I take that as a compliment😂. The floor jack weight rating is way above what it will ever lift in this case as the car weighs less than what one jack is rated for. Also many brand name tool companies buy the same cheap jack from the same company in china just in their color and with their name on it. I have had one of those jacks for many years already and it still works 100%. Thank You for watching👍
I appreciate your concern. Unfortunately Jack stands don’t work on soft ground. And they don’t allow for the vehicle body to be raised and lowered. Many people consider a two post lift safe, even without using the mechanical locks, but most two post lifts use only a single hydraulic cylinder. If it fails the lift comes down. Using multiple floor jacks means multiple cylinders have to fail. Putting blocks under the wheels is safer than anything.
This is fantastic. I see that bought this two years ago with 200k in your other fantastic video, how long did you get out of this till you needed a new drive unit. When did the problem start showing itself and did you have to make the repair right away or could you nurse it along for a while? I love knowing that you can swap the drive units yourself if you're so inclined. I didn't know it was diy possible. Drive unit failure was something from detering me from getting a high mileage one but now i feel differently because you're a hero
We drove about 10k miles before the drive unit failed. It's an inverter failure and left us stranded just a few miles from home. Towed it home with my truck, just using a tow strap. So no way to nurse this one along. But we had also a contactor fault which resulted in limited power availability. That fault popped up about 3k miles before the inverter failure. The two issues are not connected in any way. We drove with contacter fault as the limit initially was above 200kW but over time dropped to 160kW and during long drives could drop to about 100kW. But it was always drivable without even noticing the power limitation unless you wanted the Tesla acceleration experience🤣. There are many things one can repair on these Teslas. Now that service mode access is available in all Teslas it has become even easier. Before you had to call Tesla and make them send you a software reinstall, now you just request it in service mode. All cars regardless of brand or powertrain have the potential to of issues. One gets lucky the next one don't🤣 You just never know when buying used. The risk of a high mileage EV is lower than ICE. Engine failure(ICE) or Drive Unit failure(EV) same thing. Auto trans in ICE and battery pack repair in EV, same thing. We have many more resources now than just a couple years ago for repair information and parts for Teslas. For me, it may not always be a Tesla but for sure electric. Thank You for watching👍
There are a few things that are done to prevent any high-voltage coming out of the battery pack. Inside the battery pack are two contactors ( large relays ), these prevent any electricity from coming out of the pack when the car is shut down. The electronics do monitor these contactors and a fault code is triggered if they don’t properly open or close. So first step is making sure there is no such fault code. The next two things are disconnecting the fireman’s loop and disconnecting the 12V battery ground. By doing this the previously mentioned contractors can not close anymore because the electronics got the signal of the open circuit in the fireman’s loop and there is no power on the 12V system anymore. The 12V power from the low voltage (12V) battery is required to close the contactors. The last step is verifying there is no high voltage at the drive unit, by removing the cap over the HV connection and using a voltmeter to measure voltage on those wires. At that point that should be a 0V reading. If it is not a 0V reading then there is something else wrong that needs repaired first, in general it would have to be malfunctioning contactors. That usually throws a code and would have been noticed in step one. Overall working with electric vehicles is is less dangerous than working on ICE vehicles. I got burned many times by hot engines, exhausts, hot oil and coolant, V-belts, serpentine belts and timing belts can be challenging to for fingers lol. All these things don’t exist on EVs.
Go to service.tesla.com scroll down and you’ll find free access to service and parts manuals and you can subscribe to toolbox for just a day at $165 I think. There are longer subscription options as well.
Very informative. Would love to see a side shot to see what sort of lift angle you need. I was thinking of a slightly different technique leaving wheels on but this has been very helpful.
The angles were kinda given by the ground. I just supported the drive unit as I lowered the car somewhat parallel to ground. Getting it supported evenly that I could remove the bolts without it dropping/falling. Wheels on may work if you lift the car high enough. You would have to remove the wheels at first, to remove the brake calipers, and the bolts that hold the strut. Then you would have to lift the car extremely high, which is probably not possible with floor jacks, to roll the drive unit out from underneath the car. One problem may be the center of gravity. If there is more weight in the front or behind the center of the wheel drive unit will want to tip in that direction. I just went outside real quick to take a look at the drive unit, and how it sits in the subframe. The motor and inverter part of the drive unit sits behind, way behind, the center of the wheel. So it will definitely drop down on the backside. Which would require you to support that somehow with something that rolls as well, so you could roll it out. Please let me know how you got it out. Thanks
@@RMTFamily Thanks for the prompt and informative reply. I realise now leaving wheels on probably causes more issues than it solves. I think a pallet truck, in my case, would be pretty handy as you say. It certainly is a doable job without a 2 post lift as you have proven. Keep up the good work and be safe.
There is nothing to reset. Request a software update(same software, re-install) in service mode and that will recognize the other drive unit. That’s all I have done for the drive unit as well as for the battery pack and other components that I have replaced.
@@mazhariqbal5106 I hope I'm not to late. Put the vehicle into service mode. There you can request the software update. Most of the time it will only take a few minutes and you should see the same notification on the screen as with any software update. Just in case, in this video show how to put it in service mode. You will see a different menu than this, but same way to get in. czcams.com/video/TMbOsoq24gc/video.html
@@RMTFamily nope u r not to late u r the best thank you again. Last question did you have to Refill your ac line with Freon after this. I was reading somewhere where we need to but u didn’t mention it so not sure.
@@mazhariqbal5106 No, no A/C line was disconnected during the swap. No A/C line is going to the drive unit. The coolant lines were disconected and some coolant is lost. Also depending on the drive unit you put in, it may have some or no coolant in it. The coolant system needs to bleed air out of the it. If you have Tesla Toolbox then you can activate the bleeding process in there. Without Toolbox make sure to fill the coolant reservoir to the max and drive the car around the block a few times. Just in case have some coolant with you so you can top off if needed while driving. It will eventually bleed all the air out of the system over time. just keep checking it daily for a week or two and top off to max as needed. Now all that said, there are new functions in the Service Menu (haven't looked in a while), there maybe a coolant system bleed function now on these "classics".
Impressive, thanks for sharing.
Man, you have ALOT of trust with those harbor freight jacks. Balls of steel 😂
I take that as a compliment😂.
The floor jack weight rating is way above what it will ever lift in this case as the car weighs less than what one jack is rated for.
Also many brand name tool companies buy the same cheap jack from the same company in china just in their color and with their name on it. I have had one of those jacks for many years already and it still works 100%.
Thank You for watching👍
This guy is “Hard” he did everything himself!
Most would have a helper
I can only have a lot of respect for you doing this outside on a slope in the woods. Kudos 😃
Thank you. Sometimes you got to what you got to do🤣🤣
Wow you really need Jack stands please use them next time
I appreciate your concern. Unfortunately Jack stands don’t work on soft ground. And they don’t allow for the vehicle body to be raised and lowered.
Many people consider a two post lift safe, even without using the mechanical locks, but most two post lifts use only a single hydraulic cylinder. If it fails the lift comes down. Using multiple floor jacks means multiple cylinders have to fail. Putting blocks under the wheels is safer than anything.
Nicely done! Thanks for posting it!
Thank you for watching it👍
They always make it look so easy on CZcams LOL. Love the diy look forward to part 2.
If I can do it, anybody can do it.
Looks safe to me. No hydraulic ever loose pressure.
No mechanical thing ever breaks. No jack stand ever collapsed.
This is fantastic. I see that bought this two years ago with 200k in your other fantastic video, how long did you get out of this till you needed a new drive unit. When did the problem start showing itself and did you have to make the repair right away or could you nurse it along for a while?
I love knowing that you can swap the drive units yourself if you're so inclined. I didn't know it was diy possible.
Drive unit failure was something from detering me from getting a high mileage one but now i feel differently because you're a hero
We drove about 10k miles before the drive unit failed. It's an inverter failure and left us stranded just a few miles from home. Towed it home with my truck, just using a tow strap. So no way to nurse this one along. But we had also a contactor fault which resulted in limited power availability. That fault popped up about 3k miles before the inverter failure. The two issues are not connected in any way. We drove with contacter fault as the limit initially was above 200kW but over time dropped to 160kW and during long drives could drop to about 100kW. But it was always drivable without even noticing the power limitation unless you wanted the Tesla acceleration experience🤣.
There are many things one can repair on these Teslas. Now that service mode access is available in all Teslas it has become even easier. Before you had to call Tesla and make them send you a software reinstall, now you just request it in service mode.
All cars regardless of brand or powertrain have the potential to of issues. One gets lucky the next one don't🤣 You just never know when buying used. The risk of a high mileage EV is lower than ICE. Engine failure(ICE) or Drive Unit failure(EV) same thing. Auto trans in ICE and battery pack repair in EV, same thing. We have many more resources now than just a couple years ago for repair information and parts for Teslas.
For me, it may not always be a Tesla but for sure electric.
Thank You for watching👍
Also great video thanks
Thank you.
Is there a way yet for us to convert our 85 to a p85? I’m interested in a sport drive unit swap but not sure how programming works
My main concern would be disconnecting the high-voltage wires, how do you know 100% you’re not gonna get shocked
There are a few things that are done to prevent any high-voltage coming out of the battery pack. Inside the battery pack are two contactors ( large relays ), these prevent any electricity from coming out of the pack when the car is shut down. The electronics do monitor these contactors and a fault code is triggered if they don’t properly open or close. So first step is making sure there is no such fault code. The next two things are disconnecting the fireman’s loop and disconnecting the 12V battery ground. By doing this the previously mentioned contractors can not close anymore because the electronics got the signal of the open circuit in the fireman’s loop and there is no power on the 12V system anymore. The 12V power from the low voltage (12V) battery is required to close the contactors. The last step is verifying there is no high voltage at the drive unit, by removing the cap over the HV connection and using a voltmeter to measure voltage on those wires. At that point that should be a 0V reading. If it is not a 0V reading then there is something else wrong that needs repaired first, in general it would have to be malfunctioning contactors. That usually throws a code and would have been noticed in step one.
Overall working with electric vehicles is is less dangerous than working on ICE vehicles. I got burned many times by hot engines, exhausts, hot oil and coolant, V-belts, serpentine belts and timing belts can be challenging to for fingers lol. All these things don’t exist on EVs.
How do you get access to toolbox?
Go to service.tesla.com scroll down and you’ll find free access to service and parts manuals and you can subscribe to toolbox for just a day at $165 I think. There are longer subscription options as well.
Trevor from GTA V @work 😂
😂😂😂😂😂
Very informative. Would love to see a side shot to see what sort of lift angle you need. I was thinking of a slightly different technique leaving wheels on but this has been very helpful.
The angles were kinda given by the ground. I just supported the drive unit as I lowered the car somewhat parallel to ground. Getting it supported evenly that I could remove the bolts without it dropping/falling.
Wheels on may work if you lift the car high enough. You would have to remove the wheels at first, to remove the brake calipers, and the bolts that hold the strut. Then you would have to lift the car extremely high, which is probably not possible with floor jacks, to roll the drive unit out from underneath the car. One problem may be the center of gravity. If there is more weight in the front or behind the center of the wheel drive unit will want to tip in that direction. I just went outside real quick to take a look at the drive unit, and how it sits in the subframe. The motor and inverter part of the drive unit sits behind, way behind, the center of the wheel. So it will definitely drop down on the backside. Which would require you to support that somehow with something that rolls as well, so you could roll it out. Please let me know how you got it out. Thanks
@@RMTFamily Thanks for the prompt and informative reply. I realise now leaving wheels on probably causes more issues than it solves. I think a pallet truck, in my case, would be pretty handy as you say. It certainly is a doable job without a 2 post lift as you have proven. Keep up the good work and be safe.
How are you going to reset the immobilizer on the replacement drive unit?
There is nothing to reset. Request a software update(same software, re-install) in service mode and that will recognize the other drive unit. That’s all I have done for the drive unit as well as for the battery pack and other components that I have replaced.
@@RMTFamilyhow do you request a software update. Please get back to me before I get stuck lol thanks
@@mazhariqbal5106 I hope I'm not to late. Put the vehicle into service mode. There you can request the software update. Most of the time it will only take a few minutes and you should see the same notification on the screen as with any software update. Just in case, in this video show how to put it in service mode. You will see a different menu than this, but same way to get in.
czcams.com/video/TMbOsoq24gc/video.html
@@RMTFamily nope u r not to late u r the best thank you again. Last question did you have to
Refill your ac line with Freon after this. I was reading somewhere where we need to but u didn’t mention it so not sure.
@@mazhariqbal5106 No, no A/C line was disconnected during the swap. No A/C line is going to the drive unit. The coolant lines were disconected and some coolant is lost. Also depending on the drive unit you put in, it may have some or no coolant in it. The coolant system needs to bleed air out of the it. If you have Tesla Toolbox then you can activate the bleeding process in there. Without Toolbox make sure to fill the coolant reservoir to the max and drive the car around the block a few times. Just in case have some coolant with you so you can top off if needed while driving. It will eventually bleed all the air out of the system over time. just keep checking it daily for a week or two and top off to max as needed. Now all that said, there are new functions in the Service Menu (haven't looked in a while), there maybe a coolant system bleed function now on these "classics".