Eddy Mofardin climbing (and falling off) New New Diocese, Mt Arapiles trad 26/27
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2016
- Apologies as the first minute is a little out of focus and a middle bit was missed but anyway, what do you expect from Team Failure? So I attempted the FA (I think) of a brilliant Mt Arapiles 26/27 trad line. Got a little high over some dodgy gear where I tried to not get too nervous and place my final two pieces - a couple of stacked RPs and a small offset. Then climbed up into the final crux moves where I almost kicked out the two RPs. That certainly didn't help my sense of calm. Thankfully got the FA on the next shot.
- Sport
I like your style, really smooth and in control
i like your gear placements. they seem very deliberate.
beautiful mate , for sure this will be on my list next season, thanks
Nice
Awesome man!
Total fucking heartbreaker crux…..good work man, what would you say that is in YDS from Ewbanks? 26 so 12b/c? Looks absolutely stunning! Congrats on the F/A!
dude was stepping on his own gear in the end, this is why i will never let my brother lead me up even tip toe ridge, too macho
It looked like the small wire was just running under the arch of his foot. I can't imagine he would get an edge on that alone. It looks more like he is stepping on the lip of that horizontal crack and the wire just happens to share the same. I'd hardly call that "stepping on his gear"
@@jimminyjohnson yes, you are right again. well done for correcting me
Sick!
Is that the original Roland Foster line (that he probably didn't do ?) ... or something else again. Thanks again for the vid's - the others (Final Departure, Mind Arthritis, Procol Harum) basically form my hit list ...
No probs. Hopefully they're a little inspiring - and the beta always helps. The line takes a path similar to that shown in Glenn's guide as possibly Roland's line (although Glenn only guessed). From the descriptions of Roland's ascent from older guides and from the statement it was basically a solo, we figure he went up almost directly over New Diocese's roof. New New Diocese heads left a couple of meters into the next roof then directly up. Also, as you can see, this line is protected. Thankfully. And you need to add Denim to that list of yours.
Definitely on both counts - inspiring and helping with the beta. Denim was kinda on there already (with London Calling, Great Escape, Lats, Slinkin', Ergonomics and a host of others) anyway but it's a bloody big list and I'm getting old. Still not sure about traversing into Thunder Crack on Final Departure or STS BTW, but hey, I'll probably end up doing the same if it suits me !