RE: Outboard 2-stroke. My father worked as test engineer in an Australian lawn care company called Victa for 40 years. They ran a 160cc two stroke mower engine until the early 2000's. Management had him fly to Europe in 1990 as a lot of the exported engines started seizing around coastal areas. They determined it was the marine 2-stroke oil customers were using which was breaking down at high temps and causing the piston to begin picking up/seizing on the exhaust side. Turns out that marine 2 stroke is more specifically designed for water cooled engines which typically run alot cooler.
Stihl's oil is Castrol 2 cycle motor oil. If you look at some of the older bottles they have the Castrol name and emblem on them on the back at the bottom of the back label.
Loved your informative and no nonsense talk about Two Stroke Oil, I always used Stihl HP Super because it has a fuel stabiliser, l am heavy handed when it comes to two stroke oil, l am closer to 40:1 than 50:1, totally agree with that, moving parts Love ❤Oil ! Keep up the great content, greetings from Ireland !
I always do 40:1 myself! I watch Richard Flagg also and he can whip down that 400 Stihl inspect it and have it reassembled in no time running top notch! Ive also got a jug of the Honda oil to try to see if it smells good also!
I've been running 40:1 in an older chainsaw. Recently purchased a CS-590 which recommends 50:1. I like your logic re: using the 40:1 and will use in the CS-590 as well.
I love Richard Flagg's oil test series. He ran the VP Racing oil in one episode and showed that it ran clean and gave good lubrication at 40:1. Plus the big bottle of VP oil goes for $10 so it's affordable. AMSOIL Saber is my preferred default oil but it's like looking for hens teeth in my area and the one store that used to sell it no longer does. But since I'm in an area where snowmobiling is a big thing so a lot of the smaller family run stores carry AMSOIL Interceptor. I bought a quart of Interceptor and Dominator last summer to give a try but it was just pissing down rain all summer. So I never got around to cutting any trees. Also, Project Farm tested bar oils a few weeks ago and showed that STIHL's own bar oil is just as bad as their pre-mix oil. It caused the most wear out of all the oils tested and the lab test results showed that it had no additive package in it to help prevent bar wear. Funny enough even Husqvarna's own bar oil wasn't all that great for how much it is. One of the best bar oils tested was also the cheapest which was quite amusing. I'll use up my Husky bar oil this coming summer just to get rid of it and I'll go with the Harvest King stuff he tested, I can get a 2 gallon jug for $15 at my local farm store. :)
I liked your video. I’m planing to try red armor at 40:1. I burned a ton of lawn boy at 32:1 with no problems. Stihl ultra has been my go to for years because I had a in with a dealer no problems except for spark arresters and plastics getting terribly dirty and clogged up. I enjoyed your video and I certainly don’t have virgin ears but some of the superlatives I found to be unnecessary while I was trying to teach my 10 yr old grandson something about mixed gas. I truly believe a good non ethanol gas is more important than the oil at 40:1. Just works for me. A close friend of mine is a mercury master mechanic and has told me numerous times marine 2 stroke oil is for water cooled engines only. Not formulated for air cooled 12-15,000 rpm engines. Have said enough. Have a good evening Sir!
Spot on! My experience is the same still Ultra is crap, switched over to Red armor and I was blown away it literally melts the carbon to liquid and burns it out cylinders and pistons look new. Also has helped revive a lot of old saws that haven't ran in years. I run 32 to 1 Echo Red armor in everything old and new. I run Amsoil dominator in my 2-stroke modified blaster that should have blown up already. Both Echo Red armor and Amsoil dominator look identical probably the same stuff. It has extreme protection even in lean conditions when I should have blown things up
As far as all the oils go I agree red armor is the best for availability and quality. I always used "head to start" 2 stroke snowmobile oil until it got bought out by Mobil 1 and the name changed. I feel any oil is better than no oil and always run it a little rich. My dad would always say"Spark plugs are cheaper than pistons!" and I've lived by that. Never have I ever blown up an engine from too much oil, but I have found too much causes a lot of extra carbon in a stock machine. I run the small mix ready containers simply because I don't have to measure anything and I'm lazy when I'm at the pump. It's always worked for me! I do run marine oil in my boat and it does seem thinner. I'd say a muffler mod on all small engine equipment and tuning the carb just a tiny bit fat is the best way to keep them cool. Also I run 1/2 a qt of Lucas engine oil stabilizer in my bar oil. That makes it stringy/sticky and keeps the bar cool. Also a sharp chain is #1! I agree stihl oil sucks. Most saws I rebuild that have scored cylinders and half melted pistons are hard core stihl owners that run stihl oil. Great video and I couldn't agree with you more!
Any idea of what happened to him? The last time that I remember him putting up a video he wasn’t seeming to be doing very well. When he said that it was something intestinal, I asked him if it was Chron’s and then he responded back that it was. I have it and it’s NOT the end of the world. I had a bowel resection in 2004 and I almost died in the hospital because of an infection, but After 6ish months (as far as I remember) I was finally doing what I’ve always done, just pooping like crazy. About 4months back my neurologist had to prescribe me Tramadol for an MS related issue but after that my poop issue is TONS better and almost like I no longer have Chron’s.
I'm using that Stens Mix (AKA Opti-2) in those pouches I sent as a long term experiment more than anything else... I also buy it in the bottles, so I can mix heavier amounts of oil. I run it in everything 2stroke I have even my ported Poulan, so far so good. Next summer when I get my shop built, I'll be opening up that Poulan and having a look at the bottom end and how it all looks after only running the Stens mix at the pouch mix ratio. It might not be the best for all use case scenarios but I can't wait to see how it works long term, already been using it for years. I also %100 agree, just use whatcha got... All of the regular 2stroke oils would not be sold if they didn't work because no one would buy them and therefore it would not be for sale. I would be using a different ratio when i go up to a 70cc saw because I will want the extra oil for extra protection. I have seen so much proof that the Stihl Ultra is bad I definitly won't ever run it. I used to run IPONE 2stroke racing oil in everything and that was amazing and it also smells like strawberry, I may use that again at some point.
I have been in the same camp for years...they all work. Other than the Stihl the only one I wouldn't run is the Super Tech because the one you have is for liquid cooled 2 stroke outboards. I've run the air cooled Super Tech and it's fine. The other question I get often is what ratio to mix? I agree to just go with 40:1 for everything from dirt bikes to model airplane engines.
Team Honda in 90s used yamalube 2r. In Honda HP bottles. Maxima superM is very good for chainsaw. Castor oil will carbon up after awhile been there done that. Use to use my bike gas 927 in my saws a lot . But it's the best protection 🏁🏁 just gotta clean and maintain them
the caster is the one oil you cant mix with other oils (or so iv been told) i been wrong b4. im too old for dirtbikes so i use ELF MOTO2XT i close my eyes and whack the throttle on the 044 and im back on the gate waiting for it to drop!
It has a good thick film cuz it runs 100:1 or 80:1 in place of 40:1 or 50:1. I run the same and like it. I like the stabilization that it comes with. So 40:1= 80:1
@@dubbssawshop Been running chainsaws at 50:1 for years given Amsoil's 100:1 claim, my 50:1 should equal 25:1 now how's that for logic?just for perspective that would be 20+yrs burning 5 gallons a week minimum. Been running my KTM dirtbikes at KTM's recommended 80:1 as well with Saber.
@@matticus6339 I've used a couple and all the ones I've used have been great at 40:1. I am using TC-W3 for snowmobiles now because it's thinner in the winter but usually use R50 for dirt bikes. Any of them are very good I'm sure. 90 ml oil to 4 L gas. Good stuff.
I've burned many many gallons of the Premixed VP Racing 40:1 fuel with excellent results. All of my two stroke outdoor equipment runs it flawlessly. Everything from my cheap Echo weadeaters and blowers all the way up to my hopped up, ported, high compression Husqvarna 365. Easy starting, cool running, low carbon buildup, stable octane rating, long shelf life (when properly stored) and great wear protection. Plus as an added bonus; it smells like a day at the race track every time I break out the two stroke tools. Red Armor is great as well. I just got tired of keeping track of the constantly multiplying/disappearing 1-2.5 gallon jugs of mixed gas. Was that ethanol free? Did I already mix it or is it virgin gas? How long has that been rolling around the truck bed? Did I do my math right or did I just mix that at 29.2:1? All of that aggravation is rectified by using the premix. That's worth the extra cost to me.
Love some 927. I just mixed up a fresh batch Sunday. I just wish Maxima would put some dye in it. 927 is a castor blend, Klotz makes a castor blend as well, there Super Techniplate, has dye in it but never tried it. The smell of 927 is just amazing.
I've been using Super tech TCW3 Marine 2 Stroke at 40:1 with e free gas and stabilizer. Have yet to have ANY lubrication related issues. I've had MANY people tell me OH it's for water cooled 2 strokes not air cooled. It's funny that I've been running it in ALL of my equipment for years. I'll let them know if i have a failure related to it. But it works even in my 14,000rpm Zenoah Clone with 372XP carb custom intake & lightly ported filter horn, cylinder intake, exhaust, and piston transfer ports. It only has normal wear when I pulled the cylinder to check it for wear after some hard testing.
At least you're mixing 40:1, could even go richer if you wanted - especially during a break in. Glad that stuff is working well for you. Someone picking up a random marine 2 stroke oil and mixing it at 50:1 or 100:1 might not be so lucky, plenty of saws have been burned up like this
I run 40:1 in my personal equipment, which incidentally is the same fuel I put in my customers equipment. I tend to buy oil by the gallon and use a mix bottle. Currently, I'm messing around with the Stihl Ultra oil. I am disappointed that its only JASO FB rated though. I have seen quite a few engines with low compression with Ultra oil in the tank come across my bench. I have seen quite a few with TruFuel as well. However, I don't think I've seen much, if any engine failure with the Stihl "High Performance" oil.
Started running the HP2 at 40:1 in all my Echo and Stihl equipment, largely due to Richard Flagg. Though I haven’t done a tear down, it still runs pretty clean, and the engines are slightly cooler by about 5-10 degrees F. The spark plug and arrestor screen do get dirtier quicker, likely due to 40:1 vs 50:1.
Man, my boy’s used to ride 2 stroke bikes and the guy that tutored me on 2 strokes ran 36:1 in his bikes. So I went to that with Castor 927 in the mix. I fly RC planes and have always loved the smell of RC gas exhaust and it had the same smell. It does tend to gum up the rings if you let them sit for a while but a shot of fresh gas down the top and let it sit usually loosens them up. I have run 40:1 on my saws and weed eater gas for years and it does make your stuff last a lot longer. I run Husky oil ow simply because all my saws are husky. Much love from NC.
Yup totally agree with you there. My grandfather always used regular motor oil. What ever he had in the truck at the time. Laughed at me when I would measure out my 2 cycle motor oil. I laugh now just thinking about it. Poor pop simpler times I guess.
First off, not a stab at Richard at all. But I think his video almost doubled the price of HP2 on Amazon. I watched the video on it and added it to my cart @ $16.99 but didnt buy it since I have plenty of RA right now.. Its now $27.99... I hate when that happens on Amazon. 🙄
Very well said👍🏻 sure, a lot of us have our preferences and there are definitely oils better suited to different applications but at the end of the day, almost anything will work at sensible ratios. The HP2 has a neutral smell IMO. Close to Red Armor just not as sweet.
I run Lucas semi synthetic after years of using anything I saw on the store shelf. But I changed after hearing Iron Horse, I figure if it is good enough for a fellow his age that used and torn down and repaired 100s or 1000s of saws and he is a wood cutter too, and he loves his saws- So Lucas 40-1 and not another thought about it. And it is available where I live, also tried Red Armour, but that is not even sold here.
As long as an oil meets ISO EG-B C or D standards I will run it. My favourite brand is called "on special", and if that isn't available, my next go to brand is "whatever is cheap" - sounds like I have been lucky, because where I come from I can assure you I am in no danger of burning up my gear on Stihl oil, as it is never "on special" or "cheap"
Been using red armor 2 yrs works great. Used redmax works good too but more carbon. Used amsoil saber and failed on redmax trimmer. Yes I would the right ratio. Tried again on a used trimmer and it failed also. No more amsoil saber. Curious on the Honda hp2 or the bel ray
I run 90/10 Klotz/Castor in my RC engines and nothing protects bearings as good as Castor oil. Currently, in my saws, I’m running Amsoil Saber @ 40:1, really like it. Used Husky LS for many years without issue too.
Great video. Now, about the Stihl Ultra, I have a Stihl 4 mix engine that only runs properly off of it for some reason (when I tried other oils, it ran like total crap). I read somewhere that the stihl ultra oil was designed for their 4 mix engines and not specifically for 2 strokes. For my other 2 stroke equipment, I use white bottle Stihl oil, simply because they come in these cute little pre-measured bottles.
I do completely agree on the subject of the worst oil. That being said, does anyone know why? I’ve seen a lot of videos on WHAT it does but never a comprehensive reason why it does it.
Motul 800 I use it at 50:1 and have had no problems but like you said Red Armor is good as well . I use 101 octane ethanol free racing fuel so it’s clean of additives that kill 2Stroke motors .
i totally agree that any oil will work but i judge an oil when then saw burns up and to see the damage .i have had some very good experience with some synth..... oils that saved cylinders in the compression area and yes 40 to 1 ratio i also believe a high flash point is important to get more lub to the entire engine!
I have one cautionary tale from using Maxima 927, mixed with 100LL avgas. This was/ is my favorite mix in my kx500, banshee and rz350 because it smells so good. But, at cold temperatures 927 will separate in leaded gas. Not a problem in a Jerry can because you can just shake it up. But if it separates in the fuel tank and you forget to shake the machine you can end up filling the carb bowls with straight oil, which is too thick to even drain out of the bowl drains on a motorcycle. So it requires a complete carb removal and cleaning. And on my old 028 stihl it just formed a gel on the fuel filter and it would not pump fuel until warmed up enough it would mix back into the gas. Just one of those things to be aware of, and is no big deal for an enthusiast but could be a headscratcher for the average homeowner. Although I suppose the average homeowner isn't likely running avgas and bean oil.
It separates in regular fuel below 30f too, it's wrong application to be using castor in a saw for sure.. it's main purpose is to prevent seizure in high stress motors that are torn down often and it'll build up a lot of gunk
All 2 strokes 40:1 any FD or greater rated 2 stroke mix oil. And never use sthil ultra for anything but starting a fire. Personally my go-to choice oil is Schaefer's XP 2-cycle it's clean does an excellent job. It has built in friction modifiers, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, which create a slippery, tenacious shield to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Even when you’re pushing your machine to the limit in demanding conditions. < Yes I copied that part from their website mostly for spelling 🤣. Great video and it is very true most any oil will work and be just fine with the exception of sthil ultra FB rated oil and a couple others that are also lower than FD rated carbon builders and lacking lubrication value as well.
I just use Husqvarna pre-mix fuel in those cans. If something happens to my saw I can provide all the receipts showing it’s the only stuff I buy. My 585 rips and I love it! I do recommend 2-4 ounces of SeaFoam at the beginning and end of every season to clean out some of that carbon buildup.
OK, thought u were going to go one level deeper, the ester vs. paraffin vs dino vs bean etc. , and the different generations of synthetics all have different burn characteristics that effect lubricity & carbon build up. Working from the perspective of understanding the base stock and how that effects the final product will help "predict" the characteristics of the oil. AND you are right, most will work or they would not be on the market. But some work better than others in different applications and work scenario's. AND the definition of "Better" oil is defined with matching the base stock with the application. BUT just a farmer....and I am not wasting with my mix choice. The oils I avoid are any paraffin based oil, any of the early generation synthetics like the Bel-Ray MC1 . The oils I like are typically marketed as "synthetic blends' ( I chose based on base stock ) and the better ester based oils like Bel-Ray H1R :) Some of the "Autotunes" felt the wrath of the paraffins. :)
My poor 346 didn’t know there was bad 2-stroke oil until Facebook groups were a thing. I apologized to it for feeding it Tractor Supply and Walmart oil for 20 years. I do just put the Stihl Ultra in my old 7.3 when I get it given to me with a saw😂
Red armor contains Polybutene which keeps the deposits low but by itself is not an optimal lubricant according to a paper from Yamaha. Cheap mineral based 2 stroke oil lubricates fine but leaves more deposits. These deposits can cause scoring of the piston if they dislodge. Also the exhaust port, muffler and spark arrestor will plug up using cheap low detergent oil. Use FD rated oil to take advantage of the most current oil technology.
Myself run Shell Advance Ultra Snow (synthetic) marketed as a snowmobile premix/injection oil in all my 2-strokes, chainsaws (40:1) and even my YZ125 (30:1) motocross race bike. Similar to Amsoil Interceptor but even cleaner burning and more importantly, a better residual film on parts.
Personally I never go heavier than 60:1 on oil, only exception would be a small bore MX bike. 250cc and up, 60:1 is plenty. A high-quality synthetic just doesn't need that much oil to lubricate everything, adding extra just makes a gunked up mess. The mix in my power equipment now is about 80:1 with Amsoil Saber, no issues. My 300cc cross country bike is injected and averages about 80:1. 150 hours and the motor is in great shape.
That's good. I am very glad for you, seriously. Lots of folks have never had an issue. My advice is the same as if you told me you lived in a high tornado area and never been hit by a tornado... get out while you can. Eventually, something will happen, and you won't have enough protection. Good oil is like a storm shelter. It really increases the chance of survival in a storm. Stihl Ultra is like living in a trailer park in Kansas. When the tornado comes, that storm takes everything.
I think the oil mix ratio should be chosen based more on heat. Don't get me wrong I'm not saying 40:1 is bad but many outboard motors lubricate very well at much higher ratio. I think it's the fact that they run much cooler due to water cooling. I'm a 50:1 Sabre guy in power equipment.
It does matter, as a family that has been racing 2 stroke dirtbikes for 40 years, not oils are created equal. Some oils separate in cold weather, some don’t mix with ethanol, some are ashy, some leave a waxy film, some don’t burn and oils your exhaust, and some flash at such a low temperature that they flash in the bottom end before it can lubricant the top end. I was skeptical at first especially after running gallons of probably every kind of oil possible and burning up a few bike motors along the way. I exclusively run saber at 80:1 now. It was scary to take a $3k race engine that calls for 32:1 of yamalube and run it wide open on saber80:1, but now I do with no problems.
yes. I run a 2 stroke outboard rebuild shop, and I would never put oil designed for chainsaws/air cooled in a water cooled motor and vice versa! He was showing TCW3 for outboards and saying it was fine, which, no doubt, motor will run on it. for how long before it sticks a ring and detonates is anyone's guess. they didn't make 2 different classes of oil for no reason!
Everyone talks crap about stihl ultra, but I have a little 270 that's 14 years old, have cut well over a hundred loads of firewood, cleaned the arrestor screen once, carburetor has never been touched.
Since I've switched to using husky or stihl 2 cycle oil i haven't burned up a chaiinsaw or sweed eater ...but all i cut is 12 cord a year and afew logs for my little sawmill....i will never again run those others you are recomending ....i would rather use sae30
I think you may have misunderstood the video. I was not recommending the cheap stuff. I very clearly recommended Red Armor. However, the point that I was trying to make is that non of it will cause harm to your saw, and if you are just a casual user... don't worry about it so much. It all will get the job done for you. Also... you stated that "Since I've switched to using husky or stihl 2 cycle oil i haven't burned up a chainsaw or sweed eater"... Based on that statement, I gotta say, it sounds like you have burnt up a few machines. With only 12 cord a year... your saws should last a lifetime, even with cheap oil. Are you open to the idea that perhaps you aren't doing something right? I have only ever burnt up two saws. One was very clearly my fault because I tuned it too lean, and the other I very purposefully ran it extremely hard to see how well the stihl oil protected it. Under normal use and with a good tune... you should not be burning up your saws.
I used to get no smoke two stroke locally for under a buck. It was great, no smoke. Everything is kind of like it now, very little to no smoke. Anyway I settled on red armor because of the utter trash 5 10 15 dollar saws I have acquired. I splurged yesterday and spent 20 bucks on a 42 cc name brand. It's gettin' red armor.
I use either Amsoil Saber or Echo Red Armor mixed at 40:1 with ethanol free fuel. But I prefer the Saber because I can buy a quart of Saber for the same price as a pint bottle of Red Armor. I’m an occasional saw user, but I run this same mix in my three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys, my trimmers, leaf blower, and even my snow blower if and when it’s needed.
Amsoil Saber is mixed at a ratio of 100:1 and provides sufficient lubrication, Red Armor is 50:1. What's the point of pouring such a large amount of oil? This excess amount of oil will not improve the condition of the piston group.
@@MrGreenjubas. Because I mow with three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys and I have an email directly from Amsoil stating that they don’t recommend going any leaner than a 50:1 mix ratio in them. So I mix at 40:1 and use it in everything I own. Plus Amsoil also states that it can be mixed at manufacturers recommended ratio. I’m not worried about saving a few dollars in the long run, but I definitely want to keep my 46 and 49 year old Lawn-Boys running for a long time.
Slightly oil heavy is always better. I bought some NOS recently… Shindaiwa T2500, Tanaka Tbc255pf, Tbl7800 & Redmax Bc2600. 1995-2008… I have 4 Toro tv5002 mowers with Suzuki engines & 2 Snappers with Robin 2 cycle engines. Most parts are NLA… Vp 101 race fuel mixed at 20:1 & 40:1. Older power tools get more Vp, Saber or Red Armor oil. The built to last era is long gone…
@@twocyclesmokeNice mowers! My machines are green, but I love the old Snapper Hi-Vacs with either the Wisconsin or Tecumseh TV-XL840 engines on them. And those Suzukis are beasts too.
I run lucas in ported saws and they dont show any wear or carbon. I know saber or dominator is better but the lucas is good enough and quite a bit cheaper.
Hell I buy the 6 pack of stihl oil to get the extended warranty when I buy my stihl saws and I take it home and give it to my neighbor who swares by stihl oil but he’s also always bringing me his shit to work on every spring when he needs to use his stuff meanwhile I put my stuff away with a full tank of ethanol free gas and motul in the tank a cpl drops of stabil and they fire right back up in the spring like they were ran the day before!!
Have heard more than once that the stihl hp ultra is terrible. My dad just bought a brand new 261 the other day and they tried to get him to buy it for the extended warranty. The guy was straight up mad that he wouldn’t. I told him if he had bought it to just throw it away. Have seen too many people prove that it’s junk. I am getting ready to switch from the orange bottled stihl to echo red armor. Curious to pull a muffler and do a before and after of deposits on both my saws after they’ve had a gallon of gas each
I don't know how much ECHO Red Armor goes for as I can't find it in my area, I use AMSOIL so it doesn't matter anyway. But Richard Flagg did a test with the VP Racing oil and it burned clean with good lubrication at 40:1. The large bottle usually goes for $10 and mixes about 5 gallons of gas. It's affordable and good in a pinch if you can't get your hands on your favorite oil. :)
@@Slane583 I’d use amsoil in a second if it’s all I had. I really wouldn’t hesitate to use anything. Like I said, I’ve been using the orange bottle stihl oil for years and it’s what my dad uses. Probably 15 years of using that stuff and neither one of us has had a failure. Just a clogged spark arrestor
@@aaronneher4860 From what I've seen from others the stuff in the orange bottle is actually good. Supposedly it is actually manufacture by Castrol. I don't know if it still is though. I mainly started using AMSOIL Saber back in 2015 when I first bought my saw as a suggestion. When I gave it a try I liked it ever since. Sadly the one store in my town I bought my first bottle from no longer sells it. I've been on a hunt for something just as good ever since that is easier to go ahold of. Luckily we have small family owned feed stores around here that also have a small stock of snowmobiling products and they happen to carry AMSOIL Interceptor. I bought a bottle of Interceptor and Dominator last summer to give a try. Sadly I haven't gotten around to doing any cutting. It was just pissing down rain all summer.
@@aaronneher4860 I purchased the Husqvarna premix fuel for the longer warranty of just purchaseing their oil! warranty only states must be purchased at time of purchase never says anything about having to actually use it.
Probably the best e gine makers are Honda and Mercury. Honda has made probably the best 2 strokes and they provide probably the best modern 2 stroke oil, and they say 32:1. Personally rode with a friend with a 500 2 stroke and he ran hard for two days with no oil in the gas. The gas apparently lubricated somewhat. Same with 80:1 and 100:1. Yes it will lubricate some but definitely not optimum lubrication.
I stoped watching her channel after she rebuilt that saw that I’m sure had an air leak. And she only did the top end without looking for the problem. Lost faith in her then lol
RE: Outboard 2-stroke. My father worked as test engineer in an Australian lawn care company called Victa for 40 years. They ran a 160cc two stroke mower engine until the early 2000's. Management had him fly to Europe in 1990 as a lot of the exported engines started seizing around coastal areas. They determined it was the marine 2-stroke oil customers were using which was breaking down at high temps and causing the piston to begin picking up/seizing on the exhaust side. Turns out that marine 2 stroke is more specifically designed for water cooled engines which typically run alot cooler.
Once again love the humor! "It works" can't argue with that but also agree! Good video and good info!
I've always like red armor , works well, has fuel stabilizer in it, and like you said, can grab it from home depot which is 5 minutes away for me
Stihl's oil is Castrol 2 cycle motor oil. If you look at some of the older bottles they have the Castrol name and emblem on them on the back at the bottom of the back label.
Loved your informative and no nonsense talk about Two Stroke Oil, I always used Stihl HP Super because it has a fuel stabiliser, l am heavy handed when it comes to two stroke oil, l am closer to 40:1 than 50:1, totally agree with that, moving parts Love ❤Oil ! Keep up the great content, greetings from Ireland !
I always do 40:1 myself! I watch Richard Flagg also and he can whip down that 400 Stihl inspect it and have it reassembled in no time running top notch! Ive also got a jug of the Honda oil to try to see if it smells good also!
Great video Boedy
Dull chains and bad tunes kill more saws than anything!
Its not really hard to do either, but some people never learn.
Couldn't say it better myself
Yeah i am really new to chainsaws with in the last half year or so I went with Maxima K2 giving that a shot
I've been running 40:1 in an older chainsaw. Recently purchased a CS-590 which recommends 50:1. I like your logic re: using the 40:1 and will use in the CS-590 as well.
I love Richard Flagg's oil test series. He ran the VP Racing oil in one episode and showed that it ran clean and gave good lubrication at 40:1. Plus the big bottle of VP oil goes for $10 so it's affordable. AMSOIL Saber is my preferred default oil but it's like looking for hens teeth in my area and the one store that used to sell it no longer does. But since I'm in an area where snowmobiling is a big thing so a lot of the smaller family run stores carry AMSOIL Interceptor. I bought a quart of Interceptor and Dominator last summer to give a try but it was just pissing down rain all summer. So I never got around to cutting any trees.
Also, Project Farm tested bar oils a few weeks ago and showed that STIHL's own bar oil is just as bad as their pre-mix oil. It caused the most wear out of all the oils tested and the lab test results showed that it had no additive package in it to help prevent bar wear. Funny enough even Husqvarna's own bar oil wasn't all that great for how much it is. One of the best bar oils tested was also the cheapest which was quite amusing. I'll use up my Husky bar oil this coming summer just to get rid of it and I'll go with the Harvest King stuff he tested, I can get a 2 gallon jug for $15 at my local farm store. :)
I liked your video. I’m planing to try red armor at 40:1. I burned a ton of lawn boy at 32:1 with no problems. Stihl ultra has been my go to for years because I had a in with a dealer no problems except for spark arresters and plastics getting terribly dirty and clogged up.
I enjoyed your video and I certainly don’t have virgin ears but some of the superlatives I found to be unnecessary while I was trying to teach my 10 yr old grandson something about mixed gas. I truly believe a good non ethanol gas is more important than the oil at 40:1. Just works for me. A close friend of mine is a mercury master mechanic and has told me numerous times marine 2 stroke oil is for water cooled engines only. Not formulated for air cooled 12-15,000 rpm engines. Have said enough. Have a good evening Sir!
Yes marine oils are a BIG no no for saws
In my work saws and personal saws I use Dominator. It’s a damn good mix oil. I’ve run hundreds of gallons of it mixed up.
Spot on! My experience is the same still Ultra is crap, switched over to Red armor and I was blown away it literally melts the carbon to liquid and burns it out cylinders and pistons look new. Also has helped revive a lot of old saws that haven't ran in years. I run 32 to 1 Echo Red armor in everything old and new. I run Amsoil dominator in my 2-stroke modified blaster that should have blown up already. Both Echo Red armor and Amsoil dominator look identical probably the same stuff. It has extreme protection even in lean conditions when I should have blown things up
Outboard motors run very cool, so the oils also designed for a cooler running engine
Completely agree- Red Armor @ 40 is the safest for daily use with no residual carbon issues.
As far as all the oils go I agree red armor is the best for availability and quality. I always used "head to start" 2 stroke snowmobile oil until it got bought out by Mobil 1 and the name changed. I feel any oil is better than no oil and always run it a little rich. My dad would always say"Spark plugs are cheaper than pistons!" and I've lived by that. Never have I ever blown up an engine from too much oil, but I have found too much causes a lot of extra carbon in a stock machine. I run the small mix ready containers simply because I don't have to measure anything and I'm lazy when I'm at the pump. It's always worked for me! I do run marine oil in my boat and it does seem thinner. I'd say a muffler mod on all small engine equipment and tuning the carb just a tiny bit fat is the best way to keep them cool. Also I run 1/2 a qt of Lucas engine oil stabilizer in my bar oil. That makes it stringy/sticky and keeps the bar cool. Also a sharp chain is #1! I agree stihl oil sucks. Most saws I rebuild that have scored cylinders and half melted pistons are hard core stihl owners that run stihl oil. Great video and I couldn't agree with you more!
I remember Johns Custom Saws liked the VP premix. Have some, but haven't run it yet.
Any idea of what happened to him? The last time that I remember him putting up a video he wasn’t seeming to be doing very well. When he said that it was something intestinal, I asked him if it was Chron’s and then he responded back that it was. I have it and it’s NOT the end of the world. I had a bowel resection in 2004 and I almost died in the hospital because of an infection, but After 6ish months (as far as I remember) I was finally doing what I’ve always done, just pooping like crazy. About 4months back my neurologist had to prescribe me Tramadol for an MS related issue but after that my poop issue is TONS better and almost like I no longer have Chron’s.
I'm using that Stens Mix (AKA Opti-2) in those pouches I sent as a long term experiment more than anything else... I also buy it in the bottles, so I can mix heavier amounts of oil. I run it in everything 2stroke I have even my ported Poulan, so far so good. Next summer when I get my shop built, I'll be opening up that Poulan and having a look at the bottom end and how it all looks after only running the Stens mix at the pouch mix ratio. It might not be the best for all use case scenarios but I can't wait to see how it works long term, already been using it for years. I also %100 agree, just use whatcha got... All of the regular 2stroke oils would not be sold if they didn't work because no one would buy them and therefore it would not be for sale. I would be using a different ratio when i go up to a 70cc saw because I will want the extra oil for extra protection. I have seen so much proof that the Stihl Ultra is bad I definitly won't ever run it. I used to run IPONE 2stroke racing oil in everything and that was amazing and it also smells like strawberry, I may use that again at some point.
I have been in the same camp for years...they all work. Other than the Stihl the only one I wouldn't run is the Super Tech because the one you have is for liquid cooled 2 stroke outboards. I've run the air cooled Super Tech and it's fine. The other question I get often is what ratio to mix? I agree to just go with 40:1 for everything from dirt bikes to model airplane engines.
Team Honda in 90s used yamalube 2r. In Honda HP bottles. Maxima superM is very good for chainsaw. Castor oil will carbon up after awhile been there done that. Use to use my bike gas 927 in my saws a lot . But it's the best protection 🏁🏁 just gotta clean and maintain them
the caster is the one oil you cant mix with other oils (or so iv been told) i been wrong b4. im too old for dirtbikes so i use ELF MOTO2XT i close my eyes and whack the throttle on the 044 and im back on the gate waiting for it to drop!
I've ran alot of Ams oil Saber and had good luck with it. Pretty clean oil and has a great oil film at 40:1
It has a good thick film cuz it runs 100:1 or 80:1 in place of 40:1 or 50:1. I run the same and like it. I like the stabilization that it comes with. So 40:1= 80:1
@@reeksreeks3017 I've ran it at 80:1 but not for long, just dosent seem like any room for error in the tuning.
@@dubbssawshop Been running chainsaws at 50:1 for years given Amsoil's 100:1 claim, my 50:1 should equal 25:1 now how's that for logic?just for perspective that would be 20+yrs burning 5 gallons a week minimum. Been running my KTM dirtbikes at KTM's recommended 80:1 as well with Saber.
@iffykidmn8170 I've heard lots of good things about Sabre at high ratios in KTM bikes
My favorite is Klotz. Smells great too. Smokeless and ashless. Cheers
Which Klotz? They make several different 2 stroke oils.
@@matticus6339 I've used a couple and all the ones I've used have been great at 40:1. I am using TC-W3 for snowmobiles now because it's thinner in the winter but usually use R50 for dirt bikes. Any of them are very good I'm sure. 90 ml oil to 4 L gas. Good stuff.
@@frankz1125yes sir Klotz smells nice used it in my race bikes way back when 💪
Castor oil gums everything up. We only used Koltz in race bikes with 15-25 hour max time between rebuilds, and by then they were filthy.
@@OtisFlint interesting. I run it in my ported saws and it is great. Didn't seem overly dirty but well lubricanted . I do run 40:1. Cheers
I've burned many many gallons of the Premixed VP Racing 40:1 fuel with excellent results. All of my two stroke outdoor equipment runs it flawlessly. Everything from my cheap Echo weadeaters and blowers all the way up to my hopped up, ported, high compression Husqvarna 365. Easy starting, cool running, low carbon buildup, stable octane rating, long shelf life (when properly stored) and great wear protection. Plus as an added bonus; it smells like a day at the race track every time I break out the two stroke tools.
Red Armor is great as well. I just got tired of keeping track of the constantly multiplying/disappearing 1-2.5 gallon jugs of mixed gas. Was that ethanol free? Did I already mix it or is it virgin gas? How long has that been rolling around the truck bed? Did I do my math right or did I just mix that at 29.2:1? All of that aggravation is rectified by using the premix. That's worth the extra cost to me.
Love some 927. I just mixed up a fresh batch Sunday. I just wish Maxima would put some dye in it. 927 is a castor blend, Klotz makes a castor blend as well, there Super Techniplate, has dye in it but never tried it. The smell of 927 is just amazing.
A drop or two of Transtint dye in the fuel?
I've been using Super tech TCW3 Marine 2 Stroke at 40:1 with e free gas and stabilizer. Have yet to have ANY lubrication related issues. I've had MANY people tell me OH it's for water cooled 2 strokes not air cooled. It's funny that I've been running it in ALL of my equipment for years. I'll let them know if i have a failure related to it. But it works even in my 14,000rpm Zenoah Clone with 372XP carb custom intake & lightly ported filter horn, cylinder intake, exhaust, and piston transfer ports. It only has normal wear when I pulled the cylinder to check it for wear after some hard testing.
At least you're mixing 40:1, could even go richer if you wanted - especially during a break in. Glad that stuff is working well for you.
Someone picking up a random marine 2 stroke oil and mixing it at 50:1 or 100:1 might not be so lucky, plenty of saws have been burned up like this
I run cheapest 2 stroke oil I can buy at 40:1 in my real 372xp and it’s a beast
@@Thumper68 Anything is better than nothing.
@@MrBooMY3 dang right I was in agreement with your original comment. If it came across different my bad
@@MrBooMY3No shit?
I run 40:1 in my personal equipment, which incidentally is the same fuel I put in my customers equipment. I tend to buy oil by the gallon and use a mix bottle. Currently, I'm messing around with the Stihl Ultra oil. I am disappointed that its only JASO FB rated though. I have seen quite a few engines with low compression with Ultra oil in the tank come across my bench. I have seen quite a few with TruFuel as well. However, I don't think I've seen much, if any engine failure with the Stihl "High Performance" oil.
Started running the HP2 at 40:1 in all my Echo and Stihl equipment, largely due to Richard Flagg. Though I haven’t done a tear down, it still runs pretty clean, and the engines are slightly cooler by about 5-10 degrees F. The spark plug and arrestor screen do get dirtier quicker, likely due to 40:1 vs 50:1.
Can you do a video on what octane gas is best to use as well? I’ve always used 87 octane with ethanol shield, sea foam and never has any issues.
redbull 661 did a lot of great testing with red armor....piston stays clean and smells good!
Man, my boy’s used to ride 2 stroke bikes and the guy that tutored me on 2 strokes ran 36:1 in his bikes. So I went to that with Castor 927 in the mix. I fly RC planes and have always loved the smell of RC gas exhaust and it had the same smell. It does tend to gum up the rings if you let them sit for a while but a shot of fresh gas down the top and let it sit usually loosens them up. I have run 40:1 on my saws and weed eater gas for years and it does make your stuff last a lot longer. I run Husky oil ow simply because all my saws are husky. Much love from NC.
Klotz for me 🤘specifically the snowmobile oil. The smell is totally worth it 👌
Yup totally agree with you there. My grandfather always used regular motor oil. What ever he had in the truck at the time. Laughed at me when I would measure out my 2 cycle motor oil. I laugh now just thinking about it. Poor pop simpler times I guess.
First off, not a stab at Richard at all. But I think his video almost doubled the price of HP2 on Amazon. I watched the video on it and added it to my cart @ $16.99 but didnt buy it since I have plenty of RA right now.. Its now $27.99... I hate when that happens on Amazon. 🙄
I just ran 16 ounces of this through my little KX 65 worked pretty good
Very well said👍🏻 sure, a lot of us have our preferences and there are definitely oils better suited to different applications but at the end of the day, almost anything will work at sensible ratios.
The HP2 has a neutral smell IMO. Close to Red Armor just not as sweet.
I run Lucas semi synthetic after years of using anything I saw on the store shelf. But I changed after hearing Iron Horse, I figure if it is good enough for a fellow his age that used and torn down and repaired 100s or 1000s of saws and he is a wood cutter too, and he loves his saws- So Lucas 40-1 and not another thought about it. And it is available where I live, also tried Red Armour, but that is not even sold here.
As long as an oil meets ISO EG-B C or D standards I will run it. My favourite brand is called "on special", and if that isn't available, my next go to brand is "whatever is cheap" - sounds like I have been lucky, because where I come from I can assure you I am in no danger of burning up my gear on Stihl oil, as it is never "on special" or "cheap"
Been using red armor 2 yrs works great. Used redmax works good too but more carbon. Used amsoil saber and failed on redmax trimmer. Yes I would the right ratio. Tried again on a used trimmer and it failed also. No more amsoil saber. Curious on the Honda hp2 or the bel ray
I run 90/10 Klotz/Castor in my RC engines and nothing protects bearings as good as Castor oil. Currently, in my saws, I’m running Amsoil Saber @ 40:1, really like it. Used Husky LS for many years without issue too.
Great video. Now, about the Stihl Ultra, I have a Stihl 4 mix engine that only runs properly off of it for some reason (when I tried other oils, it ran like total crap). I read somewhere that the stihl ultra oil was designed for their 4 mix engines and not specifically for 2 strokes.
For my other 2 stroke equipment, I use white bottle Stihl oil, simply because they come in these cute little pre-measured bottles.
lol, you crack me up! i had to sub!
I do completely agree on the subject of the worst oil. That being said, does anyone know why?
I’ve seen a lot of videos on WHAT it does but never a comprehensive reason why it does it.
Super Tech is pretty much all I ever use and have never had any issues.
I totally agree with 40:1. I have over a dozen saws and run them almost daily. Some are old some are new they all get 40:1!
Motul 800 I use it at 50:1 and have had no problems but like you said Red Armor is good as well . I use 101 octane ethanol free racing fuel so it’s clean of additives that kill 2Stroke motors .
Mogul 800 is the bomb.
Works beautifully. Near 25 years using it out to 65:1.
Clean as a whistle.
Australia.
Motul 800 is arguably the best pre-mix oil on the planet. No good for injection (too thick), but does incredibly well pre-mixed in race bikes.
I use the same oil and either the 101 or 110 octane racing gas as well tear a saw down and it’s pristine inside!
i totally agree that any oil will work but i judge an oil when then saw burns up and to see the damage .i have had some very good experience with some synth..... oils that saved cylinders in the compression area and yes 40 to 1 ratio i also believe a high flash point is important to get more lub to the entire engine!
I've used 40.1 comma 2 stroke and a dash of citronella oil.in my old 181 husky result no biting mosquitoes .
Just found you’re channel,
Lol fuck I like this guy. Straight to the point, about time.
I have one cautionary tale from using Maxima 927, mixed with 100LL avgas. This was/ is my favorite mix in my kx500, banshee and rz350 because it smells so good. But, at cold temperatures 927 will separate in leaded gas. Not a problem in a Jerry can because you can just shake it up. But if it separates in the fuel tank and you forget to shake the machine you can end up filling the carb bowls with straight oil, which is too thick to even drain out of the bowl drains on a motorcycle. So it requires a complete carb removal and cleaning. And on my old 028 stihl it just formed a gel on the fuel filter and it would not pump fuel until warmed up enough it would mix back into the gas. Just one of those things to be aware of, and is no big deal for an enthusiast but could be a headscratcher for the average homeowner. Although I suppose the average homeowner isn't likely running avgas and bean oil.
It separates in regular fuel below 30f too, it's wrong application to be using castor in a saw for sure.. it's main purpose is to prevent seizure in high stress motors that are torn down often and it'll build up a lot of gunk
All 2 strokes 40:1 any FD or greater rated 2 stroke mix oil. And never use sthil ultra for anything but starting a fire. Personally my go-to choice oil is Schaefer's XP 2-cycle it's clean does an excellent job. It has built in friction modifiers, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, which create a slippery, tenacious shield to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Even when you’re pushing your machine to the limit in demanding conditions. < Yes I copied that part from their website mostly for spelling 🤣. Great video and it is very true most any oil will work and be just fine with the exception of sthil ultra FB rated oil and a couple others that are also lower than FD rated carbon builders and lacking lubrication value as well.
Man iv run Lucas for ever and never had issues from dirt bikes to my saws
Agreed. Just keep it simple :D
I use HP2. Smells nice, kinda evergreenie.
Cheapest stuff I can find is the stihl orange bottle. $30 a gallon at my dealer. I mix 200 gallons a year at 50-1 with no issues
I've heard quite a few people say the stihl orange bottle oil is miles better than the ultra.. not top tier but a decent oil for the price.
I just use Husqvarna pre-mix fuel in those cans. If something happens to my saw I can provide all the receipts showing it’s the only stuff I buy. My 585 rips and I love it! I do recommend 2-4 ounces of SeaFoam at the beginning and end of every season to clean out some of that carbon buildup.
I get oil by the gallon and mixing at 32 to 1 is so easy , all even oncuces no 3.2 no3.6 just nice and easy 3.0 4.0 ect. Works for me . 👍
OK, thought u were going to go one level deeper, the ester vs. paraffin vs dino vs bean etc. , and the different generations of synthetics all have different burn characteristics that effect lubricity & carbon build up. Working from the perspective of understanding the base stock and how that effects the final product will help "predict" the characteristics of the oil. AND you are right, most will work or they would not be on the market. But some work better than others in different applications and work scenario's. AND the definition of "Better" oil is defined with matching the base stock with the application. BUT just a farmer....and I am not wasting with my mix choice. The oils I avoid are any paraffin based oil, any of the early generation synthetics like the Bel-Ray MC1 . The oils I like are typically marketed as "synthetic blends' ( I chose based on base stock ) and the better ester based oils like Bel-Ray H1R :) Some of the "Autotunes" felt the wrath of the paraffins. :)
My poor 346 didn’t know there was bad 2-stroke oil until Facebook groups were a thing. I apologized to it for feeding it Tractor Supply and Walmart oil for 20 years. I do just put the Stihl Ultra in my old 7.3 when I get it given to me with a saw😂
I love the red armor and it works and keeps carbon down.
Red armor contains Polybutene which keeps the deposits low but by itself is not an optimal lubricant according to a paper from Yamaha. Cheap mineral based 2 stroke oil lubricates fine but leaves more deposits. These deposits can cause scoring of the piston if they dislodge. Also the exhaust port, muffler and spark arrestor will plug up using cheap low detergent oil. Use FD rated oil to take advantage of the most current oil technology.
@Novice lumberjack love it!!!!!!!
You ever tried opti 2 2 cycle oil in any of you're saws and weed wackers
Is Synthetic 2 stroke oil ok to use in my weed trimmer ?
Have you ever used ARFTSOLUTIONS OIL TREATMENT? It keeps the motor running cooler for shure.
Whats your experience using snowmobile or marine two stroke oil in chainsaws?
Myself run Shell Advance Ultra Snow (synthetic) marketed as a snowmobile premix/injection oil in all my 2-strokes,
chainsaws (40:1) and even my YZ125 (30:1) motocross race bike.
Similar to Amsoil Interceptor but even cleaner burning and more importantly, a better residual film on parts.
Maxima 927 for milling, at 32 to 1?
I've been using cheap 2cycle oil and regular gas for years even decades now but I drain the tanks and run till dry.
Personally I never go heavier than 60:1 on oil, only exception would be a small bore MX bike. 250cc and up, 60:1 is plenty. A high-quality synthetic just doesn't need that much oil to lubricate everything, adding extra just makes a gunked up mess. The mix in my power equipment now is about 80:1 with Amsoil Saber, no issues. My 300cc cross country bike is injected and averages about 80:1. 150 hours and the motor is in great shape.
Redbull661 has a video on the Honda HP2 also.. HP2 "Smurfs Blood" is all I run.
The Husqy manual says clearly not to use 2T marine oil, you can say goodbye to the warranty. At least here in Europe
Why tell them what you're using? The Synthetic Super tech 2 stroke non marine is still blue.
I love stihl motomix never had any issues
That's good. I am very glad for you, seriously. Lots of folks have never had an issue. My advice is the same as if you told me you lived in a high tornado area and never been hit by a tornado... get out while you can. Eventually, something will happen, and you won't have enough protection. Good oil is like a storm shelter. It really increases the chance of survival in a storm. Stihl Ultra is like living in a trailer park in Kansas. When the tornado comes, that storm takes everything.
Optimal or Optimul one name or the other comes in packages too.
the Stihl 2 stroke oil, is it really bad because it's used in non Stihl engines?
I have VP full synthetic. $10 for a 16oz bottle with a built in ratio cup.
What about the revs! Tha's where the oli goes wrong. I use racing oil. 747 Gastrol.
I think the oil mix ratio should be chosen based more on heat. Don't get me wrong I'm not saying 40:1 is bad but many outboard motors lubricate very well at much higher ratio. I think it's the fact that they run much cooler due to water cooling. I'm a 50:1 Sabre guy in power equipment.
IMO- the marine oils are top shelf. Castrol super outboard at 40:1 has been my go to with E free 93 premium. & No carbon issues.
I've read that marine engines run much cooler then chainsaws. Both my Stihl and husky manuals specifically say do not use outboard motor oil.
It does matter, as a family that has been racing 2 stroke dirtbikes for 40 years, not oils are created equal. Some oils separate in cold weather, some don’t mix with ethanol, some are ashy, some leave a waxy film, some don’t burn and oils your exhaust, and some flash at such a low temperature that they flash in the bottom end before it can lubricant the top end. I was skeptical at first especially after running gallons of probably every kind of oil possible and burning up a few bike motors along the way. I exclusively run saber at 80:1 now. It was scary to take a $3k race engine that calls for 32:1 of yamalube and run it wide open on saber80:1, but now I do with no problems.
yes. I run a 2 stroke outboard rebuild shop, and I would never put oil designed for chainsaws/air cooled in a water cooled motor and vice versa! He was showing TCW3 for outboards and saying it was fine, which, no doubt, motor will run on it. for how long before it sticks a ring and detonates is anyone's guess. they didn't make 2 different classes of oil for no reason!
Excellent video! I have the same opinion as you
There's a couple oils I use , Husqvarna oil and Stihl oil isn't one of them! Castor 927 , K2 , klotz is my #1 go to premix oil
Everyone talks crap about stihl ultra, but I have a little 270 that's 14 years old, have cut well over a hundred loads of firewood, cleaned the arrestor screen once, carburetor has never been touched.
Since I've switched to using husky or stihl 2 cycle oil i haven't burned up a chaiinsaw or sweed eater ...but all i cut is 12 cord a year and afew logs for my little sawmill....i will never again run those others you are recomending ....i would rather use sae30
I think you may have misunderstood the video. I was not recommending the cheap stuff. I very clearly recommended Red Armor. However, the point that I was trying to make is that non of it will cause harm to your saw, and if you are just a casual user... don't worry about it so much. It all will get the job done for you. Also... you stated that "Since I've switched to using husky or stihl 2 cycle oil i haven't burned up a chainsaw or sweed eater"... Based on that statement, I gotta say, it sounds like you have burnt up a few machines. With only 12 cord a year... your saws should last a lifetime, even with cheap oil. Are you open to the idea that perhaps you aren't doing something right? I have only ever burnt up two saws. One was very clearly my fault because I tuned it too lean, and the other I very purposefully ran it extremely hard to see how well the stihl oil protected it. Under normal use and with a good tune... you should not be burning up your saws.
i'm not sure i'd show a bottle of water cooled TCW3 outboard oil and suggest you run it in an air cooled motor, but thats just me.
I mix at 32:1
Richard Flagg is great!
Congrats on 10K!!!! I’ve been running Ultra since I was just just an itch in my daddy’s pants and never had an issue. 😂😂
😂👍🏻
😂😂😂
I use Bel Ray H1R at 40:1
I used to get no smoke two stroke locally for under a buck. It was great, no smoke. Everything is kind of like it now, very little to no smoke.
Anyway I settled on red armor because of the utter trash 5 10 15 dollar saws I have acquired.
I splurged yesterday and spent 20 bucks on a 42 cc name brand.
It's gettin' red armor.
I use either Amsoil Saber or Echo Red Armor mixed at 40:1 with ethanol free fuel. But I prefer the Saber because I can buy a quart of Saber for the same price as a pint bottle of Red Armor. I’m an occasional saw user, but I run this same mix in my three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys, my trimmers, leaf blower, and even my snow blower if and when it’s needed.
Amsoil Saber is mixed at a ratio of 100:1 and provides sufficient lubrication, Red Armor is 50:1. What's the point of pouring such a large amount of oil? This excess amount of oil will not improve the condition of the piston group.
@@MrGreenjubas. Because I mow with three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys and I have an email directly from Amsoil stating that they don’t recommend going any leaner than a 50:1 mix ratio in them. So I mix at 40:1 and use it in everything I own. Plus Amsoil also states that it can be mixed at manufacturers recommended ratio. I’m not worried about saving a few dollars in the long run, but I definitely want to keep my 46 and 49 year old Lawn-Boys running for a long time.
Slightly oil heavy is always better. I bought some NOS recently… Shindaiwa T2500, Tanaka Tbc255pf, Tbl7800 & Redmax Bc2600. 1995-2008… I have 4 Toro tv5002 mowers with Suzuki engines & 2 Snappers with Robin 2 cycle engines. Most parts are NLA… Vp 101 race fuel mixed at 20:1 & 40:1. Older power tools get more Vp, Saber or Red Armor oil. The built to last era is long gone…
@@twocyclesmokeNice mowers! My machines are green, but I love the old Snapper Hi-Vacs with either the Wisconsin or Tecumseh TV-XL840 engines on them. And those Suzukis are beasts too.
The best oil for it’s cost is Lucas. The best oil period is saber.
I run lucas in ported saws and they dont show any wear or carbon. I know saber or dominator is better but the lucas is good enough and quite a bit cheaper.
Hell I buy the 6 pack of stihl oil to get the extended warranty when I buy my stihl saws and I take it home and give it to my neighbor who swares by stihl oil but he’s also always bringing me his shit to work on every spring when he needs to use his stuff meanwhile I put my stuff away with a full tank of ethanol free gas and motul in the tank a cpl drops of stabil and they fire right back up in the spring like they were ran the day before!!
80:1 Opti2 with 90 octane! Been doin' it for 35 years !
Excellent.
Test sum marina oil to
100/1 Amsoil❤
i run 32:1 motul 800 trail n castrol a747
Have heard more than once that the stihl hp ultra is terrible. My dad just bought a brand new 261 the other day and they tried to get him to buy it for the extended warranty. The guy was straight up mad that he wouldn’t. I told him if he had bought it to just throw it away. Have seen too many people prove that it’s junk. I am getting ready to switch from the orange bottled stihl to echo red armor. Curious to pull a muffler and do a before and after of deposits on both my saws after they’ve had a gallon of gas each
I don't know how much ECHO Red Armor goes for as I can't find it in my area, I use AMSOIL so it doesn't matter anyway. But Richard Flagg did a test with the VP Racing oil and it burned clean with good lubrication at 40:1. The large bottle usually goes for $10 and mixes about 5 gallons of gas. It's affordable and good in a pinch if you can't get your hands on your favorite oil. :)
@@Slane583 I’d use amsoil in a second if it’s all I had. I really wouldn’t hesitate to use anything. Like I said, I’ve been using the orange bottle stihl oil for years and it’s what my dad uses. Probably 15 years of using that stuff and neither one of us has had a failure. Just a clogged spark arrestor
@@aaronneher4860 From what I've seen from others the stuff in the orange bottle is actually good. Supposedly it is actually manufacture by Castrol. I don't know if it still is though.
I mainly started using AMSOIL Saber back in 2015 when I first bought my saw as a suggestion. When I gave it a try I liked it ever since. Sadly the one store in my town I bought my first bottle from no longer sells it. I've been on a hunt for something just as good ever since that is easier to go ahold of.
Luckily we have small family owned feed stores around here that also have a small stock of snowmobiling products and they happen to carry AMSOIL Interceptor. I bought a bottle of Interceptor and Dominator last summer to give a try. Sadly I haven't gotten around to doing any cutting. It was just pissing down rain all summer.
@@aaronneher4860 I purchased the Husqvarna premix fuel for the longer warranty of just purchaseing their oil! warranty only states must be purchased at time of purchase never says anything about having to actually use it.
Man you hit the nail on the head there it happened to me. 2 weeks after warranty my 361 blew up and the dealer laughed about it. F..k Stihl .
Probably the best e gine makers are Honda and Mercury. Honda has made probably the best 2 strokes and they provide probably the best modern 2 stroke oil, and they say 32:1.
Personally rode with a friend with a 500 2 stroke and he ran hard for two days with no oil in the gas. The gas apparently lubricated somewhat. Same with 80:1 and 100:1. Yes it will lubricate some but definitely not optimum lubrication.
Chickanic did a review on 2 stroke oils and it should be watched....
She’s pretty solid!
I stoped watching her channel after she rebuilt that saw that I’m sure had an air leak. And she only did the top end without looking for the problem. Lost faith in her then lol
@@Robert-uh6bxright..saw had her perplexed n if shed done pressure/vac test shed found the leak in 5 min instead of the 5 days it took her..
I’ll have to check it out…
@@Robert-uh6bx if she got rid of the tight clothes her channel would fold, hack!