1979 Puch Magnum Project Part 6 - E50 bottom end rebuild
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2013
- The Magnum came with a 2 speed ZA50 motor, I have the bearings/seals/needle bearing crank for that but I decided to go with an E50 (I will be rebuilding the ZA eventually and likely make a video). This doesn't include installing the 70cc Airsal kit as it started to get a bit long and I thought that might interest people as a stand alone video.
I followed the directions on Moped Army here -
www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Rebuild...
and also checked with the Puch Service Manual (for torque values etc) which is available here -
projectmopedmanual.info/Manual...
Bearings are from Amazon
Three 17x40x12
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004...
and one snap ring
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004...
Seals were from Treatland
www.treatland.tv/puch-e50-one...
along with the Bolt kit
www.treatland.tv/puch-E50-cas...
and the Teflon E50 Clutch Cover Gasket is from Super Mopeds
supermopeds.com/puchenginegask... - Jak na to + styl
Fantastic video! No soundtrack. No hilarious jokes. No discussion about what you had for lunch with your mate who’s gawping in the background. Just a clear concise visual guide on how to strip the E50 with the tedious bits sped. Just what I was looking for. Excellent.
I was intimidated to pull apart my E50, but your video helped alleviate that! Thanks!
The shaft seal on the ignition Side has to have a Gap from the Bearing, otherwise the bearing doesn't get enough lubricant and breaks within the first few 100 miles or so
Danke für die Ausführliche Darstellung 🤝💙
Thank you for everything! You do great explanation and rebuild videos, they're helped a lot. Don't pay attention to everyone saying you did something wrong or another. You're a great help to people who are just learning.
Thanks for the video my moped friends ,
Awesome made
Video,
Lightning, perfect
Clearness, perfect
Audio, perfect.
Keep up the great work everyone
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
The flywheel puller uses two M5-0.8mm bolts that screw into the two flywheel holes, measure the distance between them and drill clearance holes in a strip of metal (I used 1/4" by 3" aluminum, not too important so long as its thick). Then I used a 3/8" bolt and tapped/threaded a hole for that between the two M5 clearance holes.
Clutch was made the same except it uses M6-1.0mm bolts.
If you don't have a tap just put a nut under the metal bar and then use 2 wrenches to pull the clutch/flywheel.
Finally, someone has the correct tool to do the job. love the "microwave trick" of heat-up bearings, great video.
oven ;) microwave would spark like crazy XD
Smashing job :-)
I had an old puch maxi when i was 17, such a simple and reliable machine, also very forgiving as far as the timing was concerned.
.
From that simple engine i learnt basic twostroke operation :-))
I still have it. There's too much pitting for it to keep a good seal so I was planning on using it to practice crankshaft bearing pressing and alignment.
Its always good to see a ole motor bein revived
Dude you saved my life on me trying to find new seals and bearings for my E50. Ive looked for over a year for these parts and COULD NOT find them. Bad ass job on the video. How does it run!? man I hope this info fixes the issue im having with mine.
Amazing video! Kind of reminds me of Wallace and Gromit. Thank you!
Not sure if you mean originally or when I re assembled it, so here is answer to both.
Really old, probably original sealant so it came off in the parts washer without needing any scraping.
I put new sealant on at 33:44
Great how-to video, thanks.
Wonderfull what Hamradio Guys can do.... perfect work.
Best Regards from DG3IC.
VeloSoleX-Adventure-Palatinate
You can use cooling, but unless your using a liquefied gas the amount of contraction from freezing a part in a freezer isn't as much as expansion from a torch because the temperature difference isnt as great.
It still might be enough to work, and might be a good option for parts sensitive to heat - just be careful about condensation on the cold part.
Saubere Arbeit
It isn't running yet (I don't have too much time to put into it) - But with the parts used it should run pretty well.
superbe video
Thanks!
I hope I didn't screw up at 25:20 when I put my seal in. I reinstalled it the same way it was in the old motor and just spaced on the orientation I watched you install it. On mine the open part of the cup was outwards towards the bearing with the solid face of the seal facing the crank. Didn't think anything about it because the seal is keeping ATF out of the motor.
At 32 mins what's the stuff in the syringe you're putting on the seal?
thanks a lot!!! and something else,your video is perfect!!
great video! I'm about to do this for the 1st time and your video will be right beside me the whole way. Thanks for the bearing remover tool info but what was the tool you used for the 1st bearing you pulled? Kinda like a crazy wine bottle opener.
Hello! What jet size did you swap to for your idle and main? Doing the same kit+carb combo as yours! Thanks for the video btw 😄
Cannot post links in comments, but they are all in the description.
How long and on what temperature did you use the microwave for the bearings?
any chance you could give us an item list on making the flywheel and clutch pullers?
I was under the impression that the open end of the seal Faces the oil or grease you appear to put the clutch side seal open end towards the crank web?
ok,and i want to ask you another question,from where can i find a complete engine?
dam i did that 40 years ago. my first bike
Did you sell your old zylinder and head?
No sealant on the case halves?
What is the name of that tabletop press you have in 24min of the video?
Lol, the clutch spring launching itself across the room @ 15:40
poderia faser um montando um chicote elétrico ou ensinando como faser a fiacao
never mind. just saw the blurb in the video. missed it the first go round.
Did you sell your old crankshaft?
u so lucky! you have a jaegermeister ignition!
marbinchen 😂😂😂
No space between bearing and seal on ignition side?? 🤔
08:05: OMG, TAKE YOUR PHONE OUT!!! 08:15: oh.. right... :-)
Wow this videos are VERY relaxing o.o i think its called ASMR? Thanks, very nice videos!
Zdravo koje maslo koristi za u mashini i koje je najbolje za mesavinu?
Hi where do you get your spare parts? I need a gasket set, bearing set big and little ends and a new piston... can you help me? Cheers 🙂
puchshop.de
Can I pull all the bearings with the HF Bearing and Separator kit 93980? I noticed you used a 3 jaw puller also..
Thanks
+Ben Anderson The 93980 is the separator I used. The three jaw puller is just one of the ones from Harbor Freight Part 69105.
is that the same engire as in a normal puch maxi s?
+sjorsbeans Maxi S uses an E50 the same as in the video. It might be slightly different, just small things like 1 ring piston or a different cylinder - but the same engine.
www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/E50
Nice, i thought so. Do you have any plans on doing on of these engine rebuilds of an 2 - gear puch ms/mv 50? That would be awesome. I currently have one which i'd like to restore but it's hard to find the information. thnx in advance.
I made a dissassembly video for the ZA50 engine that came with the moped, but never got around to putting it back together. I'd sent the crank off to get a roller bearing installed and found this E50 while it was away.
czcams.com/video/W_Scqsz9U5k/video.html
sjorsbeans
how to rebuild Zach
Zach rebuild
starting to rebuild my e50 and your videos are great! Do you grease the bearings at all or just drop them in?
+kazz330
Hi, just use 2 stroke oil to oil the bearings before assembly.
What is the diffrense between, this motor, and the motor on a puch maxi 2 gear?
+jonas The 2 speed motors are much more complicated. This bike came with one and I did a tear down video of that, but decided to go with the simpler e50.
hey i noticed you did not use countersunk allen bolts for your clutch cover. Any reason why? or comments after having done that? I ordered the kind you used by accident and I don't want to waste time sending them back if they will work fine. thanks.
I'd have preferred the flat head that have the countersink, but the socket cap work fine - they are a small diameter than the top of the recess so they still center themselves in the clutch cover.
I may replace them, but only for aesthetics.
Try MopedArmy.
Des pièces de rechange
That press looks like it was made for the bearing job. Is it homemade?!
+Mattias Matsson It's a 1 ton arbor press from Enco, but they sell them lots of other places. I think Harbor Freight sell them.
I just bought a sears free spirit (E50) for 150 bucks in Cali, pretty cheaper considering mopeds are really popular out here. I did a compression test, none whatsoever. I know I have to do the top end but would you recommend following your rebuild of the bottom end? I want to get a 70cc kit, will I need to upgrade the crank as well? what else would you recommend in modifying to match the upgrades besides the carb/ exhaust. I just dont want something burning up on me or damaging the engine. Very well done vid btw, thanks for your advise in advance.
Because the engine doesn't run I would definitely recommend a bottom end rebuild. It's relatively inexpensive (Just some Hondabond/Yamabond plus 3 seals and 4 bearings (3 if you just have one on the main gear)).
As long as your RPM's aren't too high you can use the stock crank, you can gear the bike to prevent it from spinning fast enough to cause a problem. I went with a needle
I'm new to Mopeds so I basically used parts based on advice from www.MopedArmy.com and Benji at www.treatland.tv. Check the forums and wiki on Moped Army and they have a lot better information than anything I could give you.
Here's a place to start -
www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/E50
n1bpd Thanks, I will follow your vid to do it. What gearing did you go with? needle?, excuse my ignorance.
I did check some of the moped army stuff but people that load vids like you make it a lot easier. Technical wording to a beginner just makes it seem more difficult than it really is, but I will read up too though,
I got my 71 VW bus motor rebuilt and running with just youtube vids haha.
I think I will go with the same crank you used, I see a lot of people changing to a Rito race crank as well when they do their mods. Thanks for the advice, really helps out.
For gearing I have 16x40. It has decent take off on a stock clutch (I have a brace and some stiffer springs I'll put in eventually) maxes out at 45mph because I didn't do any case matching or porting so the max RPM is a little over 8500rpm until I do that.
Used a Mikuni VM20 and bought smaller jets but it ran too lean. I put the stock jets back and it runs much better but still need to do some carb tuning before I can give any suggestions for what to use.
The Rito is nice, I was just a little hesitant to suggest spending $135 for one if you didnt need it (especially when the bike only cost you $150). It can be a money pit.
n1bpd Are you eventually porting/ matching because there is a restriction somewhere? my intent was not to do any porting/ matching which is why I was leaning towards the Athena kit, says you can go without boring out the stock case and still get the desired power but looking at the porting/ matching vids, and its not all that hard to do, so maybe I will get to it and expand my options. I like your setup though, I think deciding the setup is the biggest dilemma. I just finished a stock honda express, will probably sell it but might kit it as well.
for these projects make sure you dont buy the engine from a puch mini maxi X30M
all gears is cut in other direction and you need to swap all internals for it to fit.
they have 1 side of block being red and use a plastic ignition cover.
prntscr.com/wipiqy
a cute little model on 14 inch wheels.
can i use this method to rebuild other 1 cylinder engines? thank you :D
Borut Korosec Not really. This is a 2 stroke single speed which are simple engines to begin with, plus on this the cases split horizontally so you dont need to use a case splitter. Other single cylinder motors will likely split horizontally usually requiring more effort to split them and if they are 4 stroke will have cam's and cam chains and perhaps even a transmission - all those make it much more complicated.
n1bpd thank you :D
WAY TO MUTCH GASCHET PASTE ALSO DO NOT CLOSE THE BEARING CHANNEL NEXT TO THE CRANC if u have no leaks other than the seals u do not even have to use a sealant on the cranck case useing to mutch sealant can cause it to leak inside the engine and cause scaring on the cylinder and piston there was no sealant when u took it apart so u dont need it this is also stated in the puch manual
Quiero ver piezas de cloche puch año 1983motorespuch piezas
what happens if i dont use this honda mass ?
you can use grey permatex gasket maker, or any similar gas & oil resistant RTV sealant. Hondabond & Yamabond are just different brands.
at 24:00 I think the seal on the primary drive is installed backwards, but then I think you corrected it later. Can you confirm this? Thanks! Great video. It helped me out a lot!
Yeah at 24 min its on wrong (and I did realize and swap it later).
But if you see and follow the org. Puch exp. drawing, I think at 24:00 You did it right. Why did You swaped it later?
So.... what are the chances I can pay you to rebuild mine? :)
20:10 uhhhh, I've always left those seals in. Have I been living a lie my whole life?
If they are going inside the cases then remove the covers/shields to allow the oil in the 2 stroke mix or ATF to get to the moving parts easily.
When used outside the crankcase (eg wheels) then you keep the covers on them.
what's the name of this thing? 2:05
It's a clutch puller, you can buy them - but I made my own with a strip of aluminum. Drill two holes to allow bolts to attach to the clutch and then a threaded hole to screw in the large center nut which pulls the clutch off the crankshaft.
Dieser e50 ist ein 1 Gang Automatik oder kein Handschaltung
Gett Make It Nur 1 Gang
24:00 Äh wrong side on...
dude you f'ed up the lip seal on the drive shaft corrected it and never made a not of it. just fixed it for the end of the video. gosh darn it arrrg.
Nice, but why are you wearing gloves
It's mainly to keep my hands clean for when I need to adjust the camera and its boom mount. Lot quicker taking off a glove than having to keep washing my hands or risk damaging the camera.