2014-02-01 About Radial Arm Saws - Woodworking Classroom Recording
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 05. 2014
- www.gwinnettwoodworkers.com
Ricky Alexander shows the principles of how a Radial Arm Saw works, how to properly adjust it, and how to shop for one on the used market. This is a live recording from the front-of-class monitor feed from February 1, 2014.
Recorded and presented in HD.
Follow Us:
Facebook - / gwinnettwoodworkers
Google+ - plus.google.com/u/0/108617881...
Website - www.gwinnettwoodworkers.com
Music licensed to Gwinnett Woodworkers Association by Pond5.com item #26177787 "Holiday Acoustic Guitar".
I just bought a DeWalt RAS identical to the one you have in this video for $45. Works fine. Enjoying your video and looking forward to improving it.
I love this video, very informative. I've watched it three time now.
Just brought home a 7790...I am thankful for the video.
Already have crazy ideas to build a swing blade gantry mill for logs with the saw head.
Was a machinist and tool maker, just getting into woodworking. I have 7 acres of locust. Hate to waste it all on firewood.
I just recently bought a old Delta Rockwell for $50. Still works great, I think it was made in 1950. I love it.
My father in law used a weight to retract his saw. His weight was a stack of washers on a threaded rod. This makes it very easy to adjust the weight.
Jimmie Fender
I did The Sears recall for mine and got an awesome safety sat with all the things mentioned. The new handle is for the safety "trigger".
It's great to see so many new videos on the RAS. The RAS seems to be going through a "revival" time, probably because they are cheap to buy from "terrified" users :-)
I've had mine since the mid seventies. It was the only (machine type) saw I had to do all my cutting. I used it regularly for rip cuts and never had a problem. I even used it to do 45° rips on top edges of 4" x 2"s.
The RAS like all serious power tools requires attention to safety. Used properly and with care the RAS is no more dangerous than any other power tool.
Guys, Of all the woodwork kits I have bought over the years, this is the best collection I have. Its an excellent resource for beginners as well as seasoned woodworkers.
Carol Weber This is an advertisement, not a real person. Please don't allow this kind of behaviour on our sites. It is a form of hijacking. Please ignore it.
ADVERTISEMENT!!!
Red
just got me a ras {delta model 10 deluxe radial arm saw with automatic brake}. today and the first thing i did was get on youtube and start picking up ideals on how to run one. don't get me wrong i do have experience in wood working but i figure your never to old to pick up on some good ideals.
one i did find very useful was @ 53:01 where you used a string and weight to pull the saw back .
i used your ideal on the string and pulley setup i used a water bottle and filled or emptied it to get the feel that i wanted took a little bit but once i found the sweet spot i was happy thanks for the ideals.
(((( side note )))))i used fine grain sand reason being in case there is a fire and you can't grab your fire extinguisher then sand will work in a pinch.
Great job Ricky.
If you look between the blade and the motor the arbor shaft is slotted for the slim wrench to be inserted as a backup to remove the arbor nut. No stress on arm.
Great information. Thank you!
It's nice to see the enthusiasm these guys have for the RAS of yesteryear. You can see the love in their eyes. At the risk of offending RAS enthusiasts, let me say that for me such enthusiasm although admirable is about as relevant as having a love of say the astrolabe.
The RAS was superseded years ago by the other types now available - table saw, mitre saw combined mitre bevel saw.
The worst [ and most dangerous ] thing to try with the RAS is the rip cut. There is inherent difficulty in setting up an RAS such that the blade is perfectly parallel with the fence ; and of course the longer the rip the greater the difficulty. Misalignment of blade and fence can cause spectacular mishaps with the workpiece being shot back with impressive force.
We all of us have a sentimental side, and others just love to kid themselves that they are saving money by penny-pinching. My personal values include NOT trying to save money by buying on the cheap, or using obsolete equipment.
The "negative hook" blades are basically trying to "resist" cutting, and they are deflecting and pushing the wood out of the way, instead of shearing into the wood like a sharp knife. If you look at the way the "negative" tooth contacts the wood, the entire tooth hits the wood all at once, meaning much less precise cutting, and more damage is potentially done to the wood. My feeling is that the single most important thing is actually the intermediate "anti-kickback" tooth which is called a "raker" on a chainsaw chain.
The inexpensive sawblades have a non-cutting "raker" guide tooth, which is effectively an "anti-kickback" raker. If you look at a Diablo 40T combination blade, or a 24T ripping blade, they both have a substantial intermediate "non-cutting raker" which prevents "over feeding" of the wood. The advent of modern blades with the anti-kickback rakers on them, means that is "might" not be necessary to run a negative hook blade on a radial arm saw.
The blades with intermediate rakers are automatically "self limiting" so they cannot be accelerated through the material beyond the height of the raker. The thicker the wood is, the greater the raker limits the cutting speed, which is nice, because it automatically slows down your feed rate in thicker wood. A raker is far more important than people realize, and it is likely far more important than the hook angle. A tall raker will limit the cutting speed, no matter how aggressive the cutting teeth are.
On a chainsaw, if you file down a tiny bit of height off the "non-cutting raker" then the chain will become dangerously "grabby" and it makes the saw bog down, because the chain cuts too fast, and the teeth "dig" into the wood more. On professional wood working blades, they are designed with absolutely no "non-cutting" teeth. Expensive saw blades thus have no anti-kickback protection. And because of this, if you're using a professional blade, it will be more likely to "grab" or "jump" on a radial arm saw, unless you use a negative hook angle.
As far as I can tell, a blade with conventional sharp forward angled "positive" teeth, with tall rakers in between the cutting teeth, is a better method of preventing "over feeding" because you don't lose the beautiful fine cut of the positive tooth angle, which forms a "shearing" cutter. Clearly, manufacturers are not doing enough research, and they are not willing to share their knowledge with consumers. Because I've never seen a single person mention the "non-cutting rakers" which are only found on some blades, and not others.
I am using a 40T Diablo blade on my radial arm saw, and even if you pull the blade into the wood quickly, it doesn't grab, because the blade, although having a very sharp "high-ATB" positive tooth angle, it has non-cutting rakers in between cutting teeth. The anti-kickback rakers actually form a "barrier" in between each tooth, so if you try to "shove" a piece of wood into the blade, the wood hits the raker, thereby limiting the cutting speed.
It's curious where the information about "negative hook" blades came from. My feeling is, it came about after there were many legal liabilities and the manufactures tried it as a last resort, to make the saws easier to use. But, there is a Delta Radial Arm Saw manual written in the 1960's, and if you download it online, it shows how to hand sharpen your blades, and it recommends a conventional "positive tooth angle" on their radial arm saws. This was a factory manual, published by Delta.
It would be interesting to note, when exactly the "negative tooth" specialty blade became a "necessity" on radial arm saws. I am not an expert at all, but a positive angle tooth is far inferior and wastes way more energy than a conventional blade, because it's not "slicing" into the wood. A negative angle tooth cuts with much less motor horsepower, because less surface area of the tooth is touching the wood at any given time. A negative angle tooth can produce a much finer cut, with all other variables being the same. Although, a negative angle tooth without the "anti-kickback rakers" will have the ability to cut "too fast" if the motion of the blade is not limited by the user, which could be very dangerous on a radial arm saw during crosscutting.
In summary, a positive hook blade, or a blade with non-cutting raker teeth in between carbide cutting teeth, would be the only safe blades to use on a radial arm saw. If the manufacturers weren't so worried about lawsuits, they would probably publish more information about this subject, instead of forcing consumers to "guess" and have no idea how a blade even works...
See this video at 9:00 minutes, where the owner shows his blade, and talks about blade climb. czcams.com/video/CV4uXtxnOdg/video.html
Hey Ricky. I was noticing that in your video when you are discussing heal on your blade, you held a us saw blade. My favorite blades for crosscuttung. I need another 80 tooth. Do you know where I can buy one? Thanks and great video.
Cheers. Great lesson. Just got a dewalt 125. Not set up yet.
A 5/16 Allen wrench fits into the armature shaft near the arbor nut for changing blades on the 10 inch Dewalt 1400 RAS. Probably doesn't help the armature at all, so I wait till the motor is cold, and keep equal pressure on both tools when changing out blades.
are you planning on get the safety upgrade kit for your dad's saw?makes it a heck of a lot safer. come with the handle because of the new drop down blade guard how it engages, in the picture it didnt look like it had it lkooked like the old version
For the feeding direction for a rip cut. Doesn't he have it wrong in this video (he says "the blade has to be going down through the wood")? You should use the rising edge of the blade (opposite the anti kick back pawl) NOT the falling edge of the blade as he describes. The falling edge (pawl side) should be used for cross and miter cuts only. Am I correct?
Absolutely! That direction will eject the board. People who fed it from that side had probably caused the myth that radial arm saws are more dangerous than table saws. Not true. It's like going on the back side of a table saw. It's amazing how many good would workers still are ignorant to this fact and polly parrot the more dangerous myth.
Using a radial arm saw or a table saw to rip with is kind of like handling a hand gun. Always assume that the thing is going to get you if you aren't careful. Over the years my dad (now gone) and I ripped a mile or two of 1 1/2" #2btr fir on his Craftsman radial arm saw. Care must be taken: 1) Sharp blade. 2) Blade is parallel to the fence. 3) Rotate the blade guard until it just rubs the material being ripped. 4)
Drop the anti-kickback pawls into proper position. 5) Push the wood through from the correct direction. 6) Don't over tax the saw. 7) You can tell when the wood starts to be pinched in the kerf cut, ease up, back off and drive a wedge in the kerf. Some boards pinch others don't. Just assume that all boards pinch. 8) Use a push stick. Gosh, kind of like using a table saw.
A lot of guys never learn how to use a radial arm saw because of all the fear hype. My dad never owned a table saw, he didn't have room for one; he probably didn't have enough money either. It's one thing to point out that care must be taken but to say it is foolish and too dangerous to rip wood using a radial arm saw is, well, foolish. Just one man's opinion.
Ed, you nailed it, 100%! I've used both and like your dad, settled on the RAS. I love them, they are so much easier to do so many more things with once the proper set up / tune has been completed. Core to your post is nothing more than common sense woodworking practice: Keep your tools sharp and keep 'em true. I am in the camp that is scared of sharp, spinning metal and prefers to be able to always see exactly where it is and that is one of the RAS' virtues.
Truth is I have 2 RAS, a 14" and a 12", and sold off the cabinet saw due to the fact that I could safely do pretty much everything on the RAS as I could with the TS and get a whole raft of enhancements / capabilities. In addition, a critical benefit is that the RAS takes and requires maybe 2/3 LESS usable floor space than a TS AND it I put it against a wall instead of in the center of my very small shop.
I typically leave one saw set up for crosscut action and one for ripping. Ripping with the dado set works just fine, but I do have my saws very well tuned.
SuperBardley I have a small 9" Delta 9Amp that is a very fine saw but underpowered but does fine on dry lumber up to 1-1/2", truck dried lumber is a problem. I'm looking at a Dewalt 7790 that is 17Amps ($200) and Delta 33-890 that is 14Amps ($250). Both are 12" and in very good condition, though the Delta looks to be in better condition. I am leaning towards the Delta even though it draws less amps. I'm only 5'-6" and find reaching for the elevation crank a stretch, the front crank on the Delta would be much easier for me. I have a very small shop (10' x 20') and would very much like to jettison the table saw that is hogging up about a third of it. It may turn out that I keep the 9" and set both saws against the same wall using the same fence. I would appreciate any thoughts you might have. Ed
Ed Waggoner Sr.
Well Ed, you seem to have a good "problem" in that the 790 & 33-890 are both excellent saws for many of the same reasons, and I've owned both. The differences are probably going to be:
1) The ergonomics are much better on the Delta (that's why I kept that one and got rid of the DeWalt).
2) The DeWalt seemed to run a bit more smoothly, but any roughness in the Delta seems to be related to a combo of tuning and a lightweight guard retaining ring which I can improve.
3) Supposedly, the 790 has a better depth of cut by some fraction of an inch, but that was as compared to the Delta 30C; the Delta 33-890 (RAS-12) may have been improved. For me it's not an issue as I have a 14" 40C.
4) The Delta turret arms offer more and better cutting options, particularly they can make left miters without the funny reconfiguration or jigs or aids that a DeWalt requires.
5) The DeWalts have the benefit of a wide array of available accessories, like the planer head and disc sander attachment, that can be screwed directly onto the arbor, but this is because DeWalt made their accessories semi-exclusive by using a strange threading that no one else uses. The Delta accessories aren't to be found, so one would have to utilize an adapter for those DeWalt thread-on attachments to be used -- I'm headed down this path, but I really only need the planer attachment for prepping badly twisted wood for my 13" planer. In truth, if you have a planer and/or router and table, there are pretty easy ways to accomplish the same thing. Also, CMT makes a 10" (probably 12" too) flat disk for sanding and truing exercises on any 5/8" arbor saw. Bottom line on this subject is that most shops now have other dedicated tools that do a better job than the DeWalt accessories can hope to achieve, so that narrows the accessory gap between the 2 saws.
6) The Deltas are still made and therefore, replacement parts can be had from Delta or all over the internet. The DeWalt 790 is no longer manufactured so replacement parts don't exist other than those salvaged from other 790's. There may be some parts available from Sears, as I believe they may have sold a rebadged version of the 790. This is a prime reason why I went with the Delta.
You might find further useful info RE DeWalt RAS over at the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum on Delphiforums.com. One of our members just posted that he has a 1-car garage space in which he has managed to put something like 10 RAS's, all set up on the same 2 wall mounted benches, galley style, and he has made each one dedicated for a certain task and that means he eliminated the corresponding dedicated tools! I just leave one saw set up for crosscuts and the other for rips. Also, even though I have a 12" dado stack for the 14" RAS, I will sell that stack and just do all my dado's with the 8" stack on the RAS-12 because I can't think of any time where I'll need to do 4" deep dado's.
Have fun makin' some saw dust!
-- Bradley
SuperBardley Thank you so much for a very thorough review of my options, you have made my decision much easier, Delta gets the nod. I'll most probably be selling a 1950s Delta/Rockwell 9" table saw/ 4" jointer combo. I'll miss the jointer, but used jointers can be had quite cheaply. I have a nice Dewalt thickness plainer and with a good blade I can straighten boards on the radial arm saw using the front edge of the table. With the proper blade the surface will be nearly as good as a jointer without the snipe, and can be accomplished in one pass instead of multiple passes.
I was planning on making a jig for my table saw to make raised panels. I suppose I can do this on a radial arm saw too. Just haven't figured out how yet..
Kind regards, Ed Sr.
Ed Waggoner Sr.
Yep, using the RAS for jointing is a good one IMO. Raised panels are a piece of cake. I suggest you track down a couple of books on the RAS: Wally Kunkel's Mr. Sawdust book (via Mrsawdust.com) and DiChristoforo's RAS book; they are considered essential reading over at the DeWalt RAS forum and I highly recommend them.
One key to successful use of the RAS is to follow Mr. Sawdust's suggestion and build a proper table top, cover that with a thin sacrificial surface, and use a sacrificial fence. The sacrificial stuff protects the table top and acts as zero-clearance inserts, which should be moved around or changed as needed to provide top-knotch clean cuts. Last thing: please check out the FAQ's at the RAS forum, lotsa good stuff there.
-- Bradley
You mentioned a bolt or some thing that goes into the end of the arbor to hold it while you tightened the nut . That something is an Allen wrench.
I need an opinion on radial arm saws. I have owned a small 9" Delta for a couple of years and love it. I recently purchase a Delta 12" 33-890. My 12" saw may be normal but I don't know for sure. Here's the question: my 9" Delta moves back and forth easily with just a light touch. My 12" saw doesn't move as easily, it seems heavy and slow compared to the 9" saw. Is this this normal?
Great video, especially since the DeWalt in your classroom is the same as mine in my basement, my grandfather's. I use it as is, but now I see how to adjust it properly. I also need a need table surface, so I'm open to suggestions. Thank you for such a great video!
Dan Deloge
If you want a suggestion, I'd advise you to keep your grandfather's machine for sentimental reasons, and get yourself something modern. I have some relics from my own grandfather's shop which I will never part with., but almost never use.
I was considering getting...going to sttle for my hand held circular saw. takes up way less space.
Since I also work on cars, I use camber and toe terminology on my RAS as well - translates perfectly
Where can I find the info on finding the age of a dewalt RAS? I recently picked up a 18inch 5 horse 3 phase for $50. Its in great shape
Anyone who owns a RAS should get Mr Sawdust book called How to Master the Radial Saw! First thing, make a good table. Very well described in the book. The one shown here for the MBC does not look straight or flat.
On the smaller dewalt, there is an hexagon hole at the end of the harbor. Same side as the brass nut. That's how you hold the harbor shaft while loosing the nut.
Ripping on a RAS is not about bravery. All you need is knowledge. Using powertool without knowledge is beyond bravery. Once set up and used properly, I feel safer ripping on my RAS than on table saw. Again Mr Sawdust gives all the instuctions and tricks to be sucessful and safe. This is a great introduction class about the RAS. It is a sad safe ripping was not thought properly and the myth about its dangers is passed on. If interested in ripping safely, check Brian Weekly video called Ripping on a Radial Arm Saw?
to enjoy this video more take a drink on every "ON MY SAW"
hi My name is Trent and I have a Dewalt model MBF [AMF] the serial no. is 190264
the tag on the motor says single phase capacitor motor 3/4 hp 9.8 amps can you please help me know more about this saw like when it was made and where to get parts or new key switch.?
+Trent Myers check this web site vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/imagedetail.aspx?id=1244
Nice saw ❗I have a 12" Delta the same small brother to the ones you see Home Depot uses in house. I love it , but I'd be open for a trade 😜❗ I bought an old DeWalt 16" but the end of the arm was cracked and unfortunately it went into the steel bin . Probably could've salvaged something but however it was damaged nothing else could be trusted. Great video . Radials rule and no need for a table saw. I did buy a Delta buck saw that's really interesting. Commercial all the way 👍👍😎
I challenge you to list the Safety Features of your RAS has, I am sure you're have problems coming up with any. I doubt it even has a 110V Three Prong Plug on the electrical cord, unless it was added when they rebuilt the motor. It hard to imagine why anyone would use a tool without Safety Features! Emerson Electric once told me that the RAS is the most dangerous Tool in the Shop! I've had both a Craftsman and a Delta and sold them both because of the danger involved with them. I also sold my Craftsman Table Saw that I added a Knock off Biesemeyer Fence to, which made it a great saw. However, I sold it because it didn't have any Safety features and bought a used Sawstop TS!
I love these saws , can't understand why so many people give them a Bad Rep as being unsafe.
They are far safer than a table saw. Best with a Radial is a 12" plus in a commercial grade. Some old Sears I've heard are pretty good. I have a 12" Delta. I have a full metal and wood shop and it's my favorite . I've heard some bad stories of people getting injured on a table. I had two and gave two away. 😎
I love my Radial
GWA has several people that love the RAS. The saw in the demo was mine and I wanted it as an older tool. It was great but I use my sliding miter saw for most of the cuts.
i have a dewalt 740 powershop made by black and decker manufacted in 1975 where can i find info to restore it
Smithsonian.
I received a 1962 Craftsman Radial Arm Saw for free just for doing a neighbor a favor. The saw is great but takes up a huge space in my limited garage/wood shop. I also have a Skil 3310 smaller table saw, and, a Skil 3316 Compound Miter saw. I'm not even addressing the Bosch Jig Saw and Skil circular saw. The old RAS is working just fine. No missing parts and, even extra blades. Should I keep this jewel and make more room or keep it and work around it?
I have two Craftsman Radial arm saws... Note: there was a recall, look on the net for "Sears/Craftsman Radial Arm Saw. Give them the serial Number and they send you a new blade guard (with new safety setup) a new table, yep, a new table, and some other parts. My second one I picked up at a yard sale, $30 mainly for parts (no room for two). Best thing though, the previous owner never sent in for the recall. I did, and got a second table, guard etc. which I'm holding onto for when I need a new tabletop. Note 2, he box UPS delivers is just under 80lbs of parts. Use my saw for cross cut, rip, miter, rotory plane, cut molding with molding guard from ebay, to add... drill chunk on the opposite side of blade (blade off for safety) used a disc sander, turned the motor vertical, used it as a barrel sander, with drill chuck used it to mortice with router bit (not fast but works), need an x / y sliding jig for this, What you can do with one is unlimited.. My original saw purchased in 1972
my 45 degree detent on my Craftsman RAS is actually 46 degrees, Didn't see how you reset it to be 45 is possible. Jig ok if pieces are short. Can you reverse the jig to have longer pieces protrude from frone of saw? Lately I use a small carpenter square to set 45 degree angle and lock in place. Works ok but having the detent be at 45 would be better if possible. I have no problem ripping with mine but yes the anti-kickback device is a must. RAS's actually require less space when compared to a table saw which ususlly sits in the middle of a space.
I did get the free upgrade (from Emerson) but it is over now.
+David Clink May want to check out this : www.instructables.com/id/Radial-Arm-Saw-Table-Alignment-An-Easier-Way/?ALLSTEPS
BTW they still have the recall going on. I just got my upgraded guard 3 days ago. They have like 5 or so variations in kits. Some have run out. Obviously mine hasn't (made in 1989).
+Anthony Shelton bought mine in 1973, been using it since. Got th upgrade this summer. Use it mainly for dados now.
22:56 feel the energy in that room
My sears ras is a 1980 vintage. got the upgrade and all cuts are dead on except for the 45 bevel. the left and right 45's are fine. dont know how to adjust the detent for the bevel if possible. why? I found cutting 45 for picture frames etc is more accurate if I lay piece flat and cut the bevel vs standing it on end and swinging the RAS over to cut the 45. My saw straight cut adjustment was easier than the 1972 version. upgrade kit instructions were fine but didn't talk to adjusting the bevel detents.
I 💘 those saw Actually a. Have 2
Dewalt 10" inch and. A craftsman. Too
ME ENCANTA ÉSTA MAQUINA ES BIEN VERSÁTIL,SUEÑO CON TENER UNA,PERO AQUI EN PERÚ,NO EXISTE NO IMPORTAN,LOS ADMIRO ABRAZOS DE LIMA PERÚ.GRACIAS.
Always one in every crowd
exelent video ..thanks
I bought a craftsman 10" professional with auto feed...because i build things from time to time and i don't want a big room full of all kinds of power tools, the saw takes the place of 6 other tools.... and fits in one small space in the shop....
We have several members that grew up with a RAS or started woodwork with one. They love the saw and use it daily.
VFD can convert single phase to 3 phase
You can't do dado cuts with slider miter saw
On the slide miter saw I have you can.There is a depth stop-kinda like on a drill press-that allows you to set how deep you want to cut.Look on your saw and see if it has the depth stop-usually behind the carriage-a knob.You can't use a dado head on the slider machine-you make repeat cuts with the normal blade.It does work.
A RAS should always be operated "right-handed" due to ease of visibility is for nothing else. RAS tables should be built to handle boards up to 4 feet long on the left-hand side of the blade. (new saw don't even come with this) Also, if your saw travels effortlessly on the ways, the bearings aren't adjusted properly. There should be 4-6 pounds of pressure (pull) required to move the saw.
Radials- blade parallel to table- end of story
If you have a positive blade one must push not pull on the cross cut
جيد جداً... هل يوجد شرح بالعربي
You're welcome!
When Emerson produced the RAS for Craftsman the year was the first 4 numbers following the "113." After Emerson stopped production it was back to chaos and dating a Craftsman RAS is like throwing darts.
I had a craftsman, a big hukling one... It looked like it was made in the 80's but I can't remember. I only used it for a few cuts because I just couldn't get comfortable using it. I didn't like how it would jump towards me when I was making a cut, that sensation I couldn't get over. I much prefer to move the cut away from me rather than towards. Just my personal preference.
You likely didn't have a negative rake blade on it; this alone will prevent a *lot* of climbing. You also likely tried to feed the blade into the wood too rapidly. Yes, this response is a year late, but it might help others.
Agree Jason. You have to understand these beasts, not just jump in and start cutting.
@@SwearingenTurnings yeah I've since learned that. Actually watching Frank Howarth's channel makes me want to get an old Dewalt and try again... though 13:41 sounds like he had a similar experience with the same saw I had.
@@jonq8714 I found the Freud LU91M010 to be ideal for cross cutting. With the -5deg rake it does not want to climb much and leaves a very nice cut. I don't rip on mine as I have a nice cabinet saw.
Also your slide should not be loose or easy to pull. If it is you will need to adjust the roller bearings. It should take four to six pounds of pressure. Also if you have an under powered motor this can happen much easier.
I only use a radial arm saw.
If you want to see something special, go to the PERISCPOE FILMS CZcams channel and watch episode 50674. DeWalt Saws In WW2 Promotional Film.
I was cringing when I saw him turn on the saw without his hand on the carriage. If the blade catches a piece of wood, the carriage can fly at you like a bullet and cut anything (including your arm) in half on the way.
Im thinking that you made a mistake. Please revise. Someone is going to get hurt. You NEVER rip feeding the material into the blade with blade rotating down. Only crosscuts. That would be like feeding wood into your table saw from behind. Also be sure to adjust your guard very close to the material on the feed side. This keeps the material from rising. Also, properly align your antikkick back and splitter. You should be able to rip miles of wood. And much safer since you arent standing in the line of firer like a table saw. Never had a kick back ripping. But thank you for your video. We need more in our craft
Uncle Charlie's Woodshop excellent advice. This guy was definitely feeding the stock the wrong way against the blade.
Never feed a rip in a direction that the blade wants to pull the wood into itself. If the blade were a paddle wheel it needs to lift it up and away from the table.
For old tools, manuals etc check out owwm.com
I fell asleep....slowwww going...and all the interruptions...
Threw my RAS out the back door [John Fogerty] in the 70's, bought a table saw and never looked back, did not miss that piece of Crap.
I know you don't know this, or maybe you do. But that says more about you than it does about the saw. No disrespect intended.
Sure you intended to disrespect me, after all you know everything, just keep on impressing yourself in that little shop of yours with that dinosaur. No disrespect intended.
I made it by myself. I used woodprix scripts for that.
My husband uses these plans from Woodglut and is very happy with them. However. I love yours!
Oh yeah, lets pander to the Hobby lobby because they love a good deal on a ‘classic’. There are no good deals on RAS. They are the dumbest most dangerous overrated piece of crap machine ever devised. Look how much valuable space these dogs take up !
Hobbyists always fall for the BS and love to boast about getting a ‘good deal used’. They are cheap because they are a liability. They are not accurate, they are not safe, they are not well designed and they are hated by seasoned pro’s for a reason. If your using one of these things to do what should be done on a table/panel saw, you are a bloody fool.
I have a twenty year old Makita ‘throw away’ that still runs like new. BUT I only use it to dock boards to length.
You don't know what you're talking about.
Obviously you don't know anything about RAS. When B&D bought Dewalt, they cut cost until they became a shadow of what it was. Basically stick with a Dewalt with an elevation crank at the back. People seek the old one not because they are a classic or a good deal but because they were built like tanks. That's why they are still running strong. The good ones deliver incredible accuracy and repeatability once properly set up.
Improper use of a power tool is always a liability. Operating a RAS is not difficult but you need to learn the do and don't. People don't take that time, get injured and blame the tool. Year after year, 30k+ people get injured by their table saw in USA but nobody blame the saw. Operator error. Only a fraction get injured by the RAS but they all blame the tool?!?!
The RAS is a very compact tool as it lays againt the wall. The arm can be swinged on the side to free up bench space. It is compact when you think about the space a table saw occupies in the middle of the shop. On top of that, you need to add a mitter saw on the wall. The RAS takes no more space than the mitter station.