This is exactly the technical experience that needs to be shared. As a little guy that doesn't get to read all the newest info on machines, this is priceless.
Also, I'm new to 4-mix and just got a new fs 131 r bout 10 days ago. My question is, would you recommend 32-40:1 for them aswell? Since they have more areas for carbon to accumulate.
@@aaronpowell4885he recommends amsoil saber 50:1 to chainsaws...I think 50:1 saber for a weedwacker it's good. I recently switched to saber, it's rated up to 100:1...currently doing 70:1 for it to do a "cleanup" of the oils before and will go down to 50:1
@@aaronpowell4885you should run the oil they recommend on those it's expensive stihl motomix...they say those need that gas.i have one in combi versionmotomix.
@@aaronpowell4885 i have a br600 and a fs91r. i run 50:1 with syn. u should adjust your carb a little rich. u will need a - double D adjusting tool -. just google it. i like the homelite one from ebay seller
That’s what you call experience working at its best. You don’t always have to experience something like this if you take the time to listen to the experience of others and then learn from them, make that knowledge your own to be better, and pass it on. That’s why I really enjoy your channel. Thank you, and nice work.
I had somaler issue .same year saw almost identical. Replcaced coil.plugs exctra......brought it to dealership to plug in there firnware ..found out was carburetor clogged.....inalmost bought that white selinoid..the coil was al.ost200...there's isdue with the coil carb and black and green solenoids..white is suppose to fix it..but needs to match ..REDICULOUS saw
I replaced the piston in my 661 that I use for milling. I was running 50:1 since new and I noticed that there was wear on the entire bottom half of the exhaust side and top of intake side. She was starting to rock real good. Switched to HP2 40:1 so we’ll see how long she lasts
@marcusciochina6584 I'm running saber at 75:1 instead of the 80:1 recommendation for peace of mind and no issues on 4th year running it but I'm not one to say have to run this or that for oil, just what I chose to go with and no complaints
@@ChippyOutdoors well I ran 50:1 for like 4 years and had alot of carbon deposit on a different oil ..I'm mostly running a Stihl weedwacker, so more mid to low end rpm's compared to a saw. I ran like 10 L of 80:1 already of saber. At first few litters it felt it used alot more gas, now it's more stable. Now I'm at 78:1 last mix I did....I don't think I will go down less then 70:1 for my weedwacker tho. When I get my chainsaw I might keep different fuel for it tho.
Another good one R, I may have missed this but in testing the tps is there a resistance spec to tell if its good/bad or have I been working on cars too long..? I've been away a while, thank you again for helping us..
I always learn something from your channel. The disappointing thing with Stihl is you learn of all the new technology and then go to a dealer and it‘s like they‘re 6 years behind times and have absolutely no clue what you‘re talking about. That implies to me if they could even repair a product that I may purchase??👍
Slightly off-topic, but I rebuilt an MS-400C recently, and when I went to set the ignition gap, I couldn't find any documentation as to what exactly the gap is supposed to be...even the workshop manual (which I have) simply gives a Stihl P/N and says to use their tool, it doesn't state what the gap is supposed to be...I gapped it at .0012" and it seemed to work fine, but I am still wondering what it's "supposed" to be set to...
Great video. I don't get to work on many modern stihl saws so I just eat this stuff up. Not sure if it's my imagination or bad lighting but at 3:29 the piston rings almost look like victims of four corner scoring from not letting the engine warm up at some point. My question, even if this is not the case, does "four corner scoring" show up on the rings first? I've seen it many times but never at an early stage.
Yes the rings have some unusual wear in the pic. The cylinder looked fine through the plug hole. I did mention he was using this saw to do some milling. Those long full throttle cuts create some serious heat. Or you're may be be onto something with the lack of warm up.
I'm kinda wondering if it's a coil gap problem, been running into a similar with a mower, checked the coil and there was little to no gap less than a thousand, went wide open at 20 thousand same as the plug, much cooler engine now, easy to pull. Has me wondering how much extra heat, historeses is being created for nothing. Just a thought, great videos been watching since the start of the oil series
Yup that's not enough air gap to generate a spark. MTronic and Auto tune actually have a tighter gap as a factory spec. .006"-.008" compared to .010"-.012". I did check the gap and it was in spec.
Has the mdg been useful for any type of trouble shooting or is it basically to see run cycles, hours ect. ? I figured it would at least take some nominal measurements of the sensor to say if it’s good or bad or within limits
Good video. Have you run into this scenario on a 500i? He tells me his 500i shuts off after I let off the trigger and it revs below idle and dies I looked thru the parts diagram and didn’t see how the 500i is set up for the throttle position sensor. Thanks man, good work 😉👍
@@viperstrike3827 it dies on its own, but I’ll ask if he’s ever shut it off before it returned to idle. Is there some system or sensor that it may be learning to automatically shut down ?
The MDG has been helpful to me distinguishing between a carb or solenoid failure. Other than that it’s very vague. On the 500i’s, if it’s a fuel injection issue, you don’t really have much alternative than to plug it in and pray. Great find on that sensor btw.
This is exactly the technical experience that needs to be shared. As a little guy that doesn't get to read all the newest info on machines, this is priceless.
Richard make no mistake. Your not just a mechanic, but a very fine technican!
Came over a year ago for saw help. Stayed for "dry as a popcorn fart ". Thanks, Rich!
I work on my own saws. These videos offer me possibilities of solutions to keep in mind. Thank you 🙌
Always feels good to fix a problem that the dealers couldn't👍🏻
Also, I'm new to 4-mix and just got a new fs 131 r bout 10 days ago. My question is, would you recommend 32-40:1 for them aswell? Since they have more areas for carbon to accumulate.
@@aaronpowell4885he recommends amsoil saber 50:1 to chainsaws...I think 50:1 saber for a weedwacker it's good. I recently switched to saber, it's rated up to 100:1...currently doing 70:1 for it to do a "cleanup" of the oils before and will go down to 50:1
@@aaronpowell4885you should run the oil they recommend on those it's expensive stihl motomix...they say those need that gas.i have one in combi versionmotomix.
@@aaronpowell4885 i have a br600 and a fs91r. i run 50:1 with syn. u should adjust your carb a little rich. u will need a - double D adjusting tool -. just google it. i like the homelite one from ebay seller
Awesome troubleshooting Richard job well done brothet
Great technical video. Keep it up Richard, this is why we come back every time you have a new vid posted 👍
That’s what you call experience working at its best. You don’t always have to experience something like this if you take the time to listen to the experience of others and then learn from them, make that knowledge your own to be better, and pass it on. That’s why I really enjoy your channel. Thank you, and nice work.
Thanks for covering that
Good video and repair Mr. Flagg.
Rich nice troubleshooting 😊😊😊
You da man! 👍🏼
Nice fix. TY for sharing...👍🇺🇸
Schaefers 7000 sale on the big A for 43. Just an fyi. 😊
That's Stihl's JASO FB right there. Mix 2% with JASO FD and you're golden!!
I had somaler issue .same year saw almost identical. Replcaced coil.plugs exctra......brought it to dealership to plug in there firnware ..found out was carburetor clogged.....inalmost bought that white selinoid..the coil was al.ost200...there's isdue with the coil carb and black and green solenoids..white is suppose to fix it..but needs to match ..REDICULOUS saw
👍👍 good stuff.
I replaced the piston in my 661 that I use for milling. I was running 50:1 since new and I noticed that there was wear on the entire bottom half of the exhaust side and top of intake side. She was starting to rock real good. Switched to HP2 40:1 so we’ll see how long she lasts
Probably a lot longer 😎
Watch his video about the amsoil saber oil
@marcusciochina6584 I'm running saber at 75:1 instead of the 80:1 recommendation for peace of mind and no issues on 4th year running it but I'm not one to say have to run this or that for oil, just what I chose to go with and no complaints
@@ChippyOutdoors well I ran 50:1 for like 4 years and had alot of carbon deposit on a different oil ..I'm mostly running a Stihl weedwacker, so more mid to low end rpm's compared to a saw. I ran like 10 L of 80:1 already of saber. At first few litters it felt it used alot more gas, now it's more stable. Now I'm at 78:1 last mix I did....I don't think I will go down less then 70:1 for my weedwacker tho. When I get my chainsaw I might keep different fuel for it tho.
Another good one R, I may have missed this but in testing the tps is there a resistance spec to tell if its good/bad or have I been working on cars too long..? I've been away a while, thank you again for helping us..
You're good, bro.
I always learn something from your channel. The disappointing thing with Stihl is you learn of all the new technology and then go to a dealer and it‘s like they‘re 6 years behind times and have absolutely no clue what you‘re talking about. That implies to me if they could even repair a product that I may purchase??👍
👌🏻👌🏻🤘🏼
Slightly off-topic, but I rebuilt an MS-400C recently, and when I went to set the ignition gap, I couldn't find any documentation as to what exactly the gap is supposed to be...even the workshop manual (which I have) simply gives a Stihl P/N and says to use their tool, it doesn't state what the gap is supposed to be...I gapped it at .0012" and it seemed to work fine, but I am still wondering what it's "supposed" to be set to...
I’ll have a completely random guess (I’m 0.23 seconds in) wiring harness for the m-tronic either worn, damaged or loose?
Fantastic video Richard, not heard about that before, thanks for sharing!
Great video. I don't get to work on many modern stihl saws so I just eat this stuff up. Not sure if it's my imagination or bad lighting but at 3:29 the piston rings almost look like victims of four corner scoring from not letting the engine warm up at some point. My question, even if this is not the case, does "four corner scoring" show up on the rings first? I've seen it many times but never at an early stage.
Yes the rings have some unusual wear in the pic. The cylinder looked fine through the plug hole. I did mention he was using this saw to do some milling. Those long full throttle cuts create some serious heat. Or you're may be be onto something with the lack of warm up.
I'm kinda wondering if it's a coil gap problem, been running into a similar with a mower, checked the coil and there was little to no gap less than a thousand, went wide open at 20 thousand same as the plug, much cooler engine now, easy to pull. Has me wondering how much extra heat, historeses is being created for nothing. Just a thought, great videos been watching since the start of the oil series
Yup that's not enough air gap to generate a spark. MTronic and Auto tune actually have a tighter gap as a factory spec. .006"-.008" compared to .010"-.012". I did check the gap and it was in spec.
Has the mdg been useful for any type of trouble shooting or is it basically to see run cycles, hours ect. ? I figured it would at least take some nominal measurements of the sensor to say if it’s good or bad or within limits
I went years without the MDG1 until the 500i"s came out. It has been very helpful with them. Not so much for the MTronic saws.
My 500i will die occasionally after running full throttle then letting off, but it’s like a once every few month thing
That's strange.
Good video. Have you run into this scenario on a 500i?
He tells me his 500i shuts off after I let off the trigger and it revs below idle and dies
I looked thru the parts diagram and didn’t see how the 500i is set up for the throttle position sensor.
Thanks man, good work 😉👍
I haven't had that issue with a 500i yet.
Is he letting it come back down to idle before he kills it?
@@viperstrike3827 it dies on its own, but I’ll ask if he’s ever shut it off before it returned to idle. Is there some system or sensor that it may be learning to automatically shut down ?
For the algorithm
MDG is overpriced and overrated... nice diag
It has only been truly helpful on the 500i's. There's a lot more going on with those. For the MTronic saws, it hasn't been a whole lot of help.
The MDG has been helpful to me distinguishing between a carb or solenoid failure. Other than that it’s very vague. On the 500i’s, if it’s a fuel injection issue, you don’t really have much alternative than to plug it in and pray. Great find on that sensor btw.
You’re a dude, fo sho. 🤠