Hey fam. Michael here. I hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful and entertaining. If you've ever considered installing solar on your home, my day job outside of CZcams is solar consulting. If you’d like to schedule a free - no obligation - solar consultation to see what the options are for you to switch to solar, save money, and become energy independent, please click this link and enter your zip code to see if your home qualifies: *****powur.com/understandingsolarp... Do you know anyone who is considering installing solar on their home? Refer them and earn up to $1000! Find out more by clicking this link: *****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
I have only commented on one of your videos and that was on the combiner box. I just wanted to tell you that your information on your solar setup was so clear and understandable that I was able to install my own solar by myself following your instructions. I had no prior knowledge, you made it just that easy.. I thank you so much and appreciate the gift of your time and knowledge...I am a 71 year old lady by the way.
Clear, concise info with no ums, no camera swings, and no horrible background music. That is a rarity on CZcams these days. Your video was well shot, with great audio and lighting. It was a pleasure to watch.
To anyone wondering, they are alright, they are just taking a break, on their recent post they said that they will but posting an update, the speculations about divorce were incorrect, they were just taking a break.
Its funny how you can be concerned about people you never met but feel like you know them from videos. Thanks for posting this. I really was worried something had happened to them. They had actually won me over from another full time channel to two people I really like
Hey is everything ok health wise? All your socials have been inactive for a year and worried something has happened. All the best to both of you wherever you may be in life.
The only nessage close to current on twitter from them: Thanks for reaching out and we're so sorry for the delayed response! We decided to take a long hiatus from CZcams, RVing and social media in general but we’re alive, healthy and planning to start posting videos again very soon. Stay tuned for updates!
Thanks for a great video. Just one suggestion. If there was about a 15 second shot of a simplified wiring diagram it would be a very handy reference. Then showing how that wiring diagram translates to the actual physical layout on the RV would be very helpful. Happy travels!
Oh to be young and agile to do this work. A well thought out install of everythingand great to see how you did it. Most people don't know that the alternator isn't designed to charge the batteries and you saved the day by just using the solar to charge the batteries. An alternator can be controlled and I have thought about that for over 30 years and it shouldn't cost much to do it with a rheostat instead of how the marine industry does it. They are really sharp on this charging stuff. Great work!!!I do have an rv ,,, I just can't afford to travel.
How are you guys doing? I haven't seen a new video in a while. Do you still have your RV? Did you decide to settle down into the rat race or are you guys still living free? I wanted to say your channel was the first RV channel in a series that inspired me to buy my RV. Now, I am taking classes to become both a certified RV Inspector and RV technician. You are such a great couple! Happy 2020.
Great job on the video. This topic is always very hard to explain. Thomas is big on doing wire schematics, but I'm like most people and love physically seeing where it all runs from. ~Stacy~
Nice set of batteries. I also chose Trojan, in my RV, I went with the classic standard T - 105 (NOT the RE) since those are sooo readily available in sooo many states and cities across the entire country at sooo many golf cart dealers, and are usually IN STOCK unlike any other models. I dont like to use any long term high current loads (such as high energy 120 VAC Inverter fed loads) that discharge my batteries down to 50% SOC. ..................... I suggest that AFTER all your battery terminal connections are tight and in place you might want to do as I and spray that red battery terminal protector and anti corrosion coating all over. It helps keeps dirt and moisture and contamination and oxygen (no oxygen = no oxidation) away............ Fora good reliable lasting low resistance electrical bond to the RV frame/chassis I drill a 5/16 hole (PS not to worry, a 5/16 hole filled with a bolt in the RV frame will NOT cause the RV to break in half),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Use a grinder to remove any dirt and paint and rust and any contamination down to bright shiny steel.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Insert clean shiny bolt nuts and washer all tightened securey and jam nutted tight,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then AFTER all the cables are atatched I completely seal the entire assembly to keep dirt and moisture and contamination and oxygen (no oxygen = no oxidation) away. ................. I have even used a wire welder to weld the inside bolt head to the Frame/Chassis for an even bettery yet low resistance additional bond .... .... When using NON Utility energy sources like an Inverter or onboard Genset I suggest they be configured as a "Separate Derived Source" ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and be configured with a Neutral/Ground Bond IE NOT have a Floating Neutral. In that configuration I would Bond the Neutral to the RV Frame/Chassis so if a hot wire shorted to the frame/chassis or anything connected to it, the safety third wire Equipmet GroundiNG Conductor provides a FAULT CURRENT return path to trip the breaker.............. Unlike a Grounded AC Utility Power Distribution System,DC battery power ONLY has a Positive and Negative with no reference or bond to any "Ground" or Mother Earth or any other Grounding Electrode. In many cases the RV conductive metallic frame/chassis an be used as a current carrying conductor what some may call "Ground" which is all well and fine HOWEVER if such is utilized one should avoid any multiple parallel current paths (sort of like a ground loop) such as more and especially smaller gauge wires. USE A SINGLE POINT GROUNDING METHOD.............. ...........Hope this helps you and readers, great videos keep them coming, best wishes be safe and God Bless.......... John T Retired Electrical Power Distribution Design Engineer and 47 year RV user and past dealer......
Just watched this video. Great topics! I’m a little curious why you didn’t run the same gauge wire from you battery ground shunt to the frame as the battery to the shunt? You would get optimal use of the batteries and quicker charges! Plus like someone else posted you should have ground down the frame to shinny metal,where you attached the ground wires. Then painted over the ground connection at the frame to seal it from the weather. Just some helpful advice.
Thx. I just finished watching your DIY Solar Power series! Very clear! I "liked" them all and have now subscribed for future content! Keep them coming!
Even though I know nothing about the stuff your talking about, you explain it so well I think I could fake it. 😁 Great video, very detailed. Thanks for the info.😊👍
Great series. Very clear and concise. My wife and I enjoy all your videos. But suffering there lack of. Where are you and Jenny and why have we not head from you. Duet Justus Withdrawl if a real thing. Lol Praying all is okay?
D R I hope he/she was just trying to be “funny.” I’m watching them on Tiny House Tours and came by to tell them how much I love them already. Please don’t be separated! But seeing as how they haven’t uploaded for two years I have a sinking feeling the cheeky one is right. Sigh.......
Thanks for sharing. Your hybrid comment gave me great insight when you responded to my question. What I would like to ask now, will you show us how you hooked your inverter to your A.C. main.?
Thanks for your video. I'm installing my AIMS 2500 inverter charger as well as my Victron solar charge controller and I wasn't quite sure how to ground these things. I mean, they have grounding lugs. The AIMS inverter instructions were particularly and egregiously lacking. There is literally zero mention of grounding of the 12 volt side. Victron was a bit better, but not highly explanatory. You confirmed what I thought I should do, or at least whatever I do wrong I won't have been the only one.
Yes, that would be the preferred method. The single ground to the chassis should be large enough to handle the maximum current. Also, the ground terminal lug should be bolted to a flat, rust-free, clean surface with no washers in between.
Thank you for sharing your setup. The solar panels on your roof are probably the one thing up there that may attract lightning and “grounding” the panels is actually trying to provide an alternative path to somewhere closer to earth. You don’t want a current surge going through the cells in your panels, down your negative wiring, and through your charge controller. So maybe some object to the term “grounding” since the chassis of RVs aren’t truly grounded. Though it may have a lower resistance pathway than the surrounding trees. Last summer in CO, lightning struck a pretty new class A near us in the camera ground and the best path was apparently through the clearance lights on the roof, through the dash controls, the engine computer and finally along the leveling jacks. Fried a lot of stuff and they were told “act of God. No warranty, no tow.”
Yikes. I keep thinking like you to ground the chassis with an antenna ground rod (not as big as a house, but better than nothing I think). Trick is to figure out how to pull it back up for the next boondock site. (Obviously, make sure the ground coming in from AC shore power goes to chassis also) as it didn't in my 2018 camper, I did connect chassis ground to AC & the mppt, solar breaker panel, inverter, and generator. Also, put connection grease on all.
What i find difficult, is, if you have a 48v leisure battery bank and 48v inverter/scc 'all in one' setup, how do you ground everything to the chassis, which already has your 12v engine battery negatively grounded to it. Does the 48v battery bank not do damage to 12v vehicle components?
Hello! I JUST found your channel today! You two are so inspiring to me! I'm looking forward to follow you in your adventures and watching all your past videos ♡ thank you for all you do.
You should have a fuse or a fuse link on the solar battery bank positive to the red wire that goes to the RV 12v fuse panel. In case of a vehicle collision that may cause that red wire to short, glow red hot and start a fire. After the fire is out an investigation will show what is the cause of the fire.
Just finished the 95 episode playlist your adventure start to finish watched in 2 to 3 days new to your channel excited to see what you all will be doing next.
Fun video, thanks for posting. However FYI in case you aren't already aware, as far as that rear generator battery getting charged from the alternator while driving as you mentioned, there's typically an ISOLATION RELAY that closes ONLY when the engine starts and ONLY then is that battery effectively in parallel with the engine starting battery. You did good when you. completely isolated that rear battery from your system as its NOT a good idea to place any mis matched battery into your four Trojan house battery bank. However at such a long distance back from the engine battery to that rear battery given the small wire size and voltage drop and resistance, that rear battery is never going to get much of a complete charge as compared to what the engien battery is receiving. But hey if you never use the genset and if that rear battery is in good shape you may "get by"HOWEVER if you haven't used the generator in years you probably no longer have a working generator. Its a MUST they be exercised on a regular basis and under a load. In another video you speak of at least a few high power devices you power via your Inverter but since for every amp they pull at 120 volts youre drawing over 10 amps from your battery bank and with ONLY 450 amp hours of energy storage capacity, it wouldnt take long to suck your batteries down to 50% SOC. You may want to consider whenever possible for longer term hair dryer or crock pot use to fire up and exercise that genset to save batteries PLUS exercise the genset.GROUNDING Its hard to follow all your so called "grounding" but it appears you may have accidentally created some multiple paths and ground loops. If you research the subject in depth you will discover the preferred concept of SINGLE POINT GROUNDING whereby any and all so called "grounds" all attach at one single common point. It appears that smaller green wire on your shunt may create a multiple path for normal battery return current and being of low ampacity it can be dropping voltage BUT I CANT SAY FOR SURE ABSENT A STUDY AND DIAGRAMS heck you may be fine.Its easy to say follow instructions for say the Inverter or Charger or Shunt but keep on mind its THE WHOLE SYSTEM WORKING TOGETHER thats critical NOT any single component. As an Electrical Engineer and past techical writer Im aware many manuals are correct standing alone but when designing an entire RV solar & charging system changes may be in order. In your Inverter video its my electrical engineers opinion just from looking cant say for sure your inverter cables lack sufficient ampacity REGARDLESS WHAT THE MANUAL MAY STATE. 2500 watts at 12 volts is over 200 amps !!! Sure if you dont use the inverter for larger loads its okay, but NOT how I would ever specify in a manual. Better safe then sorry.Best wishes and God Bless keep the fun videos coming.John T BSEE, JD, Electrical Engineer and Attorney at Law semi retired. RV user of 47 years and past dealer.
So, if I understand correctly, the batteries should be grounded to the frame, the inverter and solar charge controller are grounded to the frame, Should a shore power plug also be grounded to the frame? When only on solar power, how is the RV chassis truly grounded with the ground? How do we avoid a live chassis?
Is sharing a common ground with the car battery and battery bank on separate systems a bad idea in general or in the event of a short? Given that the car battery is already grounded to the chassis and without a shunt that is.
I have one question for you. Last year I had a company come in and install a solar array on my roof. I often wondered why people don't installed a transformer to boost up the power.
Umm, you haven't started the genset in 3 years? Chances of it starting is some where between nil and none. A genset needs to be exercised once a month. We'll leave that for another video. No need to ground the solar panels on an rv. Nice thought though. That grounding point looks pretty corroded. Hope you did some grinding before attaching all the grounds there.
Hi Michael, Thanks for all your videos. I need your help. I have an issue with a 340W ( Vmp 32 V, Imp 10A, Voc 40V, Isc 10A.6) mono solar panel I recently bought. The voltage reading without load is fine, but without load I can never get more than 1.8A. As soon as it's connected to my microinverter or my off-grid inverter, the current goes down to 0.1/0.3 A and it never makes more than 11W. No shade, no visible damage, nothing. I already change the MC4 connectors, check voltage continuity in the cables, changes cable, tested the bypass diodes, temporary replaced the bypass diodes, and still nothing. Always the same 5-11W power production. What could it be? I run out of ideas..... Thanks!! Pepe
I don't get why you grounded the panels to the vehicle, why ? Does the solar even need chassis grounding ? I have a 12v solar circuit in m camper and as I understand it ,it should not be grounded to the vehicle.
I can't remember where I heard this... I watch 2many videos lol but the person said don't ground to the rv. it will eventually ruin the devices installed in the system. Is this true??? or are there calculations that have to be done to avoid device damage??? Thankhz for sharing. Wholeness n Essence of Love ((-;
Just wondering if ya'll are still active on CZcams, just spent the last 5 hours watching beginning vlogs, however your most recent post is 2 years old?????
Have you had any electrolysis related damage from the copper onto the aluminum? I've heard you need to use a stainless steel bolt and sandwich the copper in two stainless washers to prevent it the copper from contacting the aluminum.
I am attaching a ground wire from my Lynx distributor that is part of my solar system to my chassis via a drilled hole, however since I am converting an ambulance, the coach is made of aluminum so could I just attach it to the coach? I wasn’t sure about grounding to aluminum.
PV array frame bonding is optional article 250.54 NEC only for lightning prone areas and really needs a ground rod driven into the earth. RV's don't have adequate grounds to earth. So unless you drive a ground rod everywhere you are it's useless.
I have an Rv trailer with a similar dc dude box how come you only connected to it with one terminal? Silent it be both the positive and negative input? I’m trying to connect my solar to my dc Rv fuse box
Good video technique, but why did you ground the panel frame? If you wanted it grounded just tie the return line to the frame. The negative of the battery is only offset by the shunt which is an insignificant voltage difference.
Hey fam. Michael here. I hope you enjoyed the video and found it helpful and entertaining. If you've ever considered installing solar on your home, my day job outside of CZcams is solar consulting. If you’d like to schedule a free - no obligation - solar consultation to see what the options are for you to switch to solar, save money, and become energy independent, please click this link and enter your zip code to see if your home qualifies:
*****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
Do you know anyone who is considering installing solar on their home? Refer them and earn up to $1000! Find out more by clicking this link:
*****powur.com/understandingsolarp...
I have only commented on one of your videos and that was on the combiner box. I just wanted to tell you that your information on your solar setup was so clear and understandable that I was able to install my own solar by myself following your instructions. I had no prior knowledge, you made it just that easy.. I thank you so much and appreciate the gift of your time and knowledge...I am a 71 year old lady by the way.
Clear, concise info with no ums, no camera swings, and no horrible background music. That is a rarity on CZcams these days. Your video was well shot, with great audio and lighting. It was a pleasure to watch.
Agreed!
Ya what happened to him he has not been posting 😒😒
You need to buy another RV so we can see some new exciting videos
Divorced...
To anyone wondering, they are alright, they are just taking a break, on their recent post they said that they will but posting an update, the speculations about divorce were incorrect, they were just taking a break.
Thank you. We were just sitting here wondering about them and what is going on.
Its funny how you can be concerned about people you never met but feel like you know them from videos. Thanks for posting this. I really was worried something had happened to them. They had actually won me over from another full time channel to two people I really like
Thank you for letting us know. I hope we hear from them soon.
Stop lying just tell the truth... living together 24 7 takes it toll on any couple.... they probably was done with each other years ago...
@@KC-gg6ub if anything they were the ones lying, all I am doing is relaying information given to us, don't attack me because im trying to help.
So weird how these awesome videos stopped so abruptly. I guess they moved on to bigger and better things.
I think it's called COVID.
@@stopthegop4894 it was 3 years ago...
@@ImAlpinelol
Hey is everything ok health wise? All your socials have been inactive for a year and worried something has happened. All the best to both of you wherever you may be in life.
The only nessage close to current on twitter from them: Thanks for reaching out and we're so sorry for the delayed response! We decided to take a long hiatus from CZcams, RVing and social media in general but we’re alive, healthy and planning to start posting videos again very soon. Stay tuned for updates!
Any new updates?
They are amazing people and they shared so much excellent information! I hope that they do come back better than ever.
Are you going to start posting new videos? I love watching the two of you. You are some of my favorite youtubers.
Thanks for a great video. Just one suggestion. If there was about a 15 second shot of a simplified wiring diagram it would be a very handy reference. Then showing how that wiring diagram translates to the actual physical layout on the RV would be very helpful. Happy travels!
Good idea!
I just binge watched your entire RV renovation series, where have you guys been for the past few years?
Where are you guys at? Fixing to binge watch your vids.
Oh to be young and agile to do this work. A well thought out install of everythingand great to see how you did it. Most people don't know that the alternator isn't designed to charge the batteries and you saved the day by just using the solar to charge the batteries. An alternator can be controlled and I have thought about that for over 30 years and it shouldn't cost much to do it with a rheostat instead of how the marine industry does it. They are really sharp on this charging stuff. Great work!!!I do have an rv ,,, I just can't afford to travel.
An alternator isn’t designed to charge batteries? What’s it for?
How are you guys doing? I haven't seen a new video in a while. Do you still have your RV? Did you decide to settle down into the rat race or are you guys still living free? I wanted to say your channel was the first RV channel in a series that inspired me to buy my RV. Now, I am taking classes to become both a certified RV Inspector and RV technician. You are such a great couple! Happy 2020.
Great job on the video. This topic is always very hard to explain. Thomas is big on doing wire schematics, but I'm like most people and love physically seeing where it all runs from.
~Stacy~
I love your videos. We loved full-time RVing for 12 years. Wish you a lifetime of it too.
I hope you guys are doing alright ? Loved you videos on solar
Nice set of batteries. I also chose Trojan, in my RV, I went with the classic standard T - 105 (NOT the RE) since those are sooo readily available in sooo many states and cities across the entire country at sooo many golf cart dealers, and are usually IN STOCK unlike any other models. I dont like to use any long term high current loads (such as high energy 120 VAC Inverter fed loads) that discharge my batteries down to 50% SOC. ..................... I suggest that AFTER all your battery terminal connections are tight and in place you might want to do as I and spray that red battery terminal protector and anti corrosion coating all over. It helps keeps dirt and moisture and contamination and oxygen (no oxygen = no oxidation) away............ Fora good reliable lasting low resistance electrical bond to the RV frame/chassis I drill a 5/16 hole (PS not to worry, a 5/16 hole filled with a bolt in the RV frame will NOT cause the RV to break in half),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Use a grinder to remove any dirt and paint and rust and any contamination down to bright shiny steel.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Insert clean shiny bolt nuts and washer all tightened securey and jam nutted tight,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then AFTER all the cables are atatched I completely seal the entire assembly to keep dirt and moisture and contamination and oxygen (no oxygen = no oxidation) away. ................. I have even used a wire welder to weld the inside bolt head to the Frame/Chassis for an even bettery yet low resistance additional bond .... .... When using NON Utility energy sources like an Inverter or onboard Genset I suggest they be configured as a "Separate Derived Source" ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and be configured with a Neutral/Ground Bond IE NOT have a Floating Neutral. In that configuration I would Bond the Neutral to the RV Frame/Chassis so if a hot wire shorted to the frame/chassis or anything connected to it, the safety third wire Equipmet GroundiNG Conductor provides a FAULT CURRENT return path to trip the breaker.............. Unlike a Grounded AC Utility Power Distribution System,DC battery power ONLY has a Positive and Negative with no reference or bond to any "Ground" or Mother Earth or any other Grounding Electrode. In many cases the RV conductive metallic frame/chassis an be used as a current carrying conductor what some may call "Ground" which is all well and fine HOWEVER if such is utilized one should avoid any multiple parallel current paths (sort of like a ground loop) such as more and especially smaller gauge wires. USE A SINGLE POINT GROUNDING METHOD.............. ...........Hope this helps you and readers, great videos keep them coming, best wishes be safe and God Bless.......... John T Retired Electrical Power Distribution Design Engineer and 47 year RV user and past dealer......
Off Grid with Doug & Stacy recommended your channel, so here I am !!!
I'm trying to find an RV and got addicted to your videos. I got to get them all watched of I'll never get on the road myself.
Just watched this video. Great topics! I’m a little curious why you didn’t run the same gauge wire from you battery ground shunt to the frame as the battery to the shunt? You would get optimal use of the batteries and quicker charges! Plus like someone else posted you should have ground down the frame to shinny metal,where you attached the ground wires. Then painted over the ground connection at the frame to seal it from the weather. Just some helpful advice.
Very informative video. Nicely done.
Thx. I just finished watching your DIY Solar Power series! Very clear! I "liked" them all and have now subscribed for future content! Keep them coming!
Even though I know nothing about the stuff your talking about, you explain it so well I think I could fake it. 😁 Great video, very detailed. Thanks for the info.😊👍
I love what you guys did to your RV I’m going to copy what you guys have done I just love your RV
Where are you guys?! We miss your videos!
Great series. Very clear and concise. My wife and I enjoy all your videos. But suffering there lack of. Where are you and Jenny and why have we not head from you. Duet Justus Withdrawl if a real thing. Lol Praying all is okay?
Thank you for sharing ! I really enjoy the way you explain how it was done!
Miss ya guys!
Where have you guys gone? You haven’t posted in 4 months now... I hope everything is ok.
@Dill Rogerz - hope she got the RV!!
@Dill Rogerz - she gave him the best years of her life!!
@Dill Rogerz Please where did you learn this?
D R
I hope he/she was just trying to be “funny.” I’m watching them on Tiny House Tours and came by to tell them how much I love them already. Please don’t be separated! But seeing as how they haven’t uploaded for two years I have a sinking feeling the cheeky one is right. Sigh.......
Thanks for sharing. Your hybrid comment gave me great insight when you responded to my question. What I would like to ask now, will you show us how you hooked your inverter to your A.C. main.?
I hope you know, that the chassis isn't actually grounded, until a ground rod is driven and attached to that!!
Sweet & well done, I have 4-T105RE's also. 1 big fat 12volt batt
Trimetric TM2025A?
the frame ground needs to be bare metal before stacking those connections on. then cover with grease.
Thanks for your video. I'm installing my AIMS 2500 inverter charger as well as my Victron solar charge controller and I wasn't quite sure how to ground these things. I mean, they have grounding lugs. The AIMS inverter instructions were particularly and egregiously lacking. There is literally zero mention of grounding of the 12 volt side. Victron was a bit better, but not highly explanatory. You confirmed what I thought I should do, or at least whatever I do wrong I won't have been the only one.
thanks for the video, one question, can you not just use a negative bus bar and run one ground to the chassis instead of having multiple grounds?
Yes, that would be the preferred method. The single ground to the chassis should be large enough to handle the maximum current. Also, the ground terminal lug should be bolted to a flat, rust-free, clean surface with no washers in between.
Thank you for sharing your setup. The solar panels on your roof are probably the one thing up there that may attract lightning and “grounding” the panels is actually trying to provide an alternative path to somewhere closer to earth. You don’t want a current surge going through the cells in your panels, down your negative wiring, and through your charge controller. So maybe some object to the term “grounding” since the chassis of RVs aren’t truly grounded. Though it may have a lower resistance pathway than the surrounding trees. Last summer in CO, lightning struck a pretty new class A near us in the camera ground and the best path was apparently through the clearance lights on the roof, through the dash controls, the engine computer and finally along the leveling jacks. Fried a lot of stuff and they were told “act of God. No warranty, no tow.”
Yikes.
I keep thinking like you to ground the chassis with an antenna ground rod (not as big as a house, but better than nothing I think).
Trick is to figure out how to pull it back up for the next boondock site.
(Obviously, make sure the ground coming in from AC shore power goes to chassis also) as it didn't in my 2018 camper, I did connect chassis ground to AC & the mppt, solar breaker panel, inverter, and generator. Also, put connection grease on all.
What i find difficult, is, if you have a 48v leisure battery bank and 48v inverter/scc 'all in one' setup, how do you ground everything to the chassis, which already has your 12v engine battery negatively grounded to it. Does the 48v battery bank not do damage to 12v vehicle components?
Hello! I JUST found your channel today! You two are so inspiring to me! I'm looking forward to follow you in your adventures and watching all your past videos ♡ thank you for all you do.
You should have a fuse or a fuse link on the solar battery bank positive to the red wire that goes to the RV 12v fuse panel. In case of a vehicle collision that may cause that red wire to short, glow red hot and start a fire. After the fire is out an investigation will show what is the cause of the fire.
Are you guys ok? It's been awhile since we've heard from you. Just checking on you.
Navy Ground Traveler
Divorce
So sorry to hear that...
@@Onlyindianpj Seriously? Or are you just guessing, do you know them???
Hey what happened to you Michael? Love your vids.
Just finished the 95 episode playlist your adventure start to finish watched in 2 to 3 days new to your channel excited to see what you all will be doing next.
Hey guys!!!! I'm dig'n the labels you put on each wire. Great setup.
Hope all is well, have not seen any new videos in a month or so. Have a good one!
Hey Duet Justice, i am a big fan of your channel. Can you start making more videos again or at least keep all the fans updated
Very well done. You have given me a great target to aim at as I develop my solar add on to my RV. Don
Tx a bunch for this series ! I finally got it ! cheers !
Miss you guys
Fun video, thanks for posting. However FYI in case you aren't already aware, as far as that rear generator battery getting charged from the alternator while driving as you mentioned, there's typically an ISOLATION RELAY that closes ONLY when the engine starts and ONLY then is that battery effectively in parallel with the engine starting battery. You did good when you. completely isolated that rear battery from your system as its NOT a good idea to place any mis matched battery into your four Trojan house battery bank. However at such a long distance back from the engine battery to that rear battery given the small wire size and voltage drop and resistance, that rear battery is never going to get much of a complete charge as compared to what the engien battery is receiving. But hey if you never use the genset and if that rear battery is in good shape you may "get by"HOWEVER if you haven't used the generator in years you probably no longer have a working generator. Its a MUST they be exercised on a regular basis and under a load. In another video you speak of at least a few high power devices you power via your Inverter but since for every amp they pull at 120 volts youre drawing over 10 amps from your battery bank and with ONLY 450 amp hours of energy storage capacity, it wouldnt take long to suck your batteries down to 50% SOC. You may want to consider whenever possible for longer term hair dryer or crock pot use to fire up and exercise that genset to save batteries PLUS exercise the genset.GROUNDING Its hard to follow all your so called "grounding" but it appears you may have accidentally created some multiple paths and ground loops. If you research the subject in depth you will discover the preferred concept of SINGLE POINT GROUNDING whereby any and all so called "grounds" all attach at one single common point. It appears that smaller green wire on your shunt may create a multiple path for normal battery return current and being of low ampacity it can be dropping voltage BUT I CANT SAY FOR SURE ABSENT A STUDY AND DIAGRAMS heck you may be fine.Its easy to say follow instructions for say the Inverter or Charger or Shunt but keep on mind its THE WHOLE SYSTEM WORKING TOGETHER thats critical NOT any single component. As an Electrical Engineer and past techical writer Im aware many manuals are correct standing alone but when designing an entire RV solar & charging system changes may be in order. In your Inverter video its my electrical engineers opinion just from looking cant say for sure your inverter cables lack sufficient ampacity REGARDLESS WHAT THE MANUAL MAY STATE. 2500 watts at 12 volts is over 200 amps !!! Sure if you dont use the inverter for larger loads its okay, but NOT how I would ever specify in a manual. Better safe then sorry.Best wishes and God Bless keep the fun videos coming.John T BSEE, JD, Electrical Engineer and Attorney at Law semi retired. RV user of 47 years and past dealer.
Very well thought out and clean installation
awesome inputs for DIY Solar system
Where have you guys been? Looking forward to another video.
Thanks for the video it answer a couple questions I had.
So, if I understand correctly, the batteries should be grounded to the frame, the inverter and solar charge controller are grounded to the frame, Should a shore power plug also be grounded to the frame? When only on solar power, how is the RV chassis truly grounded with the ground? How do we avoid a live chassis?
Hello, love your video, are you still making new videos? Did you create a different channel?
Where did you go?
Sup bud! Just wanted to drop in and wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Great Videos. Very informative, It helped me understand what we need to do to add Solar to our RV. Thank you!
Ah ha. Got it now. Thank you for positively affirming my mistake.
Amazing, just what I needed to learn. Thx
Thank You for the great information. I hope to have a solar system someday soon. Great video..
Is sharing a common ground with the car battery and battery bank on separate systems a bad idea in general or in the event of a short? Given that the car battery is already grounded to the chassis and without a shunt that is.
I wish that you were still making videos! What happened to the two of you? Thank you so much!
they are tired! they live in Columbia, MO and they have a baby.
I'm also sorry to see you quit. I was going through many of your videos. and they fell off the end of the earth.
I have one question for you. Last year I had a company come in and install a solar array on my roof. I often wondered why people don't installed a transformer to boost up the power.
9:30 Why did you not add a fuse on to the POSITIVE WIRE to the battery? ????????????????????????
Are you guys ever going to come back to CZcams? We miss you.
Umm, you haven't started the genset in 3 years? Chances of it starting is some where between nil and none. A genset needs to be exercised once a month. We'll leave that for another video.
No need to ground the solar panels on an rv. Nice thought though.
That grounding point looks pretty corroded. Hope you did some grinding before attaching all the grounds there.
Hi Michael,
Thanks for all your videos. I need your help. I have an issue with a 340W ( Vmp 32 V, Imp 10A, Voc 40V, Isc 10A.6) mono solar panel I recently bought. The voltage reading without load is fine, but without load I can never get more than 1.8A. As soon as it's connected to my microinverter or my off-grid inverter, the current goes down to 0.1/0.3 A and it never makes more than 11W. No shade, no visible damage, nothing. I already change the MC4 connectors, check voltage continuity in the cables, changes cable, tested the bypass diodes, temporary replaced the bypass diodes, and still nothing. Always the same 5-11W power production.
What could it be? I run out of ideas.....
Thanks!!
Pepe
I don't get why you grounded the panels to the vehicle, why ? Does the solar even need chassis grounding ? I have a 12v solar circuit in m camper and as I understand it ,it should not be grounded to the vehicle.
It has been a long time are you guys ok?
Am looking for your "How I wired My solar panels - series or parallel?" video.
I can't remember where I heard this... I watch 2many videos lol but the person said don't ground to the rv. it will eventually ruin the devices installed in the system. Is this true??? or are there calculations that have to be done to avoid device damage??? Thankhz for sharing. Wholeness n Essence of Love ((-;
Is it not dangerous to wire the a earth to the chassis.. What if say 120 or 240 v goes to the chassis
Where’d you go? I enjoyed your videos hope you’re doing well.
Hope you both make more vlogs, really enjoyable🚐🇱🇷
nice work , but i doubt have u really grounded your solar setup ...please reply cause i m not able to understand ur type of grounding
Great video man! Do you happen to do this for other people? I have 4 RVs here in San Francisco that I want to put this Solar panels system
Hello strangers . I was wondering are you going to come back to YOU TUBE eventually ? Hope your well Cheers !
الله يعطيك الصحة حبيبتي 🌺👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺🥀🥀🥀🥀🥀🥀🥀🥀
Are you all still on the rd doing this?
Thanks we were wondering what to do with our old house batteries. I guess we can just lighten the rig and get some needed storage 🖖 thanks
Great videos keep them coming😍
Just wondering if ya'll are still active on CZcams, just spent the last 5 hours watching beginning vlogs, however your most recent post is 2 years old?????
♥♥♥♥ love ur house! !!
Love your videos, very helpful!
What happened to these guys? FB closed, last twitter was march 2018, like they just vanished. Anyone Know?
Will you all be posting any more videos. Hope everything is ok, haven't heard from you in quite some time...
Have you had any electrolysis related damage from the copper onto the aluminum? I've heard you need to use a stainless steel bolt and sandwich the copper in two stainless washers to prevent it the copper from contacting the aluminum.
I am attaching a ground wire from my Lynx distributor that is part of my solar system to my chassis via a drilled hole, however since I am converting an ambulance, the coach is made of aluminum so could I just attach it to the coach? I wasn’t sure about grounding to aluminum.
Great video Thanks!
PV array frame bonding is optional article 250.54 NEC only for lightning prone areas and really needs a ground rod driven into the earth. RV's don't have adequate grounds to earth. So unless you drive a ground rod everywhere you are it's useless.
I have an Rv trailer with a similar dc dude box how come you only connected to it with one terminal? Silent it be both the positive and negative input?
I’m trying to connect my solar to my dc Rv fuse box
Liquid electrical tape could seal the ground point on the frame from the elements and associated corrosion. :)
dielectric grease is best
excellent videos !!!
Yeah but when you're connected to shore power you'll have multiple grounds for the AC side. Isn't that asking for trouble?
Great Video.. how come you haven’t made anymore videos in over 8+ months? Hope all is well with you both? You sure have been missed here.....
Did you hook up the alternator to your new set of batteries? Looked like you left it on your old one. Could be useful if you get a cloudy week
Good video technique, but why did you ground the panel frame? If you wanted it grounded just tie the return line to the frame. The negative of the battery is only offset by the shunt which is an insignificant voltage difference.
please come back!!!!!
great stuff on the grounding!...but one question: so how is the chassis grounded???