Just wanted to say thanks for the video, was very helpful. Got mine today and it was 1.5 degrees off when flipped. Five pieces of electrical tape behind the screws of the bottom plate and now it is .2 degrees off. May play with it more later. Thanks again!
I used your method, but used soda can aluminum cut to 1/8'' strips. You can leave the screws in place. Just loosen them up and slip in another until the cleaver angle matches after rotation.
The tape works perfectly fine I'm sure, so I'm certainly not knocking it as a viable solution to this problem. I placed a thin washer on the screw between the plate and the jig and just filed the thickness down a little bit till it matched the angle on the other side. My thought was that the tape does have some malleability to it and could compress over time and possibly throw the angle off again. Well, then it got me wondering why I was taking the time to shim that plate in the first place and having to fumble with little washers anytime I took it apart. So I simply mounted the plate without the other one, clamped it squarely and securely in my bench vice and simply bent it ever so slightly in the direction it needed to go, using the jig itself as a handle to do so. This is a much more permanent solution I think, but could potentially ruin the entire thing if a few things aren't considered while doing it. For one, the metal the screws thread into is very weak and soft compared to the plate or even the screws for that matter. This is something to consider when shimming as well because on mine the screws used could have been longer and thus catching and grabbing more of the threads in the hole. Adding a shim lessens the amount of thread slightly further exacerbating the risk of stripping. If bending the plate slightly the way I did, this risk of stripping the screws right out of the hole is even higher. So I went to the hardware store and found some slightly longer screws to hold the plates to the jig, this is better for the longevity of the jig anyways. But, the holes do actually go all the way through to the other side, and since I was bending it without the other plate on there anyways, I went a step further by also buying a couple extra screws long enough to run all the way through and be able to place a washer and nut on the other side to ensure the screws cannot strip out the threads because even though the bend I needed to make was very slight and barely noticeable, the plate is very hard steel and does require a bit of brute force to get it to bend. When cutting the threads they don't actually go all the way even though the holes do, so I did use a thread chaser and just completed the cut, but as soft as that metal is a good stainless screw very carefully used with some oil and patience can serve as a chaser and complete that thread I'm sure. Anyways, I secured the plate, and carefully tweaked it a tiny bit. I had to keep taking the time to unscrew it all, mount the plates as you would while using the sharpener, check the angles on both sides, then adjust accordingly if necessary. It was a process as I didn't want to go too far or break something, so it took a couple or 3 little tweaks before it was a perfect match on both sides. Now no more shims, angles both match and I shouldn't have to worry about it ever again. If anyone seeing this decides to give it a shot, just heed this one warning above all....when I say I only "slightly" tweak that plate, I mean that in its fullest sense. A c-hair at a time is all that's needed. A very minute, virtually unnoticeable adjustment was all it took to get things where they need to be. Also, always reassemble and properly gauge the difference between the 2 sides, only judging the difference between the new reading and the starting angle reading on the plate being adjusted will not be the same as the angle it reads when fully assembled with the other plate in place, and more importantly, the 3 screws that provide the actual clamping action when holding a blade. I get that it seems a bit overboard for a couple degrees on a cheap sharpening jig, and it is, you'll get no argument from me where that's concerned. But, if you're going to take the time to make an adjustment to match on both plates in the first place, you may as well do it right and do the best job you can. Besides, it's good practice for when you might encounter a similar issue requiring a similar approach, where precision matters more and much more expensive mistakes could occur. Anyways, I just want to reiterate that I am not at all knocking the tape, or any other shim approach as they certainly achieve the same result with much less effort. I would suggest the slightly longer screws in either case, and even if no corrections are being made at all for that matter. Could mean the difference between a stripped out hole, or having a good solid grip that will last the lifetime of the kit. If anyone has any questions at all, drop a reply to my comment and I'll do my best to clarify any possible confusion. Or, if anyone has reason to think my solution isn't a good one, I'd like to hear about that too in case there's something I haven't thought through quite enough. Either way, the price of this kit was certainly right compared with the higher end ones like it, and with a little foresight and minor tweaks, it really was worth every penny and the time it took to make it a bit better. I will probably buy a better set of stones, but I am pretty impressed with the results even with the less than stellar stones that came with it. I've always been the absolute worst at sharpening knives on a whetstone. Most times they're almost worse than when I started and I've ruined more than one knife for sure. This kit makes it so much easier to get a nice sharp knife every time, I own many knives for many purposes and am glad to have finally found a way to keep them razor sharp without risking a drawer full of fancy butter knives😂
thank you so much for the video..before this my angle almost 2 degree off..but after apply your method now my angle 15.2 and 15.5..only 0.3 off very close..maybe i want to adjust more next time..thanks for your idea..
Hi, this ruixin is a copy of ruixin from official ruixin store. BEFORE YOU START doing things from this video, Try to calibrate both parts as follows: tighten the screws of the bottom sheet metal firmly, and loosen the screws of the top sheet metal slightly.
Both of your videos on this topic are excellent and a great hack for this problem!! I think I have a little refinement to do but I'm within a degree on each side. Follow-on question: After I set the blade angle, I get a consistent reading on the protractor from the heel to the middle of the blade but then when I go towards the tip the angle increases by 2-3 degrees. I have the knife centered in the holder and I have even played around with angling the blade (i.e. not parallel with the holder's edge). I was wondering if you had a hack for that problem too? Again great job on these videos. It saved me a bunch of time!
Buenas tardes , tengo un problema y no sé si a vosotros os pasa lo mismo , por un lado me mide un ángulo y por el otro mide otro distinto, se va bastante digamos que lo pongo a 17.50 y por el otro ma marca 10.50 . Todo esto poniendo el angulometro en la pletina arriba de dónde va la piedra. Muchas gracias de antemano y saludos.
ok so my first one just came in the same in the video fixed the angle with help of a 3d printer to get exact spacers well I go to pull to rotate it and the back hub cap that holds the main knife holding section to the spring launches off due to a stripped screw and breaks a screen keep in mind i never touched the thing on the back or forced it
Really appreciate you doing this. I'm considering investing in this knife sharpener for my kitchen knives. Would you say you 100% recommend this sharpener?
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, was very helpful. Got mine today and it was 1.5 degrees off when flipped. Five pieces of electrical tape behind the screws of the bottom plate and now it is .2 degrees off. May play with it more later. Thanks again!
I used your method, but used soda can aluminum cut to 1/8'' strips. You can leave the screws in place. Just loosen them up and slip in another until the cleaver angle matches after rotation.
The tape works perfectly fine I'm sure, so I'm certainly not knocking it as a viable solution to this problem. I placed a thin washer on the screw between the plate and the jig and just filed the thickness down a little bit till it matched the angle on the other side. My thought was that the tape does have some malleability to it and could compress over time and possibly throw the angle off again. Well, then it got me wondering why I was taking the time to shim that plate in the first place and having to fumble with little washers anytime I took it apart. So I simply mounted the plate without the other one, clamped it squarely and securely in my bench vice and simply bent it ever so slightly in the direction it needed to go, using the jig itself as a handle to do so. This is a much more permanent solution I think, but could potentially ruin the entire thing if a few things aren't considered while doing it. For one, the metal the screws thread into is very weak and soft compared to the plate or even the screws for that matter. This is something to consider when shimming as well because on mine the screws used could have been longer and thus catching and grabbing more of the threads in the hole. Adding a shim lessens the amount of thread slightly further exacerbating the risk of stripping. If bending the plate slightly the way I did, this risk of stripping the screws right out of the hole is even higher. So I went to the hardware store and found some slightly longer screws to hold the plates to the jig, this is better for the longevity of the jig anyways. But, the holes do actually go all the way through to the other side, and since I was bending it without the other plate on there anyways, I went a step further by also buying a couple extra screws long enough to run all the way through and be able to place a washer and nut on the other side to ensure the screws cannot strip out the threads because even though the bend I needed to make was very slight and barely noticeable, the plate is very hard steel and does require a bit of brute force to get it to bend. When cutting the threads they don't actually go all the way even though the holes do, so I did use a thread chaser and just completed the cut, but as soft as that metal is a good stainless screw very carefully used with some oil and patience can serve as a chaser and complete that thread I'm sure. Anyways, I secured the plate, and carefully tweaked it a tiny bit. I had to keep taking the time to unscrew it all, mount the plates as you would while using the sharpener, check the angles on both sides, then adjust accordingly if necessary. It was a process as I didn't want to go too far or break something, so it took a couple or 3 little tweaks before it was a perfect match on both sides. Now no more shims, angles both match and I shouldn't have to worry about it ever again. If anyone seeing this decides to give it a shot, just heed this one warning above all....when I say I only "slightly" tweak that plate, I mean that in its fullest sense. A c-hair at a time is all that's needed. A very minute, virtually unnoticeable adjustment was all it took to get things where they need to be. Also, always reassemble and properly gauge the difference between the 2 sides, only judging the difference between the new reading and the starting angle reading on the plate being adjusted will not be the same as the angle it reads when fully assembled with the other plate in place, and more importantly, the 3 screws that provide the actual clamping action when holding a blade. I get that it seems a bit overboard for a couple degrees on a cheap sharpening jig, and it is, you'll get no argument from me where that's concerned. But, if you're going to take the time to make an adjustment to match on both plates in the first place, you may as well do it right and do the best job you can. Besides, it's good practice for when you might encounter a similar issue requiring a similar approach, where precision matters more and much more expensive mistakes could occur. Anyways, I just want to reiterate that I am not at all knocking the tape, or any other shim approach as they certainly achieve the same result with much less effort. I would suggest the slightly longer screws in either case, and even if no corrections are being made at all for that matter. Could mean the difference between a stripped out hole, or having a good solid grip that will last the lifetime of the kit. If anyone has any questions at all, drop a reply to my comment and I'll do my best to clarify any possible confusion. Or, if anyone has reason to think my solution isn't a good one, I'd like to hear about that too in case there's something I haven't thought through quite enough. Either way, the price of this kit was certainly right compared with the higher end ones like it, and with a little foresight and minor tweaks, it really was worth every penny and the time it took to make it a bit better. I will probably buy a better set of stones, but I am pretty impressed with the results even with the less than stellar stones that came with it. I've always been the absolute worst at sharpening knives on a whetstone. Most times they're almost worse than when I started and I've ruined more than one knife for sure. This kit makes it so much easier to get a nice sharp knife every time, I own many knives for many purposes and am glad to have finally found a way to keep them razor sharp without risking a drawer full of fancy butter knives😂
Hi. Thank you for this way, I will definitely do it. Before your method, I put a plastic card strips. But it is extremely inconvenient every time👍🤝
thank you so much for the video..before this my angle almost 2 degree off..but after apply your method now my angle 15.2 and 15.5..only 0.3 off very close..maybe i want to adjust more next time..thanks for your idea..
Hi, this ruixin is a copy of ruixin from official ruixin store. BEFORE YOU START doing things from this video, Try to calibrate both parts as follows: tighten the screws of the bottom sheet metal firmly, and loosen the screws of the top sheet metal slightly.
have you tried aluminum shims from a beer can instead of electrical tape? To me, the aluminum would not wear or age as fast as electrical tape.
Thanks for this, one layer of electrical tape got me from 1.5° off to 0.1°
Thanks a lot, I was pulling my haïr off with this sharpener...
Muchas gracias!!!
I just got my Ruxin Pro RX-008. Mine appears to be off 3 degrees. When I put a blade in it measures 12 degrees. Two questions.
Thanks so much for info I try it.. And it work well
Both of your videos on this topic are excellent and a great hack for this problem!! I think I have a little refinement to do but I'm within a degree on each side. Follow-on question: After I set the blade angle, I get a consistent reading on the protractor from the heel to the middle of the blade but then when I go towards the tip the angle increases by 2-3 degrees. I have the knife centered in the holder and I have even played around with angling the blade (i.e. not parallel with the holder's edge). I was wondering if you had a hack for that problem too? Again great job on these videos. It saved me a bunch of time!
The only angle that matters is the angle between the sharpening stone and the knife! The angle between the clamp holder and the bench is not relevant.
Buenas tardes , tengo un problema y no sé si a vosotros os pasa lo mismo , por un lado me mide un ángulo y por el otro mide otro distinto, se va bastante digamos que lo pongo a 17.50 y por el otro ma marca 10.50 . Todo esto poniendo el angulometro en la pletina arriba de dónde va la piedra. Muchas gracias de antemano y saludos.
ok so my first one just came in the same in the video fixed the angle with help of a 3d printer to get exact spacers well I go to pull to rotate it and the back hub cap that holds the main knife holding section to the spring launches off due to a stripped screw and breaks a screen keep in mind i never touched the thing on the back or forced it
Thank you.
I've found that when I flip my clamp over, the angle changes, and I'm not quite sure why that's happening.
Really appreciate you doing this. I'm considering investing in this knife sharpener for my kitchen knives. Would you say you 100% recommend this sharpener?
aluminum foil would be a better choice for shim material