Arapiles Beta Goats
Arapiles Beta Goats
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Graeme Dick climbs "Ride Like the Wind", 25R Mt Arapiles, Australia
Who can forget being a newbie and first reading Simon/Glenn's Arapiles Selected Climbs guide book description of this route... "The definitive mind trip. The final moves to the roof surely rank as one of the most serious and memorable sequences at Arapiles". If that description doesn't get you hooked then what're you even doing here. I mean, really?
Unfortunately, Graeme makes the whole thing look like a warm-up. Those two good pieces he places just before the final sequence to the roof make things feel a whole lot saner. But I still wouldn't confuse this thing with a stitch up.
zhlédnutí: 901

Video

Tannin - First Time: Death is Imminent
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 2 měsíci
Tannin is a classic grade 19 rock climb at Arapiles/Djurrite, and many of us have stories about the first time we tried it. In this film, we see Erica's first time on the route, and hear stories from a number of other climbers (some more famous than others) including Andrew Thomson; Esther Renita; Glenn Tempest; Mikl Law; Simon Mentz; Dave Jones; Malcolm Matheson; Zac Vertrees; Norm Booth; Loui...
Reuben Bennett-Daly climbs "Required", 27 Mt Arapiles/Djurite, Australia
zhlédnutí 667Před 3 měsíci
Reuben features again at the Bluffs, this time on "Required", a short and reputedly stout 27. Reuben has been keeping the filming team busy in the last few weeks, as he makes use of the blustery conditions to tick off a few routes at the Bluffs. Note that there was a lot of complaining about certain holds not feeling very grippy, however the department in charge of recording audio was on a sche...
Reuben Bennett-Daly climbs "Station to Station", 25 Mt Arapiles, Australia
zhlédnutí 643Před 3 měsíci
That man Ben Wiessner filming again, this time capturing Natimuk (current) resident Reuben casually climbing (while apparently stopping all stations) a classic Mt Arapiles 25. Luckily all that bouldering has prepared him with the necessary endurance.
Andrew Connolly climbs "Lats in the Belfry", 28 Mt Arapiles, Australia
zhlédnutí 2KPřed rokem
At 50, Andrew sends Lats his hardest route to date and topping out in the rain. Lucas Marie captures the epic send of Andrew's long-term 27 year project (on again, off again project - although mostly off). Andrew spends over half the redpoint trying to get through the top easier section fighting to minimise the pump, clip the gear and not fall off just meters from victory. Style points for both...
Danny Laing climbs "Les Memoires d'un Ane", 27 Mt Arapiles, Australia
zhlédnutí 684Před rokem
Ben Wiessner captures Danny on this "finger-shredding desperate". Hidden around left of D-Minor pinnacle at Arapiles, this brilliant climb doesn't see enough repeats. Technical laybacking, glassy feet and good gear make this a fun one for sunny days when it stays in the shade from late morning. Danny is now scrutinising the guidebook for more difficult routes in the vicinity of The Organ Pipes ...
Malcolm climbs Ethiopia, 29 Mt Arapiles, Australia
zhlédnutí 5KPřed rokem
Ethiopia, 29 is one of Arapiles' classic hard routes. Funky moves, smearing feet, baby bum rock with a roof crack to finish - it has it all. It's an extension of India, 28 (which branches off right after the stem rest). Malcolm owns this line. I reckon he's getting close to a hundred ascents including the infamous tuxedo and top hatted ascent on his 50th birthday. For the legions of you who rev...
Toby Pola climbs Pooh Connection, 29 Mt Arapiles, Australia
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 3 lety
Ben Wiessner captures Toby on this link-up from Pooh Sticks Direct Start into Anus Horribilus in Mysteries Gully at Mt Arapiles, Australia. Toby does a fine job of leveraging the rests to send his first 29 in about 15 years despite his inability to remember any beta after only 2 meters of climbing. If it wasn't for KP's frequent reminders and corrections he probably would've traversed off right...
Malcolm climbs Deeply Techo, 24 Mt Arapiles, Australia
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 4 lety
Tiny slippery feet and rounded handholds ensure the crux of this route is particularly difficult on a warm day. Malcolm though has seemingly little trouble - except finding the chains after he tops out.
Ben Wiessner on Rattlesnake Shake, 26 Taipan Wall, Grampians
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 4 lety
Power growls help Ben crush the technical Rattlesnake Shake on Taipan Wall - Adam Ondra would be proud. Cruxes separated by good rests typify this route - one of the wall's less famous but still offering stellar climbing. Apologies again for the wind noise. One day I'll do something about it but until then you have a volume control. Enjoy.
Graeme Dick on The Grampians' Spurt Wall's Menstrual as Anything, 25
zhlédnutí 869Před 4 lety
This very popular 25 on Spurt Wall has a rather stout V4(?) boulder problem start into much more reasonable climbing where the main challenge is turning the slopers into better holds by finding their sweet spots. Big feet, good rests and a fun lay back finish into a final move press up makes this a ton of fun. Graeme shows how it's done... when it's done as a warm-up for the grade 31 route next...
Graeme Dick launches off the dyno of Milupa, 29 in the Grampians
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed 5 lety
Graeme Dick demonstrates how to do the dynamic crux of Milupa, 29 both the right way and the wrong way. While it looks pretty bad, Graeme was lucky enough to walk away with only a bruised arse cheek and ego. Don't try this at home kids.
Eric Fazio-Rhicard (EFR) on Taipan Wall's Mr Joshua, 25
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed 5 lety
After initially heading up Mr J on-sight putting in the gear, getting terrified (only one cam placement KL?) and whipping off more than once, Eric red-pointed the big rig in good style. The key... milking the rests and keeping his composure despite the runouts and some less than optimal bolt positioning.
Eric Fazio-Rhicard (EFR) on Kachoong, 21 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 5 lety
It's not often Tucsonian EFR gets to climb things this steep and this trad at home on Mt Lemmon but many decades of climbing much of which was trad in the early days at The Gunks and Devils Tower have set him up to deal with Kachoong's exposure.
Eric Fazio-Rhicard on Have A Good Flight, 25 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 3,1KPřed 5 lety
Visiting Tucson legend EFR (Eric Fazio-Rhicard) takes a liking to an Arapiles route that plays to his Mt Lemmon honed skills. Have A Good Flight is a classic grade 25 Mt Arapiles sport route whose name indicates the air miles you'll earn should you fail to hold the final moves of the crux.
Chris Abernethy on Tigger, 27 Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 974Před 7 lety
Chris Abernethy on Tigger, 27 Mt Arapiles
Malcolm Matheson on Power Corruption & Lies, 27 Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed 7 lety
Malcolm Matheson on Power Corruption & Lies, 27 Mt Arapiles
Kevin Lindorff on Anus Horribulus, 26 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed 7 lety
Kevin Lindorff on Anus Horribulus, 26 at Mt Arapiles
Mark Wood on Cellular Destruction, 23 Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 7 lety
Mark Wood on Cellular Destruction, 23 Mt Arapiles
Eddy Mofardin climbs Power Corruption & Lies, 27 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 7 lety
Eddy Mofardin climbs Power Corruption & Lies, 27 at Mt Arapiles
Esther Renita climbs Trojan, 25 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 7 lety
Esther Renita climbs Trojan, 25 at Mt Arapiles
Graeme Dick climbs Slopin' Sleezin', 28 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 3KPřed 7 lety
Graeme Dick climbs Slopin' Sleezin', 28 at Mt Arapiles
Kevin Lindorff climbs Trojan, 25 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 4,3KPřed 7 lety
Kevin Lindorff climbs Trojan, 25 at Mt Arapiles
Chris Abernethy climbs Masada, 29 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 7 lety
Chris Abernethy climbs Masada, 29 at Mt Arapiles
Chris Abernethy on Procol Harum, 26 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 7 lety
Chris Abernethy on Procol Harum, 26 at Mt Arapiles
Chris Abernethy on The Low Down, 25 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 919Před 7 lety
Chris Abernethy on The Low Down, 25 at Mt Arapiles
Malcolm Matheson on Kryptonite Crack, 23 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 7 lety
Malcolm Matheson on Kryptonite Crack, 23 at Mt Arapiles
Chris Abernethy on L'inconscience Tranquil, 29 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 7 lety
Chris Abernethy on L'inconscience Tranquil, 29 at Mt Arapiles
Graeme Dick on Break and Enter, 29 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 7 lety
Graeme Dick on Break and Enter, 29 at Mt Arapiles
Chris Abernethy on Station To Station, 25 at Mt Arapiles
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 7 lety
Chris Abernethy on Station To Station, 25 at Mt Arapiles

Komentáře

  • @billbegg1139
    @billbegg1139 Před 4 dny

    Awesome Graeme. Congratulations. Those close ups had my palms sweating and that tiny nut placement blew my mind. Great climbing and fantastic video.

    • @IAmSuzyQ
      @IAmSuzyQ Před 2 dny

      Anytime I watch videos like this my fingers and toes start to ache, as if I'm trying to hold on for the climber, and it sometimes even gives me butterflies in my stomach. I'm deathly afraid of heights so there's a 0% chance of me ever being on a rock, but I still enjoy watching others climb. I guess I'm living vicariously through them.😉

  • @aaronstack-barnes5325

    It's such a joy watching someone who is really good at their sport. The strength, the grace, the delicate adjustments, the large dynamic moves and the way he always gives the perfect amount of rope. Truly a master class in belaying.

  • @alancarne8111
    @alancarne8111 Před 10 dny

    Wow! Awesome to see those holds and moves again. I sent this 5/6/2017 with Adam Demmett and Mark Gould. That last sequence to the roof was an almost out of body experience!

  • @Candesce
    @Candesce Před 19 dny

    That nut wasn't protection, that was a prayer haha. Nice climbing :)

  • @rohantayler560
    @rohantayler560 Před 20 dny

    So composed. This was always one of the routes I wanted to try back when I was actually capable but could never muster the cojones

  • @boidinktwistie4389
    @boidinktwistie4389 Před 20 dny

    love all the close ups

  • @gregfinlayson8135
    @gregfinlayson8135 Před 20 dny

    Awesome

  • @lukesonnenburg5006
    @lukesonnenburg5006 Před 21 dnem

    That was awesome....25naaaagh....totally composed.

  • @scottyoung7105
    @scottyoung7105 Před měsícem

    Super solid lead, great work, impressive. I remember this climb being steep and consistent. Loved it, and love Araps! More Aussie climbing culture needed. Keep it up!

  • @Emergenttheory
    @Emergenttheory Před měsícem

    Nice helmet

  • @matthewswait
    @matthewswait Před měsícem

    Seriously one of the best climbing videos I’ve seen in ages. Nice job.

  • @stuarthickson6103
    @stuarthickson6103 Před měsícem

    Good on ya HB ... I don't think I've ever been so terrified as being in the back of your Torana in the 80's going out some granite crag near Melb.

  • @rebeccadyck3465
    @rebeccadyck3465 Před 2 měsíci

    Well done video! I love the history and speakers.

  • @stuarthickson6103
    @stuarthickson6103 Před 2 měsíci

    I got past the crux and then my wire popped out. I had to call for a top rope as it was a ground fall for me and I'm easily scared,

  • @josemanuelmunoz1555
    @josemanuelmunoz1555 Před 2 měsíci

    i was whit my nervous on top , congratulations nice climber nice route.

  • @terraflow__bryanburdo4547
    @terraflow__bryanburdo4547 Před 2 měsíci

    "No, theres no takes..." Well done.

  • @Bluemountainbowls
    @Bluemountainbowls Před 2 měsíci

    Interesting voice over

  • @eclipsearchery9387
    @eclipsearchery9387 Před 2 měsíci

    Well done :) Looks like a quality route

  • @pyrexqueen-sp8kb
    @pyrexqueen-sp8kb Před 2 měsíci

    7:29 shaking while holding the gear.

    • @simonsimon9880
      @simonsimon9880 Před 2 měsíci

      Lol, you mean when she's deliberately shaking the nuts to untangle one? 😂

  • @neillewis1389
    @neillewis1389 Před 2 měsíci

    Great footage of on sighting!! Her expressions tell you all you need to know...

  • @rockotter666
    @rockotter666 Před 2 měsíci

    Great onsight! genuine too the cux traverse move is much easier a metre or 2 lower than the way she went, chalked tho' it is ; )

  • @davemacleod9623
    @davemacleod9623 Před 2 měsíci

    Good filming an climber control..

  • @ottok7448
    @ottok7448 Před 2 měsíci

    i loved this route, great video. The voices were a awesome addition

  • @Candesce
    @Candesce Před 2 měsíci

    Loved climbing Tannin. Done that a few times. Nice climb.

  • @rickyclimbs1552
    @rickyclimbs1552 Před 2 měsíci

    super cool!

  • @fredgarvin316
    @fredgarvin316 Před 2 měsíci

    Nice looking climb, very composed, efficient leader and great form! Bomber stopper placements (I guess shit house is good)! I try not to place them as my first however if possible.

  • @sportenapfeltorten2095
    @sportenapfeltorten2095 Před 2 měsíci

    Fucking hell, thats one impressive climb.

  • @sportenapfeltorten2095
    @sportenapfeltorten2095 Před 2 měsíci

    What grading systhem is this? Grade 19? I have never heard that

    • @sportenapfeltorten2095
      @sportenapfeltorten2095 Před 2 měsíci

      Ah found it Australian Right?

    • @dr3857
      @dr3857 Před 2 měsíci

      @@sportenapfeltorten2095 the best, simplest and most understandable of all of the systems

    • @Candesce
      @Candesce Před 2 měsíci

      @@sportenapfeltorten2095 Yes, it's the Ewbanks grade system, standard in Australia for sport and trad. It's a 5.10b/c in YDS equivalent.

    • @sportenapfeltorten2095
      @sportenapfeltorten2095 Před 2 měsíci

      @@Candesce thanks a lot! :o)

  • @fattttb0y
    @fattttb0y Před 3 měsíci

    Nice. Hadn't realised how short the hard climbing was on this (looks longer from the ground). Not tempted to go into Requited ?

  • @chrisabernethy6985
    @chrisabernethy6985 Před 3 měsíci

    This is a change, normally I just watch Ruben when he's asleep. Yes, he's just as smooth when he sleeps.

  • @mountbeckworth1
    @mountbeckworth1 Před 7 měsíci

    A wonderful climber.

  • @arneboveng3756
    @arneboveng3756 Před 9 měsíci

    Beautiful sequences. Incredible footwork.

  • @pathogan632
    @pathogan632 Před 9 měsíci

    Good stuff. I didn't finish this.

  • @setadoon
    @setadoon Před 11 měsíci

    Good work! I love watching older guys like myself try hard as hell and fight through the pump to send an amazing looking route like that! Cheers!

  • @asvarun4409
    @asvarun4409 Před rokem

    You are a superb climber keep it up Malcolm.

  • @michaeldunlop3286
    @michaeldunlop3286 Před rokem

    What a route. Fantastic send!

  • @mjbuisse
    @mjbuisse Před rokem

    Nice to see old cvnts like me pulling hard!

  • @caseybald5482
    @caseybald5482 Před rokem

    Total fucking heartbreaker crux…..good work man, what would you say that is in YDS from Ewbanks? 26 so 12b/c? Looks absolutely stunning! Congrats on the F/A!

  • @fattttb0y
    @fattttb0y Před rokem

    Thanks guys. But yeah, obviously Mikey mostly ...

  • @alancarne8111
    @alancarne8111 Před rokem

    Malcolm, you are an absolute maestro Sir! May you long continue.

  • @billking8843
    @billking8843 Před rokem

    awesome!

  • @user-fx4ed9wj9l
    @user-fx4ed9wj9l Před rokem

    did you guys rap down and place the gear before his redpoint or did someone climb it before him while placing gear? sorry if this sounds like a noob question 😆

    • @billking8843
      @billking8843 Před rokem

      Draws placed on rap for this kind of ascent.

  • @nickdanne7270
    @nickdanne7270 Před rokem

    Any one know how old hb was while doing this again? what a legend

  • @seantrew9713
    @seantrew9713 Před rokem

    Go Andrew!!!

  • @nickdanne7270
    @nickdanne7270 Před rokem

    Soooo smooth!

  • @bongosock
    @bongosock Před rokem

    Malcolm Matheson: the OG beast!

  • @za8002fsr
    @za8002fsr Před rokem

    Legend!

  • @simonbarnaby8042
    @simonbarnaby8042 Před rokem

    Truly this man is the son of god….

  • @damien-lees
    @damien-lees Před rokem

    Epic belay Mikey! Thank you Andrew for making Mikey's dream belay possible.

  • @yurizinenko7189
    @yurizinenko7189 Před rokem

    Beautiful belaying, present witnout interference. A joy to watch