Switching Motor & Controller from Recalled FIIDO T1 into Replacement FIIDO T1. Watch Before Buying!
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- čas přidán 2. 01. 2023
- This switching of motor and controller might not be entirely necessary. I would suggest to simply unplug the original controller from the recalled FIIDO T1 and plug it into the replacement T1. If that doesn't work, then I would recommend going forward with the rewiring. I have very little patience and wanted to be back up and and riding at full speed NOW. So, we did a little soldering. And it worked. I have the performance of the original FIIDO T1 on the new frame that is supposedly unbreakable. (Not sure how people were breaking the original frame anyways, especially since I crashed mine at 30 mph, bent my fork, and nearly broke my arm). (Never Again).
Happy and safe riding to you all. If any of you find that it is just the controller that needed to be switched out, that would be great to know. Well, at least for other people at this point. I don't plan on doing this job again.
Glad you got the replacement T1 , I was worried for you after seeing your earlier video .
The only thing I did to my T1 was speed unlock and change the seat to a smaller seat. I am not to tall and I can touch the ground better. I feel more safe and feel in better control.
Great video. Do you know to unlock top speed. Thanks
The way I understand it is Fiido has reprogramed the controller to smooth out the acceleration and enhance battery performance. For me it wouldn't matter whether I got 32 mph or 28 mph as long as I got more miles per charge and a more efficient battery. Are you getting more miles per charge?
Is there or will there be a follow up review to these updates?
Great job. However to get back the performance you just need to switch the controller. Try it, it's a 30mn job.
You are right, sir. I only ever needed to switch the controller out. Either way, I have a brand new motor in stock in case I never get the original frame reinforced and buy another battery, and figure out how to modify the new controller so I could achieve the dream of having two e-bikes capable of 28 mph instead of just one. I'm just happy to be back on my bike after so long, and being able to get up to full speed again, instead of a measly 14 mph.
the original frame was potentially lethal , why would you still use it , if you sold it you could be held responsible for any injury caused to the new owner if the frame snaps , it was recalled for a reason , I would save all parts that could be used as spares but scrap the frame , I get that you would love to own two e-bikes but it’s not worth face planting the ground at speed if the frame snaps .
I think I will keep what I have. I did the speed unlock and it dose fine.
The thing that i didn't like is that when you pedals the motor stop at 25kpm. Solved with the controller and acceleration and speed is better as well.
The replacement bike seems to be mixed bag. Mine is better at climbing hills with the pedals - amazing. Lovely for the rest of cycling except that even after the electronic unlock, it only does 23 km/he(15 mph). There is a workaround if you stop peddelling if just hit the throttle - it will bring you up to top about 23 mph which was the top speed of the old T1. Changing out the display made zero difference. I knew the controllers are the same. I also reckon the motors are the same also. They have the same kind of power characteristics. A 250W motor does not know its a 250w motor - it will just take whatever current you give it till it burns out. So, I think the main difference here is the cadence sensors in the new bike. it is better balanced because the battery sits about 1 inch lower. The hydraulic brakes are super and make it a pleasure. So I already sold the old bike on to a friend. If I stick with it further down the road, I will look to third party controllers and a different display. So for now it's good.
I think they are right in saying that it is a mislabeled motor. BUT, the controller is definitely reconfigured. My original T1 was getting up to 28-30 mph on level 3 pedal assist upon first purchasing back in April last year. I expect to have that performance always. What you are describing is what I was experiencing with the replacement bike, and that is simply unacceptable to me. I'm happy with it now though, and will just be looking for info on how to reconfigure the controller they sent with the replacement bike. Happy riding to you Sir!
@@fatguyonanebike3909 I think you will find the controller in an analogue affair. Changing out the final resistor to a suitable value should alter the current to it. It will be trial and error.
You sold a recalled bike with known frame snapping problems to a friend , I'd hate to see what you sell to none friends.
@@mickd6942 My friend knows all about the T1and the frame break issue - he's a friend. He wants to modify the bike as an experiment for adding a centre-drive motor. If he likes the result he will re-enforce the frame with an extra crossbar.
May I ask ? What is the AMP on the controller ?
Hello, maybe you can help, I received a Fiido T1 bike yesterday, today I have this problem, there is an E2 error on the display also the engine does not work and the rear wheel does not turn, I do not know what the reason is, thank you very much!)
If you did the unlock and it made no difference then simply change the controller 😂. You don’t need to change all that you just made an easy job hard work 😂😂😂
what battery does it use? i have one without the battery. Can i buy it off amazon? attach a link if you can friend.
the single lone cable that sits on the frame near the chain has a black waterproof male and female connecting plugs that connects to the rear hub. it is a ten pin and has a particular connecting shape inside not completely round. any one know why i can buy that identical socket. i looked online but cant find the same one male female plugs.
I listened to a reviewer in Great Britain that said his country limits bikes to 250watts by law and there is no way that the T1 has a motor that size. Definitely 750.. He believes that is just a work around label for the European market
its the same motor it just speeds up more smoothly fixing a flaw sharp take off
he had two bikes he now has one 🤦♂️
You have two operating ebikes, but choose to have only one instead?
Why not fabricate a frame bracket for the original T1 to re-enforce the frame weakspot and just ride it until it fails, at least you would still have two operating ebikes.
That was the dream: to have two e-bikes. That still might be the plan. But, I definitely want to get the original frame reinforced with some sort of sleeve that I could have one of my fabricator friends put on for me, and then also buy an extra battery, and now that we know the new controller is the issue, buy an original controller that would allow it to go up to 28 mph. I haven't given up on that dream yet, but it's gonna be a ways off.
@@fatguyonanebike3909 I kept my original T1 & replacement T1 "as is", fabricating a steel "L" bracket to be mounted on the original T1 frame between the two water bottle cage mounting points; maybe 1/4" steel bracket would be plenty sufficient to support the weak spot on the original T1 frame.
I actually prefer the replacement T1's power output with lower torque, makes it easier to maneuver at lower speeds, U-turns, etc.. Top speed really isn't much of a priority riding among bumper-to-bumper traffic.
A 250 watt motor sucks. Till I get a recall email . I will keep what I have. If it works do,nt fix it.