Momigami Simplified

[@CreativeRiseArt]

Thanks for posting. I love that there are so many techniques to achieve the same end. I love how Momigami makes paper feel. I've never seen this technique, but I'm so glad I watched it. It's very cool!

[@creativepassages]

Thanks for stopping by. Yes, I noticed that there are a lot of approaches to Momigami. I also love how momigami paper feels. I love using it in my journals. Have a great day!!

[@ladylookn]

I made it using oil and let it dry for several days and it still leached onto my other papers. Im trying your method!

[@creativepassages]

Dry works very well. I don't like the oil. You could try hand lotion. Many people love that. I like dry and with konnayku starch the best. If you haven't tried konnayku starch yet, I'd recommend it. I have another video about that.

[@ElissaSarto]

Does the oil from your hands matter? I like to wear surgical gloves bc of the ink stains, but they turn out dark. Thx

[@creativepassages]

You can momigami dry, therefore, gloves would be fine. It's basically the folding and crumbling process. You can add hand lotions and other oils, too, even konyaku starch or tapioca starch.

[@user-pm7uk1vd9h]

Thanks❤

[@creativepassages]

You're welcome.

[@luizabergamim6105]

Fica lindo! É um teabalho de paciência realmente!!!

[@creativepassages]

Thank you! Yes, it did take a lot of patience, but it was fun! I love Google Translate! Be blessed!

[@lauriepolden6594]

You need to tell people what kind of paper because I tried to use magazine pages and it rips very easily. You can’t fold it without ripping it. You can’t crinkle it or crumpled it. It will rip. And that is with lotion. The paper is just too thin, so what paper do you use?

[@creativepassages]

Any paper you can fold can be momigammied. It could be the lotion that's causing the problem. I haven't been able to use it without it ripping. Dry it dry. I have another video on using konnyaku Starch. Perhaps you're using too much lotion because others have used it successfully. Also, you have to start the momigami process slowly. Start by folding in the corners and gradually making creases various places. You can't start scrunching and crumbling it right away. I spend 10 minutes just making folds back and forth before crumbling. Also, don't force a fold if it's resistant because that is where it usually rips. Let me know if this helps.

[@fungirl809]

I have done so many of these with all sorts of papers , I actually pressed them and they come out beautifully flat, I found that for me olive oil works great. Magazine paper give a lighter translucent affect They trick is to take your time relax and Momigami❤
affect

[@MsOscara]

I tried this a few months ago, using a heavier image/photo from a Vogue magazine. The photograph kind of fell apart when I was done. It looked like a very faded mosaic and had a crumb-like feel on the surface. I used olive oil. I haven't found anyone who has any thoughts about why it happened. I speculated that the quality of the paper high-end magazines like this use and the way the photos are printed on the paper made it less amenable to this technique. Any thoughts?

[@creativepassages]

Hmmm. I do know many people like the look of momigami magazines, but the new look of it after the momigami process is quite different, worn, and faded. The momigami process usually distorts what's on there...fades it, makes it lighter, cracks it up, changes the texture to more like a tissue or fabric, makes it crumbly, etc. It shrinks ir, too. I know olive oil will also change the color and texture, usually making it darker. I personally do not like the look of the oils or the lotions when they're been used for momigami, and find that they cause the paper to rip more easily and darken it. Perhaps your disappointment has to do with your expectations and what your plan was to do with those papers afterward. I recommend trying it dry without any lotions and trying a variety of different papers and even that same magazine again dry. Try konnyaku starch. I have another video about that: czcams.com/video/P2uDsamJ1R8/video.htmlsi=2t4yQ4z4JjcBX02C
Figure out what you like and what works best for your needs. Most of my needs are for abstract, grungy, or faded things, which might allow me to express my trauma and work through it. I personally think the cracks in the magazine and the contrast of lights and darks are very interesting. I don't mind the crumbly textures. If you do not like the final result you could consider rubbing paint or a glaze over the momigamied magazine paper and let the liquid fill in the cracks (this is a cool effect) or maybe even try spraying it with distress sprays or inks. You could try laying that magazine on top of a stencil and then using a light sandpaper - that pattern should show up. Or you could you try adding some Plaster of Paris mixed with gel medium and gesso to certain portions of your momigamied magazine pieces or put this through a stencil, lace or doily...or stitch different momigami pieces together with glue or threads and do these things. Then add more color to it when it's dry. I really love collage with momigami pieces. Try looking up Aimee Bishop. She had cool ideas about this. There's always more steps you can take to fix something that you don't like or make it beautiful again. Here's a blog post I made giving instructions about this stitched, altered, and distressed magazine pieces in that style. It didn't include momigami, but I noted that I wanted to try this with momigami pieces: wp.me/pcRhQ1-Nb
Let me know what your thoughts are.

[@MsOscara]

@@creativepassages Wow! Thank you for actually taking the time to give this some thought and provide a reply. The funny thing is, I used to do this with scraps of notebook paper when I was in middle school - and didn't use any kind of oil, lotion, etc. Just the paper and whatever oils were leached from my hands. I always thought the clothlike feel was cool, but never really contemplated what (if anything) one might do with such a material. So, here I am (almost 60 years later) seeing videos of a technique that I didn't know had a specific name and cultural history! I was aware that the images would fade, but beyond that, I don't think I had any real expectations. What I didn't expect was the crackled look and feel that was nothing like cloth when I was finished. I'll have to give this another try without using a softener to see how that holds up and see where I end up. I'll take a look at your other suggestions, too.
Thanks again!

[@creativepassages]

@@MsOscara You're quite welcome! It just might take more experimentation before you find what you like and what works for you. Let me know 8f you have any more questions.

[@LauraHickmanLauraHickman]

Do you use an inkjet printer? I think the ink in my epson would smudge using oil or water based substances. I know a pigment dye printer would be more permanent… I’m just curious about how to maintain the color.

[@creativepassages]

Yes, I have an ink jet printer. Cannon ip8720. Once it prints, let it sit for a few minutes before touching it to give the ink a chance to dry. Not sure how a laser printer would work, but it seems like that would work too. I use a laser printer at work, but haven't tried it for this.

[@creativepassages]

Hmmm...so you plan to add to it? Spray with a fixativ first. I would spray it 3-4 times and let it dry between each layer. Fixation has never worked solidly for me, but I learned recently after watching another video that you d0 have to have that sufficient drying time, and the 3-4 layers. A coat of self leveling gel after the fixativ will really seal it in and make it waterproof. It dries very glossy, but you can always later go back over it with a mat varnish when you get done. That should work fine. You may not need the self leveling gel, but I consider it to be a very good sealer and protector from my experience, but it will smear water soluable materials when applying without the fixativ first.

[@creativepassages]

Also, use an acrylic sealer or varnish on your artwork when finished. You can get glossy or matt. I personally think a spray goes on more evenly than the kind you paint on.