Canon AE-1 Manual 2: Operation | Take a Photo, Double Exposure, Batteries, Lenses, Metering, & Flash
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Canon's AE-1 35mm film SLR introduced many people to photography. Though only made for two years, the AE-1 has a place as one of the most widely used and recognizable cameras ever made. This compact, light camera offered a substantial feature array at a competitive, entry-level price. The Canon AE-1 also introduced a new tier of Canon mid-market cameras to the world and introduced automatic, shutter-priority shooting as the default option to the camera market.
Canon achieved design optimization through the AE-1's computer-designed modular structure, computer designs that reduced the parts required by about 300 pieces, and plastic body and operational components that cut costs and weight. The construction has led to this camera having a considerable usable life, but the plastic components wear more easily than metal and can break in less time.
The first-ever CPU-controlled camera, the AE-1 features automatic exposure (hence the name AE) and metering that took between 0.001 and 0.04 seconds, depending on available light.
The precursor to the Canon AE-1 Program, the AE-1 has somewhat better construction, especially with the metal base plate instead of a plastic base plate, and somewhat simpler interface.
The Canon AE-1 has two weaknesses, however. The battery door on these can break and, as of this videos' recording, they are increasingly hard to replace. Also, the computers, called the flex, are starting to fail with age. I see around 300 of these a year, sometimes more, and two years ago 3% had failed flexes. This year, more than 10% have had failed flexes. The trend seems to indicate that the AE-1 computer systems are reaching their lifespan. Unfortunately, once that part fails, the repair is expensive enough that buying a new camera is cheaper.
Also, the AE-1 is not an ideal student camera. Designed primarily for automatic shooting with a manual mode that largely feels like an afterthought, the Canon AE-1 isn't the ideal student camera. That said, if you are a student with one this camera can be used in manual mode to help you learn the art and practice of film photography to the greatest extent practical.
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Video Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:15
Changing the Battery in the Canon AE-1: 0:30
Mounting and Removing Lenses from the Canon AE-1: 3:25
Loading and Unloading Film from the Canon AE-1: 4:52
Flash use with the Canon AE-1: 9:46
Stop-down Metering with the Canon-AE1 and FL Lenses: 13:10
Using the Canon AE-1 in Manual Mode: 16:47
How to take a Picture with the Canon AE-1: 18:44
Double Exposures with the Canon AE-1: 19:39
Basic Flash Techniques with the Canon AE-1: 25:20
Like this Video and Subscribe to the David Hancock Channel: 29:59
Link to Video 1:
• Canon AE-1 Manual 1: I...
References:
www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/c...
global.canon/en/c-museum/prod...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/C...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_AE-1 - Jak na to + styl
I love how candid the narration is.
Thank you!
I just got the AE-1 and your videos have been so helpful and insightful. Thank you for taking the time to produce these! They are supremely informative, I will be saving and rewatching again and again.
Thank you!
So happy I found this series, you’re the man!
Thank you!
Always great videos and tutorials David. Your teaching method is to the point and easy to understand. I have learned a great deal. I have an AE-1 that I plan on replacing the light seals (with yarn, the adhesive back foam is really difficult to place in the channel easily), and 2 AE-1P. Film has made a comeback. Keep up the great work!! Much appreciated!
Thank you, Robert!
Wathing your camera movies since 2 yr. Still facinated!
Thank you!
The way you motivate technique against the theory of operation of the camera is phenomenal. I especially liked your explanation of how the shutter curtain works and why it limits the maximum allowable shutter speed for flash sync. Kudos!
Thank you!
Great video! Can’t wait to try the double exposure on my newly acquired AE-1!
Thank you and very nice! It's a good technique to learn to use well.
Really great videos! Thanks so much!
Thank you!
You explained everything perfectly, thank you 🌹
Thank you!
Awesome tutorial. I have owned this camera since the early 80s and didn't even know about the double exposure trick. Thanks!
Thank you!
Very helpful and clair explanation. Thanks a lot for sharing 🙂
Thank you!
The double exposure explanation, (en lighten ing), thank you, great video.
Thank you!
Thank you
Thank you!
Hey David! Your videos always cover everything! Please keep on doing these great videos. I got one question, if it is not asking too much. I have a AE-1 and a Nikon FM2. I'd like to use some m42 lenses. Wich adapter should I buy if I want (and can) focus to infinity without any glass altering the quality of my optics? Thank you!
Thank you, Pedro!
For the Nikon, there are no M42 infinity adapters without glass because the register distance on Nikon is longer than with M42. Canon FD should have adapters but I'm not certain as I've never looked for one. Realistically, if there's no glass, any adapter will work.
Very informative and detailed video - thank you! I just have one question regarding double exposures- after exposing the first picture in a good way (with a smaller amount of light) do I have to cut off the light on the second one as well?
Thank you! Yes. The total exposure time of the two images should (roughly) equal a single proper exposure. So both shots would need to be either half the shutter speed (which means twice as fast of a shutter speed) or one stop smaller on the aperture scale.
ive been wanting to get into photography for years now and i just got one of these for 40 dollars at some random local store and surprisingly its in good shape everything was really confusing though but stuff like this helps a lot tysm!!
Thank you and that's an awesome find!
Hi, I came across your channel and had a question too! I've been struggling to find the reason behind red flares on my rolls and have been wondering if changing lenses mid-roll be a problem in any way? I'm not quite sure how the mechanics work and if removing the lens while the film is in will affect it.
Thanks so much for your content!
Is the red flare a vertical line on the images? If yes, then there's a light leak in your camera's light seals. If the flare is in the exact same place on each frame, then the leak is somewhere between where the film exits the cassette and where it's taken up on the spool. If it's in different places then it's on the door hinge. I have a video on replacing light seals with cotton yarn. It's a quick process and should fix your issue.
Great info! Just what I was looking for. I have a question about the flash. I have a Canon Speedlight flash 155A and it doesn't have the option to tilt up or to the side. Just straight, so it would bounce straight to the subject? I haven't used it so I don't know how it would look like. Also for the Aperture do I set it to A? and shutter speed to B? . I plan to take it for Night photography. Thanks!!
Thank you! So for the 155A, I'd suggest buying a PC flash cable to hot shoe adapter (probably $5-7) and then a flash bar (around $3). Make sure that the cable to hot shoe adapter has a 1/4-20 socket (standard tripod socket) in the base. Then get a flash bar with two 1/4-20 screws. You can then place the flash off to the side and articulate it. The flash then just plugs into the PC port to the right (when looking at the camera) of the lens mount.
This video is very helpful thank you! Plz don’t delete lol
Thank you!
Hey there, another great vid! My iso ring won’t budge- any ideas what I can do here?
Thank you!
Odds are it's dirty. You can try dialing the shutter dial all the way in the direction you want to turn it and then lifting the ISO ring and trying. If it moves then, the issue is likely dirt in the ring and it's just gonna be a bit fidgety unless the dirt works its way out.
HI! Thank you for this video as it helped me alot since I’m very new to this whole thing!
I do have a question though, is it normal to have the light meter fluctuate fast ?? Everytime I look through my view finder it’s either at the very top (where the 22 number is) or at the bottom (where 12 is). I was following everything you mentioned when you were explaining how to shoot manually but my light meter does not necessarily stay on a number. I just got this camera so I’m not sure if its broken or if I’m just doing it wrong 😥
That is not normal. That's a sign that the electronic components are starting to fail. Definitely return it or exchange it for one that works.
Thank you for this video very informative. So if I am shooting in manual and let's say I want to shoot wide open at 1.8 and I look into the camera and the light meter is pointing to 1.8 it will be properly exposed?
Thank you! And correct. The light meter will tell you which aperture to use in manual mode based on your shutter speed; it will also tell you which aperture it is going to use in auto mode based on your shutter speed.
@@DavidHancock thank you!
17:33 i have a question about manual mode. if i use f/4 for the aperture and 1/60 shutter speed but the needle say is f/8 for the correct exposure but i dont want to change the aperture to f/8, do i need to change the shutter speed to +2 stop 1/250 or -2 stop 1/30 for correct exposure?
1/250th. You're shooting at an apperture two stops faster than recommended for your current shutter speed so you need to cut two stops of light through the shutter, so it's -2, 1/250th. (The plus and minus in your question are flipped, which is easy to do as this part of the terminology is very confusing.)
I still looking how to use proper that one small grey button on the left of the lenses. I’ve heard somewhere that it is an exposure compensation but how does it work I couldn’t find
I think I touched on that briefly in the first video, maybe this one, I forget for sure, but in a nutshell it's used when you and your subject are in shade and the scene behind you is much brighter.
Hi Dave
I just recently got an AE-1 and I’m trying to underhanded the light meter better. I read the manual but it doesn’t go too much in depth with it. I was wondering if you could help me.
So from my understanding, this camera bases it’s aperture on the shutter speed selected (the little needle going to numbers depending on the shot etc).
Now, doing it automatically will of course select the proper aperture for the best and accurate exposure right? This is where I get a bit confused.
Let’s say I’m taking a portrait shot of someone, would I have to adjust my shutter speed to get that depth of field effect or my aperture for that? And once I do select the proper shutter speed, will the light meter know I want it to be a portrait type photo?
AKA does the light meter have to work so that it must be in the middle? (Like a K1000) or is it just strictly an aperture recommendation meter (that will tell you if it’s underexposed or overexposed with the blinking light and red bar)
I’m just a bit confused since I’ve used a K1000 before and the way it works is you have to have the needle in the middle to get the balanced out exposure. I’m trying to best figure out how the AE-1 light meter behaves.
So you've got the gist of it, yes. The only correction I have is that the camera has no idea what type of photo you want to take. It's up to you to pick the shutter speed that gives you the aperture that you want with this camera, yes.
I habe used an ae1 for about a year now. I am pleased with the camera and the results but have a small issue. Maybe you have an idea on how to solve it. My iso dial keeps turning when I change the shutter speed or wind the film to the next frame. It happens quite often, and if I am not paying attention I shoot the film at a too high iso, I.e. underexpose the film. Any suggestions on preventing the dial to turn.
That's not supposed to do that. Sounds like the winder is too tight on there. It probably needs a repair. I used www.SLR35.com for my AE-1 repairs.
I have the black lens and it does in fact click into place
Thank you!
Regarding the double exposure: Does it work this way on the canon as 1 program as well? I have tried to press the shutter button again after the first exposure, but nothing happens when I do. I’m shooting in manual if that makes a difference.
Same process, yes.
great video...thanks for that! I just gone one in the mail today...everything seems to work, but I can't turn off the red light diode underneath the shutter button, regardless if it is in lock position, S or selftimer... I think that would drain the battery faster than necessary...?
Thank you!
For that light, I have an ebook about this camera now that, I think, addresses that (there's a link in the description if you're interested in it and learning about the other known electronics issues.)
For your issue, I'd first try to remove the lens, make sure that the DoF preview is NOT pressed inward, set the lens to "A" or the green circle (depending on your lens), advance the film if needed, re-mount the lens and see if it goes away.
@@DavidHancock thank you so much David for taking the time to. reply...I have tried all of the above, but light is still on red, regardless of the position of the lever...and it also has drained the battery which was new yesterday and when doing the battery check, needle is almost at 5.6 and shutter won't fire...I think I will send that camera back...or do you think it could be an easy fix?...Happy to get your ebook once I know that I keep the camera or replace it with another one....
Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly. I'm automatic mode, to have a properly exposed frame all I need to do is select a shutter speed that keep my light meter needle in the center? The needle dropping low or high would indicate under exposure or overexposure?
Actually, it's even simpler. All you need to do is pick a shutter speed and not have the needle above or below the numbers. The numbers will tell you the apperture that your lens will be at for the photo.
@@DavidHancock Thank you got the reply. It's a little hard to trust the camera without my handheld light meter. Fantastic video, I always learn something new
19:31
Just to be sure, as I am a bit new to this. If you select the automatic mode and select a shutter speed, the campera will select the correct aperture for the selected shutter speed, right? (Not a new shutter speed)
That's correct. With the AE-1, the camera is designed to provide automatic aperture selection based on your preferred shutter speed.
What are some specific small flash i can add to the pc port? And once it’s in, can I choose when to enable flash or not without taking it off?
I don't have a specific make or model flash, any of them will do as long as they have manual power controls. With the PC port, the only way to prevent the flash from firing is by turning it off or unplugging it.
hi david! i just got my own canon ae-1 and i noticed my film won’t advance. like when i use the lever nothing happens and i can only do the film from the inside. i’m not sure how to fix this problem?
A couple quick questions.
1- Do you have a good battery in it?
2- What do you mean you can only do the film from the inside?
Hey! Great video, I just had a question. My camera keeps blinking a red M light and a red dot while in manual mode. I can’t seem to figure out how to turn them off. Is this normal?
Thank you and in manual mode the M is normal. The red dot should indicate there's not enough light with your settings, IIRC.
Hi, great video by the way!
Question: When operating in Manual-Mode, I can see the aperture closing whenever I take a picture. But in Automatic Mode, the Aperture does not move at all. What is the reason for that?
Most likely lighting. If the aperture doesn't need to stop down then it won't. Try it pointed at an interior light, 1/60, 400 ISO. With a bright indoor light, the aperture should stop down to about 5.6.
@@DavidHancock thank you so much! The automatic aperture totally works, it just needed more light as you said. Perfect!
David, how are you? Excellent video! I need your advice. I bought this camera a week ago to get into the world of analog cameras and learn how to use them, as I'm young, I'm 25 years old. However, I'm having a problem: the meter needle is always at the bottom and the red light comes on. I've tried everything: cleaning the camera, playing with the shutter speed and aperture settings, but the needle still stays at the bottom. Do you know how I can fix this?
Thank you in advance and have a great day
Thank you! I wish I had good news for you. What you're describing is the characteristic of a dead electronic board. There is no repair for that, unfortunately. I would return the camera while you're in the return window and order from a different seller.
@@DavidHancockThanks David for the answer. I can't return it because I bought it from the Marketplace so it will be an ornament :( However, do you think I can shoot the photos since the shutter and aperture work? and I try to measure the exposure with an app on my phone
I have a question! Shooting in manual mode (aperture priority)... let's just say I want to shoot f8 but the meter needle is pointing to f4. When I change the aperture to f4 the needle stays pointing at f4. Will this give me an underexposed photo as the aim is to have the needle in the centre (f5.6)? Or am I meant to be changing the shutter speed so that the needle is in the centre?
AKA, should the needle always be in the centre to have a correctly exposed photo? Hope that makes sense thank you for the great video!
For this camera when shooting with manual apperture control, set the apperture to the number that the needle points to. So if it says f/4 and you're at f/4, your exposure should be correct (assuming you don't have the sun in your frame or a similar situation that massively alters the meter reading.) If the needle pointed at f/4 and your set the lens too f/5.6, your image would be one stop underexposed. Basically the meter is telling you what the apperture should be for your selected shutter speed, film, and lighting.
@@DavidHancock brilliant, thank you for your help!
@@DavidHancock this answers so many questions. I was used to the K1000 with having to always keep the needle in the middle so using an AE-1 was confusing for me
Hello there david. How are you? I have some questions about the double exposure.
1) you said that both of the exposure must be underexposed by one stop. Do we need to set both the shutter and aperture to one stop faster, or just either one. I got confused.
2) after we take the dead frame, (when you said that only partial of the frame was advanced) we will advance to the next frame. Will it cause the cause the film to be 1 lesser exposure? Because it is blank.
Thank you david. Great video btw.
Hi, Zakaria,
1- Just set one under by a stop. Either or the shutter or aperture.
2- Nope. As long as you restore your settings so that you aren't shooting underexposed one stop, your subsequent frames will be properly exposed.
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock thank you so much for the reply
Hey I’ve been using the ae-1 for a while, I want to upgrade to a better 35mm film format camera to regards on construction. I was maybe thinking if the Nikon lens are sharper and overall better than FD canon lenses. Do you think they are? What would you recommend for me to upgrade to? Maybe canon F-1? Or Nikon F2? Thanks
I would say six one way, half-dozen the other for lenses. Some of the FD lenses are amazing. Some of the Nikon lenses are amazing. And some of each are mediocre or fine. If you want to save some money and stick with the FD lens system, especially if you own a few lenses, look at the original Canon F-1. If you can find one modified to take modern batteries, it's the best Canon FD mount camera, in my opinion. Other great FD cameras would be the A-1 and the T70 and T90. The AT-1 is also a bit more robust than the AE-1.
For Nikon, if you do decide to switch systems, look at the FM, FM2, FE, FE2, and the F3 or F4 as definite steps up from the AE-1.
@@DavidHancock Thank you! I only have the canon 50mm 1.8 the newer one (not the one you show in the video) so changing systems to Nikon wouldn’t be a problem. I’m also thinking about switching to a rangefinder like the canon p (then after a Leica m3 lol) maybe if the slr’s don’t convince me. But if I were going to stick with Fd lens’ what are the sharpest they made? And for Nikon as well. And out of all the sharpest of both which you prefer. Thanks!
@@tigerhunter8878 All the high-end FD lenses are good. Singer that I particularly like are the 50mm 1.8 and 1.4, 28mm 2.8, 35mm 2.8, and 135mm 2.8 and 2.0.
Ohhh noooo I just shot a roll of film with my new flash attachment on my ae 1 and I had the camera set to above 1/60 to a higher shutter speed. Is it not going to turn out?? I wish I saw this video before😭
Well, yeah, they probably won't be fully exposed frames. I have good news. You'll never make that mistake again. :D
The advance lever will not fully crank as well if i dont have a battery in it?
The advance lever will not go until the shutter has been fired and the shutter requires a battery to fire, yes.
How do I remove a camera strap? Mine has the black plastic pieces on the metal triangles for the straps and it's in the way to remove my strap
If you don't like the strap, you can cut it off. If you do, just keep working the connection at the end until you can feed it through the clips and split rings.
The video kind of confused me on the light metering part and I may have been taking pictures a different way the entire time😂 For example I'm outside on a sunny day taking a picture with ISO 400 film and I want to use aperture f/2.8 and shutter speed 125/s I just change the ASA lever on the camera until I get 5.6 on the cameras light meter. I never knew you were supposed to leave it at 400ASA if using iso 400 film, but all of my pictures come out exposed normally.
There is some exposure tolerance with both black and white and C-41 films, so my guess is that the shots are way over and the negatives are very dense. So give this a try with some film and leave the ISO the same throughout the roll. I would think that the images will have a better tonal range and contrast profile.
Can you still shoot without a flash with this camera I don’t have one and I don’t have the light meter
Yes you can. Just follow all the guidance in this video except the flash section. This camera has a built-in light meter, and unless it's failed then it will work if you have a battery for the camera. Is your camera's light meter not working?
This may be a dumb question but, will the camera still take nice photos if the light meter doesn't work? Or is it not worth buying if that part is broken?
Not accurately. If the meter is dead don't buy it because that can't be repaired.
So what if my battery check button shows the needle a bit under 4
I might put in a new battery.
How can I turn off manual mode on my ae-1?
Simply switch the lens to "A" and then the camera will pick the best aperture based on your shutter speed selection.
I can't get my old silver ring lens on, it won't turn when I line up the red dots, any suggestions?
Which lens is it?
In general, the red dot on the silver ring ought to align with the focusing point indicator on the lens. Then on the back of the lens itself there should be a code -- a letter and some numbers -- and that should also align with the red dot on the silver ring. Then make sure you've advanced the film and that the DoF preview lever isn't engaged and, if so, it ought to mount fine.
There area handful of lenses that won't mount on this camera, but they're all old FL and R lenses and are rare.
I took my lens off the other day and a couldn't get it back on, when I had tried the ring rotated like if it was on the camera to secure itself to the camera, but since the lens wasn't on correctly the silver ring rotated and misaligned, I had to rotate the silver ring counterclockwise to be able to get it back on the camera and twist it to latch on
When I adjust the aperture am I supposed to see it open and close in front of lens ? Bc nothing happens I just hope I didn’t waste film
Nope. The aperture only closes when you take a photo. If you want to verify that the aperture works, set the aperture to f/16 and try the DoF preview button (DoF preview doesn't work with the lens in A.) If the aperture closes, you're good to go. Just set it back to A when you're done.
@@DavidHancock ok so I just did that and the aperture did close up smaller . So if I wanna shoot at 1.8 just set ring time that and when I take picture it will be set at that ?
@@herondelacerda you can, bit be sure to follow the instructions for manual shooting. It's a different technique than the standard shutter-priority the camera is designed primarily for.
@@DavidHancock oh ok I’ll try and look through your videos for more explanation
to test the meter in my canon ae1 I put iso 3200 and a speed of 1 second and it tells me that the best aperture is 1.2 and a red light lights up, all this in "A" mode, shouldn't it tell me about exposure? Does the photometer of this camera measure differently? I have a few days with her hahaha😅😅
That's concerning. That's a common symptom that the electronics on the camera have died. So take it outside on a sunny day and with the sun to your back set the ISO to 125 and shutter speed to 1/125. The aperture should indicate f/16, or something about that with the lens in A on the aperture ring. Any trading from f/11 to f/22 is fine, but the way. If it still shows the dot and f/1.2, your electronics are bad and the camera is dead. Fixing that is so expensive and complex that I don't know of a single repairman who will do it.
@@DavidHancock I followed the advice and it marks me between f2 and f2.8 will I have to measure with an external photometer? or does it affect the final result at all? 😪
@@giampiero62 If it says f/2-2.8 at 125 ISO and a 1/125th shutter speed outside in sun, then that will affect the images. That it's not giving you the red dot is good. It sounds like one of the photo cells in the meter has died. That's repairable, which is the good news. But for now, as is, your camera is overexposing images by 4-5 stops, which will definitely room the film.
Hi, where can I get that flash unit?
Any basic standard flash will work. Your local camera shop will have some options.
I was just gifted an AE-1 and I just want to confirm that I understood this correctly. With my lens locked on AE, I can choose a shutter speed and the camera will automatically use the appropriate aperture?
@@colem1177 that's correct!
@@DavidHancock would you happen to know if it’s the same for my pentax k1000. The lens on that one also has an A on it. I watched videos on the camera and no one had mentioned anything about an automatic mode
@@colem1177 on your K1000, no. That camera is manual only and if you use the lens on it in A mode none of your images will be properly exposed. The K1000 cannot accurately use the light meter when a lens is set to A.
@@DavidHancock okay thank you so much. One more question I’m so sorry. I have a tamron 28-200mm lens on my ae-1 and when I was trying to take the lens off the tiny little plastic pin that sticks out for the silver lever is held in place by broke off. The lever doesn’t work now so I just took it out. Is the lens ruined? I can still get the lens on and off, it just doesn’t lock itself in place now. Can I still use the lens on this camera or is it ruined? I was looking for repair part and couldn’t find it anywhere
@@colem1177 Hmm. That may be a lost cause for that lens. It may also not be your fault as there could have been a crack in the lens or some previous damage that made that prone to happening. The Fix Old Cameras channel will know if that's repairable, but my guess is probably not.
I just got one of these at a garage sale for 50 bucks needs a battery I think it does nothing currently
Nice find!
@@DavidHancock yes it came with a power winder a flash and three lenses
You forgot how do you use the depth of field button. Back to the manual. Am I right. You forgot.
I probably covered it in video 1 since it's a pretty simple operation.
@@DavidHancock sorry I had just watched video 1. You did mentioned it in video 2 but not in detail. Thanks anyway. It's on my Nikon d7200 too. Never use it. I just use f/stops to get the dept of field I want. You did good on your videos. Thanks you for following up. Last two years I've studied film plus and developing. Self tought. Thank goodness for CZcams and guys like you and your videos. THANKS
They sell the battery door on Amazon for twenty-one bucks.
Is it a direct replacement that requires disassembling part of the camera?
@@DavidHancock It says it comes with the tools and screws for the install.
Way to difficult and work for me. That's why I rely on my Cell Phone camera.
Film wasn't as quick and easy as cell phones, that's true.