Nice work. I did one in Finchampstead the other week, thought I’d once again try and rule bonding off with my Darby, but it’s just too sticky, went straight back to the speed skim like you did. I never scratch it up though, sometimes I’ll run the flat brush over it or a sponge
Do you ever apply the finish directly after develling-up before it starts to brown .... If not - Try it .... The finish is brilliant! ... No bubbling as the bottom and top coats pull in at the same time .... 🤠
Absolute tripe. Does bonding absorb water, yes, but if the tiler seals it, tiles it properly, grouts it properly and it’s all siliconed properly, then there’s no issue. Most bathroom refurbs aren’t back to brick or block to even apply render on. You’re often going over paint, tile adhesive or board, sand and cement is very much redundant internally nowadays
If you are plastering onto new block work or all the plaster has been removed in an old bathroom then sand and cement with a water proof additive is ideal. Bonding is only used when patching and making good.👍
@@ianturner8459I’ve never seen a plasterer sand and cement a bathroom besides a couple of times on CZcams. It’s always bonding or hardwall, bonding more because it can go on multiple surfaces, which is what you deal with on jobs like bathrooms
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot you should never use a Gypsum plaster in any wet areas because of the risk of water damage which will over time degrade the material. Moisture resistant plasterboard is ok but only for tiling and should not be skimmed. In the video he is making good existing plastered walls which In this case is the best option unless you can strip the wall back to brick and start again.
@@ianturner8459 so how are the ceilings going to be done then if no gypsum plasters are used? No multi finish is what you’re saying which is a crock of shit. Any material going pretty much will degrade with water ingress, do you also suggest no skirting boards or doors in bathrooms? I know full well what he’s doing as I do it day in day out. He did it the only way possible bar starting from scratch, which 9 times out of 10 isn’t a feasible option. I’d love to know what your house is made of, no gypsum plaster anywhere where there’s a risk of water ingress, which is basically the entire house, if you think about the pipes that are run all over it.
Hardwall is used for walls with high suction. Ie: if you splash some water on the wall and the water dribbles down, I’d recommend bonding coat. If the splashed water is absorbed into the blocks, then you can use hard wall.
Nice work. I did one in Finchampstead the other week, thought I’d once again try and rule bonding off with my Darby, but it’s just too sticky, went straight back to the speed skim like you did. I never scratch it up though, sometimes I’ll run the flat brush over it or a sponge
Do you ever apply the finish directly after develling-up before it starts to brown .... If not - Try it .... The finish is brilliant! ... No bubbling as the bottom and top coats pull in at the same time .... 🤠
What bonding agent did you use on the back grounds + Cheers for giving the meterage coverage for 25kg bag, diy'ers love this stuff
P.S. what tape did U use to keep the pic rail clean, Thanks
I've been told by a plasterer to never use bonding in bathrooms always use sand &cement
Absolute tripe. Does bonding absorb water, yes, but if the tiler seals it, tiles it properly, grouts it properly and it’s all siliconed properly, then there’s no issue. Most bathroom refurbs aren’t back to brick or block to even apply render on. You’re often going over paint, tile adhesive or board, sand and cement is very much redundant internally nowadays
If you are plastering onto new block work or all the plaster has been removed in an old bathroom then sand and cement with a water proof additive is ideal. Bonding is only used when patching and making good.👍
@@ianturner8459I’ve never seen a plasterer sand and cement a bathroom besides a couple of times on CZcams. It’s always bonding or hardwall, bonding more because it can go on multiple surfaces, which is what you deal with on jobs like bathrooms
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot you should never use a Gypsum plaster in any wet areas because of the risk of water damage which will over time degrade the material. Moisture resistant plasterboard is ok but only for tiling and should not be skimmed. In the video he is making good existing plastered walls which In this case is the best option unless you can strip the wall back to brick and start again.
@@ianturner8459 so how are the ceilings going to be done then if no gypsum plasters are used? No multi finish is what you’re saying which is a crock of shit. Any material going pretty much will degrade with water ingress, do you also suggest no skirting boards or doors in bathrooms? I know full well what he’s doing as I do it day in day out. He did it the only way possible bar starting from scratch, which 9 times out of 10 isn’t a feasible option. I’d love to know what your house is made of, no gypsum plaster anywhere where there’s a risk of water ingress, which is basically the entire house, if you think about the pipes that are run all over it.
Can you tile straight onto this ?
I’d use a strong primer first but technically yes you could.
Could I use Hardwall instead of Bonding as an undercoat plaster ?
Hardwall is used for walls with high suction. Ie: if you splash some water on the wall and the water dribbles down, I’d recommend bonding coat. If the splashed water is absorbed into the blocks, then you can use hard wall.
Thank you 👍
Why not use hard wall then you don’t have to waist all the time priming the walls
Why are you working on your knees.
Get yourself a proper mix kid