Complete Guide: B20Vtec Conversion B16a / GSR / Head and Block
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2022
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One Video for all the steps on building a B20vtec and B18a/b LsVtec, The most common power making configuration known to many. We share here the complete steps needed to achieve it and including our own way and tricks that will make it easy for you guys when attempting this. We tried to have a video that covers every step done and so this way, you wont have to research several things from different places.
Link to the ported ITR manifold in the discussion is here
Link to the B16a Pr3 cylinder head porting used on the mock-up
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Where I'm from people would never tell you or show you the correct way of going about this, that's why I like to learn from people across the water and do things on my own
That’s sad that attitude of letting u guys make mistakes and spend more cuz they did when they learned?
Similar but different here locally, they share less and claim secret when it’s basic so is it a secret or they don’t know shit? Lol
Like a known shop here build for a customer a b18c ITR on JE pistons skunk2 cams and all and made 192whp only?!
Worst is it’s 81mm but had the customer spend for resleeve so it’s a resleeved stock bore?!?
Then when it only made 192 shop owner said to run 84mm wow wait u just built it and now suggest something else?
Sadly these aren’t posted in FB cuz they “cool” lol
@@SRDmotorsports I'm just happy I stumbled across this channel.
Even when I'm fixing someone's car I always do honest work for them cause it's my reputation I have to protect, most shops don't understand this.
@@Built_it_by-alex that is so so true man! They don’t understand that reputation is built not magically claimed and “promised” that’s called elections lol
Lol bro it's not where your from its those who own hondas, but this generation of people are getting better im from the beginning era of hondas or maybe second early 2000's is when i got into them amd and nobody would help or share any information, like it was top secret, but after doing things wrong, you would figure it out, but now you have internet and youtube etc, so information is massively available 😉
This video has been way faster than any research on those damn forums, simple and direct, thankyou man you cleared me out a lots of questions, cheers to you!
Oh man! Thank you for letting me know that! I realized the idea and yes just as you said it… to avoid endless scrounging on inactive forums
“A complete guide”
Glad it helped 😎
Man in shock that u giving us all this knowledge wen people here be giving u the runner round just for u not to run faster or better than then but u giving us this crazy class knowledge about one of my favorite b20b thanks
You know it man! It’s like some say the same here locally and it’s plain n simple for me
I don’t wanna be fast and they slow no
I wanna be faster cuz they are fast :)
My goal is to be one of the best of the best
One day ftw
This is going to greatest vid of all time thank you so much 👌
Hahaha thank you man! Feel free to share in fb or IG…
I realize we all can find the info online? But always different places and so why not make a video that covers ALL the steps for all of us that don’t easily have access to
Cometic head gasket or “conversion dowel pins”
Keep it up! Was waiting for this video from you guys! 👍🏻
Oh snap sorry if it took a while man thank you!!!
I realized a b16 head is here a spare b20 block and vtec line so why not show the steps 😂
ahhh so refreshing to see improvements and tips done on a B20 VTEC or LS VTEC engine
great info on not only the steps needed to build such engines but some steps to avoid spending more like the relocation of the dowels to the intake side to accept the corresponding OEM head gaskets and not to resort to aftermarket ones👍
waiting for the next, Ralph 😉
Yes indeed “ideal” steps as we are not allowed the access to aftermarket ones locally atleast not all the time and not as wisely priced lol
Thank you awesome information and work
Super glad it helped!
A complimentary video about avoiding spun rod bearings and making more power while at it
czcams.com/video/cgwB32kQbSA/video.html
Episode 1 of a b20vtec crate engine we built with lots of guide and tricks too
czcams.com/video/E7DH0oCDFBk/video.html
Thank you for posting 😃 I have been watching all of your videos
Oh wow thanks man! Hope it helps! We are trying here hehe
@@SRDmotorsports it has definitely helped! I am now subscribed
@@cryptopapi4722 thank you Amigo!
@@SRDmotorsports if you could do basemap tuning tutorial that would be great too lol 😃
@@cryptopapi4722 actually been hard to plan such… but I’m already gathering files and clips for it actually
Even camless B series vtec heads are now $700 USD. I decided to do a rods /pistons B18b turbo in my CRV instead. 200 less cc than what I have now but much thicker sleeves.
Nice nice
Great content!!! Everyone is so secretive and I believe it’s bullshit! Thank you appreciate the free knowledge
You’re welcome man!!! I mean I can understand the secrets but man why keep “normal” info as secret? Or is it cuz that’s all they have as secret? Hahahahaha
ohhh...thats a very2x tempting offer...ill let the boys know😁
Yep! Just ideas brewing!
Well I didn’t need to spend on the Golden eagle kit .... aw well I got it all hooked up in my block lol now it’s all golden eagle setup
Oh that’s totally fine! Still baller 😂 I just figured this is helpful for some that needs to order such stuff but there isn’t a wrong way to it the GE kit + HG never ever failed too
Hell yea
Glad you found this! 😎
Galing
Thanks
This is actually all from honda tech lsv forum..now whats not mentioned is..if a b16 or b18gsr full swap has a bottom end pcv oil crankcase breather aka stock oil catch can..well on b18a/b (LS ) its on the stock non vtec head.so you need a oil catch can installed on the lsv b20v valve covers ..all my friends been cocky and not listened and blown those apart on maybe 3rd night out of racing
yep and in all my vids I always explain that crankcase breathing/evacuation that’s mostly not observed
and yep as per channel description… I am and was always a honda-tech regular especially the “all motor” forum
Maybe one day I’ll be going on that route 😂
Yep 😂🤣
Just took apart my first b16a I have head ready,need to strip down and I have b20b in my da9 that I need to rip out
Oh sweet! Now the fun begins!!
Could you do a video on all the coolant/vaccum hose routing
Will check on that and thank you for the suggestions, it gives us more ideas for future vids ftw!
Really good videos but need some about tuning
Yea maybe soon :)
paps, do you still do vtec water pipe and tap the block for the oem oil cooler when you do LSVtec?
No not really we use what the block has with
Would it not be better to run it tight to the block with another elbow to keep it dangling in the engine bay? Plus you could run the pressure switch where you could reach it underneath the car easier.
ah true yeah that could be another option indeed
Very informative video! How can I directly contact you kuya? I am planning to do LSvtec and I have b18b block. Not sure where to start as I am new to all of this. Thank you and more power!
Thanks and glad it helped a lot!
Shop page on fb the link is In the description
I have a b18b1 block and b16 pr3-2 head. Replaced the head gasket and it’s still mixing coolant and oil. Radiator hoses are soft even when engine is warm. No pressure building. Engine is not smoking out of exhaust. Drained oil and refilled with fresh oil, started it and let it run for 20 seconds. Checked oil, milky again. In only 20 seconds. I’m thinking I routed one of the coolant lines accidentally into the oil pathways. Are there any diagrams for me to look at coolant line routing?
There’s not much diagram for coolant routing g as the intake side near the vtec solenoid and manifold just comes from either the thermostat housing or plugged but even that won’t tend to mix with oil
Most likely the block is warped… meaning a section of a sleeve or bore has sunken so it is t totally flat
Checking with a flat edge even a 0.005” warp or unevenness can and will cause this at the right spot
@@SRDmotorsports thanks for the reply. I’m hoping it’s not a head gasket failure again. Or a warped block. But I’m not sure what else it could be. I’m gonna do a leakdown test tomorrow to confirm it.
When you pull down the head? Even a straight edge ruler that is aluminum or steel can be used to check block flatness btw and try to insert the thinnest feeler guage
That’s the easiest way (though crude) to check
Using pressure sending unit for oil supply to activate vtec ive heard wasn't sufficient and oil filter sandwich plate was better ?? Spun rod bearing in my c1 so debating on rather fixing it or goin b20 ?
Never ever found that issue I mean or we havnt encountered it yet
Just go b20.. you already experienced 1.8 now go b20v. Move up to h2b (which is pretty nice experience) or jump to g232b(f series bottom end with h series head and kseries pistons) w b series trans..and make it in k series to feel all then and gradually go up
Have a 98 civic hatch with b20b/gsr head. On p28 chip ECU. Was told not to hit vtec too hard because it may send into limp mode? Anyone have any information on this. Car runs really smoothly and vtec does as well.
Odd actually never heard of that
Ummm.this sounds like you bought the car from someone who bought it from someone else....either two things ..the limp mode light is probably the tuner giving the ecu shifter light when you reaching 7k-9k rpms ..or.. a bad sensor thats throws the cel when you revving hard which out of all then it could be the distributor shaft being unbalanced(cyp,ckp,tdc) which in all honesty rip it have fun with it and when the cel stays on .then flash the codes to see the problem
Can you feed the head and a turbo from that T fitting?
That’s possible with healthy oil pressure as both vtec solenoid and turbo don’t require alot of oil , most of the time the turbo even has an oil jet restrictor to limit the amount of oil
I want to build a fast b20 vtec. I currently have a b16 healthy engine. What exactly do i need as far as pistons,rods, head work etc.
I need a list if you can help me. My goal is 240hp or 250ho bit wouldnt mind at least 220hp i have a crx
Niceee a crx!! Here is a vid about a b20vtec I did that’s been running since 2017 and runs 12.5sec it might be just right for you
Full set up is discussed
czcams.com/video/hGbdklj6cSQ/video.html
You might as well go k series..
Dont go h series too much hacking up the car ...now if you was eg or ek i would say skip b20v and go h2b ..
Hey boss is it 100% crucial to run oil catch can on decent built 84.5 mm piston setup? 11.5:1 compression?
Just curious
Thanks so much
I would…on a b20vtec but if there is no space or for simplicity I would atleast replicate the vtec engine’s system like vent the back of the block? Run a pcv valve and connect to the intake manifold that’s for crankcase evacuation on part throttle and idle
Then I’d vent the VC on to the intake pipe for crankcase evacuation on anything above 70% throttle
This lets u run no catch can but still have the system working as oem
@@SRDmotorsports thank you brotha new to this information will try and get that sorted. Thank you 🙏🏼
No worries man! Enjoy your project ftw!
@@Lowlyfilm do check this out… made a video about crank case evacuation and it covers a lot more
czcams.com/video/XoEUJ5Xdd3Q/video.html
if you do the tap yourself and the plug what does the machine shop have to do?
We send it for resurfacing After, like on most builds
5:17 i dont see the oil controll orifice installed, can you clarify?
That’s a mock up block hence I faced it backwards the engine number is already jacked etc
@@SRDmotorsports thanks, im going to have to tear my b20 down again because i cant remember if i did it myself. still on the stand so its not a big deal.
Good thing it’s on the stand still that’s good u can get to it quick
Cooking steaks and building motors, what more could you ask from Guga
Maaaaan that sums up perfection 😎
can you make a video how to port cumbustion chamber
That’s too hard but can try but ALOT of secrets there that’s why the b20vtec video I did
The YCP vs 1Up piston I shared a rare moment a photo of the chambers I do
It’s why others don’t show it 😂 we show enough to help guys like you but also priority is promoting the shop ofcourse
I am currently porting the head of a D14A4 and the combustion chamber is next on the chopping block. From my understanding and research on the internet, porting the combustion chamber means unshrouding the valves to allow more air to enter easier and smoother past the valves and grinding down sharp edges to avoid hotspots forming and detonation and pre-ignition. After that you sand it down with finer sandpaper till mirror finish to make it harder for carbon deposits to form and to reflect more of the heat back into the combustion chamber, thus making the combustion more efficient. It's probably a marginal or non-noticeable gain, but hey, when you're going trough the trouble of porting, might as well go all the way trough. The tricky part is matching the cc of every combustion chamber to be the same so you have a consistent compression ratio in each cylinder and the other tricky part is to not remove too much material as you will lower your compression ratio and diminish the gains that you received from unshrouding. If you port too much you have to either:
A) Mill the head to bring the compression back, but you can only do it to a point and you have to be careful of piston to valve clearance, piston to head clearance and timing.
B) Run higher compression pistons, but that involves rebuilding the block as well.
C) Weld up the combustion chamber and port it so you have more quench area and bring back some of the compression ratio and mill the head after that.
D) Running a thinner head gasket, but you run out of options quick on this one.
I guess it goes without saying that you can do certain things together or all of the above at once to meet your goals.
Engines like the D14A4 have low compression ratio to begin with (9.2:1) so the slight loss in compression ratio from losing cc in the combustion chamber should not be a big deal, but on higher compression engines the loss in compression ratio will be bigger so keep that in mind.
Hope this was of some help.
Also @SRDmotorsportsTV, love your content dude! Keep up the great work!
@@SusedatLubo good points there and I agree… the trouble also is each head depends if the stock port is “big” or “small” for the current valve = will dictate the type of unshrouding if any or “many” or a little bit
It’s why I showed on the other video the combustion chamber I did and showed also Endyn’s chamber
Both had bigger bore so unsrhoudong was easy BUT we limited the unshrouding cuz of everything else like cam , valve size and all
Thanks for sharing this it was too long to type as you can see 😂
@@SRDmotorsports Since you know your way around cars, do you mind me asking for some advice in picking a head gasket? My stock bore is 75mm (gonna be 75.5 some day if I decide to overbore and forge the internals for boost) and I am planning on going 76mm head gasket with the idea to have a little bit more room to unshroud the valves in the combustion chamber before getting too close to the gasket. Most people on forums and all over the internet recommend to go same size as the bore or 0.5mm oversize when you get a gasket. Would it be an issue to go +1mm bigger than bore, as in will it hurt longevity of the gasket to a noticeable extent or is it just a very miniscule drop in compression?
P.S. How can one know when to NOT unshroud too much? I'm a bit puzzled on that question too. Any advice from more experienced builders is much appreciated.
@@SusedatLubo slr
Actually good question on the gasket stuff… I agree I’ve heard similar stuff on same bore or stay +0.5mm OS
Personally I don’t see an issue or if there is any? That’s an area like .5-1mm but 0.027” thick so almost nothing?
Maybe just maybe if we are talking about 1,000-1,500whp turbo engines yes it might be an issue as it might be a gap where the “combustion” can try to escape the gasket?
But then at that rate wouldn’t we be running a copper Oring too? 😂 so I don’t know
But much the same on b16 heads running p3f/p8r Headgaskets that are 84mm bore and the b16 chamber is under 81mm hmmm
On the deshrouding question… trick way
Put a valve (intake) on the chamber
Lift it as high as the cams “max lift” prolly below 12.5mm I’m sure
Pay attention to the places needed or not needed deshrouding :)
That’s one thing :)
I'm doing the B20 swap. Should I go LS transmission or go CRV 5spd?
LS tranny sounds okay
@@SRDmotorsports thank you. I want change the head too. Should I do B16 or B18? What exhaust sounds good for this swap apexi n1 or hks hi power exhaust?
@@popclutch_100 b16 and b18 typer head are both pr3 but if you mean b18c1 like GSR that’s also good
@@SRDmotorsports b18c1 head yes that's the one I was talkikg about .
both heads will do good and will make good power
Isn’t the brass t junction going to corrode? Aluminum and brass don’t mix well…..
true but never had an issue with it
Maybe it would corrode (faster) if it got damp with water then left out to dry
Bos anu feedback mo sa gsr trans on b20v
Made a video about 4.4 vs 4.7 ung gsr has similar gearing with the 4.7
Okay bos hanapin konalang ung vid .thanks hehe
10:23 👍
Well I must say at first I worried about such and Bong did say “mas publemahin mo mga bearing kung ganon”
I got shut down quick eh lmfao!
@@SRDmotorsports True, I remember a similar story about an acquaintance at a track day worrying why he's not switching over to vtec, another acquaintance mentioned "that's the least of your worries" cause when they checked, the oil was very loooooow and in bad condition and imagine running continuous laps in Subic. 🤣
@@findtherightbeat oh maaaan I remember one time in Clark… at a “Jdm” track day lol
An siR by a self proclaimed builder and tuner ran I was watching cuz u know I was young and friends with Pow/Stik we know that dude be active lol
3-4 laps in? U can literally hear rod knocking 😂🤣😂 Ofcourse pride told him to still drive it limping home?
Wont admit it cuz he “builder/tuner” but that weekends following Wednesday? He calls up Bong to buy a surplus b16 crank cuz his broke he said
To his surprise ? I was sitting next to Bong when he picked it up 7pm hahahahahahaha
But I can tell u… his cf hood was atleast polished bfor their track day
😂. Some builder…
Oh and a tuner too as claimed lol
Oh snap with ur Subic story? I suddenly remembered, see the photos on my EG hatch vid? Us friends in BRC ? Pow wasn’t in the photo as he was the photographer lol back then no cam phone just an archaic yet expensive “digicam” lool
Reminder me cuz I drove his Esi was yellow back then for a few laps in BRC no vtec so we checked and bam near empty oil hahahah lucky it didn’t spin a bearing at all we drove out and bought a gallon of oil and filled it up and still lived on
But man… I broke a cold as heck sweat back then cuz I last drove it lmao
@@SRDmotorsports But hey, my acquaintance's and your friend's engines lived to bring them home and be daily'd and race some more 👍
But as for the tuner/builder an expensive lesson because of pride. 😁 Where is this guy from? 😷🤐
would you like to move abroad po and do some mechanic work?
Nah, highly unlikely… unlike most who are anxious to work abroad for their own reasons
I have lived the first half of my life in South Africa and California and so living here is actually a choice plus more than half of my customers come from abroad already 😎
@@SRDmotorsports understandable, love your work. Am looking forward with working with you in the future sa pinas. Stay solid 💯
Thank you and glad the videos are worth watching hehehe
Okay Dracula
👍
Can I email you some questions?
Yep quicker and easier via IG and shop page both are in the description btw
@@SRDmotorsports I wish you were my next door neighbor. 😝 👍🤩😎 🚗 💨. Awesome channel amigo. 👍🕊️👏🏽
@@nandosworld6303 jajaja that would be a problem… it means by 2-3am we would still be working on random stuff at each others garage hahahahahah
@@SRDmotorsports energy drinks all day long baby. 😂 👍👍🤩🚗💨💨
@@SRDmotorsports take care my friend. God bless you and your family friends your shop and your channel. 🚗💨💨🇵🇭🇵🇭👍👍😎😎🤩🕊️💯👍🎉😎👍
🫡
Yup
Your voice 😂🤣
😂🤣😂