Clutch Switch Repair
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- ** Additional note: Make sure the clutch pedal bracket is tight to the firewall, cross member, or whatever framework it attaches to. My bracket was wobbly--which also gave me starting issues. **
Having trouble starting your car or truck? If you have a manual transmission, your clutch switch might be acting up. Why buy new if you can fix it? In an emergency, you could just short the two wires together. (Of course, still press in the clutch pedal before turning the key.)
In this video, I disassemble, clean up, nearly break, fix, and reinstall my clutch switch. My particular vehicle is a 2000 Toyota Tacoma.
The clutch switch is also called:
Starter Safety Device (Toyota owner's manual)
Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch (AutoZone)
Clutch Pedal Position Switch (Napa)
Clutch Starter Safety Switch (Napa)
Clutch Switch (O'Reilly)
my switch was ok the problem was the bracket it mounted to was bent a little and required me to press the pedal firmly against the floor, harder than usual, so I had to bend the bracket a little forward. I still cleaned the switch as shown to keep it clean.
5 years later the gift that keeps on giving. Thank you I needed this
Thank you. This was very helpful. First off, seeing the internal construction before disassembly helps with the initial disassembly, and also, your glitch with the metal tang will help me (and probably many other viewers) avoid that problem. It looks like the trick is to be careful when reassembling, to make sure the plunger is engaged past the tangs before you snap the pieces back together.
My clutch pedal bracket was bending when I tried to take nut off. Put a flat breaker bar against it to loosen nut. Very difficult to take Clutch Position Switch apart and broke part of the casing. I cleaned off the grease made the contact pins tighter, it snapped back together and adjusted the clutch pedal. Voila! It starts every time and the clutch is better. You saved me 35 bucks, so I'll pray for you. Many blessings!
I am happy for your success. Thank you for the nice feedback.
Thanks for posting this video. After watching this video I was able to diagnose that my Yaris starting problem was that clutch switch. BUT, when I tried to undo the nut holding it onto the bracket, the nut is so tight I did not want to bust the bracket, so, I sprayed a mass of WD-40 into the switch, hoping that will clean off the gunk from the plunger, and keep it working better than before, when I had to play with the clutch a bit to get it to work. Seems to work well now, after the WD-40 spray job.
Thank you for including the segment about engaging the switch while enclosing it in its case!
You're welcome. I should have noticed the closing difficulty when I was jamming the tab up inside the barrel. Oh, well. I hope you're up and running!
The hardest part is separating the two halfs of the switch. Mine was contaminated with dried grease. I'd recommend cleaning the barrel and points first with alcohol and then lightly sanding in the direction the plunger will be moving, using very fine wet/dry paper. I didn't mess with the tension on the contact arms. Works fine for now. Thanks for the upload
Good job, Michael! Perhaps a good spritz of electrical contact cleaner is all that's really required. I like to take stuff apart. It's kinda goofy that we're spending $100 of effort on a $20 part. On occasion, I go about things in the hardest way possible. I'm thinking of moving all of my videos to Rumble due to CZcams's censorship of COVID vaccine harm, censorship of 9/11 truth, etc. Anyway, thanks for the nice feedback.
Very cool, I know what you mean by getting a "low-level rush" :) Fixed this problem today on my Subaru without the rebuild. Measured impedance 100 ohm from the dirty switch. Squirted WD40 into every possible crevice of the switch housing. Now down to 2 ohms. Works great so far.
Nice work, Markus! You must have had some trouble starting your car to land on this video. I hope you also checked that all the brackets are tight. In my case, a loose bolt was making it hard for the pedal to engage the switch.
MIL GRACIAS!
MUY ILUSTRATIVO VIDEO Y MÁS POR LA REPARACIÓN DEL CONTACTOR QUE SE DOBLO. EXCELENTE!!!!!
Smart fix on the clutch safety switch. I'll try it on a Corolla I'm working on. Simple, effective and well done instruction. Thanks.
Thanks, Matt. Make sure the brackets aren't wobbling around. A wobbly bracket will keep the pedal from engaging with the clutch switch like it should.
Thanks for posting this. I can clearly see everything you demonstrated.
Thanks for the sound effects... sounds like the adapter enjoyed that rub down very much:)
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That "gunk" you wiped off may have been dielectric grease, which you want to have.
Excellent video with very good explanation on how to do the job. Was exact same problem on my 2008 Tacoma. The issue was exactly like in your video, 'gunk' on the plunger and metal tabs. We 'weekend mechanics' really appreciate a clear explanation and video to make a repair. You saved me buying new parts or ever worse, taking it to the dealer to solve. THANKS!!!
Glad to help. Thanks for the nice feedback.
Dude you are a lifesaver!! I was having no crank no start and this was so easy. Thank you 🙏
Glad to help. Thanks for the nice feedback! Good job to you for getting after it.
Just started having this problem nice to see a repair video.
so helpful and humble you are. thanks for posting!!! i actually have to fix mine today. great save too.
Thank you for this video! It helped me with my exact issue with my 99 Tacoma. It was very clearly explained and had a clear video as well.
Sweet! Good job getting after it yourself. Thanks for the nice feedback.
Thanks Bro! I was about to tackle this blind so seeing it from start to finish (including some gotcha's to avoid) was incredibly helpful! Much appreciated!
You're welcome. Glad to help. While messing around up in there, make sure your bracket bolts are tight. I had a loose one. In a pinch, you could just short out the clutch switch wires. Good luck!
Thanks so much! Super helpful saved me a big hassle. Appreciate your great attitude and helpfulness.
You're very welcome. Thank you for the nice feedback. CZcams videos have helped me tremendously, so I try to give back to the community. I'm a big fan of factory service manuals.
THANK YOUUUUUUU!!!! My friend just had problems on the road and With your help We can now fix it quickly. I mean without jamming the one prong like you did. That was also helpful because it is also good in knowing what NOT to do, LOL.
Fist up, Fight for Truth.
Nice... Glad to help. In an emergency, you could bypass the switch by shorting the wires together. The downside is that the starter would turn even if you did not press in the clutch--which is probably really bad for the starter.
The last time I replaced mine, I contorted myself under the dash to get it back in. The mirror method looks a lot smarter.
Nice video! I really enjoyed seeing how the switch works internally!
Ideally after cleaning there should be some lubricant added to help prevent contact corrosion, minimize wear, and reduce friction. Unfortunately I do not know which type of lubricant is appropriate. I think this is more of a short term fix rather than a long term fix. The long term fix is replacing the $25 switch. The video was great though.
Thanks, Lane.
Good video, there was little SIGN of wear on the two side spring contacts, so why change them; however exactly duplicating the angle of the bent contact point with the undamaged one would help assure longevity. There's a relatively huge amount of conductive surface for these switching parts, and the current they pass is small. IF kept clean and a low-dielectric light grease is used, the switch should outlast the engine, body and about every other part on the car.
On mine the only part of the barrel that didn't have surface corrosion was free of lubricant. I don't know what I'd recommend as a replacement for the lubricant they used.
Thanks for the tip. I have the same problem on my Yaris. I'll follow your guidance.
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This is a very informative video. Thanks ColoradoDemings. I have a 2007 Tacoma 5-speed and a 1994 V6 Regular Cab 5-Speed. The same problem started just yesterday with the '07. Before retrieving and disassembling the part though, I blasted some contact cleaner I had sitting around into it. There is a little hole at the end of the white plastic stem that I shot into. I also held the stem onto the wall with a small flathead screwdriver and shot around the outer edge to get inside the unit. So far so good with 100% starts. Maybe it will do the trick. If not, the upshot is that I know where the part is now and how it works, so I have a roadmap if I have to go further. Hopefully it saves a little time for someone. I'm digging the Mustang ('85 or '86?) in the garage too. I had an '88 LX 5.0. Oh boy did I do a lot donuts in that car.
John, thanks for the nice feedback. I hope you ensured your mounting bracket is not flopping around. That may have been my problem all along. It did not occur to me to try contact cleaner. My first response is usually to take stuff apart and go from there. The Mustang is a 1990 with a shade over 300,000 miles. I have a photo from 1999 with the speedometer needle at 125mph. No comment on location or who was driving. Now I autocross my 2013 Miata.
@@ColoradoDemings LOL. I had an '82 GT that I got up into the 120's a few times in coastal Delaware. I'm just glad I survived my youth.
"Oh yeah, clean me, clean me!" Hahahahaha
Thank you soo very much for taking the time to post this.. Saved the day. !!
Glad to help. Thanks for the nice feedback.
thanks for the info! I wan't able to totally remove my switch (Hyundai Accent) without having to replace a plastic clip, but I backed off the nut behind the mount so the switch is more exposed, then tightened it back down. Seems to be working.
I knew it wasn't a total failure from the start, because a slight rightward push on the pedal would start the car every time. Maybe the switch just got loose over the 100K+ miles.
Cool--good job getting after it. Maybe yours would benefit from a spray of contact cleaner up in there (assuming you could get the little straw sprayer in the right place and keep it from blasting back in your face).
Nice job on the recording, very helpful. I could totally see myself doing the same thing you show at 6:25 :-). Thanks for saving me from making the same mistake.
Thanks, man. Many CZcams videos have helped me with auto repairs, so it feels good to be helpful in return.
So, I just did the repair today on my '95 T100 -- getting the cover off proved to be more of a challenge than I thought -- I ended up partially breaking the front tab, but was able to use electrical tape to repair. Total repair time was about 30 mins thanks to your video.
Thanks for the video, fellow coloradian here
Worked beautifully! Thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for the nice feedback.
great video.i'm hoping it might solve my no crank on my 98 honda civic.i got good power but nothing happens when i turn the key.i had a brake light switch similar to this that went out(prolly gunked up like this video)not to mention the plastic grommets on the pedal side that break easily...anyways this was very informative as to how these parts work.thnx for the upload.
Thanks, man. I hope you get it figured out. Might be a dead starter. They can go from working to dead without warning.
Thank you buddy you just save me $40 buck I knew what was the problem but I didnt know you can clean it and bam bam thank you ma'am thank you sir
You are welcome. Thank you for the nice comment.
Are these the same as a clutch control switch? Thanks
I had the same problem with my Toyota Camry. I ordered a new switch but I will take apart the bad switch and see if I can use it again as a back up.
great video, very thoroughly explained
add some character or something unique, i think you could do well on youtube my friend
Awesome! I'll try this.
I wonder if it will work if I just spray a little contact cleaner in there and twist the white button without taking it apart. I do that with the pots on my guitar amplifiers, which is the recommended procedure.
never know until you try,that's what I was thinking too
I replaced my switch. Same problem. Then put a paperclip in there, same problem. Then cleaned the connections to the starter, Bingo, been starting ever since. Hope that helps someone!
I have a 2010 Mazda 3 i touring. I have a check engine light; it goes on and off automatically if I drive around 50-100 miles. My car starts perfectly and all the gears work (manual transmission) but I get a spring squeezing sound whenever I press the clutch. Is that going to be a problem If I leave it as it is?
On a 1984 the switch is at the very top of the paddle assembly & impossible to get too. You didn't show taking it out or installing it I may have to take the seat out & I may not be able to get to it then ?
thankyou very much your a life saver..
My 2013 tacoma clutch sometimes does not return when pushing all way down to start. Have to lift by hand . What can be sticking ?
It worked... thanks for the video.
If u have a bad switch does it make the car shift slow or no?
Nice job!
Great video
Great video! Thank you.
Thanks for the help
You're welcome! I once sketched an idea for a flexible pencil holder--sorta rubbery with a groove in the middle was the idea. When I was done, I had drawn a human butt. Art will mess with you like that...
Hey man you could do youtube seriously. Most install videos are weird and awkward but you got a thing for this i wasnt weirded out at all
Thanks, man. I hope you got your clutch troubles worked out.
Can I eliminate that switch by connecting wires directly?
guitar player?
I have a starting problem with my 97 Dodge not getting any spark to the coil change the coil changed distributor distributor plate wires cleanes all the grounds I also have an issue with pushing the clutch pedal down I'm wondering would this affect the spark to the coil if you had a faulty clutch position sensor it turns over but doesn't fire but sometimes when you press the clutch in you got nothing could this be the issue of no spark? Your help would be appreciate it thank you
The clutch switch has nothing to do with spark. It just tells the starter that it's okay to start cranking. You can bypass the clutch switch as shown at 6:50 in this guy's video: czcams.com/video/gTVBmabA7oI/video.html As for lack of spark--sorry, don't know. I would search "no spark diagnosis" on CZcams. Good luck!
Nice video
G e n i u s ! 🤘🇬🇧
Lot off thanks man
From Georgia Tbilisi.
4:45 you're moaning like if you...lol
I had a new clutch put in and it started a couple times but died and turns over but won’t start any thoughts
See my man Eric--> czcams.com/video/FBUYs539cy4/video.html
This guy is funny lol
Why didn't you just buy a new switch?
I changed my clutch interlock switch. now the starter won't turn over or nothing do you know why that would be
Could be loose bolts holding the clutch pedal bracket. If the bracket is loose, the pedal won't fully engage the switch. If the bolts are tight, I would try putting a rubber band around the switch or jumping the connection with a paperclip. That will force the switch to the "closed" position. If it then cranks, the problem is in the pedal/switch area. If it still doesn't crank, I would see if the battery cables are clamped on tight. Check out EricTheCarGuy's video "No Crank, No Start." Good luck!
It could be a bad electrical connection. Try jumping the connector. Your car should start whether you depress the clutch pedal or not.
Could this be the reason the cruise doesn't engage?
OMG a new switch is $19.99, time is money!
The nearest auto parts store is 1/2-hour away. I got the interesting life experience of resurrecting a $19.99 part (twice, if you include fixing it again after I bent one of the tabs). I get a low-level rush from having 44,712 views on this video as of right now. People spend thousands of dollars and hours on college for dubious benefit. Taking apart a clutch switch and making a video about it was time well spent for me.
Lol so creepy
I heard you were dead...
czcams.com/video/IbOUavJ-fU8/video.html
Really helpful video though man, thanks for making the video. You're awkward, but you own it. I'm just awkward lol
Your visuals of the switch are terrible!!!!
Worthless info.
so helpful and humble you are. thanks for posting!!! i actually have to fix mine today. great save too.
thankyou very much your a life saver..
so helpful and humble you are. thanks for posting!!! i actually have to fix mine today. great save too.
so helpful and humble you are. thanks for posting!!! i actually have to fix mine today. great save too.
so helpful and humble you are. thanks for posting!!! i actually have to fix mine today. great save too.
thankyou very much your a life saver..