One more thing to remember about IBIS/OIS on Fuji cameras - if you use a stabilized lens and switch off the OIS on your lens by toggling the physical button, you won't benefit from IBIS anymore either, because the camera thinks you want to put it on a tripod so it will turn off both OIS and IBIS for you. You're welcome.
@@donaldbradley278 I believe so. I discovered this while trying to see what IBIS *alone* can do to my stabilized lens if I turn off OIS. And as soon as I did on my X-T4, the hand shake icon appeared on the LCD/EVF signaling I have no stabilization whatsoever. And the photos were very telling at slower shutter speeds. And I thought on it long and hard and it's the only plausible explanation I could find as to why they did this.
@@root9065 I checked this out also and you're absolutely correct. IBIS alone appears to only be possible with a non-stabilized lens such as my Viltrox 23 mm or 13 mm lenses or my 50 mm Fuji lens. As soon as I put on the Fuji 55-200 or 18-55 lens, I can only get IBIS when the OIS switch on the lens is switched to the 'ON' position. Thanks for pointing this out. Probably 95% of my shots are with my non-stabilized primes, so I rely a lot on IBIS, and I've been happy with it. I shoot very little video so that's not really a factor for me.
Thank you, amazing video as usual. It amazes me how this concept is not more common. Many people decided to get the camera with IBIS so they could "slow the shutter speed in the low light." Yes, you could shoot with 1/5th and keep your ISO relatively low, but if you try to get a street shot with people moving, everything will be blurry. If you want to freeze the moment, you need fast glasses, that's what they're designed to do; capture a lot of light so you can use faster shutter speed.
Another thing you actually taught me from video and photo discussion, pictures will look more natural and fun, if technical flawed, when you shoot motion at a low enough shutter to see the motion blur. So for kids, you may not have perfect focus but with ibs or lense stabilization, you can limit yourself to just get the motion blur which may be artistically better, I.e. capture the moment better tho with a “technically flawed” image.
Thank you for the video! Here are some protips for the really low shutter speeds aqquired trough researching and experimenting: #1. Use a steady two-handed grip with and shoot with the EFV #2. Use the fully electronic shutter #3. Use burst or a 2 second self-timer. I got to 1/2 second with 35mm lens on an X-t4. Happy snapping!
There are two problems with fuji IBIS for video. The first could fix the second. 1. You can't turn off ibis and use lens stabilization alone. The manual switches and camera settings menu both treat them as if they were inseparable. 2. The IBIS is great for holding a steady shot, but if you're panning or moving. It 'jerks' quite a bit. At times It feels like I'd be better off with an older camera and no IBIS so I could just rely on the lens. Then other times, the IBIS is great.. Being able to operate them independently would be fantastic
@@simontompson I ended up rigging my camera out. But then again, lugging v-mounts, rods, and monitors would look absolutely ridiculous on vacation so I wish Fujifilm could fix it via firmware.
exactly, I am returning my XT4 because of how bad the ibis is and C-AF isnt great either. The only reason I purchased it over BMPCC4K is these two features, and they obviously mis advertised them both. Might as well not have both of these than have this half assed executed features that are nothing but a struggle.
I really like and use the IBIS in the GFX 100s, either photos, and video, and surprisingly, this beast camera perform as a real monster for video too, either vlogging or filming, I am preparing a vlog about it
I’m a photography newbie and have been spending waaaaay too much time debating if I do or don’t need IBIS. Your explanation with the turtle was super helpful 😂 Thank you so much! I have no use for filming videos, so I think IBIS will not be super necessary for me.
You mentioned raising shutter speed, or adding more light or ISO is the only way to help freeze fast subject movement. Don't forget you can fix a subjects motion blur by tracking it properly. That's how you get those race car pictures where the subject is crisp and the background is blurred. It's not very easy, but it's doable.
Great explanations as always. PTT rocks. BTW, to complete my shooting kit, I prefer Basil Hayden over Woodford Reserve. You'll find it creates even greater stabilization!
I love IBIS, especially when I'm using my Leica or Contax lenses on my X-H1 or X-T4. I feel like I'm getting the best of old school and modern tech all at the same time. I really love using my old Contax glass on those cameras.
On point. Great explanation. But any thoughts for lownlight settings (star shots, milky way). Torn if I'm going XT3 or XT4 with 95% of the time doing still photography
Thank you so much Chris for this video that is more than helpful for me and comes just in the right moment. I am thinking about getting a GFX50 in addition to my X-T4 and haven't been sure if the 50R or 50S II would be better the better choice for me. There is so much I like about the 50R like the lighter weight, the top dial, the smaller size or the rangefinder style and even the price but... it has no ibis. I was wondering if it would be worth to trade the ibis for all the rest. Your video gave me the the answer. So again, thank you!
I think it's important to mention setting adapter mm when using ibis with manual 3rd party lenses like a vintage Pentax 50mm, or a Minolta 135mm 2.8, explaining why this setting must be correctly entered..
Indeed, that's why I acquired the T4. Specifically for use with vintage telephoto lenses. I gain 2 stops on a 180 mm: 1/60 instead of 1/250. 3 stops is somewhat borderline.
What about the setting «continuous» and «shooting only»? In my mind continuous is for video only, or if you are using a tele lens, but are there any advantages of using «shooting only» other than (I assume) reduced battery drain?
I've turned IBIS off on my XT-4. When shooting video, it introduces mechanical jerks to your footage. The IBIS seems to fight movement, especially panning. You can actually see it happen a couple of times in your example when holding the camera still. Using a gimbal with IBIS off seems to be the only solution for panning footage. I really wish the IBIS was better
Unfortunately due to the size constraints that IBIS must be implemented into (small sensor space), it will never be on par, or even close to the level of stabilization that gimbals have. The sensor can only shift so much in any given direction, and from there it must return to its original position at some point, which generates this jerky movement. Not only that, but on wide lenses it's nauseating to see image warping effects that are caused by IBIS. Video users only benefit from IBIS at mid-range focal lengths (35mm-70mm eq.) when shooting handheld. Many people think that IBIS benefits video users more than photo, but it's actually the other way around. At least from my experience.
@@Bocsaphoto Yeah but couldn't have been there a way for the software to make this "return to orginal position" a bit more smoother? honestly i wish there was some sort of tweakable settings for the ibis so that it wouldnt be so jerky. even worse, on xt4 its as if the ibis only works properly when you are shooting landscape video. i sometimes have to deliver vertical videos for clients and ibis jerkiness is almost makes the camera unusable
@@Bocsaphoto Totally agree - I have given up panning too much. I think most other cameras with IBIS are the same - I don't think the X-H2S has solved it either from what I have heard. However, my father has a Sony AX700 Camcorder, and the image stabilisation mechanism is totally different, and does not suffer any of the problems I have. Problem is, the image quality is not quite as good (although it is pretty impressive). It is all a balance of what is more important to you.
Great vid, as usual! i have a couple questions: if doing long exposures on a tri-pod do you turn IBIS off and the lens OIS off?. Also during hand held shooting do you need to turn on lens OIS if you have IBIS on?
Hello, I love your video but I'm having trouble with my Fujifilm X-a5. I really want to shoot a video where the camera is still and the subject is moving, however I'm having trouble getting the correct setting for this. My videos always come out wobbly or some weird slowmo. Would you be able to explain to me what setting I can use so this works for me? Big thanks in advance😊
If I have IBIS on XT5 and the 18-55 lens with OIS. Does the IBIS get turned off when I turn on OIS on the lens, and vice versa? PS... I also notice some IBS settings are greyed out when I have the lens OIS turned on
Hi Chris, would you (or someone) please explain the various settings of IBIS? I have 4 options (X-S10) and don't really understand the difference 1) continuous + motion 2) continuous 3) shooting + motion 4) shooting only Thanks a lot for your videos and the energy you invest into the channel!
@@tomdavistomdavis6306 What about panning though? I have never thougth of it that way, but maybe it makes sense. I did notice the strange toggling in the videos. I will have to check various settings and make sure to get the best out of IBIS/OIS when making videos as well.
@@bhamerlik The shutter speed is automatically increased when the camera detects movement, but I haven't tried it while panning. (This function is not available on pal2tech's X-T4, which is why he does not know about it).
Great, now I want a system in my camera that can actually freeze all the people around me - wouldn't that be awesome? Seriously though, very good point, it's one of those seemingly obvious things that are deceptively easy to overlook.
Could you create a video about IBIS specifically in video, not photography? - especially with things like wide lenses, it seems this is Fuji's achilles heel, you're much better off turning it off with anything below 14mm really, or you get horrible wobbly/warpy corners, even in static shots.
Great video as always! Thank you so much. I learn alot from you. I have a question about IBIS and OIS.. Why is it that the photo is blurry when I take a picture on a tripod if OIS and IBIS is turned on? (xt4 and 18-55) thanks again. 😊
Thanks for the super clear explanation. Just one doubt i would greatly appreciate clarified. Would the end result from an IBIS supported body (like the XT4 or XS10) with an IBIS enabled lens be better than that from a body (like the XT3)? Or is it enough for only an IBIS enabled lens to give similar results? The reason i am asking this is I am looking to buy the XT3 but, superior, as it is, it still does not have IBIS that the XS10 has. I am going to be using it mostly for photography and not much video but am still keen to get good results in low light. Thanks!
Not sure about Fuji, however in some Canon cameras like my R6, if you do not attach a lens with built-in IS, the IBIS can compensate up to 5 EV. My RF 24-105 F4 lens has an IS system that can compensate up to 5EV when you attach it to a body that does not have IBIS. Now if you put both together, the R6 and the 24-105 will yield a total compensation of 8EV (This is of course as per CIPA ratings provided by Canon). So for some gear, yes having an IBIS body and an IS lens will yield better compensation. Furthermore, most lenses IS systems will compensate for shakes on 2 axis, and most IBIS systems will compensate on 4-5 axis. Not sure about Fuji, but I think it should function the same.
Stabilizing my XT3 was a challenge. I’d punch the air for deciding against the a7III. But I got right down to work, and eventually became a Jedi. Now I don’t even touch the camera, I move it with my mind.
Gracias por la gran sugerencia. Ahora estoy trabajando con una empresa para pagarles por traducir. Es mucho trabajo, así que tengo que encontrar una empresa que pueda hacer esto por mí regularmente. El español es mi primera opción para agregar como idioma adicional a la traducción.
you realize that the setting for IBIS continuous setting is only for shooting video, your not suppose to use continuous for shooting stills in fact that can introduce a fuzzy picture because the ibis on continuous is well continuously moving to what your movement.. So just to let you know that continuous setting is ONLY for VIDEO NOT for Still Pictures.. so for pictures you set it to shooting only. Many people use IBIS and also lens stabilization incorrectly and cause more problems..
I have a 70*300 on my x-t4 and the lens doesnt have an OIS switch. I have realised that when panning to shoot moving subjects my IBIS/OIS ınterferes with my shots. Also in movie mode you can see clear LEAPING effect caused by IBIS/OIS. How do you overcome this issue?
You can't really. The best you can do is try to pan slow enough that it doesn't leap 🐌 🐌 🐌 🐌 Or try to pan at a consistent speed so it only jerks at the start and end.. But if you're following a subject you just have to deal with however they move. I shoot weddings so the panning thing has been an issue for me (following all the bridal party as they walk the aisle) The best advice I have is, if you neeeeed it to be smooth smooth. Use a gimbal (with ibis off)
@@JackieDElia Yes, the OIS in the Fujinon xf lenses is amazing. The first time I tried it on my xf 18-135mm I just couldn't believe how effective the OIS was. Even at 135mm I could still produce sharp photographs at 1/100s handheld.
Question - regarding IBIS and TRIPOD. So there's a belief that you should remember to turn IBIS off when camera is totally still, like on a tripod. Because IBIS might actually try to counteract something when there's nothing to counteract. Has anybody tested this? True or doesn't matter? Of course - it's not a problem to turn IBIS off, but as I usually have it on by default, sometimes I might forget to turn it off when placing on tripod. / GFX 50s II.
Good question, I'm also interested in what people think about this. Personally I've tried slow speeds on a tripod with IBIS both on and off, and have never detected any difference
@@marccabuy926 Often, for video, I need to see it continuously changing focus ahead of time. also, for when I'm testing lenses. I'm worst person to ask, LOL, as I'm not your normal use case! 😲
@@pal2tech thank you Chris. For stills I currently use it in 'shooting only '. If it is in continuous with a telephoto prime thé image in the EVF and on the LCD is also stabilized. And perhaps you gain a bit in stabilisation. But that latter is an assumption.
2:17 - Look, I just flipped the switch (flipped, flipped) I don't know nobody else that's doin' this Bodies start to drop, ayy, hit the floor Now they wanna know me since I hit the top
The IBIS on an XT4 will actually do a lot better than that. I am elderly and dont need coffee to make my hands shake and recntly was taking some ICM photos at 1 sec with my 16-55 lens (No IS) on my XT4 admittadly at 19mm and wanted a reference shot of the scene and took it at the 1 sec It was a forrestry situation and the shot was perfectly sharp including leaves on trees.
2022 and my IBIS in XT4 is absolute shit for video, unusable. Bad enough to think of returning this camera... THe shit drifting ALL THE DAMN TIME, it is crazy how they even realeased the product that functions that bad.
@@joefratt yeah, it’s jittery, has warping in the corners that looks like digital IS even when all that is turned off. was very disappointed. It’s great for photos but terrible for video especially smooth tracking shots.
@@joefratt nope, i’m using the fuji 16-55 2.8 without OIS so the ibis is the only stabilisation factor and looks terrible, looks just as bad with an ois lens too when i tried
What annoys me about Fuji is that in the past they've said they could not put IBIS on their cameras as it would loose image quality. That was some major BS as we now see most new cameras with IBIS on their line-up. X-T3 should have come with IBIS! And worse of all, is that Fuji IBIS is not that great. Like you I can manage 1/10-1/15 shot on my X-T4, but my cheap bottom of the range E-M10 mkII from Olympus managed 1sec and sometimes 2!
MFTs have excellent IBIS, but the sensor is also much smaller. I agree that Fuji seems to have a jerky looking IS. I had Panasonic G9, and I think it too had an excellent IBIS, but finally, the look, feel, and colors of Fuji had me switch to XT3. I like the camera, but now and then, I miss the G9 IS. 🙂
Not sure but the camera lensflange distance to a sensor corner is probably introducing limitations in available space to compensate for handheld movement.
One more thing to remember about IBIS/OIS on Fuji cameras - if you use a stabilized lens and switch off the OIS on your lens by toggling the physical button, you won't benefit from IBIS anymore either, because the camera thinks you want to put it on a tripod so it will turn off both OIS and IBIS for you. You're welcome.
Seriously? I've not heard that before. Does that apply to all Fuji cameras using IBIS?
@@donaldbradley278 I believe so. I discovered this while trying to see what IBIS *alone* can do to my stabilized lens if I turn off OIS. And as soon as I did on my X-T4, the hand shake icon appeared on the LCD/EVF signaling I have no stabilization whatsoever. And the photos were very telling at slower shutter speeds. And I thought on it long and hard and it's the only plausible explanation I could find as to why they did this.
@@root9065 I checked this out also and you're absolutely correct. IBIS alone appears to only be possible with a non-stabilized lens such as my Viltrox 23 mm or 13 mm lenses or my 50 mm Fuji lens. As soon as I put on the Fuji 55-200 or 18-55 lens, I can only get IBIS when the OIS switch on the lens is switched to the 'ON' position. Thanks for pointing this out. Probably 95% of my shots are with my non-stabilized primes, so I rely a lot on IBIS, and I've been happy with it. I shoot very little video so that's not really a factor for me.
bruuuhhhhh...thank you for this one little detail. I'm new to fuji and thought my camera was broke
still amazed how you always find something new to talk about 😲
Thank you for explaining the blurry situation. I couldn’t figure it out! You helped so much thank you!
Thank you, amazing video as usual. It amazes me how this concept is not more common. Many people decided to get the camera with IBIS so they could "slow the shutter speed in the low light." Yes, you could shoot with 1/5th and keep your ISO relatively low, but if you try to get a street shot with people moving, everything will be blurry. If you want to freeze the moment, you need fast glasses, that's what they're designed to do; capture a lot of light so you can use faster shutter speed.
Personable, approachable, and entertaining as ever!
Thanks for doing all you do, you beautiful gecko!
I bought a XT-4 with the information I got from your channel! Thank you
Hi Chris Thanks you for the perfectly clear explanations of the ibis take care
Another thing you actually taught me from video and photo discussion, pictures will look more natural and fun, if technical flawed, when you shoot motion at a low enough shutter to see the motion blur. So for kids, you may not have perfect focus but with ibs or lense stabilization, you can limit yourself to just get the motion blur which may be artistically better, I.e. capture the moment better tho with a “technically flawed” image.
So simple, so awesome! Thank you
Another super informative video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the video! Here are some protips for the really low shutter speeds aqquired trough researching and experimenting: #1. Use a steady two-handed grip with and shoot with the EFV #2. Use the fully electronic shutter #3. Use burst or a 2 second self-timer. I got to 1/2 second with 35mm lens on an X-t4. Happy snapping!
There are two problems with fuji IBIS for video. The first could fix the second.
1. You can't turn off ibis and use lens stabilization alone. The manual switches and camera settings menu both treat them as if they were inseparable.
2. The IBIS is great for holding a steady shot, but if you're panning or moving. It 'jerks' quite a bit.
At times It feels like I'd be better off with an older camera and no IBIS so I could just rely on the lens.
Then other times, the IBIS is great..
Being able to operate them independently would be fantastic
Agree 100%. Also it would be nice to be able to engage/disengage stabilization while recording.
Yep, the jerkiness from moving/panning does spoil the video shooting experience, and I'd love to know how others deal with this.
Yeah I hate that fuji doesnt let you micro manage this stuff.
@@simontompson I ended up rigging my camera out. But then again, lugging v-mounts, rods, and monitors would look absolutely ridiculous on vacation so I wish Fujifilm could fix it via firmware.
exactly, I am returning my XT4 because of how bad the ibis is and C-AF isnt great either. The only reason I purchased it over BMPCC4K is these two features, and they obviously mis advertised them both. Might as well not have both of these than have this half assed executed features that are nothing but a struggle.
This episode was proudly sponsored by Nescafe ☕ Nescafe, the brand that puts more IBIS into your coffee bean. 😋🍵
LOL, exactly.
I really like and use the IBIS in the GFX 100s, either photos, and video, and surprisingly, this beast camera perform as a real monster for video too, either vlogging or filming, I am preparing a vlog about it
Great video!
You explained this very well.
Thank you Jackie!!!
As someone who mostly uses the 80mm with OIS this was useful but I'd love a video digging into how OBIS and OIS work together if they do at all.
I’m a photography newbie and have been spending waaaaay too much time debating if I do or don’t need IBIS. Your explanation with the turtle was super helpful 😂 Thank you so much! I have no use for filming videos, so I think IBIS will not be super necessary for me.
You mentioned raising shutter speed, or adding more light or ISO is the only way to help freeze fast subject movement. Don't forget you can fix a subjects motion blur by tracking it properly. That's how you get those race car pictures where the subject is crisp and the background is blurred. It's not very easy, but it's doable.
Great explanations as always. PTT rocks. BTW, to complete my shooting kit, I prefer Basil Hayden over Woodford Reserve. You'll find it creates even greater stabilization!
I love IBIS, especially when I'm using my Leica or Contax lenses on my X-H1 or X-T4. I feel like I'm getting the best of old school and modern tech all at the same time. I really love using my old Contax glass on those cameras.
Another great video, Chris, cheers! Now what about using a tripod with IBIS on?
On point. Great explanation. But any thoughts for lownlight settings (star shots, milky way). Torn if I'm going XT3 or XT4 with 95% of the time doing still photography
IBIS does help with the 90mm for people shots though :)
Great and concise video!
Thank you so much Chris for this video that is more than helpful for me and comes just in the right moment. I am thinking about getting a GFX50 in addition to my X-T4 and haven't been sure if the 50R or 50S II would be better the better choice for me. There is so much I like about the 50R like the lighter weight, the top dial, the smaller size or the rangefinder style and even the price but... it has no ibis. I was wondering if it would be worth to trade the ibis for all the rest. Your video gave me the the answer. So again, thank you!
So, that's why my videos a little bit jerky. I was looking for the answer for month. thank you so much
I think it's important to mention setting adapter mm when using ibis with manual 3rd party lenses like a vintage Pentax 50mm, or a Minolta 135mm 2.8, explaining why this setting must be correctly entered..
Indeed, that's why I acquired the T4. Specifically for use with vintage telephoto lenses. I gain 2 stops on a 180 mm: 1/60 instead of 1/250. 3 stops is somewhat borderline.
@@marccabuy926 Here'a a question...should we set the mm adapter setting for what the lens becomes on a Fuji body, or what the lens is....
@@sclogse1 Just enter the focal length as is.
A little reminder that I need to have
What about the setting «continuous» and «shooting only»? In my mind continuous is for video only, or if you are using a tele lens, but are there any advantages of using «shooting only» other than (I assume) reduced battery drain?
I've turned IBIS off on my XT-4. When shooting video, it introduces mechanical jerks to your footage. The IBIS seems to fight movement, especially panning. You can actually see it happen a couple of times in your example when holding the camera still. Using a gimbal with IBIS off seems to be the only solution for panning footage. I really wish the IBIS was better
Unfortunately due to the size constraints that IBIS must be implemented into (small sensor space), it will never be on par, or even close to the level of stabilization that gimbals have. The sensor can only shift so much in any given direction, and from there it must return to its original position at some point, which generates this jerky movement. Not only that, but on wide lenses it's nauseating to see image warping effects that are caused by IBIS. Video users only benefit from IBIS at mid-range focal lengths (35mm-70mm eq.) when shooting handheld. Many people think that IBIS benefits video users more than photo, but it's actually the other way around. At least from my experience.
@@Bocsaphoto Yeah but couldn't have been there a way for the software to make this "return to orginal position" a bit more smoother? honestly i wish there was some sort of tweakable settings for the ibis so that it wouldnt be so jerky.
even worse, on xt4 its as if the ibis only works properly when you are shooting landscape video. i sometimes have to deliver vertical videos for clients and ibis jerkiness is almost makes the camera unusable
@@Bocsaphoto Totally agree - I have given up panning too much. I think most other cameras with IBIS are the same - I don't think the X-H2S has solved it either from what I have heard. However, my father has a Sony AX700 Camcorder, and the image stabilisation mechanism is totally different, and does not suffer any of the problems I have. Problem is, the image quality is not quite as good (although it is pretty impressive). It is all a balance of what is more important to you.
help!! I my xt4 shooting/is menu does not show a on/off only continues or shooting only any suggestions.
great video as always
Wonderful tech the ol' IBIS and (excuse the pun) doubly so with OIS., been delighted with my xs10 and any supported lens from still to vid.
I hope we get ibis on the xPro 4/x100VI
Beware of large camera movements such as at sea on a boat. Ibis can only compensate for handshakes (from an Olympus user😉).
Great vid, as usual! i have a couple questions: if doing long exposures on a tri-pod do you turn IBIS off and the lens OIS off?. Also during hand held shooting do you need to turn on lens OIS if you have IBIS on?
Question: How to control the ois on the fuji 150-600mm on a non ibis body such as the XT20?
Need to know which polariser to use reduce the sun's exposure using xt200 with a 35mm lens?
What about electronic Ibis for landscape, do you recommend?
Hello, I love your video but I'm having trouble with my Fujifilm X-a5.
I really want to shoot a video where the camera is still and the subject is moving, however I'm having trouble getting the correct setting for this. My videos always come out wobbly or some weird slowmo.
Would you be able to explain to me what setting I can use so this works for me?
Big thanks in advance😊
I was expecting you explain some other drawbacks such as distortion on the frames
Woodford Reserve!!! Any thoughts on the X-H2s?
If I have IBIS on XT5 and the 18-55 lens with OIS. Does the IBIS get turned off when I turn on OIS on the lens, and vice versa?
PS... I also notice some IBS settings are greyed out when I have the lens OIS turned on
hi i just buy xt4 , is normal your xt4 getting warm and have a little sound noise from the body?
Quick question! The IBIS on the camera is always on? cause I can only activate IS when I set it ON on my lens
Would turning on IBIS on both the body and the lens give better overall results or would cause more problems?
Hi Chris, would you (or someone) please explain the various settings of IBIS? I have 4 options (X-S10) and don't really understand the difference
1) continuous + motion
2) continuous
3) shooting + motion
4) shooting only
Thanks a lot for your videos and the energy you invest into the channel!
@@tomdavistomdavis6306 What about panning though? I have never thougth of it that way, but maybe it makes sense. I did notice the strange toggling in the videos. I will have to check various settings and make sure to get the best out of IBIS/OIS when making videos as well.
@@bhamerlik The shutter speed is automatically increased when the camera detects movement, but I haven't tried it while panning.
(This function is not available on pal2tech's X-T4, which is why he does not know about it).
Hi Chris, as far as I know, you need to disengage the IBIS, if you mount your camera on a Gimbal, don’t you ?
Is it better to use the "Continuous" or "Shooting" setting with IBIS? I've heard arguments both ways.
Great, now I want a system in my camera that can actually freeze all the people around me - wouldn't that be awesome? Seriously though, very good point, it's one of those seemingly obvious things that are deceptively easy to overlook.
I mainly shoot landscape, should I turn off the IBIS and OIS when using a tripod, or is it enough to just turn off the OIS?
Could you create a video about IBIS specifically in video, not photography? - especially with things like wide lenses, it seems this is Fuji's achilles heel, you're much better off turning it off with anything below 14mm really, or you get horrible wobbly/warpy corners, even in static shots.
Great video as always! Thank you so much. I learn alot from you. I have a question about IBIS and OIS.. Why is it that the photo is blurry when I take a picture on a tripod if OIS and IBIS is turned on? (xt4 and 18-55) thanks again. 😊
You should turn stabilization off on a tripod! It might interfere with the tripod perhaps.
@@BTMovieSecondChannel thanks! At first I thought my camera or lens was broken.
@@migzrod No problem man! The 18-55 is a great zoom lens by the way.
My fuji to go master =)
I’ve read that IBIS should be turned off when shooting on a tripod. What is your take on that?
How about shooting from moving vehicles? Thanks 🙏
Ramp to 88 mph.
I shoot on a tripod, so IBIS isn’t necessary, but I’ve heard that it can be a negative to use when utilizing a tripod… is this true?
try Sony ibis build in!
Thanks for the super clear explanation. Just one doubt i would greatly appreciate clarified.
Would the end result from an IBIS supported body (like the XT4 or XS10) with an IBIS enabled lens be better than that from a body (like the XT3)? Or is it enough for only an IBIS enabled lens to give similar results?
The reason i am asking this is I am looking to buy the XT3 but, superior, as it is, it still does not have IBIS that the XS10 has. I am going to be using it mostly for photography and not much video but am still keen to get good results in low light.
Thanks!
Not sure about Fuji, however in some Canon cameras like my R6, if you do not attach a lens with built-in IS, the IBIS can compensate up to 5 EV. My RF 24-105 F4 lens has an IS system that can compensate up to 5EV when you attach it to a body that does not have IBIS. Now if you put both together, the R6 and the 24-105 will yield a total compensation of 8EV (This is of course as per CIPA ratings provided by Canon). So for some gear, yes having an IBIS body and an IS lens will yield better compensation. Furthermore, most lenses IS systems will compensate for shakes on 2 axis, and most IBIS systems will compensate on 4-5 axis. Not sure about Fuji, but I think it should function the same.
Stabilizing my XT3 was a challenge. I’d punch the air for deciding against the a7III. But I got right down to work, and eventually became a Jedi. Now I don’t even touch the camera, I move it with my mind.
No xh2 yet?
Gracias por el vídeo, solo una cosa podrías activar los suptitulos en español gracias.
Gracias por la gran sugerencia. Ahora estoy trabajando con una empresa para pagarles por traducir. Es mucho trabajo, así que tengo que encontrar una empresa que pueda hacer esto por mí regularmente. El español es mi primera opción para agregar como idioma adicional a la traducción.
you realize that the setting for IBIS continuous setting is only for shooting video, your not suppose to use continuous for shooting stills in fact that can introduce a fuzzy picture because the ibis on continuous is well continuously moving to what your movement.. So just to let you know that continuous setting is ONLY for VIDEO NOT for Still Pictures..
so for pictures you set it to shooting only.
Many people use IBIS and also lens stabilization incorrectly and cause more problems..
I have a 70*300 on my x-t4 and the lens doesnt have an OIS switch. I have realised that when panning to shoot moving subjects my IBIS/OIS ınterferes with my shots. Also in movie mode you can see clear LEAPING effect caused by IBIS/OIS. How do you overcome this issue?
You can't really. The best you can do is try to pan slow enough that it doesn't leap 🐌 🐌 🐌 🐌
Or try to pan at a consistent speed so it only jerks at the start and end..
But if you're following a subject you just have to deal with however they move.
I shoot weddings so the panning thing has been an issue for me (following all the bridal party as they walk the aisle)
The best advice I have is, if you neeeeed it to be smooth smooth. Use a gimbal (with ibis off)
@@IndecisionTelevision Thank you.
Chris, turning IBIS on on my X-t4 gives me 2 options: shooting only or continuous. What's their difference? Marc (Belgium).
Obviously battery consumption, but I could easily see someone shooting video wondering about the setting.
@@sclogse1 For stills I assume it may give you a slightly better margin of stops. But that isn't easy to test.
I don't have IBIS, but I'll watch the video anyway. 😀
🙏 it does have LEGOs, so that's something... 👍
I don’t have it either, but I watched it just as well. Actually it’s useful information regardless, some of my lenses do have it.
@@JackieDElia Yes, the OIS in the Fujinon xf lenses is amazing. The first time I tried it on my xf 18-135mm I just couldn't believe how effective the OIS was. Even at 135mm I could still produce sharp photographs at 1/100s handheld.
💪💪
Question - regarding IBIS and TRIPOD. So there's a belief that you should remember to turn IBIS off when camera is totally still, like on a tripod. Because IBIS might actually try to counteract something when there's nothing to counteract. Has anybody tested this? True or doesn't matter?
Of course - it's not a problem to turn IBIS off, but as I usually have it on by default, sometimes I might forget to turn it off when placing on tripod. / GFX 50s II.
Good question, I'm also interested in what people think about this. Personally I've tried slow speeds on a tripod with IBIS both on and off, and have never detected any difference
👍👍🏆📷
Chris,
Note IBIS will cause blur if you have it on while the camera is mounted (tripod) and subject to longer exposures like astrophotography.
Supposedly, Fuji cameras can "tell" if they are on a tripod.
@@lesberkley3821 good to know.
when talking about ibis/ios you must talk about shutter shock…
Do you have IBIS on your XT-4 set for continuous or shooting only?
continuous
@@pal2tech why not shoot only ?
"Shooting only"!
@@marccabuy926 Often, for video, I need to see it continuously changing focus ahead of time. also, for when I'm testing lenses. I'm worst person to ask, LOL, as I'm not your normal use case! 😲
@@pal2tech thank you Chris. For stills I currently use it in 'shooting only '. If it is in continuous with a telephoto prime thé image in the EVF and on the LCD is also stabilized. And perhaps you gain a bit in stabilisation. But that latter is an assumption.
and for me ... IBIS is a lifesaver with my shaky hands with or without coffee LOL
2:17 - Look, I just flipped the switch (flipped, flipped)
I don't know nobody else that's doin' this
Bodies start to drop, ayy, hit the floor
Now they wanna know me since I hit the top
The IBIS on an XT4 will actually do a lot better than that. I am elderly and dont need coffee to make my hands shake and recntly was taking some ICM photos at 1 sec with my 16-55 lens (No IS) on my XT4 admittadly at 19mm and wanted a reference shot of the scene and took it at the 1 sec It was a forrestry situation and the shot was perfectly sharp including leaves on trees.
2022 and my IBIS in XT4 is absolute shit for video, unusable. Bad enough to think of returning this camera... THe shit drifting ALL THE DAMN TIME, it is crazy how they even realeased the product that functions that bad.
The Fuji master I thank you….BUT Chris….I so miss your old intro and music! You almost dropping the camera…..please return the old intros! Hahah
I'll put them back from time to time for sure. Just not w/ every single video. I kinda want it to be special. 👍
@@pal2tech and it is special :) thanks
I thought you are going to say something else I didn't know 🤪
Can I have IBIS on and OIS on lens on at the same time?
You can ONLY have them on at the same time
This is why I shoot olympus doing 6 second shutter.
I'm xt3 users 😭
Shame the xt4 ibis is terrible for video, very disappointed when i got mine but i’m sticking with it
Is it really? was about to get the xt4 soon for video and photo, is the ibis on it really no good?
@@joefratt yeah, it’s jittery, has warping in the corners that looks like digital IS even when all that is turned off. was very disappointed. It’s great for photos but terrible for video especially smooth tracking shots.
@@samprstn Could it be the lens you’re using? I know different ones have different results
@@joefratt nope, i’m using the fuji 16-55 2.8 without OIS so the ibis is the only stabilisation factor and looks terrible, looks just as bad with an ois lens too when i tried
What annoys me about Fuji is that in the past they've said they could not put IBIS on their cameras as it would loose image quality. That was some major BS as we now see most new cameras with IBIS on their line-up. X-T3 should have come with IBIS! And worse of all, is that Fuji IBIS is not that great. Like you I can manage 1/10-1/15 shot on my X-T4, but my cheap bottom of the range E-M10 mkII from Olympus managed 1sec and sometimes 2!
Maybe you were using a wider lens.
@@sclogse1 I was obviously not
MFTs have excellent IBIS, but the sensor is also much smaller. I agree that Fuji seems to have a jerky looking IS. I had Panasonic G9, and I think it too had an excellent IBIS, but finally, the look, feel, and colors of Fuji had me switch to XT3. I like the camera, but now and then, I miss the G9 IS. 🙂
Not sure but the camera lensflange distance to a sensor corner is probably introducing limitations in available space to compensate for handheld movement.
@@marccabuy926 Fuji X is 18mm, same for Sony and it's a bigger sensor, Nikon Z is 16mm, so there's no excuse really...
IBIS keeps the scene sharp while the turtle zooms across the frame. 🐢 💨
1/15 shutter speed? Dang you have to be dead or something. I could never do that 😶
I think that people who spend nearly 2000 € on a camera like this should already have had this basic knowledge.
Such a happy man