How to Replace Your Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor - Accelerator Pedal Replacement

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OSR Garage shows How to replace the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor on your vehicle. The Accelerator Pedal is attached to most sensors but it will depend on your vehicle. We were replacing because we had a dead spot in which there was no power when pressing down the accelerator.

[@SavageAccuracy100]

Thanks so much my dude! I'm a women who likes to work on my car if I can and your video really helped! Very detailed. Thanks so much again 💕

[@offtheshelfrides]

Glad it helped!

[@antionnehenry7493]

Great video helpful with diognoses and repair thanks

[@offtheshelfrides]

Glad it helped

[@franksh2023]

Thank you for sharing!

[@offtheshelfrides]

My pleasure!

[@delhiabbas]

Thanks for sharing

[@offtheshelfrides]

I hope it helped

[@delhiabbas]

@@offtheshelfrides yet to try it out

[@TyroneMaye]

how do you test the connector to the accelerator pedal position sensor using the multimeter ? checking for 5volt reference and the ground from same ? Don't you have to go into the system to clear the EPC code which was thrown ? Or is this process for the Audi Q7 3.6L V6 engine as well ?

[@offtheshelfrides]

I didn't have a code

[@mark.r8900]

Great video. My 2007 audi a4 intermittently goes into limp mode. It intermittently only happens when I slowly accelerate from a stop. Like from a red light. When light turns green and I pressed pedal slightly that's when it goes into limp mode. Once it starts going it's ok. The throttle body under the hood looks ok. Can this pedal be my problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

[@mark.r8900]

Forgot to mention there was never a code. Thanks

[@offtheshelfrides]

I honestly couldn't tell you for sure, it is worth a try though. The pedal with sensor wasn't too expensive from Rockauto and pretty easy to replace. If it doesn't fix the issue, the next culprit is the throttle body or throttle body sensor...

[@mark.r8900]

Thanks for your reply. Yes I'll try that.

[@mark.r8900]

Thank you

[@shreks_bvbbydaddy]

Did it fix the issue ?

[@mariannehyderkhan2370]

Thank you. I have a fixed module. And, I have a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder. Parts will not be in for a week. Is it safe to drive until then? Been throwing this code this code since I got a new battery installed a month ago. This morning was the 1st symptom shown... hesitant to accelerate. I panicked. Parts will not be available for over a week. My question. Is it okay to drive until then? Thank you.

[@offtheshelfrides]

Should be fine, just annoying. There is a possibility of it going into limp mode. If it does that, you can reset it, but it will probably do it again.

[@Quantum369Mechanic]

i wish I had a bad pedal! -2013 Camry 4cyl. mine is so sensitive it's impossible to drive.

[@solid_mario3496]

Pedal controller helps with that.

[@xNiff]

My live data saya that the accelerator position is at 90% while at idle and not accelerating.. any sugestion?

[@offtheshelfrides]

That seems a bit high, you can loosen the screws to the sensor and it will rotate slightly reducing or increasing the contact points

[@Flowerchild778]

​​@@offtheshelfridesthis is good information👍Thank you

[@user-hn2qo7dl6w]

Is it possible for it not to throw codes? I have a dead spot in my pedal.. when I first press it'll take a while to get speed then once I'm going it's fine. No check engine light

[@offtheshelfrides]

Yes, I didn't have any codes

[@Flowerchild778]

I think codes will inevitably pop up eventually. Mine took a LONG while before p2138 code. I need to change mine but I clear it with a meter and take it easy until I change it. (I also accelerate using cruise control, usually)

[@4-a-595]

Hello sir did you fix it?

[@motologist1917]

can we fix the old padel , my car padel also takes little time to accelerate

[@offtheshelfrides]

So, you can try this, loosen the top screws and 1 bottom screw on the sensor, then push it back from the top of the sensor. It should move about 1/8 in. That should put it in better contact with the accelerator. You will have to remove the pedal to get to all the screws.

[@motologist1917]

@@offtheshelfrides okay but i don't get it completely ,ist of all i will open the padal cover , & then next what should i do

[@offtheshelfrides]

@Therizwanahmed remove pedal from the car, lossen(don't remove) the screws at the top of the sensor, losses 1 screw at the bottom of the sensor. Rotate the sensor backwards at the top, then retighten and reinstall the pedal

[@motologist1917]

ok thanks i will try it

[@8490JJ]

How long did this take you?

[@offtheshelfrides]

About 20 minutes

[@FumiyaSugawara]

Have this issue on my Mazda 3, but am replacing the pedal and the throttle body motor which goes in conjunction with the accelerator.

[@offtheshelfrides]

Yea, I am either going to clean my throttle body or replace it.

[@alternateimpact81]

Im surprised that your vw didn't go into limp mode with the old pedal

[@offtheshelfrides]

Yea, didn't even throw a code...

[@brentwitte1645]

2012 jeep compass 2.4l what the stap for it?

[@offtheshelfrides]

You should be able to find the parts you need at rockauto.com

[@maddog9793]

You didn't have to wipe off fault codes?

[@offtheshelfrides]

I didn't actually have any fault codes because it was just a gap in the pedal

[@FumiyaSugawara]

If he had codes, Disconnecting the battery would have erased them. Usually 😅

[@cloudstrife1125]

Most of the time when you disconnect the battery it clears the engine light. I've worked on three vehicle's in which that didn't happen but more so likely it would give you a reset and if it didn't fix the problem the light would reappear after 50 miles or so

[@Flowerchild778]

​@@cloudstrife1125Thanks for the information