Shimano 105 R7000 Braze On Front Derailleur Fitting Guide
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- čas přidán 23. 03. 2019
- Shimano 105 R7000 Braze-On Front Derailleur Fitting Guide.
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Thanks for watching. - Sport
I came here because the on line instructions by Shimano are not very clear for the step described at 3:30. However, I note here the entire derailleur is pushed to obtain the 0.5-1 mm gap at the rear end. I do not like that, as I am afraid to bend the entire assembly. I thought one uses the front main mounting bolt to obtain this rotation.
Apart from this, the video is great and helpful. Thanks!
You sir are an absolute life saver. Tried to lower the front mech on my new bike, which looked so easy and managed to totally mess things up. Spent 2 hours messing around making it worse, couldn’t find a relevant video but luckily found yours in the end. Followed your instructions to the letter and hey presto! My mech is working brilliantly! Many thanks.
WOW! No glitz, no glamour, first 30 secs or so you may wonder if this is going to be worthwhile. Where’s the bike outfits? The fancy shop? And he’s dressed for what, sweeping driveways? And why the gloves with the new mech? BUT THIS IS GREAT - the most clear, the best video, best explanations, best pace. FTC I am a fan! Highly recommended if you actually want to learn something, not just think you may have.
I would like to thank you for the helpfull video's on the 105 groupset installation. I finished building my bike yesterday with no prior experience. The bike looks great and rides even better. Hats off to you sir 👍
Brilliant and patient video, thanks for posting, you covered all the important bits in perfect order. You should ring Shimano and offer to write their manual for them, at least everyone would understand it then 🙂
Best videos out there!
Saved my backside yet again. Thank you!
Thank you very much friend. I was going nuts with the installation, but now it’s looks so easy. Best regards.
Awesome video thank you so much! I couldn't even figure out where the main cable bolt was 😅.
This was a life saver. I winged my adjustment but this covers all the specifics, gotta redo my setup
Mate. Thumbs up best straight to the point how to videos. Helped me many times. Keep on please ura star
Excellent clear and concise video. Installed one of these using the Shimano instructions, but they didn't show some of the things you mentioned clearly. Very useful and informative. Thanks.
Huge help thanks so much! Way better than the Shimano instructions! Cheers!
Thanks for this. Always well filmed and easy to understand!
Thanks!!!! you saved my Saturday ride!
Thanks! A lot clearer than looking at the manual.
Wow, that was excellent, thank you! Your step by step directions worked perfect. What a difference between a 5800 and the 7000. The 7000 is so much better.
Best bike instructional videos going! Thank you!
Great video. I keep coming back to this one. Awesome info. I was doing it completely wrong.
Again simple and thorough explanation :)
I’m a great fan of your work
Thanks
Mark glad you find the videos helpful. Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and skills - so helpful!!
Massive thanks, these videos have been so helpful
Thank you so much !!!
You have helped us!!!
I’m from Ukraine. In my town nobody know this information. only you could explain.
Good luck!!!
Thanks, Mate! Your videos are matter-of-fact, and give a bike build novice like myself great information, the front derailleur has always been a challenge (PITA). I also sent you a contribution, keep up the great videos!
Thanks! Glad you find the videos helpful.
Thank you! Very well done and great video! Helped me a lot!
excellent video. very helpful and detailed explanation! Well done!!
Again. Another amazing video.
Awesome video / saved me today! Cheers mate
Clear n simple instructions. 👍
Thank you so much! Very helpful!
Another excellent video, thank you. I had tried following the Shimano instructions but this video make it so much easier!
awesome video really helped!!!
Thanks, didn't know about the guideline. New bike and after a few rides they were out of line, (H/L adjustments couldn't cure the rub) perhaps new cables stretching. All sorted, great help.
Same problem for me... new bike, and after a few rides the chain rubs the derailleur... i hope i will manage to align it
Thank you again for this video. 👍
Useful video but I agree with others that Shimano made this particular front derraileur far to complicated.
Earlier this year one your videos was invaluable in enabling me to replace my rear mech cable. Now I’m doing the front, an R7000 105 (braze mount) on a Canyon bike. What was not covered in this video was the route for running the cable from the exit point of the frame to the derailleur. While the guide and channel near the top are self evident, I’m a wee bit unsure about placement before that. A wrong way is possible, but what’s the right way? Thanks in advance! Cheers!
Thank you!
great content!
nice translation from Japanese English to English English - Thanks.
Thanx man really helped. I saved my money.
saved me a trip to my LBS and $40!
Show meu Brother..
Muito bem explicado.👏👏👏
Thank you!!
i made sure there was no slack in the cable but I still had to tighten the little tension bolt all the way in and it only just aligned the two white lines, so I basically have no tension adjustment. Luckily its all shifting ok.
I followed your video exactly but I don't have a plier to install the derailleur without the chain. With the chain it won't click into the right position to adjust. When shifting up and down into middle position. Can you adjust it with chain on?
thanks a lot for this - sorted me out!
Questions what type of crankset did you have on a bike?
Is brazed on can be a clamp one just put separate clamp from shimano?
Are these compatible with Shimano 2x10 road bike setups? Thanks!
I set my derailleur up like this and got the cable tension spot on the line. I then adjusted H and L limit so that I got perfect smooth running with nu rub even when almost completely cross chained. My only observation is that the chain doesn't shift up to the large cog unless I push the shifter all the way up to the top adjustment position and skip the top trim position (1 down from the top). So basically when I'm in the middle cogs on the rear cassette and want the large cog on front I have to shift up and then down into the top trim position. I can't just shift up into the top trim position directly and stay there.
I think that's normal, it's a 2 speed dual shifter with "trim"- my Sora and Tiagra do the same- from the 34T you can go up and down "trim", but changing to the 50T it's all the way and needs a click back down for the lower range at the back... (I'm starting to wonder if I really don't use the 34T enough anyway, always end up in the 50/32 going uphills when the 34T front would give me closer ratios at the back.....)
07:45 after you pulled cable & tightened pinch bolt your pinch bolt area lies flat and then tips when you move to big ring on the lever. That doesnt happen for me. As some as ive tightened pinch bolt it tips up in the air therefore trying to move to big ring is not going to do anything. Any suggestions?
Hi good nigth friend,How do I install this gearbox on the frame where the cable comes from above?
Really good guide, was about to take to LBS since this new design looked so confusing compared to earlier designs, thanks to you it isn't!
My derailleur came with the groupset without packaging, it either didn't come with the tab or I can't find it, do you have any idea where to find a replacement?
www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-ultegra-fdr8000-support-bolt-plate-y2ba98020/
Need desperate help. Top part where you pinch the inner cable. On mine it's lose and when shifting just stays at angle - 45 degree or so. Meaning I can lift it with my fingers. Is this a bad derailleur?
Hi I need to replace my front the advert says "For use with 105 ST-5700 or Ultegra ST-6700 shifters only" Will a trigger shifter work with these?
Hello. What height will be good for this plate behind shifter?
Great video thanks! What's the purpose of the "mini shift down"? Is the cage supposed to move a fraction inboard so you can use front/rear combos that would normally cause rub? When I do that mini shift my cage doesn't move.
The mini shift is used to set the cable tension and has nothing to do with actual gear shifting!
@@FreeToCycle Ah thanks, I used your video to readjust my front mech after spending hours playing with it because I suddenly couldn't shift to the big chainring. Then I found another video showing a design flaw in a tiny piece of plastic in the R7000 shifter - it's not thick enough to hit with the steel control lever at the right moment and I needed to make it thicker. Some people have had it just fall out.
will it works with 3 plats?
Thanks!
Hi, when I try to move the outer cage in inside the chainring it seems like it doesn’t want to move no matter how hard I try. What am I doing wrong
When you did the L-limit screw adjustment, was the derailleur in the innermost position (ie the L-trim position)? There is an extra click of the shifter after shifting into the smaller chainring which got me confused.
Yes it’s in the lowest position!
Spot on video, unboxed my (£299!!!) 105 groupset (rim brakes) today, looked at the front mech and was like "huh?" Could not figure it out didn't know the plastic part pulled off the pinch bolt, and no idea about the routing! I thought the sticky-on frame tab was mainly for carbon bikes, but I suppose it protects the frame, it's on my Sora R3000 F/D too, but the instructions were to just tighten it in until it barely touches the frame and acts as a brace, not to preload it and move the mech?? Also another question about once the gears are set and all inners are bedded in to the outers, could you cut the inner so it is inside the push on plastic cover and doesn't do the usual stick out bit with ferrule that always seems to rub on something!?
The Shimano manual for this mech says pretty much the same as this video - get the front of the cage parallel with the big ring with the tail angled in slightly, then push the tail out using the support bolt against the frame tab. This style of mech really needs it to stop it flexing too much because the cable tension is pretty high. And that tiny support bolt will over time burrow into an ally or steel frame if you don't use the plate. As to the final routing I use the plastic cover and don't use the ferrule, just put a dab of super glue on the end of the cable. But ultimately whether you've got clearance will depend on your frame geo, tyre size, and whether you're running mudguards.
@@ajwitt7472 Thanks for that info!
When did these get so complicated? Used to be you put it on, lined up the cage parallel adjusted upper and lower limits stretched the new cable readjust the tension and you’re done. All the extra screws and push plate add what to the function? Shimano used to be the go to for user friendly function although you could never service the stuff if it broke.
It's to give improved clearance for disc brakes, wide tyres, and mudguards. The old long arm design (which was great) sometimes struggled to clear a 32mm tyre plus mudguard. I remember needing to notch a mudguard on my 5800 cross bike (32mm tyres) because of it
hate this derailleaur.....tried to set it up 2 times from zero and on bike stand it shifts well but while riding its always rubs somewhere. Old ones was a 5 min job
my front shift is a bastard to shift up from small cog to large - shifter runs free when I disconnect the cable
My groupset is r7000 and r8000 11speed mix. is it possible to use r71000 12spd crank to my current 11speed groupset?
Yes!
@@FreeToCycle thanks to response sir ridesafe
What is the shifter position before fixing the cable?
Set on the inner chainring.
I wished i watched your video before swearing at the cable routing and myself for taking that apart.
Can you suggest how to get rid of the middle position? It feels like it misses a gear when shifting and it’s rather annoying.
Sorry but I can’t make it work. There are too many screws that I don’t know how to deal with. Should this we screwed in, out. I fix a thing a break another.
Off to the lbs I go…
No matter how much I tighten that screw the white lines won't touch.
I have the same problem now, did you manage to solve it? Is it down to tension?
Same, did you ever figure it out?
@@UnrealSquare no sorry, still can't get it to align
@@UnrealSquare yeah me either
White lines still don't match up no matter what I do but it's shifting fine so I guess I'm just ignoring the white lines, ha. Wish I had the answer though.