The cheap way to slow down an industrial sewing machine that nobody talks about!
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- The smartest strategy for slowing down an industrial sewing machine for sewing leather or heavy assemblies! In the video I show you a Consew 206RB and a Consew 146RB, but this idea applies to almost any sewing machine.
Get a small pulley on your motor, and replace your hand wheel with a big pulley!
For those confused about why you wouldn't just limit the motor's top speed, or adjust the limit of travel on the speed control of the motor: This limits the machine's top speed, but you will lose your fine control of the speed.
Imagine two powerful cars that are fixed in first gear:
Car #1 has a brick under the gas pedal. You can move the gas pedal a quarter inch, and the car will quickly go 20mph. When you want to go 10mph, you can't find a position for the pedal that represents 10mph, instead, you chop at the pedal on and off to average 10mph.
Car #2 doesn't have a brick under the gas pedal. The gear ratio has changed, so the car's top speed in first gear is 20mph with the gas pedal fully depressed. You can use the full travel of the gas pedal, and it's easy to tell where 10mph is and hold that speed.
You're approaching a school zone full of kids, there's a police officer at the side of the road, and the speed limit is 10mph. Which car would you rather be driving?
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High quality cast iron Martin sheaves (pulleys) - There is wide variance in price based on outside diameter; be sure to check similar sizes:
amzn.to/2hkDhNU
Consew CSM1000 Servo Motor:
amzn.to/2xS98QS
Consew CSM1001 Servo Motor (Same as above with needle positioner):
amzn.to/2wIgMrO
Cheap calipers for measuring shaft:
amzn.to/2jNafuQ
Inexpensive drill bits available in odd sizes:
amzn.to/2xoIjlu
More pulley options:
www.mcmaster.com/#v-belt-pull...
eBay Consew CSM1000 50mm pulley:
www.ebay.com/itm/Consew-SM550-...
Clutch motor pulleys:
amzn.to/2xiOO7X - Jak na to + styl
Wonderful idea. I went the speed reducer way with Servo motor. This will be my next project for my Consew 225. Thanks for doing all the research and hard work.
Thanks dude, I owe you a beer. Just bought a Consew P1206RB and WILL slow that monster down now!
I did this to my Pfaff 1445 years ago but didn't make a video. Thank you for publishing this as I have retired the pfaff for an rb206-5 and will use this info and your experience.
Just purchased a Consew 118. Your video is just the one I was looking for to slow down the motor on a budget. Cannot thank you enough, especially for the links in the comments for the items. You really made this a practical for me, as I am a novice on a budget. I'll write more later and let you know how it worked out.
Rad; let me know!
What a helpful video! Many thanks.
Hey thanks for the great video! I recently replaced the clutch motor on my Consew 118 with a servo motor. I still had the clutch motor in my garage so I took the pulley off of it and put it on my new motor. It fit perfect! The servo motor came with a 75mm pulley and the one off the clutch motor it way smaller, although I’m not sure the actual size. It made a big difference. Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback, I am glad I could help!
Great video and this is what I’ll do to mine
JUKI LU-562 W/servo ... I replaced engine pulley with 1.5" and machine pulley with 6" pulley. I also needed a 3" longer belt. Total cost =$25. IT WORKS FANTASTIC, all the power without the crazy speed!!!! Thank you.
Glad I could help! That's exactly the math that led me to believe that this is the ideal solution for most people.
Installed a Consew EL-550 Sewing Machine Servo Motor along with the oversized pulley on the sewing machine head.
WORKS AWESOME
The 50mm pulley is on its way but don't think I'll need it.
Thank you for the information. Saved me from doing a gear reducing set up like on so many other videos.
Cool! I hope you take the time to try the smaller pulley; if nothing else it will give you more options at the low end!
Got the smaller pulley on, what a difference. Didn't think it'd make that much difference but it does. I can chug along, perfect control. By far the best, least cost remedy to getting total control with the machine. Thanks.
Nice! I am glad I could help someone. Happy sewing!
Great idea. Thanks
That's a great tip!
Hey man, thanks for this video, very helpful. That old Consew zig zag is sweet machine. I use a PFAFF 145-H4 and it’s a great machine, I did put the consew servo motor which made it actually usable on leather and nylon bags for me, the clutch motor it had when I got was super fast, worked fine just hard to control. Still, at 200-500 rpm with the servo is still difficult on starts because it starts at exactly 200 minimum and yeah, the cheapest I found a speed reducer was 125 on leather machine website. 150 like you said everywhere else and then the new belt cost, could be tied up with the better part of 200 dollars before you know it.
Also, was thinking of just building my own reducer that fits under the table.
@@lluwd If you have a local farm-supply store, I think you'll find it's easy to build your own reducer pretty cheap; plus you can continue to refine your ratios as you go. :)
I'm very close to pulling the trigger on the Consew 2206 which is basically the 206 machine with some programmable features. I'm pretty sure it doesn't need to be geared down because it comes with a direct drive motor. I am thinking about gearing down an old Singer 111W however.
I found a 6" chevy powersteering pulley from a nascar used parts auction for $12 so I have to bore it 1mm larger but I have a bridgeport mill so no big deal. What size was you consew motor shaft ?? looks like you also have the consew csm1000 as I do. My motor pulley is tight enough it has to be pulled with a puller it seems so I do not have a shaft diameter to work with yet.
Have the consew206rl. Where are you buying the pulleys?
This slower speed system can works on a post bed sewing machine?
Do you remember what the bore diameter is for the pulley you used on your 206rb ??? I don't have a set of digital calipers, but I do have the same sewing machine.
What hand wheel is that
How much for consew 226R cost
Wow you right on the $$$
What is the actual pulley on your 206?
Great video and well done. I have a Juki that needs to be slowed down for leather work and torque increase. My only concerned is, when I need to return to the faster speed would a speed reducer be easier for quicker change? Again, thanks for the video; it is easier to understand.
In my estimation: A speed reducer might be faster to change, or it might not - It would depend on the path of your belt(s), and if any adjustments are needed to your motor in switching back and forth. There are too many variables to know which might be easier to "undo." I've always found that a servo motor can go faster than I'd want to sew, even with reduction pulleys. If you're trying to stick with a clutch motor, the need to switch back and forth is a good reason to start with a servo motor upgrade. Good luck!
Just watched you other video about different motors. But my machine is a 1933. W103. And the clutch motor looks maybe from the 60s? This machine is not common. Won’t use the word rare. Neighbor gave to me free but think he got it free. He didnt even use machine oil on it. Not sure what he used but totally dirty inside. I cleaned it all up. But its so scary. I noted on my other comment another neighbors son in law who also makes sails back east set it up and helped me use it but the had wheel will rip your thumb off if you don’t grab it open palm. He warned me of that! Oh it is a walking foot. I wonder if I could change the wheel but maybe just getting that other non clutch motor a good idea. Will show my partner the videos too. I think another issue is I just need to learn more about industrials altogether as well all my vintage machines. Sewing for 50 years but first on cheap machines in 70s. The bought my home Elna, last of the all metal types. As time went on I learned more trouble shooting on my own then bought a singer treadle in memory of my mother as she taught me on a treadle as a kid. Well that was 4 years ago and now have 8 machines including the industrial. However I’m not just collecting. Going to teach sewing soon. I just threw my 4 yr old basic viking in the trash. Partner bought it for me when Elna needed a major fix, it is junk. Will never buy modern again. I do free motion embroidery. I do not need a computerized machine to do anything.
:+)-(+: i slow it down and speed it up with my foot 25 years is made me have a very controllable foot:+)-(+:
Does changing the wheel change the size of belt and if so thats additional cost. I have a very vintage 1933 111W103 singer industrial. It must have been a treadle at some time. I’d rather have that but not very feasible to find. I have a treadle but for singer home style red eye. I keep tangling the thread stopping and starting. 2 neighbors set it up for me the one giving it to me and another that has a sail making business. They seem rare not as in everyone loved them seems more like they just made better models real son after it has no numbers and some settings are made inside the machine. Finally actually found a manual. Which was amazing in itself.
You may need a new belt, it just depends. I usually buy belts on Amazon or the local auto parts store. Wrap your tailor's tape measure around both pulleys, same path as the belt, and take a measurement. The part number for the belt you need will be 3LXXY where XX is the number of inches, and Y is the fractional inch. For example, 3L305 would be a 30.5 inch belt of type 3L, which is what you want for an industrial sewing machine. Belts run $8-15 depending on the size and source.
Setting up a new machine, I like this strategy... Thanks, What pulley did you actually use on the 206rb, looks better than the solid disc versions ???
It's exactly the same as the solid disc versions, just has spokes. Unfortunately, the spoked-design seems harder to find online.
Wood-Canvas-Fiberglass, would you have the exact link to the oversize pulley that you have on your consew 206rb? I like the way it looks with the spokes on the pulley. Thanks for the informative video, very original, one of a kind.
Thanks! When I ordered mine, it had a photo of a solid pulley, but I got one with spokes. This is the exact one I ordered, but I can't guarantee you'll get one with spokes. Mine was also a little cheaper at the time: amzn.to/2Rm9zMm Sorry I can't be more helpful!
finally received the pulley for my machine.
not sure what to look for as belt size. this one works but does not fit level like the original pulley...
the drive shaft sticks out so the end screw is useless i think.. regardless it seems to have more power to go through the webbing and is slower..
Belt sizes are measured in inches; your industrial sewing machine will use a 3L; for example, a 3L200 belt is a 3L belt that is 20.0 inches long. If you need to change belts, you can use your tailor's tape measure to figure out exactly how long a belt you need. On my Consew 206RB, the shaft sticks out of the pulley a little bit also. If you needed the end-cap screw to get a better bite on the pulley, you could find a washer to take up the distance that the shaft sticks out.
looks like this will help me as well i have the 206 rb5... so does this big wheel come with two spots for the set screws and will the screw that goes inside work as well? crazy fast machine.
also, where did you get your main pulley. the one you linked is different than the one on your machine...
Of the Dayton cast iron pulleys I have bought, one came with two set screws and was a perfect fit with the original flat spots, and the other only had one set screw. Assuming you are buying a name-brand pulley, you should be able to find exact technical specs on the manufacturer's website. Also, I don't mind only having one set screw, as the cap screw on the end of the main/drive shaft will also provide some friction and keep the pulley from knocking and damaging the shaft should the one set screw be a bit loose. Good luck!
Hey Wood-Canvas.. I made a similar discovery last year. I changed out the stock 206 hand wheel with the much larger handwheel from a Singer 42-5. It basically has a 5" pulley with an 8" hand rim. This allowed me to run this machine on a Patcher foot powered treadle. It made a world of difference from the stock handwheel. Of course spare Singer 42-5 handwheels are exceedingly rare, but I had a donor machine. Thanks for taking time to document this easy modification.
Thanks for watching Lee! I envy those that have room to keep around donor machines for such uses. :)
Hi again what size/ type servo motor are you using.Thanks again.
I always use the Consew CSM 1000 or CSM 1001 motors. They are a 550W servo motor. I have used other types, but for the money, I see no reason to purchase anything else for a sewing machine like the Consew 206. Also as mentioned in the video, the availability of a smaller 50mm pulley for this motor is key. You can find a good deal and fast shipping on the CSM 1000 here: amzn.to/2AEj3If
thanks for the video. would it go faster if you press the pedal down harder or do you have to do some other adjustment for it to go faster? I want to set my machine for a slow start. thanks
Yes, it will still go faster when you press down the pedal, but, you will get a slower start. This is something I did not make clear in the video that many people seem to take issue with: Changing the pulleys (even if you already have a servo motor) will lower your slowest and fastest possible speeds, and will make the machine easier to control with a slower start. If you do not have a servo motor, and can afford it, I suggest getting one of those first.
Great video.., I have a console industrial model number 7360 R .I am sewing basic denim... My needle keeps breaking!! It works fine on other material.. But as soon as I get some denim under there like a hem, etc, the needle breaks
Now I am using Organ Needles, 110/18. DB x 1. What is the strongest needle that I could possibly use???
I'm sure you've solved this problem by now, but your machine is meant for light to medium materials. I'm not a professional sewing machine mechanic, but: If you're sure that your machine should be able to sew the weight and number of layers that you are putting through it without breaking a needle, I'd check your timing. I've experienced not-great timing work fine in lighter materials, but then cause needle-hook contact when the machine is stressed with very heavy materials.
any idea where I might get pulleys for a domestic singer 66?
Hi Dave - The same advice would theoretically apply, but in practice it might be impossible to find generic pulleys that would fit both the machine/motor and the space available to mount them. I do know that people often replace hand wheels from different vintage domestic Singer models to slightly slow or speed up their machine, but I don't know which models have larger or smaller hand wheels. I would imagine Ebay would be the place for those. There are some more practical electrical modifications that you can find with some searching; I might start there if I had a domestic machine. Sorry I can't be of more help!
I have a Consew 206rb5. Where do I get the pulleys I need to slow down my machine? Also, is it possible to make my needle stop down on this machine? I like that feature for welting and turning corners. I have no manual for this machine.
You can purchase replacement hand wheel pulleys from farm supply stores, Amazon, McMaster Carr, and several other places. You want a pulley designed for 3L/4L belt with a .5" (half inch) bore for the 206RB-5. Assuming you have a servo motor, you can find positioners and pulleys for the motor on Amazon, eBay, and many industrial sewing supply sites. You may not be able to easily mount a positioner if you change your handwheel.
Hey, I have a consew 206rb-5. Was wondering what exact pulley you used for the handwheel? The 50mm for the motor was easily tracked down but I'm having a hard time finding what I'll need for the handwheel. Also I'm assuming you changed the belt as well, do you have the specs for these and/or maybe even where you purchased them from? Thanks for the video, very helpful!
Any half-inch bore pulley. I used this one: amzn.to/2GAYRso with a 6" diameter as mentioned in the video/description. If you change both pulleys, I'd say it is unlikely you will have to change your belt. Your motor should have enough adjustment in it. If you do need to change belts, I've been buying the super cheap D&D belts on Amazon: amzn.to/2FlBYcX where 3L is the type. The part numbers will be 3LXXY where XX is the number of inches of the length of the belt, and Y is the fractional-inch. For example, 3L300 would be a 3L belt 30 inches long.
@@wood-canvas-fiberglass1514 Thanks for making this video. It's been rather helpful. I'm about to order parts for my 206RB-5 from the links you provided, but just want to clarify one thing before I do. Getting the correct bore size is having to take the machine balance wheel/pulley off and measure the inside diameter (aside from the shaft, which is just under 1/2") where the shaft goes?
where did you get the handwheel pulley on the first machine? what was the inner diameter?
I have a Consew 206RB-5 with the stock servo motor on it. For the life of me, I don't understand why these things are set up to run so fast out of the box. Mine is like having a Ferrari that only has two speeds... STOP and HAUL ASS. I too did the larger pulley for the balance wheel. Instead of going with a 6" pulley, I went with a 9". I'm thinking about buying a 12" as well just to slow it down even more and have more torque.
I haven't changed the motor pulley to the 50mm. I'm still running the stock pulley there. Would you happen to know the shaft diameter on the motor?
I'd like to slow my machine down as much as possible. I'm sewing 3 pieces of 8 ounce leather using a #25 needle and 277 thread. So, high torque and slow speed is a MUST for me.
The shaft diameter of servo motors does not seem to be standardized; I would measure what you have. For the Consew servo motors, I've never found a 'generic' pulley of the right size. Thanks for watching!
What is the shaft size for the larger pulley on the head?
i have a consew 105 and it has a clutch motor. will this still be able to slow it down to this speed?
Yes! Start with changing the clutch motor side pulley; they are extremely inexpensive.
Hi thanks for the video, I am looking to do this on a Consew 206 too. can you give some more specifications for the top pulley, i.e.- is this a taper mount, belt size, I think you said shaft size was half inch ?.Thanks again keep up the videos.
Hello, thanks for watching. For my Consew 206-5, a non-tapered, 1/2 inch bore pulley that is just under 6" OD is used in the video. The more time I sew with it, the happier I am, and I am especially glad I went with a heavy cast iron sheave. I was able to find mine on amazon for less than $20. If you take a look at different sizes here: amzn.to/2BOMqXx you should be able to find an inexpensive size. For my machine, I'd say 7" OD is the largest that will fit, and anything over about 4.5" will be an improvement. Almost all industrial sewing machines use a standard 3L type belt. A good way to find them on Amazon or at an auto parts store is to search for "3Lxxy" where the xx is the length of the belt in inches and y is half inches. For example, 3L300 would be a 30" belt. Good luck!
Half inch bore, no taper.
i think they raised the price with all the sales you been giving them.. its around 60 bucks now..
weatheroak cybe
Cylinder bed zigzag at Las USA at 7667
Awesome video... I just picked up a Consew 206rb-1 in excellent condition and need to slow it down. Being that it's been 3 years since making this video would you still recommend this set up with the Consew CSM1000 motor with a 45mm motor pulley and the 6" machine pulley you use here? If so then great but if you now recommend anything different can you please advise? Thanks
I still believe that if you want the most straightforward and affordable slowest possible speed with the most control, the CSM1000 (or your choice of similar motor) with a smaller pulley is the way to go. If you want to slow it down even more, replacing the handwheel as described in this video will get you even slower. However, I recognize that lots of people disagree; you can read their comments here. :)
@@wood-canvas-fiberglass1514 Thanks
I’m unable to get the two small set screws loose on the machines pulley. What can I do to get the pulley off ?
I got it off, used a pulley puller
@@brandonpeters988 Sorry I didn't see your comment sooner; I've had the same problem and carefully used a puller :)
The only real drawback to your pulley is that ya can’t use a needle positioner with it . You also must be cautious in reverse about your hand position as it will pinch the hell out of your thumb if it hasn’t fully stopped . Look at the OEM sheave and You’ll notice the offset rim for your hand . Your idea is cool and affordable no less .
Needle positioner could still work with some minor fabrication. I appreciate your concern, and accidents do happen, but I don't think most people doing slow sewing are putting their hand on the wheel when the machine is moving.
Awesome video! I have to share it with two of my buddies that recently bought industrial sewing machines. I have a Consew 206 like yours. Can you send me a link to where you go the big pulley that goes on the sewing machine? Thank you in advance.
Hi David, this is where I got my pulley; check the prices of different sizes, sometimes slightly different sizes are a lot more or less expensive: amzn.to/2Rm9zMm
wait so does he only need to change the pully or in this video has he also changed the motor?
Both were changed. If you find the machine is still not slow enough after changing the motor to a servo motor, changing pulleys is an easy way to slow the machine even more, without the expense and complexity of a mechanical speed reducer.
@@wood-canvas-fiberglass1514 thank you! also I was looking at buying the consew cp206r, is there a big difference between this and the consew cp206rb?
@@mycelleismybffl Hopefully you've bought your machine now, but the B in RB stands for Big Bobbin. If you're going to sew long seams, or sew with very heavy thread, you will probably want the big bobbin version. For example, if I was making boat covers professionally, any cost difference between the R and the RB would pay for itself on the first project. If I was making small leathercraft projects as a hobby, or if I was on a budget and could get a 206R on Craigslist for really cheap, there's nothing wrong with the 206R. However, once you try a big-bobbin machine, it's hard to go back :) Good luck!
Ok note again I’m only learning about industrials. So that other motor you are saying is good to change out to, the one with the speed controls on the dials....thats not enough to slow down ANY industrial? Or this is a fast and cheap fix for a clutch motor?
I believe he's recommending it for servo motors. He doesn't mention this specifically (I don't believe), but the main advantage is that you get more torque. Servo motors that are turned down to a slower speed may have trouble getting through thicker materials. Using a pulley system to slow it down will gain torque, making it easier to "punch through" material.
@@danielmills5149 , Yes the servo may be able to run slow enough, but it is likely not to have much torque at lowest speeds (poor piercing power). Just like a mountain bike the small drive pulley will drive the big pulley with more torque and less speed. This lets you run the motor at a bit higher speed (more torque at the motor) and even more torque delivered to the hand wheel.
I'm recommending it for all motors; if you are not happy with your control of the machine at slower speeds, and want to keep the motor you have, changing the pulleys on both the motor and the sewing machine can be an inexpensive option if you can find something "off the shelf" that will fit. I would still strongly suggest if you can afford it, replacing a clutch motor with a servo will have the most impact. Daniel is correct, an added benefit is more torque for punching through materials or in extreme cases, breaking parts of your sewing machine faster. :)
I can't understand why people do this any other way. Anybody who owns a bicycle knows how the granny gear works, without involving another whole set of pulleys!
The upper pulley in the link is not the upper pulley on your machine in this video
The link is to the landing page for Marin sheaves. That's the best I can do with Amazon. The exact one according to my records is is: Martin AK61 1/2 FHP Sheave BS, 3L/4L Belt Section, 1 Groove, 1/2" Bore, Class 30 Gray Cast Iron, 5.95" OD, 4170 max rpm, 5.36" Pitch Diameter - You should choose one that fits your machine and needs.
For clarification I was referring to the spoked wheel on your 206
I fooled around with pulleys over my 35 years of sewing with a consew 206RB. It turns out that there is a new and better way to have an easily controllable sewing machine. There are now servo motors , one with the consew name on it in fact, that cost just over $100. The new motors are much quieter and are much easier to set at a slower speed that is a night and day difference in easily operating the machine. I'm glad the obnoxious whir of the giant motor is gone, and for what ever its worth the new servo motors use much less juice. I wish I knew this before I wasted my time and money fooling with trying to change pulleys.
Changing pulleys is a way to slow down a machine even more than a servo motor alone, and changing the upper pulley is an alternative when you've already got a small pulley on any type of motor. This is a common theme in the comments on this video, so I'm sorry I didn't make that clear. If you have the money, I always suggest a servo motor as a first step.
@@wood-canvas-fiberglass1514 From what I've seen the servo motor can slow the machine all the way down to zero, it gives you complete and total control. Not only that it moves the machine will gigantic leverage. There would be zero need for changing the pulley with a servo motor. That's my experience, thanks for your input regardless.
@@shriaingnama No offense, but you're likely missing the point because you have 35 years experience with the same machine; you likely can control a motor far better than most people can. Changing the ratios of pulleys with a servo motor does not just lower the speed - It adds control and resolution in that control at slower speeds. Also, despite your claim, the DC motor has a minimum speed it needs to maintain as it moves from pole to pole; the minimum speed is not 0. I look forward to watching your videos demonstrating that a servo motor is all that is necessary, and that purchasing a speed reducer, or smaller pulley is a waste of time. I'll even give it a thumbs up and subscribe.
Consew. Mecine. Pride
What is the wheel dimension on that console? I have the exact same machine and I cannot find that wheel in the wheel that you have listed is not for consew
idk, I would have thought that putting a door stopper under the presser foot to limit how far down it can go would be the cheapest lol
Why didn't I ever think of this?! LOL I been researching all day how to slow down this beast I just bought last week.....
I know this is a joke, but, this seems to be a common point of misunderstanding. I added an example to the description of the video. For most people, the goal is to have the same fine control of the speed at a lower top speed. While it may work fine for some, when you only adjust the travel of your speed control (no matter what type), you are limiting the top speed, but also losing the resolution and control of the speed.