Is Chevy is Better than Toyota? Yea, I asked. & Exhaust Manifold Bolt Breakage Explained
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- čas přidán 3. 12. 2022
- You may not agree, but numbers don't lie.
#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny @WrenchingWithKenny - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Home mechanic here. I've been fixing for my family, friends, and my own for 20 years and I always told myself I could never do this for a living. No job ever pans out to be what it should be (some do but we forget about those). I commend you sir, not just because of your knowledge, but your approach. New to the channel and I like it. Wont hold it against you being from NY. I promise....
LOL 😆. It's just second nature to me now. Been turning wrenches professionally for almost 40yrs now. I'm a rare bird who actually enjoys it , but believe me , I've had my butt kicked many a times by jobs that should have gone smoothly. I will never actually retire from this, I don't know how ...
Stubbornness, it's a NY thing lol 😆
@@WrenchingWithKenny good on you man.
@@WrenchingWithKenny The hardest jobs always teach the best lessons. Or at least you never forget the solution.
You are essentially correct about the stud breaking, The distance from the underside of the nut to the first engaged thread in the block is called the stud grip length. The stresses in the stud due to the imposed manifold distortions are roughly proportional to the ratio of the imposed distortion to the grip length (i.e., to the strain in the metal). A design with 5 times the grip length will have about 1/5 the added stress from distortion. In challenging applications where thermal distortions and vibration are present, a good rule of thumb is to design the grip length to be at least 6 nominal bolt diameters (for example, a grip length of at least 3 inches for a 1/2-inch bolt). If you experience repeated failures or loosenings and you have the room, one thing to try with thin-flanged manifolds would be to install longer studs and a spacer between the nut and the flange that increases the grip length. (Another good thing to do is make sure that there are at least 3 or 4 complete threads in the flange region above the first engaged thread. This also reduces local stresses around the first engaged thread.)
My daily driver is a 5.3, 2000 Suburban LM7 with just over 400,000 km on the clock. We can't expect the new generation to last so long, if only because the thinner frame rots out, cam phasers and lifters stick, and electronics corrode. None of the new vehicles from any manufacturer last as long, they are rolling computers. I love the elegance of Toyota engineering.
89 Ford ranger with 262k uses 1/2 quart oil per 3k miles and still runs highway speeds only 4 parts have been replaced
300k on my 2002 Blazer ZR2. Still getting the sticker mpg, 16 in town & 18 to 19mpg on highway.
Paid $3k for it 5yrs ago & she's a beauty. 🤟
It is the lifters that go from 4 to 8 cyl that is the problem.
The "elegance"? Like what? The bumpers that are made of tin? The cheap interiors? The frames that rot? Toyota truck frames have been known for rotting for over 30 years. The rear diffs that go bad? I remember in 2018 at the Chevy dealer I worked at, we got a 2010 Tundra on trade and it already had a brand new frame! No, I work on all makes and models and the myth that Japanese cars and trucks are better is just that: A myth. Sorry but as they say," Facts don't care about your feelings."
@@markkukowski3710 So whats better a frame and diff that is replace by Toyota or engines and transmissions on GM trucks?
What you see is what you get. Straight forward & honest . Need more guys like you. 👍
Something interesting to note on the introduction of the second gen Tundra they utilized stainless steel headers from the factory. You never see them break. Not to say it can't happen but its superior to the cast iron
I have replaced hundreds of stainless manifolds on Jeeps, FYI. They redesigned them with built in flex pipes to relieve stress.
By Golly, I still wish I knew about that tool in the old days. With regard to Toyota vs Nissan vs Chevy vs Ford vs Dodge. . . . . . . . They're ALL good when they run! I just wish it was legal in this country to flog automotive design engineers once in while. I think I used to fantasize about that.
Hahaha !! I still do , daily 🤣
I only read a few posts, but I gotta say I think you've stumbled onto long term metal fatigue. If it ain't in the main part, it's in the fasteners! Thanks for your amazing insights and cool diagnostics. You nail it, really well, and you own it, because your bring the experience, insight, and talent, everyday. I truly enjoy watching people who love what they do, and do it the best they know how! 💯💯💯
Thanks, Kenny! 👏👏👏
Hello...greetings from Costa Rica, love your videos...and agree 100%... I have a new to me GMC Yukon from '97 with a 5.7 and I am beyond happy with this truck... Pura Vida...
Thank you for watching !! I appreciate you !!
GREAT CHANNEL.THANKS FOR PASSING ON YOUR KNOWLEDGE
Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Since subscribing to your channel, i really do like the way you reason through problems and the wide variety of topics you cover. Thanks again from Texas
I appreciate the input !! Thank you soo much !!
Pretty sure the old Chevy exhaust manifold bolts were a bigger diameter then the LS one’s. Keep up the great work. 👍
They were.
I've got a Chevy s10 4.3 340000 miles on it still runs strong
Hello Kenny,
Im new to your channel and really like the content as well as your willingness to share the abundance of knowledge that you have obtained over the years. On another note, my wife and i have been driving Nissan products for over 30 years and have found them to be very reliable, we keep up with the maintenance schedules and they have always kept us on the road.
Great video. I'm 65 now. Before I retired, we owned a three generation auto electric shop. It started in 1938. I worked there most of my life. And I have never seen a perfect vehicle. They all have issues.
Keep up with your teaching videos. They give a great reason to learn about vehicles. 👍👍
I’m so 😊😊😊😊
My last two "LS" powered trucks got ARP bolts with 5kish on the clock. Easier to get them out new and not fight the broken studs. Not to mention how easy the dipstick tube comes out to access those two bolts when they are new.
Very good point !
I swapped my 4.8 “ls” into my 78 k10 had 2 broken exhaust bolts when I pulled it and put cheap stainless headers on it new bolts haven’t had an issue yet
They also basically turned out by hand
Exactly!! I've got a 2005 2500hd and also a 2013 2500hd both with 6.0's I learned about the broken exhaust manifold bolts with the 2005 and had to go through the pain. New manifolds with arp fasteners. I ran the k.r.a.l. clamps on the 2005 for a while until I could fix it right. They did ok but are in the way!!! The 2013 got the arp bolts with very low mileage and got to avoid the mess with it. It's a very known issue and gm should and could easily fix it but like so many things anymore these companies do not have any pride in what they make.
I'm glad you did this topic. I owned a two thousand and four silverado for twelve years and two hundred thousand miles. Rebuilt transmission and transfer case. Next on the list was the rear end.motor was solid. Exhaust bolts and the heads had not broken yet. Put on probably three sets of hubs in that time line and a complete suspension rebuild. I am torn thinking of purchasing a tundra now. Versus buying another silverado, another cat eye. But what I'm looking for is in that range of 10 to $15000 clean. Rust free.hundred and forty thousand miles tops. However that time line is about right for transmission to be built and transfer case and suspension. I can purchase a 08-12 tundra for a out 15-20,000. And get 300,000 out of stock trans,rear-end. Not sure what to do.
Don’t forget bolt size. If I remember right the small block and big block for that matter had 3/8” bolts with a bigger hex head. The LS ones are definitely smaller. I agree with the post that recommends swapping them out before they break. Do one at a time.
I have a 2012 Chevy Silverado 4.3 (old timer iron block six cylinder) and it's been flawless but I bought it new and have taken care of it.
Good points / good thoughts about the different exhaust manifold thicknesses. That made sense. Seems that the "Bean Counters" at the automotive corporation headquarters figured that if they made the piece thin, that would use less iron, thus it would cost less to make. "Penny wise but pound foolish" comes to mind.
Agree with you about the Chevy/ GMC engines versus the Toyotas. Chevy & GMC pick-ups from the 1950's and 1960's are still on the road. Toyotas do not last nearly as long. I saw many Toyota pick-ups on the side of the roads/freeways in So.Cal. for many years. Lots of hype from Toyota TV commercials, and the TV watching public are easily duped.
My 1992 Chevy 350 c.i. V-8, 3/4 Ton FWD inherited from my dad, must have about 330,000+ miles on it and it is still running. Change the oil, filters, plugs and battery and tires periodically, but the engine keeps doing it's job.
Thanks for your comment. It's all about the maintenance. Meg worked at Toyota. They are great at marketing media. Thanks for watching the channel & keep wrenching 🔧
i think you are right about the exhaust flange thickness (too thin on newer manifolds) causing the outer bolts to break off.
I worked in foundry for years.
Casting pistons and frame parts.
Over the years they cut weight on thinner flanges and thru bolt connectors.
Thats why more breaks, also aluminium lighter but snaps more easy.
My 2001 Sierra with a 5.3 has 480K on the clock. Original motor runs fine except when below freezing! LOL! I believe I have a manifold leak issue. (idle low and surging) Runs fine after it's hot. BTW it still has the original manifolds and bolts. Back in the day I had too many 305 and 307 Chevy small blocks with wiped out cams! BTW my dad's 97 Ranger 2.3L has over 500K on the clock. Great channel! Thanks!
Very wise observation. You have enough knowledge to be an engineer. I hope that the auto manufactures (all of them) are watching your videos.
You nailed the exhaust bolt issue...great vid again
I love my 2006 gmc Yukon xl suburban. So much so I'm going save it , not drive but for long drives and hauling fire wood . And got a Toyota mini van to drive into the ground and not care what happens to it, unlike my gmc. The 1999 to 2007 were probably the best gm ever and will make, and were built to last with easy to fix inexpensive parts.
99-06 was when the GM trucks peaked in reliability. LS engines before they ruined them with cylinder deactivation. Get one with a 4L80 and it will run forever.
I agree, you are right on this. 18 year Nissan tech now retired and the CVT is or was a money maker for me. You can add the 80s-90s Pathfinders to the warped exhaust manifolds with broken exhaust studs. If I ever had a week with no exhaust studs broken I felt very very fortunate. I’d probably have over a pound of worn out 1/8” drill bits from those repairs.
I drive an 09 silverado w 5.3 with active fuel management and 184k miles holds great oil pressure at idle 40 psi no lifter tap just a small manifold leak. I made sure to drill extra holes in the built in pcv in driverside valve cover and the truck doesn't burn a drop of oil.
This is hiw old I am. Was a fully certified NAISE tech. Now itbis referred to as ASE. Kenny is absolutely right! I currently own 05 Tahoe 5.3. 180k benn absolutely great truck. I have to admit i just welded in new rockers and repaired rear panels. Had I done some rust proofing in thise problem areas it still be awesome.
Bittom line it always comes down to maintenance! On time!
The 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine was bolted into my Holden VY SS Commodore here in Australia by Holden & it has done almost 391,800 kilometres (243,453 Miles) & I have replaced the hydraulic lifters which mushroomed & started to jam up in the lifter bores & I have resealed the engine,it had missed a few oil changes before I bought the car.
I replaced the left hand side exhaust header gasket because it was leaking exhaust gas but none of the bolts were broken,it runs a set of 1 5/8" primary Genie tri Y headers rather than the cast iron exhaust manifolds.
I drove a Holden VL Commodore which Holden had fitted with the Nissan RB30E six which we replaced snapped exhaust manifold studs in which was a very common problem on the Nissan engine.
I got well over 400,000 kilometres before it started to burn oil so they're about as good as the Chevy engines,not better, they were arguably better than the 3.3 litre Holden six that Holden had bolted into the previous VK model.
It was the biggest load of junk out of the Holden sixes because Holden did something with their metallurgy in the "black " motor because it was softer than the previous blue & red Holden sixes which lasted longer.
They were painted those colours so they had the Grey Holden six (138 cubic inch), Red, Blue then black.
The Holden V8 engines were red, blue then black,the black 5 litre V8 engine was replaced with the Chevy LS1 V8 engine in 1999.
It seems to be the other way in Australia, manufacturers act like no one wants a Holden or Ford which went for 1 million or so kilometres !
Keep what you do it's great its not pre planed per say you Are a great mechanic you been there done it many times over. So yes off the cuff and is a better way to teach you run into issues and deal with them and show that. That is an very important part of Turning wrenches and auto repair
Kenny , you are correct there are no perfect cars /trucks you pick the problems you can deal with , I was always Amazed that on old factory small block chevys there is no exhaust manifold gaskets and they did not leak . Then if the manifold had to come off you needed a spreader tool to get the bolts in and you had use replacement gaskets it was helpful to have the machine shop surface the mounting flange flat before you stared the job .
I have been a Chevrolet (All GM makes and models) for 40 years: I still have manifold spreaders in my toolbox, although I haven't used them in years! Memories -
My 2001 F150 has:
305,369 miles.
My 2000 GMC Yukon 5.3 is at: 127,632 on it. Both still going strong!
My 1978 Power Wagon 360cu in 4X4 would go through exhaust manifold gaskets a lot. Only had 97,000 miles on it when I traded it for a full size Bronco with the straight 6-300cu in.
Much Love and Hugs
My daily is a 1996 Blazer LS, 4.6 V6 with 221,000 miles, also have a 1991 C1500 longbed Silverado 5.7 with 325,000 on the clock. Both run great. Not overcomplicated with various modules and electronics that fail. None of that cam phaser crap, or cylinder deactivation. Both will still throw you back in the seat when you stomp on that loud pedal. I started wrenching on my own junk at 16 yrs old. That was 49 years ago. Never had an exhaust manifold bolt break.
The design of the exhaust on the classic is clearly the difference. Thanks for your well thought out videos.
As always great stuff Kenny !
Kenneth , as a welder of all types of metal ,i have to agree with , your thoughts are correct
Thank you sir !!
I think you hit it on the nail if you ever notice Cummins engines whether its 67 or an M 11 they put bushings on and extend the bolt head from the manifold so I think if you wanted to fix a problem with that with an LS motor would open up the holes on the mounting and put bushings on with longer bolts. I bet that fix the problem.
In Africa, I grew up on Japanese Motorcycles. No problem! I drive a Japanese car now. No problem. I am in England now. Love it!
I had an exhaust manifold leak years ago on a Mazda MX-6. When it was cold and started, there was a loud whine, could not locate at first. When it got, it would stop. I took it in to the dealership, they stated I needed a new turbo. I purchased a turbo from an auto parts store. As I was disassembling the manifold, I discovered it had a broken exhaust mainifold stud broken. I got the broken stud out, replaced it with a new one, torqued it down, and whalla! No more whining. Returned the replacement turbo. Lucky I was going to do it myself.
Also, the old style gen 1 SBC ex. manifold bolts are NOT full threads from the head of the bolt to the end. So, not only does the size (diameter) make it a better bolt, but the un-threaded shank under the head makes it even stronger, threads are a stress riser in the shaft of the bolt. I have never seen an all iron SBC ex. manifold bolt break, unless it was rusted/corroded.
Interesting philosophy, possibly correct. BTW, 1990 454 Chevy r2500 Suburban.
Still going strong 💪
I remember back in the 60's, 70's & 80's you could pick up a used vehicle that was about 6 to 8 years old for around $350 all day long. They had about 80k on them but you would be lucky if it lasted to 100k. Try to buy a 6 to 8 year old vehicle now with about 80k for $350 lol
I would buy a new used vehicle every year as they was beaters with Heaters
Yes !! Most of my cars were like 8-10 yrs old and usually cost me between $1 & 300. Most were under 100K in mileage too . The cars really didn't last well
@@WrenchingWithKenny They would last about a year for me, which was fine I was making great money turning wrenches and for $300 a year that was nothing. I sure miss those days. The stuff we could get away with back then lol. I had a 1979 Buick LaSaber 2 door in mint condition with about 85K and loaded. I took the cat off and ran reg lead gas sure I had to open the filler neck but it ran a lot better. Everything worked on the car and I owned it for two years, I think I paid $450 for it. It was a great car with a big back seat lol hey I was young and dumb back then
@@DavidGuns I can't even count the number of great cars I destroyed because I was young and dumb . One in particular was a 1970 Chrysler Imperial 2 door that I got from the original owner. It was in mint condition. I believe I paid $500 for it . I got it for the 440 motor that I stuck in a 73 Challenger I had . The Challenger was no creampuff by any stretch.. That Imperial was just beautiful, and I junked it after taking the motor , trans & rear ... Total Dummy
@@WrenchingWithKenny oh I hear you. I bought a 1975 AMC Matador black on black, pw,ps,AC. It reminded me of a Camaro in the front with the head lights and a older Corvette in the rear with the way it looked. I remember I bought it on a Friday because I took this girl out on a first date lol. The car was clean. About 3 months later I had to replace the ball joints. I wish I had it now, I do not remember what engine it had but it had power. It had the rounded back seat like the mid 1960 Thunderbird had. I did put wider tires on it since the factory rims just didn't look good.
I bought this one in 1983 and the mileage was 53K and I thunk I was the second owner. Also believe this I always made a copy of my titles and I still have all of them, out of driving for about 35 years I have only financed two vehicles up till my buddy had a bad accident and after about a year not working his vehicle got repro and since that I told myself I will never finance another vehicle that I will save up for it that was the best thing I have ever done in my life.
Beaters with heaters... I heard that. If it's the one thing I did when I was young was buy a beater, and made damn sure that heater worked. 😂
I remember the old school Chevy SB's. I have 3 vortec engines with 175K to 250K miles. They all run great. I totally agree with you.
Edit: I wanted to add I have a 2005 Nissan Titan. It has 390K miles on it and still runs great. It still has the original motor and transmission. I would buy another one in a second.
I had a 98 blazer that the body was fully restored and the motor was kept like me and the previous owner that was a judge in California. We both babied this blazer until the day I sold it in 2016. I still miss it.
you ever think about using longer bolts with a coil spring on the manifolds. the coil would allow expansion and retraction and still keep it tight against head. No doubt newer engines are better. The oil change reminder light has become the same thing as we use to think about the oil pressure light. When it comes on it's to late. Proper maintenance is the key
Your theory sounds logical to me. Everything was built heavier in the old days ... lol. I've had 14 GM vehicles, a 73 AMX, 2 Fords and currently use a 2003 Jeep GC Overland for my Winters, old reliable 2001 Eldorado for most dry road days and a 2015 300S 3.6 RWD with
Thanks for the comments !! I always love hearing people's stories !! Thanks for watching !!
I remember doing so many cams and lifters in Chevy small blocks in the eighties. Or changing short blocks because the bean counters took out the nickel content in the blocks and that created cracking in the lifter valley. As for the Toyotas, they are uncomfortable. And the Nissans, also have their issues. But today’s cars and trucks, no matter the brand, are far superior in longevity compared to yesterday. That’s why we relegate our favourites from our youth to car shows and nostalgia
My 2015 Silverado has a 5.3 with about 169000 miles it runs great I bought it 2-1/2 years ago. It does have a ticking noise coming from the drivers side.
I hooked up my shop vac to the tail pipe while not running, then put on the blow side tested with soapy water the first connection below the manifold and had some bubbles so I think it needs the donut gasket.
When my LS1 hydrolocked I got a HP97 5.3 from ATK with 243 heads and a mild comp cam, took all my accessories and intake and swapped them over. Then every bolt I could replace with ICT Billet or ARP got replaced.
Probably outlast me lol
Chevy 350 used to die of burnt exhaust valves or a timing chain that jumped and bent all the intake valves, usually by 120k miles. My Dad always claimed that they wanted the car to be scrapped for engine death before the suspension failed. 100k was a lot for a 1960s car.
Im 53 & i just love Cars & 4x4's that i can work on. I've never had an engine go out on me & I've only owned used cars & trucks or 4x4's.
My 2002 Blazer ZR2 4.3 Vortec has over 300k miles on her & she runs better than my Wife's 2009 Ford Escape XLT non-hybrid.
You can't even feel it running w/ the AC on!
It's a bumpy runner with Bilstein shocks & being a 4x4 but shes trusty & still looks new because its always been garage kept, Never abused.
I'd jump in & drive her from Houston to Alaska. Still getting the sticker mpg for 2002 in July 2023.
Take care of your cars & they'll take care of you, depending. lol
I still dive my 91 GMC 1500 with the 5.7 and automatic so easy to work on 438 k on it just needs valve stem seals.
I just sold my 2002 Astro with 4.3 Vortec... Original engine and trans 180k miles... No issues.. .
You obviously did a fantastic job maintaining it. Thanks for your reply. Keep wrenching 🔧
I agree with you about the quality of the vehicles. Young people don't remember that after 100K miles the Chevys, Fords and Chryslers were done. It was only when the Japanese came into the market that the big Three had to step up their game and improved their product. I live in north Jersey and I just got rid of my Jeep Grand Cherokee with 198K miles. It didn't owe me anything. All manufacturers are in the business of selling vehicles and if the quality isn't there, they don't exist period. Put a car from the 70's right next to one from now and then tell me which one would you drive. Thanks for your tips and observations, they are great.
Yes very good analysis !!!
It is amazing how well a new Chevrolet Silverado is made and just how long they can last with proper maintenance and care.❤
The 1993 TBI is a rock solid block. I have 285k on it and all I've done is timing gears and chain, harmonic balancer, distributor, tbi rebuild (including injectors). Small costs when doing it yourself and comparing to newer trucks. 300k is doable on Gen 3 and 4 too. I think the roller cams came in like 87 into the 350s in the truck's...
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 with right at 200,000 miles. Engine still runs like new. It's had a new water pump, alternator, starter and radiator, which may sound like a lot, but for 200k miles, I consider that not much more than regular maintenance. I just with the window regulators would stop breaking every year or two.
Good point, looks pretty common sense to me, keep wrenching.
Good analysis!
I've never tried it , but I wonder if old model exhaust manifolds will fit newer model 5.3 LS engines ?
I have a 2002 silverado 1500 with the 5.3 that has 200,000 miles. I keep up the maintainence on it and have only had minor bolt on parts need replacing. It is as solid as when new. I love it! I also have a 2010 Lincoln MKS with 115,000 miles and have had zero problems. The only things I have replaced are wearable parts. Looks and drives like new. You could not do that with the older cars.
Buddy of mine works for the power company here they had 12 new ford's that used 5 gts of oil in 8 hours n we're new
Same In Australia. Old holden v8s based on the Buick rocket v8 would chew cams and break rockers even standard like mad. The ls1 was a blessing with cam wear. Later dod and Ls3 s are a little worse for cam wear.
So if you got longer bolts put spacers on them would that prevent the bolts from snapping off?
My Dad had a 73 Chev Camper Special (2500 HD) with the 350. The right exhaust manifolds broke on a regular basis, original and replacements. He searched all of Northern CA looking for a used one because that would indicate it wouldn't break. He was unable to find a single unbroken right side exhaust manifold.
I'm 68 years old, and I remember a time when nobody would buy a vehicle with over 100 thousand miles on them because most of them didn't last that long, or they would start having major issues about that time.
The biggest reason for the extended engine life on the newer stuff is unleaded fuel and fuel injection. Those 2 innovations doubled engine life expectancy. And I've had several Toyotas without any more reliability. My Celica GT was wonderful but went thru 2 motors and 2 transmissions in 250K miles. My Tercel was a cheap POS. My Yaris was worse.
And I am still wrenching , but now for my family on their vehicles I retired from the trade when I turned sixty two but here I am at sixty eight and still going but at my own pace
I used the Chevy small block from the 265. Then the 283, 327, etc. Back when engines were sized by cubic inches. The small block was more reliable, had more hp and was easier to get more hp out of. The 289 Ford was a good engine, but it looked like a Chevy copy. But all engines 1950s-1960 didn't last as long as current engines. The weak point was the rings. At 80 to 100,000 miles the crosshatching in the cylinder, that carries oil to the upper cylinder, was gone. So the ring and bores would wear enough to be a smoker. But there were many engine rebuilding businesses. In 1965, I could rebuild a short block for about $100. A full set of gaskets was under $10. One problem was the manufacturers tried using chrome rings for a few years. But the chrome was harder than the cast iron cylinders. So the cylinders wore out anyway. And the PCV valve came out about that time. Vietnam was calling and that was the end of my car wrenching days except later for racing.
I had a series of Chevy 3/4 ton PUs. In the late 1960s a 327 had 350-375 hp. I bought a '71 and they improved the engine and the new hp was about 250. Then I bought a '78 and it had about 225 hp after it was improved. Later an '86 350 Chevy 4x4. They didn't list the hp, my guess was about 175 hp. I had to rebuild a brand new engine so I could pass a VW beetle. That was the end of gas PUs for me. Although the transmission went about 400k. Diesels didn't have smog checks. I purpose live where there are no smog checks, and for other reasons.
In the 70s and early 80s I had a number of Datsuns (Nissans) and Toyotas.I never had any engine issues. They ran better than US made engines of the time.
I had a 70 Chevelle wagon with a 350. Turbo fire engine it used to shoot the push rods through the rocker arms, it would keep doing it.
Okay, I’ve been catching up on some of your older videos and here I am.
I have a 2000 Yukon xl with the 5.3
It’s got about 208,000 miles on it, I’ve had it 20+ years. Living in NYC has done a number on the sheet metal amongst other things. But it still runs great. I’m waiting for the manifold bolts to give. The hex heads have transformed into chocolate chips. That’s what they look like.
I’ll deal with them when they break.
Until then…..
Wiped cams on Chevy 305's were everywhere.. remember the turbohrdromatic200/250?
Could you get an aftermarket exhaust manifold that is thicker cast iron?
valves timing chains soft cams leaking valve covers ....but the newer small block before the ls was good.. roller cam 1 piece rms center bolt valve covers they did last!! my aera in n.y. the ram is most common and i would agree on the manifolds a good point hey if you were back at dodge you could do a hemi cam pretty quick!! and the chevy ls with afm
Exactly!! When GM changed the small block, it was a huge improvement!!
I have heard from several people that the GM trucks/cars seats are ergonomically designed to a point that people drive for hundreds of miles and don't feel tired. I once drove a Ford (work) truck to a jobsite 70 miles and that Damn truck felt like a covered wagon. Never again. The Chevy Service Van was excellent and could drive over 200 miles and no backache or problems.
Same thing is true for Fords. I worked on lots of 60's - 70's. On average most did not make it to 100K miles without repair work.
## Yes the Toyota big pickup reminds me of riding in s I H pickup in the 60's, there rode nice with a few thousand lbs in the back!
Kenny I think your spot on there buddy.
my '03 Silverado with the cloth seats...... most comfortable vehicle I ever had.
Some cars in the sixties I never saw a bolt break on, but they did not go through the manifold directly. In they had large oval washers that engaged tabs on the manifold and held them in. I saw manifolds crack and break, but never the bolts. Maybe they should go back to that style of mounting.
We have one with 450,000 on it and it’s still going and I put on over 350,000 in the previous one. They do make some noise when they are starting up but we know that aren’t new so we keep driving them.
Hey Kenny Scott from Los Angeles area. Can you buy higher strength bolts that will alleviate the problem when you buy the vehicle new? Like grade 8 or something? I don't know what grade bolts they use for exhaust manifold's? Maybe stainless steel bolts with some never seeze? I know they get hot as hell and expand?
I believe that you are entirely correct about the exhaust manifolds
I'm in the Seattle area and I see lots of Toyota Tacoma's and 4runner's everywhere I go.
Funny, I have a 2011 dodge caliber (don't laugh to loud) When I start it, it sounds like a small truck. Let it warm up and it's silent. That being said, I have a 2002 Tacoma that doesn't quiet down if someone had a gun pointed at it!
The dodge is nice for around town, and long trips. If you want 5 speed fun, and get stuff done that Tacoma is the bomb!
Neither leaks a drop, I've had tranny issues with the Dodge, rust issues with the Tacoma.
Each has it's reasons and benefits.
BTW I have an 07' Nissan Murano I guess I've hit all the points!
Ps. Just tried your trick with ATF4 on my ticking Ford Transit.
Sounds great now.
What I see is a grumpy old man who knows what the heck he is talking about. This is what I like about Kenny--from a grumpy old man.
Great information 👍
Thank you !!
Yes, however my 262 V6, a shortened SBC with the same style exhaust manifold bolt flange, FORTUNATELY, broke the inside bolt behind cyl. 3 about 1 turn in.
Hey Kenny, could you do a video on them "chevy shake" coming from the drive line and the thermostat in the trans. My 18 sierra has 32 thousand miles and will start shaking at high speeds. My trans runs around 180 and 190 without a load. All my life I have been told that a trans must run cool.
Anything below 210 is fine. Newer trans fluid holds up to heat better.
That was some good insight
I have owned lots of old Fords and they were very heavy duty, easy to fix. My old Bronco has 420,000 miles on it. Their only 2 achilles heels are 1) lots of heat and 2) carburetors don't like heat. They last a lot longer with fuel injection. It really blows that the new cars are all metric , if I could buy a new car today that's just regular cubic inches and SAE bolts I would buy one in a heartbeat.
Both my manifolds on my 97 f150 went complete junk, ended up replacing both with new studs and even the EGR tube went toast and needed replaced. The tube itself was good from the looks, it was that nut that goes into the manifold that rusted beyond salvaging... thing busted off removing it. I literally hate messing with exhaust anything, be it manifolds, pipes or mufflers. Always something that needs cut off and welded back on.
My 2007 Trailblazer 4.2 has over 230,00 km no major repairs, still my daily driver. My wifes 2015 Dodge caravan 3.6 with 160,000 km needed new oil filter housing, lifter tick and went to the scrap yard due to broken flex plate.
You scrapped a car because of a bad flex plate?
I have a 2001 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 with 126,000 miles on it original engine transmission and rear differential. Cost alot to keep her running because of Repairs over and over I have to remember she is all most 24 years old
It was pretty funny over here when you said that the only ford you like was the 5 l
General motors gave that engine to Ford.
And the only way that statement could be untrue is if Ford paid for it. Money on that!
The 90s and early 2000s GM trucks are the best trucks you can buy in my opinion. Pretty easy to work on and it’s such a comfortable ride. My 2 door Tahoe has 252k on it, air still blows cold, doesn’t burn a lick of oil, fires up every time. I will disagree with you on the newer GM products. The cylinder deactivation is just awful, transmissions are still junk, a/c issues, the list goes on and on. Wouldn’t touch a new truck with a 10ft pole but that pretty much applies to every new vehicle for me. Did have a 2011 Silverado and it was a good truck, started having HVAC issues and trans began to slip around 150k. The 90s chevys are my absolute favorites and are rock solid besides the 4l60e.
I still hear people say points are far superior to modern electronics. I have to wonder when they ever actually last had a vehicle that had points.
Great logical insights. Let the haters hate. Keep up your content!