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Reconing a speaker with unassembled parts.
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2013
- This is part two of How to Repair a Speaker. We sell parts for DIY speaker reconing at www.speakerex.com. Call or email with questions info@speakerex.com or 813-237-4800
lol she said Schmear! The editing of that section is GOLD!
This demo is very easy to understand and follow. With the laptop on the bench I paused between steps and had four perfect recones in about two hours. Thanks.
love to see this effectiv perfect explenation, thanks...
Educational, thank you. BTW, your accent is East Coast but when you said "schmere" the glue. Confirmed!
Bought a recone from you guys a few months ago and gonna attempt to do this
You can do it! rah rah. email me at sales@speakerx.com if you run into any questions or problems.
....... wow.......
What about soldering the coil leads to the tinsel leads to terminals..that's part of the process as well. Kinda think that step should have been before the cone was glued?
You can of course change the order of the steps we suggest, but there is always a reason why we do something in a specific way. In this case, you epoxy the voice coil to spider and wait overnight for all the other adhesives to cure. Then you solder the vc to the pigtail and glue down to the cone before you attach the dustcap. That way if there is any kind of issue, you don't have to figure out if you have a cold solder joint or something else. It would not hurt anything to solder initially but it doesn't hurt anything to wait either.
One thing I don't understand is in many of these videos they say to line up the voice coil wires with what looks like the plus and negative area, but I don't see them actually soldering the voice coil wires. I only see two wires that from the speaker cone soldered. So, do you just leave the voice coil wires dangling or do you solder all four ends (2 from the voice coil and 2 from the speaker cone)?
You must solder the voice coil leads to the pigtail lead that comes through the cone. We suggest you make sure the vc lead is pressed down into the gap from the vc to the cone and up the cone and then solder. (Also glue or epoxy these leads to the cone afterwards.) You must also solder the pigtail lead from the back of the cone to the terminal on the frame and we suggest you make an outward facing "C" curve of these leads before soldering.
What do you think would be best if we have to change the cone ring on a subwoofer, use rubber or foam ring?
It depends on the speaker and the parts availability. Both materials dry rot over time, but the butyl rubber surrounds are limited in size specifications. They do not come in all sizes.
@@cathysatin3342 Thank you my friend, I have old JAMO SW3 with 2x 5incho subwoofer, I ordered rubber and foam, originally had foam so I was wondering if use the foam as it was originally or switch to rubber.. if you where to choose, which would you go for..? Thank you
If it were me, I'd use the polyfoam surround. It is much much easier to work with.
What is correct depth for the voice coil?
That really depends on the particular speaker. A general rule of thumb is to set the voice height so that the amount of windings matches the space on the shims under the voice coil. see picture #6 reconingspeakers.com/faq/reconing-faqs/how-to-diy-recone-with-unassembled-parts/
How thick does the shim need to be?
Use different color shims until you have a nice tight fit on the inside of the voice coil, but still have outside clearance.
TOO MONOTONE. BAD VOICEOVER. This won't help your sales and makes it painful to watch.
Greg Jenkins shut the fuck up. This video is fantastic.
What are you, their producer or director?
I love this company. Extremely thorough demonstration in this video, great products and service, and they've always been super helpful when I had questions or weird speaker rebuilds.
So , like grimdoomsday said, STFU you keyboard-critic bastard.
You're the only one to complain
I understand everything she said. Were you expecting a Broadway musical?