I have zero welding knowledge/experience, but this was still interesting. Especially how you're using your hands to do things. Interesting technique. OK Google, stop texting and submit this comment.
Thank you Professor Serbu for breaking it down "Barney" style. This educational video is a great asset to those of us who are here to learn skills. Keep up the filming and I will keep watching.
Follow up after a year. I got an 80% receiver and what's left of a receiver and weldments. Hopefully I can source rhe rest of the parts for an affordable price. Still have my seen mk3 to build. But I already have everything I need for that (except maybe a better welder)
HAHA! I also frequent the KnittingGuild website! Thanks for all your great discussions there! Edited to add - when re-welding something like that steel tubing - I'd recommend putting a tack at the very edge of the metal. The two pieces are perfectly flat before you start, but shrinking from your first tack further down will always shrink and pull up the edges like that. I start my first tacks at the edges, and then get closer down toward the tube bend... Then stitch fill in between. Works for my automotive sheet metal welds.
The narration to this video is brilliant. It's super convenient that you had that random metal laying around. That thing you're welding looks like the exhaust fibulator bearing for my 1962 Mazda RX7.
The Anaheim, Azusa And Cucamonga Knitting Circle, Book Review And Gunsmithing Association? They're a fun bunch! Just don't leave the coffee pot empty, or all hell will break loose.
For a sheetmetal joint, consider the option of a countersunk lap seam / offset flush lap. This puts more base material at the joint (while leaving one side flush), and is more tolerant of minor welding imperfections. Very strong without needing to weld on the inner face.
Ironic that you're welding two pieces of tubing for some unspecified reason, using a "random piece of metal from the shop" to clamp them together (all presumably to discourage any censors from blocking complete access to your content and viewership), then you go and make a joke about taking acid and heroin last night! Perhaps this is intentional to prove some point about what censored gets censored...
I'm certified with a stick welder for work, pretty good with a mig welder,which is way easier, but I've never used a tig welder. Watching you makes me want to buy a tig machine. I've got some gocart frames & mini bikes that need tinkered with.
If you want to weld everything, have the cleanest, most precise welds, go tig. I don’t regret buying my tig welder one bit. It was expensive, but worth it to me.
Před 3 lety+2
Lovely 👌 Makes me want to try as well. Would probably burn something down though...
That's how you learn. The only sure way to avoid fire is to already know what you are doing, but it doesn't work like that. Just keep a fire extinguisher around.
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet. But when I worked in the shipyards we'd use a trick to fair up uneven metals quickly like with the issue you had there with little shelves being present. We called it a "hot tack".. we'd do it by having a hammer ready by ya side.. go ahead and boil a weld in.. and immediately after ya tack it.. whack the high side to level them out. Works great when trying to flush surfaces that don't quite need a jig or saddle n wedges
It does work great, but I can't see it being applied here because of the weird shapes and precision involved.. and hot tacks really only work when you introduce filler to weld puddle.. here it's just fusion welding and no filler..
@SwampOperator Yeah likely so. Been a long while since I said this and I'd have to watch the video again but I'll take your word for it lol. At times I'll watch random welding videos here and see folks go thru all sorts of trouble and hassle to line up plates that back in the day I'd just whack to make them act right lol, then move on to the next one. I'm not sure if it's a well known trick outside of that world or not.
Great video! The "contamination" you got when you welded the edges and next to the edge on the inside was because the edge diverted the argon gas and you had less coverage. If you adjust the flow or use a purge fixture or bigger cup shouldn't be a problem.
As long as the copper is flat and touching the steel it will always be difficult to get full penetration. In automation we put a groove underneath so that the bead will fuse together. Also you usually are better off adding a tiny amount of wire a the start and end and touch it up with a grinder. The issue with going over it and over again without adding wire to it is you are likely to cause a crack. This is against most codes on carbon steel or that reason. The wire contains deoxidizers that assist in floating the contaminants out. Also welding around corners prevents cracking later.
Clamps... Clamps everywhere... God damn without them I think we would still be in stone age. Even when I do simple work I need some third hand and Damm those small clamps are useful
I have these Korean 33 round stick mags for a Glock and they suck because the steel they used on the inside is 2 pieces from the 15 round mags and they have a shelf where the 2 pieces of steel meet half way up the mag. This shelf catches the follower and the spring all the time. So the 33 round mags are good for about 15 rounds or so, but if you get the follower below that mismatched metal seam, it catches and you can turn the mag upside down and just dump the rounds out of it like a salf shaker.
How convenient and lucky you were to have such nicely fitting square blocks of metal laying around! Slides in perfectly. The micro fireworks you had on the inside were nothing to worry about. You welded the outside without shielding gas on the inside causing some oxygen bonds and inclusions to form there. When passing over the inside, these did what they do, but you were surely not contaminating anywhere deep into the wall thickness, that's for sure. The only thing I would be (only very slightly, if at all) worried about is the potential of a hairline crack to propagate from the mating at the radius part on the top, as it appears you didn't flow weld all the way there. I think you're totally fine. You were brave to tack the sides of the sheet though.... You must trust the starting amps of your welder very much. PS. Reps disco not much your thing? PS2. I've got SW17 and SW20 for you if you want
You were so lucky to have a bit of random steel that fits perfectly inside the 2 other bits of random square tubing you were joining together. Is that part of a knitting machine? looks pretty technical. Nice job.
if you do that job again---- you can make a block that slides inside the shell---- the block would have a groove milled around it on 3 sides that would create a passage behind the weld --- and you can purge the passage with argon---- that will make the inside of the weld wet as well as the outside. No nasty scale--- and it will be a much stronger weld------
This is the best welding instructional video of this year and maybe decade... I really like the transparent tig rig cup. That's something I never saw in boilers or powerhouses as far as that goes I've never seen one in the 40+ years in construction. So weld prep IE cleaning is 90 percent of a good tig weld.. Porosity will get you if you have too much wind, or even a dirty tig wire. As well as too much of a moist environment.. I guess welding has come a long way since my retirement. Never thought of a clear cup... Sounds and looks like you are using a high frequency rig, Back welding is the ticket... Maybe you should try a 1/8 tungsten and a mini touch with a button.. Again I am probably talking out of my ass. Too much caffeine and LSD from the night before.... Will make you shake especially, if your DTs are kicking in as well.... I digress..... God bless you and your loved ones Stay Safe Godspeed
The Beverly Hillbillies was probably as popular in the UK as the US . The red hot blonde may have something to with that . Like the new content and style and must agree that these heavy block " welding fixtures" come in very handy .
Tack the ends first and put a bit of filler in .it will help you to stop blowing thru and leaveing crater crack . a small end cap for the tight spaces works great .welding was good though the way you did it👍
Some of this stuff could really use a small amount of filler, sparingly, but could still use some to reduce some of the concave profile.. I'm not dogging on your welding.. it was really smart to use the copper backing, aluminum works well too, but given a choice I'd use copper.. And for those real real tight places, a short back cap would help, and they make tig cups that are similar to a" nozzle".. I know you mentioned a mini tig rig, but sometimes the correct combo of cup and back cap will get you by
Mark, how do you find the thickness of a saw kerf, if you are putting one of the destroyed bang sticks, back together. Like prints and so forth so you can get correct dimension for that old mgun welded with original parts kit. Asking for a friend.
I always like these type of videos. Thank you Mark. I do have a question.. wouldn't you worry about heat shrinkage with the length of travel you did? Also your not adding filler? Just going over it to weld it together?
BTW, in the 80's I owned an UZI Carbine, and I really enjoyed shooting it and reloading ammo for it. I wish I could have enjoyed a more interesting version, but where I lived in the USA, it wasn't possible.
At 7:40 you made me laugh out loud. Mushrooms at a low dose have been used by software engineers in silicon valley for quite a while. If you ever do try mushrooms, start low and work your way up until you reach the desired effect. It enhances creativity and also has a lasting effect as a mood stabilizer, making it easier to deal with stress.
Wouldn’t slight beveling have resulted in greater depth? I realize you would have then needed to add filler metal. Is that something you wanted to avoid?
I've used a copper spatula made from a piece of pipe and it stopped the burnthrough and kept splatter out while doing an autobody patch. Copper is like non-stick to welding.
Just found your channel; subbed! Great work & video! When homogeneous welding; you're at the mercy of the purity of the base metals, relative to inclusions. Not exactly knowing the base composition, 309L filler is very helpful. Curious what your PPS was? Reducing your PPS will increase heat input, & thus penetration. Great video & thanks again for taking us along-
You already know this but I'll say it anyways using copper will exorb the Heat can also prevent worpage when welding. I used to use copper when I was welding up molding holes on door panels or quarter panel's or front fenders on the old vehicles. Plus you get a cleaner finished product.
This is easily the best knitting related video I have seen all day.
I tried to find that knitting forum, but I don't think I had the whole name guessed correctly.
that was a nice cross stitch you did there. i need to get me a knitting machine like that
I have zero welding knowledge/experience, but this was still interesting. Especially how you're using your hands to do things. Interesting technique. OK Google, stop texting and submit this comment.
It's stuff like this video that make me believe that Mark Serbu is probably one of the coolest cats in the business.
Love your videos... hate that YT is complete crap nowadays
I felt that way about YT until I heard the wit in these vids. Almost makes it worth it.
Thank you Professor Serbu for breaking it down "Barney" style. This educational video is a great asset to those of us who are here to learn skills. Keep up the filming and I will keep watching.
mark is my spirit animal
Amazing job! This will help with my... uh... Israeli rectangle reweld ;)
always good to have some more tips on welding general purpose rectangular tubing
Great knitting, thanks for the inspiration!
You're doing that with your HANDS!?!?
love the videos Mark. I really need to pick up one of these kits and get knitting
Follow up after a year. I got an 80% receiver and what's left of a receiver and weldments. Hopefully I can source rhe rest of the parts for an affordable price. Still have my seen mk3 to build. But I already have everything I need for that (except maybe a better welder)
@@ChevTecGroup did you end up finishing it
HAHA! I also frequent the KnittingGuild website! Thanks for all your great discussions there!
Edited to add - when re-welding something like that steel tubing - I'd recommend putting a tack at the very edge of the metal. The two pieces are perfectly flat before you start, but shrinking from your first tack further down will always shrink and pull up the edges like that.
I start my first tacks at the edges, and then get closer down toward the tube bend... Then stitch fill in between. Works for my automotive sheet metal welds.
Oh yeah, I watched the Beverley Hill Billies when I was a young man, those were the good old days.
Scary thing is I hadn't considered that anyone didn't know who Jed Clampett was.
The narration to this video is brilliant. It's super convenient that you had that random metal laying around. That thing you're welding looks like the exhaust fibulator bearing for my 1962 Mazda RX7.
Grind, sand and weld, right. You're better than me. That's really good!
I wish you'd start a channel on Rumble where you don't have to worry about the thought police censoring your excellent videos.
I learn something every time I watch your videos... Thanks!!!
The Anaheim, Azusa And Cucamonga Knitting Circle, Book Review And Gunsmithing Association?
They're a fun bunch! Just don't leave the coffee pot empty, or all hell will break loose.
For a sheetmetal joint, consider the option of a countersunk lap seam / offset flush lap. This puts more base material at the joint (while leaving one side flush), and is more tolerant of minor welding imperfections. Very strong without needing to weld on the inner face.
Ironic that you're welding two pieces of tubing for some unspecified reason, using a "random piece of metal from the shop" to clamp them together (all presumably to discourage any censors from blocking complete access to your content and viewership), then you go and make a joke about taking acid and heroin last night! Perhaps this is intentional to prove some point about what censored gets censored...
I learn something new with each video, thank you.
Best knitting video by far, and that "random piece of metal" looks like a great fit.
Good idea to use the copper as a shim and backing strip. I'll have to remember that one .
I could watch this all day !!
Very informative video with hard to find information about the relationship between knitting and welding.
What you said had me cracking up inside 🤣🤣🤣
I'm certified with a stick welder for work, pretty good with a mig welder,which is way easier, but I've never used a tig welder. Watching you makes me want to buy a tig machine. I've got some gocart frames & mini bikes that need tinkered with.
I can’t WAIT till you get the MINI weld job done!
Knitting Guild?
News to me.
Sweet!!! Great job!
Makes me want to purchase a Tig setup, for more welding endeavors!!
If you want to weld everything, have the cleanest, most precise welds, go tig. I don’t regret buying my tig welder one bit. It was expensive, but worth it to me.
Lovely 👌 Makes me want to try as well. Would probably burn something down though...
That's how you learn. The only sure way to avoid fire is to already know what you are doing, but it doesn't work like that. Just keep a fire extinguisher around.
Practice makes perfect and one thing that should be attached to every welding cart/machine is a fire extinguisher
Mark needs to adopt me ASAP, he’s a little crazy, but he’s my type of guy!
awesome video. Also got my RN50 and i wanted to say its the most fun rifle ive ever shot. Thanks, Mark Serbu!
Brilliant 😅🥳 always loved knitting! Especially such things, I'm on the guild too.
LMFAO, knitters helping knitters!
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet. But when I worked in the shipyards we'd use a trick to fair up uneven metals quickly like with the issue you had there with little shelves being present. We called it a "hot tack".. we'd do it by having a hammer ready by ya side.. go ahead and boil a weld in.. and immediately after ya tack it.. whack the high side to level them out. Works great when trying to flush surfaces that don't quite need a jig or saddle n wedges
It does work great, but I can't see it being applied here because of the weird shapes and precision involved.. and hot tacks really only work when you introduce filler to weld puddle.. here it's just fusion welding and no filler..
@SwampOperator Yeah likely so. Been a long while since I said this and I'd have to watch the video again but I'll take your word for it lol.
At times I'll watch random welding videos here and see folks go thru all sorts of trouble and hassle to line up plates that back in the day I'd just whack to make them act right lol, then move on to the next one. I'm not sure if it's a well known trick outside of that world or not.
6:10 Huh, what a coincidence, my grandpa also used to walk to school uphill both ways through the snow
Yes sir copper backing works great for thin stuff or thin landings. With sheet metal I prefer it to ceramic.
Great video!
The "contamination" you got when you welded the edges and next to the edge on the inside was because the edge diverted the argon gas and you had less coverage.
If you adjust the flow or use a purge fixture or bigger cup shouldn't be a problem.
Voting for bigger cup, that tiny cup is not for that use.
Yep. I came to comment the same thing. He could also extend the copper flashing past the edge to hold the gas.
As long as the copper is flat and touching the steel it will always be difficult to get full penetration. In automation we put a groove underneath so that the bead will fuse together. Also you usually are better off adding a tiny amount of wire a the start and end and touch it up with a grinder. The issue with going over it and over again without adding wire to it is you are likely to cause a crack. This is against most codes on carbon steel or that reason. The wire contains deoxidizers that assist in floating the contaminants out. Also welding around corners prevents cracking later.
Clamps... Clamps everywhere...
God damn without them I think we would still be in stone age.
Even when I do simple work I need some third hand and Damm those small clamps are useful
very nice!
Mark. I am so glad to see you have a interest in knitting also its been a big hobby In my family and has been passed down for generations.. 😆😆🤪
I know nothing about engineering but I know a lot about firearms. You make me want to start making guns
Awesome! Get yourself over to Weaponsguild.com, join up and start learning!
I have these Korean 33 round stick mags for a Glock and they suck because the steel they used on the inside is 2 pieces from the 15 round mags and they have a shelf where the 2 pieces of steel meet half way up the mag. This shelf catches the follower and the spring all the time. So the 33 round mags are good for about 15 rounds or so, but if you get the follower below that mismatched metal seam, it catches and you can turn the mag upside down and just dump the rounds out of it like a salf shaker.
How convenient and lucky you were to have such nicely fitting square blocks of metal laying around! Slides in perfectly. The micro fireworks you had on the inside were nothing to worry about. You welded the outside without shielding gas on the inside causing some oxygen bonds and inclusions to form there. When passing over the inside, these did what they do, but you were surely not contaminating anywhere deep into the wall thickness, that's for sure. The only thing I would be (only very slightly, if at all) worried about is the potential of a hairline crack to propagate from the mating at the radius part on the top, as it appears you didn't flow weld all the way there. I think you're totally fine. You were brave to tack the sides of the sheet though.... You must trust the starting amps of your welder very much. PS. Reps disco not much your thing? PS2. I've got SW17 and SW20 for you if you want
That quilt is going to be so nice.
ive always wanted to learn about knitting!
...and I still do!
You were so lucky to have a bit of random steel that fits perfectly inside the 2 other bits of random square tubing you were joining together.
Is that part of a knitting machine? looks pretty technical.
Nice job.
You are my spirit animal Mark!
Thanks Mark.
Thank you.
I've got a giant 3ft vice grip I use for super heavy duty clamping jobs.
You know it's serious business whenever I break ol' Jed out.
nice welds! that upper came out clean
Great welding video on tube welding.
Thanks Mark, I need to stop in and buy you lunch one day...
As always excellent work! Thanks for sharing part of your work day with us
Imi welding. Too funny. Nice stiching!!!! U Zid Incredible on this chunk of metal!!
God damn it I love mark 😂
Coolest kind of rectangular tubing haha
if you do that job again---- you can make a block that slides inside the shell---- the block would have a groove milled around it on 3 sides that would create a passage behind the weld --- and you can purge the passage with argon---- that will make the inside of the weld wet as well as the outside. No nasty scale--- and it will be a much stronger weld------
I've used the same shop fixture to align the same weld joint. What a coincidence
LOL, I passed over this video at least 10X till I saw who it was............ I love knitting!
This is the best welding instructional video of this year and maybe decade... I really like the transparent tig rig cup.
That's something I never saw in boilers or powerhouses as far as that goes I've never seen one in the 40+ years in construction.
So weld prep IE cleaning is 90 percent of a good tig weld.. Porosity will get you if you have too much wind, or even a dirty tig wire.
As well as too much of a moist environment..
I guess welding has come a long way since my retirement. Never thought of a clear cup...
Sounds and looks like you are using a high frequency rig,
Back welding is the ticket... Maybe you should try a 1/8 tungsten and a mini touch with a button.. Again I am probably talking out of my ass. Too much caffeine and LSD from the night before.... Will make you shake especially, if your DTs are kicking in as well....
I digress.....
God bless you and your loved ones
Stay Safe
Godspeed
The Beverly Hillbillies was probably as popular in the UK as the US . The red hot blonde may have something to with that . Like the new content and style and must agree that these heavy block " welding fixtures" come in very handy .
I actually prefer perocity on my welds. I don't even use a shielding gas. Also blowing a "drain hole" every so many inches is ideal :)
glad to *receive* this in my suggested
Tack the ends first and put a bit of filler in .it will help you to stop blowing thru and leaveing crater crack . a small end cap for the tight spaces works great .welding was good though the way you did it👍
Great video as usual. Love your channel for knitting tips 👌
Nice work. I would like to see some nice knitting work done on some British sheet metal.
Around my shop we also say jedd clampett when we clamp things
Fantastic!!!! Incredibile welding a big capolavoro ✌️✌️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
"Knitting" forums. I also love "knitting".
Some of this stuff could really use a small amount of filler, sparingly, but could still use some to reduce some of the concave profile..
I'm not dogging on your welding.. it was really smart to use the copper backing, aluminum works well too, but given a choice I'd use copper..
And for those real real tight places, a short back cap would help, and they make tig cups that are similar to a" nozzle".. I know you mentioned a mini tig rig, but sometimes the correct combo of cup and back cap will get you by
Mark, how do you find the thickness of a saw kerf, if you are putting one of the destroyed bang sticks, back together. Like prints and so forth so you can get correct dimension for that old mgun welded with original parts kit. Asking for a friend.
Knitting!
I always like these type of videos. Thank you Mark.
I do have a question.. wouldn't you worry about heat shrinkage with the length of travel you did?
Also your not adding filler? Just going over it to weld it together?
I really enjoyed the no crap, get things done with what I have attitude
I'd suggest acquiring a few Kant-Twist clamps. Vice grips have their place, but there are times where they aren't the best choice for a job.
Nice work. When you are welding it should sound like bacon frying, not smell like bacon frying.
Whoah real hands?! That’s something only 2090s kids will understand.
BTW, in the 80's I owned an UZI Carbine, and I really enjoyed shooting it and reloading ammo for it. I wish I could have enjoyed a more interesting version, but where I lived in the USA, it wasn't possible.
Turn amps 50 slow down get puddle swriling if you dip tungston clean it
wish all that tubing came in a kit
What size needle are you knitting with and what are your knitting machine settings?
My guess would be 3/32 tungsten by the looks of it as it looks too big to be 1/16
Nice day to weld up an uzi looking thingie
Nice
At 7:40 you made me laugh out loud. Mushrooms at a low dose have been used by software engineers in silicon valley for quite a while. If you ever do try mushrooms, start low and work your way up until you reach the desired effect. It enhances creativity and also has a lasting effect as a mood stabilizer, making it easier to deal with stress.
Wouldn’t slight beveling have resulted in greater depth? I realize you would have then needed to add filler metal. Is that something you wanted to avoid?
what an amazing way to knit!! I would love to learn to knit for you... Maybe relocate the sweatshop to Oklahoma? :)
Relocate to his sweatshop in Florida with his hot daughter.
I hope you share the finished product at work when it's finished.
What TIG machine did you use? What were the settings? I happen to have this same tubing in my garage and I want to weld it too.
Did you get some steelwool and knitted that rectangular tube???? :)
I've used a copper spatula made from a piece of pipe and it stopped the burnthrough and kept splatter out while doing an autobody patch. Copper is like non-stick to welding.
Its non stick for STEEL welding. It gets squirrely with other materials like aluminum
You're a funny dude lol
Just found your channel; subbed!
Great work & video!
When homogeneous welding; you're at the mercy of the purity of the base metals, relative to inclusions. Not exactly knowing the base composition, 309L filler is very helpful.
Curious what your PPS was? Reducing your PPS will increase heat input, & thus penetration.
Great video & thanks again for taking us along-
Very good 👍👍👍
You already know this but I'll say it anyways using copper will exorb the Heat can also prevent worpage when welding. I used to use copper when I was welding up molding holes on door panels or quarter panel's or front fenders on the old vehicles. Plus you get a cleaner finished product.
0:01 This is just the natural main theme to Florida