I'm in Aurora CO, and I have a 4 ton Mitsubishi Hyper-heat, indoor air handler and ducted system. It replaced a gas furnace and is the only heat source in a 1500 sq. ft. plus 750 sq. ft. basement. No heat strips installed. On the coldest weekend, it worked fine set at 71 in the day, 66 at night (I used these temps before with the gas furnace and wanted a comparison). It used 95 to 105 kWh per day for just the HP, add 5 kWh for the air handler. It ran for around 20 hours a day on the coldest days. I think the house was more comfortable with the HP. If I look at degree days, I would have used 140-150 therms in a comparable month with the gas furnace. Here, gas works out a little cheaper in a very cold month, a little more expensive when it's not quite so cold. I imagine the outdoor unit defrosts but I'm not standing out there to watch it and I can't tell from indoors.
@@InsidiousDr9 I don't have good numbers yet. It was installed at the end of August so not that many hot days. The system has 3x the cooling capacity of my old conventional AC so it cools well, just don't know how power usage compares.
@@davidstewart1153 - do you have any sort of roof over the outside unit to cover it from rain/snow? I just finished installing a 4 ton ACiQ heat pump in my home, and like you I only have 1500 sq ft (no basement though). I placed it where my previous AC condenser was, but it's sitting out in the elements so it gets rained on and will get snowed on. While reading through the install manual it said to have some sort of shelter over the outdoor unit to prevent it from being rained or snowed upon - after learning about defrost cycles this makes more sense for when it gets really cold outside (ie below freezing w/active snow). Finally, have you measured the temperature at the vents inside your home when the heat is on? I just bought a thermometer to measure my numbers. It produces adequate heat so far when at freezing outside, but the air temp doesn't seem as warm as my old gas furnace was (though at 84,000 BTU's it was ridiculously overbuilt for my home). Also, my thermostat isn't requesting full heat from the heat pump anyway, so I assume it can produce hotter heat if needed. That being said, looking through the manual it seems like I can make it more aggressive by flipping some DIP switches, if I want. Though, since I'm using a 24v thermostat and not the thermostat it came with I may be losing out on some features, it seems. Sorry for the word vomit! I just want to pick your brain.
@@crxtodd16 I saw the price of manufactured shelter things and decided to build my own this summer. Then I can add wind and shade protection too. I wrapped and covered the lineset with plastic covers used for DIY minisplits. I haven't measured the duct air temperature but it doesn't feel as warm as the gas furnace. I was told 95 degrees by the installer.
Good suggestion for a video I’ll keep this in mind when I have time. They had another propane stove heat source for the upstairs floor (above the heat pump) in their addition, so it’s primarily for their basement and upstairs because of how it communicates with the upstairs through the stairway and two floor vents. Basement is total around 800-1,000’ total house is around 2,600’ with about 2,000’ effectively above grade since the “basement” is like a walkout since it’s on a hill.
Thank you but can you now do a video on how this heats? Considering I set my AC at 65 I would like to know the actual heating capabilities of this unit!
I do similar contents in Chinese but in text and image, not video. The thing that I really want to know is why isn't there a lot of contents from you guys look inside the unit, to discuss or review the parts that its made of. They can vary dramaticly and effect how well it performs or how will the end user feel. We have a lot review contents talking about the part, we measure how big are the coils, we show the displacement volume of compressor, we show if there is EVI, are they using bldc motor or EXV. Also, most Chinese brands offer low temp heat pumps domestically as well, where its mostly 4kw heat @ -20c outside 18c inside with cop of 2, or air to water heat pump in various sizes with outside air -20c flow 55c with cop of roughly 1.8 at 172liter/h flow rate for every kw of heat.
I would do Geo in a cold climate where Air source can’t keep up as well. Air source is typically fine above 0F to 10F, there’s products that work. If you’re doing Geothermal though as the guy in the article talks about I highly recommend vertical drilling. Keep in mind we’re new to the geothermal space but the drilling company we work with only does vertical loops because of the reasons outlined in the article. The tax credit is 30% on geo with no cap so that part is awesome
@@TheHVACDopeShow - We have a 10 acre property, but it's sandy soil and the link you provided suggests a vertical installation would be more effective. Thank you.
Remember that before you get a geothermal system installed you really need to make sure you have an abundance of companies that can potentially service or ideally, many decades later, replace the units. Many people opt for the Geothermals but get one contractor and never have anyone that can regularly check up on them. Which should be something you think about before pulling the trigger in it.
@@AJ-ox8xy - If these systems were not becoming more and more popular, I would be concerned about that. Twenty years from now, the costs will be lower, the efficiencies higher, and the availability of qualified service even better, because both air-source and ground-source geothermal are simply superior options for heating and cooling.
If I had known about the defrost cycle where I have no heat for the home, I would never have bought a heat pump. I regret my purchase. I prefer gas furnace.
Which heat pump do you have? This can be adjusted in settings… you can adjust this power on auxiliary heat during the defrost cycle if you have auxiliary heat strips (which you should in a cold climate with an air handler)
I’ve never been in someone house with a heat pump that was comfortable. They alway complain about electricity cost. Maybe these newer systems are better.
Yeah night and day difference. Radiant in floor heat or baseboard hydronics is the most comfortable but you don’t get humidification options like you do with a forced air furnace or heat pump. We installed forced air just so we could have a humidifier because it’s so dry
I unsubscrbed, you repeat yourself and talk too much about nothing. Just give facts, maybe have some notes to keep on track. You just wore me down by the third part of aciQ video.
2600’ for the house, basement is 800-1000’ and the basement drafts to the rest of the house via two floor vents and a stairwell. 2 ton so it’s 24k btu~ heat output at 100% capacity is 29,000 Btu so when it derates with ambient temp drops it’s still putting out a good amount of heat
I'm in Aurora CO, and I have a 4 ton Mitsubishi Hyper-heat, indoor air handler and ducted system. It replaced a gas furnace and is the only heat source in a 1500 sq. ft. plus 750 sq. ft. basement. No heat strips installed. On the coldest weekend, it worked fine set at 71 in the day, 66 at night (I used these temps before with the gas furnace and wanted a comparison). It used 95 to 105 kWh per day for just the HP, add 5 kWh for the air handler. It ran for around 20 hours a day on the coldest days. I think the house was more comfortable with the HP. If I look at degree days, I would have used 140-150 therms in a comparable month with the gas furnace. Here, gas works out a little cheaper in a very cold month, a little more expensive when it's not quite so cold. I imagine the outdoor unit defrosts but I'm not standing out there to watch it and I can't tell from indoors.
Thanks for sharing this is a very helpful comment! I didn’t get to dive into their bill as much as I would have liked, great data thank you!
how are your bills for summer cooling months?
@@InsidiousDr9 I don't have good numbers yet. It was installed at the end of August so not that many hot days. The system has 3x the cooling capacity of my old conventional AC so it cools well, just don't know how power usage compares.
@@davidstewart1153 - do you have any sort of roof over the outside unit to cover it from rain/snow?
I just finished installing a 4 ton ACiQ heat pump in my home, and like you I only have 1500 sq ft (no basement though). I placed it where my previous AC condenser was, but it's sitting out in the elements so it gets rained on and will get snowed on. While reading through the install manual it said to have some sort of shelter over the outdoor unit to prevent it from being rained or snowed upon - after learning about defrost cycles this makes more sense for when it gets really cold outside (ie below freezing w/active snow).
Finally, have you measured the temperature at the vents inside your home when the heat is on? I just bought a thermometer to measure my numbers. It produces adequate heat so far when at freezing outside, but the air temp doesn't seem as warm as my old gas furnace was (though at 84,000 BTU's it was ridiculously overbuilt for my home). Also, my thermostat isn't requesting full heat from the heat pump anyway, so I assume it can produce hotter heat if needed. That being said, looking through the manual it seems like I can make it more aggressive by flipping some DIP switches, if I want. Though, since I'm using a 24v thermostat and not the thermostat it came with I may be losing out on some features, it seems.
Sorry for the word vomit! I just want to pick your brain.
@@crxtodd16 I saw the price of manufactured shelter things and decided to build my own this summer. Then I can add wind and shade protection too. I wrapped and covered the lineset with plastic covers used for DIY minisplits. I haven't measured the duct air temperature but it doesn't feel as warm as the gas furnace. I was told 95 degrees by the installer.
Demystifying modern heating systems!
You are getting too vague...show us the heat load at the temperatures you were getting. Then show us the performance chart for the unit you installed.
Good suggestion for a video I’ll keep this in mind when I have time. They had another propane stove heat source for the upstairs floor (above the heat pump) in their addition, so it’s primarily for their basement and upstairs because of how it communicates with the upstairs through the stairway and two floor vents. Basement is total around 800-1,000’ total house is around 2,600’ with about 2,000’ effectively above grade since the “basement” is like a walkout since it’s on a hill.
Fun game - take a shot every time he says defrost! :D
Thank you but can you now do a video on how this heats? Considering I set my AC at 65 I would like to know the actual heating capabilities of this unit!
That’s what the video was about was heating capacity at low ambient conditions. Do you mean air conditioning capacity?
I do similar contents in Chinese but in text and image, not video. The thing that I really want to know is why isn't there a lot of contents from you guys look inside the unit, to discuss or review the parts that its made of. They can vary dramaticly and effect how well it performs or how will the end user feel. We have a lot review contents talking about the part, we measure how big are the coils, we show the displacement volume of compressor, we show if there is EVI, are they using bldc motor or EXV. Also, most Chinese brands offer low temp heat pumps domestically as well, where its mostly 4kw heat @ -20c outside 18c inside with cop of 2, or air to water heat pump in various sizes with outside air -20c flow 55c with cop of roughly 1.8 at 172liter/h flow rate for every kw of heat.
If cost is no object, and there's plenty of room for a horizontal installation of coils, do you recommend ground-source heat pumps over air source?
www.thegeoguy.com/dont-do-this/
I would do Geo in a cold climate where Air source can’t keep up as well. Air source is typically fine above 0F to 10F, there’s products that work. If you’re doing Geothermal though as the guy in the article talks about I highly recommend vertical drilling. Keep in mind we’re new to the geothermal space but the drilling company we work with only does vertical loops because of the reasons outlined in the article. The tax credit is 30% on geo with no cap so that part is awesome
@@TheHVACDopeShow - We have a 10 acre property, but it's sandy soil and the link you provided suggests a vertical installation would be more effective. Thank you.
Remember that before you get a geothermal system installed you really need to make sure you have an abundance of companies that can potentially service or ideally, many decades later, replace the units.
Many people opt for the Geothermals but get one contractor and never have anyone that can regularly check up on them. Which should be something you think about before pulling the trigger in it.
@@AJ-ox8xy - If these systems were not becoming more and more popular, I would be concerned about that. Twenty years from now, the costs will be lower, the efficiencies higher, and the availability of qualified service even better, because both air-source and ground-source geothermal are simply superior options for heating and cooling.
Will I receive the federal tax credit on a new construction install ?
I believe the answer is no, only retrofit
If I had known about the defrost cycle where I have no heat for the home, I would never have bought a heat pump. I regret my purchase. I prefer gas furnace.
Which heat pump do you have? This can be adjusted in settings… you can adjust this power on auxiliary heat during the defrost cycle if you have auxiliary heat strips (which you should in a cold climate with an air handler)
I’ve never been in someone house with a heat pump that was comfortable. They alway complain about electricity cost. Maybe these newer systems are better.
The newer heat pumps are absolutely better than what you're referring to. The old ones basically didn't work below about 35 degrees, Farenheit.
Yeah night and day difference. Radiant in floor heat or baseboard hydronics is the most comfortable but you don’t get humidification options like you do with a forced air furnace or heat pump. We installed forced air just so we could have a humidifier because it’s so dry
I find heating the room with hot air is very uncomfortable. How some people settle for that blows my mind.
I agree, They settle because they have never lived with radiant floor heat. Once they have actually experienced floor heat, there is no going back.
Most snobbish shit I've heard in a minute lol
@@jameswood8517 Not snobbish, just fact.
Some like to humidify and filter the indoor air...radiant systems are limited and require additional systems to provide these functions.
@@johnnybarbar7435 I never heard from a client that they want to filter the air. You need to humidify the air once you turn on the furnace.
I unsubscrbed, you repeat yourself and talk too much about nothing. Just give facts, maybe have some notes to keep on track. You just wore me down by the third part of
aciQ video.
Valid feedback… some people enjoy it but I agree I can get verbose / “rant”a little on some of the unscripted videos. No worries hope it was helpful
the question is how many btu is the unit and how many square feet are they heating
2600’ for the house, basement is 800-1000’ and the basement drafts to the rest of the house via two floor vents and a stairwell. 2 ton so it’s 24k btu~ heat output at 100% capacity is 29,000 Btu so when it derates with ambient temp drops it’s still putting out a good amount of heat