WHY YOU NEED A RELAY AND HOW TO INSTALL A RELAY
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2022
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HERE IS WHY YOU NEED A RELAY AND HOW TO INSTALL THEM IN A FEW EASY STEPS. ↘️Use Discount Code "JACOBVIRAL" at www.down4soundshop.com/?afmc=...
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THIS IS THE TYPE OF STUFF THAT MAKES ME HAPPY IN THIS WORLD, PEOPLE DOING THINKS. THINKS THAT MAKES PEOPLE HAPPY. GOOD JOB.
I literally just got these in the mail and was researching yesterday how to wire them. Thank you so much for this.
Glad to help 👍
About time someone did this to the scale you did. I learned by trial and error.
There wasn't a utube around when I learned, trial and error gets expensive. First amp I destroyed was a precision power promos 25. Not a cheap lesson lol
He's completely wrong
Good job Jay 👏 👍 👌 🙌
ima have to do this to mine when I get my jp amps thanks Jacob
I really like how you explain as you go. It helps a lot. Thanks
Glad to help 👍 Thanks for watching my daily videos
I would go around the head unit remote wire with an audio control device, but those relays are more budget friendly, I would have not thought about this myself, thanks for instructional video.
130 MA to trigger a relay typically. Eight amplifiers Daisychained remote wires without relay 48milleamps…less than half the draw
I've tried telling so many people this but they don't listen. I still use a relay anyways because a lot of accessories (plus 8 amps). But for someone using 4 amps, no relay needed whatso ever.
I learned this from barevids.. you can actually hook up a lot of amplifiers without a relay
@@josegiraldez6230 yup it's true. Using a relay Is a common misconception in car audio. People will scream you need one but you don't, especially if you are just using a few amps and a fan/leds like most people
@@OrionHCCC26i purchased a metra relay for my DSP because it called for one.. and now it is sitting in my toolbox not being used after I watched barevids.. LOL 🤣🤣.. At first i was confused because my DSP calls for a relay , but when I called the company they said as long as you use the head unit remote wire then I don't need it....i guess maybe The DSP remote wire is really really weak if you're hooking up multiple amplifiers with it... Hmmm i don't know.. maybe it will make a pop, maybe it will blow, because it's super weak...I don't know... but what i do know is they said I didn't need a relay if utilizing the head unit remote..once again exactly what barevids was saying.. ✌️✌️✌️
@@OrionHCCC26 incorrect, you can connect as much as 16 amps on one remote wire
Everyone watching this. You most certainly 100% do not need to use relays. Amplifiers only need milli amps to switch on. Barevids ran 8 amps all together from one source and they all together drew 43 milli amps. A normal head unit remote is one Amp out. So you could run 16 amps together with no issue. And the relay itself draws more than all those amps together.
Relays shouldn't be used for running amps. It's been proven, it would take roughly 16 amps to equal the power consumption of one relay. Especially those larger 12v 30-40 amp relays. Those require about 160ma to switch on. 8 amps require roughly 50ma.
Now if you're also running fans that exceed the remote power load of the stereo or ignition power, then of course the use of the relay is advised. But not needed for the amps alone.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but IIRC Barevids tested this and concluded that you ONLY need a relay if you are running high current draw fans. Just for amplifier remotes you do not need one as they draw only a couple dozen milliamps each.
Yes, barevids concluded that you can hook up a lot of amplifiers without a relay.. but it won't hurt either way, I'm sure it could help smoothen up any kind of amplifier turn on pops, if you did have that problem..
Yep
This does not make sense as the whole idea of a 12 volt trigger is to run a very small amount of current, around 5mA, to "trigger" the circuit to power on.
Sounds more like you are overloading the circuit by not having enough power to properly turn on the amplifiers after the circuit is triggered. This could damage the amplifier and other related equipment.
Thank you bro so far you’ve taught me about subsonic,lpf, how to run second battery, matching voltage from head unit to amp. All within about almost 2 year span! You’re the man brotha
Basically you wired up my current system 😂
Glad to help man 🔊👀👍
great video!
Thanks!
Couple points of contention. I’ve been told many times this exact same thing, but the math doesn’t support the claim. Turn-on transistors in an amplifiers circuit are all basically the same (whether surface mount or hole) regardless of the amplifier; it’s a teeny tiny electric switch. High powered amplifiers do not use more amperage to turn the amp on than a low powered amplifier, this is a misconception. The circuit is opened with an absolute minimal draw. All it does is turn on the circuit which has nothing to do with the current draw for the amp. It does not matter whether you have a 50 watt or 50,000 watt amp the remote turn-on draw is extremely low and probably within a few milliamps of each other. On average, most head units remote output is about 1 Amp. Even if it’s half that (like 500milliamps), the amp is only going to require, maybe 50 milliamps to 100 milliamps to close the switch and open the circuit, turning on the amp. The math tells me that you could turn on 10 amplifiers without using a relay and you would not strain the head units remote output (it would actually be less for all amps in a 10 amp set-up combined than the relay requires on its own). I advise that you run a 16 AWG with a fuse that is rated for the maximum of the remote amperage output as specified by the HU manufacturer. if you are running a long run, then use a simple single to multi wire distribution block, or daisy chain them all, good to go. The relay actually takes close to 450 to 500 milliamps just to flip the coil inside the relay, much more of a draw than 8+ amplifiers daisy chained from the HU. Additionally, the protection circuits you are talking about run off and are respondent to the amplifiers current draw from the battery, not the remote turn on switch. Once the amp is on, it is on, unless the current draw from the battery is way to low which is a completely different issue. I’m all ears if someone can tell me otherwise (mathematically) .
im just using a regular automotive switch rated to 10a. I actually had problems with this on a old high power class a-b amp. Got rid of the amp because i didnt understand that the remote didnt get enough voltage on full blast, so the amp just turned on and off and went into protect.
Damn, son; you have a rat's nest of wires going on with that project you got there! 😆
As long as you know what's what, that's all that matters. Congratulations on your growing channel. I enjoy watching your videos.
To better explain a relay: a relay has a coil (a load) along with a set of contacts that allow electricity to pass through onto another load. That other load can be anything that consumes electricity (e.g., an amp, a lightbulb, etc). When the coil becomes energized (whether it's through a switch, or it's installed directly to the battery), it creates a magnetic field. That magnetic field causes those set of contacts to pull in, or close, and allow electricity to pass through onto the load that you would like to control.
In the world of electricity, you have loads and switches. As stated above, a load is simply anything that consumes, or requires electricity to use. A switch simply passes electricity onto a load. Look at a switch as a bridge over water. When it's closed, electricity (or vehicles in the analogy used) can pass through. But if it's open, electricity can't pass.
Inside of a relay, there is a load on one side of it, and a switch on the other side. You have to provide power to both sides (the coil and the contacts). Because, in order to provide power to your switched load, you have to provide power to the coil first.
If you look at his relay's spec sheet that he's showing you in this video, pause the video and look at the four diagrams on the bottom right - particularly the lower-left one. See the little squiggly line running between terminals 85 & 86?
That's your coil.
That symbol represents resistance, which is what a load contains. If there was no resistance and electricity was aloowed to pass through, there would be an immediate dead short.
You would pop a breaker, blow a fuse, etc.
Electricity HAS to be consumed in a resistive load.
I'm sorry; I got off track! 😆
Remember: When the coil becomes energized, only then will electricity be allowed to pass through onto the other load.
Hoped that helped at least one person.
The snakes 🐍 marred on the back 😁
Geez, it's 2022. Relays are sooo 15 years ago. Get an sPod or multi gang switch panel... basically a relay distribution box.
I bought one of those switch panels with a 15a waterproof fuse on each switch to hook to my fused 15 a relays... Then I discovered these. So stupid should have gotten this cuz it has a remote too.
Relay will help with turn on or off pop, even using a dsp
Thanks for the info 👍🏽 can you hook up more than 1 remote wire to a relay?
Yes but why would you need to hookup 2 remotes for one connection?
it take more amps to power the relay then to power 20 amp turn on my brother had 12 amps and we never put in a relay its more of a risk adding them do to voltage spikes. Use the remote to turn on amp and the relay to just power the fans and what not
Thank you for posting these videos Jacob! I am trying to figure out my amp issue at the moment, my sub was pounding good and I went in the store and came back out and now it is not as loud.. both voice coils read 2ohm so wondering if my amp is damaged…
Your welcome, hopefully nothing blew
@JacobViral2 Most likely because your car was just idling and you weren't getting your rpms high enuff for alternator to charge battery fast enuff too keep up...pretty common... Do you have extra battery or capacitor for your system
So I added a relay to my set up, but my subs still clip and they still pop when turning off my car or in idle when im in auto stop.
I wondered why I needed a relay in my car….well I had fans and lights to my remote too for my amp and box so that’s also why I’m sure
Jacob quick question where did you get that stereo case?
Explained here: czcams.com/video/XrJC9DCefDA/video.html
Easy test, use any cheap volt meter with the current draw test, and see what each amp requires. If any amp needs AMPS to turn on, you have problems other than "Current" for remote turn on. Remote turn on inputs don't require "current" or "amps" to turn on. Nearly ALL class AB, Class D and Full Bridge only need about 4ma, or roughly 0.04 amps to turn on. Most stereos have a 1-5 amp remote. 10 large stereo or mono amps is roughly 0.40 amps or less. So about 100 amplifiers is about 1.0 amp draw.
Or use a multimeter to test wires
I use a fuse tap to an ignition fuse for my bass amp remote. It's worked for 2 years now. But I'm getting ready to install a 4 channel and a Steve Meade voltmeter. I'll need 2 more turn ons. Also would I use a 40 amp fuse online with this?
Fusing is always safer but not required.
Yo ja, will the actual replay from a expedition work?
I would get a new relay and not use factory
I have a setup of a sony headunit, clarion eq, mass audio 3 way E crossover, JL 4 channel amp and RF powered Sub connected with dist.block. There is a relay connected in between my headunit and eq but its not connected properly as it doesnt turn on correctly. The eq turns off at the end after headunit and all the devices. How do i make the eq turn off with the key and let the headunit turn on/off normal with the rest of the devices?
You should connect from your factory wiring harness for equipment to shut off from the key usually.
I use those same relays, haven't replaced one yet
Good to know thanks 👍
See you tomorrow 👋👋👋
I just got installed a 10 inch sub with an amp but every time i shut off the car i get a thump noise from the woofer.. any clues of what it could be and how to fix it ?
Weird, could be a bad ground, rca issue, or turn on wire weak. Idk otherwise
I need one of those plugs with 8g on it for a external voltage regulator. Any idea where to find one with 8g?
Idk sorry
@@JacobViral2 np, I do alot of automotive work and prefer the plugs over just using little Female spade clips for stuff like you had said.
Do you think a relay is necessary if my setup only includes the aftermarket HU an EQ and the amp?
No you’ll be fine without
@@JacobViral2 ok il just chain the remote from the HU to the EQ and then from there to the amp!
Thanks for helping me out bother! 👍
Damn, I was just wondering about these. So good timing lol.👏 question, I got a 64ah headway bank, and 300a alt charging at 14.8 🤷♂️ would you leave the D3400 in and use isolator for headway bank and maybe have .4 to .6 voltage drop (to not overcharge headway past 14.4) or just run em parallel and say screw it with no isolator? Know that's kind of a deep question lol.
And I do know charging headway past 14.4 will decrease the lifespan of the bank. I'm not too worried about it. I wanna go to yinlong very soon anyways. But now I run a D3400 and XP3000 (xs power agm) and its almost 150lbs of battery in my Mercedes with air suspension and rubber band tires🤣🤦♂️
Use an isolator if your running both, they have different chemistries, my buddy made it a month before catching his headway on fire 🔥 🤙
I would have the agm for the vehicle so your system is using the whole lithium bank with isolation between
@@JacobViral2 I ordered a 500a isolator on Amazon, so thanks for the input!
Why not just use a dsp like a PRV AUDIO DSP 2.8X Car Audio Crossover and Equalizer 8 Channel?
That’s an option 👍
You need a relay if you're running fans or lights
Do I need to hook a relay to each amp ?
no just 1 for up to current amperage limit
Question , Now that you know that the relay is doing its job , do you tap into the relay with all your amps?
Correct, I use all my devices to the relay, 5 amps total
@@JacobViral2 thank you , i believe to have had this problem before , one of my amps would sometimes cut off and i never got to the issue but i always felt like it was my Remote . I’m going with a different set up now so this video is helpful thanks again .
So is it one relay in total ima have 6 amps total
So that relay going control all 4 amps?
Yes and these amps had fans in them so more current draw, worked great with no issues.
My question is, what amp relay if I'm running 3 amps ?
1 wolfram aw9k
2 wolfram 250.4s
40a would be good amzn.to/3NmVLdB ; Overkill is always safer
Bassheads number 1 rule. Go bigger then you ever dream you need. Bigger power wires, bigger alt, bigger batteries. Just go bigger
You should invest in butt connectors, plug in wire connectors, etc. Using 120 volt wire nuts is a definite no no for car audio. That's quite a mess you have there.
Fun fact- a relay takes more power than daisy chaining 16 amplifiers to a signal wire. A relay is completely unnecessary, and will actually draw more than just running the wires across to each amp.
So one relay would be good enough for multiple amplifiers.
Correct, seen some use up to like 8-10 amps
I had a relay installed for my amps and I would get a really nasty pop when I turned it off through the speakers
Gettin the Sam thing right now
You ever figure out what the issue is?
Relay take more amperage than your amps!Measure amperage of control terminal then what amperage your really takes!More wires and more complicated system but what for???
You need to watch Barevids video to understand exactly why you do NOT need a relay.... Your four 8k amps 100% pull less voltage to turn on than the actual relay itself. Daisy chain your remotes plain and simple, like we been doing since the 80's
Too quick of a video, I will have to find a diagram for what wires go where, is it one relay for all 3-4 amps? and what size fuse to use at battery? its confusing when new at it
Yep one relay will be fine and fuse rate depends on current draw? Alt amperage if the 0 gauge run usually 250-350amp, relay maybe 15-20amp
Nop....you dont need a relay
A
Relay draws more current than most car sound system,
Do your research.
incorrect info, it takes more amprage to power the relay than it does the amps, sam at bare vids did a video on this myth.
This makes no sence you don't tell us what kind of relay you keep saying 4 wires but you put a link for a 5 pin
All I wanna know is why is it in my car it keep making my radio turn off, turn off
What you saying is not accurate about remote wire
This is absolutely false, that you need a relay.
Several devices hooked yo to the remote turn you do not need a relay.
They sense voltage, and use very small currents. Usually amp turn on is rated 200 to 300ma.
Also if you do not have a bucking diode on the relay you can damage the amp turn on circuit do inductive kick from the relay coul.
If your stereo sytem.or head unit shuts down its because your system voltage is likely dropping below minimum turn on..
Don't believe me, unhook your amp turn on blue wire and measure the current draw with everything turned on.
Why not sinply used an ignition/Acc wire instead wire it from the fuse box
Bs
Already debunked by barevids
the relay sucks even more power from the headunit
Then daisy chain 4 amps
YES SIR! A MUST HAVE FOR MULTIPLE REMOTE TURN ON's!!!
To much bla bla bla not wowingbnoting
Is it just 1 relay that you'll need for any big setup or build, or do you need more then 1 sometimes. I tried looking it up on Google, but there's no information about it.
Depends, some use multiple for different equipment like dsp, led, amps, drivers, power source, switches, etc. I only ever needed 1]