My son is 6 foot 5 inches and the Libre was one of the few bikes that we could find to fit him well and was affordable and easily available here in New Zealand. We paid 1800 USD for carbon version in a sale and added a second set of wheels for trainer use and road cycling. It’s certainly quite an upright ride but he’s pretty new to cycling so it suits him perfectly.
Although Kona wasn't on my radar I ended up buying a Rove Ltd mid pandemic. I couldn't be happier with it for what it is. Really is an exceptionally comfortable and very easy to control bike. I was in the recovery process of some neurological "event" that had weakened my right leg and left arm to the point I was unable to balance and steer my early 90's hybrid safely at the time. Bike totally allowed me to continue cycling even all day rides no problem.
Great to hear that this bike helped you while recovering. It is a fantastic bike. ✨ Do you like the carbon fork? Does it make it more „sprinty“? I have a Kona Rove ST 2020 (frame and fork in steel). Thinking about upgrading the steel fork to a carbon one. Kona is offering them for around 400 €. 🫣
@Blooming at night Thank you. It's hard to say as I haven't ridden a steel fork on a Rove but I kind of doubt it would make the sort of difference you are looking for. Russ may have ridden both?
Still riding my Kona Rove NRB DL that I bought at the beginning of Covid after watching your review. Mostly serving commuter duty but it’s been such a great bike. The rove has been such a versatile and fun platform to grow with and is always at the top of my recommendations for folks looking for an affordable road style bike. Thanks for sharing your list! Wish I had unlimited funds and space to try them all!
I've been rewatching your videos lately and will definitely watch this one again and take notes. I'm leaning toward the allbroader bike vs a gravel bike so some of your info really helps. That Polyvalent looks sweet to this old school guy.
Wow. This goes in the reference section with the expensive dictionaries and encyclopedias. Extremely well researched. No beating around the bush. Very objective. Incisive. Lots of info per sq. Inch. Thanks.
Great revue of the more affordable bikes for for gravel. Enjoy your channel Russ but watching this has made me love my sub $200 90s mountain bikes even more, especially with the Party Pace stickers on them.
Great selection. Two things on the new Surly Preamble, I just built up the flatbar size range at our shop and the Preamble runs pretty large. I usually ride a large and the medium feels perfect. Super responsive frame. Also a bonus, the midfork brazeons go all the way through for a lowrider rack, a super practical detail. Also built up the Nicasio+, great comfortable bike that puts a smile on your face. But honestly you can’t go wrong with any of these, well done.
Russter!!! Super-useful! Thanks! Recently, I was the tour guide for a 22-yr-old nephew. We pedalled 150 km over 3 days, climbing 2,000 metres. He was on a rented gravel bike; loved it. If he shows any interest in buying a new bike - I’M READY FOR HIM! Thanks to your good work. {I’m on a 64 cm Straggler; tubeless tires w/ CushCore. 42x50 1x9 Box 3 drivetrain. DT shifter (singular). 200 mm front rotor. Let it roll!} You def. da MAN! (I’m on South Van. Is.)
I've been enjoying my Poseidon redwood, which i picked up after watching your review. I like the mtb side of thing but appreciate the longer rear end then the Marin. Cheers!
I endorse this buyers guide-and these price points. I bought a bike I wanted after the Russ review. It rides exactly as Russ described. Nice to know about all of the options at these price points.
Just bought my Kona Rove 2023 model early this year and man its the best purchase ive made for a chill ride kinda bike! cant wait to take it to long adventures in the summer ^^
I'm riding a Kona Sutra 2022 (2x model). Amazing bike and rides even better when front loaded for bikepacking. Rove has a similar geometry and I'm sure it's great. My other bike is a Surly Steamroller for city single-speeding. Good to see both companies on Russ' list.
@@davetbassbos Most cyclists have never even heard of the 'ring of death' plaguing plastic fork steerers. Nor understand what causes it. In the bike shop we discover this on a regular basis. Look it up or ask and I'll explain. Yet even fewer cyclists are aware of the various failure modes of various frame/fork materials. Let's just say metal bends, dents and rarely cracks. I've cracked steel frames from fatigue and there's lots of noisy warnings. Cant say the same for plastic bike junk. I've built aerospace hardware from carbon fiber. I inspected it as well. Nobody's fooling me. I'll never buy plastic bike junk. It doesn't last long like metal. Always keep your headset adjusted properly and overhaul it every year. A plastic fork is not more comfortable than steel, regardless of what marketing idiots claim. Disc brakes also require a fork be reinforced to withstand braking forces. Therefore they are stiffer and less comfortable than a rim brake fork, which can also be built lighter.
Great choices - I’ve been watching this channel since day 1 . I will say imo the best chill - upright ride - the Salsa Cutthroat. It’s mtb geo meets 27.5 gravel tires . You can go Fargo too but the Cutthroat is a cut above .
Excellent overview, as always. Thank you for all the great info. I've got 10 year old Specialized Cruz, but am looking to get something newer and maybe a little lighter. This helped!
Great overview, thank you. Talking about low-ish trail bikes: Will you be able to review the Brother Mr Wooden that comes out this year? Rim brake, downtube shifter mounts, 44mm trail...sounds really interesting to me
Russ, would you consider throwing a ATB list together in a similar format? Some honorable mentions would be like the Kona Unit, Surly Krampus, Breezer thunder, etc etc. Keep up the great work
Excellent summary. All those bikes sound like great options for less than exorbitant prices of more widely promoted bikes. Easy to forget how many solid options are out there
Soma considers their Fog Cutter to be "Endurance Road" rather than gravel, but I'm running 650x47 on mine, and it's the most stable bike I've ever owned (and I have 12 bikes at the moment). The FC forks were out of stock when I bought the frame, but the seller offered me a great price on the flat crown Wolverine steel fork, which has axle-to-crown and rake within a couple MM of the Fog Cutter forks. Worked great, but I did get the FC Carbon fork when it came back into stock. It lightened the bike, but I'm not sure that it rides any better than what I had.
Got my missus a marin nicaso plus. Great bike. Managed to fit some 650b x2.0 tyres and change the front chainring to a 30t. Now she can ride up just about anything.
I own a Surly "Karate Monkey" and love the adventure. I watched your review of the Tumbleweed Prospector and am thinking it might be another possible addition to my quiver. I love your channel, you, and your videos stoked for the future adventures😁😁😁.
In Europe we have the Genesis too. I still ride my entry level Croix de Fer 10 upgraded with Sensah 11s group in 1x and it's just a great and fun ride. I feel in the US you have wayyyy more choices for this type of steel & fun type of frame 😅
Awesome list. When my friends ask me I basically say “get steel.” Could be any brand… I just always notice buddies sending me super racy carbon type gravel bikes that look “sick” and being like “is this good?” Bike nerds know steel is real but entry people often don’t… To each their own, but I think people get sucked into sexy race gravels and it can be so limiting once they decide they wanna do things like camping or town riding
I personally ride a Poseidon X. I ride mostly ride in the road with occasional gravel events. I also have a rear Ibera rack and BBB aero bars fitted, so it's my own abomination.
I am going to do the steamboat gravel race the 100 miler on the Poseidon X. I am planning on going to a through axle, upgraded brakes, seat, pedals, and an upgraded drive train. So far I have changed nothing on it after a year. Been on more expensive road bikes and mtn bikes but so far the X is my personal fave. It's just a fun bike to ride imo. I commute 20 miles a day minimum through gravel, road, and some single track with it and it's been stellar. On the weekends I go 50+ miles on it. I hope the race won't be too tough on it but I think it will do just fine with the upgrades. Gravel riding doesn't need to be too expensive. I also have an Ibera rear rack on it and strap a cooler to it all of the time lol.
Just bought a Marin four corners and have been enjoying it, I’m curious what you think of the bike. I’m a mountain biker dipping my toe into gravel and bikepacking, I can’t wait to take it on its first trip this weekend.
Bought my wife a Salsa Journeyer (flat bar, 650, Acolyte 1x8). I had an old set of ChrisKing/Mavic 700c wheels that I threw on, with 700x50 Clement MSO rear, 29x2.0 Specialized Fast Trak front. She is not an avid biker, and still enjoyed some singletrack on it in Bentonville. It's very capable! We'll rent a full sus MTB next trip! 😂 For gravel, it's a great bike. The 8spd though.... It's geared WAY too high! It's also got an odd square taper crank with an odd BCD. So, I'm swapping on a cheap square taper crank with 104BCD, and smaller ring. I'll probably get some much better tires too, as she will mostly ride smooth gravel/paths. Rene Herse? Then I can steal them once in a while. ;)
I bought a Boardman hybrid (flat bar) 10 x 2 in 2017 to do some gravel type events on. £550, 1kg lighter than Specialized & Trek, much better equipped, have also toured/bikepacked. Only thing is, most road bikers wouldn't be seen dead on a flat bar bike, let alone say hi when you pass by!
So I have only ever got enjoy one bike store level bike I took over my step-dad's trek hybrid when I was in high school exploring the city until the bearings in the rims gave out. Fast forward 20 years I decided I wanted to buy a good gravel bike. My wife would have probably liked it if I watched this video first. I ended up buying a ritchey outback for my first good bike. I guess I can call it a midlife crisis 😂😂😂
what do you think of the kona sutra? The SE variant with friction shifter is on my shortlist - along with the rove (although the sutra is basically a more touring rove)
The Canyon Grizl AL for $1200 with a GRX group set is a good one too. Surprised the Poseidon Redwood Didn’t make the cut. All good bikes overall can’t go wrong.
One thing I have noticed is a common theme in the favorite bike lisys that Russ posts, is he has a very strong preference leaning towards more all-road bikes (68mm bottom brackets with tire clearances that are usually 45 to 54c). He seems to not like quite as much what some people call "drop bar mountain bikes" (e.g. Poseidon Redwood, Bearclaw Beaux Jackson, Otso Fenrir, Salsa Cuthroat, etc... bikes that have larger mountain bike clearances). Another common theme I see is he seems to not like slack geometry headtubes even though he occasionally tests suck bikes. This seems to be partly why he dislikes drop bar mountain bikes (Otso Fenrir is especially slack). I dont know why he would overlook the Poseidon Redwood though. Sure, too many great bikes to add to the list, but clearly Poseidon is among best bang for the buck pricewise. The head angle is, I think, a bit too on the racey side. You would think Russ would like that since he prefers livelier steering.
I was about to comment that I have a Decathlon Triban grvl 120 that I really like (though it's the only gravel bike that I've ever owned), and I decided to check the US price. Seems that model is not availble in the US and OH BOY, THE BIKES ARE SO EXPENSIVE: the next model, 520 subcompact, is 1,200€ (probably totally worth it at that price) but $1,799 (probably not worth it)!
That Marin DSX looks super fun, have a drop bar redwood but I can't even ride it, it's pretty much my fiancées now. Drop bars and my hands don't get along.
Here's a question (and possible new video idea) with all the talk of buying new bikes, is there a golden rule of thumb regarding how long I should keep my old one? Be it an aluminum, steel, carbon or other material frame, is there an anticipated lifespan where I should consider a new one, like 3, 5 or 10+ years? Or ride it til it breaks?
Another good entry point option are Breezer Bikes - Radar: Flat Bar $900 and Drop Bar $1,100 Both are steel frame/fork and good options for starting out. Frame only - look at Mike Varley's Black Mountain Cycles - Mod Zero or Monstercross, both are solid steel choices.
This seems to fly under everyone's radar but the Canyon Grizl is literally a $1300 bike with a full GRX hydraulic groupset. You can straight up cannibalize the bike and make back the purchase price. I don't know how it got like that but it's a full aluminum bike with lots of rack mounts and versatility.
@@PathLessPedaledTV That's a very fair point. But the pricing on Grizls got so ludicrous that I'm considering purchasing one as a spare bike or even for parts.
Considering a lot of newer riders want a cheaper bike I’m suprised you didn’t put the posiden redwood or x or the state bicycle co 4130. Good list though.
I'm an amateur bodybuilder weighing a muscular 5 ft 11 and 235 lbs. I love cycling and don't want a typical MTB, what gravel type bikes would be suggested for someone with strong legs in my size?
It's nice to have a list showing bikes with multiple versions. Something beginners should keep in mind is how up-gradable their bike is. I'm glad that you recommended the Kona 'Rove' instead of the 'Rove AL' base model. I purchased the latter, but found that its components have some major limitations. For example, the rims aren't tubeless compatible, and I've found that the rear hub spacing (135mm) is uncommon for tubeless wheelsets. It would be nicer to have 142mm spacing to open up more tubeless wheel options. Obviously I wasn't thinking of this as a complete novice when I bought the bike. You should totally do a video on the less apparent bike specs that prospective buyers should look out for!
Learn how to build a wheel. It's not rocket science. Lace on a tubeless rim. OR check out 'ghetto' tubeless. AKA split tube tubeless. That will convert any wheel to tubeless. I use rims that are over 20 years old. I've been doing it for over 20 years. Even on tubeless rims. I haven't gotten a flat in 20 years.
@@rollinrat4850 The thought has occurred to me. Though I would prefer tubeless rims for the peace of mind on long distance trips. I could also change hub end caps to quick release - apparently some thru axle 142 hubs can be converted 135, but I need to look into this more.
@@brambles179 I do long distance trips, for days at a time, in very remote, rough, often rocky places on ghetto tubeless. I'm all on my own with no cell coverage up to a week at a time. Unless I fish for food, that's about the limit of my survival skills and discomfort level. Usually I'm fishin for fun and put them back unless Im really hungry. I'm just careful and ride pretty conservatively to conserve my tires. I use descents in the mountains mostly to rest. I also want to survive to see my grandchildren one day. But mostly, walking for a few days with a loaded bike just really sucks. Take my word for it... Once you figure out a good technique and figure out what tires work best on your rims, ghetto is THE MOST reliable tubeless set up that exists. Yeah, it takes a bit more effort (PATIENCE) to set up, especially at 1st. Practice makes perfect. Theres a good reason I still use this old school method, after 20 years. And I keep a dozen wheels going for all my bikes. DHers we're the first to invent this DIY tubeless set up. Way back when I saw what they were doing and adapted it for my marathon XC and bike packing. My only bike not using ghetto is a vintage custom steel road bike with nice cotton tires and latex tubes or tubular wheels. I'll take this old bike out in dirt too. The cool thing about split tube is that it forms a rubber rimstrip which mates perfectly with rubber tires. It's a perfect sealing scenario! Sealant also contains latex rubber to glue everything together. This construction is similar to the construction of a tubular tire. I believe this has benefits in how the tire conforms to the ground. I've raced road and 'cross with tubulars and understand why pro racers still use that archaic technology. The valve in a split tube set up is integrated into the rim strip, so that potential leak point is completely eliminated. I'm a long time shop mechanic and a machinist. I've seen most of the different tubeless set ups. I've made the mistakes, learned from them, solved and seen most of the mistakes that can be made with tubeless. I've set up hundreds if not a thousand tubeless set ups over many years. It's easy now. I use Velocity (USA made!) or H plus Son rims. HED Belgiums are real nice too. Never owned 'em but built lots for customers. Rene Herse, Vittoria, Donnelly(clement) or Specialized tires fit my set ups best. That's my newer 700c or 29" stuff. All my 26" rims are decades older, mostly non tubeless and narrower, also perfectly reliable tubeless. The only tubeless issues or failures I've suffered were fault of my own. None were caused by the split tube set up. I either forgot to top up sealant, neglected to air up my tires and rolled or burped a tire, or tore tires on a rock. After 20 years, I can count the number of failures on one hand. If you're not bored yet and still interested, I'm glad to share my expertise. I'll just warn you that at first split tube tubeless is a learning experience. It definitely requires patience and craftiness. But the rewards are awesome. Tires are our connection with the ground. They make a huge difference. Obviously I'm kinda obsessed with tires. After all these years, it's all 2nd nature to me. It just takes 15 minutes or so per wheel. I also dig 4wd rock crawling. Big Tires at almost no PSI make a huge difference
As someone who’s riding Kona‘s Rove (ST 1x SRAM Rival 1) for three years now, I can fully agree with your summary about it. Not super fast but a joy to ride. A nice and reasonable overview, liked a lot of the bikes 🙏🏻
Can recommend a bike form smaller riders around 1.63m without toe overlap? I can not get over it. Crashed almost 3 times last ride while climbing, slow techy stuff and during track stance 😢
Ive been following Path less pedaled for some tine now. I love your channel, i have a question, though. What's wrong with fitess bikes? Like the specilized Sirrus. Im seeing similar geometry to the bikes labeled. Gravel. Swap knobbier tires... presto gravel bike. I dont see anyone talking about that. Fitness bikes like the sirrus comes in different trim levels but you can pick up the 2.0. That has hydraulics. For well, under 1000 bucks So why isn't anyone talking about fitness bikes that are supposed to versatile. And their potential in the gravel world?
Cross check is not good for gravel, compared to more up to date options. It’s my default bike and the one that’s in the garage year after year, but if you’re worried about crashing on gravel, something like the Libre is way more sure footed.
Do you recommend a 26" wheel bike? Because i really want one. Touring and bike packing is my mission. I already have 700c, an early 90s Bridgestone RB-T and im in love, but i still want a 26".
I love converting old 26" mtbs to drop bars. The handling is killer and you can find them cheap or free. Most of my bikes now have dirt drops. I'm looking for an old Bontrager frame. I could build a killer gravel bike with an RB-T frame. Old touring bikes can be built into wonderful off-road bikes as long as fat tires fit. I often ride an old Miyata fixed gear 'cross bike. It's my favorite bike among a dozen or so. I'm looking to unload an RB1 frame. I just gave an MB3 singlespeed I built to my nephew. It came out nicer than I intended and pretty darn light. I was sorta thinking I wanted to ride it, but he needs transportation bad.
I've restored several old 90's mtb's and decent 26" rims are almost impossible to find these days. Why I don't know? But if you want decent wheels go for 27.5 /650B especially if you want to run tubeless. It's what I am going to do next. My current all purpose/all terrain bike is a kona dew fs built with a rigid soma carbon fork, 700c wtb rims and 43mm Panaracer gravel king tyres, surly corner bars and a 1x10 microShift adventx drive (hollowtech II bb) 40T to 11-48! Most bike shops keep telling me I'm a medium frame but experience has taught me that a large frame with more stack keeps me more upright and much more comfortable as less pressure on hands and less numbness - one can always lower the saddle, use a super short stem, but getting the bars higher is more difficult without the steerer extensions which I find very ugly. Just my opinion.
These prices are crazy!!! 🤯 Great recommendations, but it hurts that you can’t get anything carbon and 11-12 speed for reasonable amounts today. Especially if you know what these bikes costed 2-3 years ago. 🙁
Be patient, buy used. After the Covid bike boom, lots of fickle consumers will be selling or better yet, 'upgrading'. Wait for the 'right sucker'. The very best deals are in used bikes IF you know what to look for. Seriously reconsider purchasing plastic bike junk. They're not all that great. You don't 'need' 11 or 12 speeds either. 10 was more than enough. I used to build carbon aerospace hardware. I'm never buying plastic bike junk. I'm a professional shop mechanic, a retired machinist. Nobody's fooling me. If you've got money for plastic junk, buy custom steel. It will last far longer and actually has good value IF you ride lots.
I have the opportunity to purchase a Bombtrack Beyond 2 within the same price range as a number of the bikes on the list, does anyone have experience with them?
As the owner of a DSX, I'll say it is a good bike, but it can't really be your only bike as it's a bit of a jack of all trades, master of none. If that's your only bike, soon you'll be craving a faster road or gravel bike, or a more capable mountain bike, or a more comfortable touring bike. it would make a good addition to a fleet of more specialized thoroughbred bikes. Also, don't get the base model. The base model comes with a crappy aluminium fork that doesn't have clearance to fit fenders with the stock 700Cx45mm tires, even though it has fender mounts as standard. The only way to remedy this is to get narrower tires or swap to 650B wheels. If you want to go with the latter, bear in mind that the base model has quick release axles, so there aren't many options for premium lightweight gravel 650B wheelsets, and you might have to run cheap heavy 27.5" mountain bike wheels instead.
I come from mountain biking so I don’t totally understand the issue, but for a bike to handle the same across sizes, wouldn’t you keep the fork and head tube angle identical and just adjust the head tube length and reach? Does this have something to do with toe overlap on more road style bikes? I see road bikes adjusting the head tube angle measurement across sizes and it leads to wildly different trail figures across sizes, just seems like it should be identical and if toe overlap is an issue, then I could see having 2 forks, one for short riders and one for tall ones, with the tall one having increased offset and a slackened head tube angle to maintain trail figures while moving the front wheel out further
Mountain bikes have long front centers and naturally slacker HTA. Road bikes have much shorter front center and steeper HTAs. To avoid toe overlap you can either increase rake or slacken HTA. Most if not all brands only want to produce one fork. The result is wildly different HTAs.
I've never obsessed on geo too much. I ride whatever's under me at a given moment wherever I wanna go. I really enjoy exploring. Back in the '70s, few knew what an 'ATB' even was. We rode our steel race bikes off-road way back when. Even with tubular tires. I still love 'underbiking'. I've been slowly converting all my bikes to dirt drops. Even my 26" MTBs. It's the RIDER, not the freakin bike!
Im looking for my first gravel bike. First actual adult bike. Im currently between the rove dl and the crosscheck anyone have any feedback. Id like to do gravel road bike camping and probably commuting. Anyone have any feedback
I have a Straggler, which is based on the Crosscheck. You can compare specs on their website to see what is different. Pretty happy with it, though I built mine up from a used frame set, so not the parts you see listed. This is my do-everything bike that I take on vacation.
What would your commute entail? For a congested urban area the Rove wouldn't be my first choice. Also it appears the Cross Check is in the process of being discontinued according to what dealers are saying online. If true it's kinda sad as the bike has been around so long.
My son is 6 foot 5 inches and the Libre was one of the few bikes that we could find to fit him well and was affordable and easily available here in New Zealand. We paid 1800 USD for carbon version in a sale and added a second set of wheels for trainer use and road cycling. It’s certainly quite an upright ride but he’s pretty new to cycling so it suits him perfectly.
Although Kona wasn't on my radar I ended up buying a Rove Ltd mid pandemic. I couldn't be happier with it for what it is. Really is an exceptionally comfortable and very easy to control bike. I was in the recovery process of some neurological "event" that had weakened my right leg and left arm to the point I was unable to balance and steer my early 90's hybrid safely at the time. Bike totally allowed me to continue cycling even all day rides no problem.
I've got Rove DL, my best decision ever made what concerns buying bikes
Great to hear that this bike helped you while recovering. It is a fantastic bike. ✨
Do you like the carbon fork? Does it make it more „sprinty“?
I have a Kona Rove ST 2020 (frame and fork in steel). Thinking about upgrading the steel fork to a carbon one. Kona is offering them for around 400 €. 🫣
@Blooming at night Thank you. It's hard to say as I haven't ridden a steel fork on a Rove but I kind of doubt it would make the sort of difference you are looking for.
Russ may have ridden both?
Bought ‘17 Sutra with the same frame geometry. It’s a great workhorse. Would recommend.
Kona Roves are freaking awesome. At every spec/price point in the range - you get a great commuter, gravel bike, light camper.
Still riding my Kona Rove NRB DL that I bought at the beginning of Covid after watching your review. Mostly serving commuter duty but it’s been such a great bike. The rove has been such a versatile and fun platform to grow with and is always at the top of my recommendations for folks looking for an affordable road style bike.
Thanks for sharing your list! Wish I had unlimited funds and space to try them all!
Still riding my Kona Rove, which you turned me on to in 2019. Best bike ever! Thanks, Russ.
I've been rewatching your videos lately and will definitely watch this one again and take notes. I'm leaning toward the allbroader bike vs a gravel bike so some of your info really helps. That Polyvalent looks sweet to this old school guy.
Wow. This goes in the reference section with the expensive dictionaries and encyclopedias. Extremely well researched. No beating around the bush. Very objective. Incisive. Lots of info per sq. Inch. Thanks.
Great revue of the more affordable bikes for for gravel. Enjoy your channel Russ but watching this has made me love my sub $200 90s mountain bikes even more, especially with the Party Pace stickers on them.
Bought a Polyvalent frame recently and I’ve been buying all my dream dream parts that you’ve reviewed over the years. Can’t wait to finish the build!
I purchased a Fuji jari 2.1 couple of years ago and couldn't be more happier.😊🤘 All the best from Australia.
Great selection. Two things on the new Surly Preamble, I just built up the flatbar size range at our shop and the Preamble runs pretty large. I usually ride a large and the medium feels perfect. Super responsive frame. Also a bonus, the midfork brazeons go all the way through for a lowrider rack, a super practical detail. Also built up the Nicasio+, great comfortable bike that puts a smile on your face. But honestly you can’t go wrong with any of these, well done.
I’m so torn between the Nicasio and Preamble, any advice?
Russter!!! Super-useful! Thanks! Recently, I was the tour guide for a 22-yr-old nephew. We pedalled 150 km over 3 days, climbing 2,000 metres. He was on a rented gravel bike; loved it. If he shows any interest in buying a new bike - I’M READY FOR HIM! Thanks to your good work. {I’m on a 64 cm Straggler; tubeless tires w/ CushCore. 42x50 1x9 Box 3 drivetrain. DT shifter (singular). 200 mm front rotor. Let it roll!}
You def. da MAN! (I’m on South Van. Is.)
I've been enjoying my Poseidon redwood, which i picked up after watching your review. I like the mtb side of thing but appreciate the longer rear end then the Marin. Cheers!
I endorse this buyers guide-and these price points. I bought a bike I wanted after the Russ review. It rides exactly as Russ described. Nice to know about all of the options at these price points.
Just bought my Kona Rove 2023 model early this year and man its the best purchase ive made for a chill ride kinda bike! cant wait to take it to long adventures in the summer ^^
I'm riding a Kona Sutra 2022 (2x model). Amazing bike and rides even better when front loaded for bikepacking. Rove has a similar geometry and I'm sure it's great. My other bike is a Surly Steamroller for city single-speeding. Good to see both companies on Russ' list.
Cool to see the Rove up first! I love my '21. Great value bike.
Very HELPFUL! Awesome recommendations! Thank you 💯👍😎
Just built up a Commencal FCB. Been a really fun ride. Great vid Russ
I had a 2020 Renegade S4. It was my first bike shop bike. I rode it until the components were shot. Definitely agree with the recommendation.
I’m just so stoked that there are steel frame options WITH a steel fork ❤
Yeah I've never seen the point of having a rugged steel frame if the fork is brittle plastic (not scientific, I know, lol!)
All city
@@davetbassbos Most cyclists have never even heard of the 'ring of death' plaguing plastic fork steerers. Nor understand what causes it. In the bike shop we discover this on a regular basis. Look it up or ask and I'll explain.
Yet even fewer cyclists are aware of the various failure modes of various frame/fork materials. Let's just say metal bends, dents and rarely cracks. I've cracked steel frames from fatigue and there's lots of noisy warnings. Cant say the same for plastic bike junk.
I've built aerospace hardware from carbon fiber. I inspected it as well. Nobody's fooling me. I'll never buy plastic bike junk. It doesn't last long like metal.
Always keep your headset adjusted properly and overhaul it every year.
A plastic fork is not more comfortable than steel, regardless of what marketing idiots claim. Disc brakes also require a fork be reinforced to withstand braking forces. Therefore they are stiffer and less comfortable than a rim brake fork, which can also be built lighter.
@@davetbassbos Might be a weight advantage in some cases Idk. I've wondered the same thing.
Totally agree on the Marin Nicasio Plus; such a fun bike to ride!
I currently own a Kona Rove DL could not be happier awesome bike !
Great list here! I would have to add the Poseidon Redwood and their X. Two great bikes at even lower prices than those mentioned here.
Great video!! Thanks!
I bought the Kona Rove DL late last year and I really like it.
Great choices - I’ve been watching this channel since day 1 .
I will say imo the best chill - upright ride - the Salsa Cutthroat.
It’s mtb geo meets 27.5 gravel tires .
You can go Fargo too but the Cutthroat is a cut above .
I'm personally looking forward to a Poseidon X Ambition once funds allow.
Excellent overview, as always. Thank you for all the great info. I've got 10 year old Specialized Cruz, but am looking to get something newer and maybe a little lighter. This helped!
Great overview, thank you. Talking about low-ish trail bikes: Will you be able to review the Brother Mr Wooden that comes out this year? Rim brake, downtube shifter mounts, 44mm trail...sounds really interesting to me
Russ, would you consider throwing a ATB list together in a similar format? Some honorable mentions would be like the Kona Unit, Surly Krampus, Breezer thunder, etc etc. Keep up the great work
Excellent summary. All those bikes sound like great options for less than exorbitant prices of more widely promoted bikes. Easy to forget how many solid options are out there
This is so technical. Im just a woman who wants a gravel bike with flatbars to get on n go
Thank you very much very interesting and helpful!
My Surly Grappler is a little more niche but I absolutely love it as an ATB/bikepacking bike.
Soma considers their Fog Cutter to be "Endurance Road" rather than gravel, but I'm running 650x47 on mine, and it's the most stable bike I've ever owned (and I have 12 bikes at the moment). The FC forks were out of stock when I bought the frame, but the seller offered me a great price on the flat crown Wolverine steel fork, which has axle-to-crown and rake within a couple MM of the Fog Cutter forks. Worked great, but I did get the FC Carbon fork when it came back into stock. It lightened the bike, but I'm not sure that it rides any better than what I had.
Got my missus a marin nicaso plus. Great bike. Managed to fit some 650b x2.0 tyres and change the front chainring to a 30t. Now she can ride up just about anything.
That Wolverine type B looks very well thought out, good to know someone's thinking over at the bike industrial complex.
I have the Type A and it rules dude. Just built it up with 700x50 and 2x11.
I have got a kona dew, which is more of a commuter but it's been pretty capable with some minor upgrades.
I own a Surly "Karate Monkey" and love the adventure. I watched your review of the Tumbleweed Prospector and am thinking it might be another possible addition to my quiver.
I love your channel, you, and your videos stoked for the future adventures😁😁😁.
Very nice list, just picked up a Wolverine type A in that sweet orange
I would also highly recommend the Norco Search XR A2. Aluminum Frame, Carbon Fork, GRX 2x10 all for *$1650* incredible value
This is still very relevant. I've watched it numerous times as I look for a new bike.
Great choices.... I would also add the Fairdale Weekender.
Hi Russ, I got myself a Norco Search XR S1 last year, Reynolds 725, the bike is absolutely fantastic. I love it! Steel is Real 🤙
I get mine on Saturday, I can't wait! :)
@@MrMacguitar awesome, you'll thoroughly enjoy it. Fantastic bike!
That was in my top 3 and would probably have gotten the nod if it had ben available.
I have a S1. I will be replacing the fork with a steel fork. The carbon fork makes the bike feel rougher on gravel than my cross check.
In Europe we have the Genesis too. I still ride my entry level Croix de Fer 10 upgraded with Sensah 11s group in 1x and it's just a great and fun ride.
I feel in the US you have wayyyy more choices for this type of steel & fun type of frame 😅
Awesome list. When my friends ask me I basically say “get steel.” Could be any brand… I just always notice buddies sending me super racy carbon type gravel bikes that look “sick” and being like “is this good?” Bike nerds know steel is real but entry people often don’t… To each their own, but I think people get sucked into sexy race gravels and it can be so limiting once they decide they wanna do things like camping or town riding
Always enjoy your postings.. you don't shill like so many others😊 Or its mild... I can handle that
I love my wolverine. Great do it all bike.
I personally ride a Poseidon X.
I ride mostly ride in the road with occasional gravel events.
I also have a rear Ibera rack and BBB aero bars fitted, so it's my own abomination.
I am going to do the steamboat gravel race the 100 miler on the Poseidon X. I am planning on going to a through axle, upgraded brakes, seat, pedals, and an upgraded drive train. So far I have changed nothing on it after a year. Been on more expensive road bikes and mtn bikes but so far the X is my personal fave. It's just a fun bike to ride imo. I commute 20 miles a day minimum through gravel, road, and some single track with it and it's been stellar. On the weekends I go 50+ miles on it.
I hope the race won't be too tough on it but I think it will do just fine with the upgrades. Gravel riding doesn't need to be too expensive. I also have an Ibera rear rack on it and strap a cooler to it all of the time lol.
I turned my eyes to Wolverine thanks to your earlier review of this bike and right now I'm looking into building it with belt drive and Rohloff.
I found the 2023 Felt Broam 30 quite a phenomenal bike
Just bought a Marin four corners and have been enjoying it, I’m curious what you think of the bike. I’m a mountain biker dipping my toe into gravel and bikepacking, I can’t wait to take it on its first trip this weekend.
Thanks. I’d add Poseidon Redwood.
Bought my wife a Salsa Journeyer (flat bar, 650, Acolyte 1x8). I had an old set of ChrisKing/Mavic 700c wheels that I threw on, with 700x50 Clement MSO rear, 29x2.0 Specialized Fast Trak front. She is not an avid biker, and still enjoyed some singletrack on it in Bentonville. It's very capable! We'll rent a full sus MTB next trip! 😂 For gravel, it's a great bike. The 8spd though.... It's geared WAY too high! It's also got an odd square taper crank with an odd BCD. So, I'm swapping on a cheap square taper crank with 104BCD, and smaller ring. I'll probably get some much better tires too, as she will mostly ride smooth gravel/paths. Rene Herse? Then I can steal them once in a while. ;)
I bought a Boardman hybrid (flat bar) 10 x 2 in 2017 to do some gravel type events on. £550, 1kg lighter than Specialized & Trek, much better equipped, have also toured/bikepacked.
Only thing is, most road bikers wouldn't be seen dead on a flat bar bike, let alone say hi when you pass by!
I hope you get your hands on a dropbar Surly Preamble soon for an in-depth review!
So I have only ever got enjoy one bike store level bike I took over my step-dad's trek hybrid when I was in high school exploring the city until the bearings in the rims gave out. Fast forward 20 years I decided I wanted to buy a good gravel bike. My wife would have probably liked it if I watched this video first. I ended up buying a ritchey outback for my first good bike. I guess I can call it a midlife crisis 😂😂😂
Vitus offer good value gravel bikes with decent spec and reviews - just waiting on delivery of mine here in Australia.
CrossChecker over here 😎
what do you think of the kona sutra? The SE variant with friction shifter is on my shortlist - along with the rove (although the sutra is basically a more touring rove)
I have a Surly Midnight special and it's pretty fast and aggressive on the gravel
The Canyon Grizl AL for $1200 with a GRX group set is a good one too.
Surprised the Poseidon Redwood Didn’t make the cut.
All good bikes overall can’t go wrong.
One thing I have noticed is a common theme in the favorite bike lisys that Russ posts, is he has a very strong preference leaning towards more all-road bikes (68mm bottom brackets with tire clearances that are usually 45 to 54c).
He seems to not like quite as much what some people call "drop bar mountain bikes" (e.g. Poseidon Redwood, Bearclaw Beaux Jackson, Otso Fenrir, Salsa Cuthroat, etc... bikes that have larger mountain bike clearances). Another common theme I see is he seems to not like slack geometry headtubes even though he occasionally tests suck bikes. This seems to be partly why he dislikes drop bar mountain bikes (Otso Fenrir is especially slack).
I dont know why he would overlook the Poseidon Redwood though. Sure, too many great bikes to add to the list, but clearly Poseidon is among best bang for the buck pricewise. The head angle is, I think, a bit too on the racey side. You would think Russ would like that since he prefers livelier steering.
Poseidon X ambition!
I was about to comment that I have a Decathlon Triban grvl 120 that I really like (though it's the only gravel bike that I've ever owned), and I decided to check the US price.
Seems that model is not availble in the US and OH BOY, THE BIKES ARE SO EXPENSIVE: the next model, 520 subcompact, is 1,200€ (probably totally worth it at that price) but $1,799 (probably not worth it)!
I am a Fuji Dealer and there Jari Gravel is worth a look. We sell a bunch of them and most people seem to love them.
I agree with the Jari I bought one back in 2017. Still rip on it today. All Sram Rival. Trp Spyre brakes.
Wolverine can fit 29x2.0 or 27.5x2.2. I had 29x2.0 on mines, which I kind of treated it as a XC lite bike with drop bars.
I love my new Canyon Grizl AL. 1600.00 earlier this year. It’s even cheaper now.
Think you'll test a Preble this year? Considering one myself.
Please review the REI Co-op bicycles ADV 1.1. It looks to me like a nicely spec'd touring bike. I'd like to hear what you think.
That Marin DSX looks super fun, have a drop bar redwood but I can't even ride it, it's pretty much my fiancées now. Drop bars and my hands don't get along.
fyi the cross check fits 50mm tires. this also means it runs bigger than usual tires under fenders
What are your thoughts on the Marin Four Corners? As a former Salsa Fargo and Vaya fan, this feels like a balance between those two bikes. You rock!
The Renegade is an AWESOME bike and the steel has more clearance than the carbon.
Here's a question (and possible new video idea) with all the talk of buying new bikes, is there a golden rule of thumb regarding how long I should keep my old one? Be it an aluminum, steel, carbon or other material frame, is there an anticipated lifespan where I should consider a new one, like 3, 5 or 10+ years? Or ride it til it breaks?
Thank you. It would be great to see a review of women's specific gravel bike models; so hard to find anything for my gf.
Another good entry point option are Breezer Bikes - Radar: Flat Bar $900 and Drop Bar $1,100 Both are steel frame/fork and good options for starting out. Frame only - look at Mike Varley's Black Mountain Cycles - Mod Zero or Monstercross, both are solid steel choices.
I came here to say Breezer too!
Now how about top atb's bike like kona unit x, surly bridge club, ogre or krampus and omany many other, hope to see them all on your channel)
We live in Stourbridge, England and there are TWO cross checks running around here !!!. Stay Safe!!!
Check out my review on the $1500 Polygon Bend R5. Carbon fork, All GRX 800 series components, dropper post, etc. Nothing close at that price point.
This seems to fly under everyone's radar but the Canyon Grizl is literally a $1300 bike with a full GRX hydraulic groupset. You can straight up cannibalize the bike and make back the purchase price. I don't know how it got like that but it's a full aluminum bike with lots of rack mounts and versatility.
Grizls are interesting. Canyon bikes fit weird and are definitely biased towards taller people. Using their recommendations I would be on an XS?!
@@PathLessPedaledTV That's a very fair point. But the pricing on Grizls got so ludicrous that I'm considering purchasing one as a spare bike or even for parts.
Canyon has a good selection, with lots of price ranges
Would Thru Axl (TA) be important to consider?
Considering a lot of newer riders want a cheaper bike I’m suprised you didn’t put the posiden redwood or x or the state bicycle co 4130. Good list though.
Poseidon Redwood is a little too much bike IMO to be considered a gravel bike. Haven't ridden the X.
Agree budget friendly, so if things don’t work out, you haven't invested too much.
@@kentslonaker7151 if you’re just gonna shit post I’m going to ban you.
I'm an amateur bodybuilder weighing a muscular 5 ft 11 and 235 lbs. I love cycling and don't want a typical MTB, what gravel type bikes would be suggested for someone with strong legs in my size?
It's nice to have a list showing bikes with multiple versions. Something beginners should keep in mind is how up-gradable their bike is. I'm glad that you recommended the Kona 'Rove' instead of the 'Rove AL' base model. I purchased the latter, but found that its components have some major limitations. For example, the rims aren't tubeless compatible, and I've found that the rear hub spacing (135mm) is uncommon for tubeless wheelsets. It would be nicer to have 142mm spacing to open up more tubeless wheel options. Obviously I wasn't thinking of this as a complete novice when I bought the bike. You should totally do a video on the less apparent bike specs that prospective buyers should look out for!
Learn how to build a wheel. It's not rocket science. Lace on a tubeless rim.
OR check out 'ghetto' tubeless. AKA split tube tubeless. That will convert any wheel to tubeless. I use rims that are over 20 years old. I've been doing it for over 20 years. Even on tubeless rims. I haven't gotten a flat in 20 years.
@@rollinrat4850 The thought has occurred to me. Though I would prefer tubeless rims for the peace of mind on long distance trips. I could also change hub end caps to quick release - apparently some thru axle 142 hubs can be converted 135, but I need to look into this more.
@@brambles179 I do long distance trips, for days at a time, in very remote, rough, often rocky places on ghetto tubeless. I'm all on my own with no cell coverage up to a week at a time. Unless I fish for food, that's about the limit of my survival skills and discomfort level. Usually I'm fishin for fun and put them back unless Im really hungry.
I'm just careful and ride pretty conservatively to conserve my tires. I use descents in the mountains mostly to rest. I also want to survive to see my grandchildren one day. But mostly, walking for a few days with a loaded bike just really sucks. Take my word for it...
Once you figure out a good technique and figure out what tires work best on your rims, ghetto is THE MOST reliable tubeless set up that exists. Yeah, it takes a bit more effort (PATIENCE) to set up, especially at 1st. Practice makes perfect.
Theres a good reason I still use this old school method, after 20 years. And I keep a dozen wheels going for all my bikes. DHers we're the first to invent this DIY tubeless set up. Way back when I saw what they were doing and adapted it for my marathon XC and bike packing.
My only bike not using ghetto is a vintage custom steel road bike with nice cotton tires and latex tubes or tubular wheels. I'll take this old bike out in dirt too.
The cool thing about split tube is that it forms a rubber rimstrip which mates perfectly with rubber tires. It's a perfect sealing scenario! Sealant also contains latex rubber to glue everything together. This construction is similar to the construction of a tubular tire. I believe this has benefits in how the tire conforms to the ground. I've raced road and 'cross with tubulars and understand why pro racers still use that archaic technology.
The valve in a split tube set up is integrated into the rim strip, so that potential leak point is completely eliminated.
I'm a long time shop mechanic and a machinist. I've seen most of the different tubeless set ups. I've made the mistakes, learned from them, solved and seen most of the mistakes that can be made with tubeless. I've set up hundreds if not a thousand tubeless set ups over many years. It's easy now.
I use Velocity (USA made!) or H plus Son rims. HED Belgiums are real nice too. Never owned 'em but built lots for customers.
Rene Herse, Vittoria, Donnelly(clement) or Specialized tires fit my set ups best. That's my newer 700c or 29" stuff. All my 26" rims are decades older, mostly non tubeless and narrower, also perfectly reliable tubeless.
The only tubeless issues or failures I've suffered were fault of my own. None were caused by the split tube set up. I either forgot to top up sealant, neglected to air up my tires and rolled or burped a tire, or tore tires on a rock. After 20 years, I can count the number of failures on one hand.
If you're not bored yet and still interested, I'm glad to share my expertise. I'll just warn you that at first split tube tubeless is a learning experience. It definitely requires patience and craftiness. But the rewards are awesome. Tires are our connection with the ground. They make a huge difference. Obviously I'm kinda obsessed with tires. After all these years, it's all 2nd nature to me. It just takes 15 minutes or so per wheel. I also dig 4wd rock crawling. Big Tires at almost no PSI make a huge difference
As someone who’s riding Kona‘s Rove (ST 1x SRAM Rival 1) for three years now, I can fully agree with your summary about it. Not super fast but a joy to ride.
A nice and reasonable overview, liked a lot of the bikes 🙏🏻
Any idea what the weight on the drop bar preamble is?
Can recommend a bike form smaller riders around 1.63m without toe overlap? I can not get over it. Crashed almost 3 times last ride while climbing, slow techy stuff and during track stance 😢
Ive been following Path less pedaled for some tine now.
I love your channel, i have a question, though. What's wrong with fitess bikes? Like the specilized Sirrus. Im seeing similar geometry to the bikes labeled. Gravel. Swap knobbier tires... presto gravel bike. I dont see anyone talking about that. Fitness bikes like the sirrus comes in different trim levels but you can pick up the 2.0. That has hydraulics. For well, under 1000 bucks
So why isn't anyone talking about fitness bikes that are supposed to versatile.
And their potential in the gravel world?
Should the Midnight Special not be on this list? Also please consider doing a video like this for Road + bikes. Thanks and Great Video!!
Why not?
Cross check is not good for gravel, compared to more up to date options. It’s my default bike and the one that’s in the garage year after year, but if you’re worried about crashing on gravel, something like the Libre is way more sure footed.
Could you compare Trek Checkpoint with Trek FX Sport?
Do you recommend a 26" wheel bike? Because i really want one. Touring and bike packing is my mission. I already have 700c, an early 90s Bridgestone RB-T and im in love, but i still want a 26".
Sure.
I love converting old 26" mtbs to drop bars. The handling is killer and you can find them cheap or free. Most of my bikes now have dirt drops. I'm looking for an old Bontrager frame.
I could build a killer gravel bike with an
RB-T frame. Old touring bikes can be built into wonderful off-road bikes as long as fat tires fit.
I often ride an old Miyata fixed gear 'cross bike. It's my favorite bike among a dozen or so.
I'm looking to unload an RB1 frame. I just gave an MB3 singlespeed I built to my nephew. It came out nicer than I intended and pretty darn light. I was sorta thinking I wanted to ride it, but he needs transportation bad.
I've restored several old 90's mtb's and decent 26" rims are almost impossible to find these days. Why I don't know? But if you want decent wheels go for 27.5 /650B especially if you want to run tubeless. It's what I am going to do next. My current all purpose/all terrain bike is a kona dew fs built with a rigid soma carbon fork, 700c wtb rims and 43mm Panaracer gravel king tyres, surly corner bars and a 1x10 microShift adventx drive (hollowtech II bb) 40T to 11-48! Most bike shops keep telling me I'm a medium frame but experience has taught me that a large frame with more stack keeps me more upright and much more comfortable as less pressure on hands and less numbness - one can always lower the saddle, use a super short stem, but getting the bars higher is more difficult without the steerer extensions which I find very ugly. Just my opinion.
Soma Wolverine!!!
I just built up the Type A after chatting a bit with Jim and loving it so far. As always, great content on here Russ.
These prices are crazy!!! 🤯
Great recommendations, but it hurts that you can’t get anything carbon and 11-12 speed for reasonable amounts today. Especially if you know what these bikes costed 2-3 years ago. 🙁
Be patient, buy used. After the Covid bike boom, lots of fickle consumers will be selling or better yet, 'upgrading'. Wait for the 'right sucker'.
The very best deals are in used bikes IF you know what to look for.
Seriously reconsider purchasing plastic bike junk. They're not all that great. You don't 'need' 11 or 12 speeds either. 10 was more than enough.
I used to build carbon aerospace hardware. I'm never buying plastic bike junk. I'm a professional shop mechanic, a retired machinist. Nobody's fooling me.
If you've got money for plastic junk, buy custom steel. It will last far longer and actually has good value IF you ride lots.
would you or do you change out the handlebars ? i run 40cm drop bars on my road bike, but the gravel bikes are showing 44cm for my size?
I run wider bars on gravel bikes. Usually 46 or 48.
ATB version of this next?
I have the opportunity to purchase a Bombtrack Beyond 2 within the same price range as a number of the bikes on the list, does anyone have experience with them?
As the owner of a DSX, I'll say it is a good bike, but it can't really be your only bike as it's a bit of a jack of all trades, master of none. If that's your only bike, soon you'll be craving a faster road or gravel bike, or a more capable mountain bike, or a more comfortable touring bike. it would make a good addition to a fleet of more specialized thoroughbred bikes.
Also, don't get the base model. The base model comes with a crappy aluminium fork that doesn't have clearance to fit fenders with the stock 700Cx45mm tires, even though it has fender mounts as standard. The only way to remedy this is to get narrower tires or swap to 650B wheels. If you want to go with the latter, bear in mind that the base model has quick release axles, so there aren't many options for premium lightweight gravel 650B wheelsets, and you might have to run cheap heavy 27.5" mountain bike wheels instead.
I come from mountain biking so I don’t totally understand the issue, but for a bike to handle the same across sizes, wouldn’t you keep the fork and head tube angle identical and just adjust the head tube length and reach? Does this have something to do with toe overlap on more road style bikes? I see road bikes adjusting the head tube angle measurement across sizes and it leads to wildly different trail figures across sizes, just seems like it should be identical and if toe overlap is an issue, then I could see having 2 forks, one for short riders and one for tall ones, with the tall one having increased offset and a slackened head tube angle to maintain trail figures while moving the front wheel out further
Mountain bikes have long front centers and naturally slacker HTA. Road bikes have much shorter front center and steeper HTAs. To avoid toe overlap you can either increase rake or slacken HTA. Most if not all brands only want to produce one fork. The result is wildly different HTAs.
I've never obsessed on geo too much. I ride whatever's under me at a given moment wherever I wanna go. I really enjoy exploring.
Back in the '70s, few knew what an 'ATB' even was. We rode our steel race bikes off-road way back when. Even with tubular tires.
I still love 'underbiking'. I've been slowly converting all my bikes to dirt drops. Even my 26" MTBs.
It's the RIDER, not the freakin bike!
Im looking for my first gravel bike. First actual adult bike. Im currently between the rove dl and the crosscheck anyone have any feedback. Id like to do gravel road bike camping and probably commuting. Anyone have any feedback
I have a Straggler, which is based on the Crosscheck. You can compare specs on their website to see what is different. Pretty happy with it, though I built mine up from a used frame set, so not the parts you see listed. This is my do-everything bike that I take on vacation.
What would your commute entail? For a congested urban area the Rove wouldn't be my first choice.
Also it appears the Cross Check is in the process of being discontinued according to what dealers are saying online. If true it's kinda sad as the bike has been around so long.
@@hippiebits2071 They have also introduced the Preamble, which appears to be more intended for his purpose than the Cross Check's original purpose.