Hi, you're doing a great job, half the battle is just deciding on an effective strategy without tearing apart the whole boat. I'm working on my Coronado 41, just got it indoors for the first time and that helps. Good luck, you're doing well. Skipper Andy
I'm a kiwi boat builder, having built with these systems a lot. To save a lot of work - those bulkheads where installed with the deck off! I suggest the following - Just replace the rot section 4" inboard of the hull from deck to sole. If you can get to both sides of the bulkhead along the hull where it needs replacing, this is a easier way ok. 1st, remove all loose joinery including doors etc to get at it all. 2nd, with a hot melt glue gun take a pattern of the hull using core-flute board - disposable signs are made of it (pinch a few real estate signs!) so, with a craft knife cut, trim to fit the hull shape, use drawing pins to hold onto the bulkhead, as you go along, hot glue each piece you fit together ok, this will get you a perfect fit - not that you need to along the hull. Go from under deck to the cabin sole (where that 1/4 gap is). With this pattern go to step 3. 3. Take said pattern aloft and onto you new ply sheet, pin it to ply and mark the shape. 4. Jigsaw the shape to within a 1/8 inch or so, not important - see why later. Don't forget to mark - not cut, the under deck line and sole line, just saw past these lines a bit when cutting hull shape ok. 5, With a short stick or rule/tape measure, spoon, fork, say, at 4 inch long, scribe the hull shape inside that hull shape you just cut to end up with 4" stripe of new ply bulkhead & jigsaw cut, from sole to deck line. 6. Cut to this line, again just a bit past the deck/sole line. Now you can cut the deck & sole line. You now have a ply panel the shape of your hull/deck & sole, 4 inch wide. 7. Take this on board inside the forward locker, place against bulkhead & to the hull, this is where it is good that this is not a tight cut ply, you need this to fit a little loose see, or you won't get it in ok. 8. With this ply (trimmed with jigsaw to fit a little loose) placed against the bulkhead, mark the existing bulkhead on the inner side of this new ply, the 4 inch marked and cut earlier. This will be the rotten bulkhead you jigsaw cut and remove. - give yourself wiggle room, doesn't need to be tight, 1/8 gap is good all around. 9. remove all traces of the old glass tabbing and ANY dirty, crappy glass, paint, oil, wax, 6 inches forward and aft of the bulkhead where ever it is to be re-glassed. 10. Have a shower & beer - very much deserved at this stage! 11. Fit new bulkhead into place, temp hold with small stripes of off-cut ply with dryline screws or similar, across the old to new ply join, I'd say 4 inch below the deck & above the sole and 2 equally spaced in between. This will hold it in place whilst tapping with new glass - see below for this glassing step. check that existing joinery is all ok with new ply and if you need to glue it to the existing joinery, if you do need to glue it to the existing joinery, do it now, and screw if needed (epoxy ok) it's good to check. 12. Now mix thickened epoxy resin (use their instructions on this) thick enough that it will not sag off your mixing "putty" knife ok, I'd use a 1 1/2" wide blade, fill the gaps all around the areas you will be glass tabbing, hull, deck(?) sole(?) AND the gap between the new and existing ply bulkhead. If you are working in hot weather then flatten out the thick chit ok, you don't want to be sanding anything in there. Don't worry about a mess with this if you can glass tab right after this filling ok, while the filler is still not set. With a short - say 6" long X 1-1/2" dia pvc tube or similar, fillet a cove in the hull/new ply corner (deck, where ever you glass tab ok) - this is so when you glass her up the glass will not have a long bubble there and also for structural reasons. 12a. Buying 12oz double bias to make for easy tabbing X by 6 layers each side (can never get enough - it's cheap enough) Now you can glass tab in between the temp timbers screwed on with drywall screws ok, use double bias 45,45 deg, just one layer say 3" wide and to go from 2" on the hull, over new ply and onto existing bulkhead 2" (that's 8") next to those temp timbers. When set, remove said temp timbers (ply what ever) 14. With damp (wetish) cloth remove the epoxy blush - this is a waxy type stuff, you will probably have read about this with your resin purchase. Follow it, I know it's not a male thing to do reading instructions, but do it anyway. 15. Cut your double bias glass to 4" wider than the repair which is 4' on the hull, 4" of new ply & 4" existing ply bulkhead = 12" x width of the glass you bought (54" wide or 36" wide off the roll?) so remember the weave is going 45 deg to your cut. Cut enough for the length of the hull (up-and-dicular) both sides - 6 layers. - layers will be 1" narrower as you lay up the glass, so 1st layer will be 12", next 10" next 8" etc. so, as you glass her up each layer will be 1" inside the one you just glassed in ok. 16. Mask off any areas not wanting glass OR spilt resin INCL your sole from companion way to past the bulkhead - I warn you lol! 17. Mix pint sized lots, this stuff goes off in bulk containers and is expensive, grab your brush and rollers (glassing roller) hop below with the resin and glass her up brudder! 18. IF you want to have a really clean finish, buy 2 yards of 'peel oly' this you can now apply over the finished glassing AND any wet resin areas you accidentally applied the stuff to, which if like me will be from head to toe.... now, easy, this isn't for applying to your legs head arms etc ok.... IMPORTANT - apply peel ply in 18" squares, so pre-cut it, it's like nylon, thin and plurry hard to roll on flat without wrinkles if in one big size. As you apply it just roll it flat each piece before the next and overlap an inch for good measure WITH A 1" X 4" DRY ROLLER short hair one is best. You can see through the stuff too, roll out those air bubbles you'll see too.
Amazing comment.. appreciate the experience, advice, thought and time spent. Its something Ill be filing to be reviewed anytime I do this kind of work.
+Sailing with SV Wild Hare hi, I built boats in the past as well, my experience is not all that but its enough to be able to say that tbe kiwi got it dead on! Nasty job but its worth it eyh. :) good luck
So I get the remove, replace and glass the crap out of part. But what I don't see mention of is the fact that the mast is off to one side presumably because it is pulling the bulkhead up off the cabin sole. Don't you need to get Settled back to their proper position before glassing it all down? How is that normally done?
I watched your video a couple of days ago and have thought about different ways I would repair the bulkhead. For once I have run out of ideas to help without dismantling your home, but I think you are on the right track.Keep us updated as we watch your progress. I don't know if you follow Have wind will travel but they we were in a similar situation with rot and Annie did a very good job of showing what it took to refit their sailboat. They got some very good advice along the way. Take Care. Muir
I do happen to watch that channel and we are supporters of each other's patreon page. Spoken with her a number different times about different situations we've come across including whether or not to continue doing CZcams a while back. I think I've got the whole thing figured out, it's going to take a bit of time in a bit of work but it's going to look really nice and the boat going to be a hell of a lot stiffer. Thanks again for watching and for commenting. Glad you enjoyed the videos.
I watch Sail Life, Mas is really good with the camera and his voice is just over the top calming. I hated it when I first heard it, seemed somehow grating, but now it's somehow comforting, I believe he just might calm a hurricane with his voice alone. Nice looking boat. I say R&R the bulkhead, remove and replace!
You should check out a channel called cruising the cut. It's a British guy on a narrow boat. I guess he was some type of a radio or TV personality before doing this. The whole videos are very calming
could have got that boat you show a pix of,she was in Panama about to sink..Glad I went with glass boat not wood...plus they wanted way to much for it...Be safe love sail life.
Yes it is in a hidden area cut out the rot clean all surfaces sister strips of plywood each side glue screw and tab with fiberglass both sides even if you install a new bulkhead that was done as said before it was installed before the deck was put in you will have to piece it together . you may have to work in small sections but it is doable . slow and steady
Sandwich it. Both sides. Cut out the rotted wood, then go with 4" wide, about 2' long (or however long is needed to go a few inches past the rotted portions), 3/4" thick marine plywood radiused and tabbed to the hull. I would bolt through the banana-shaped bracing and the bulkhead on each side, just for good measure. You will have crated an epoxy or polyester or Vinalester 'U' channel of wood and FRP that 'grips' the bulkhead. It'll be stronger than factory. You shouldn't have to worry about the line you're creating showing through to the outside, but if you're worried about it, add right angle triangle strips running the length of your additional tab pieces to spread the internal 'imprint.' By the way, a guy I talked to, who seemed to know his business, said to never use epoxy on fiberglass polyester boat repair. Always polyester or Vinalester. Adheres better, he says, and incorporates "chaining", which, according to him, epoxy doesn't. And I gotta say, epoxy does have that slick, glossy surface when cured whereas my Jason 35 has on its polyester original build surface off the inside of the hull is a dull, matte finish. I'm still planning to look into his claims, but it seems right. Good luck.
My opinion for what its worth......seems that bulkhead edge to hull is only rotten a inche or so, I agree with you....remove rotten areas and fill. I would then profile a piece of marine ply approx 12 to 16 inches and laminate to existing bulkhead. Threw bolt new section to old. Glass hull to new ply.
If it was me I'd go to a fiber-glass shop where they sell sheets already made up and get a piece 3/8 thick or more, cut to fit and glass it in. then it's part of the boat and won't rot! you can gel coat or paint or teak venire. A piece of teak that size would cost more than the glass. Up hear 5 gal. of resin cost about $140.00 you can build a lot with that much.
I have a sheet of 3/4 Meranti marina grade plywood on the way. 240 bucks with shipping but it will outlast me. slowly but surely making some big plans to redesign the entire thing. Stay tuned, this is going to get interesting.
Man i feel with you. Facing very similar problems on my boat since sailing in bad conditions through the gulf of biscay and english channel this year. Missing reinforcements on my lower shrouds lifted up my deck. Leakages weakened the reinforcements for the upper shrouds attached to my bulkhead and caused a vertical crack. My plan is to double the bulkhead wood instead of ripping the old one out and putting a new one. And of course relaminate the connection between hull and bulkhead(s)...This stuff makes you paranoid. :(
I don't think things are as bad as you might think Chris. I checked the bottom of Circe's bulkhead and it doesn't reach the sole, it is about 1/4" up, so I don't think your bulkhead has lifted. Re the misalignment of the door trim, I think the iffy fit was pretty much the way it left the factory.....Islander cabinetry was often marginal, particularly the post 1980 boats. The rot seems to be localised so I suggest you dig out the worst of it, kill the rest with Git Rot and sister in a 2-3 inch wide reinforcement of 1/2" thick Hydrotek saturated with penetrating epoxy. You could then re-tab the whole edge of the bulkhead, over the reinforcement, with some wide tape like you discussed. Good luck.
I have friends across from me that are very experienced cruisers. We talked about it for quite awhile. The time it would take to repair it was far greater than replacing it. New and way better wood is on its way and it will alow me to correct the large gaps and make a few cosmetic and structual changes. I was surprised to see that the bulkhead wasn't tabbed to the side of the cabin top or the sole.
I suppose this is the disadvantage to having chain plates inboard as opposed to directly to the hull... The deck space is nice but... Best advice of the day, " if you have a leak on your boat boys and girls, fix it..."
Definitely have a lot more opportunity with Jane Playskool going through the deck but even outboard you could get leaks I guess. Absolutely essential to rebed and check for leaks frequently. There were many places on this boat that had been vetted with improper or cheap material or had never been done. Everything has been done at this point now it's just a matter of dealing with the damage from other owners.
SV Wild Hare absolutely. The thing with the chain plates attached out board to the hull the stresses on that bulkhead are compression stresses. Built as yours is they are tension stresses, that is it is trying to pull itself apart... In any case had the leaks been addressed it should've been quite sufficient. Just found this video by the way. Look forward to seeing how you address it as I'm am seriously considering shopping for a project live aboard as well... Cheers.
thanks. extremely unique design for its age. It's just a piece of wood , I'll get it fixed and make it better than it was. Thanks for watching and commenting.
actually surprised how much I enjoyed the engineering aspect of taking it all apart and seeing how it was constructed. I'm definitely not a woodworker or Carpenter but I guess there's enough wood on this damn boat I'm going to have to figure it out sometime;)
It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be and I felt much better about the structural Integrity of the boat when I was finished. Plus I was able to make a few changes that improved things. Best of luck.
Wasn't nearly as difficult as I had envisioned. I have the bulkhead in my garage right now, need to apply the final finish and replace. Adding a plywood backer for the chain plate bolts too
Glad to hear it. One thing I've learned is that every time I take on an overwhelming project and accomplish it I'm that much more confident the next time I have to do something.
You might consider using HDPE which can be sistered to the bulkhead and then glassed into place. Start by cutting out all of the rot. Then make a pattern ( see how to do that on Tips from a Shipwright) that you will use to butt the new part to the hull. You can fill the void with whatever is easiest to use, then fit the HDPE. you will want to thru bolt it to the existing bulkhead s be sure to leave enough room for a strong bolt pattern. Finally fiberglass the bulkhead in place. Good luck
thanks for the advice. I decided for structural stability and the fact that it holds the main chainplate to just replace the entire bulkhead. The next video in the series shows that if you care to watch.
One thing i've never understood in boat building (and in particular fiberglass shell boat building) is why there's absolutely no reinforcing on all those tie points. Basically Joe (at the factory) came in, drilled 5 holes, tied them in, then threw that brace through the deck. That's never going to work, the boat shifts, it bends, there's motion. Personally, i'd raise the thing up by a few cm (to get it from the ground) with fiberglass in to the structure of the boat, so not just off the wooden deck, through it.That would prevent any water coming in, ever.
I would like to mention that it's a common practice on flat roof houses where there's a tie point with something beneath it, i really don't get why it's not "a thing" in boating, where it's thrice adamant to keep water away. As for what i'd do? Well, i'd take the bulkhead (that side) off, route the whole rot out, re-edge it with solid wood bent to shape. Go to /channel/UClPa3pmqKwApysaYi7B7Nlg (channel name Tips from a Shipwright), he has a very easy way to steam bend wood in to shape, in situ, which for you would translate to a kettle and a long bag for the replacement strip. That would give you a very solid panel, AND if you choose a rot resistant wood, even if you don't modify the deck, it won't ever rot again. Bonus points, it won't cost you much of anything since the bulkhead remains in place largely.
I would put the boat on the hard to see if loading the keel might close your gaps. Otherwise, I would grind (carefully) the rotten part of the bulkhead and grind prep the portion of the hull to be re-glassed / tabbed. After prepping and cleaning, I would precut chop stand with each layer getting bigger. I see no need to replace the bulkhead, I would neatly re-glass it using chop stand and polyester resin. It will be as solid as a rock. Yes, very nasty well living aboard.
To late for this comment to mean anything now but I would have laminated over the existing wood once cleaned away the rot with another plywood epoxied to the existing one from the damaged side, then tabbed the new plywood into the hull.
It wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be. I certainly would’ve done a few things differently the second time, but it turned out pretty well. Do you research on proper tapping, take your time, cutting out the new bulkhead, and I would recommend if you’re going to do any kind of sealant on the wood do it before you install it.
probably long sorted but looks like the bottom has kicked out towards the center !...i would cut out rot and put a piece of wood trim (substantial) down the section and re-glass!
leaving the chain plates attached to what was left of the bulkhead wouldn't have done any good. The Edge where it was tabbed to the hull was completely rotted out. The entire bulkhead had to be replaced.
Place bulkhead back where it belongs. Leave all as is. Clean up well and add a second layer of 3/4" plywood on the inside of the closet with plenty of glue and screws. Does not have to be a full sheet. Just a 12" section that follows the hull shape.Tab the new plywood skin to hull. Stain and varnish to match old bulkhead. After all its in a closet. J guidera. Www.hunter37.com
Get Rot is a terrible product don't waste your time or money. Why not cut patches after removing all the rotted wood. Make sure you get it all. then make a patch to go on from the deck to the floor epoxy it keeping most of the bulkheas in place. Another reason I HATE interior chain plates!!
Hear hear.. Thought about moving the main plates outboard where they should be but my jib tracks are way to far inboard. Get Rot is about the same as epoxy and filler. Figured (hell I've got it this far) might as well do it rite and replace the whole thing. Check out the next video.. Much happier with the way I did it. My girlfriend? Not so much, she want her door back;) Thanks for the comment and subscribing. czcams.com/video/LA2aoiYbzd0/video.html
Your upholstery person is the best. Colors are just perfect. I'm jealous!
Hi, you're doing a great job, half the battle is just deciding on an effective strategy without tearing apart the whole boat. I'm working on my Coronado 41, just got it indoors for the first time and that helps. Good luck, you're doing well.
Skipper Andy
good advice. Thanks.
I'm a kiwi boat builder, having built with these systems a lot.
To save a lot of work - those bulkheads where installed with the deck off! I suggest the following - Just replace the rot section 4" inboard of the hull from deck to sole.
If you can get to both sides of the bulkhead along the hull where it needs replacing, this is a easier way ok.
1st, remove all loose joinery including doors etc to get at it all.
2nd, with a hot melt glue gun take a pattern of the hull using core-flute board - disposable signs are made of it (pinch a few real estate signs!) so, with a craft knife cut, trim to fit the hull shape, use drawing pins to hold onto the bulkhead, as you go along, hot glue each piece you fit together ok, this will get you a perfect fit - not that you need to along the hull. Go from under deck to the cabin sole (where that 1/4 gap is). With this pattern go to step 3.
3. Take said pattern aloft and onto you new ply sheet, pin it to ply and mark the shape.
4. Jigsaw the shape to within a 1/8 inch or so, not important - see why later. Don't forget to mark - not cut, the under deck line and sole line, just saw past these lines a bit when cutting hull shape ok.
5, With a short stick or rule/tape measure, spoon, fork, say, at 4 inch long, scribe the hull shape inside that hull shape you just cut to end up with 4" stripe of new ply bulkhead & jigsaw cut, from sole to deck line.
6. Cut to this line, again just a bit past the deck/sole line. Now you can cut the deck & sole line.
You now have a ply panel the shape of your hull/deck & sole, 4 inch wide.
7. Take this on board inside the forward locker, place against bulkhead & to the hull, this is where it is good that this is not a tight cut ply, you need this to fit a little loose see, or you won't get it in ok.
8. With this ply (trimmed with jigsaw to fit a little loose) placed against the bulkhead, mark the existing bulkhead on the inner side of this new ply, the 4 inch marked and cut earlier. This will be the rotten bulkhead you jigsaw cut and remove. - give yourself wiggle room, doesn't need to be tight, 1/8 gap is good all around.
9. remove all traces of the old glass tabbing and ANY dirty, crappy glass, paint, oil, wax, 6 inches forward and aft of the bulkhead where ever it is to be re-glassed.
10. Have a shower & beer - very much deserved at this stage!
11. Fit new bulkhead into place, temp hold with small stripes of off-cut ply with dryline screws or similar, across the old to new ply join, I'd say 4 inch below the deck & above the sole and 2 equally spaced in between. This will hold it in place whilst tapping with new glass - see below for this glassing step. check that existing joinery is all ok with new ply and if you need to glue it to the existing joinery, if you do need to glue it to the existing joinery, do it now, and screw if needed (epoxy ok) it's good to check.
12. Now mix thickened epoxy resin (use their instructions on this) thick enough that it will not sag off your mixing "putty" knife ok, I'd use a 1 1/2" wide blade, fill the gaps all around the areas you will be glass tabbing, hull, deck(?) sole(?) AND the gap between the new and existing ply bulkhead. If you are working in hot weather then flatten out the thick chit ok, you don't want to be sanding anything in there. Don't worry about a mess with this if you can glass tab right after this filling ok, while the filler is still not set. With a short - say 6" long X 1-1/2" dia pvc tube or similar, fillet a cove in the hull/new ply corner (deck, where ever you glass tab ok) - this is so when you glass her up the glass will not have a long bubble there and also for structural reasons.
12a. Buying 12oz double bias to make for easy tabbing X by 6 layers each side (can never get enough - it's cheap enough) Now you can glass tab in between the temp timbers screwed on with drywall screws ok, use double bias 45,45 deg, just one layer say 3" wide and to go from 2" on the hull, over new ply and onto existing bulkhead 2" (that's 8") next to those temp timbers. When set, remove said temp timbers (ply what ever)
14. With damp (wetish) cloth remove the epoxy blush - this is a waxy type stuff, you will probably have read about this with your resin purchase. Follow it, I know it's not a male thing to do reading instructions, but do it anyway.
15. Cut your double bias glass to 4" wider than the repair which is 4' on the hull, 4" of new ply & 4" existing ply bulkhead = 12" x width of the glass you bought (54" wide or 36" wide off the roll?) so remember the weave is going 45 deg to your cut. Cut enough for the length of the hull (up-and-dicular) both sides - 6 layers. - layers will be 1" narrower as you lay up the glass, so 1st layer will be 12", next 10" next 8" etc. so, as you glass her up each layer will be 1" inside the one you just glassed in ok.
16. Mask off any areas not wanting glass OR spilt resin INCL your sole from companion way to past the bulkhead - I warn you lol!
17. Mix pint sized lots, this stuff goes off in bulk containers and is expensive, grab your brush and rollers (glassing roller) hop below with the resin and glass her up brudder!
18. IF you want to have a really clean finish, buy 2 yards of 'peel oly' this you can now apply over the finished glassing AND any wet resin areas you accidentally applied the stuff to, which if like me will be from head to toe.... now, easy, this isn't for applying to your legs head arms etc ok.... IMPORTANT - apply peel ply in 18" squares, so pre-cut it, it's like nylon, thin and plurry hard to roll on flat without wrinkles if in one big size. As you apply it just roll it flat each piece before the next and overlap an inch for good measure WITH A 1" X 4" DRY ROLLER short hair one is best. You can see through the stuff too, roll out those air bubbles you'll see too.
Amazing comment.. appreciate the experience, advice, thought and time spent. Its something Ill be filing to be reviewed anytime I do this kind of work.
+Sailing with SV Wild Hare hi, I built boats in the past as well, my experience is not all that but its enough to be able to say that tbe kiwi got it dead on! Nasty job but its worth it eyh. :) good luck
whereabouts are you building?
I live in Tennessee.
So I get the remove, replace and glass the crap out of part. But what I don't see mention of is the fact that the mast is off to one side presumably because it is pulling the bulkhead up off the cabin sole. Don't you need to get Settled back to their proper position before glassing it all down? How is that normally done?
I watched your video a couple of days ago and have thought about different ways I would repair the bulkhead. For once I have run out of ideas to help without dismantling your home, but I think you are on the right track.Keep us updated as we watch your progress. I don't know if you follow Have wind will travel but they we were in a similar situation with rot and Annie did a very good job of showing what it took to refit their sailboat. They got some very good advice along the way.
Take Care.
Muir
I do happen to watch that channel and we are supporters of each other's patreon page. Spoken with her a number different times about different situations we've come across including whether or not to continue doing CZcams a while back.
I think I've got the whole thing figured out, it's going to take a bit of time in a bit of work but it's going to look really nice and the boat going to be a hell of a lot stiffer. Thanks again for watching and for commenting. Glad you enjoyed the videos.
I watch Sail Life, Mas is really good with the camera and his voice is just over the top calming. I hated it when I first heard it, seemed somehow grating, but now it's somehow comforting, I believe he just might calm a hurricane with his voice alone.
Nice looking boat. I say R&R the bulkhead, remove and replace!
You should check out a channel called cruising the cut. It's a British guy on a narrow boat. I guess he was some type of a radio or TV personality before doing this. The whole videos are very calming
could have got that boat you show a pix of,she was in Panama about to sink..Glad I went with glass boat not wood...plus they wanted way to much for it...Be safe love sail life.
Yes it is in a hidden area cut out the rot clean all surfaces sister strips of plywood each side glue screw and tab with fiberglass both sides even if you install a new bulkhead that was done as said before it was installed before the deck was put in you will have to piece it together . you may have to work in small sections but it is doable . slow and steady
Sandwich it. Both sides.
Cut out the rotted wood, then go with 4" wide, about 2' long (or however long is needed to go a few inches past the rotted portions), 3/4" thick marine plywood radiused and tabbed to the hull. I would bolt through the banana-shaped bracing and the bulkhead on each side, just for good measure. You will have crated an epoxy or polyester or Vinalester 'U' channel of wood and FRP that 'grips' the bulkhead. It'll be stronger than factory.
You shouldn't have to worry about the line you're creating showing through to the outside, but if you're worried about it, add right angle triangle strips running the length of your additional tab pieces to spread the internal 'imprint.'
By the way, a guy I talked to, who seemed to know his business, said to never use epoxy on fiberglass polyester boat repair. Always polyester or Vinalester. Adheres better, he says, and incorporates "chaining", which, according to him, epoxy doesn't. And I gotta say, epoxy does have that slick, glossy surface when cured whereas my Jason 35 has on its polyester original build surface off the inside of the hull is a dull, matte finish. I'm still planning to look into his claims, but it seems right.
Good luck.
My opinion for what its worth......seems that bulkhead edge to hull is only rotten a inche or so, I agree with you....remove rotten areas and fill. I would then profile a piece of marine ply approx 12 to 16 inches and laminate to existing bulkhead. Threw bolt new section to old. Glass hull to new ply.
If it was me I'd go to a fiber-glass shop where they sell sheets already made up and get a piece 3/8 thick or more, cut to fit and glass it in. then it's part of the boat and won't rot! you can gel coat or paint or teak venire. A piece of teak that size would cost more than the glass. Up hear 5 gal. of resin cost about $140.00 you can build a lot with that much.
I have a sheet of 3/4 Meranti marina grade plywood on the way. 240 bucks with shipping but it will outlast me. slowly but surely making some big plans to redesign the entire thing. Stay tuned, this is going to get interesting.
Man i feel with you. Facing very similar problems on my boat since sailing in bad conditions through the gulf of biscay and english channel this year. Missing reinforcements on my lower shrouds lifted up my deck. Leakages weakened the reinforcements for the upper shrouds attached to my bulkhead and caused a vertical crack. My plan is to double the bulkhead wood instead of ripping the old one out and putting a new one. And of course relaminate the connection between hull and bulkhead(s)...This stuff makes you paranoid. :(
You have to love old boat..
How's it lookin these days? Seeing as how it was 6 years ago, I'm guessin you had a solution.
Love the captain Ron thumbnail! That's why I clicked.
I’ve actually had people complain about that thumbnail. Sold the boat almost 2 years ago, but it was in pretty damn good shape at that time.
I don't think things are as bad as you might think Chris. I checked the bottom of Circe's bulkhead and it doesn't reach the sole, it is about 1/4" up, so I don't think your bulkhead has lifted. Re the misalignment of the door trim, I think the iffy fit was pretty much the way it left the factory.....Islander cabinetry was often marginal, particularly the post 1980 boats. The rot seems to be localised so I suggest you dig out the worst of it, kill the rest with Git Rot and sister in a 2-3 inch wide reinforcement of 1/2" thick Hydrotek saturated with penetrating epoxy. You could then re-tab the whole edge of the bulkhead, over the reinforcement, with some wide tape like you discussed. Good luck.
I have friends across from me that are very experienced cruisers. We talked about it for quite awhile. The time it would take to repair it was far greater than replacing it.
New and way better wood is on its way and it will alow me to correct the large gaps and make a few cosmetic and structual changes. I was surprised to see that the bulkhead wasn't tabbed to the side of the cabin top or the sole.
Ah...... The thing DREAMS are made of : )
You know it..
I suppose this is the disadvantage to having chain plates inboard as opposed to directly to the hull... The deck space is nice but...
Best advice of the day, " if you have a leak on your boat boys and girls, fix it..."
Definitely have a lot more opportunity with Jane Playskool going through the deck but even outboard you could get leaks I guess. Absolutely essential to rebed and check for leaks frequently. There were many places on this boat that had been vetted with improper or cheap material or had never been done. Everything has been done at this point now it's just a matter of dealing with the damage from other owners.
SV Wild Hare absolutely. The thing with the chain plates attached out board to the hull the stresses on that bulkhead are compression stresses. Built as yours is they are tension stresses, that is it is trying to pull itself apart... In any case had the leaks been addressed it should've been quite sufficient. Just found this video by the way. Look forward to seeing how you address it as I'm am seriously considering shopping for a project live aboard as well... Cheers.
too bad about that water damage..Great looking boat.
thanks. extremely unique design for its age. It's just a piece of wood , I'll get it fixed and make it better than it was. Thanks for watching and commenting.
right on..
actually surprised how much I enjoyed the engineering aspect of taking it all apart and seeing how it was constructed. I'm definitely not a woodworker or Carpenter but I guess there's enough wood on this damn boat I'm going to have to figure it out sometime;)
Enjoying it is a big plus. Getting the right tools to do woodwork on boats is expensive.
I get to start this process on my Catalina 36 this afternoon!
It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be and I felt much better about the structural Integrity of the boat when I was finished. Plus I was able to make a few changes that improved things. Best of luck.
Wasn't nearly as difficult as I had envisioned. I have the bulkhead in my garage right now, need to apply the final finish and replace. Adding a plywood backer for the chain plate bolts too
Glad to hear it. One thing I've learned is that every time I take on an overwhelming project and accomplish it I'm that much more confident the next time I have to do something.
You might consider using HDPE which can be sistered to the bulkhead and then glassed into place. Start by cutting out all of the rot. Then make a pattern ( see how to do that on Tips from a Shipwright) that you will use to butt the new part to the hull. You can fill the void with whatever is easiest to use, then fit the HDPE. you will want to thru bolt it to the existing bulkhead s be sure to leave enough room for a strong bolt pattern. Finally fiberglass the bulkhead in place.
Good luck
thanks for the advice. I decided for structural stability and the fact that it holds the main chainplate to just replace the entire bulkhead. The next video in the series shows that if you care to watch.
One thing i've never understood in boat building (and in particular fiberglass shell boat building) is why there's absolutely no reinforcing on all those tie points. Basically Joe (at the factory) came in, drilled 5 holes, tied them in, then threw that brace through the deck. That's never going to work, the boat shifts, it bends, there's motion.
Personally, i'd raise the thing up by a few cm (to get it from the ground) with fiberglass in to the structure of the boat, so not just off the wooden deck, through it.That would prevent any water coming in, ever.
I would like to mention that it's a common practice on flat roof houses where there's a tie point with something beneath it, i really don't get why it's not "a thing" in boating, where it's thrice adamant to keep water away.
As for what i'd do? Well, i'd take the bulkhead (that side) off, route the whole rot out, re-edge it with solid wood bent to shape. Go to /channel/UClPa3pmqKwApysaYi7B7Nlg (channel name Tips from a Shipwright), he has a very easy way to steam bend wood in to shape, in situ, which for you would translate to a kettle and a long bag for the replacement strip.
That would give you a very solid panel, AND if you choose a rot resistant wood, even if you don't modify the deck, it won't ever rot again.
Bonus points, it won't cost you much of anything since the bulkhead remains in place largely.
Yep...we watch Sail Life ! -Rebecca
I would put the boat on the hard to see if loading the keel might close your gaps. Otherwise, I would grind (carefully) the rotten part of the bulkhead and grind prep the portion of the hull to be re-glassed / tabbed. After prepping and cleaning, I would precut chop stand with each layer getting bigger. I see no need to replace the bulkhead, I would neatly re-glass it using chop stand and polyester resin. It will be as solid as a rock. Yes, very nasty well living aboard.
Redesigned and replaced the whole thing. Ended up being a good decision. Thanks for watching.
To late for this comment to mean anything now but I would have laminated over the existing wood once cleaned away the rot with another plywood epoxied to the existing one from the damaged side, then tabbed the new plywood into the hull.
Still appreciate the comment and you watching. Made some changes and remove the door and I like the layout a lot better.
captain ron thumbnail brahs, theres guerillas in these woods...
I know right, so unusual for somebody to use a popular picture as a thumbnail.
Sand bags on top.
Ive got to do that same thing only much more
It wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be. I certainly would’ve done a few things differently the second time, but it turned out pretty well. Do you research on proper tapping, take your time, cutting out the new bulkhead, and I would recommend if you’re going to do any kind of sealant on the wood do it before you install it.
probably long sorted but looks like the bottom has kicked out towards the center !...i would cut out rot and put a piece of wood trim (substantial) down the section and re-glass!
ohhh and acro the bottom of the companionway to see if it shifts back towards the hull beam
I've had a lot of great comments and advice but as you suspected its already back in.
Always appreciate any ideas I can get.
have a beaver for rent, gnaws wood real fast in tight spots...
take it out complety, use as a template and replace stronger, your bolt patterns won't match.. drill new ones
Appreciate the comment but this project has been finished for years. Did pretty much exactly like you said.
Maybe it would have been better to leave you chain plate secure, and used them to help pull the buklhead back in place>
leaving the chain plates attached to what was left of the bulkhead wouldn't have done any good. The Edge where it was tabbed to the hull was completely rotted out. The entire bulkhead had to be replaced.
Place bulkhead back where it belongs.
Leave all as is. Clean up well and add a second layer of 3/4" plywood on the inside of the closet with plenty of glue and screws. Does not have to be a full sheet. Just a 12" section that follows the hull shape.Tab the new plywood skin to hull. Stain and varnish to match old bulkhead. After all its in a closet.
J guidera. Www.hunter37.com
Get Rot is a terrible product don't waste your time or money. Why not cut patches after removing all the rotted wood. Make sure you get it all. then make a patch to go on from the deck to the floor epoxy it keeping most of the bulkheas in place. Another reason I HATE interior chain plates!!
Hear hear.. Thought about moving the main plates outboard where they should be but my jib tracks are way to far inboard. Get Rot is about the same as epoxy and filler. Figured (hell I've got it this far) might as well do it rite and replace the whole thing. Check out the next video.. Much happier with the way I did it. My girlfriend? Not so much, she want her door back;)
Thanks for the comment and subscribing.
czcams.com/video/LA2aoiYbzd0/video.html
I hope I'm not too late...Get Rot is a horrible product...put new bulkhead if necessary but dont use that crap!
Nope. replace the whole thing with a new one..
Next video in the series shows the replaced bulkhead.
good advice. Thanks.