I just heat gunned my kids' Power Wheels and it brought new life into it. I wish I would've sanded the oxidation off first now after watching your video. Great Job!
Great process. I'm doing the math in my head of how many hours vs. buying a new fender. But those plastic pieces are likely expensive. Or on older stuff, I can see where they might not be available. Thanks for showing the process.
If the replacement plastics are readily available and affordable that could be a better route. About 2 hours on that rear fender start to finish. Larger pieces would take longer. Thanks for watching!
Found my way here via Bushradical. I am currently cleaning up some plastic trim parts from the grill of a 1980s pickup truck I'm rebuilding and restoring. New parts are no longer available so i was stuck with doing something with the one's i had. They were really crusty after being stood out in all weather's for many years. I found that medium grade wire wool is great at getting the rough stuff of first, then worked my way down to the finest grades, they have left a really great finish. David in the UK.
Thanks for coming over to the channel! Had the same issue when restoring my 84 Honda CR250 and could not find new plastics for it. I have also used light abrasive wheels on the dremel tool.
I never thought of using a dremel and scotchbright for the tight spots. Always hand sanded. You might want to try a Sheeps wool buffing wheel on a drill or polisher, i have found it to be more forgiving and creates a higher gloss.
I will give that a try. Currently in the final stages of restoration on a 88 Honda CR500. Enjoy your channel and have picked up some great tips watching your content! Thanks
Got a question about the radiator hose from pump to the back of the cylinder on the 88 CR500 that you may have dealt with. I put the 91-01 aluminum clutch cover on and have a new silicone hose for 85-88. Outlet angle is different now and the new hose does not fit well. Gets a kink in it no matter how I position the hose. Searching the web for a solution and come up with zero. Any suggestions? Thanks
@@backcountryrich7740 I have not done this conversion. But i would guess you need to use a longer hose. I will keep my eye out to see if anyone is making a hose with that bend
I appreciate learning & seeing how to do certain processes. I was never taught growing up so I get to be an old learner. What is the difference between dry & wet sanding?
Wet sanding prevents the sandpaper from getting clogged up with particles such as plastic or paint. Woodworking, drywall projects usually would be dry sanded. Thanks!
Hi rich. I'm your number 99 subscriber! I saw bush radical recommended you. I'm sitting just below 100 subs myself. I have a boat cowling that I need to restore so the information was pretty applicable to that job I think. Best of luck to you! Mike
Hey thanks for the sub.! Bushradical is a good friend and has a great channel. Glad there was some useful info. In the video. I will visit your channel and subscribe. Good luck to you as well!
Your parts look really nice. Great job. This is a timely video. I am currently "restoring" the chain guard and radiator guard on one of my RZ resto mod project bikes. I have found attempting to buff out plastic parts with my benchtop buffer (like you are using) if it catches for a split second you end up with a serious burn on the plastic. It happens very quick, no warning when it grabs an edge. Today I'm going to attempt using a DA car polishing tool as it should be a lot more forgiving. I made a video restoring etched out plastic lenses on a gauge pod. I had to remove the clearcoat on them but they came out beautiful. It takes a lot of effort but it's a labor of love, ain't it? I will go check out more of your videos now.
Thanks! Using the bench wheel does take some getting used to. You are right on, if you stay in one spot it will burn it. I use a buffing wheel on my drill as well. If I could vary the speed on the bench buffing wheel it would help a lot. I restored an 84 Honda CR250 using the same process and it came out very nice. I have also used new UFO plastics on some bikes. They make really nice reproductions that have that factory fit and finish. Really appreciate the support.
Is That Brian From Delta? Hells Yeah! How Are Ya Bro? Just found your channel, and subscribed of course. Dave Told Me You Started A Channel. Right On! Im 2 years in now. I'll be watching.
@@backcountryrich7740 Right On! Yes Sir, doing good here. Staying warm, wishing I was magnet fishing that's for sure. Appreciate You Subscribing Brian. Good to see you on here.
If you don't leave it outside and generally take care of the machine it lasts similar to new plastic. Its not gonna look as good as a new plastic but can make a 35 year old bike look like its 1 year old.
![🔴 Cómo restaurar PLÁSTICOS MOTO #2 [ PULIR PLÁSTICOS Enduro ] Restaurar plásticos con CALOR](/img/n.gif)
I just heat gunned my kids' Power Wheels and it brought new life into it. I wish I would've sanded the oxidation off first now after watching your video. Great Job!
Thanks!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Great process. I'm doing the math in my head of how many hours vs. buying a new fender. But those plastic pieces are likely expensive. Or on older stuff, I can see where they might not be available.
Thanks for showing the process.
If the replacement plastics are readily available and affordable that could be a better route. About 2 hours on that rear fender start to finish. Larger pieces would take longer. Thanks for watching!
Nice work! I'm restoring an '88 CR250R and an '86 CR125R at the moment. Love these old bikes!
Good info!! Thanks!!
Thanks for watching!
Wow , man they shine up real nice. Great info , thanks.
Thanks!
Keeping old looking new
Cool vid
Thanks!
I think this is the best video about this. For me anyway.
Thanks!
Found my way here via Bushradical.
I am currently cleaning up some plastic trim parts from the grill of a 1980s pickup truck I'm rebuilding and restoring. New parts are no longer available so i was stuck with doing something with the one's i had. They were really crusty after being stood out in all weather's for many years. I found that medium grade wire wool is great at getting the rough stuff of first, then worked my way down to the finest grades, they have left a really great finish.
David in the UK.
Thanks for coming over to the channel! Had the same issue when restoring my 84 Honda CR250 and could not find new plastics for it. I have also used light abrasive wheels on the dremel tool.
Poppin Cherries...came out great man. Good luck with the channel!! ✌🍻
Thanks!
I never thought of using a dremel and scotchbright for the tight spots. Always hand sanded. You might want to try a Sheeps wool buffing wheel on a drill or polisher, i have found it to be more forgiving and creates a higher gloss.
I will give that a try. Currently in the final stages of restoration on a 88 Honda CR500. Enjoy your channel and have picked up some great tips watching your content! Thanks
@@backcountryrich7740 Thankyou for watching the channel.
Got a question about the radiator hose from pump to the back of the cylinder on the 88 CR500 that you may have dealt with. I put the 91-01 aluminum clutch cover on and have a new silicone hose for 85-88. Outlet angle is different now and the new hose does not fit well. Gets a kink in it no matter how I position the hose. Searching the web for a solution and come up with zero. Any suggestions? Thanks
@@backcountryrich7740 I have not done this conversion. But i would guess you need to use a longer hose. I will keep my eye out to see if anyone is making a hose with that bend
@@TNTMOTO Thanks
thank you so mush for sharing your knowledge. More power to you.
Thanks for the support!
Thank you dude! Bout to go get an 86 XR 80 for the kiddo!
Your welcome! That will be a fun bike.
I appreciate learning & seeing how to do certain processes. I was never taught growing up so I get to be an old learner.
What is the difference between dry & wet sanding?
Wet sanding prevents the sandpaper from getting clogged up with particles such as plastic or paint. Woodworking, drywall projects usually would be dry sanded. Thanks!
@@backcountryrich7740
Thank you for the reply. Makes sense.
Bushradical sent me over.
Good work.
Question can you use car wax on that as a protectorant?
Thanks for stopping by! Got more Diy videos coming soon.
You know have not tried that. Might work. I have used different spray on treatments.
needed a lot more 400. you can still see the sticker lines even after `1500
The more effort you put in the better the result. Thanks for your support!
Big thanks for all the positive comments and new subscribers!
Thanks from Newfoundland Canada
Your welcome, thanks for watching.
Hi rich. I'm your number 99 subscriber! I saw bush radical recommended you. I'm sitting just below 100 subs myself. I have a boat cowling that I need to restore so the information was pretty applicable to that job I think. Best of luck to you! Mike
Hey thanks for the sub.! Bushradical is a good friend and has a great channel. Glad there was some useful info. In the video. I will visit your channel and subscribe. Good luck to you as well!
Your parts look really nice. Great job. This is a timely video. I am currently "restoring" the chain guard and radiator guard on one of my RZ resto mod project bikes. I have found attempting to buff out plastic parts with my benchtop buffer (like you are using) if it catches for a split second you end up with a serious burn on the plastic. It happens very quick, no warning when it grabs an edge. Today I'm going to attempt using a DA car polishing tool as it should be a lot more forgiving. I made a video restoring etched out plastic lenses on a gauge pod. I had to remove the clearcoat on them but they came out beautiful. It takes a lot of effort but it's a labor of love, ain't it? I will go check out more of your videos now.
Thanks! Using the bench wheel does take some getting used to. You are right on, if you stay in one spot it will burn it. I use a buffing wheel on my drill as well. If I could vary the speed on the bench buffing wheel it would help a lot. I restored an 84 Honda CR250 using the same process and it came out very nice. I have also used new UFO plastics on some bikes. They make really nice reproductions that have that factory fit and finish. Really appreciate the support.
It would cost about $400 dollars in sand paper alone
( not to mention all the time involved ) to do my old
Honda quad. Must be another way 🤔 ☹️
If you can find better used plastics or new ones go for it! I agree
verry nice job.
Thanks!
Is That Brian From Delta? Hells Yeah! How Are Ya Bro? Just found your channel, and subscribed of course. Dave Told Me You Started A Channel. Right On! Im 2 years in now. I'll be watching.
Hey brother, yes it is. Doing good. Yeah Dave told me about your channel and I subscribed as well. How you doing?
@@backcountryrich7740 Right On! Yes Sir, doing good here. Staying warm, wishing I was magnet fishing that's for sure. Appreciate You Subscribing Brian. Good to see you on here.
@@alaskansonthefly2737 Same here, ready for summer! I will watch your vids. too. Thanks for subscribing as well. Hope you do great!
@@backcountryrich7740 Same To You Brother.
Great job
Thanks!
Which polishing paste did you use ? Excellent video ! I am planning to restore plastic's on my Aprilia Sx 125 2012 two stroke (competely faded) ...
I used a brand called NOVUS. Really good polish for acrylic and plastic. Did not use any polish until the last high gloss pass. Hope that helps
Very cool
Thanks!
Have Heard about wetting it as you use the heat gun
Have not tried that. Sounds interesting
Nice!
How Long does it stay that way?
If you don't leave it outside and generally take care of the machine it lasts similar to new plastic. Its not gonna look as good as a new plastic but can make a 35 year old bike look like its 1 year old.
Veeery good Sir!
Thank you for informations!
I will aply the same!
Greetings/Ro!
Good luck!