out.
@superswamperful, did you end up needing to replace the rotors and pads AND the front lower control arms in order to eliminate the shudder during high speed braking? Or did it fix it when you just replaced rotors and pads?
@@PeterPyo I didnt replace the lower control arms. The shake got better but its still there. Control arms should do the job. I will do those next in the spring.
I recently hit a curb in my 2018 Camaro in a parking lot at low speed. The drivers side wheel went over the curb and knocked the alignment out. After getting the car aligned, it has a vibration when braking lightly above 80mph. Do you think it's the control arm or tie rod that could be damaged? I did swap the front tires to see if the rim was bent, but the vibration is consistent to the drivers side.
I would say it’s likely. One arm could be slightly bent. Best way to have it dealt with is have a shop look at it and align it. Of course replace any damaged parts
Is it possible to just replace the ball joint boot once it breaks because it seems that my boot just breaks quickly and I'm wondering if I could find the right size and replace it that would extend the lift of it. Because it looks like a simple boot.
Hello, is replacing the lower rearward control arm similar as this (lower forward)? Do we have to lift the wheel as well to torque the bolts (the side without ball-joint) ? Thanks
Do you have the part number on the control arm nut and bolt? I can't find it online in diagrams. Also I am trying to figure out if there is an advantage to the V3 control arms (different PN#'s)
Is there a way to test to see if it is the control arms? Struts and strut mounts were changed out about 6 months ago. But all of a sudden I have this knocking/popping sound on driver side front. Doesn’t happen over a speed bump but will just happen as I drive down the road.
Sorry for the vague question I know in your video you mentioned the visible signs but I'm not seeing any cracks or leakage. So I meant more like is there a physical way to try and replicate the sound you get in the car while it's off the ground to see if it's that before I go taking it apart. Thanks for all you do!
Suspension noises are tough. Especially if you can only have the car on jack stands. Sometimes just getting a pry bar between points for leverage to see how much movement there is. Also under the wheel with a fulcrum pry up and try to compress the suspension a little. This can be touch because the tires absorb a lot of deflection. Also with car safely on jacks. Turn wheels each way and when turned or straight grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock positions or 12/6 and try to move it.
For the ball joint, I don't believe it's as important as the bushing end, but since you are lifting the strut to do one end you should probably do both that way.
FE3 equipped ATS, had to disconnect the strut to remove this arm. It would not clear the strut. Those bolts are big bolts are a bit tough, and when you go to get your car aligned make sure to inform the shop there is camber adjustment in the front end. The bolt holes on the top of the strut are elongated to allow for some adjustment, I found its up to +/-2.5* of adjustment. It is a bit of a bitch to do but remind the shop you did not design the car lol
Another great tutorial. The few "v-sporters" are lucky to have you as a fellow owner.
Another great vid Daniel. I have 67k on my '15 VSport so I will be checking mine and replacing as required. Love to see the suspension vids.
Also, I have been posting to all VSport forums that there is a recall on '14 and '15 VSports for the rear differential LOCKING UP WHILE MOVING. GM will be sending out letters once they have a completed their investigation. This is considered a VERY DANGEROUS RECALL ANNOUNCEMENT. Check with your local Cadillac dealership. My local one did not know about the recall yet, so you may want to insist for them to look up and get info. Again, a VERY DANGEROUS RECALL.
Hey folks, I mis-spoke in the video. The wire attached to the control arm is not the speed sensor wire, it's the wire that goes to the struts for Magride. If you don't have Magride on your car, this wire won't be there!
ALSO: The torque specs shown for the ball joint nut is incorrect on the video!! It should be 30 ft-lbs + 120-135 degrees. Use these specs for the bolt/nut at the hub - don't use what I did in the video.
Hey man great video! What the name of the control arm that comes from the body the very lower one
Hi Would you happen to have any insight on a "popping" sound coming from the front end of a 2014 Cadillac ATS 2.0t? I replaced my front driver side sway bar linkage 7 months ago with the plastic OEM part but when I drive up inclined driveways at an angle (whenever either side enters driveway first) I hear a popping sound as if you lightly tapped a hammer against the frame. I'm leaning towards replacing both OEM sway bar linkages with steel MOOG linkages but I'm entirely sure yet? I couldn't seem to duplicate the noise with I jacked up the car. Now i also saw the boots on my control arms had popped off as well. The car drives very smoothly it doesn't wobble or shake or anything while driving just when I enter an inclined driveway I also do not feel any play in my steering wheel. Would you be able to maybe shoot me a call or respond to this with some insight on things I might try looking at or fiddling with to possible replicate this while under the vehicle so I may find the source of my issue?
@@christopherlopez3288 I vote sway bar links. You can try first to torque them down again but you need both wheels in the air to do it properly. Both nuts need to be torques to 74 ft-lbs. if that doesn’t work get the MOOG ones
@@christopherlopez3288 my car does that when backing up. It's only the driver's side and it only does it when I cut the wheel very sharp.
Video was great and very helpful just did this on my 2017 CTS. Getting the control arm out from where it connects to the wheel was a massive pain, rest of the job was as easy as advertised
Mine failed around 30k miles. Dealer replaced under warranty but I have to wonder if the extensive track use caused it. At first I thought I had warped my rotors as it would vibrate under braking but ended up being these.
Thanks for demonstrating how to tighten at proper ride height with the jack. I realized that by not doing this that this caused me to experience body rolls and a lot of sway on turns. That is very important information.
You can remove the control arm without a pickle fork or hammer, using the hex nut with a wrench and the center bolt using the T-40 as well so it slides up out the socket. This requires the bolt to stay on as you twist for the control arm to go up.
Just got quoted $1,650 for this exact repair. Jet Fuel Only coming through again with the walkthrough to save the day. Thanks!
That’s so much! I don’t even see how they could justify it. Unless they are charging a ton for alignment.
@@JetFuelOnly Already have lifetime alignment. It was a huge markup on the parts themselves paired with labor hours.
Wild
@@JetFuelOnlya local shop for me was tryna charge 2500 with a 120$ alignment
Great video sir! I My 18 CTS-V with 45K miles hasn't felt right and I'm getting a clunk at low speeds over bumps. Paid 140 for an alignment and took it back twice. They say all is well, but after watching your video I get under my car and 10 min later I see my bushing leaking oil! I ordered the control arms and the one time use bolts. GM loves TTY fasteners, and honestly I usually throw some blue locktite on it and call it a day but I drive this car hard.
Your part numbers and torque values were very helpful too, as the parts website shows a part number compatible with ALL trims, but your part number is V specific and is the correct part. I am not sure what the difference except maybe holes drilled for the magnetic shock harness? Needing significant suspension work at such low mileage is pretty lame, but this seems to be common with Alpha platform cars.
Wow ! Great tutorial !
And this is how videos should be done.
Nice to see some DIYs for the CTS. I had a couple control arms replaced under warranty, but the warranty on my '14 is over now. I need to do shocks and struts on it come spring.
K Moni front struts will be the next video in a couple weeks!
@@JetFuelOnly Can't wait for the thermostat if you have the 3.6. Lots of cursing will ensue. I now see you have the turbo 3.6 which has the same location between the firewall and back of the engine. Super fun time.
So this job is a ton harder on a 6.2 V. Due to the small fluid coolers in front of each wheel well, the bolts will not come out without massive disassembly. Removal of the intercooler bracket is needed, which looks to entail bumper removal, headlight and some other stuff, possibly including parts of the core support. If the bolt was installed in the opposite orientation at the factory this would be a quick job. I had to cut the bolt out, which isn't a huge deal since its TTY.
Moving on to the ball joint. The separator tool I had would not open wide enough, and a pickle fork wont work because you hit the back of the knuckle before the fork gets deep enough to do anything. I used a BFH to whack the knuckle where the ball joint goes in and it popped out. I did the same on my old truck. An air hammer on the ball joint stud might work better here. Additionally, the nut on the ball joint is one time use as well. The end of it is oval shaped to act as a lock nut. Thanks for the video it was really helpful. This is super common on Alpha platform cars according to a GM tech I talked to.
Great info! You never know what the differences will be! I’ll try to pin this post or copy to my pin.
Thanks dude for this much needed tutorial,was wondering why when I changed my ball joint it seemed like my car was riding so hard.need to put jack under strut and torque bolt down.
Yes Yes another good video. Keep them coming very informative. I have some shake at high speed braking. After new rotors and pads if I still have it I will swap these out.
superswamperful sounds like a good plan!
@superswamperful, did you end up needing to replace the rotors and pads AND the front lower control arms in order to eliminate the shudder during high speed braking? Or did it fix it when you just replaced rotors and pads?
@@PeterPyo I didnt replace the lower control arms. The shake got better but its still there. Control arms should do the job. I will do those next in the spring.
@@superswamperful thank you for your reply! Good luck bro! Question: couldn’t you also just try replacing the bushings? Instead of the entire arm?
@@PeterPyo Not sure.
Excellent install
Your videos are awesome 👏
In the case of the ATS, you don't need to get under the car at all. Just take off the lower wheel well cover and you have plenty of access.
I recently hit a curb in my 2018 Camaro in a parking lot at low speed. The drivers side wheel went over the curb and knocked the alignment out. After getting the car aligned, it has a vibration when braking lightly above 80mph. Do you think it's the control arm or tie rod that could be damaged?
I did swap the front tires to see if the rim was bent, but the vibration is consistent to the drivers side.
I would say it’s likely. One arm could be slightly bent. Best way to have it dealt with is have a shop look at it and align it. Of course replace any damaged parts
You just earned a new subscriber
Thank you so much!
7:50 pontiac fan too. L67 gtp m90 ❤❤❤❤
Nice work Dan!
super neat ❤
I’m gonna put spl front lower control arms on my car!
Is it possible to just replace the ball joint boot once it breaks because it seems that my boot just breaks quickly and I'm wondering if I could find the right size and replace it that would extend the lift of it. Because it looks like a simple boot.
Awesome job
So that was all 4 or just 2? Sorry if missed that.
Just two. The “lower” forward control arms
Love your videos
🔥🔥🔥
Are the ATS Control Arms the same size as the CTS Control Arms?
Not likely. They are a different part number and look slightly different. Same procedure thought. Get your arms at RockAuto.com
Question Could you have just replaced the ball joint itself ?
CLE boy no, that part is not available for this car.
@@JetFuelOnly ok thanks
Hello, is replacing the lower rearward control arm similar as this (lower forward)? Do we have to lift the wheel as well to torque the bolts (the side without ball-joint) ? Thanks
Yes it’s best to do so. Also you will probably need a ball joint separator for that one.
Do you have the part number on the control arm nut and bolt? I can't find it online in diagrams. Also I am trying to figure out if there is an advantage to the V3 control arms (different PN#'s)
The V3 control arms are definitely beefier with better joints.
I see bolt as 11517955. But doesn’t need to be replaced but it’s 11516078
Is there a way to test to see if it is the control arms? Struts and strut mounts were changed out about 6 months ago. But all of a sudden I have this knocking/popping sound on driver side front. Doesn’t happen over a speed bump but will just happen as I drive down the road.
Sorry for the vague question I know in your video you mentioned the visible signs but I'm not seeing any cracks or leakage. So I meant more like is there a physical way to try and replicate the sound you get in the car while it's off the ground to see if it's that before I go taking it apart. Thanks for all you do!
Suspension noises are tough. Especially if you can only have the car on jack stands. Sometimes just getting a pry bar between points for leverage to see how much movement there is. Also under the wheel with a fulcrum pry up and try to compress the suspension a little. This can be touch because the tires absorb a lot of deflection.
Also with car safely on jacks. Turn wheels each way and when turned or straight grab the wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock positions or 12/6 and try to move it.
Do you happen to have the part number for the 21mm ball joint nut?
I did some searching, but couldn’t find anything. I think your best bet is to contact www.GMpartsdirect.com directly and I bet they can help you.
@@JetFuelOnly think I might possibly be 11516076 - will try picking up one from the dealer tomorrow, keeping fingers crossed that's it lol
Update: it was PN 11516382 👍
Are you able to do it with just the front jacked up or does the whole car need to be on stands?
Just front is ok
Were you getting creaks? It almost sounds like tire rubbing. But I am not sure.
No. That might be strut mounts
Do you have to lift it up by the strut and torque the bolts down when changing the ball joint?
For the ball joint, I don't believe it's as important as the bushing end, but since you are lifting the strut to do one end you should probably do both that way.
@@JetFuelOnly I think it's because I over tightened it,I'll know in a few after I change my oil
Have question is the same control arm camaro and ats ?
Part numbers are not the same so unlikely the same (but not impossible). Procedure will be the same though
Muchsas grscias senor.
Good vid
FE3 equipped ATS, had to disconnect the strut to remove this arm. It would not clear the strut. Those bolts are big bolts are a bit tough, and when you go to get your car aligned make sure to inform the shop there is camber adjustment in the front end. The bolt holes on the top of the strut are elongated to allow for some adjustment, I found its up to +/-2.5* of adjustment. It is a bit of a bitch to do but remind the shop you did not design the car lol
That looks like you're replacing the upper control arm. If that is the lower arm what is the other one called?
I know, it’s a bit confusing. GM’s official label for the part I replaced is the “lower control arm,” while the other arm is the “control link”
Do you have alternator replacement for the the ATS 3.6 ?
I don’t but I know in the TT 3.6 it’s supposed to be a major pain
Do front control arms Exist for the ATS? I can’t find anything except for rears
www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2017-cadillac-ats--luxury--2-0l-l4-gas/front-suspension--suspension-components
@@JetFuelOnly are these components for the 2017 the same for a 2015 ATS? Couldn’t find the answer online
Should be. There aren’t any major changes form 2015-2017 for suspension
Just confirmed. You can always compare parts yourself at gmpartsdirect..com
Are the torque specs the same as camaros?
I would assume so on this part.
is this the same for AWD?
Yes. Part number in description
Can I fit a Camaro to my Cadillac?
Different part numbers I believe so I would say no.
You can use the CTS-V ones though 2016+
can u use camaro ones on the cts??
I wouldn’t bet that they are exactly the same but they might be. I’d stick to the correct part number
You should never ever use an impact to tighten anything
Discount tire is trying to charge me 1,600$ for this job.
I thought Discount tire only did tires. Wheel works you mean?
😂 I hope you did not pay that. A shop I went to wanted $700+ parts and alignment for this job.
First lmao yeeeee