Go for AKs worn effects rather than this honestly AK have got the formula to a T! You can control it with a brush less water gets a nice worn paint good for pitting engines etc and more water gets very nice chipping all controlled like hairspray method with a brush! This stuff just flakes and peels off after applying water I got this stuff to do a review for today for the hobby shop and AKs worn effects is the way to go!
I think i have a 0,3 needle and when i tested the vallejo chipping medium in my airbrush the fluid came out in a very small amount. What should i do? Did i have to much presure in my compressor or should i take some sort of thinner? Happy modeling and keep it up!
+04Stefan07 Can't guarantee it does because there are so many types of metallic paints - might work with the water-based ones but won't with solvent-based. You need to spray them first in the metallic shade & do all your weathering on top (after sealing) with products like washes & pigments &/or do your rusty paint effects over the top with a stippling technique using an airbrush at very low power.
Not entirely sure best to check, however I have had success with Tamiya XF and with Lacquer as well as their normal thinners as the thinning agent. As always, check on a scrap piece first!
So if I want to create spots of rust I do the following. I paint the model with basecoats and highlights as I choose. I then varnish the model. Step three is to apply the chipping medium. Then I add the rust color. Once that's dried I wet the paint and remove as much as I see fit leaving the desired rust effect. Is this the correct order?
Rust base coat, seal, chipping medium, top coat(s), attack with water to reveal small to large amounts of rust under the top coat(s). That said, your method could work for a very rust-riddled vehicle with more rust than paint, like an old abandoned wreck. The problem with chipping medium is it can leave a lip around the edge of the chip (unlike hairspray) so it has some texture to it which might reveal that it's been done in reverse, i.e rust on top of paint's surface.
@@scalewarmachines Thanks for the prompt reply. I was doing just as you suggested but decided to confuse myself for no good reason. So, I'll rust up the undercoat and do all the highlighting and detailing with the old airbrush. Then chip away.
I painted tank with rust colors, than I covered it with chipping medium. After it dried I painted with airbrush with green color using more than one layer to cover... More, I left model till tomorrow, because I didn't finish clear painting... Trader told me that I can wait for some days and chipping effect will work, if I'll use tooth brush to scratch it... But now, I thing that now I've lost my rust layer forever... Am I right? Or it is possible to use chipping effect on the next day?
Same day or several days later, it doesn't matter. As soon as the top paint layer is dry you can chip. You didn't mention water. Make sure you moisten with water to start chipping and revealing the rust.
After you chipped the topcoat with water, can you use a ready-made wash, without destroying the chipped effect? Or should you apply a layer of varnish ?
Usually yes (if solvent washes), but maybe allow a few hours to dry. If in doubt or to be 100% safe, seal with a varnish. If the wash is water-based, it's worth remembering that water content will start the reaction again. So solvent washes ok - water-based washes (e.g. Vallejo Model Washes) definitely seal first.
Quick question, do you know if chipping medium can be applied with a paintbrush? i know it sounds a bit of a dumb question but im curious to know if you can get the same sort of result with regards to coverage etc.
Hi, If you don't mind i have a few questions, - Do i need to thin the Chipping Medium or Spray Straight from airbrush? - After i spray the medium how long i have to wait for dry? - Is it possible to spray the Chipping Medium, Spray the paint, leave over night and do the chipping next morning? Thanks in advance.
+Yan Naing Kyaw No need to thin Vallejo Chipping Medium but apply it in thin layers straight from the bottle via airbrush. It is touch dry fairly quickly, say 20 minutes, spray over when touch dry. You can leave it once top-coated as long as necessary, it will still corrode the Vallejo Chipping Medium due to the reaction with water & then paint will start to get distressed & chipped. Have fun!
I've found the longer you let it dry, the harder it is to get the desired effect. I would be careful around small, brittle parts like handles and hooks, as when one has to apply serious pressure with sandpaper, steel wool, or toothbrush, it is easy to break these type of delicate parts. I would rather use a small sponge and dab on the model to get the required rust or worn metal look.
Daniel Ebling You can just go straight between coats with acrylics - if you are at all worried though you can always protect with a coat of Klear or an enamel varnish if you wish - it's entirely up to you. If you don't use a varnish, just make sure the acrylic base has hardened & is fully dry.
I did a test piece and after the chipping fluid had dryed I noticed that it looked like water that was beaded up on a metal surface, I think I sprayed to much . And not the top layer of paint is all bubbly looking which makes me think I sprayed on to much . Did you think the fluid at all and what psi do you spray it at
I find this product far too thick in texture, and needs to be thinned out. It's also not clear how long you are supposed to wait before applying the chipped or secondary coat. Worse is the varnish, which I don't use as it clogs up my airbrush (sparmax mini) and I've had very mixed results ranging from no reaction to some reaction. I like Vallejo's products but this one is a dud.
Yep, see your point re the chipping medium, it's a tricky to master product. The varnish is mostly good, it's our go-to matt but we only had one bad experience with it in many years. Always use a fresh bottle from the model color reference list and dilute with Vallejo airbrush thinners.
All I can say is AK worn effects is perfect just perfect for creating worn and chipping effects this stuff is god awful! Doesn't react great with little water then you apply wee tad more and it starts to lift and wreck your paint job! I tried it with primer then paint it wrinkled and peeled it just lifted right off the model like paint stripper! Crap!
Arguably hairspray is better and cheaper for certain usages. This stuff is admittedly very thick and hard to control compared to AK. Check out our video on AK chipping.
@@scalewarmachines I use Aks chipping and worn effects all the time I have near enough every other product but AK really has got the formula correct! It's the only one I use and to be honest its alot better than the hairspray!
As much as I would like to say its crap I can't! I love it! Just got a bottle for a friend to try tomorrow I'm sure he will agree to this stuff! It's to old maybe 7years ago it was good at the time but its horrid stuff now to what else is available!
I love your videos for the content and because you can pronounce Vallejo correctly. :)
great video despite the sound issues
Definitely need to try this soon! 👍👌👏
Go for AKs worn effects rather than this honestly AK have got the formula to a T! You can control it with a brush less water gets a nice worn paint good for pitting engines etc and more water gets very nice chipping all controlled like hairspray method with a brush! This stuff just flakes and peels off after applying water I got this stuff to do a review for today for the hobby shop and AKs worn effects is the way to go!
I think i have a 0,3 needle and when i tested the vallejo chipping medium in my airbrush the fluid came out in a very small amount. What should i do? Did i have to much presure in my compressor or should i take some sort of thinner?
Happy modeling and keep it up!
Hey buddy, did you find an answer? I'm having the same problem I can't get it to spray, thanks!
weird. I thought that you should put the chipping medium over the paint you want to remove. Doesn't seem to change things since it comes off anyways.
Hello!
Does the chipping medium work well with metallic paints? I need to be able to have this effect with gold.
Thanks!
+04Stefan07 Can't guarantee it does because there are so many types of metallic paints - might work with the water-based ones but won't with solvent-based. You need to spray them first in the metallic shade & do all your weathering on top (after sealing) with products like washes & pigments &/or do your rusty paint effects over the top with a stippling technique using an airbrush at very low power.
Does this work with alcohol based acrylic like mr aqueous or Tamiya XF? Or is it only for water based acrylics?
Not entirely sure best to check, however I have had success with Tamiya XF and with Lacquer as well as their normal thinners as the thinning agent. As always, check on a scrap piece first!
So if I want to create spots of rust I do the following. I paint the model with basecoats and highlights as I choose. I then varnish the model. Step three is to apply the chipping medium. Then I add the rust color.
Once that's dried I wet the paint and remove as much as I see fit leaving the desired rust effect.
Is this the correct order?
Rust base coat, seal, chipping medium, top coat(s), attack with water to reveal small to large amounts of rust under the top coat(s). That said, your method could work for a very rust-riddled vehicle with more rust than paint, like an old abandoned wreck. The problem with chipping medium is it can leave a lip around the edge of the chip (unlike hairspray) so it has some texture to it which might reveal that it's been done in reverse, i.e rust on top of paint's surface.
@@scalewarmachines Thanks for the prompt reply. I was doing just as you suggested but decided to confuse myself for no good reason. So, I'll rust up the undercoat and do all the highlighting and detailing with the old airbrush. Then chip away.
It doesn't come away in my case and I don't know why
I painted tank with rust colors, than I covered it with chipping medium. After it dried I painted with airbrush with green color using more than one layer to cover... More, I left model till tomorrow, because I didn't finish clear painting... Trader told me that I can wait for some days and chipping effect will work, if I'll use tooth brush to scratch it... But now, I thing that now I've lost my rust layer forever... Am I right? Or it is possible to use chipping effect on the next day?
Same day or several days later, it doesn't matter. As soon as the top paint layer is dry you can chip. You didn't mention water. Make sure you moisten with water to start chipping and revealing the rust.
After you chipped the topcoat with water, can you use a ready-made wash, without destroying the chipped effect?
Or should you apply a layer of varnish ?
Usually yes (if solvent washes), but maybe allow a few hours to dry. If in doubt or to be 100% safe, seal with a varnish. If the wash is water-based, it's worth remembering that water content will start the reaction again. So solvent washes ok - water-based washes (e.g. Vallejo Model Washes) definitely seal first.
is it possible to use chipping medium over the surface of the lacquer paint?
Yes should be fine.
Quick question, do you know if chipping medium can be applied with a paintbrush? i know it sounds a bit of a dumb question but im curious to know if you can get the same sort of result with regards to coverage etc.
In theory yes, it should work - just apply a thin coat. You could test on a scrap model first. As to doing it, we only really used an airbrush before.
Thanks for the responce. Yeah i assumed it would work (in theory). Will defo give it a go! Thanks again!
Hi,
If you don't mind i have a few questions,
- Do i need to thin the Chipping Medium or Spray Straight from airbrush?
- After i spray the medium how long i have to wait for dry?
- Is it possible to spray the Chipping Medium, Spray the paint, leave over night and do the chipping next morning?
Thanks in advance.
+Yan Naing Kyaw No need to thin Vallejo Chipping Medium but apply it in thin layers straight from the bottle via airbrush. It is touch dry fairly quickly, say 20 minutes, spray over when touch dry. You can leave it once top-coated as long as necessary, it will still corrode the Vallejo Chipping Medium due to the reaction with water & then paint will start to get distressed & chipped. Have fun!
+Scale War Machines Thank you sir. Your help is very appreciated.
Thank you! Result was good!)
I let my chipping medium dry for 30 minutes and top coat looked really cracked as soon as I sprayed it.
I've found the longer you let it dry, the harder it is to get the desired effect. I would be careful around small, brittle parts like handles and hooks, as when one has to apply serious pressure with sandpaper, steel wool, or toothbrush, it is easy to break these type of delicate parts.
I would rather use a small sponge and dab on the model to get the required rust or worn metal look.
can be used with enamel or acrylic?
Acrylic only!
👍
Do I have to apply this via air brush or can I as well brush it on?
Both though airbrush is way better.
Do I need to seal the base color with a enamel gloss coat if I'm using acrylic paints or can I just go from paint to chipping fluid to the top coat ?
Daniel Ebling You can just go straight between coats with acrylics - if you are at all worried though you can always protect with a coat of Klear or an enamel varnish if you wish - it's entirely up to you. If you don't use a varnish, just make sure the acrylic base has hardened & is fully dry.
Can I use tamiya paints with them being alchol based
Daniel Ebling yes - there's no probs using Tamiya paints.
I did a test piece and after the chipping fluid had dryed I noticed that it looked like water that was beaded up on a metal surface, I think I sprayed to much . And not the top layer of paint is all bubbly looking which makes me think I sprayed on to much . Did you think the fluid at all and what psi do you spray it at
And when I'm all done I need to seal everything with a coat of varnish right . Thanks for the help and the great video
Warm water works best.
I find this product far too thick in texture, and needs to be thinned out. It's also not clear how long you are supposed to wait before applying the chipped or secondary coat. Worse is the varnish, which I don't use as it clogs up my airbrush (sparmax mini) and I've had very mixed results ranging from no reaction to some reaction. I like Vallejo's products but this one is a dud.
Yep, see your point re the chipping medium, it's a tricky to master product. The varnish is mostly good, it's our go-to matt but we only had one bad experience with it in many years. Always use a fresh bottle from the model color reference list and dilute with Vallejo airbrush thinners.
All I can say is AK worn effects is perfect just perfect for creating worn and chipping effects this stuff is god awful! Doesn't react great with little water then you apply wee tad more and it starts to lift and wreck your paint job! I tried it with primer then paint it wrinkled and peeled it just lifted right off the model like paint stripper! Crap!
Arguably hairspray is better and cheaper for certain usages. This stuff is admittedly very thick and hard to control compared to AK. Check out our video on AK chipping.
@@scalewarmachines I use Aks chipping and worn effects all the time I have near enough every other product but AK really has got the formula correct! It's the only one I use and to be honest its alot better than the hairspray!
As much as I would like to say its crap I can't! I love it! Just got a bottle for a friend to try tomorrow I'm sure he will agree to this stuff! It's to old maybe 7years ago it was good at the time but its horrid stuff now to what else is available!
Paid for by Vallejo...
Unlikely as their main competitor's paints are used! But hey.