Brilliant Rob! Circlip off, move clutch arm one spline along so near to 90 degree angle, centre the adjuster half way down its length...and now many months of clutch adjustment frustration sorted in minutes!! Love these helpful hints and tips. cheers
completely agree about circlips deforming, I've had quite a few of same size not retract to the original size plus i had a pair of pliers exactly like yours and snapped a tip off them
That series1 is beautiful! Mate....I've had my DL for about 15 years and had NO CLUE you could just use a spanner to pull the clutch arm like that! You sir are a saint!
We bought two imported li 150s a few months back and ha e carried out several bits of maintenance while I’m patiently waiting for the Dvla to register them and had to do this after we had the chaincase off to adjust the kickstart ramp and it makes a big difference having the lever at 90 degrees, so much easier to pull the lever 😀👍
@@adrianobonaldo8941 hi yes the 2 Li150s were imported to the U.K. some years ago but were not registered so we did that ourselves we also bought a 125 special from Italy and imported that and have also registered it ourselves
Not connected to anything. It's an MB breather that solves spitting from using modern gearbox oil. I'll do a quick video on those as I get asked this a lot!
Point to correct in your video. The small lead coupon needs to go on top of the cab,e before the grub locking screw. The reason for this is to protect the cable from the grub screw cutting into it as you ‘wind’ down the screw to tighten it otherwise you will sever some of the wires and have problems next time you adjust or remove the trunions.
If I had a fiver for everyone who said that I would be rich. 😂 It actually depends on the trunnions. Some, like these, are drilled too deep and if you fit the disk on the top it destroys the cable because it is pressed in the recess. I only use oiltek now because of this.
@@kickbackgarage we all have our own opinion on what’s right and what’s not but mine is based on fifty years or engineering experience and like you I use these trunions but I would still recommend the ‘slug’ on top of the h cable to protect it. You pays your money…….
@@kickbackgarage its the original one. It has no play in it. Ive tried so many times that ive even stripped the gearbox and rebuilt it again. It had no problem. And if I disconnect the cables can engage 4th. Just wondering if like the clutch there was a particular angle of degree?
Ahh, if you can't rock the scooter in 4th, then it could be either the cables are to tight, or you have fit the cables to the wrong trunnion. I.e. Back to front.
@@kickbackgarage the cables and trunnuinon are all correct. Ive tried with it wound all the way in so not tight then slowly adjusted them. Its driving me crazy. Like I said it will engage 4th if I disconnect the cables. On your video is the lambretta in neutral? If it is i will try and angle the selector the same as you have.
The paint was stripped by some bloke in the 80`s and it sat on a pallet until I bought it a couple of years ago. The red parts are original paint still. Ohh, and I think its cool.
Can anyone answer why my GP is unable to freewheel backwards when the clutch is engaged? The clutch seems to work as normal otherwise when pulling away.
@@kickbackgarage Thanks for your reply. The clutch does seem to work. As I said, the rear wheel is locking only when trying to 'reverse' with the clutch in and in gear but no issue going forward. Other than that the scooter pulls away and changes gear without issue . Can you elaborate as to what the problem may be and how to possibly resolve it? Much appreciated.
Nice, clear explanation with step by step video guide. Better than 100 books! Thankyou Rob.
Thanks Mike, I appreciate the nice comments.
Spot on ! Clutch now feeling better than it has in ages
Brilliant Rob!
Circlip off, move clutch arm one spline along so near to 90 degree angle, centre the adjuster half way down its length...and now many months of clutch adjustment frustration sorted in minutes!! Love these helpful hints and tips. cheers
Great news. Glad I can do something useful 😎
Getting the controls working properly makes a huge diference to the ridding experience.
Another good video Rob , it never hurts to revisit the basics
Another great one Rob! And perfectly timed with my engine rebuild! Thanks for all the effort!!
Thanks, and you're welcome 😎
Brilliant video, just done my adjustment ,many thanks.
Nice vid Rob, great, simple explanation of adjustment & setting up of bite point 👌👍🏼
Top explanation Rob, I'm coming to the end of my build and tis is what I was looking for
Brilliant! Thankyou from Derbyshire!
completely agree about circlips deforming, I've had quite a few of same size not retract to the original size plus i had a pair of pliers exactly like yours and snapped a tip off them
That series1 is beautiful! Mate....I've had my DL for about 15 years and had NO CLUE you could just use a spanner to pull the clutch arm like that! You sir are a saint!
Thanks for the nice words 😎
Nice one I am newi to Lambretta you make it easy to understand thanks
We bought two imported li 150s a few months back and ha e carried out several bits of maintenance while I’m patiently waiting for the Dvla to register them and had to do this after we had the chaincase off to adjust the kickstart ramp and it makes a big difference having the lever at 90 degrees, so much easier to pull the lever 😀👍
Did you bought from uk? I am looking too for a 125 special Li Serie
@@adrianobonaldo8941 hi yes the 2 Li150s were imported to the U.K. some years ago but were not registered so we did that ourselves we also bought a 125 special from Italy and imported that and have also registered it ourselves
Best scoot channel in the cosmos!.
Thank you! 😎
Thanks mate briliant Vid
Subscribed! Takes me back, going back on the road on a Lammy soon and very much appreciate the refresher, good man.
Welcome to the party Alan and good man. The more scooters we can get back on the road, the better 😎
@@kickbackgarage Couldn't agree more, keep up the good work!
Just to let you know it was a success mine was badly adjusted. Thanks 👍
Glad to help John. 😎
Top job
Great help I'm off to adjust mine now I'll let you know if it's a success
Thanks for this this will help I’m one of your dummy worshippers keep em coming 😊😊
Brilliant cheers
Brilliant tutorial. Could you test the clutch whilst she's on axle stands? Just a thought. 🤔
No, you need resistance.
Re my experience of problems selecting fifth gear and making a new tie bar. Do you know the hole spacing on a standard tie bar?
I must agree about circlip quality or rather lack of of it. Some of the ones I bought are made from low grade cheese.
The stainless circlips are made from chrome plasticene! Complete waste of time. Now i use old ones because the modern metallurgy is rubbish!.
Oh and I've had "non springy" spring clips too
Hi Rob,is the clutch arm that you adjusted the same for a series 3 150 special engine
It's the same for all lambretta s1, 2,3 og dl/gp
Cheers Rob thanks for the info,great video x
magari una pinzetta più funzionale .ciao , molto bravo .
on your crankcase breather you have a pipe......what is this connected to??
Not connected to anything. It's an MB breather that solves spitting from using modern gearbox oil. I'll do a quick video on those as I get asked this a lot!
@@kickbackgarage Thanks.............I've learn't something today at least :)
Point to correct in your video. The small lead coupon needs to go on top of the cab,e before the grub locking screw. The reason for this is to protect the cable from the grub screw cutting into it as you ‘wind’ down the screw to tighten it otherwise you will sever some of the wires and have problems next time you adjust or remove the trunions.
If I had a fiver for everyone who said that I would be rich. 😂 It actually depends on the trunnions. Some, like these, are drilled too deep and if you fit the disk on the top it destroys the cable because it is pressed in the recess. I only use oiltek now because of this.
@@kickbackgarage we all have our own opinion on what’s right and what’s not but mine is based on fifty years or engineering experience and like you I use these trunions but I would still recommend the ‘slug’ on top of the h cable to protect it. You pays your money…….
I think you have a reading problem.
What spec is the engine? Need a scoot that sounds like that.
I've got an rt195
This scoot has an RT230 reed.
Could you do a video on the gear selector? Every adjustment I make i still cant get 4th gear.
Is it a new gear swivel?
@@kickbackgarage its the original one. It has no play in it. Ive tried so many times that ive even stripped the gearbox and rebuilt it again. It had no problem. And if I disconnect the cables can engage 4th. Just wondering if like the clutch there was a particular angle of degree?
Ahh, if you can't rock the scooter in 4th, then it could be either the cables are to tight, or you have fit the cables to the wrong trunnion. I.e. Back to front.
@@kickbackgarage the cables and trunnuinon are all correct. Ive tried with it wound all the way in so not tight then slowly adjusted them. Its driving me crazy. Like I said it will engage 4th if I disconnect the cables. On your video is the lambretta in neutral? If it is i will try and angle the selector the same as you have.
Yes. I fit the cables when it's in neutral.
great video but is there a reason you have odd shoes on?
It's my motorbike boot. It's because I don't like the kickstart digging in my ankle if my foot slips off the kickstart.
What’s the score regarding the bare panels?
The paint was stripped by some bloke in the 80`s and it sat on a pallet until I bought it a couple of years ago. The red parts are original paint still. Ohh, and I think its cool.
@@kickbackgarage I think it’s also super cool mate.
Can anyone answer why my GP is unable to freewheel backwards when the clutch is engaged? The clutch seems to work as normal otherwise when pulling away.
Your clutch isn't working.
@@kickbackgarage Thanks for your reply.
The clutch does seem to work.
As I said, the rear wheel is locking only when trying to 'reverse' with the clutch in and in gear but no issue going forward. Other than that the scooter pulls away and changes gear without issue . Can you elaborate as to what the problem may be and how to possibly resolve it?
Much appreciated.
Ps. Its time to get an ld150. And put a kit on it:)
That exhaust is blowing a bit.
Nope, it's a curly so the end can is facing forward 😊
You can see it better here czcams.com/video/TbE0mapAmlI/video.html
That pipe is far to loud Rob Don’t think it suits a classic scoot like yours
That pipe isn't on that scooter anymore, and it's also been sold.