How To Replace A Sledgehammer Or Maul Handle (5 Tips)
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
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It is really simple to replace a broken or damaged sledgehammer or splitting maul handle. All you need to do it follow a few easy steps and you will be breaking concrete in no time. We give you 5 tips for how to replace a handle.
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Great tips. This is absolutely the best way to mount a sledge 100%
As someone who worked for years in a stone quarry and has mounted hammers sometimes multiple times a day, I can tell you this method is the longest lasting and tightest way to do it.
Hammering the bottom of the handle into the head will definitely create micro fractures in the grain that will most definitely split with hard use.
Two tips I can add are:
- always inspect the grain of the handle before you purchase it. Often times you can see spots where it will likely split or is already splitting. Look for very tight long grains that run the full length of the handle.
- if you put the hammers through heavy abuse, wrap tape TIGHTLY just below the head and at the base of the handle. This helps to absorb shock and helps prevent delamination of the wood grain. Of all the hammers I used while splitting stone, the ones taped like this lasted the longest.
Thanks again for posting the correct way to do this very old skill!
Awesome! I appreciate it.
Thank you for the tips.
Hey, what kind of tape you suggest? Electrical tape? Duct tape?
I mounted an 8 lb head to a new handle with your method and couldn't be happier with the result. I have a 10 lb head, picked up at a recycling depot and the new handle has been bought. Looking forward to a repeat experience. :-)
That's awesome. Glad we could help.
@@CountryLivingExperience ~ :-)
Very helpful. Saved an ancient sledge this way.
Awesome. Glad it helped!
Not bad. Some extra tips and some field-testing corrections in your system:
1: Grab it by the handle when you're pounding the head down, not by the hammer head itself. You'll get it to drive down further. It helps A LOT.
2: Before you insert the wedge, it helps to cut the excess off of the handle, first. This lets it sit in deeper and spread the wood better.
3: For the "Competing schools of thought" on the "one or two wedge" case, I can say you need one wedge if it's wide enough to split the wood wedge at the center, or two wedges if you need to space them to split the wood wedge and "make an 11" (as a weird old guy taught me, which has turned out to be BY FAR the way that the handle breaks down the shaft before the head walks its way off, and I use 12-16 pound hammers). Basically, you don't want it to get metal-to-metal with the wedges, but you want it to be close. If you can't get close with the metal step wedge in the center, then spread them slightly and use two parallel to each other and perpendicular when intersecting the wood wedge. The metal wedge should be biting more handle than wood wedge, essentially.
4: Use some bonding agent and not oil to seal it off. You can still use oil, but finish it with some stronger bonding agent like a cheap epoxy or even just wood glue that you let set in. It helps for a hammer that you'll be using for a long time if you have a good axe handle that you put in it.
Very clear and easy to understand. Well presented
Thank you. Glad it was helpful.
Good job . Straight and to the point
Thank you
Nice video. Just for the guys asking about removal. If you have time you can place the broken head on or close to a heat source like a coal furnace or oil burner. I do this for a couple days and it helps dry out the broken handle making it a little easier to knock out.
Thanks. We did a video on removing the old broken handle. Works fast. Here....czcams.com/video/gSt7NB_JlfE/video.html
Great video, straight to the point.
Thank you.
Very clearly explained. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Has anyone tried using glycol anti freeze , after all the work is done putting the hammer head to the handle , soak head in antifreeze, Preston, or something like that . The wood will swell with the antifreeze solution . Old logger's trick . Great video makes simple, anyone can do it. Repair don't throw away.
Thank you
Your welcome. Sometimes the old patient way , is the best way. However always be open to other possibilities. Thanks for the reply.
Video starts at 1:30
It's never gonna come off for decades.
Great video.
Thank you.
great info, easy steps, thanks brother
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Excellent video and technique.
Thank you
Great video. I'm ready to get started on the project. Thanks!
Thank you. Good luck with your project.
Good stuff Sir. Cheers!
Thank you kindly!
Very helpful! TYVM
Glad it was helpful!
Great tip. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Great tip easy installation
You’re welcome
restoring tools.
seed it properly.
as tight as possible.
just barely starts to go into the end of the head here, and that is actually fitting really, really nice.
pound this down.
if it's too tight, use a rasp and start removing some material. be very careful that you don't remove too much, because you always want a tight fit. just a few light passes on here will do the trick. insert the handle into the head itself as HARD as you can, then turn it down and stike this part. start the handle insertion into the head. that works perfect for me. you want that. that shows how tight it is. that's exactly what you're looking for. lubricate it as you're pounding it down. it wasn't a mega-tight fit, it is tight enough and that's gonna serve its purpose really, really well. you want that thing to be insanely tight in there, and that's what we've achieved. you want a fine-toothed saw blade here, and we've got one of our Japanese saws, and we're gonna cut that off just a little bit at the top of the head. moisturize that wood. check out our tool store. LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, LEAVE COMETS IN THE COMET SECTION BELOW!
☄️ ☄️
great job , buddy, about to try it (-:
I appreciate it.
Great Great info
Glad it was helpful!
@@CountryLivingExperience yea I have a Warwood cross pein hammer and when I bought the handle from menards it had all the wedges you showed with it. However I still had a gap so I just taped the top and put epoxy down the 2 holes. (You should show how to do that!) Still I never would've gotten started without this.
thank you well done
Thank you.
Thank you for info great info..wondering when you order a handle from hardware store if it comes with wedge and steel wedge you put on top of sledgehammer head ..we have a lockdown here in canada and we just order by calling store...thank you
You’re welcome. You usually have to buy the wedges separately.
@@CountryLivingExperience thank you for quick reply will order it aswll ..cheers
Do you have any videos for putting handles on shovels?
Sorry, we don't at this time.
We have 2 black Hathorn trees. We have been told the branches make wonderful tool handles. Have you ever made a handle from scratch?
I have never made a handle from scratch. Maybe someday. I have always used hickory or oak and do not know how other trees hold up.
@@CountryLivingExperience just try with a old hatchet head and work the wood
I know with Axes, there's a top and bottom to the head because the eye is tapered. is this true with sledgehammers?
Some are and some are not. It really depends on price point.
One thing to remember is to make sure that the wood grIn goes with the hammer heads length and not across the hammer head.
wow, that's great, this tutorial is awesome.
What if I want to change the handle with metal shaft/pipe, do you have video on this?
Thank you. Adding a metal handle is something that we have not done. It would have to be welded on.
Don't use metal handle, vibrations will kill u
Dont do it man it will brake you up
That would destroy your wrists. Just the thought of a metal handle makes me cringe in pain
Restorage the love
Interesting video, I got a 20 Pound Sledge Hammer that has a broken handle & I was hoping to see how to remove it from the head, it's got a ring of steel in the center of the top of the handle instead of a straight wedge I I was hoping to see how that's supposed to be removed.
I did another video prior to this on how to remove the head and restore it. Check out my channel video page and look about a month prior to this video release. Or...here is the link to it: czcams.com/video/gSt7NB_JlfE/video.html
Several holes with Thin drill bits followed by hammering with a cold chisel
I use a cordless drill with a old bit to drill out holes anywhere I can. Then use a flat punch or big bolt to tap out the wedge and old wood.
I was interested to see the slot in the end of the handle. How did that come about - did you saw it in yourself? My new handle has none, so I suppose I'll have to saw a slot in to it. Any advice on this? To me, that's potentially the most important part of the job.
All of them made and sold here have the slot. I have never found one without. Sorry.
I have the same issue. The handle I purchased has no slot. I'm thinking of returning it and getting one with a slot. What did you do?
Great video - really helped me to do this - though after oiling the wooden wedge, it pops out as soon as it gets really tight, am I missing something? thanks
You're welcome. I am not sure why it would pop out. I have never had that happen. I don't even understand how it could pop out.
@@CountryLivingExperience The wood wedge goes in pretty easily with about 1/2" remaining above the handle, and then with the last hard whack it jumps up, or even shoots across the room. I left it in over night to see if the fibers would compress, but still back to square one. I might try making a new wedge and see if not oiling it makes a difference. Otherwise I guess I'll try to keep the wedge down and use the metal wedges to keep it in place.
That is an interesting issue I have not run into. Sorry.
Same thing happened to me - I’m not sure the oil on the wedge is such a great idea. I got it in long enough to then secure it with the metal wedge going across it, but I’m guessing a wedge with a greater angle is also more prone to pop out. If it keeps ejecting itself, maybe shaving the wedge down a bit so it’s tight but not super tight might help.
Instead pf that steel wwdge can we use a round pipe? Like its used on some hammers?
Those pipe pieces are just round wedges. They are sharpened like a wedge. They are also a little harder to find at the store.
@@CountryLivingExperience I just cut a 10mm stainless steel pipe and sharpened it and it worked fine. The only thing I forgot was to put in that wooden wedge. I only used that pipe. But it was for a 600g hammer. Do you think it will hold up?
@@danijel124 That should work.
Just epoxied a fiberglass handle to an old 14lb head. Good to go.
Can I use the same handle?
What do you mean?
I bought a sledgehammer handler but it has no place for the wooden wedge. Could I just use a metal wedge or should I saw into the handle and also buy a wooden wedge?
I would return the handle and get one that has the slot then use the wedge. That is the correct way to do it.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks for the swift response. Trouble is I can't find any on amazon UK that have the slot.
@@BenTheDoonhamer Sorry brother. There may be some old school vids out there about how to saw the slot so that the handle retains its strength.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks bro. I'll keep looking and if that fails I'll saw my own slot. Peace
Where's the handle varnish prep video?
Here is the link: czcams.com/video/BwhlmA61iuU/video.html
So if breaks the handle is no good?
Correct
I would however disagree with the amount of curled wood when seating the head. You stated that we want to see some curling. In my opinion the head should seat as far as possible without any curling wood.
I respectfully disagree. I learned from old timers and Wranglerstar does it this way too. If you are curling the tiniest bit of wood you know it it tight and seated all the way around.
The curl is the beginning point of weakness, it will break there.
" Rooster" the guy who designs tools for council tools, has explained the concept in detail. Wrangler Star is notorious for regurgitating incorrect information also.
I tap it in to get a good start. Then i take a mallet and hit the handle. I don't think it makes a difference how it's done if your handle is the correct size for the eye of the head.
If only it was as simple as all that. I tried to do this today and I wound up with the handle sitting at a weird angle in the head. It's not straight at all. Now I need to cut it off and start over from the beginning.
This is one of those skills that takes a few try’s to figure it out. It’s not hard but it’s not easy until you get some practice. My first time hafting an axe did not go well it was loose and sloppy, but after some more attempts it really came out great. Good luck on your future hefting adventures.
Did my 10 pounder yesterday. :-)
Sweet
Isn't the head upside down?
no
I found something online that said if one side of the hole is beveled, the beveled side goes away from the handle. That way when you install the wood wedge and metal wedges they expand the wood to fill the beveled area so the handle won’t pull out.
I think the head is upside down or whoever put the previous handle on was upside down. When you watch part one of the video on cleaning this head, you can see the 8lbs mark on the opposite side of the wedge. Generally with most sledges and mauls, the etching/marking of the head are on the side of the handle, not the wedge side.
@@jasonscott4525 You are 100% right he put the head on upside down. The makers marks and weight are always on the handle side ALWAYS. That's why the bevel faces the handle so it fits the curve properly.
Man!, I am respectful n all. But when things are running hot and you got to make that piece of metal stick to the wood; cut a piece off, grab any shrap metal you can find, and make it snug.
I have been so so frustrated I even tried wrapping wire around it. 😂🤣🤣. Ja, ja, ja... sorry 😁
In the real world most likely you can't find a handle the fits.This is good if you find one that 100% your shape/size
It was easy to find and I live a long way out in the countryside. They are very standardized sizes.
the head is on the wrong way the writing should be on the bottom I think
It is on correctly.
No it's not, you put the hammerhead on upside down and that's why you're getting the curling wood on the handle side when you tap the handle in.
I think that head was upside down. I've never seen a sledge where you'd want the weight or makers mark facing up.
Fiberglass and epoxy.
That dosent work at all
Hahahhaha