How to Install LED Lights in Honda Ridgeline Trunk
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- I installed these lights about three years ago and even though the lights available at the time were kinda sketchy, they are still working great.
This is a really easy project, but give yourself several hours of time to do the job properly. - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for the info, bob. Unfortunately there are differences between your truck and my 22 RL. I ended up pulling two wires through a different hole than the one you mention and went through the grommet that you show on the video right by the spare tire. I spliced the wires to the positive and negative that feed the right side bed light. I had originally wired the led lights like u suggested but in my truck there is no ground where u said you grounded the negative wire. After troubleshooting I figured I just had to pull another wire in order to make it work. Anyway thanks for guiding me in the right direction.
Sorry to hear you had to do some extra work for the ground. No way around it it's a bit of work, but well worth it for the results.
I like the video, but I used a led light switch that's self adhesive. It takes 4 AA batteries and lasts for months. It's mounted by the latch system so it's easy to find in the dark. Yours has a much more esthetic appearance.
Initially I used battery powered motion sensing lights, but the batteries in mine didn't last very long so I decided to go with wired LEDs.
I love this idea. I tried today to install the lights but can’t get the wire fished from the trunk to the hole you show. How did you fish it through?
@natebooth1748 I am so sorry for just now replying, somehow I missed your comment until now. I'm sure you have already figured it out, but in case you haven't It's been years since I installed the lights and I don't recall exactly how I fished it up to the cargo light, but I usually use a really long zip-tie or coat hanger to fish wires on vehicles so I'd recommend trying either of those.
I am thinking about doing this to my ridgeline but wondered if you could show how you made the connection to the cargo light wires and gauge wire you used.
I really wish there was a way to post photos in CZcams comments. LED lights are very energy efficient and don't require much current, I'd estimate that the wire leading to the stock bed light is probably only 20 or 22AWG. Any wire between 22 and 18AWG would work fine, I think I used 20AWG. There are two wires in the stock wire harness leading to the bed LED light and inside the harness is a ground wire and a 12v+ wire that powers the bed light. My memory is that the blue wire is the 12v+, but don't take my word for that, test is with a meter or temporary connect your new LED lights to make sure you have the polarity correct. I don't really trust wire taps, so I striped a bit of insulation off the OEM wire and wrapped and soldered my new wire to the OEM wire and then covered the connection in plenty of electric tape. If you want to use a wire tap instead, use a Posi-Tap, the block style wire taps are awful.
@@Koolbob2 thank you for the feedback I appreciate it!
Time for new tires? I am thinking about Michelin CrossClimate2's.
I've been spending some time on Tirerack.com comparing tires and I've narrowed it down to Michelin CrossClimate2, Michelin Primacy tour A/S, Pirelli Scorpion AS Plus 3 or Continental Crosscontact LX25. I had Continentals on a previous Audi and they were great tires, but didn't last as long as I had hoped. I really like Michelins, but the Defenders I purchased as replacement tires on my previous Ridgeline started losing chunks of tread on the outer most edge of the treads. Michelin had a recall for this, but my local dealer looked at my Defenders and thought they didn't justify replacement or a partial refund. I've got about 5/32 of tread and don't drive a lot, so I can wait a few more months before getting new tires.
Where did you buy that light because it looks really good?
Thanks, I've had the lights in the truck now for about 5 years and they still work perfectly. I don't see the exact brand I bought, but these look the same. www.amazon.com/Daytime-Running-Waterproof-Universal-Lighting/dp/B087Q4KG95/ref=sr_1_2?crid=33D8JY6X2V9S&keywords=WEPECULIOR+2pcs+17cm+LED+Car+Auto+Driving+DRL+Daytime+Running+Lights+Lamp+COB+84+Chip+Pure+White+Waterproof+Bar+Strip+DC+12V&qid=1706620269&sprefix=wepeculior+2pcs+17cm+led+car+auto+driving+drl+daytime+running+lights+lamp+cob+84+chip+pure+white+waterproof+bar+strip+dc+12v%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-2
In today's light technology.
You don't need to run wire to the host battery.
I have a rechargeable led light bar with a motion sensor that lasts for a few months. It has a charge indicator so you're not left stranded.
Initially I installed battery powered LED strips with motion sensors, but the batteries weren’t lasting nearly as long as I had hoped. Perhaps the newer ones will work better for you.
@@Koolbob2
If you buy a cheap one they won't last long.
I bought 2pk from Amazon for 50 dollars. I left one in the bathroom and one in my Ridgeline trunk.
I hardly ever check the trunk but my bathroom gets constant use
I charge the bathroom light once every two months.
That tells me the one in the trunk should last 6 months. That's what the box says.
Where did you buy the lights ?
I bought the lights from Amazon, they looked really flimsy but are still working perfectly after several years. Amazon doesn't have the ones I bought anymore, but any LED light would work fine. Get something thin so it take up much space and is not likely to hit anything stored in the trunk. These look very similar to the ones I used. www.amazon.com/Daytime-Running-Waterproof-Universal-Lighting/dp/B087Q4KG95/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=1MQ7RHPJEZR5O&keywords=Linkstyle%2BDaytime%2BRunning%2BLight%2C&qid=1668782338&sprefix=linkstyle%2Bdaytime%2Brunning%2Blight%2C%2B%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Couldn't you access the cable thru the tale light then to the cargo light?
I had the same thought, but the metal structure behind the taillight blocks access to the Honda cargo light wire loom. Going in from behind the fender liner, where Honda ran all the other wires, also minimizes the new wire's exposure to the elements.
Where did you purchased those light bars from?
@@Koolbob2 could you share a view of the connection to the cargo light wire and gauge wire you used?
@@joebrooks3882 Sorry for the late reply, I just now noticed your question. It's been a few years since I added the lights and they are still working perfectly. My memory is that I used pretty thin wire since the LEDs don't need very much current. I'd recommend buying your lights and using something a bit thicker than the wires on the LED lights just to be on the safe side, 22 or 20 gauge would be more than enough. I pushed a needle through the insulation on the factory light wires and used a multi meter to figure out which factory LED wire got 12v+ current when the cargo lights were switched on. There are two wires in the stock wire harness leading to the bed LED light and inside the harness is a ground wire and a 12v+ wire that powers the bed light. My memory is that the blue wire is the 12v+, but don't take my word for that, test is with a meter or temporary connect your new LED lights to make sure you have the polarity correct. I don't really trust wire taps, so I striped a bit of insulation off the OEM wire and wrapped and soldered my new wire to the OEM wire and then covered the connection in plenty of electric tape. If you want to use a wire tap instead, use a Posi-Tap, the block style wire taps are awful.