3018 PRO - Tuning GRBL settings
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- In this video we save 40% off our cutting time but runing through various tests to helping improve your GRBL settings.
Grahams tutorial and all the files used can be found here
1drv.ms/u/s!Au...
Link to the Sainsmart 3018PRO
shrsl.com/2i8nz
Here is the link to the new spindle
amzn.to/2E7BPO6
I have recently set up a Patreon page to help keep making tutorials and keep my CZcams channel moving forward.
/ jamesdeandesigns
If you want to help but do not want to become a Patreon, you con contribute directly:
www.paypal.me/...
Never Commented on a video before but after getting my 3018 last week and hearing about these videos several times I have spent the day watching the first few. I am finding them to be extremely useful and just had to say thank you for all the time and effort you have put into helping those of us who have no idea what we are doing understand our machines and the software used. You Sir have been an enormous help and I greatly appreciate everything you have done.
Really appreciate you taking the time to say that. Good luck with the machine 👍
I just got a 3018 and these videos are great for getting me started in the CNC world. Thank again.
Thank you so much! Another great tutorial I, what a difference it has made to my 3018 fully turbocharged now.
Excellent. I had to pull my setting back a little more after making this video but still much faster than out of the box
I can see you've changed max spindle speed from 1k rpm to 20k rpm during the tuning. This is exactly what I was looking for. My 3018 came with spindle rpm capped at 1k rpm, even though the manual says it is 10k max. Also, notice. Be careful with acceleration settings. At the start of cutting the bit suffers an impact, and if it is too rough it will break. This is why all of the industrial cnc machines have PID control on all of the axis. The faster the tool goes, the faster it needs to be stopped, the lesser the impact.
Great video, thank you!
Thanks. Also ramping improves your bit life. You dont really get it on free software but most quality paid for software has it for that exact reason you mention, to avoid your bits breaking
You sir, are a true star, saved me a lot of time. I bought this as a practice for the 1.5m cnc i'm building and wanted to try out GRBL.
Glad it helped 👍
This was a really good tutorial. I built the 3018 woodpecker nearly three years ago. But I lost interest after completing the build and got more into 3D printing. I am finding your videos massively useful thanks for sharing.
From my personal view. I'm glad it was so cheap and came without limit switches. I've added 3 switches and hope to use soft limits. So now to set it all up and fine tune it. I've had mine 3 weeks now and not really cut anything. But I've learned loads from people like you. Thanks James. Jim
Glad the videos have helped 👍
Yes thanks James. 3 weeks ago it was all voodo magic. Now I think I've got some sort of idea.
Limit switches are working although default speed was too fast and broke one off. ( a bit of glue will fix that) now busy checking travel calibrations. I'd have been in a mess without your help.
Jim
Update to above: Wasn't too fast. The connector on motherboard for Z axis had come out. All good now.. Soft limits set as well.
That was a great guide, very easy to understand and all the warnings, thanks. One issue is that when you add weight, the steppers won’t be able to achieve the same acceleration, this will also happen if you increase the resistance. So, when you cut you add resistance, when you add a large piece of wood to the table, the y axis now has a larger weight to accelerate and won’t be able to achieve the maximum acceleration values anymore. Probably best to do all your tests with a large workpiece on the bed. Cut speed will be controlled by the cutting parameters but when you’re cutting a pocket and, for example you come out of a corner and accelerate up to the cutting speed, for a short time there is cutting resistance added to the reactive force of speeding up the weight of the spindle or the workpiece and bed. The acceleration won’t be able to achieve the maximum anymore. I suggest at most half the maximum acceleration value you found in the test. I would also check for ringing and overshoot if you’re running at higher speeds and higher acceleration, the belts and structure may not be as good at rapid transitions you could get some overshoot or ringing at corners and start/stop points.
Thanks for the feedback. That's great info and I agree for the most part with what you have wrote. One of the reasons I do the traverse test is because it puts extra strain on the motor, similar to placing a piece of wood on it. In reality you would never traverse like that at those speeds during cutting so it puts extra pressure to get you closer to your realistic settings. Cutting acceleration tests are really difficult unless you're always using the same materials and bits. For example something like oak is going to be harder than MDF. The main purpose of my video is to help people understand those settings and give the confidence to adjust them and hopefully it does, but as I say, that is great info you have added.
James Dean Designs : You did a great job at presenting the method, this video and your others, if you’re trying to demystify the various aspects, you’ve achieved that in this video and your others. What I appreciate is that you’re using the humble 3018 and getting good results from it, too many reviewers are quick to dismiss it.
@@klave8511 there was a point I questioned if I made the right choice of machine and wanted to get rid of it, but what I realised was my mistake was buying from a cheap ebay store. Everything was just off by a fraction so nothing ran as well as it should of. Spent hours just tweaking every bolt on all the axis 🙈
I set my machine up out of the box as your instructions. All seemed fine but a few days later the motors started stalling. I did the calibration tests again and they were way off from how I originally set them.
All seemed ok but I wasn’t getting the depth of cut that I would like until I realised that the Z axis carriage was bottoming out because my test piece of MDF was only 8mm thick. I dropped my bit down a touch in the collet and ‘hey presto’, a perfect cut!
I’m now going to make a spoil board for my machine. Thanks again James.
We all hit issues. I ended up having to lower my acceleration down as well from my video. My machine didn't like the colder temperatures over December and January
@@JamesDeanDesigns Doing another trial design and it’s still not right in the ‘Y’ axis. It’s jumped up 2mm on one of the letters I was cutting.😡
@@ianknight2053 how deep are your passes?
@@JamesDeanDesigns Very shallow James. I actually set the tip of the V bit a little too high, so it only just scratched the surface of the wood.
I made some small alterations to the GRBL settings and it cut fine the second time around.
Thanks James. I've had the issue that the X and Y axis would stall on any movement over 100mm and the seller had me change acceleration to a much lower value but this only helped if the spindle was moving no more than 3/4 of full travel and once I saw that your maximum travel speed was 1600 I knew what the real issue was. By default the maximum travel speed of my unit was set to 5000, this is much faster than it is capable of doing. I stopped your video right then and there and tested it, SUCCESS!
Clicked Subscribe, and on with the rest of the video.
That's good to hear. Unfortunately some of the sellers don't really know much about these machines and cant provide much support but glad your moving forward
Thank you so much. These adjustments made a major improvement on the first sign we made.
Glad it helped
Thank you for this! Just entered the world of CNC and got a 3018 for Christmas, my first test cut (my name) was estimated at 30minutes and had me feeling very disheartened. Now that I made these adjustments its down to 5min! Had no idea the settings were set so low! You sir, just gained a subscriber!!
Excellent news. Thank you for subscribing :)
James, I think a lot of us think that we can just unbox a CNC machine and start creating. I know I got excited when my 3018 Prover arrived. But I would highly recommend that everyone takes the steps that you've outlined here in tuning their settings. It will make a tremendous difference in the outcome of your projects. Great instructional video. Also watched your Making A Spoilboard video which was great as well.
Thanks for the kind words. These settings really do help as long as you don't push them too far :)
I watch your video. I learn my things. Thank you much for making these videos.
James you legend! I was trying to do this 4 hours ago, then remembered the guide in your tips and tricks. Thanks for making this video. Major help!
Thanks 👍
Truly appreciate these videos. I am just learning and having the ability to watch/listen to you while I make these adjustments is a huge time saver!
مع تاخري عن مواكبتك في تلك السنوات الا انني شاكرا لك استذ جيمس .. وددت ان تدخل الدولار 30(سرعة المغزل) مع السرعة القصوى والتسارع للحصول على نسبة(... : ... : ... ) تخرج افضل نتيجة للمواد المختلفة المستعملة للcnc pro 3018 ولك التقدير
Thanks for making this video. Massive change from the stock 10mm/sec acceleration that my CNC was set to. Excited to try it out in practice soon!
Glad it helped 😁
Really instructive, dude, I'm going to bed late, but it was worthy. Blessings from Saint Kitts and Nevis
Glad it helped 👍
Top tip: at 29.00 in your inset picture I noticed that your spindle and z-axis cables are attached on the far right (looking from the front). By giving a little more slack and fixing the cable at the mid x-axis you will put less strain on the cable and the motor/carriage and avoid any "tugging" on the x-axis. When done correctly this enables a smaller cable loop size each side of the centre rather than being stretched all the way to the left and a large cable loop to the right. Hope that helps!
Thank you. Thats useful advice 👍
Needed to tune my homemade cnc machine, to speed the x and y travels up, Your tutorial was very concise. Although I knew where these settings resided, I liked the way you explained it and the “de-tune” to ensure reliability and no missed steps.
I wish there was a local group in the midlands to get together with others and swap ideas
CZcams is great to learn stuff and get ideas, but face to face with others is sometimes more mentally stimulating
Well done.
Glad it helped. Let's see what the rest of the year brings but I'm always up for a meet up. They have them in other cities. Assuming it goes ahead this year, I'll also be at Makers Central as well, either on my own or as part of the Woodworking UK team so thats always an option.
@@JamesDeanDesigns makers central?, what’s that?
@@conkcat happens every year at the NEC. 2 days of makers getting together. Woodworkers, black smiths, jewellery makers, CNC people. Top tool companies exhibit there like Triton, Record Tools etc. I help run the biggest woodworking group in the UK, we usually have a stand there but I dont think we are this year. Just attending socially
Perfect Tutorial, You fixed my 3018Pro Router, Great job I understand it now! Thank you
JAMES YOU ARE A F**KING HERO! It's like a new machine, such an improvement. Thanks for all the top notch content!
Thank you 😆 glad its helped
Hello again been getting into your videos and practising with a 3018. On my controller the spindle drive is PWM. You can tell a PWM drive when you bring the speed down to 10% or lower and you will hear a singing sound from the motor. If you were to clamp the motor with your hand it would maintain torque. With a DC control, the motor will stall at that value. I would recommend that if you were to get a new controller make sure the Spindle Drive has PWM output. Solving the jamming issue. I lubricate the rails with chain and bar oil, while I am setting it up.
One thing to keep in mind is that the top speeds only affect rapid movements. When you are cutting material, you usually have to go slower depending on material, bit, cutting depth and such.
That is correct. I think I reference it in the video thats where all the time is gained 👍
Hi
Thank you for this video, which I was looking for for a while to learn how to adjust the acceleration
Because I was setting high numbers and the axle got stuck, and I could not understand how to adjust the acceleration until after watching this video of yours.
All greetings and respect to you
Glad it was useful :)
That was great James. It all made sense and the results were fantastic. Thank you. Jim
Really informative, thank you. Appreciate the step-by-step walk through.
Thanks for the great video. If you have tight spots in the travel, it is worth looking at the alignment of the parts. The rods and lead screws need to be parallel to each other. Probably less of an issue on these newer 3018 pro models. I have an old 3018 where it takes some fiddling to get it running smoothly. Also, I found on mine that the Y axis the table needed to have shims between it and the lead nut and bearings to get it to not bind some. The table wasn't exactly flat, and it would get tight right in the middle of its travel. I also had to get them to replace the spindle carriage because the Z axis lead screw and/or nut wasn't manufactured correctly. It wasn't just tight, it would bind up and seize at one point in the travel.
It certainly is worth checking alignments. I cover it in another video but its a really common issue and a few minutes aligning everything can make a big difference.
Travel calibration done, speed & accel calibration next. Thanks again!
Glad it helped
James fantastic tutorial although just a small note that when calibrating the Y axis the bed needs to have on it whatever full load work piece that will be worked on, especially when using the 30 40 upgrade kit.
Very true 👍
Great video and information! Thanks for sharing this with us, very helpful stuff!
I've finished designing my enclosure for my 3018, planning to share with you my plans and how effective it ends up being at soundproofing once everything is done incase you think your subscribers would be interested. (I'm hoping it will be quiet enough to run in an apartment if needed but time will tell)
can you share your plans
Fantastic video. I like how you go in-depth
Fab super helpful thank you, more tuning videos and optimal tool path deflection etc etc would be interesting
This was incredibly helpful - exactly what I was looking for. Subscribed. Thank you James!
Glad it helped
Thanks James! Those setting adjustments really stepped up my 4040xe, not boring at all now, homing sucked.
Glad they helped :)
Thanks James. I deleted my comment just as you replied I think. I just copied the GCode that popped up in the video into a text doc and it worked great.
FINALLY! My X-Axis is not jamming anymore... Thank You and take my Subscribe
Glad to hear that 👍
Just tuned up my machine using all your setting. Its like a different machine now. All settings seemed to work good using your test and logo. However about 3/4 through my first carve I started losing steps on the Y-axis. Guess I'll have to slow them down a bit more. Great video though!!!
One thing I didn't mention in the video (and really should have) is the settings do typically have to come down a little but more when the machine is under load but glad it helped 👍
Thanks
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Nice work again, James! Your audio is a little bit low on this one but I always enjoy your videos!
Thanks for the feedback 👍 I recorded two separate audio tracks, I think the other one was louder but seemed to have picked up more background noise so I used this one but maybe should have pumped it up a bit
Excellent video! Can you post the final parameter on a text file?! So, we can have a base and tuning from there. Thanks a lot.
Thank you so much. I seldom click like or subscribe, however you and your channel deserve it! Thank you again.
Wow! Thank you very much. Really appreciated 👍
I'm just getting in to this stuff now, but I've found your tutorials to be extremely helpful. This is another great video - I'm going to do this tune-up for sure to shave some time off. I suppose there are two types of "sticky spots" - one that would cause a stepper to skip while it's already moving (indicating the velocity is set too high) and the other that could cause it to "jam" when starting from a dead stop (indicating that the acceleration is set too high). Knowing which situation you have would tell you which value you need to tweak (or both if you have both problems), yes?
Brilliant researched advice once again.
As soon as the rain stops I will be making my way to the man shed and making these adjustments.
#shouldhavebuilttheshedcloser
lots of help, really appreciate the work
Love your vids; fairly new to CNC'ing, and you've been a great help in getting going.
Can I send you a lavalier mic, so you're a touch clearer in your presentation in your shop?
Thank you. As my videos go on, the audio does start to get better as I invested in more equipment and learned better editing skills. Generally speaking any videos from the past 12 months are certainly better as I switched to a decent wireless lavalier mic. Still somethings I probably need to learn though 😊
Made a 11 minute difference on my rig. stock 3018
Excellent!
Thanks James.
I use 60% for the y-axis because the weight of the material you're cutting changes
Nice, thanks a lot
Brilliant, once again!!
Thank you
James I omitted the new spoil board size; 300x360 mm
thanks. it was really easy to understand and follow.
Glad it helped 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns is there a setting to change the spindle direction without changing the wires as i cant seem to pull mine off, and spindle is going counterclockwise.
@@jw5955 not to my knowledge. There is usually a little red dot somewhere near the side that should have the red wire.
@@jw5955 you could try changing the wires at the other end where it connects to the control board but not sure how easy you will find that
after doing this on mine, just got it assembled. i went from 4:55 to 3:23
Hello James. All of your videos are awesome. Just a quick one. I had 3018 Pro. Try to cut a circle. But, by Y, it was smashed. And cut Oval. Can you please instruct me on how can I change settings to be perfect circle.
Thanks
Aleksey Romanov
If its cutting a perfect oval then chances are your steps need calibrating. Check this video
czcams.com/video/nGwUf8uNWBU/video.html
If your oval is not perfect and things don't align then if may be missing steps. Easy way to test this is slow the feed down and see if it helps the situation
Cool! Will definetly do this with my machine.
I have some concerns, though.
1. Will these top speeds and accelerations breached under the load, while cutting, or this is purely to move in the air betweendig-in points?
2. In the case of Y axis, did the 80% rule show to be sufficient for you? I mean, there might be quite heavy piece of wood on the table that also needs to be moved. Will it manage?
Awesome!
Really helpful, can't wait to adjust my settings.
What grbl software are you using? It looks better than the basic Candle grbl that came with my Sainsmart router.
Never mind, just found your video where you talk about using ugs
thank you very much , i found the solution , $3=3
thank you very much for this video, what is the best grbl settings for pcb printing? with cnc 3018 pro
The calibration programs:
Copy everything in between the lines, so the program starts with a % and ends with a %.
Paste into notepad and "save as", change the "save as type" drop menu to "all files" and save the files as "X.NC", "Y.NC", "Z.NC" and XYZ.NC (without the " ")
---------------------
%
(X AXIS 50mm)
G90
G21
G0 X50.
X0.
X50.
X0.
%
---------------------
%
(Y AXIS 50mm)
G90
G21
G0 Y50.
Y0.
Y50.
Y0.
%
---------------------
%
(Z AXIS 30mm)
(SET THE SPINDLE)
(PRETTY LOW AS IT WILL MOVE)
(UP AND THEN BACK DOWN AGAIN)
G90
G21
G0 Z30.
Z0.
Z30.
Z0.
%
---------------------
%
(X Y AND Z AT THE SAME TIME)
G90
G21
G0 X50. Y50. Z30.
X0. Y0. Z0.
X50. Y50. Z30.
X0. Y0. Z0.
%
---------------------
James, You are my big source of information about CNC and Grbl.
did you spend time on "User Commands" in Candle? (Extras buttons I think) but how to use?
Thank you. User commands are just custom buttons that you can program. So for example when I use a Z probe I usually set it from about 20mm in diagonally, so I could create a custom button to always move it in 20mm every time.
hey, ithink my cnc is broken cause it went up to 30000 and then i gave up trying to find the peak because it was taking to long. I was wondering if there was a setting or safety on the board or something stopping it from making improvements past a certain figure. I have a 1419 cnc from aliexpress
ما هي نسبةالمناسبة للسرعة القصوى ونسبةالتسارع ونسبة سرعة المغزل المناسبة لأحسن نتيجة للMDF ولباقي المواد المختلفة كالبلاستك مثلا .. .وشكرا
maybe I'm stubborn but: why screw everything up?
be patient and let the machine do its job,
is that wrong? or Weird if I say so?
Regards Rob
I wouldn't say stubborn, I'd just say you're thinking about it in the wrong way. You are believing that the factory settings are the best for the machine but thats not technically true, they are simply very safe settings to make the manufacturers life easier. Yes sticking with the default settings is safe, but there are lots of scenarios where higher speeds and faster acceleration will actually get you better results. For example when using a laser or machining acrylic. If you drive a car, yes you could travel everywhere at 10mph, and that would be perfectly fine but if the road and your vehicle allows for faster speed then why not travel at 15 or 20mph and shorten the journey time. Its not about pushing your machine to the limit, its a case of finding the limit (which is much higher) and then staying with a safe zone
Tl;dr thanks for making this video
No problem!
Hi James, thank you very much for these guide videos. You say in the video that you are talking about the $30 (spindle top speed rpm) parameter. By default it is 1000, but 3018 Pro Vevor has 10000rpm stock spindle. Should I set this parameter to 10000? Or does that default value have a multiplier of 10? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Usually if you are doing laser then set it to 1000 but if you are doing routering then set it to 10000
Greetings to you from warm Uzbekistan! Absolutely like you for your work! I would like to ask you:
If I make acceleration settings like in your video, that is, I achieve the result that there will be a maximum acceleration without slippage
Will there be any problems with the machine? That is, I will make a control program in the program (aspire) and output it to the machine through a candle, I will not have any problems when milling? Acceleration settings will not affect the distance
I will be grateful for your answer! Yours sincerely, Evgeniy!
Hello James, first I would like to thank you for making these videos. I have a 3018Prover running UGS. When I try and increase the speed nothing happens.
Tried refreshing and $$ as well
It's stuck on the old settings.
Anything I could do to improve performance. Had this machine for over a year and it still hasn't worked from day one.
Thinking of maybe putting a new motherboard in to see if this would cure the problems.
Im in my mid seventies and I would like to see it carve something before the big box comes calling.
Cheers Bill M-)
Haddington
Thank You
Thank you!
Thank you for helpful video. My machine same as your, . You put $30= 20000 rpm for spindle, what value should pass for 15w laser?
When I tried Tuning the $120 setting even to 10K and running the X 50mm Test code The Motor NEVER Jams or shows ANY sign of Struggle In the Test gcode I was worried about actually Running the motor that high for a test cut so I set the $120 to 2000 And Again it passed the X 50 mm Test code, But Jams On the X axis Immediately when trying to Run a Very simple Bore Op. Every thing Works Default But $120 Is the only Problematic Setting When Altered. Any Ideas of why I'm Getting this behavior with my 3018 Pro Max?
By default My Out of the Box Settings Were:
$0 = 10 (Step pulse time, microseconds)
$1 = 25 (Step idle delay, milliseconds)
$2 = 0 (Step pulse invert, mask)
$3 = 2 (Step direction invert, mask)
$4 = 0 (Invert step enable pin, boolean)
$5 = 0 (Invert limit pins, boolean)
$6 = 0 (Invert probe pin, boolean)
$10 = 1 (Status report options, mask)
$11 = 0.010 (Junction deviation, millimeters)
$12 = 0.002 (Arc tolerance, millimeters)
$13 = 0 (Report in inches, boolean)
$20 = 0 (Soft limits enable, boolean)
$21 = 0 (Hard limits enable, boolean)
$22 = 0 (Homing cycle enable, boolean)
$23 = 0 (Homing direction invert, mask)
$24 = 25.000 (Homing locate feed rate, mm/min)
$25 = 500.000 (Homing search seek rate, mm/min)
$26 = 250 (Homing switch debounce delay, milliseconds)
$27 = 1.000 (Homing switch pull-off distance, millimeters)
$30 = 1000 (Maximum spindle speed, RPM)
$31 = 0 (Minimum spindle speed, RPM)
$32 = 0 (Laser-mode enable, boolean)
$100 = 800.000 (X-axis travel resolution, step/mm)
$101 = 800.000 (Y-axis travel resolution, step/mm)
$102 = 800.000 (Z-axis travel resolution, step/mm)
$110 = 1000.000 (X-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$111 = 1000.000 (Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$112 = 1000.000 (Z-axis maximum rate, mm/min)
$120 = 30.000 (X-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$121 = 30.000 (Y-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$122 = 30.000 (Z-axis acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$130 = 200.000 (X-axis maximum travel, millimeters)
$131 = 200.000 (Y-axis maximum travel, millimeters)
$132 = 200.000 (Z-axis maximum travel, millimeters)
Great video James, but how do i permanently adjust the settings using Aspire 10.5 with remote control panel? on 3018 pro
Aspire is just your CAD/CAM software, these settings are done in your control software and once they have been set, you shouldn't need to change them again
Nice video James. I must say though I cringe a little whenever you abbreviate millimeter by saying “mil”. In manufacturing vernacular a mil is 1 thousandth of an inch, not a millimeter. I don’t mean to nit-pick but in educational videos such as yours, I imagine fundamental details like being accurate with your units of measure is crucial to producing quality content. Cheers!
Thanks. I have to be honest, my father is an engineer and part owns an engineering company, I also used to work there. Ive never heard of mil meaning a thousandth of an inch. However, I agree it is a bad abbreviation as it more commonly means million not millimeter. I am trying to get out of the habit of saying it 👍
Hi Dean That's interesting can you please show the command for that test ? thanks
At about 2:15 you mention the first thing to do is open UGS. Where do I get UGS? Do I need to download somewhere? Your videos are great by the way!
UGS is the program I use to control the CNC machine. I talk about it on some of my earlier videos about getting started. Quite easy to use. You can do this video with other similar software though like Candle
Brilliant new sub👍
James, I used this great video when I got my ProVer 3018 and it made a tremendous difference for my machine. Can the same basic concepts be used on the ProVer 4030 XL? Or do you have a different video? I searched but did not find one..
Principles are the same so yes you can. Just be careful with the 4030XL as they advise not to mess with the settings too much so make sure you take a copy before you start.
Been trying to follow this guide for a bit with my 3018 Pro from VEVOR. I cant get the first section to work like it does in the video. I have got the accel up to 10k without it making any kinda noise, skip or jam. To replicate the results I have to up the feed rate, ended up getting to around 3k feed and 2.5k accel before jamming and not sure if I should go to the max speed first then pull the accel based on that or what?
what x,y axis motors are you using ? i want topgrade as myine wont go over 1000 where yours go 1600. thats a big improvement in speed .
Perhaps there is something built-in that is limiting the settings? I stepped the 120 and the 121 all the way to 10000 for each, and neither one has jammed yet. This felt excessive based on the video, so I thought I'd check in before pushing it further and risking damage. This is my first system, and I haven't done a cut with it yet, as I want to ensure it is properly calibrated before moving on to the actual cuts.
I'm sure higher performance is better, but this doesn't feel right. Any thoughts on what the best course of action is?
There will be a maximum rate they will not go beyond but that will vary between different steppers. You'll probably find it's around 3000 or 4000. But it's great you've got it so high without any issues
I cannot change the spindle speed.
Let’s get stuck in
Hey james i have a 3018 like you have in the other video.I mainly use it for pcb making.the machine is working very well to mill the pcb.Once im at the drilling part the hole never line up with the one on the design.I am using eagle flatcam and candle.You have any idea what could be causing this?
Im not really familiar with doing PCBs but usually if something doesnt align it possibly means steps are being missed. Alternatively check the calibration of your axis as accurately as you can. So tell it to move something like 150mm and measure how far it actually moves
Hey James I love these tutorial videos. I was wondering if you have any tips for setting up limit stops and using them to set a home position in the 3018 Pro.
Unfortunately I don't. I've never used limit switches. Probably the one area of these machines I can't advise on 😕
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for the response James. Looking forward to see your 4030 review. Always preferred to have the head move and not the stock bed.
Look up Techydiy. He Also has some tutorials on this machine and he goes over setting hard limits and soft limits. I think it is the second one in his series.
@@GranjersGarage his videos are good 👍
Thanks for the info, although my spindle wouldn't spin any faster than 1000rpm, anything above that slowed it down, strange
That is odd. I dont think I have heard of that before
@@JamesDeanDesigns my only thought is, it is maybe turning faster, but the decrease in sound makes it sound slower?... who knows. Having fun learning regardless
@james dean designs, do you have a link to the test files you used to set the machine up, I can’t find a link below.
Many thanks
You need to expand the description area below the video and there will be a link to any files used int he video
Hi James. I have a 3018 Pro from Vevor. When I have to carving or use a laser, the size is halved on all measurements. When I put 10 cm x 10 cm on the subject, and use a laser of the same size, only 5x5 cm is burned. Do you know what the cause could be? Have tried Candle, Universal-G-Code-Sender and Laser_grbl.
I see James has a cut depth set to 11mm. How do you change that setting to go deeper of less deep?
Can you do a video on making the bed for your 3018 pro? I am concerned about using mdf as it is so prone to warping and changing shape.
Great video. Have my machine running pretty good, BUT. Mine does not give the $30 setting for the spindle speed any idea how I can get it? I assume it would be a firmware thing which if that's the case then it's gonna stay how it is as I am too new to the cnc router cnc. Lol
Hi James! thanks for these tips, they are very helpful as always. I want to make a spoilboard. yours and Graham's look great. How do you attach the board to the to the aluminum table?
Blue tape and CA glue 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks so much James!
Hello James, thank you for sharing this video, it helped tremendously.
Do the cut settings from Easel get over written by these settings? This part confuses me.
No, Easel (or any other software) just controls the feed rate for when its actually cutting but these settings are mainly about the free travel speeds which your software doesn't change
@@JamesDeanDesigns ah, that is what I thought but was doubting myself - Thank you James.
Hi my son just got the same cnc he put it together with no problem . Did a move ment test with the little hand controller. He downloaded from the flash drive. Now he is stuck
How and where do you set the size of the wood.please help he got it for christmas and he has been trying to get it to work everyday
Check out something like my beginners guide to easel. its shows you how to create job and set the work size
icant make perfect circle i chaned step drivers changed microsteps changed bed entirly.but still not solved. please help.
Hey James, excellent video as usual. One question, does this process need to be repeated in every program that sends g code? i.e. Candle or Fusion 360?
No. Your GRBL settings remain in the memory of the control board. So even if you changed computer they all remain the same. Just take a backup of them once you've done it all to be safe
@@JamesDeanDesigns Dang, that was fast! Thanks a bunch.
What can i be doing in my design to throw off my z probe zero. I created my cut path and when transferring it to candle. ill do my zeroing with probe and/or manual. Then hit send and the z axis starts run about .5" above work surface. Im using carveco. Iv jumped to easel and im not having this problem. So i imported my project from carveco to easel and i have the problem again. Where am i making the error in carveco.