Great video, bike shop wanted about $250 labor to change out my BB/Crank, James clearly got me through doing it myself, and I got some new tools I can always use in the future. Well done, great video, and I love your easy, slow style where I can clearly understand what you are doing! I am officially a FAN, thanks.
The only thing I noticed was the washers. On the non drive side there was a wave washer that you took off. Did you put that on in addition to the regular washers? The wave provides the slight bearing preload needed since the arm doesn’t ever go in that far as it binds on the splines first.
Hi James. I haven’t had much luck with FSA bottom brackets so far. I have wrecked 3 on my mountain bike but possibly due to severe mud and water getting in but just checked my Giant Toughroad with only 1000 miles from new and the bearings were completely dry with no grease visible at all when removing the bearing covers. This bike hasn’t had any mud abuse. Unfortunately FSA use special bearings that are almost impossible to get so you cannot just replace the bearings, just the whole BB. I have found on my bikes that although the crankset is 3 piece, the NDS crank is superglued on and the DS comes off easily. Don’t know if that is just my bike or the norm for FSA? I have had much better success with Shimano BBs but they make it very difficult to swap an FSA to a Shimano BB because or a few thou difference in shaft thickness. I have done it on my MTB but had to force the crank spindle in and possibly shortened the life of the bearings. All good so far though. Great video James.
Thanks Tony, good to hear from you, hope you’re well buddy. I think you’re right, as the FSA BB needs swapping mostly every year and since I’ve mostly ridden the Topper in the winter I’m not actually riding that many miles. So I suspect I probably get 1000 miles tops out of the FSA BB, due to Wet Rides. As you say, bearings are a funny size and probably cheap shite. I am thinking of GRX Crankset so might be able to get a decent BB, but will see. Started riding the Topper this year as to Summer Gravel riding, lucky to find a couple of routes which had some nice gravel parts, makes it worth while. Might get some more miles out of the Topper😊 Not forgotten, wanted to pop down for a ride, but with fuel costs and it costing me a bomb for work, stayed local. Cheers for comment and take care😊👍
While trying to undo the none drive side put Allen key in anti clockwise but arm did not come off and damaged the crank bolt so it is tight so I tighten back up thats a while ago but now iv got play in the BB so any tips to remove the crank arm just orderd new crank bolt the try again great vidio tho.
I’ve heard of lots of people having issues getting the crank off, even in using a long pole on the end of the wrench to give you leverage. I would try your local bike shop if it’s not playing ball. Without seeing it it’s hard to establish the problem. Hope you get it sorted and thanks for dropping by😊👍
Hi James, I just wanted to know if you had an FSA Omega with the 6 pins on the non-drive side. I've tried a 10mm Allen key and either it's worn, the thread inside has worn but either way it's not budging an inch. There's a six pin key available for about £80 online. Getting of this w*nk crank is costing me a fortune.
I’ve heard they can be a bitch to budge so I’d try to lengthen the Allen key so you can get a better leverage which will help. Send me an image of your crank, I’m sure it’s just an Allen key. Can email me, email is in my about section of my YT.
I’m not sure on the size. I use a standard BB tool, if smaller then you usually get an adapter with the BB which you don’t with the FSA BB4000. If looking for a socket, always make sure it’s got 16 notches. Sorry I couldn’t be more precise.
Great video, bike shop wanted about $250 labor to change out my BB/Crank, James clearly got me through doing it myself, and I got some new tools I can always use in the future. Well done, great video, and I love your easy, slow style where I can clearly understand what you are doing! I am officially a FAN, thanks.
Thanks Walter, the main reason I started the channel. Always felt videos didn’t give enough info when showing. Grateful I could help😊👍
Thanks for this, James. I am changing the rings on Wendy’s Omega, tomorrow, so now I’ll look like I know what I’m doing 😎
Glad to have helped Roy😊👍
Really enjoyed that mate. Very interesting 👌
Too kind aside, cheers😊👍
Always a nice feeling having a new BB 👌
Looking forward to ride tomorrow👌 Cheers LC😊👍
@@JamesSocialCycling enjoy chap, Ive only done 1 ride this month at the very start, just can't be arsed at the mo 🙈
Very helpful,thanks
Glad I could help😊👍
Nice job!
Have I mentioned, I really love that Topstone... 😁
Wait for the next video, gravel ride today nothing but the Topper😊👍
@@JamesSocialCycling Oh that sounds good, this channel needs more Topper action! 😉😆
@@micks61 I’m saying no more😎👍
What size is the tool for taking the bb out? Is it standard?
The only thing I noticed was the washers. On the non drive side there was a wave washer that you took off. Did you put that on in addition to the regular washers? The wave provides the slight bearing preload needed since the arm doesn’t ever go in that far as it binds on the splines first.
Yes, it went back on, as forgot to film it, but did mention it at the end of the vid. Cheers😊👍
Hi James. I haven’t had much luck with FSA bottom brackets so far. I have wrecked 3 on my mountain bike but possibly due to severe mud and water getting in but just checked my Giant Toughroad with only 1000 miles from new and the bearings were completely dry with no grease visible at all when removing the bearing covers. This bike hasn’t had any mud abuse. Unfortunately FSA use special bearings that are almost impossible to get so you cannot just replace the bearings, just the whole BB. I have found on my bikes that although the crankset is 3 piece, the NDS crank is superglued on and the DS comes off easily. Don’t know if that is just my bike or the norm for FSA?
I have had much better success with Shimano BBs but they make it very difficult to swap an FSA to a Shimano BB because or a few thou difference in shaft thickness. I have done it on my MTB but had to force the crank spindle in and possibly shortened the life of the bearings. All good so far though. Great video James.
Thanks Tony, good to hear from you, hope you’re well buddy. I think you’re right, as the FSA BB needs swapping mostly every year and since I’ve mostly ridden the Topper in the winter I’m not actually riding that many miles. So I suspect I probably get 1000 miles tops out of the FSA BB, due to Wet Rides. As you say, bearings are a funny size and probably cheap shite. I am thinking of GRX Crankset so might be able to get a decent BB, but will see. Started riding the Topper this year as to Summer Gravel riding, lucky to find a couple of routes which had some nice gravel parts, makes it worth while. Might get some more miles out of the Topper😊 Not forgotten, wanted to pop down for a ride, but with fuel costs and it costing me a bomb for work, stayed local. Cheers for comment and take care😊👍
While trying to undo the none drive side put Allen key in anti clockwise but arm did not come off and damaged the crank bolt so it is tight so I tighten back up thats a while ago but now iv got play in the BB so any tips to remove the crank arm just orderd new crank bolt the try again great vidio tho.
I’ve heard of lots of people having issues getting the crank off, even in using a long pole on the end of the wrench to give you leverage. I would try your local bike shop if it’s not playing ball. Without seeing it it’s hard to establish the problem. Hope you get it sorted and thanks for dropping by😊👍
Hi James, I just wanted to know if you had an FSA Omega with the 6 pins on the non-drive side. I've tried a 10mm Allen key and either it's worn, the thread inside has worn but either way it's not budging an inch. There's a six pin key available for about £80 online.
Getting of this w*nk crank is costing me a fortune.
I’ve heard they can be a bitch to budge so I’d try to lengthen the Allen key so you can get a better leverage which will help. Send me an image of your crank, I’m sure it’s just an Allen key. Can email me, email is in my about section of my YT.
hi, thanks for the tutorial, i have a topstone 2 alloy, but i didn't find the size of the Bottom Brake to buy it, any help please?
If you’re changing like for like just look for the FSA BB 4000 this is the code
The width is 68mm
What size bottom bracket tool is needed to remove the bottom bracket?
I’m not sure on the size. I use a standard BB tool, if smaller then you usually get an adapter with the BB which you don’t with the FSA BB4000. If looking for a socket, always make sure it’s got 16 notches. Sorry I couldn’t be more precise.
Easy isnt it, compared to press fit.
Sure is😊👍