If you want to remove those limiters, instead of putting them back in, use 2 short pieces of fuel line that fit snugs on the HL screws, gives the screwdriver a self place to stay on the screws
@@ToddAdams1234 I like it because I can make the tubing long enough to show in the holes in the cover, or case and you don't have to guess where the screws are, keeps the screwdriver right where you need it, while the saws running
@@j.chrisbeck7492 after I got the limiter caps off of my Echo’s, it’s easy enough to also use a Husky Style spline drive carb adjustment tool. Granted, it’s not the “best” choice, but it’s not worked yet.
That sounds like a good idea, I'll have to try it. It is a PITA trying to seat the screwdriver into the screw blindly with the chainsaw running. Especially if you trying to tune the H-jet in the wood.
I'm glad you showed this. The last time you showed useing JB weld it wasen't long after I saw you putting in those after market ones that had no hole. I had wondered if you had switched to them for a reason or something. Good to see it's ok to use the JB weld.
I think a small tapered Allen head screw and counter sinking "chamfering" the butterfly would also work well. I might have to give this a try on something. I like the JB weld description, good video man.
You can use some stay bright Silver, bearing solder acid flux and a soldering iron and solder the butterfly to the shaft, and then remove the screw completely. Nothing wrong with grinding either Thanks for keeping it real.
Do you notice the saw blurbing on a cold start off the high jet after plugging this hole? After plugging this hole, and a re tune, was able to get 12,500-12,700 and a nice 4 stroke out of the wood/ clean in the wood. Fires on second pull just fine. Only issue now is when cold, throttle will act as though it’s lean until up to temp then runs like it’s stolen. I’ve fattened up the high jet and all it seems to do is just loose revs. Doesn’t affect the cold start blurb. Thoughts? Thank you.
Boadie , where do your hi speed screws generally end up , (turns out) after the JB mod to the governing jet . Just curious as I did one and it seems restricted (way lean ) on the hi speed circuit… don’t get me wrong here ,I think this is a great MoD and thanx for you channel and tips.
Boedy would you do this JB weld mod to a walbro carb on a 372? I am with you on grinding and removing material on the screw that holds the butterfly. Makes perfect sense and that will flow better. I assume that will richen the saw since you are making more velocity there.
This is a great teaching video! And you explained to those fellas who had been a failure that they didn’t do that little job correctly because they omitted the two most important steps to the project! Hell no it ain’t nothing gonna sick if you dumb somebitches just slap some two part epoxy together then slap it on a surface with a nice little coating of oil and gasoline and those atmospheric particulates… dirt and grease and body oil from the skin of a fat finger on them and that’s what you would want if you didn’t want it to stick to the surface! You physically cut your crosshatching pattern into the brass surface with a hardened metal marker punch tip and ( that’s a fantastic little piece of knowledge!). What can I cut some texture into the metal piece with? A much harder metal piece or stronger metal a a little center punch is what you use to make a little mark so a drill bit will spin on your preferred spot and begin to cut it’s hole and it’ll make a mark in steel so brass is freaking out and it’s in trouble! It’s getting a really good cut across it’s surface and he’s working in multiple and different direction’s to add the necessary “tooth” for a epoxy to adhere physically and mechanically to the scratched surface pattern and he cleaned it up then applied his epoxy! You should definitely bet him if he would remove one of his carburetor’s after a 30 day long period of use that if it’s still there that you’ll give him a grand cash because he’s just full of crap and cured epoxy is dissolved by gasoline! LMFFAO! Sure it is! LMFFAO! I use a different product called ProPoxy20 (a 20 minute setup time) and it’s holding home heating oil tanks and pipes across the hills and hallors together and it’s been doing it on some jobs for 35 years now! LMFFAO! It’ll burn out of the surface of a piston roof or an exhaust port window… but it’s rock solid in the intake side of the actual engine interior so inside a carburetor that’s far removed from intense combustion heat and those higher temperatures and there’s no physical impact damage…it’s close to a metal surface hardness! It’s a fantastic idea and technique! Beautiful work! And so is just gently removing the “locks” from the jet jacket’s and reinstalling them to help hold and protect those needles from movement and damage! Leaving them completely functional! And by basically blocking off the governor circuit obtaining a higher working rpm range. I’d be curious if you just grabbed a little drill bit about a size bigger then the diameter of their jet and opened up the gate to get more fuel flowing around your high jet circuit if they wouldn’t have a great rich tune that you could sneak back into the leaner side and get a hot momma??? I would wonder how much they were using from that jet under load and if closing off completely different lean them too much possibly??? It’s such incredibly minute difference’s that makes incredible performance difference’s!!! What makes saw building such an incredible and awesome hobby!!! I hope that I can try this one out on the Shindawia and see what happens!!! The new echo/Shindawia saw’s are wonderful pieces of equipment for your bang for your bucks!!! Those little 590’s just crushed the competition’s saw’s for the price point!!!
I cleaned my cs 590 carb because of a no start and upon reassembly, I noticed the L/H jets are different lengths. Would anyone know which is which? I thought they were identical during teardown, but appears not. The shorter one has a sharper taper, while the longer one is more blunt.
Why werent you wearing a wig with a perm in it like " painter Bob ( i think that wss his name)" and explaining this with a soft quite voice . " Here im going to put some JB weld rate here on this happy little brass jet! There , look how happy it is now"
If you want to remove those limiters, instead of putting them back in, use 2 short pieces of fuel line that fit snugs on the HL screws, gives the screwdriver a self place to stay on the screws
I like that idea. Different, but it should be VERY usable as well.
@@ToddAdams1234 I like it because I can make the tubing long enough to show in the holes in the cover, or case and you don't have to guess where the screws are, keeps the screwdriver right where you need it, while the saws running
@@j.chrisbeck7492 after I got the limiter caps off of my Echo’s, it’s easy enough to also use a Husky Style spline drive carb adjustment tool. Granted, it’s not the “best” choice, but it’s not worked yet.
That sounds like a good idea, I'll have to try it. It is a PITA trying to seat the screwdriver into the screw blindly with the chainsaw running. Especially if you trying to tune the H-jet in the wood.
👍👍 have a merry Christmas!
👍🆙CF
I'm glad you showed this. The last time you showed useing JB weld it wasen't long after I saw you putting in those after market ones that had no hole. I had wondered if you had switched to them for a reason or something. Good to see it's ok to use the JB weld.
I think a small tapered Allen head screw and counter sinking "chamfering" the butterfly would also work well. I might have to give this a try on something. I like the JB weld description, good video man.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Watch that T word. 🤣
You can use some stay bright Silver, bearing solder acid flux and a soldering iron and solder the butterfly to the shaft, and then remove the screw completely.
Nothing wrong with grinding either Thanks for keeping it real.
Do you notice the saw blurbing on a cold start off the high jet after plugging this hole? After plugging this hole, and a re tune, was able to get 12,500-12,700 and a nice 4 stroke out of the wood/ clean in the wood. Fires on second pull just fine. Only issue now is when cold, throttle will act as though it’s lean until up to temp then runs like it’s stolen. I’ve fattened up the high jet and all it seems to do is just loose revs. Doesn’t affect the cold start blurb. Thoughts? Thank you.
Merry Christmas 🎅 everybody
From The Coolest Guy on the Planet 😊
👍🆙CG🎄😁
👍🏻👏
Boadie , where do your hi speed screws generally end up , (turns out) after the JB mod to the governing jet . Just curious as I did one and it seems restricted (way lean ) on the hi speed circuit… don’t get me wrong here ,I think this is a great MoD and thanx for you channel and tips.
Walbro actually makes the jet #86-578-1. Gearhead sales just sells them I believe.
Where did you learn about the governor on the carburetor? I’m interested in leaning more about how it works.
Boedy would you do this JB weld mod to a walbro carb on a 372? I am with you on grinding and removing material on the screw that holds the butterfly. Makes perfect sense and that will flow better. I assume that will richen the saw since you are making more velocity there.
👍🏻 looking good!!!! And keeping it real!!!
A dry wall screw works
@8:25: I'm not your friend? 😊😅😂😂😂
Merry X-Mas Boedy of Novice Lumberjack on CZcams. 🎄🌳
This is a great teaching video! And you explained to those fellas who had been a failure that they didn’t do that little job correctly because they omitted the two most important steps to the project! Hell no it ain’t nothing gonna sick if you dumb somebitches just slap some two part epoxy together then slap it on a surface with a nice little coating of oil and gasoline and those atmospheric particulates… dirt and grease and body oil from the skin of a fat finger on them and that’s what you would want if you didn’t want it to stick to the surface! You physically cut your crosshatching pattern into the brass surface with a hardened metal marker punch tip and ( that’s a fantastic little piece of knowledge!). What can I cut some texture into the metal piece with? A much harder metal piece or stronger metal a a little center punch is what you use to make a little mark so a drill bit will spin on your preferred spot and begin to cut it’s hole and it’ll make a mark in steel so brass is freaking out and it’s in trouble! It’s getting a really good cut across it’s surface and he’s working in multiple and different direction’s to add the necessary “tooth” for a epoxy to adhere physically and mechanically to the scratched surface pattern and he cleaned it up then applied his epoxy! You should definitely bet him if he would remove one of his carburetor’s after a 30 day long period of use that if it’s still there that you’ll give him a grand cash because he’s just full of crap and cured epoxy is dissolved by gasoline! LMFFAO! Sure it is! LMFFAO! I use a different product called ProPoxy20 (a 20 minute setup time) and it’s holding home heating oil tanks and pipes across the hills and hallors together and it’s been doing it on some jobs for 35 years now! LMFFAO! It’ll burn out of the surface of a piston roof or an exhaust port window… but it’s rock solid in the intake side of the actual engine interior so inside a carburetor that’s far removed from intense combustion heat and those higher temperatures and there’s no physical impact damage…it’s close to a metal surface hardness! It’s a fantastic idea and technique! Beautiful work! And so is just gently removing the “locks” from the jet jacket’s and reinstalling them to help hold and protect those needles from movement and damage! Leaving them completely functional! And by basically blocking off the governor circuit obtaining a higher working rpm range. I’d be curious if you just grabbed a little drill bit about a size bigger then the diameter of their jet and opened up the gate to get more fuel flowing around your high jet circuit if they wouldn’t have a great rich tune that you could sneak back into the leaner side and get a hot momma??? I would wonder how much they were using from that jet under load and if closing off completely different lean them too much possibly??? It’s such incredibly minute difference’s that makes incredible performance difference’s!!! What makes saw building such an incredible and awesome hobby!!! I hope that I can try this one out on the Shindawia and see what happens!!! The new echo/Shindawia saw’s are wonderful pieces of equipment for your bang for your bucks!!! Those little 590’s just crushed the competition’s saw’s for the price point!!!
Maaf bro. Adakah penjelasan karburator 070 atau 090. Pungsi gopernor. Dan tanpa gopernor di mesin 070
Yep, all about the prep with jb weld. Would almost be quicker and easier to build them all pipes😅
It's good to be Human 👍😎
I cleaned my cs 590 carb because of a no start and upon reassembly, I noticed the L/H jets are different lengths. Would anyone know which is which? I thought they were identical during teardown, but appears not.
The shorter one has a sharper taper, while the longer one is more blunt.
Long is low, short is high. Always.
@@novicelumberjack
Excellent, thanks.
👍🆙BigGuy
Bonding 101
590-620 are screamers
The be kind friends man is so fake it makes me sick! Don't even like watching him!
You are now too be known as "'CHAAAAAINSAAAAAAW JESUS" not hesus
Why werent you wearing a wig with a perm in it like " painter Bob ( i think that wss his name)" and explaining this with a soft quite voice . " Here im going to put some JB weld rate here on this happy little brass jet! There , look how happy it is now"